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Home / Add-on / Bottoms, Garments, Pants
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
2
ADD ON Children's Berry Bubbles
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
This unlined pants pattern is perfect for spring with the option of a capri and, full-length style leg. As the pattern is an add on, you will need the Berry Bubbles Sewing Pattern in sizes XXS-5XL, newborn-12yrs or 18-inch doll to use the add on pattern.
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- +Preparation
- See the original Berry Bubble shorts pattern for notes and tips of fitting.
- The ladies version is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches.
- Please check the finished garment measurements before cutting.
- Leg width – The capri and full length pants are a very wide leg fit.
- Childs sizing – The waist and hips are in the child’s version are also quite generous given the ‘bubble’ option in the shorts.
- Ladies sizing – The waist and hips are less full than the child’s version, but the back waistband is still gathered. Some of the ladies in testing preferred the pattern as is so it was a loose but not baggy fit, others preferred to size down one size, so it was more form fitting.
- If you would like the pants version longer or shorter than the pattern lengths, add or remove length at the hem.
- Child mid-thigh & knee lengths – ¼ yard
- Child capri & full lengths – ½ yard
- Ladies capri length – ½ yard
- Ladies full length – 1 yard
- You will also need bias tape for the front yoke binding. You can either purchase pre-made bias tape (also called bias binding) or use the cutting chart below to make your own. If you are purchasing it pre-made, for ladies & child sizes it needs to be ½ inch wide double fold tape (or 1 inch wide single fold and you can iron it in half). See the cutting chart on the next page for lengths. For the dolls size it needs to be ¼ inch wide double fold (½ inch wide single fold).
- Childs sizes – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Ladies sizes – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- You don’t need the leg binding piece from the original pattern
- The front & back add-on pieces are exactly the same as the original. The only difference is the length and that you only cut x2 of the main fabric (no need to cut x2 of lining as well). For the original short lengths, we have added 1.5 inches to the length, so you have room for a seam allowance (the original didn’t have a seam allowance, you simply added your leg binding to it).
- The add-on has 1 additional pattern piece which is the front yoke binding. You can either print this or use the measurement chart above for it.
- Front Yoke
- Back Yoke
- Front Side Yoke
- Side Front Pocket
- Pocket Bag
- Waistband
- Pocket Binding
- Front – Cut 2x (mirror image) pants front pieces of your main fabric, at your desired length.
- Back – Cut 2x (mirror image) pants back pieces of your main fabric, at your desired length.
- Front Yoke Binding – If not using a serger, cut binding piece (on the bias) or if using prepared bias binding, cut to length per the cutting chart.
Project OverviewBerry Bubble Add-on
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
This is an add-on pattern for the Berry Bubble Shorts. You will need the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern pieces and instructions to sew this.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
See the original Berry Bubble pattern for size charts.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
See the original Berry Bubble pattern for finished measurements except for lengths listed below.
Child’s inseam length (crotch seam to hem) Mid-thigh Knee Capri (¾) Pants 0 – 3 mos 3.00 5.00 7.50 10.00 3 – 6 mos 3.00 5.00 8.00 11.00 6 – 12 mos 3.25 5.25 8.50 12.00 12 – 18 mos 4.00 6.25 9.50 13.00 18 – 24 mos 4.50 7.00 10.00 14.00 2 – 3 yrs 4.00 6.50 9.00 13.00 3 – 4 yrs 4.75 7.75 11.75 15.75 5 – 6 yrs 5.50 8.00 12.75 18.00 7 – 8 yrs 6.00 9.00 14.00 19.00 9 – 10 yrs 6.75 9.75 14.50 19.75 11 – 12 yrs 7.00 10.00 15.00 20.75 Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsRefer to the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern for elastic requirements, fabric tips and other supplies and tools needed.
Lining fabric – We will only be lining the front, side front and back yokes. A ¼ yard of this will be sufficient for all sizes.
Main fabric
If you are doing one of the original lengths (child’s short, or ladies short/mid-thigh/knee lengths), please see the original pattern for quantities. If you are doing one of the new lengths, you will need the quantity in the original pattern plus an extra:* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Shorts Mid-thigh Knee Capri Full 0-12 mos 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 12-24 mos 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-3 yrs 5-8, 14 5-8, 12-15 5-8, 12-15 5-8, 12-15 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 3-4 yrs 5-8, 14, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 5-6 yrs 5-8, 14, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 7-8 yrs 5-8, 14, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 9-12 yrs 5-8, 14, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 21 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Shorts Mid-thigh Knee Capri Full 0-12 mos 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 12-18 mos 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-3, 9-10, 16-18 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-4, 9-11, 16-18 2-8 yrs 5-8, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 9-12 yrs 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-21 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 5-8, 12-15, 19-22 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are included in the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern.
