ADD-ON Women's The Patsy Party Dress

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Staystitch the Front Trouser, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows. 

Staystitch the Back Trouser, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Pattern Markings

• Transfer the pattern markings for the darts to the Back Trouser pieces.
• Mark where the zipper will end on the trouser back rise. Find the center back seam and measure down 9 inches for sizes XXS-XL, 8 inches for size XXL-3XL and 7.5 inches for sizes 4XL-5XL and mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay one of the Back Trouser pieces wrong side up on your ironing board.  

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

Press the dart toward the side seams.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the other dart on the second Back Trouser piece.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 and 2 for the bodice and bodice lining. Follow step 3 for OPTIONAL interlining. Follow step 4 for OPTIONAL boning. Follow step 5 for OPTIONAL gathered shoulder straps. Follow step 6 to attach the bodice and bodice lining. Then follow step 3 below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides of the Front Trousers together, serge the center front seam using a ½ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the trousers together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along. Follow the steps below.

With wrong sides of the fabric together (right sides facing out), place the Front Trouser pieces together and pin the center front seam. 

Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half and carefully clip into the curve. 

TIP – The clipping will help the seam lay flat when finished but take care not to go too close to the seam when clipping.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You may notice that the trouser side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the trousers look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the trouser side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your trousers out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the jumpsuit is complete, then hang the jumpsuit from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the trousers is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the trousers together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With the wrong sides together (right sides facing up), pin the Front and Back Trousers together at side seam. 

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing up) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for other side seam.

Follow step 9 from the main pattern instructions to attach the bodice to the trousers.

Follow step 10 from the main pattern instructions to insert the invisible zip into bodice. Steps 10.9 to 10.10 will be sewing the zip to the back rise of the trousers.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the center back seam allowance on each back piece separately (do not remove any seam allowance). Follow steps 7.1 to 7.9. Press the remaining seam allowance below the zipper open. Then skip to step 8.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Fold the Back Trousers right sides together, pulling the zipper tail out of the way and lining up the back rise.

Starting at the open end of the rise, stitch the rise together with a ½ inch seam allowance. Continue to the zipper and extend a few stitches past your stitches from inserting the zipper. 

These stitches may run ever so slightly in front of the other stitch line (⅟₁₆ to ⅛ inch).

We will finish the seam allowance under the zipper and seam allowance below the zipper separately.

From the wrong side of the garment, lift the zipper tail up and clip into the seam allowance on either side of the zipper base close to the stitching (approximately ⅛inch away). This is where the yellow marking is in this photo.

For the section of the seam allowance under the zipper, fold each seam allowance in half towards the zipper tape (not underneath itself like usual, but with the seam allowance folded right sides together). 

Pin the seam allowance to the zipper.

Lay the zipper flat and check that the seam allowance is flat and not bunched anywhere.

Place both legs of the trousers together. Open the zipper so it is flat, and the other side of the zipper is away from the side you are working with.

Stitch the seam allowance to the zipper tape, taking care that you do not catch the other side of the zipper tape or either of the trouser legs in your stitching.

Repeat steps 7.3 to 7.4 for the other side of the zipper tape and other seam allowance.

TIP – Use a walking foot if you have one for this and the rest of the stitching in this step. This foot helps control where you are stitching when sewing through thicker layers like this. Alternatively use your zipper foot if you do not have a walking foot.

There are two ways you could finish the seam below the zipper. You could either use bias tape to enclose the seam allowance, or you could use a “Faux French” finish. Bias tape is the easiest, however, it will create a slight bulk in the crotch seam which won’t be as comfortable while wearing the garment. The alternative is a faux French seam which is what we will do here. If you prefer to use the bias tape method, do this now.

To create the faux French seam, fold the raw edges of the seam allowance in towards the center, so each side of the seam allowance is folded in half right sides together. The raw edges should now be butted up against the zipper tape under the zipper, and meeting at the center back seam below the zipper.

