Babies’ Ruffle Bum

Ruffles

If you had to cut your Ruffle pieces in smaller sections to get the full length, stitch them together using a French seam (see steps 4.2 to 4.4 as to how to do this). 

Alternatively, if you have a serger or overlocker you can serge them right sides together.

Bias Binding

If you are not using store bought binding, you will need to create double fold binding to bind the diaper cover.

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then, skip to step 2.

ROLLED HEM OPTION – use a sewing machine or serger/Overlocker to create a rolled hem. Try this on scrap fabric first to check how much seam allowance your roll hem uses. If it’s ½ inch, then roll hem each ruffle piece. If it’s only ¼ inch, then trim ¼ inch off first. 

TIP – A great look is to serge a narrow rolled hem in a contrasting color!

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Turn the hem on the bottom of a Ruffle over to the wrong side approximately ¼ inch all the way around and press. 

Fold again approximately ¼ inch. Press and pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for all Ruffle pieces.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no locking stitch at the beginning or end and a loose bobbin tension. Stitch close to the edge all the way along each of your ruffle pieces leaving long threads at either end for you to gather with later. Stitch again approx. 3/4 inch from the edge on each ruffle piece.

TIP – stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different color thread for the bobbin, it makes finding the two matching threads to gather later much easier. The gathering stitches will be pulled out and discarded so it doesn’t matter what color they are. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those random thread colors you have left over from other projects. 

ALTERNATIVE – If you have one, you could use a ruffler foot to attach the Ruffle. If you do this, you can skip steps 2.1 to 2.7. Remember to place it upside down and right side down so you can fold it over and top stitch in step 2.9.

Fold each of your Ruffle pieces in half and mark the center point with a pin. Then fold the Back of the diaper cover in half and mark with a pin the center back along the waistline.

We are now going to mark how far up we want the lowest row of Ruffles to start. For the exact look in the photos, measure 2 inches up from the leg line and mark with a pin. Repeat on the other edge of the diaper cover so both sides are marked.

NOTE – This first Ruffle will be bottom of the three Ruffles.

ALTERNATIVE – If you would like a different look to the one in the photo, you can place the Ruffles higher or lower.

Place your bottom Ruffle upside down onto your diaper cover with the fabric right side down. Your diaper cover should be right side up. Place it so the top of the Ruffle is lined up with the pins you just placed in step 2.3. 

Pin a third time in the center of the Ruffle, matching the center of the ruffle with the center of the diaper cover, using the center points you marked out in step 2.2.

Find the two bobbin threads on one end of the Ruffle. Very gently pull on both threads equally to gather the Ruffle. If you used a different color bobbin thread to your top thread, you’ll know you have the top two threads because they’ll be a different color to the bottom two ones. 

Continue to gather the Ruffle across the fabric until it sits flat against the diaper cover. You will need to gently ease the gathering, so it is even. Make sure it is sitting horizontally and pin in place. The ruffle will be pointing up the diaper cover, right side down. Stitch in between the two rows of gathering stitches.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of gathering thread so that they come all the way through the Ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the Ruffle and pull this out too. 

TIP – You may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

Carefully trim the raw edges of the Ruffle so that there are no loose threads and it’s all even and neat. 

Be very careful to keep the diaper cover fabric away from your scissors… the last thing you want when you’re nearly finished is a big hole in it!

Turn the Ruffle over so it is the correct way up. Press and pin the top of the Ruffle to the diaper cover from the right side of the fabric. Carefully stitch all the way along so the raw edge underneath is now encased (approximately ⅛ inch from the edge). 

Go slowly and press the fabric down with your fingers as you stitch to make sure the Ruffle stays even. Make sure not to get your fingers too close though!

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 with the second row of Ruffles to prepare and pin it in the right place.

This time measure ¾ inch up from the first row and this is where you place the Ruffle. Remember to place the Ruffle upside down, and right side down.

Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.7 to gather and stitch the second Ruffle to the diaper cover and remove the gathering stitches.

Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.9 to trim the second ruffle’s seam allowance, fold the Ruffle right way up and stitch close to the edge (approximately ⅛ inch).

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 to attach the third (top) Ruffle, again placing it ¾ inch above the second Ruffle.

Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.7 to gather and stitch the third ruffle to the diaper cover and remove the gathering stitches. 

Again, repeat steps 2.8 to 2.9 to trim the seam allowance, fold the Ruffle right way up and stitch close to the edge.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Instead of doing a French seam here, you can serge/overlock the side seams. Make sure the fabric is wrong sides together if you do this. Then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to sew the side seams. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.

Pin the raw edges of all three Ruffles down at the side seam. Baste using approximately ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching. 

This will hold the Ruffle in place so that it stays out of the side seams.

Place the Front onto the Back wrong sides together (right sides out). Pin the side seams together. 

Stitch approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

Carefully trim both seam allowances so the raw edges are clean and don’t have any uneven threads.

NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.  

Turn the diaper cover inside out and press the side seams. Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Turn the diaper cover right way out again. Pin the crotch seam together. 

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. 

NOTE – The back of the crotch is longer than the front so you’ll have to lift the back up a bit to meet the front (as shown in the photo).

Carefully trim the seam allowance so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.

Turn the diaper cover inside out and press the crotch seam. Pin and stitch again ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Fold the waist edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. 

TIP – Turning over the hem and creating the casing can be tricky depending on your fabric & iron. To make it easier go slowly and stretch the fabric slightly as you iron it. If you have a fabric with a bit of give, you’ll find this step easy as pie. If not, or if you are making one of the smaller sizes and find you simply can’t get it folded over without wrinkles, try first to pin it without ironing. If that doesn’t help, try to make any folds or tucks into lots of little “wrinkles”, rather than a big fold. You will be elasticizing this bit later so it’s not likely to be very visible and spreading any excess fabric out helps keep it hidden.

Fold a second time approximately ½ inch this time. Press and pin. Then stitch close to the edge most of the way around but stop before the beginning again leaving a gap of approximately ½ inch. This will create a casing so you can feed the elastic through to gather it later on.

Start with one leg hole and one piece of bias binding. Slip the bias tape over the raw edge of the leg hole so it encases it. Pin it all the way around the leg hole, stopping when you get back to the beginning. You should have approximately 1 inch more than you need to go all the way around.

On the bit of bias binding that overhangs, fold the raw edge under ½ inch and press it under. By doing this you will undo some of your folds in the bias binding. Once the raw edge is tucked inside the bias tape, re-press these folds back in so it looks normal again but with a folded (rather than raw) edge.

Then trim a small part of the corners of the inside part of the bias binding off. This is so they are neatly hidden away inside.

Slip the overhanging edge of the bias binding you have been working on over the leg hole, so it covers the start of your binding. All raw edges on the leg should now be hidden.

Stitch most of the way around the bias binding close to the edge. 

Leave a gap of ½ inch somewhere around the leg hole for you to later feed your elastic into. The bias binding is now your leg hole casing.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 with the other leg hole and the other bias binding strip.

Pin one end of your elastic to the diaper cover securely just below the waistline casing. This stops it slipping into the casing as you feed the elastic through.

Then feed the end of the elastic with the safety pin attached through the little opening you left and all the way around the waistline.

When your safety pin gets back to the beginning, feed it back out of the casing through the same hole. 

Gently ease the fabric around the elastic so it is gathered all the way around the waistline. 

Pin the elastic ends together, letting them overlap by 1 inch.

FIT CHECK: If you have your child available check the fit of the waist elastic. Adjust if needed.

Stitch using a zig zag stitch on your machine several times. Let the elastic slip inside the casing.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 to thread both leg elastics into the leg casings.

Find the gaps you left in the waist and leg casings and stitch them closed. You may need to pull the gathered fabric away from this area in order to be able to stitch without catching any other fabric inadvertently.

NOTE – If you want to be able to lengthen the elastic so that the diaper cover lasts through several sizes with the child, then skip this step. That way you will be able to easily access the elastic to alter or change it.