ADD-ON Paris Party Dress

Here are the options within this add on. All of them are suitable for both the ladies and child’s patterns.

Use stretch lace to create an overlay over the top. Use either lace or regular sleeves. 

Can use any neckline (boat or scoop) and the original sleeve pattern or puff sleeve. Does not work with the gathered cap sleeve.

Very quick and easy method for attaching the neckband. Same construction as many t-shirt neckbands.

It’s an alternative to the neckband step in the original pattern and can be used with any other option.

Cute, puffed sleeve head. Has short, ¾ or long sleeve length options. To be used instead of the original sleeve pattern piece.

Very sweet, gathered cap sleeve. To be used instead of the original sleeve. 

The elastic waistband option has pleats on the front and gathers on the back. There is no zipper in this version. 

Great for if you fall between sizes, or if you want an easier fit. Works great with the pockets option for both the ladies and child’s skirts.

Use this option to attach the skirt to the top to make a dress!

You need to use the elastic waistband (no zip) option to do this. You can mix and match with any other neckline, or sleeve and the lining and/or petticoat.

Add a lining to your skirt. 

Instructions are included for both the elastic waistband option and the original zip option.

This option adds a tulle petticoat to your skirt lining. 

There is one single gathered layer of tulle part way down the lining. Plus, a second even wider gathered layer of tulle on top of this. Super full prettiness

You need to use the skirt lining option. However, you can use any other option you want (skirt on its own, dress, elastic waist, zipper).

Add a lovely ribbon detail to the hem of the tulle petticoat. 

Can be used with the tulle petticoat option.

The sizing and finished garments sizing’s are the same as the main pattern.  Seam allowances are also the same.

The layout to this add on is different to the main pattern. Here you will find any fitting notes, fabric requirements and cutting instructions inside each option’s section.

NOTE – These instructions are the same for both the Ladies and Child’s Paris Party Dress. 

Pattern Pieces:  Top Front, Top Back, Sleeve of choice. 

Fabric: Light medium to medium weight jersey with a 4 way stretch and excellent recovery. We will refer to the jersey layer as lining. Stretch lace. 

NOTE – If your lace is very delicate and see through or if you are sewing with a lining of a contrasting color, you may wish to sew the shoulders, sides and arms seams using French seams. Refer to the main pattern instructions step 3 and add a ¼ seam allowance at the shoulders sides and arm seams.

Cutting Checklist: 

• Top Front – Lace cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
• Top Back – Lace cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
• Sleeves – Lace cut 2 on fold

Options:  Can be used with the original pattern or any of the other options.

Pin the Top Front and Top Back Lining pieces at the shoulders and sides and stitch or serge using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Press the seams to the back.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 to attach the Top Front and Top Back Lace pieces.

Keep both layers wrong side out.

Place the Lace Bodice over the Lining Bodice and align the raw edges of the neckline. The right side of the lace will face the wrong side of the Lining.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

Turn the Bodice right side out. And press the neckline gently.

Fold the Sleeve hem under ½ inch and press to crease the hem. Leave this for now. It is just for ease of pressing that we do it now so that you have this crease to follow later when the Sleeve is assembled.

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance of the hem on the lace Sleeves.  

NOTE – On the smallest sizes, it would be a good idea to hem the Sleeve at this point.  Topstitch using a twin needle or a stretch stitch just under ½ inch.

Fold the Sleeve right side to right side and stitch or serge along the arm with a ¼ inch seam allowance and stretch stitch. Press. 

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

Fold the Sleeve in half to find the middle point of the cap on the Sleeve and mark with a pin.

Baste the Lace and Lining along both the armhole with a long and loose stitch just inside the seam allowance.

Turn the Bodice wrong side out and insert the Sleeve right side out aligning the pin with the shoulder seam and the side seam with the Sleeve seam. Pin.

Stitch around the armhole using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Press the seam toward the Sleeve. 

OPTIONAL – Finish the seam allowance with a stretch overcasting stitch.

To hem the Sleeves, fold along the Sleeve crease towards the wrong side and press. The crease should be ½ inch from the raw edge. Topstitch using a twin needle or a stretch stitch just under ½ inch.