Child’s front yoke binding (cut 1 on the bias) Width Length 0 – 3 mos 2.0 15.5 3 – 6 mos 2.0 16 6 – 12 mos 2.0 16.6 12 – 18 mos 2.0 17 18 – 24 mos 2.0 17.5 2 – 3 yrs 2.0 19 3 – 4 yrs 2.0 20 5 – 6 yrs 2.0 21 7 – 8 yrs 2.0 22 9 – 10 yrs 2.0 23 11 – 12 yrs 2.0 24 The only pattern pieces which are different in the add-on to the original are the following:
Cutting Checklist:
For all lengths, cut the following per the cutting instructions in the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern (everything except the Front, Back and Leg Binding pattern pieces):
From this Add-on pattern, cut the following:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- BINDING AND PLEATS – Follow all preparation steps for the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern.
- FRONT AND SIDE YOKES – Complete steps 1 and 2 in the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern.
- POCKETS – Using a French seam or a serger, connect Side Front Pocket to Pocket Bag. Pin and baste pocket curve to pants side, wrong sides together. Cover edges with double fold bias tape and topstitch close to the edge. Baste pocket top and side to pants. Repeat with second pocket.
- SHORTS FRONT SEAM – Using a French seam or a serger, sew center front seam. Press to the wearer’s left and topstitch.
- ASSEMBLE SHORTS FRONT – Follow step 4.7 from the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern. Serge or use bias tape to finish the seam. Press down.
- BACK YOKE – With the right sides of the fabric together, place Back Yoke main on pants back and pin. Flip the whole thing around and place the Back Yoke lining on pants back, wrong sides together. Sew, flip yoke pieces up and press.
- SHORTS BACK SEAM – Using a French seam or a serger, sew center back seam. Press to the wearer’s left and topstitch.
- SIDE SEAMS – Using a French seam or a serger, sew side seams of pants.
- INSEAM – Sew inseam using a French seam or a serger.
- WAISTBAND – Follow the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern, step 9 for buttonhole elastic or step 10 for regular elastic.
- HEM – Fold up and press or serge ½ inch on each leg. Fold up and press 1 inch. Sew close to edge.
- BUTTONS/SNAPS – Follow step 11 from the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1NOTE – The instructions are the same for the ladies, child’s, and dolls versions. You may find the pictured pattern pieces vary a little in size & shape, but the techniques are all the same.
NOTE – If you are using a serger, you can choose to sew on a regular machine, then serge to provide additional durability to the garment.
0.2If you are not using a serger, follow the Bias Tape step from the original pattern to prepare your Front Yoke binding.
Complete the Pleats step from the original pattern to prepare your Pleats.
1 . Front and Side Yokes1.0Follow steps 1.1 to 2.2 from the original pattern. Then follow below.
2 . Pockets2.0This step is slightly different to attaching the Pocket Bag in the original pattern. Since the pocket will be exposed on the inside of the garment (rather than enclosed inside the lining), we will finish the edge.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place Side Front Pocket and Pocket Bag right sides together and serge along the outside edge using ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 2.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to create the Pocket Bag. The reason for it is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. Follow the steps below.
2.1Place Side Front Pocket and Pocket Bag with wrong sides together and stitch along the outside edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.2Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
2.3Press this tiny seam allowance to one side as much as you can.
Turn the seam inside out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
2.4From here on the method of attaching the Pocket Bag to the shorts is the same as in the original pattern. Follow along below:
Pin short curve of Pocket Bag to pants front (be careful to not catch the Side Front Pocket), wrong side to wrong side.
Baste it together.
2.5Slip one double folded Pocket Binding or bias tape over the raw edge along the pocket curve you just basted. The raw edge of pocket curve should be right up to the middle of the bias tape.
Pin in place.
TIP – Keep Side Front Pocket folded back to make sure you don’t catch it while sewing.
2.6Topstitch close to the edge of the bias tape making sure to catch both sides of the binding while you sew. Trim excess binding in line with the edges.
