Baby Elephant Amigurumi

Each of the following stitches will be used in this pattern. The steps will show how to do them step-by-step, but you might prefer to get familiar with them before getting started.

Wrap the yarn around the hook from back to front.

With a slip knot on your hook, yarn over.

Pull your hook down and through the loop on your hook, leaving one loop.

Insert your hook into the top loop. Yarn over.

Pull through the loop of yarn. 

Pull the loop of yarn through the first loop on your hook as well.

Insert your hook into the top loop, yarn over.

Pull the loop of yarn through, yarn over again.

Pull through both loops on your hook.

Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch.

Insert the hook straight into the front loop of the second stitch.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over.

Pull through the loop of yarn. 

Insert your hook into the second stitch, yarn over.

Pull through a loop of yarn. Yarn over.

Pull through all three loops on the hook.

Insert your hook into the back loop of the stitch only.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over, pull through both loops on your hook.

Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over again and pull through all three loops on your hook.

With the end of your yarn laying across the palm of your hand, wrap the yarn around your fingers, crossing the working yarn over the tail end. 

Hold the yarn in place with the thumb of the same hand. The loose end of the working yarn will now be on the left. Turn your hand over and insert your hook under the yarn on the right side.

Hook the working yarn (on the left) and pull it through, under the yarn on the right.

Twist the hook as you bring the loop through.

Carefully take the loop off your fingers and work a chain to secure the loop. You can then continue to work as many chains as the pattern calls for.

Leaving a tail (around 4-5 inches long) of yarn at the front of your hand, wrap the yarn loosely, around your first finger. Wrap the yarn from the front, crossing the yarn at the top of your finger. 

Insert your hook under the yarn on the right side. Hook the yarn on the left, pull it under the yarn on the right, twisting the hook as you pull it through.

Carefully take the knot off your finger. Pull the free end, to tighten the knot.

Pull the working yarn, to tighten the loop on your hook. Now you are ready to work.

Finish off by cutting the yarn and pulling the end through the loop on the hook. Pull this tight, to stop the stitches unravelling.

The pattern also includes hand sewing techniques. We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands. 

Thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

On the inside of one of the fabric pieces, put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric. 

Pull the thread almost all the way to the knot. Stop pulling, split the thread close to the knot creating a gap then slip the needle through the gap. 

Pull the thread taut. The thread should now be knotted to the fabric.

NOTE – Tying the thread to the fabric this way will prevent the knot from coming through the fabric as you stitch.

Put the needle through to the right side or underside of the fabric depending on which side of the fabric the needle needs to be on for the next step.

A running stitch is a straight line of stitches created by pushing the needle and thread through the fabric without back stitching. These stitches can be far apart or closer together. This stitch will be seen on both sides of your fabric.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

From the inside of the fabric, push the needle to the underside of the fabric, pulling the thread all the way through the fabric.

Moving the needle about ⅛ inch to ¼ inch forward, insert the needle from the underside of the fabric and pull the thread to the right side.

Move the needle forward about ⅛ to ¼ inch and then put the needle back into the fabric at about the same distance, ⅛ to ¼ inch from where you brought the needle up. 

TIP – Instead of stitching each Running Stitch individually, the stitches can be taken more than one at a time by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. This makes Running Stitches quick to sew.

Repeat the stitches across until the desired length is reached. 

Backstitches are used for outlining or adding fine detail. 

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole as step 3.2, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.4 creating a length of backstitches as desired.

We use a whipstitch when sewing felt as it is an easy way to stitch flat seams, encasing the seam allowances in the stitching.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

TIP – To make the stitches even, mark your finger with lines ⅛ to ¼ inch apart. Use this to line up your stitches, matching the distance on your finger.

Put the needle through one of the pieces of the fabric so it comes out on the right side of the fabric about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from the edge. Then bring the needle over both pieces of fabric and insert it into the fabric ⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge. Pull the needle through to the underside of the fabric.

Move the needle back over both pieces of fabric and put the needle back into the fabric about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from where it came up. Be sure to go through both layers. Pull the needle all the way through to the wrong side of the fabric and pull the thread taut. 

Repeat all the way around.

