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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
15
Bianca Bra
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
The Bianca underwire bra pattern is a full coverage bra with optional foam padding providing gentle lift and amazing support. The Bianca underwire bra features a back hook and eye closure, adjustable straps, optional power bar and optional side stays ensuring it fits perfectly. The edges are beautifully finished with picot elastic and optional overlay and front bow detailing.
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- +Preparation
- If the band is too loose – go DOWN a band size and UP a cup size.
- If the band is too tight – go UP a band size and DOWN a cup size.
- If the band fits but the cups don’t – keep the band size and go up or down in cup size.
- If the cups fit but the band doesn’t – keep the cup size and change the band size, going up or down based on what you need.
- For our underwire fitting example, if it is sitting away from your breast plate, try one band size down and a fuller cup.
- Cups AA – F use 1.5 inch wide 2 hook/eye adjustments
- Cups G – M use 2.2 inch wide 3 hook/eye adjustments
- OPTIONAL Decorative bows – 3x small lingerie satin bow
- Matching thread
- Picot Elastic (⅜ inch wide)
- Strap Elastic (¾ inch wide)
- Plush Elastic (½ inch wide)
Band Size
AA Cup
Band Size
A Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
7.1
3.3
15.0
24.0
28
7.1
3.3
15.6
21.6
30
7.6
3.3
15.0
26.0
30
7.7
3.3
15.6
23.4
32
8.6
3.3
15.0
28.0
32
8.7
3.3
15.6
25.2
34
10.2
3.3
15.0
30.0
34
10.0
3.3
15.6
27.0
36
11.2
3.3
15.0
32.0
36
11.0
3.3
15.6
29.0
38
12.1
3.3
15.0
34.0
38
12.0
3.3
15.6
30.6
40
13.1
3.3
15.0
36.0
40
13.0
3.3
15.6
32.4
42
14.1
3.3
15.0
38.0
42
14.0
3.3
15.6
34.2
44
15.1
3.3
15.0
40.0
44
15.0
3.3
15.6
36.0
46
16.1
3.3
15.0
42.0
46
16.0
3.3
15.6
38.0
48
16.5
3.3
15.0
44.0
48
16.6
3.3
15.6
39.6
Band Size
B Cup
Band Size
C Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
7.2
3.3
16.1
21.6
28
7.3
3.3
16.7
21.6
30
7.8
3.3
16.1
23.4
30
8.0
3.3
16.7
23.4
32
8.7
3.3
16.1
25.2
32
8.7
3.3
16.7
25.2
34
9.7
3.3
16.1
27.0
34
9.7
3.3
16.7
27.0
36
10.8
3.3
16.1
29.0
36
10.7
3.3
16.7
29.0
38
11.8
3.3
16.1
30.6
38
11.7
3.3
16.7
30.6
40
12.7
3.3
16.1
32.4
40
12.7
3.3
16.7
32.4
42
13.7
3.3
16.1
34.2
42
13.7
3.3
16.7
34.2
44
14.7
3.3
16.1
36.0
44
14.7
3.3
16.7
36.0
46
15.7
3.3
16.1
38.0
46
15.7
3.3
16.7
38.0
48
16.6
3.3
16.1
39.6
48
16.7
3.3
16.7
39.6
Band Size
D Cup
Band Size
E Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
7.4
3.3
17.3
21.6
28
7.5
3.4
17.7
21.6
30
8.3
3.3
17.3
23.4
30
8.4
3.4
17.7
23.4
32
9.0
3.3
17.3
25.2
32
9.0
3.4
17.7
25.2
34
9.6
3.3
17.3
27.0
34
9.5
3.4
17.7
27.0
36
10.6
3.3
17.3
29.0
36
10.6
3.4
17.7
29.0
38
11.6
3.3
17.3
30.6
38
12.5
3.4
17.7
30.6
40
12.6
3.3
17.3
32.4
40
13.5
3.4
17.7
32.4
42
13.6
3.3
17.3
34.2
42
14.5
3.4
17.7
34.2
44
14.6
3.3
17.3
36.0
44
15.5
3.4
17.7
36.0
46
15.6
3.3
17.3
38.0
46
15.5
3.4
17.7
38.0
48
16.7
3.3
17.3
39.6
48
17.0
3.4
17.7
39.6
Band Size
F Cup
Band Size
G Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge
(Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
7.6
3.4
18.1
21.6
28
9.0
3.4
18.5
24.0
30
8.5
3.4
18.1
23.4
30
9.7
3.4
18.5
26.0
32
9.1
3.4
18.1
25.2
32
11
3.4
18.5
28.0
34
9.5
3.4
18.1
27.0
34
11.7
3.4
18.5
30.0
36
10.5
3.4
18.1
29.0
36
12.7
3.4
18.5
32.0
38
11.5
3.4
18.1
30.6
38
13.5
3.4
18.5
34.0
40
12.5
3.4
18.1
32.4
40
14.6
3.4
18.5
36.0
42
13.4
3.4
18.1
34.2
42
