Progress Menu
x
Home / Craft / Accessories, Garments
This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
1



















Bear Hood Crochet
Member Rating
Difficulty Level

Beginner
Equipment Needed


Description
Crochet this cuddly, cozy, hood and cowl with our Bear Hood Crochet pattern. A great alternative to a hat and scarf, for the cold weather. It has super cute bear ears and an optional drawstring that allows the hood to be tightened around the face. This would make a lovely gift, for a special bear cub in your life.
Instant download digital crochet pattern featuring step-by-step instructions. Includes size S-L.
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- The hood is designed to be loose and relaxed. Crocheted pieces have stretch to them, as such the sizes overlap slightly.
- When choosing your size, if the age or head measurement is on the border between sizes, we recommend:
- Sizing up for a looser fit.
- Sizing down for a snugger fit.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Crochet hook 8 / 5mm
- Large eyed needle or safety pin for inserting drawstring
- Stitch markers, or you can use scraps of yarn instead
- 1x Hood and Cowl
- 2x Bear Ears
- 1x OPTIONAL Drawstring
- Yarn choice depends on the effect you wish to create in your project. Apart from the color, there is fiber and weight options to consider.
- Wool, wool blends and acrylic yarns are warm and tend to have a fluffier finish. These are perfect for making cozy clothing, soft furnishings, hats, gloves etc. They are also great for soft toys that are designed to be cuddly.
- Cotton and cotton blend yarns have a smooth finish. This is good for small details and is especially popular for amigurumi patterns. It is ideal for pieces that are likely to be sucked or chewed by small children. Cotton is also cooler and lighter so is a good choice for warmer weather clothes.
- Yarn weights range from very thin and lacy, right up to ribbon style yarns, cord, and rope. Again, your choice here will depend on your project. Thinner weight yarns will give a delicate effect, so would be ideal for doilies, lacy details, or small, intricate pieces. Chunky, thick yarns, such as cord, are a brilliant choice for projects like storage baskets, rugs, and plant holders. They work up quickly on a large project and are very sturdy and hardwearing.
- Many patterns will still work well with a substituted yarn, even if that yarn is a different weight, however, there will be a difference in the size and finish of your completed work, in comparison to the pattern sample.
- When buying yarn, you can find a lot of details, including weight and fiber content, on the band around the yarn, or on the product details page (if buying online). Retailers will sometimes give examples of what that particular yarn is most suitable for, along with recommended hook sizes, however, hook sizes in patterns may vary from those recommended. This is done to create the right effect for that project, which may require a tighter or looser gauge than the suggested hook would provide. If in doubt, follow the hook size recommended in the pattern.
- If you do not have the suggested weight of yarn for the pattern you want to complete, you can use multiple strands of thinner yarns to make up the desired weight. For example, two strands of 4 ply yarn can be crocheted together, like one strand, to make 8 ply yarn. If you do this, you will need to work some sample swatches, with different hook sizes, to ensure that you can match the gauge in your pattern correctly.
Project OverviewBear Hood
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Crochet this cuddly, cozy, hood, and cowl. A great alternative to a hat and scarf, for the cold weather. It has super cute bear ears, and an optional drawstring that allows the hood to be tightened around the face. This would make a lovely gift, for a special bear cub in your life.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Crochet
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below.
Age Head Circumference Inches CM S 1 to 4 years 17 to 19 43 to 48 M 5 to 8 years 19 to 21 48 to 53 L 9 to 12+ years 21 to 23 53 to 58 Finished Measurements (Inches)
Height Width (laid flat – half width)
Width (ear to ear)
Small 12.0 8.5 17.0 Medium 12.5 9.5 19.0 Large 13.0 10.5 21.0 Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsYarn – Acrylic, or an acrylic blend is the recommended fiber of yarn for this pattern. This will be a warm and soft yarn for next to the skin. The pieces are made and stitched together, with 10 ply acrylic aran/worsted weight.
