ADD ON Women's Phoebe Party Dress

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam.

Staystitch each of the Front Leg pieces, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the trousers won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about while sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.

Staystitch each of the Back Leg pieces, at the waist in the direction of the arrows.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay one of the Front Leg pieces wrong side up on your ironing board.  

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep the pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As each new pin is placed, remove the old pin. The pattern piece should now be able to be lifted out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand. Check that the knot is very secure, then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

Press the dart toward the side seam.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the dart on the other Front Leg and on both Back Leg pieces.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front Legs right sides together, serge the center front seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the Back Legs, stopping at zipper marking. Skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The Front and Back Rise uses French seams. This seam will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With wrong sides together (right sides facing out), pin the Front Leg pieces together along the center front seam. 

Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half and carefully clip into the curve. 

TIP – The clipping will help the seam lay flat when finished but take care not to go too close to the seam when clipping.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the back rise on the Back Leg pieces, stopping at the zipper marking.

NOTE – The jumpsuit side seams are not identical lengths. The trouser edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the trousers look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the trouser side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your trousers out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the jumpsuit is complete, then hang the jumpsuit from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the trousers is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Legs right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use French seams to sew the side seams. This seam will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Place the Front and Back Legs wrong sides together (right sides facing out) and pin along each side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the trouser so right sides are together, wrong sides facing up, and press.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you would like to use the serger to finish your trouser hem, it’s easiest to serge the trouser hems now before serging the inseam. Serge the raw edges without removing the seam allowance. Then, with right sides of the trousers together, serge the crotch seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With wrong sides together stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim, turn, and press. 

With right sides together, stitch again at ¼ inch.

NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside of the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is enough.

From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice, and step 2 for optional interlining. 

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION:  From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3. 

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.

Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 to 10, skipping the steps to gather the top edge of the trousers before stitching it to the Bodice.

FIT CHECK – Try the jumpsuit on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 11 or 13 for hemming options.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam.

Staystitch the Front Skirt and two Back Skirt pieces at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to the fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay a front piece wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with the fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the Pencil Skirt.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep the pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As each new pin is placed, remove the old pin. The pattern piece should now be able to be lifted out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand. Check that the knot is very secure, then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

Repeat steps 2.1 and 2.2 for the darts on the other Front Skirt piece and both Back Skirt pieces.

Carefully press your waist darts toward the outside edge of the skirt.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Back to the Front, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Repeat for opposite side seam. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The Side seams use French seams. This seam will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Back to the Front, along the side seams.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat for the opposite side seam.

From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice, and step 2 for optional interlining. 

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION:  From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3. 

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.

Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 to 10, skipping the steps to gather the top edge of the skirt before stitching to the Bodice. When finishing the back seam, clip into each side of the seam allowance, 1-inch above the top of the kick pleat. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, serge the edge of the kick pleat. Then turn under ¼ inch, press, and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other side of the kick pleat. Then skip to step 6.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Finish the edge of the kick pleat by folding the edge ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ¼ inch and topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side of the skirt.

Take each side of the Kick Pleat and pin right sides together.

Run a basting stitch starting 1 inch down from the center back seam stitching. The basting stitch should go straight down from the Center Back Seam stitching line.

Stitch approximately 1 inch above the end of the center back seam until reaching the top of the basting stitches. Pivot and sew across the top of the Kick Pleat. Remember to back stitch at the start and end of your stitching.

With the wrong side of the skirt facing up, fold the Kick Pleat to the right and press.

Baste the top of the Kick Pleat to the skirt. Stitch directly on top of the stitching from step 6.4. 

Make sure that the front of the skirt is moved out of the way, and only sew through the Back of the skirt.

NOTE – These basting stitches will be used as a guide when sewing from the right side in the next step.

From the right side of the skirt, stitch directly over the basting stitches created in step 6.6, across the top of the kick pleat.

Remove all the basting stitches.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem edge. Then turn under 1 inch, press, and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Open out the kick pleat and fold the hem of the skirt to the wrong side ½ inch and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch the entire way around the skirt along the folded edge.

OPTIONAL – If an invisible hem is desired; we recommend a blind hem. This will give the dress a professional finish. A blind hem can be sewn by hand or a sewing machine if you have the correct stitch and blind hem foot.  

