ADD-ON Dolls' The Dreamy Drape

Dreamy Drape Add On

Difficulty Level = Beginner

This is an add-on pattern to the Dreamy Drape. You will need the original Dreamy Drape pattern to use it.

Add a flattering skirt in mini, knee length or midi to the waistband option of the Dreamy Drape top to make a Dreamy Dress! Or follow the skirt pattern only to make a separate skirt to wear with any top.

The skirt has an optional ‘walking vent’ in the center back for more ease. Or, you can follow the regular back seam option for a more form fitting skirt.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

18 in Dolls

Check the Fabric Notes section in the Dreamy Drape pattern to choose appropriate stretch fabric. The dress and skirt use the same fabric recommendations as the top.

For dolls only – because of the nature of sewing for dolls, the dress works quite well with a more structured fabric for the skirt and a flowy fabric for the top of the dress.  

* Fabric estimates assume 60inch / 150cm wide fabric. If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print or a fabric with nap you may need more.

You will also need:

• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting Checklist (Skirt Only Option)

• 2x Back skirt (1x mirror image pair)
• 1x Front skirt cut on fold
• 1x Waistband (Skirt-only option)

Cutting Checklist (Dress Option)

• 2x Back skirt (1x mirror image pair)
• 1x Front skirt cut on fold
• 1x Waistband (Dress option)
• Dreamy Drape Top (waistband option from the original Dreamy Drape pattern not necessary)

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer dart markings to skirt back pieces.  

Sewing –

1. BACK DARTS – SEW DART.  Press toward center back.  Repeat for other side.  
2. SKIRT BACK – 
   • NO WALKING VENT – sew back seam, right sides together.  Press seam open.  
   • WALKING VENT – Right sides together, sew from waist to vent notch.  Press seam open.  Topstitch around vent.  
3. SIDE SEAMS – Right sides together, sew front to back.  Press seams open.  
4. HEM – Press hem up ¾ inch and stitch.  
5. WAISTBAND (SKIRT ONLY) – Sew short ends of waistband, right sides together.  Fold waistband in half, wrong sides together.  Quarter waistband and top of skirt.  Match quarter points and sew, stretching only the waistband.  Flip band up and press seam allowance down.  
6. DREAMY DRAPE DRESS – Complete steps 1 to 4 and 6.1 of Dreamy Drape Pattern.  Sew short ends of waistband, right sides together.  Quarter top of waistband and bottom edge of top.  Match quarter points and sew, stretching only the waistband.  Flip band down and press seam allowance toward band.  Quarter bottom of waistband and top of skirt.  Match quarter points and sew, stretching only the waistband.  Press seam allowance toward waistband.  

Congratulations, your Dreamy Drape Dress is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpdreamydressaddon.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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