These stitches are created without looping or crossing your thread. They can be used to create broken or unbroken lines or starbursts, fill shapes and create geometric designs.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Insert the needle from the wrong side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start stitching. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ to ¼ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up to the right side about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from the last stitch, this will create a space between the first stitch. Pull the thread all the way through to the right side.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 creating the desired number of straight stitches in the desired pattern.

NOTE – It is advisable to read through each step, before you start crocheting, to ensure that you understand the step fully.

NOTE – Some sections of this pattern use chain one and slip stitch. These do not count in the stitch numbers given, for each row or round.

TIP – As with all amigurumi projects, you will get the best result, if you keep your crochet stitches tight and even.

Sample Square 

If you are a beginner, or are substituting with a different weight yarn, it may be helpful to work a sample square, to check your gauge is correct, for this pattern. You can try working with a larger or smaller hook size if your gauge needs adjusting.

This is crocheted in continuous rounds, in a spiral, that is not joined. You then increase or decrease the number of stitches, to shape the body.

With Pale pink yarn, make a magic ring.

Work six single crochets into the magic ring and pull the starting tail end to close. Put a stitch marker into the last stitch made and move this, to the last stitch of each round, as you work. This helps you to keep track of the rounds you work; in case you need to undo any (6 stitches).

Work two single crochets into each stitch around (12 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (18 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next two stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (24 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next three stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (30 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next four stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (36 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next five stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (42 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next six stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (48 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next seven stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (54 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for nine rounds (54 stitches per round).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next seven stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (48 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for two rounds (48 stitches per round).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next six stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (42 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for three rounds (42 stitches per round).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next five stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (36 stitches).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next four stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (30 stitches).

Now pause crocheting, to fill the Body. 

OPTIONAL WEIGHT – If you would like to add weight into the Body, start by adding ¼ inch depth of poly plastic pellets into the bottom of the body. 

TIP – If you want to make the elephant into a paper weight, you will need to add significantly more pellets. 

Then fill the rest of the Body with toy stuffing.

TIP – When adding stuffing, you will get the best finish if you are careful not to over stuff. Over stuffing can distort the shape of the Body, and may stretch the stitches, meaning that the stuffing inside is visible.

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next three stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (24 stitches).

Finish off and remove the stitch marker. 

Top up the stuffing, if needed and weave in the finishing tail.

This is crocheted in continuous rounds, in a spiral, that is not joined. You then increase or decrease the number of stitches and use different sized stitches, to shape the trunk and head.

NOTE – When you start crocheting the Trunk, it may want to curl inside out. After the first few rounds, you can push it the right way out, and continue crocheting.

With pale pink yarn, make a magic ring.

Work six single crochets into the magic ring and pull the starting tail end to close. Put a stitch marker into the last stitch made and move this, to the last stitch of each round, as you work (6 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next stitch. 

Repeat this pattern three times (9 stitches).

Work one single crochet, through the back loop only, into each stitch around (9 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for six rounds (9 stitches per round).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next two stitches.

Repeat this pattern three times in total (12 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first six stitches, then one half double crochet, into the remaining six stitches (12 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next stitch. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (18 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first nine stitches, then one half double crochet, into the remaining nine stitches (18 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet, into the next two stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (24 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first twelve stitches of the round. 

Work two single crochets into the next stitch, then one single crochet into the following stitch. 

Repeat the two single crochets, one single crochet pattern six times in total (30 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (30 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet, into the next stitch. 

Repeat this pattern fifteen times in total (45 stitches).

Pause crocheting here, to add the eyes. Fold the head flat, in half. Count two stitches in from the folded edge, between the single crochet stitches of the last 2 rounds crocheted.

Push the shank of a safety eye through this space. 

Repeat on the other side. 

When you are happy that your eyes are positioned evenly, push the backs onto the eye shanks, to secure them.

Alternatively, if you are adding felt eyes, hand stitch these in place.

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (45 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first twenty-five stitches of the round.

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the next two stitches, then one single crochet into the following two stitches. 

Repeat the one single crochet invisible decrease, into the next two stitches, then one single crochet into the following two stitches pattern five times in total (40 stitches).

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next four stitches. 