NOTE – The details listed below, give details of the weight and yardage, as sold. However, you will need approximately 150g of yarn for the small and medium sizes. And approximately 200g for the large size.
We have suggested colors to use. If you would like to use the same colors, follow the information listed below and throughout the tutorial. If you would prefer to use different colors, feel free to do so.
Recommended Colors Qty Colors used in tutorial Bear Cub Winter Hood 100% Acrylic Aran/worsted weight/10ply
Light Brown 1x 3.5oz / 100g ball, 201 yds Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran Color 208
Mid Brown 1x 3.5oz / 100g ball, 201 yds Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran Color 209
You will also need:
Tools needed are pins/clips, optional long pins, needles (darning and sewing), scissors and optional stitch marker.
Printing Your PatternThe instructions are designed for everyone from beginner upwards, so there are a LOT of pictures throughout the instructions. For this reason, some people do not print these in full (however you can if you wish!).
If, however, you want more intermediate / advanced level instructions, with no photos, you can skip straight to the Quick Glance Cheat Sheet in the menu.
Cutting InstructionsThese are the pieces that you will create, throughout the tutorial. You will then attach them, sewing them together, to produce the finished Bear Hood.
Bear Cub Winter Hood:
Fabric TipsYarn Tips
Tips for Choosing the Right Yarn
- + Instructions
- SAMPLE SQUARE – Check the crochet gauge.
- Main Hood – 5mm hook and light brown yarn. Ch50 (60, 70). Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, [sc, dc], skip one ch. Repeat a long length of ch. In the last ch, sc, turn. 49sts, (59sts, 69sts) (These stitch pairs, [sc, dc] form the suzette stitch) Ch 1, [sc, dc], skip 1 stitch. Repeat along the row, sc into the last stitch. Turn. Repeat this row for 22 (24, 28) more rows. Finish off. Leave a tail of approx. 40 inches. Fold the piece in half. Pin/clip the top edge. Use the tail end to whipstitch the top edges together. Border around face – Join the mid brown yarn, in the bottom left corner, of the front of the hood. Ch2, 49 (53, 61) hdc into the row ends, around the front. Then Ch2 (counts as a stitch), and sl st into the corner. Turn. Ch1, 3sc, sc2tog, 8sc, sc2tog, 5sc, sc2tog, 3sc, sc2tog, 5sc, sc2tog, 8sc, sc2tog, 3sc, sc2tog, turn. 42sts (M: ch1, 2sc, sc2tog, 10sc, sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog, 5sc, sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog, 10sc, sc2tog twice, turn. 46sts. L: ch1, 2sc, sc2tog, 15sc, sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog, 3sc, sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog, 15sc, sc2tog twice, turn. 54sts) ch1, 8sc, sc2tog, 22sc, sc2tog, 8sc, don’t turn. 40sts (M: ch1,8sc, sc2tog, 26sc, sc2tog, 8sc, don’t turn. 44sts L: ch1, 8sc, sc2tog, 10sc, sc2tog, 10sc, sc2tog, 10sc, sc2tog, 8sc. Don’t turn. 50sts)
- Cowl – ch 8 (8, 10) sl st into the bottom corner stitch. at the opposite (left) side of the hood. Ch1, 3sc along the row ends of the border. Ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc, around the row ends, (bottom edge of hood). 48sts (58sts 68sts) Then 3sc into the border edges, on the other side. Sc into each chain across, sl st to join round, (slip stitch at the end of all further rounds). 62sts (72sts 84sts) Ch1. 14sc, [sc2tog, 2sc, 6 times] 24sc, turn. 56sts (M: ch1, 17sc, [sc2tog, 2sc] 7 times], 27sc, turn. 65sts L: ch1, 20sc, [sc2tog, 2sc, 9 times], 28sc, turn. 75sts) Ch1, 56 (65 75) sc. Change color to light brown. Ch2, 56 (65 75) hdc. Ch2, hdc, ch1, skip 1, repeat around. (Chains worked during the rounds, count as stitches, here, and for the next few rounds) 56sts (65sts, 75sts) Change color to mid brown. Ch2, hdc, ch1, skip 1, repeat around, for 3 rounds. 56sts (65sts, 75sts) Change color to light brown. Ch2, hdc, ch1, skip 1, repeat around. 56sts (65sts, 75sts) Change color to mid brown. Ch2, 56 (65, 75) hdc. Ch1, 56 (65, 75) sc. Finish off, weave in the ends.