To hem the bottom of the shirt, fold both layers of lace and lining together under ½ inch. Press.

Fold again both layers together under ½ inch. Press.

From the right side of the top, topstitch the hem just under ½ inch using a twin needle or a stretch stitch. 

NOTE – If your lace has a nice scallop edge, cut your pieces strategically and align the scallop with the hem. Then, hem only the lining fabric layer. By turning under ½ inch twice. You can also finish the raw edge with a stretch overcasting stitch or a serger and turn under 1 inch and topstitch.

Pattern Pieces:  Use the same Top and Neckband pieces as in the main pattern

Options:  This method can be used for the boatneck or the scoop neck option.

The construction of the top is the same as in the main pattern. Follow the same instructions but instead of the neck binding instructions, follow the below steps. Then finish your top as per the main pattern instructions.

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Fold the Neckband in half right side to right side and stitch or serge the short edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance. If sewing on a regular sewing machine, press the seam open. If sewing on a serger, press the seam to one side.

Fold the Neckband lengthwise wrong side to wrong side. Press lightly making sure not to stretch the band.

Use pins to mark the quarters on the raw edges of band and the neckline. 

Working from the right side of the neckline, place the Neckband around the neckline so the raw edges meet. Align the seam of the Neckband with the center back and match the other quarter points.  Pin to secure. 

Stitch or serge around the neckline while stretching the Neckband gently to fit the neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

TIP – To prevent the fabric from waving, take extra to stretch only the band and not the neckline.

Press the seam allowance down and away from the band.

OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the neckline with a twin needle, medium size zig zag stitch or a stretch stitch.

Pattern Pieces:  

• Cut the Puff Sleeves in this pattern instead of the regular Sleeves in the original pattern. 
• You will also need the Front and Back (dress option) pattern piece from this add on, as it has the markings on it where to gather the Sleeve. You do not need to necessarily do the dress, just use the shoulder section to get the markings.

Options:  Can be used with the original pattern or any of the other options. You can use any length of Sleeve for this method.

Transfer the Sleeves notches from the pattern on each Sleeve using a washable pen or chalk.

Stitch or serge the shoulders and sides right side to right side using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back

OPTIONAL – Finish the raw edge of the Sleeve hem with a serger or a stretch mock overlock stitch.

NOTE – If you are sewing a very small size, it might be easier to hem the Sleeve at this step.

Fold the Sleeve in half right side to right side and stitch or serge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches between the notches.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, start at one notch and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). 

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier. 

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have! 

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.

Place a pin on top in the middle of the Sleeve cap.

Turn the bodice wrong side and insert the Sleeve right side out aligning the pin with the shoulder seam and the side seam with the Sleeve seam. Pin.

Continue to pin from the side seam until you reach the notches.

Starting at one notch, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Sleeve until it is the same length as armscye. Pin in place.

Stitch around the armscye using a ¼ inch seam allowance Sleeve. Stitch the Sleeve with the gathers on top making sure there are no puckers.

Remove the gathering stitches by delicately pulling the ends of the gathering threads so that they come all the way through the armhole. Find the thread from the underside and pull this out too. Remove any loose threads you can see. 

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard. If this happens, just pull the other end.

Pattern Pieces:  

• Cut the puff Sleeves in this pattern instead of the regular Sleeves in the original pattern.
• You will also need the front and back (dress option) pattern piece from this add on as it has the markings on it where to gather the Sleeve. You do not need to necessarily do the dress, just use the shoulder section to get the markings.

Options:  Can be used with the original pattern or any of the other options.

Transfer the armscye notches from the pattern on the front and back using a washable pen or chalk.

Transfer the Sleeve gather notches from the pattern on both Sleeve caps.

Fold the hem of each Sleeve under ¼ inch and press.

Fold the hem of each Sleeve again under ¼ inch and press. From the right side of the fabric, topstitch in place.

Run two rows of gathering stitches as described in the puffed Sleeves instructions.

Fold the cap Sleeve in half and mark the center with a pin.