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Kick Pleat to the hem. The fabric will be folded under ½ inch, with the stitching along the folded edge.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the hem to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, in the edge of the kick pleat, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Insert the needle into the hem, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut. 

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening. 

Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the kick pleat and pull the thread through. Continue to stitch along, alternating from the kick pleat and the hem. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.

When you reach the end of the skirt, knot the thread.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam.

Staystitch the Front Skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center front towards the shoulders) 

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.  Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.

Staystitch the two Back Skirt pieces in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the Front and Back Frill pieces in the direction of the arrows.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay a Front Skirt wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the High-Low Fishtail Skirt.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the dart on the other side and both Back Skirt pieces.

Carefully press your waist darts toward the outside edge of the skirt.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Repeat for the opposite side seam. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt panels together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  Follow the steps below.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, along the side seams.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat for the opposite side seam.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Frill right sides together at the side seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back. Repeat for the other side seam. Align top edge of Frill with bottom edge of Skirt and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front and Back Frill together at the side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Trim the extra fabric at the seam.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the second side seam.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Frill and the Skirt together at the seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice, and step 2 for optional interlining. 

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION:  From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3. 

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.

Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 to 10, skipping the steps to gather the top edge of the Skirt before stitching to the Bodice.

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 11 to 13 for hemming options.

NOTE – As this is a very circular skirt you may find it easier to follow step 11.1. Then stitch in place and press. Then fold another ⅓ inch and pin. Stitch and press.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam.

Staystitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center front towards the shoulders) 

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.  Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.

Staystitch all four Side Front and Back Skirts, and the two Center Back Skirts, in the direction of the arrows.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for the second layer of Skirt pieces.

From the main pattern instructions, follow steps 6.1 to 6.11 to stitch the first layer. Repeat for the second layer. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place a Back Skirt Lining onto the Front Skirt Lining, right sides together, at the side seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down the back. Repeat for the other Back Skirt Lining at the side seam. Skip to step 4. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the Skirt Lining pieces together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front and Back Skirt Lining pieces together at the side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Trim the extra fabric at the seam.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to attach the other Back Skirt Lining to the Front Skirt Lining at the side seam.  

Place the Inner Skirt (longer) over the Skirt Lining, both right sides facing out. Match the side seams and center back seams. Pin.

Gently pull on both bobbin threads to gather the Inner Skirt, until it matches up with the top edge of the Skirt Lining. Pin.

Spread the gathered stitches out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.

Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3, placing the Outer Skirt (shorter) over the Inner Skirt (longer), aligning side seams and center back seams. You will now have three Skirt layers together: Outer, Inner and Lining. Baste all three layers together along the waist edge.

From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice, and step 2 for optional interlining. 

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION:  From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3. 

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.

Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 – 10, skipping the steps to gather the top edge of the Skirt before stitching to the Bodice. Before attaching the invisible zip, stitch or serge the three Skirt layers together. Treat them as one throughout. 

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 11 to 13 for hemming options. You will need to hem all three Skirt layers.  

NOTE – As this is a very circular skirt you may find it easier to follow step 11.1. Then stitch in place and press. Then fold another ⅓ inch and pin. Stitch and press.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings, labels and notches to the fabric using a fabric ink pen or tailors chalk.

Zipper End

Mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker where the zipper will end on the Center Back Skirt seam.

Staystitch the Front Skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Stitch in the same direction of the arrows in the photo (from the center front towards the shoulders) 

NOTE – If you haven’t heard of it before, staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.  Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the Bodice.

Staystitch the two Back Skirt pieces in the direction of the arrows.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay a Front Skirt piece wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the Three Tiered Skirt.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave the threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

Carefully press the darts toward the outside edge of the Skirt.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 for the dart on the other side and both darts on each Back Skirt piece.  

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance down each side seam. Repeat for opposite side seam. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use French seams for the side seams. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  Follow the steps below.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Back Skirt to the Front Skirt, along the side seams.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim the seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat for the opposite side seam.

From the main pattern tutorial, follow step 1 to staystitch the Bodice, and step 2 for optional interlining. 