2.7Using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a long stitch, baste the Pocket top and side to the Pants Front.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 with the other pocket.
3 . Shorts Front Seam3.0As the inside of the garment will be exposed with no lining, we will use a slightly different method to sew the shorts front seam than in the original pattern. Either follow the serger or French seam option below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, with the right sides of the pants fronts together serge the center front seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.
3.1Align the two Pants Front pieces, wrong sides together and pin along the curved center seam.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.2Trim the seam allowance close to the stitch line, and if necessary, make snips in the remaining seam allowance to help prevent bulk. Make sure you don’t snip too close to the stitches.
TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.
3.3Turn right sides together, press and stitch again with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Press seam to wearer’s left.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam in place ⅛ from seam to give the same topstitched appearance as in the original pattern.
4 . Assemble Shorts Front4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow step 4.1 to 4.3 below, then serge through all the layers and press towards the bottom of the shorts. Then skip to step 5.1
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below to assemble Shorts Front and add Front Yoke Binding to finish the edge.
4.1Follow step 4.7 from the Berry Bubble Shorts pattern.
You should now have your completed Front Yoke with a pin marking the bottom center.
4.2Position the shorts front right side up. Pin the Front Yoke upside down onto the front (with right sides together). Match the middle point pin on the yoke with the shorts front center seam. Also match the edges of the Yoke with the folded edges of the pocket binding.
Pin together and baste into place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – For some sizes you need to stretch the Front Yoke slightly as you pin and then stitch it. Otherwise, it won’t fit and will look a little wavy after top stitching. Stretching it a little keeps it sitting flat on the finished garment.
4.3Pin both side Yokes upside down on the right side of the shorts front and wrong side of the Front Yoke as pictured.
The edges of the side Yokes should match up with the edge of the shorts. The side Yokes will then overlap the Front Yoke. In the larger sizes they overlap quite a bit more than in the photo. This is correct, just make sure the edge of the side Yoke lines up with the side seam of the shorts.
The bit that is the trickiest is to make sure the side Yokes are the right way up. The curved edge is the one you need to stitch to the shorts. The straight edge will later get stitched to the waistband.
Stitch through all layers using a ½ inch seam allowance (go slowly or use a walking foot if you have one to stop all layers from moving about).
TIP – I like to position a pin on each pleat to make sure they are folded in the right direction when basting.
Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch.
4.4Open your bias tape and pin the tape right side down onto one side of the seam.
Align one fold of the bias tape with the stitching of the seam.
The main part of the bias tape should be on the garment. The edge of the bias tape should be on the seam allowance.
4.5Stitch down the fold to attach the bias tape to the seam.
4.6Fold the bias tape all the way around the seam allowance so it encloses it. Keep the far side of the bias tape folded under so the raw edges are now enclosed.
4.7Topstitch close to the edge.
Flip your front and side Yokes up and press your Front Yoke binding down towards the pants.
4.8Trim any excess tape. All your edges are beautifully hidden now!
Optional – Follow step 4.12 from the original pattern to top stitch your Front Yokes closed. Keep your binding pressed down towards the trouser legs, do not flip it up. Your top stitching will only catch the front and side Yokes to keep them closed and give the top stitched effect.
5 . Back Yoke5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow the steps below.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.
5.1First make sure you have the correct Back Yoke and shorts back piece. To check this, look at the shape of the Back Yoke. The taller end of the Back Yoke aligns with the center back of the shorts (where the crotch curve is). The shorter end aligns with what will be the shorts side seam. There is a note on the Back Yoke pattern piece that marks center back if you are unsure.
Just like the Front Yoke, the long curved edge is the one you need to stitch to the shorts back. The straight edge will later get stitched to the waistband.
With the right sides of the fabric together, place Back Yoke main on pants back and pin.
You will need to stretch the Back Yoke slightly when pinning to have it fit nicely and not pucker. This helps the waist sit firm and the ‘bubble’ look of the shorts really pop away in the finished garment.
Baste in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You only need to stretch it slightly. If it is too short, or you have to stretch it a lot, check the yoke is the correct way up. It may be upside down.
5.2Flip the garment over and place the right side of the Back Yoke lining on the wrong side of pants back.
Pants back will be sandwiched between the main and lining yokes.
5.3Stitch through all the layers using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.4Flip both main and lining yokes up and press.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 with the other back piece.