Align the raw edge of the Sleeve cap with the raw edge of the armscye right side together. Match the pin with shoulder seam and pin both ends of the cap Sleeve at the notches.

Find a pair of bobbin thread and very gently pull on both equally to gather the cap Sleeve until it fits between the notches. Distribute the gathers.

Stitch the cap using a ¼ seam allowance and a stretch stitch.

Press the Sleeve cap away from the top. 

Fold under ¼ inch the remaining seam allowance all around the armscye. Press.

Optional: Finish the seam with a serger of a stretch overcasting stitch before turning under.

From the right side of the fabric, topstitch all around the armhole using a narrow twin needle, a zig zag stitch, or a stretch stitch.

Pattern Pieces:  

• Use the same Skirt pattern pieces as in the original pattern. However, you will use 2x Front Skirts (not 1x Front and 2x Back). 
• Do not use the original Waistband. Either use the Elastic Waistband pieces from the pattern pieces in this add-on, or alternatively cut from the measurements in the chart below.

Cutting Instructions

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

• Front Skirt – Fabric cut 2 on fold
• Elastic Front Waistband – Fabric cut 1
• Elastic Back Waistband – Fabric cut 1
• Elastic – cut 1 as per cut chart above
• OPTIONAL Pockets – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)

Options:  Can be used on its own or with the dress, lining and/or tulle petticoat options.

NOTE – The Elastic Waistband OPTION has pleats on the Front and gathers on the Back. There is no zipper in this version. 

Apply fusible interfacing to the Front Waistband as per manufacturer’s instructions.

Transfer the markings and stitch the pleats on the Front Skirt piece only.

If adding OPTIONAL Pockets, follow the main pattern instructions step 3. Sew the side using step 4 instructions. 

NOTE – The Back Skirt will be larger than the front at this stage.

Place the Waistband pieces right side to right side and stitch both short sides using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press the seams open.

Fold one long raw edge under ½ inch and press.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the raw edge of the Back Skirt piece.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end, and a loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension. Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (just under ¼ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge. When you do your rows of gathering stitches, start at one notch, and sew to the next. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo).

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!

TIP – For gathering lighter or delicate fabrics – If you are using a lighter or delicate fabric, you might want to do your two rows of gathering stitches INSIDE the seam allowance. Do your first row just under the seam allowance. Aim to do your second row between the first row and the raw edge of the back opening.

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.

Fold the Skirt and Back Waistband in half to find center back and mark with pins.

Pin the right side of the Waistband unfolded edge to the wrong side of the skirt and match the side seams and center back. Pin the pleated front along the Front Waistband as well. They should be the same length.

We are now going to gather the Back Skirt, so it is the same length as your back Waistband. Back in step 5.1 you did your gathering stitches from side seam to side seam. 

Starting at one side, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the back. You want to keep gathering until the back is the same length as your back Waistband. Pin in place.

Stitch all around the Waistband using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Press the Waistband up and away from the skirt.

TIP – Stitch with the gathers on top, making sure there are no puckers.

Working from the right side of the skirt, fold the Waistband and pin the long-folded edge down around the back waistline. You should be aiming to pin the hem of the Waistband just below the stitching line where the Waistband meets the skirt. Make sure all raw edges are tucked up inside. Pin in place. Do not pin the front just yet.

TIP – Instead of pins, I like to use a double sided fusible tape for this step.

From the right side of the skirt, topstitch the back of the Waistband from side to side, backstitching at both ends, ⅛ inch from the seam.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering thread so that they come all the way through the ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the ruffle and pull this out too. 

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

We will now thread the elastic through the Waistband casing.  Pin one end of your elastic securely close to the casing opening. This stops it slipping into the Waistband as you feed the elastic through. Attach a safety pin to the other end of the elastic. Then feed the elastic through the casing opening on the side seam leaving an excess of ½ inch on each side.

From the right side of the skirt, stitch the elastic in the ditch on both sides by machine or by hand. Stitching in the ditch is when you stitch directly over another seam making your stitches almost invisible.

Fold the Front Waistband down on the skirt and pin. Topstitch the Front Waistband ⅛ from the seam.