15.5
3.4
18.5
38.0
44
14.5
3.4
18.1
36.0
44
16.5
3.4
18.5
40.0
46
15.5
3.4
18.1
38.0
46
18.2
3.4
18.5
42.0
48
17.0
3.4
18.1
39.6
48
18.3
3.4
18.5
44.0
Band Size
H Cup
Band Size
I Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge (Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge (Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
8.7
3.2
18.7
21.6
28
8.6
3.5
19.2
21.6
30
9.6
3.2
18.7
23.4
30
9.5
3.5
19.2
23.4
32
10.7
3.2
18.7
25.2
32
10.5
3.5
19.2
25.2
34
11.6
3.2
18.7
27.0
34
11.5
3.5
19.2
27.0
36
12.6
3.2
18.7
29.0
36
12.5
3.5
19.2
29.0
38
13.3
3.2
18.7
30.6
38
13.1
3.5
19.2
30.6
40
14.5
3.2
18.7
32.4
40
14.3
3.5
19.2
32.4
42
15.2
3.2
18.7
34.2
42
15.0
3.5
19.2
34.2
44
16.4
3.2
18.7
36.0
44
16.1
3.5
19.2
36.0
46
18.0
3.2
18.7
38.0
46
17.7
3.5
19.2
38.0
48
18.0
3.2
18.7
39.6
48
17.8
3.5
19.2
39.6
Band Size
J Cup
Band Size
K Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge (Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge (Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
8.5
3.6
19.5
21.6
28
8.5
3.7
20.1
21.6
30
9.2
3.6
19.5
23.4
30
9.1
3.7
20.1
23.4
32
10.3
3.6
19.5
25.2
32
10.2
3.7
20.1
25.2
34
11.2
3.6
19.5
27.0
34
11.0
3.7
20.1
27.0
36
12.2
3.6
19.5
29.0
36
12.0
3.7
20.1
29.0
38
13.0
3.6
19.5
30.6
38
12.7
3.7
20.1
30.6
40
14.1
3.6
19.5
32.4
40
14.0
3.7
20.1
32.4
42
14.7
3.6
19.5
34.2
42
14.6
3.7
20.1
34.2
44
16.0
3.6
19.5
36.0
44
15.7
3.7
20.1
36.0
46
17.6
3.6
19.5
38.0
46
17.5
3.7
20.1
38.0
48
17.7
3.6
19.5
39.6
48
17.6
3.7
20.1
39.6
Band Size
L Cup
Band Size
M Cup
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Picot elastic
Strap elastic
Plush elastic
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge (Cut 1)
Underarm (Cut 2)
Back strap (Cut 2)
Shoulder strap (Cut 2)
Underbust bottom edge (Cut 1)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
28
8.4
3.8
20.5
21.6
28
8.2
3.9
20.7
21.6
30
9.0
3.8
20.5
23.4
30
8.7
3.9
20.7
23.4
32
10.0
3.8
20.5
25.2
32
9.8
3.9
20.7
25.2
34
10.7
3.8
20.5
27.0
34
10.6
3.9
20.7
27.0
36
11.7
3.8
20.5
29.0
36
11.5
3.9
20.7
29.0
38
12.5
3.8
20.5
30.6
38
12.4
3.9
20.7
30.6
40
13.7
3.8
20.5
32.4
40
13.6
3.9
20.7
32.4
42
14.5
3.8
20.5
34.2
42
14.7
3.9
20.7
34.2
44
15.6
3.8
20.5
36.0
44
15.5
3.9
20.7
36.0
46
17.4
3.8
20.5
38.0
46
17.3
3.9
20.7
38.0
48
17.5
3.8
20.5
39.6
48
17.1
3.9
20.7
39.6
- Center Cup:
- Fabric – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Cup:
- Fabric – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Band – Cut 1 on fold
- Back Band – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Overlay – Repeat the cutting instructions for all the pieces you would like to add an overlay to. For example, if you would like to add an overlay to the Cups, cut out the same instructions as per the Fabric for each cup piece.
- Power Bar – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Center Cup:
- Fabric – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Middle Cup:
- Fabric – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Side Cup:
- Fabric – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Lining – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Band – Cut 1 on fold
- Back Band – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Power mesh – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Overlay – Repeat the cutting instructions for all the pieces you would like to add an overlay to. For example, if you would like to add an overlay to the Cups, cut out the same instructions as per the Fabric for each cup piece.