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION:  From the main pattern tutorial follow step 3. 

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow step 4.

Then follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 to 10, skipping the steps to gather the top edge of the Skirt before stitching it to the Bodice.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the two back pieces for Tier 1 right sides together and stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side seam.  Repeat for Tier 2 side seams.  Gather Tier 2 to match the first.  Serge with a ½ inch seam allowance.  Gather Tier 1 to match the bottom edge of the Skirt.  Serge with a ½ inch seam allowance.  Skip to step 7.  

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will use French seams for the Tiers.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Tier 1 together at one side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half to neaten the seam.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat for the second side seam to complete Tier 1. 

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.5 for Tier 2.  

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top edge of Tier 2.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

Mark the quarter points on the gathered edge of Tier 2 and the bottom edge of Tier 1.

Place Tier 1 inside Tier 2, matching the marked edges. Tier 1 will be upside down. Match the quarter points with the folds of the French seams laying in the opposite direction at the seams. Pin.

Gently pull the bobbin threads between each quarter point. Even out the gathers and pin in place all around.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Remove the gathering stitches.

Pull Tier 1 up through Tier 2 and press the seam allowance up.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.11 to attach Tier 1 to the Skirt.

To finish the seams between each Tier, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch. 

If you wish to do either of these, do this now.

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind the edge using bias tape.

Align the fold on the right side of your bias tape with the seam on the wrong side of the skirt and on the ruffle side of the seam. Don’t align the edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of the ruffle. Keep the fold of the bias tape aligned with the seam on the ruffle.

Pin the bias tape all the way along the seam line of the ruffle and overlap the bias where you started of about ½ inch.

Trim the excess bias tape.

Stitch in place by stitching along the fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the ruffle seam.

Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges. 

Edge stitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the dress under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the ruffle.

OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the ruffle ¼ inch from the seam so that it lays flat against the garment.

Pull Tier 1 up through the Tier 2 and press the binding up.

FIT CHECK – Try the dress on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 11 to 13 for hemming options.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

From the main pattern tutorial, follow the preparation step, step 1 to staystitch, and step 2 for optional interlining. 

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION:  From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 3.1 to 3.7. 

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 4.1 to 4.3. 

NOTE – You can only add the Center Front Panel with the Shoulder Ruffle. The Ruffle overlaps at the armscye side seam which adds a little coverage.

Starting at the point, run two rows of gathering stitches along each edge of the Ruffle, ending at the point on the other side.

Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

Align one long edge of the Ruffle along the outer edge of the main Bodice, right sides together. Match the straight point of the Ruffle to the Bodice seam.

Gently pull on both bobbin threads to gather the Ruffle, until the Ruffle matches up with the Bodice.

Spread the gathered stitches out gently with your fingers so that it is evenly gathered.

Fold the Ruffle in half length ways, wrong sides together. 

Gather the second edge of the Ruffle to match the Bodice edge. 

Baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – If you haven’t done basting before, it is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that you can remove them later, if needed. The idea is that you stitch within the seam allowance, so you don’t see the basting stitch in the final garment, but you want them to be loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until you get to the point of stitching that section properly. Set your machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure you can easily remove it later. Do not back stitch at either end. Leave the ends loose and leave approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of your stitching.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for the second Ruffle.

Follow step 2.6 for the Plunge Neckline Option or skip to step 2.7 for the Modesty Panel Option.

PLUNGE NECKLINE OPTION: Follow steps 3.8 to 3.12 from the main pattern tutorial to complete the Bodice. The Ruffle will be sandwiched between the main and Bodice lining.

MODESTY PANEL OPTION: Follow steps 4.6 to 4.14 from the main pattern tutorial. Then continue from step 4.19 to complete the Bodice. The Ruffle will be sandwiched between the main and Bodice lining.

Follow step 5 from the main pattern for the Waistband.

Complete your Dress/Jumpsuit with your chosen Skirt/Trouser, following step 6 (midi/maxi skirt) or step 7 (maxi skirt with godets) from the main instructions, or Options A-E above.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 8 to 10.

FIT CHECK – Try the Dress/Jumpsuit on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then from the main pattern tutorial, choose between steps 11 to 13 for hemming options.