Pattern Pieces:  

• Use the same skirt pattern pieces as in the original pattern. However, as with the Elastic Waistband OPTION, use 2x Front Skirts (not 1x Front and 2x Back). 
• Do not use the original Waistband. Either use the Waistband (dress OPTION) pieces from the pattern pieces in this add-on, or the measurements from the cutting chart below.
• Use the Top Front and Back (attached to skirt option) from the pattern pieces in this add-on (instead of the original top). You will notice the top is shorter so that it sits at the waist where the skirt goes to, and the side seam line is altered. This is because the top on its own has ease built in to make it comfy to move in. However, for this option we want the top to meet the skirt, so the line is different.
• The Waistband elastic for the dress option is longer than the elastic for the skirt option. This is so you can get the dress over your head to wear it. Use the cutting chart measurements below. However, if in doubt, cut your elastic longer and then try your dress on & trim to the length you are most comfortable with. 
• Cut any Sleeves & neckline you like.

Cutting Instructions

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front Skirt – Fabric cut 2 x on fold from original pattern
• Front Waistband (dress option) – Fabric cut 2
• Back Waistband (dress option) – Fabric cut 2
• Top Back (attached to skirt option) – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Top Front (attached to skirt option) – Fabric cut 1
• Elastic – cut 1 as per chart above
• OPTIONAL Skirt Lining: 
  • Front Skirt – Lining cut 1 on fold
  • Back Skirt – Lining cut 1 on fold (using the original skirt front pattern piece)

Options:  Must be used with the Elastic Waistband option. You can add any sleeve or any neckline. If you also wish to do the lining on its own or the lining & petticoat, follow instructions of the elastic skirt lining and continue with the dress option instructions treating the skirt and lining as one layer.

NOTE – These photos show two different skirt fabrics as this step mix and matches techniques from the elastic waistband as well as new ones. 

Follow the Elastic Waistband instructions for steps 1.1 to 3.1.

Do the Elastic Waistband step 4.1 for both Waistband Front and Back pairs.

Refer to step 5.1 of the elastic back Waistband tutorial to stitch gathering stitches along the back of the Skirt.

Fold the Skirt and 1x Waistband in half and place a pin to mark the center back.

NOTE – Use whichever Waistband you want to be the outside Waistband, the other one is the lining of the Waistband.

Place the outside Waistband right side to right side along the waist of the skirt matching the raw edges and the side seams. The front of the Waistband will be the same size as the front of the skirt and the back Waistband will be shorter than the skirt back.

We are now going to gather the Back Skirt, so it is the same length as your back Waistband. Back in step 5.1 you did your gathering stitches from side seam to side seam. Starting at one side, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the back. You want to keep gathering until the back is the same length as your back Waistband. Pin in place.

Baste all around the Waistband using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

We will now sandwich the skirt between the inside and outside Waistband. To do so, we will place the inside Waistband right side to the wrong side of the skirt matching one raw edge of the Waistband with the raw edge of the skirt and matching the side seams. Because we already gathered the skirt to fit the back Waistband step 1.7, the Waistband should be the same size as the skirt front and back.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and press both inside and outside Waistband up.

Fold the inside Waistband top raw edge under ½ inch and press and fold it down so you don’t accidentally stitch through the inside Waistband when attaching the top to the outside Waistband on the following steps.

Fold the Back Bodice and Skirt Back and mark center back with a pin.

With the bodice right side out and the skirt wrong side out, slip the bodice inside the skirt upside down and align the raw edge of the bodice with the raw edge of the outside Waistband matching the side seams. Align the side seams and center back. 

NOTE – Again, the Front Waistband and front bodice will be the same length, but the back Waistband should be a little wider than the back bodice. You will need to stretch the back bodice a little to fit the Waistband while you sew.

Stitch the bodice to the outside Waistband using a ½ inch. Stretch the back bodice gently to fit. Press the seam allowance down with steam paying attention not to stretch the fabric even more.

Working from the inside of the skirt and pinning from the outside, fold the inside Waistband up to sandwich the top in between. Pin only the back of the Waistband for now from side to side, using 2-3 pins only. You will again stretch the back bodice to fit the inside Waistband while sewing the casing close in the next step. 