- Power Bar – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewBianca Bra
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
The underwired Bianca Bra with optional lining is here to support you. With full coverage and optional foam padding, the bra provides a gentle lift yet superb support. The stretch cups fit to your bust, while the roundness adds shape without adding bulk. With a back hook and eye closure, adjustable straps, optional power bar and optional side stays, this bra offers you all the support you need. The edges are finished off beautifully with picot elastic and an optional bow at the front. Add the optional overlay and bow for a little something extra. Why not pair it with the Bianca Underwear for the perfect lingerie set.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Cups: 28AA - 48M
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Band size
Cup Size
28
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
30
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
32
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
34
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
36
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
38
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
40
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
42
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
44
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
46
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
48
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
This chart shows the sister sizes. This will help you find your correct fit.
Measuring
You will need to determine your band size (underbust – yellow line) and cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
The band sizes range from 28 to 48 inches in increments of two e.g. 28, 30, 32 etc.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from AA – M. Please see the chart below (in INCHES) on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup size
Difference from underbust
AA
0.5
A
1.0
B
2.0
C
3.0
D
4.0
E
5.0
F
6.0
G
7.0
H
8.0
I
9.0
J
10.0
K
11.0
L
12.0
M
13.0
Watch our video on how to measure your band and cup size.
Fitting NotesDon’t let choosing a band and cup size panic you! Each one of us has a totally different shape. Under and full bust measurements don’t give us a complete, accurate assessment of size. We have different back measurements, breast shape, etc. Moving up or down a cup size and adjusting the band as needed might achieve a better fit than your measured size. These are your sister sizes.
If you look at our size chart, you can see the sizes are all staggered, almost in a pretty line. This serves a second purpose, other than showing our size range. It shows you what your sister sizes will be! Find your size on our chart and make a muslin with that band and cup. If it doesn’t feel quite right, take the sizing up or down vertically and try that one next.
Here are a few fitting suggestions:
Just remember that the cup size will change based upon the band size.
The size chart shows the sister sizes to help you find your correct fit.
To get the best fit we suggest doing the following:
While standing in front of a large mirror, bend forward from the waist and then stand back up. Make sure to lift the breasts into the cups, then adjust the straps to fit.Starting with the band; clasp the hook on the loosest hook – it should be snug.
You shouldn’t be able to move it more than 2 inches away from your back. Pay attention to whether or not it rides up in the back, or if the straps are digging into your shoulders. If it does any of these, you need a smaller band. If the back feels too tight, you will need a bigger band.The band needs to sit level across the body and be in line with the underwires. The length of the straps needs to be adjusted to support the cup and should be comfortable. If the straps are falling off, make sure to tighten them.
For the cups to fit correctly, there should be no bulging, gaping, or spilling out of the cups. If this is happening, try a bigger cup. If you have gaping or wrinkling cups, try a smaller cup size. For correct fit, the underwire should sit under each breast, sitting in the crease and end under your arms. If the underwire doesn’t sit flat against your ribcage, lifts away from the body, or digs in anywhere, try a bigger cup.
If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – Your bra fabric needs to be a 2-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. The stretch should run opposite to the grainline on the pattern pieces. Best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. Great examples are cotton lycra, medium weight jersey, viscose, ponte, scuba, stretch lace, stretch velour, and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your Bra maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns back to its original size.
Lining – You will need to line the Cups of the Bra. You can line these using the same fabric as your main or any 2-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. You can also use a prefinished light weight foam padding/cut and sew foam as the lining. This will give a push-up effect and give additional support.
OPTIONAL Power Mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Cup Lining or add a “power bar”. A “power bar” is a support panel that runs down the side of the cup. This will lift and support the bust. If you would like to line your Back Band pieces with power mesh you will need approximately a fat half for all sizes.
OPTIONAL Overlay – You can add an overlay to the outer of the Bra. You will need a 4-way stretch fabric with good recovery e.g. lace, mesh.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Power mesh
OPTIONAL Overlay
AA – M
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Underwire Casing
This is used as an enclosure for the underwires, while stabilizing the cup to frame seam. We suggest a plush underwire casing as it is softer against the body, as well as strong and durable. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes. If you are adding optional side stays you use this casing for the boning as well.Underwires
Underwires support the breasts by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the band. By using them you will get the best lift and support possible from your bra.Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. We recommend using fully coated steel flat wires. You will need 1x pair Full Cup Underwire – see chart below for sizing. Please note this is a suggested length/size. Please adjust according to your personal shape and fit.
Underwire size chart
Cup
UK
USA
Length (in INCHES)
AA
1
30
6.1
A
2
32
6.7
B
3
34
7.3
C
4
36
8.0
D
5
38
8.5
E
6
40
9.1
F
7
42
9.7
G
8
44
11.0
H
9
46
11.6
I
10
48
12.3
J
11
50
13.0
K
12
52
13.7
L
13
54
14.4
M
14
56
15.1
Strap Elastic
The bra straps keep the bra in a stable position on the body. It is usually shiny on one side and plush on the side facing the body facing. The bra straps need to have a firm stretch with a maximum 50% stretch.The width of the strap elastic will vary by cup size. Cup sizes G – M may need to use wider elastic for increased stability. A wider strap will also create visual harmony with the rest of the bra. We suggest the following widths per cup size: Cups AA – F use ⅜ inch wide or Cups G – M use ¾ inch wide.