6 . Shorts Back Seam6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, align both back pieces right sides together and pin along the curved center back seam. Serge with a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 6.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.
6.1This will be the same as the front center seam.
Align both pants back pieces wrong sides together and pin the center back seam.
Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.2Trim the seam allowance so close as possible to the stitching line without compromising it.
If necessary, make snips in the seam allowance around the curve to help reduce bulk.
6.3Turn right sides together, press and stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.4Press seam to wearer’s left.
Optional – Topstitch the seam in place 1/8 from seam to give the same topstitched appearance as in the original pattern.
7 . Side Seams7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the pants front and pants back right sides together and serge down each side seam using ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 8.1.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.
7.1We will be, once again, making a French Seam so that the raw edges are hidden on the inside of the garment.
Place pants front and back wrong sides together, making sure that your yoke seams align, and pin them together.
Stitch each side using ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.2Trim seam allowance.
7.3Turn right sides together, press and stitch again with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Turn right side out and press seams towards the back.
8 . Inseam8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, with the right sides of the pants together, pin crotch seams together and seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 9.1.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.
8.1Close the inseam using a French Seam.
Again, start with the wrong sides together, align front and back crotch seams and pin them together.
Stitch with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.2Trim the seam allowance.
Turn right sides together, press and stitch with a ¼ seam allowance.
Press the seam as best you can towards the back of the garment.
9 . Waistband9.0BUTTONHOLE ELASTIC – If you are using a buttonhole elastic, follow the instructions on the original Berry Bubble Shorts Pattern (Step 9).
REGULAR ELASTIC – If you are using regular elastic, follow the instructions on the original Berry Bubble Shorts Pattern (step 10).
10 . Hem10.0FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check you are happy with the finished length minus the hem allowances as below. Trim if you would like them shorter.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then turn 1 inch and topstitch.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow steps below.
10.1Turn the hem of each pants leg under ½ inch and press.
For the original short length – Turn the hem of each trouser leg under another ½ inch and press.
For the knee, capri or full length – Turn the hem of each trouser leg under another 1 inch and press.
Stitch all the way around the hem close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the fold).
11 . Buttons/Snaps11.0Follow step 11 of original Berry Bubble Shorts Pattern.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Berry Bubble Add On is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpberrytrousers.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBerry Bubble Add-on
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
This is an add-on pattern for the Berry Bubble Shorts. You will need the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern pieces and instructions to sew this.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
See the original Berry Bubble pattern for size charts.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
See the original Berry Bubble pattern for finished measurements except for lengths listed below.
Child’s inseam length (crotch seam to hem) Mid-thigh Knee Capri (¾) Pants 0 – 3 mos 3.00 5.00 7.50 10.00 3 – 6 mos 3.00 5.00 8.00 11.00 6 – 12 mos 3.25 5.25 8.50 12.00 12 – 18 mos 4.00 6.25 9.50 13.00 18 – 24 mos 4.50 7.00 10.00 14.00 2 – 3 yrs 4.00 6.50 9.00 13.00 3 – 4 yrs 4.75 7.75 11.75 15.75 5 – 6 yrs 5.50 8.00 12.75 18.00 7 – 8 yrs 6.00 9.00 14.00 19.00 9 – 10 yrs 6.75 9.75 14.50 19.75 11 – 12 yrs 7.00 10.00 15.00 20.75 Materials and ToolsRefer to the original Berry Bubble Shorts pattern for elastic requirements, fabric tips and other supplies and tools needed.
Lining fabric – We will only be lining the front, side front and back yokes. A ¼ yard of this will be sufficient for all sizes.
Main fabric
If you are doing one of the original lengths (child’s short, or ladies short/mid-thigh/knee lengths), please see the original pattern for quantities. If you are doing one of the new lengths, you will need the quantity in the original pattern plus an extra:- Child mid-thigh & knee lengths – ¼ yard
- Child capri & full lengths – ½ yard
- Ladies capri length – ½ yard
- Ladies full length – 1 yard
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- You will also need bias tape for the front yoke binding. You can either purchase pre-made bias tape (also called bias binding) or use the cutting chart below to make your own. If you are purchasing it pre-made, for ladies & child sizes it needs to be ½ inch wide double fold tape (or 1 inch wide single fold and you can iron it in half). See the cutting chart on the next page for lengths. For the dolls size it needs to be ¼ inch wide double fold (½ inch wide single fold).
- Childs sizes – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Ladies sizes – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.