From the right side of the Waistband, topstitch the top of the Waistband 1/8 inch from the top edge. Make sure that you catch the inside Waistband all along the back. This will create a casing where you will insert the elastic.

Insert the elastic and stitch in the ditch to secure both ends like in step 5.10 to 5.11.

Working from the inside of the skirt and pining from the outside, pin the Front Waistband up on the front bodice. The front bodice should match the width of the Waistband. Topstitch using a 1/8 inch seam allowance.

Continue with hemming and top instructions according to the option of your choice.

Lining Fabric: Light weight woven (e.g. cotton) or lining fabric.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

Pattern Pieces:  Use the original Skirt pattern pieces as your skirt. Plus, the Skirt Lining pattern pieces from this add on as your lining. 

Cutting Checklist: 

• 1x Skirt Front Lining cut on the fold (from this add-on pattern)
• 2x Skirt Back Lining (from this add-on pattern)
• 1x Skirt Front cut on the fold (from the original pattern)
• 2x Skirt Back (from the original pattern)

Options:  Can be used with the either the zipper or the Elastic Waistband. Follow the different steps below for each.

We will insert the zipper differently on the skirt with a lining because we want to sandwich the zipper between the layers and hide all raw edges.  

Preparation: 

• Transfer the markings and stitch the pleats on the front and back pieces.  
• If adding pockets, follow the main pattern instructions step 3. 
• Sew the side using step 4 instructions. 
• Follow the zipper instructions from the original pattern from 5.1 to 5.4 to sew the back of the skirt. 
• Do not close the top of the seam where we will insert the zipper with basting stitches like in the original instructions. 
• Continue to press the ⅝ inch seam allowance under above the center back French seam.  

Sew the lining sides using French seams just like in the main pattern instructions step 4.2 to 4.4.

With the skirt wrong side out, unfold the left hand side ⅝ inch seam allowance and refold it with a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Press.

Open the zipper and place it face down on the wrong side of the skirt. Align the left-hand side zipper teeth with the left side pressed edge.

Pin the left zipper to the seam allowance only, making sure not to catch the skirt underneath.

Baste the left zipper tape along the outside edge opposite to the teeth.

Step 1.2, we refolded the ⅝ inch seam allowance on the left to ⅜ inch. We will now fold and press the seam allowance to the original ⅝ inch. This will create the flap that will later hide the zipper.

Place the right-hand zipper tape right side to right side to the right hand side seam allowance and align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge. Pin to the seam allowance making sure not to catch the skirt underneath.

Before stitching the zipper to the right-hand side seam allowance, turn the skirt to the right side and zip up the zipper to make sure it is correctly aligned and that there are no puckers. Better make sure now than unstitch the zipper later.

Turn the skirt back inside out and stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance. 

From the right side, you will now have a perfectly stitched lapped zipper.

We will now attach the lining to the zipper. With the skirt wrong side out, open the zipper and place it to the side.

Unfold the seam allowance that is facing down (on your right-hand side).

Place one skirt lining center back right side to right side with the seam allowance you just unfolded step 2.2 and pin. Mark with a pin where the zipper stop is.

Your zipper tape will now be sandwiched between the skirt and lining center back.

Using a zipper foot stitch along the zipper tape. Stop just before your zipper stop mark.

You successfully enclosed one side of the zipper tape.

Turn the skirt to the other side and repeat for the other side of the lining.

Now both sides of the zipper are sandwiched between the skirt and lining.

We will now finish the skirt center back with a French seam. Place the skirt wrong side out, separating the lining from and skirt.

Make a ½ inch snip with the very tip of your scissors for maximum control into the seam allowance just below the zipper stop.

Sew the back seam right side to right side with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Cut your seam allowance in half.

Fold the skirt lining right side to right side and pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance to create a French seam. Your seam should be approximately aligned with the upper seam holding the lining zipper and skirt together.

Bring the skirt and lining together and baste all around the waistline with the wrong side of the skirt to the right side of the lining matching the side seams.

Turn the skirt right side out. We will topstitch the lapped zipper through all layers with an L shape. I like to trace it on the fabric with a washable marker or chalk to ensure a perfectly straight topstitching line.