Repeat this pattern eight times in total (48 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for five rounds (48 stitches per round).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next six stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (42 stitches).

Pause crocheting here to fill the Trunk and Head. 

Take your piece of pipe cleaner and fold it in half. Twist it a few times. 

Push this into the top edge of the Trunk. 

Hold this in place, while you add stuffing, underneath, to fill the rest of the Trunk. The pipe cleaner should then be held in place. 

Fill the rest of the Head with stuffing.

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (42 stitches).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next five stitches.

Repeat this pattern six times in total (36 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (36 stitches).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next four stitches. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (30 stitches).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next three stitches.

Repeat this pattern six times in total (24 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (24 stitches). 

Add some more stuffing into the Head.

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the next two stitches.

Repeat this pattern six times in total (18 stitches).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease, into the first two stitches, the one single crochet into the next stitch. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (12 stitches).

Work one single crochet invisible decrease into each pair of stitches around (6 stitches).

Finish off, leaving a six-inch tail of yarn and remove the stitch marker. 

Thread a needle onto the tail you left.

Use the yarn to weave in and out of the six stitches left, at the back of the Head. Pull the yarn, to gather the stitches and close the gap. Tie off and weave in the remaining tail.

Bend the elephant Trunk to point upwards.

These are made in increasing and decreasing rows. Then an edging is worked.

With pale pink yarn, chain eight.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each stitch of the row (7 stitches). 

Turn your work.

Chain one. 

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next five stitches, then two single crochets into the last stitch (9 stitches). 

Turn.

Chain one. 

Work one single crochet into each stitch of the row (9 stitches).

Chain one. 

Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next seven stitches, then two single crochets into the last stitch (11 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch of the row, for three rows (11 stitches per row).

Chain one. Skip the first stitch and put a stitch marker into the skipped stitch. 

Work one single crochet into the next nine stitches. Skip the last stitch and add a stitch marker again (9 stitches).

NOTE – For the next few rows, you will be repeating this stitch skipping. Add a stitch marker at the beginning and end of each row, into the skipped stitches. This will help you remember where these stitches are, when you come to work around the edge of the ear.

Chain one. 

Skip the first stitch, work one single crochet into the next seven stitches, then skip the last stitch (7 stitches).

Chain one. 

Skip the first stitch, work one single crochet into the next five stitches, then skip the last stitch (5 stitches).

Chain one. 

Skip the first stitch, work one single crochet into the next three stitches, then skip the last stitch (3 stitches). 

Finish off.

Join the same yarn, at the top, left corner of the Ear. To do this, insert your hook into the stitch, and put a slip knot of the new yarn onto the end of the hook. Slip the yarn through to the front and chain one.

Now you are going to crochet around the edge of the ear, working into the row ends and the stitches that were skipped. Doing this will create a nice, smooth, rounded shape to the Ear. 

Work one single crochet into each row end, along the left side of the Ear. When you reach a stitch marker, remove it, and work a single crochet into this space (11 stitches). 

Work one single crochet into each stitch across the bottom (3 stitches), then finish by working one single crochet into each stitch moving up the right side of the Ear, as you did on the left side (11 stitches).

Finish off and weave all the tail ends into the back side of the Ear.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.13 to create a second Ear.

The Daisy center is made in joined rounds that start with a chain and join with a slip stitch.

The petals are made individually, in increasing and decreasing rows. Then an edging is worked around all of them, together.

With the very pale-yellow yarn, make a magic ring.

Work five single crochets into the ring and pull the starting tail end to close. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet made, to join the round (5 stitches).

Chain one. 

Work two single crochets into each stitch around and slip stitch to join (10 stitches). 

Finish off.

Join the white yarn, (as in step 3.11) in the next stitch, to the left, from where you finished off. 

Work one single crochet into the first two stitches, moving from right to left. The first single crochet is made into the same space as the chain one (2 stitches). 

Turn your work.

Chain one.

Work two single crochets into both stitches and turn (4 stitches).

Chain one. 

Work one single crochet into each stitch across and turn (4 stitches).

Chain one. 

Work one single crochet two together, twice (2 stitches).

Finish off.

On the left side of the petal you have just made, join the same yarn, (as in step 3.11) in the next available stitch. 