- Bear ears (make 2) – Light brown yarn. Make a magic ring. 6sc, close ring, sl st to join. Ch1, [2sc] 6 times, join. (12 sts) Ch1, sc, [2sc], 6 times, join. (18sts) Ch1, 2sc [2sc] 5 times, 4 sl sts, join. (24sts) ch1, 3sc [2sc] 5 times, 5 sl sts, join. (30sts) ch2, 25hdc, turn. (25sts) change color to mid brown, (leaving a 20-inch tail of light brown yarn). Ch1, 25sc tbl. Finish off. Weave in tails, (except the long one). Repeat for the second ear.
- OPTIONAL Drawstring – Cut 3 lengths of mid brown yarn. 40 (45 50) inches long. Knot at one end. Braid together. Knot at bottom. Trim ends.
- Assembly and Finishing – Attaching ears: 2 inches down from center seam and 2.5 inches across, from where the main hood starts. Pin in place. Use the long tails to whip stitch the ears to the hood. Sew along the front edge of each ear and then the back edge. Inserting the drawstring – thread one end onto wool needle (or safety pin). Start at the bottom of the hood edging, (on either side of face) leave a tail. Thread in and out of the sc stitches, between 2nd and 3rd rows of edging. Weaving through every 2 single crochet stitches. Remove the needle. Adjust tails of drawstring to even out.
Quick Glance Cheat SheetHook Size 8 / 5mm – Test Square 2 inch = 6 stitches x 6 rows
The first stitch numbers listed are for size small. Stitch numbers for sizes medium and large, are in the brackets that follow. If there are no alternative stitch details given, work the same, for all sizes.
Chains don’t count as a stitch unless the pattern indicates.
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . NotesSeam Allowance
Hook Size 8 / 5mm – Test Square 2 inch = 6 stitches x 6 rows
0.1Each of the following stitches will be used in this pattern. The steps will show how to do them step-by-step, but you might prefer to get familiar with them before getting started.
NOTE – This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you typically use patterns using other country’s crochet patterns, please check stitch instructions to make sure you are using the same stitch that is called for in the pattern.
1 . Yarn Over (yo)1.1Wrap the yarn around the hook from back to front.
2 . Chain (ch)2.1With a slip knot on your hook, yarn over.
2.2Pull your hook down and through the loop on your hook, leaving one loop.
3 . Slip Stitch (sl st)3.1Insert your hook into the top loop. Yarn over.
3.2Pull through the loop of yarn.
3.3Pull the loop of yarn through the first loop on your hook as well.
4 . Single Crochet (sc)4.1Insert your hook into the top loop, yarn over.
4.2Pull the loop of yarn through, yarn over again.
4.3Pull through both loops on your hook.
5 . Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)5.1Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over.
5.2Pull through the loop of yarn.
5.3Insert your hook into the second stitch, yarn over.
5.4Pull through a loop of yarn. Yarn over.
5.5Pull through all three loops on the hook.
6 . Single Crochet, Through Back Loop (sc tbl)6.1Insert your hook into the back loop of the stitch only.
6.2Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.
6.3Yarn over, pull through both loops on your hook.
7 . Double Crochet (dc)7.1Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.
7.2Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.
7.3Yarn over again, pull through the first two loops on your hook.
7.4Yarn over a final time and pull through the remaining two loops.
8 . Half Double Crochet (hdc)8.1Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.
8.2Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.
8.3Yarn over again and pull through all three loops on your hook.
9 . Magic Ring9.1With the end of your yarn laying across the palm of your hand, wrap the yarn around your fingers, crossing the working yarn over the tail end.
9.2Hold the yarn in place with the thumb of the same hand. The loose end of the working yarn will now be on the left. Turn your hand over and insert your hook under the yarn on the right side.