Pattern Pieces:  Use the original Skirt Front pattern piece as your Back Lining. Use the Lining Front pattern piece from this add on as your Front Lining.

Cutting Checklist: 

• Cut 1x Lining Front on the fold using the Front Lining cutting line from this add-on.
• Cut 1x Lining Back on the fold using the original skirt Front pattern piece. This will be 1 inch too long so trim 1 inch off the hem of this piece.
• Cut your Skirt pieces as per the Elastic Waistband instructions.

Options:  Must be used with the Elastic Waistband OPTION. Can also be used with the dress option.

Follow the elastic back add on instructions up to 5.2 to mark and stitch the front pleats and attach the sides of the skirt.

Sew the lining sides using French seams, like in the main pattern instructions step 4.2 to 4.4.

With both skirt and skirt lining right sides out, insert the lining inside the skirt matching all raw edges and side seams.

Baste all around the waist and use from now on as one layer.

Continue with the Elastic waist skirt instructions to attach the Waistband and finish the skirt.

There are two ways you can do the net petticoat. Either where the netting is the same length as the main skirt (1 inch longer than the lining). Or where the netting protrudes below the skirt hemline.

The cutting charts below show the netting lengths for where it protrudes below the skirt. It sticks out by 1.5 inches for 0-24 month’s size, 2 inches for 2-12 years and 2.5 inches for women’s sizes.

If you want it to be the same length as the skirt, then you will need to trim these amounts off the netting.

Netting protruding (as per chart), and Netting same length as skirt.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Pattern Pieces:  No pattern pieces required for netting, use the cutting chart above. 

Fabric: Light medium to medium weight jersey with a 4 way stretch and excellent recovery. Stretch lace. 

Cutting Checklist: 

• 4x Netting (cut from chart above)
• 4x Netting Ruffle (cut from chart above)
• Skirt and Skirt Lining pieces as per the Skirt Lining Instructions.

Options: Can only be used with the Skirt Lining option. Can be used with any length option, and the dress option if wished.

Pin the four lower netting pieces together so they form a circle. 

Stitch ½ inch from the edge along both side seams.

Trim so the seams are neat and press to the side. 

NOTE – When you are pressing netting or tulle you will need to use a low heat on your iron, or it may melt. Test this first on a scrap of netting/tulle using your iron manufacturer’s instructions.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of the lower netting. Start and end at each seam to create 4 distinct gathering sections. Follow the instructions of the Elastic Back Waistband step 5.1.

RUFFLER FOOT OPTION – If you have a ruffler foot attachment do not do this step, but instead use this to attach the netting. You will need to align it as per step 1.6 further down in this section. Then skip to step 2.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 to attach and create 2 rows of gathering stitches along the top of the upper netting pieces. We will now refer to this larger circle of tulle/netting as a ruffle.

NOTE – On my machine, I find that I get a better result to gather the tulle if I use a regular length stitch length instead of a loose long stitch. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.

Align the bottom edges of the netting and ruffle matching all 4 seams (the ruffle is half the height of the netting, so it will start approximately in the middle of the netting). 

Working section by section, gather the ruffle so it is the same width as the netting layer and pin.

Stitch the ruffle layer to the netting using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

So now you should have a long circle of netting with a gathered shorter ruffle stitched to it about half way down. The netting and ruffle hems will be the same length.

At step 1.3 we did 2 rows of gathering stitches to the top of the lower netting layer. We will now attach it to the lining of the skirt. The tulle will be sandwich between the lining and skirt. Mark a line with a washable pen or chalk on the right side of the lining according to your size using the measurements below. 

Measure down from the top of the skirt lining:

• 1.5 inches for 0-24 months
• 2 inches for 2-12 years
• 2.5 inches for women’s sizes

This is where you will place the top of the netting.

Fold the Skirt Lining into quarters to find the center font, center back, left side and right side. Place pins in all 4 places then unfold it again.

The Skirt Lining should now be back in its circle shape but with pins at the center front, center back and side seams along line you marked step 1.6

We will be matching these pins to the center front, center back, left, and right sides of the lower netting shortly. There is no need to mark these points on the netting as you cut it out in four pieces so you can use the 4 seams as reference.