Turn the outside folded edges of each side of the seam allowance into each other so they meet. Press. The seam will now look a little like a French seam, but there is no stitching yet. All the raw edges should now be enclosed.

Stitch close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛inch away). 

Make sure to keep the zipper, and rest of the trousers free. You are only stitching the two sides of the seam allowance together. This will secure the faux French seam and keep the raw edges hidden away. Press to the side.

Where you clipped into the seam allowance at the base of the zipper, tuck the top of the seam allowance over and stitch to the zipper tape (again, keeping the trousers free).

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you would like to use the serger to finish your trouser hem, it’s easiest to serge the ends now before serging the inseam. Serge the raw edges without removing the seam allowance. Then with right sides of the trousers together, serge the crotch seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below:

With wrong sides together stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance. Trim, turn, and press. 

With right sides together, stitch again at ¼ inch.

NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside of the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is enough.

FIT CHECK – Try the jumpsuit on and check for hem length. Make any adjustments you prefer and then continue.

Turn the hem under ¼ inch and press.

Turn the hem under another ¼ inch and press. The raw edges will now be enclosed in the folds.

Topstitch in place by stitching close to the folded edge.

TIP – You want your stitching to be the same distance from the bottom of the trouser as much as possible so that it looks nice and neat from the outside. To do this, use your presser foot or a marking on your foot plate on your sewing machine to line up your fabric so you get a nice even stitch all the way around.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your jumpsuit a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Repeat for the other trouser leg.

We are going to sew the skirt and attach it to the bodice in the same way the skirt from the main Patsy pattern is attached.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Staystitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the two side fronts, side backs and center back pieces in the direction of the arrows.

Zipper Marking

Mark where the zipper will end on the Center Back skirt pieces. Find the center back seam (the straight edge) and measure down 9 inches for sizes XXS-XL, 8 inches for size XXL-3XL and 7.5 inches for sizes 4XL-5XL and mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 and 2 for the bodice and bodice lining. Follow step 3 for OPTIONAL interlining. Follow step 4 for OPTIONAL boning. Follow step 5 for OPTIONAL gathered shoulder straps. Follow step 6 to attach the bodice and bodice lining.

The skirt has many panels that are attached together. Starting at the middle of the back, the order of the panels is: center back godet to center back panel, center back panel to side back godet, side back godet to side back panel, side back pane to side front panel, side front panel to center front panel, center front panel to side front panel, side front panel to side back panel, side back panel to side back godet, side back godet to center back panel, center back panel to center back godet.

The order of how these panels are attached is important, so that you can get precise points on the top of each godet.

We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt panels together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

NOTE – You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the center back godet to one of the center back panels.

Start stitching ½ inch from the top of the godet, down to the bottom raw edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – Stitching from ½ inch down will help to get a precise point at the top of the godet when we attach it to the other skirt piece.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – Press your seam allowance to one side first.  This makes it a bit easier to get that seam line right in the center of the fold.  

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach the center back godet to the other center back panel.

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the center back panels together from where you started stitching on the godet (½ inch from the top of the godet), up to the zipper mark.

Stitch from the same point ½ inch from the top of the center godet, up to the zipper mark using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge, and press.

TIP –This line of stitching will continue up from where the middle godet stitching ended.

Take the top part of the middle godet and sew a line of zig zag stitches across it. You will be stitching just through the top of the godet and not through the skirt panel. 

Trim off the excess fabric above the zig zag stitching. This will prevent fraying of the fabric.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach the side back godets to the other side of each of the center back panels.

Repeat steps 2.7 to 2.12 to attach the side back godets to the side back panels. 

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach each side back panel to each side front panel.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to attach each side front panel to each side of the Center Front Skirt.

Your skirt will now be one full piece.

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 9.

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 10.

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 11.

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 12.

From the main pattern tutorial follow step 13 or step 14 if you are using horsehair braid.

We are going to sew the skirt and attach it to the bodice in the same way the skirt from the main Patsy pattern is attached.