9.3Hook the working yarn (on the left) and pull it through, under the yarn on the right.
9.4Twist the hook as you bring the loop through.
9.5Carefully take the loop off your fingers and work a chain to secure the loop. You can then continue to work as many chains as the pattern calls for.
10 . Slip Knot10.1Leaving a tail (around 4-5 inches long) of yarn at the front of your hand, wrap the yarn loosely, around your first finger. Wrap the yarn from the front, crossing the yarn at the top of your finger.
10.2Insert your hook under the yarn on the right side. Hook the yarn on the left, pull it under the yarn on the right, twisting the hook as you pull it through.
10.3Carefully take the knot off your finger. Pull the free end, to tighten the knot.
10.4Pull the working yarn, to tighten the loop on your hook. Now you are ready to work.
11 . Finish off (fo)11.1Finish off by cutting the yarn and pulling the end through the loop on the hook. Pull this tight, to stop the stitches unravelling.
0 . NotesSeam Allowance
Hook Size 8 / 5mm – Test Square 2 inch = 6 stitches x 6 rows
0.1The pattern also includes hand sewing techniques. We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands.
NOTE – The pictures below show the stitches being done on fabric. The methods are the same on yarn.
1 . Attaching Thread1.1Thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread.
On the inside of one of the fabric pieces, put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric.
1.2Pull the thread almost all the way to the knot. Stop pulling, split the thread close to the knot creating a gap then slip the needle through the gap.
1.3Pull the thread taut. The thread should now be knotted to the fabric.
NOTE – Tying the thread to the fabric this way will prevent the knot from coming through the fabric as you stitch.
1.4Put the needle through to the right side or underside of the fabric depending on which side of the fabric the needle needs to be on for the next step.
2 . Whipstitch2.1Thread the needle with yarn and attach to the inside one of the crocheted pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions below.
Line up the crocheted edges, right sides out.
Put the needle through one of the crocheted pieces so it comes out the loops of the first stitch on the right side of the piece. Then, bring the needle over both pieces and insert it into both loops of the next set of stitches on each of the crocheted edges. Pull the needle all the way through, pulling the yarn taut.
2.2Move the needle back over both pieces of crochet work and put the needle back into the loops on the next stitch. Be sure to go through both layers. Pull the needle all the way through and pull the yarn taut.
2.3Repeat all the way around.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
Hook Size 8 / 5mm – Test Square 2 inch = 6 stitches x 6 rows
0.1Size small instructions are green.
Size medium instructions are red.
Size large instructions are blue.
Instructions in black, apply to all sizes.
Note – the chains worked at the start of rows or rounds, are not included in the stitch count given, unless stated.
0.2Sample Square
It is important that the gauge is correct for this pattern. If not, the finished hood will not be the right measurements. Make sure that when you are counting your stitches, (to check the gauge) you look at the top of the row. Measuring with your sample laid flat, you will see 4 stitch pairs, per 2 inches. From the top, you will see 6, individual stitches. (See the photos to help you.)
If your gauge doesn’t match, you can try working with a larger, or smaller, hook size. Otherwise, you can crochet your stitches tighter or looser, as required.
1 . Main Hood1.0This section is crocheted in multiple rows of suzette stitch.
1.1With the light brown yarn chain 50. Chain 60. Chain 70.
1.2Starting in the second chain from the hook, work a single crochet and a double crochet, into the same chain. Skip the next chain and work 1 single crochet and 1 double crochet into the next chain and skip 1 chain. Repeat this pattern across the starting chain. In the last chain of the row, work 1 single crochet only. Turn. (49 stitches, 59 stitches, 69 stitches).
1.3Chain 1. In the first stitch, (this is the 1 single crochet that you worked, at the end of the last row) work 1 single crochet and 1 double crochet. Skip 1 stitch. Repeat this pattern across the row, then work 1 single crochet only, into the last stitch. Turn. (49 stitches, 59 stitches, 69 stitches)
Tip – The last stitch of the row may have curled around the corner. Make sure that you don’t miss it, or your stitch count will reduce.