NOTE – Make sure to change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

TIP – Pins can fall out of netting quite easily. To avoid this, make sure to weave each pin in and out of the netting a number of times, or use clips.

NOTE – Because we will gather the skirt to attach it to the Waistband later on like in the skirt with elastic Waistband instructions, the back portion of the lining will be larger than the front. You won’t have to gather the back as much as the front and that is normal. Don’t worry! The skirt and Waistband will be gathered, gathering at the same time the petticoat underneath.

With both the Skirt Lining, and the netting right side out, slip the lower netting over the Skirt Lining.

NOTE – The side with the ruffle faces outwards. The netting will be sandwiched between the skirt and lining when wearing it so that the netting doesn’t itch the skin. From now on, treat the netting and ruffle as one layer.

Pin the top of the netting to the Skirt Lining matching your quarter points. Stitch all around the lining between your two gathering rows.

TIP – When you place your pins, take care not to just have them touch the Skirt Lining & netting. Do not pin the thread. If you pin the thread, you will have difficulty gathering the thread later.

NOTE – The hem allowance of the skirt and lining is 1 inch. This means if you do it like just described the netting and skirt will be the same length and the lining will be 1 inch shorter. That way the lining will be out of view, but you’ll be able to see little flounces of the netting occasionally when the wearer moves.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering thread so that they come all the way through the ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the ruffle and pull this out too.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

Your tulle petticoat is complete. From here on, treat the netting and lining as one layer.

Baste the lining to the skirt around the waist and use from now on as one layer.

Continue with the Elastic waist skirt instructions step 4 to attach your Waistband and finish the skirt.

Pin the 4 layers of lower netting pieces together so they form a long rectangle. 

Do not sew it closed like in the elastic waist option. 

There will be three seams instead of four.

Trim the seam allowances so the seams are neat and press to the side.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of the lower netting. Start and end at each seam to create 4 distinct gathering sections. Follow the instructions of the Elastic Back Waistband step 5.1.

NOTE – On my machine, I find that I get a better result to gather the tulle if I use a regular length stitch length instead of a loose long stitch. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.

RUFFLER FOOT OPTION – If you have a ruffler foot attachment do not do this step, but instead use this to attach the netting. You will need to align it as per step 1.9 further down in this section. Then skip to step 2.

Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.3 for the upper netting option. We will now refer to this section as the ruffle.

Align the bottom edges of the netting and ruffle matching all 3 seams, and short edges (the ruffle is half the height of the netting, so it will start approximately in the middle of the netting). 

Working section by section, gather the ruffle so it is the same width as the netting layer and pin.

NOTE – On my machine, I find that I get a better result to gather the tulle if I use a regular length stitch length instead of a loose long stitch. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.

Stitch the ruffle layer to the netting by stitching between your 2 rows of gathering stitches. 

So now you should have a long rectangle of netting with a gathered shorter ruffle stitched to it about half way down. The netting and ruffle hems will be the same length.

Sew the lining sides using French seams but leave the back seam open.

Place the Skirt Lining wrong side up and shave off ½ inch from the right-hand side center back seam.

At step 1.3 we did 2 rows of gathering stitches to the top of the lower netting layer. We will now attach it to the lining of the skirt. The tulle will be sandwich between the lining and skirt. Mark a line with a washable pen or chalk on the wrong side of the lining according to your size using the measurements below. 

Measure down from the top of the Skirt Lining:

• 2.5 inches for 0-24 months
• 3.5 inches for 2-12 year
• 5.5 inches for women’s size.

This is where you will place the top of the netting.

Fold the bottom of the Skirt Lining in half to find the center font, left side, and right side. Place a pin on the fold to mark the center and then open it wrong side up.

NOTE – Because we will gather the skirt to attach it to the Waistband later on like in the skirt with elastic Waistband instructions, the back portion of the lining will be larger than the front. You won’t have to gather the back as much as the front and that is normal. Don’t worry! The skirt and Waistband will be gathered, gathering at the same time the petticoat underneath.