• Transfer the markings for the pleats on the front pattern pieces, and the darts from the back pieces. 
• Mark where the zipper will end on the Center Back skirt pieces. Find the center back seam (the straight edge) and measure down 9 inches for sizes XXS-XL, 8 inches for size XXL-3XL and 7.5 inches for sizes 4XL-5XL and mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.
• Sew the bodice from the original pattern. 

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Staystitch the two back skirt pieces at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

NOTE – The front skirt will be stay stitched after the front pleats have been basted.

With the front skirt right side up, match the pattern marking on the side seam to pattern marking on the first pleat, placing them right sides together. 

Turn the skirt over, wrong side facing up, and fold the pleat toward the center of the skirt and pin in place.

Repeat step 1.1 using the next two pattern markings to make a second pleat.

Repeat step 1.1 and 1.2 for the other side of the skirt.

You should now have 4 pleats (2x mirror image pairs).

Baste along the top of the pleats using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Normally you baste inside the seam allowance, however for these pleats it is important to baste at ½ inch to ensure that the pleats lay correctly.

NOTE – The pleats were drafted with a drape towards the hip. We don’t suggest pressing them flat but if you feel you need to you can press the top and just steam the pleats so that it still drapes and doesn’t sit flat.

Staystitch the front skirt at the waist, starting at the center stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it.

Lay a back piece wrong side up on your ironing board.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately with your fabric. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board.

NOTE – The images shown are for illustrative purposes only. This is not the pattern piece for the pencil skirt.

Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.  

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.  

Draw the dart, in between the corner points, using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

TIP – To get a very neat dart without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads to approximately ½ inch long.

Repeat steps 2.1 and 2.2 for the dart on the other back skirt piece.

Carefully press your waist darts toward the outside edge of the skirt.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the front skirt and one back skirt together. Pin down the side seam and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other back skirt. Press the seams to the back. Leave the back skirt open. Then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the skirt pieces together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin one of the back skirts to the front skirt along the side seam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

Press.

This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 for the other side seam.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 and 2 for the bodice and bodice lining. Follow step 3 for OPTIONAL interlining. Follow step 4 for OPTIONAL boning. Follow step 5 for OPTIONAL gathered shoulder straps. Follow step 6 to attach the bodice and bodice lining.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the outer bodice and the skirt right sides together and pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. From the main pattern tutorial follow from steps 9.3 to 10. Sew the center back seam following step 11, stopping at the top of the kick pleat. Then follow step 12. Skip to step 6 below.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

With the right sides together, pin the bottom edge of the outer bodice to the top edge of the skirt, matching the side seams and markings. 

Stitch using a ½ seam allowance.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the gathering threads.

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out.

From the main pattern tutorial follow from steps 9.3 to 10. Sew the center back seam following step 11, stopping at the top of the kick pleat. Then follow step 12.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the edge of the kick pleat. Then turn under ½ inch, press, and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other side of the kick pleat. Then skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

Finish the edge of the kick pleat by folding the edge ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ¼ inch and topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side of the skirt.

Take each side of the kick pleat and pin right sides together.

Run a basting stitch starting 1 inch down from the center back seam stitching. The basting stitch should go straight down from the center back seam stitching line.

Stitch approximately 1 inch above the end of your center back seam until you reach the top of your basting stitches. Pivot and sew across the top of the kick pleat. Remember to back stitch at the start and end of your stitching.

With the wrong side of the skirt facing up, fold the kick pleat to the right and press.

You will now be basting the top of your kick pleat to the skirt. Baste directly on top of the stitching from step 6.4. 

Make sure that the front of the skirt is moved out of the way, and you are only sewing through the back of the skirt.

NOTE – These basting stitches will be used as a guide when we sew from the right side in the next step.

From the right side of the skirt, stitch directly over the basting stitches, created in step 6.6, across the top of the kick pleat.

Remove all your basting stitches.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem edge. Then turn under 1 inch, press, and topstitch in place.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow along below.