1.4Repeat step 1.3 for 22, 24, 28 further rows. Your work should now measure 8.5 inches, 9 inches, 10 inches, high.
Tip – count your stitches, after every 2-3 rows that you work, to make sure that you are not increasing, or decreasing, your stitch count. It may be helpful to add stitch markers, every 10 stitches, to make counting quicker.
1.5Finish off, leaving a tail of around 40 inches. Thread a needle onto the end of the tail.
1.6Fold the piece in half, across a vertical axis, lining up the edges. Pin or clip the top edge together.
1.7Using the tail of yarn, whipstitch the 2 edges together, where you have pinned. When you have reached the end, tie off. Weave in the tail ends.
You now have the basic hood shape, that is open at the bottom and the front. Next you will crochet an edging around the front opening, to shape the hood around the face.
1.8Join the mid brown yarn, in the bottom, left, corner, of the front of the hood. To do this, put a slip knot, of the new yarn, onto your hook. Insert the hook into the starting stitch. Yarn over and pull through a loop. Slip stitch, to secure it.
1.9Chain 2. Work 1 half double crochet into each of the row ends, around the front edge of the hood. 24 26 30 stitches, up 1 side, to the central seam, and then the same number of stitches, down the other side. After the last stitch, chain 2, (these chains count as a stitch here) and slip stitch into the bottom corner. (This chain 2 and slip stitch, makes both the starting and finishing points of this row look the same). Turn. (49 stitches, 53 stitches, 61 stitches).
1.10Working back along the half double crochet stitches, of the previous row, chain 1.
Work 1 single crochet into the first 3 stitches. 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 8 stitches, 1 single crochet two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 5 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 3 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 5 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 8 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 3 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the remaining 2 stitches. Turn. (42 stitches)
Work 1 single crochet into the first 2 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 10 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 6 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 5 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 6 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 10 stitches, 2 single crochet, two together into the remaining 4 stitches. Turn. (46 stitches)
Work 1 single crochet into the first 2 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 15 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 6 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 3 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 6 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 15 stitches, 2 single crochet, two together into the remaining 4 stitches, turn. (54 stitches)
1.11Chain 1.
Work 1 single crochet into the first 8 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 22 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the remaining 8 stitches. Don’t turn. (40 stitches)
Work 1 single crochet into the first 8 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 26 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the remaining 8 stitches. Don’t turn. (44 stitches)
Work 1 single crochet into the first 8 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 10 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 10 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the next 10 stitches, 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches, 1 single crochet into the remaining 8 stitches. Don’t turn. (50 stitches)
2 . Cowl2.0You will now attach the bottom, front corners of the hood together and work in joined rounds, to create the cowl. The chains at the start of the rounds don’t count in the stitch numbers. However, the chains worked during some of the rounds, do count, where indicated.
2.2Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into the 3 row ends, from the border. Then continue working along the bottom edge, (the underside of the starting chain) of the rest of the hood, as follows: Chain 1, Skip 1 stitch. 1 single crochet into the next stitch. Repeat this pattern, around, until you reach the border, on the other side. (The chains worked through the round, count as stitches here). (48 stitches, 58 stitches, 68 stitches). Work 1 single crochet into the 3 row ends, then continue, working 1 single crochet into the 8, 8, 10 chains that join the front of the hood. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 1, (or the first stitch) at the start of the round. (62 stitches, 72 stitches, 84 stitches)
Tip – While it is usual to slip stitch into the top of the chains, to join rounds. We find that you get a neater, less obvious join, if you slip stitch, into the first stitch of the round instead. Also try to keep the tension quite tight, as you work the join. If you decide to join like this, make sure that you work the first stitch of the next round, into the same stitch that you worked the joining slip stitch. Otherwise, your stitch count will reduce.
2.3Working in the single crochets and chain 1 spaces, from the previous round: chain 1.