We will be matching these pins to the center front, left and right sides of the lower netting shortly. There is no need to mark these points on the netting as you cut it out in four pieces so you can use the three seams as reference.

NOTE – Make sure to change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

TIP – Pins can fall out of netting quite easily. To avoid this, make sure to weave each pin in and out of the netting a number of times, or use clips.

Baste the short raw edges of the netting and ruffle to the lining along center back so it is out of the way when we will attach the lining to the skirt and zipper. Stop 1 inch from the bottom of the skirt for hemming purposes.

Follow the basic lining with zipper instructions steps 2 to attach the lining to the zipper.

Hem the lining and skirt using the main pattern instructions step 6 except your lining center back seam will still be opened. Pull the tulle out of the way when hemming.

Check that your lining is still the same length before proceeding to the next step.

Stitch the center back lining and tulle right side to right side using a ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch straight down through all layers including the netting.

Start stitching ½ inch above where the zip stitching ends. Stitch all the way down the side seam until you reach the bottom of the tulle. 

When you are stitching, stay as close to the zip as possible as you do the first ½ inch of the seam. You won’t be able to stitch directly on top of the zip seam as the zip teeth will be on the way. Just stay as close as you can to avoid a ‘bubble’ of fabric at the bottom of the zip. 

TIP – Use your regular zipper foot to stitch this seam.

Fold each side of the seam allowance in half, tucking the raw edge underneath and pinning it down. The raw edges should now be hidden. Hold the zip tape out of the way as you do the bit on each side of the zip. Do not catch the zipper tape with your seam allowance.

TIP – Keep your dress on your ironing board to pin the seam allowance. This helps keep the extra fabric out of the way. Just be careful not to pin your dress to the ironing board cover though.

NOTE – If you are following the no-serger option, steps 2.7 can be quite fiddly. The sole purpose of these steps is to hide the raw edges of the garment. If you do not mind raw edges, you can do a zig zag stitch along the raw edges to stop them fraying. It will not give the same finish inside, however it’s much faster and easier! Change your sewing machine foot to a regular zipper foot. Take your dress off the ironing board. Check that you haven’t caught any extra fabric you didn’t mean to.

Stitch through the lining only.

Your tulle petticoat is complete. From here on, treat the netting, lining & skirt as one layer. Continue with the original pattern Waistband instructions to attach the Waistband and finish the skirt.

Pattern Pieces:  No change to pattern pieces. 

Ribbon: The ribbon in the photos is ¼ inch wide satin backed ribbon. However, you could use any ribbon you like. The more stiffness in your ribbon, the more body / puffiness the petticoat will have. 

The quantities below are for only putting ribbon on both layers of netting. This gives a super luxurious, incredibly full look. 

If you only want the ribbon on the bottom layer of tulle, you will need 1/3 of the quantities below. If you only want the ribbon on the top ruffle of tulle, you will need 2/3 of the quantities below.

Assemble the lower netting circle and ruffle following the tulle petticoat instructions 1.1 to 1.3.

Stitch the ribbon at the bottom of the 2 layers of tulle.

First make sure you have a fresh, fine needle (e.g. 75/11) in your machine. A blunt or ballpoint needle may leave tiny holes in the ribbon, or cause puckering. Then place the ribbon right side down (so that it curls upwards) onto your sewing machine.

Place the tulle right side down (so that it is also curving upwards) on top of the ribbon. You want the tulle to line up with the bottom of the tulle. Stitch close to the edge to secure. 

TIP – If you have one, use a walking foot, or Teflon coated foot on your sewing machine to help grab the slippery ribbon and stop the tulle moving around. Before you begin, make sure your ribbon is long enough to sew all around your netting circle. 

TIP – If your ribbon puckered during sewing, iron it with steam through a double layer of pressing cloth (e.g. a thin folded tea towel or piece of fabric) to protect the netting.

When you reach your starting point, fold the tip of the ribbon under ¼ inch to hide the raw edge before completing the circle.

Repeat 1.1 to 1.2 to attach ribbon to the upper ruffle of tulle.

Continue with the tulle petticoat instructions step 1.4.