Open out the kick pleat and then fold the hem of the skirt to the wrong side ½ inch and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch along the folded edge.

OPTIONAL – If you would like to create an invisible hem, we recommend a blind hem. This will give your evening gown a professional finish. You can sew this by hand or if your sewing machine has the correct sewing stitch and blind hem foot, you can sew the hem by machine.

Fold the kick pleat back and use a slipstitch to sew the kick pleat to the hem. 

Your fabric will be folded under ½ inch and you will be stitching along the folded edge.

Insert the needle in the edge of the kick pleat.

Insert the needle into the hem, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut. 

Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the kick pleat and pull the thread through. Continue to stitch along, alternating from the kick pleat and the hem. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.

When you reach the end of the skirt, knot the thread.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the bodice won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment, before we attach it to the bodice.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed. 

Staystitch the Center Front Skirt at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the two side fronts, two side backs and two center back pieces in the direction of the arrows.

Zipper Marking

Mark where the zipper will end on the Center Back skirt pieces. Find the center back seam (the straight edge) and measure down 9 inches for sizes XXS-XL, 8 inches for size XXL-3XL and 7.5 inches for sizes 4XL-5XL and mark with a pin, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 1 to 7.

NOTE – You may notice that the skirt side seams are not identical lengths. The panel edge which is cut on the grainline will be slightly longer on the pattern piece than the edge that is cut on the bias. This is because the edge that is cut on the bias will ‘grow’ slightly as it’s stitched and will drop naturally when worn. Having this edge be slightly shorter allows for this and ensures the skirt panels look smooth and there’s no ‘baggy’ or puckered seams. 

That said, some fabric types will stretch more along the grainline than others. If you find when lining up your fabric that the skirt side seams are not the same lengths, pin or clip them together at the top (waist) edge, then hang them and pin the seam while it is hanging. Stitch as normal, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you sew to avoid puckering or bagginess along the seamline.

You may find in doing this that your hemline is uneven. If it’s only a small difference, after stitching your seam, lay your skirt out on a flat surface and trim to smooth the seam. If it is a large difference, leave this until the dress is complete, then hang the dress from a hanger for at least 2-3 hours so any stretching of the skirt is complete. Then trim the hemline so it is even.

From the main pattern tutorial follow steps 9 to 14.

Complete your dress or jumpsuit first as per the option you are following. Then when it is finished, continue on to sew your shrug.

Apply a snap to the main fabric (outer layer) of your shrug along the short edge, following the instructions provided with your snaps.

TIP – With the bodice on your model try the shrug piece on to find the best placement.

It needs to be positioned so that it will match up with its matching snap on the exterior side of the fabric (e.g., on the right side of the fabric, not on the wrong side).

NOTE – If you are using sew-on snaps you may want to do this after step 2.

Apply the other half of the snap to the bodice lining just below the top corner of the bodice.

Repeat step 1.1 and 1.2 for the other side of your shrug and bodice.

With right sides together, pin the lining to the main fabric all around the outside edges of the shrug.

NOTE – The lining is slightly smaller than the outer fabric. 

Stitch around the outside edge using a ½ inch seam allowance leaving a 3 inch gap for turning.

TIP – After pinning around the outside edge, mark the gap with 2 pins to remember where to leave a gap for turning.

Clip into the seam allowance along the curved edge. This will help the curved edge lie flat. Be careful not to snip through the stitches.

Turn the shrug right side out through the open gap. With the lining facing up press the shrug.

TIP – Use a pressing cloth over your shrug. You may have delicate fabric that could be damaged when ironing.  A pressing cloth will protect your fabric.

You will be using a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the gap closed. This type of stitch allows you to close the shrug without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside. 

NOTE – You will have sewn this type of stitch when sewing your bodice to your lining.

Fold your fabric under ½ inch. You will be stitching along the folds.

TIP – Use a thread that matches your fabric. We are using a contrasting thread so that you can see the stitches.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push your needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the shrug to outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between 1/8 – ¼ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch. 

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads. Press if needed.