Work 1 single crochet into the first 14 stitches. Then 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches and 1 single crochet into the 2 stitches following. Repeat this pattern, (starting with the single crochet two together) 6 times in total. Finish the round by working 1 single crochet into the remaining 24 stitches. Slip stitch to join and turn. (56 stitches)
Work 1 single crochet into the first 17 stitches. Then 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches and 1 single crochet into the 2 stitches following. Repeat this pattern, (starting with the single crochet two together) 7 times in total. Finish the round by working 1 single crochet into the remaining 27 stitches. Slip stitch to join and turn. (65 stitches)
Work 1 single crochet into the first 20 stitches. Then 1 single crochet, two together into the next 2 stitches and 1 single crochet into the 2 stitches following. Repeat this pattern, (starting with the single crochet two together) 9 times in total. Finish the round by working 1 single crochet into the remaining 28 stitches. Slip stitch to join and turn. (75 stitches)
This round will have tapered the hood in, around the back of the neck.
2.4Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into each stitch of the round. Slip stitch to join. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches)
2.5Change color to light brown. To do this, cut the working yarn, (leaving a tail to weave in later). Put a slip knot of the new yarn onto the end of your hook. Slip the new yarn through the loop already on your hook and pull the cut end of the old yarn to tighten.
2.6Chain 2. Work 1 half double crochet into each stitch of the round. Slip stitch to join. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches)
2.7Chain 2. Work 1 half double crochet into the first stitch, chain 1, and skip a stitch. Repeat this pattern around and slip stitch to join. (The chains worked through this round are counted as stitches). (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches).
2.8Change color to mid brown, (as in step 2.5). Chain 2. Work 1 half double crochet into the first stitch, chain 1 and skip a stitch (Again, the chains count as stitches here). Repeat this pattern around and slip stitch to join. Make sure that you are working the half double crochets into the chain 1 spaces, from the previous round. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches)
2.9Repeat step 2.8 for 2 more rounds. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches per round)
2.10Change color to light brown, (as in step 2.5). Repeat step 2.8 for 1 round. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches)
2.11Change color to mid brown, (as in step 2.5). Chain 2. Work 1 half double crochet into each stitch around. Work into the half double crochets and the chain spaces, from the previous round. Slip stitch to join. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches)
2.12Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into each stitch of the round. Slip stitch to join. (56 stitches, 65 stitches, 75 stitches)
2.13Finish off. Weave all the tails ends into the inside of the hood and cowl.
3 . Bear Ears3.0These are made in joined rounds and the pattern is the same for all sizes. As before, you may wish to join the rounds, by slip stitching into the first stitch of the round, instead of the chain 1 at the start. (see tip in step 2.2)
3.1With the light brown yarn, make a magic ring.
3.2Work 6 single crochets into the ring. Pull the yarn tail, to close the ring. Then slip stitch, to join the round. (6 stitches)
3.3Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets into each stitch around and slip stitch to join. (12 stitches)
3.4Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into the first stitch, then 2 single crochets into the next stitch. Repeat 6 times in total. Slip stitch to join. (18 stitches)
3.5Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into the first 2 stitches, then 2 single crochets into the 3rd stitch. Repeat this pattern 5 times in total, then work 1 slip stitch into the remaining 4 stitches. Slip stitch to join. (24 stitches)
Tip – when working slip stitches as part of a round, it is advisable to keep these stitches quite loose. You will be working into them in the next round and this is much more difficult, if the stitches are tight.
3.6Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet into the first 3 stitches, then 2 single crochets into the 4th stitch. Repeat this pattern 5 times in total, then work 1 slip stitch into the remaining 5 stitches. Slip stitch to join. (30 stitches)
3.7Chain 2. Work 1 half double crochet into the first 25 stitches and turn. (25 stitches)
3.8Change color to mid brown, (as in step 2.5). Leave a tail of around 20 inches of the light brown yarn. Chain 1. Work 1 single crochet through the back loop, into the half double crochet stitches, from the previous row. (25 stitches)
3.9Finish off. Weave the tail ends, into the back of the ear, (all except the long one).