Repeat steps 4.4 to 4.7, four more times. You will then have a daisy with five petals.

Weave all the tail ends into the back of the flower.

You are now going to crochet around the outside of the Daisy, in the same way as you did with the Ears. 

Join the white yarn again, in the bottom right corner stitch, of any petal.

Work one single crochet into each row end, moving up the right side of the petal (4 stitches). 

Work one single crochet into both stitches of the petal top, then one single crochet into the ends of the rows down the left side (4 stitches).

Moving on, work a single crochet, straight into the bottom right stitch of the next petal, and work up the right side, as before (in step 4.11).

Repeat the edging around all the petals, then slip stitch into the first single crochet, at the start.

Finish off and weave in the tails.

Hold the Head and measure 1.5 inches from the Eye, horizontally, and very slightly diagonally, upwards (towards the back of the Head). Insert a pin here. 

Measure 1 inch from this pin, straight across, horizontally (again moving towards the back of the head). Add another pin at this point.

Repeat step 5.1 on the other side of the Head. 

NOTE – Check that this looks even on both sides.

Pin the Ears onto the Head, where you have marked, with the pins. 

TIP – Add a few extra pins to keep the Ears in place.

Cut a length of pale pink yarn. Leave a tail approximately 3 inches long, after tying a knot.

Sew the Ears onto the Head using whipstitches. Start one row down from the top edge, on either side of the Ear. 

Bring the needle up, from underneath, then stitch through the nearest single crochet on the Head. 

Work through the first stitch along the top edge of the Ear, then through the nearest stitch, on the Head again. 

Repeat this technique, across the rest of the top row, then through the first stitch, on the other side of the Ear.

Remove the pins, tie off the yarn and weave both tails into the underside of the Ear.

Repeat steps 5.4 to 5.6 for the second Ear.

Position the Daisy, on the right side of the elephant’s Head, at the center back, overlapping the top of the right Ear. Pin in place.

Cut a length of very pale-yellow yarn (as in step 5.4). Bring the needle through and up, from the back of the flower.

Sew, with small running stitches, moving around the outer circle of single crochets, made for the Daisy center. As you sew, catch the stitches of the Head, or Ear, that are underneath the flower.

Tie off and weave in the tails, underneath the Daisy.

Cut a length of white yarn, without a long tail and knot the end. Choose which side of the Body will be the side. Find the middle by eye.

Count eight rounds down, from the open top and bring the needle through at this point. Work from the inside of the Body, out.

NOTE – If the Elephant is intended for small children, we suggest doing smaller backstitches instead of the larger stitch. 

Make a very long, straight stitch, down the length of the body, to the center bottom, underneath. 

Then repeat this long stitch, from the bottom, up the other side of the Body. 

Finish the stitch in the center, eight rows down from the top, as you started the first stitch.

Pull both stitches tight, to shape the legs, then tie off the yarn, on the inside of the body.

TIP – Tie the yarn off close to where the stitch has been brought back into the body to prevent puckering. 

Cut a length of pale pink yarn (as in step 5.4). Pin the Head centrally onto the Body. 

TIP – I found that long pins were very helpful here.

Sew around the bottom of the Head, where it meets the Body, using the same whipstitch technique, from step 5.5. 

Work carefully, making sure that the stitches are tight, so that the Head is stable when finished. 

When you have worked back around to the starting tail, tie off and weave in the ends.

Cut three pieces of pale pink yarn, measuring 10 inches each. Fold them in half.

Measure approximately one inch up from the bottom of the Body, centrally, at the back of the elephant. This is where you will attach the Tail.

Using your crochet hook, pull the folded end of the yarns, through one of the crochet stitches, on the body, vertically.

Pull the loop through, to make it large enough, so you are able to bring the yarn tails through the loop.

Pull the tail ends to tighten and secure. 

TIP – This is known as a lark’s head knot.

Separate the strands of yarn into three pairs and plait these together. Start right under the knot at the top and continue until the plait measures 2 inches in length.

To secure the end of the plait, use a short piece of yarn and knot it twice at the bottom. 

Finally, trim the yarn ends to the same length to neaten and the tail is finished.