4 . OPTIONAL Drawstring4.0The drawstring is optional, but is helpful to hold the hood on, around the face. If you decide to add the drawstring, it can be left untied, as a decorative element, when not in use. Or even removed and re-inserted later, if required.
4.1Measure and cut, 3 lengths of mid brown yarn, measuring 40 inches. 45 inches. 50 inches. You can make this longer or shorter to suit your requirements.
4.2Knot all 3 strands together, at one end.
4.3Braid the strands, starting at the knot, and working down the entire length of the yarn. Tie a knot at the bottom end.
Tip – It will help to keep an even tension in your braid, if you can weigh down the top end with something heavy, while you work.
4.4Trim the loose ends to neaten.
5 . Assembly and Finishing5.0Most of the project is made as one piece, so only a little assembly is needed here.
5.1Attaching the ears – Measure down from the central seam of the hood, (on one side) approximately 2 inches. Then measure from front to back, approximately 2.5 inches, starting where the main hood joins the edging. Position the top edge of an ear at this point. Make sure that it’s straight and pin in place. Repeat on the other side, for the second ear. Check that both ears look evenly spaced.
5.2Beginning with either ear, thread your needle onto the tail left, after completing the crocheting.
5.3Whipstitch, starting at either side, across the front edge of the ear, attaching it to the hood. Then sew along the back edge of the ear, in the same way.
5.4Tie off the yarn, inside the hood and weave in the end.
5.5Repeat steps 5.2 to 5.4, for the second ear.
5.6Threading the drawstring – attach the large eyed wool needle (or safety pin) to one end of the drawstring. Starting at the bottom of the hood border, on either side, insert the needle, from the outside to the inside. Leaving a few inches of the braid, at the bottom, weave the drawstring in and out, every 2 stitches, between the second and third rows of the border, (that you made in steps 1.10 and 1.11). Continue around the hood, until you reach the opposite side.
Tip – As you are threading the drawstring, make sure that the braid lays flat and doesn’t twist, as you are weaving it through the stitches.
5.7Remove the needle. Adjust the drawstring, so that the front tails are the same length. Do this, by moving some of the braid, through the stitches, to the opposite side, as needed.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Bear Hood is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbearhoodcrochet.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBear Hood
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Crochet this cuddly, cozy, hood, and cowl. A great alternative to a hat and scarf, for the cold weather. It has super cute bear ears, and an optional drawstring that allows the hood to be tightened around the face. This would make a lovely gift, for a special bear cub in your life.
SizingSize Range
Crochet
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below.
Age Head Circumference Inches CM S 1 to 4 years 17 to 19 43 to 48 M 5 to 8 years 19 to 21 48 to 53 L 9 to 12+ years 21 to 23 53 to 58 Finished Measurements (Inches)
Height Width (laid flat – half width)
Width (ear to ear)
Small 12.0 8.5 17.0 Medium 12.5 9.5 19.0 Large 13.0 10.5 21.0 Materials and ToolsYarn – Acrylic, or an acrylic blend is the recommended fiber of yarn for this pattern. This will be a warm and soft yarn for next to the skin. The pieces are made and stitched together, with 10 ply acrylic aran/worsted weight.
NOTE – The details listed below, give details of the weight and yardage, as sold. However, you will need approximately 150g of yarn for the small and medium sizes. And approximately 200g for the large size.
We have suggested colors to use. If you would like to use the same colors, follow the information listed below and throughout the tutorial. If you would prefer to use different colors, feel free to do so.
Recommended Colors Qty Colors used in tutorial Bear Cub Winter Hood 100% Acrylic Aran/worsted weight/10ply
Light Brown 1x 3.5oz / 100g ball, 201 yds Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran Color 208
Mid Brown 1x 3.5oz / 100g ball, 201 yds Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran Color 209
You will also need:
- Crochet hook 8 / 5mm
- Large eyed needle or safety pin for inserting drawstring
- Stitch markers, or you can use scraps of yarn instead
Tools needed are pins/clips, optional long pins, needles (darning and sewing), scissors and optional stitch marker.