See the cut chart below for lengths. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
Rings and Sliders
These are used to make your straps adjustable. You will need 1x O-Ring/Slider pair the same width as your strap elastic. Check your rings and sliders match the width of your strap elastic.Underbust Band Elastic
Use a soft plush backed lingerie elastic as this will feel more comfortable against your skin. See the cut chart below for elastic lengths – approximately 1 ½ yards will be enough for all sizes. We suggest the following widths per cup size Cups AA – F use ⅜ inch wide or Cups G – M use ½ inch wide.Cup and Underarm Elastic
Lingerie elastic usually has a decorative “picot” edge on one side and a flat finish on the opposite side. You will need ⅜ inch wide Picot Elastic. See the cut chart below for elastic lengths – approximately 1 ½ yards for cup sizes AA – F and approximately 1.75 yards for cup sizes G – M.Hook and Eye Closure
The bra is finished with a hook and eye adjustment. You can buy this as a continuous tape or pre-cut. We recommend the following sizes with finished edges in order to work with our band sizes and seam allowances.OPTIONAL Side Stays
Adding optional side supports to your Bra will support the sides of your breasts. This will help prevent them from spilling sideways and could make them look smaller. You will also need casing (details listed above). You will need 12mm plastic boning and 2x 12mm boning end caps. See chart below for cut lengths (in INCHES).Boning Chart
(Cut 2)Cup
Length
AA
3.0
A
3.2
B
3.3
C
3.5
D
3.6
E
3.7
F
4.0
G
3.4
H
3.5
I
3.7
J
4.0
K
4.1
L
4.4
M
4.6
Other Materials
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, optional zipper foot, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
AA Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 A Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 B Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 C Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 D Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-5 E Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-5 F Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-5 G Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-6 H Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-6 I Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-6 J Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-7 K Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-7 L Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-7 M Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-8 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
AA Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 A Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 B Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 C Cup
All Sizes 28AA – 48M 2-4 D Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-5 E Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-5 F Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-5 G Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-6 H Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-6 I Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-6 J Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-7 K Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-7 L Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-7 M Cup
All Sizes XXS – 5XL 2-8 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included. The elastic length measurements are listed below (in INCHES).
Elastic widths:
Cutting Checklist:
Cup sizes AA – F (Two Piece Cup)
OPTIONS:
Cup sizes G – M (Three Piece Cup)
OPTIONS:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric.
- OPTIONAL LACE OVERLAY – Lay lace onto outer fabric for all pieces having an overlay added, match wrong side of lace to right side of outer fabric, pin and baste.
- OPTION Cups AA – F (two pieces): Right sides together, stitch Center Cup and Side Cup, press seam open. Now called Cup. Repeat for Lining, trim seam allowance, zig zag stitch on the seam of foam padding if using. Now called Cup Lining. Repeat for second cup.
- OPTION Cups G – M (three pieces): Right sides together stitch Center Cup and Middle Cup on the cup seam. Stitch Side Cup to other cup seam. Press seam open. Now called Cup. Repeat for Lining, trim seam allowance of the foam, zig zag stitch on the seam of foam padding if using. Now called Cup Lining. Repeat for second cup.
- OPTIONAL POWER BAR – Fold Power Bar in half matching raw edges. Line up Power Bar inside the Cup Lining and baste raw edges. Repeat for second cup.
- FINISHING THE CUPS – Cut picot elastic to match top bust edge, pin right sides together and baste picot. Place Main Cup and Cup Lining, right sides together, stitch. Turn right side out. Topstitch.
- FRONT BAND – Pin Cup to Front Band right sides together at the underarm. Pin the other side of the cup to the marking. Pin Cup to Band in between the two pins, stitch Cup onto Band. Trim seam allowances. Repeat with second Cup.
- BACK BAND – Place Back and Front band right sides together, stitch, press and trim seam allowance. Repeat with second Back Band.
- FINISHING THE EDGES – Pin one end of the picot to top of the cup on the bust edge and the other to the Back Band. Stretch to fit and baste. Fold to wrong side, pin and topstitch. Repeat for other side. Fold Bra in half, marking the center and quarter of the bottom edge. Quarter Underbust elastic. Match quarter points, baste, fold to wrong side, and topstitch. Fold raw edge of Front Band between the cups to the wrong side of the bra, baste.
- CASINGS – Cut casing the same length as the Cup cradle. Pin Casing over the cradle seam on the wrong side. Topstitch casing to the Bra. Repeat for the casing on the other Bra Cup. Stitch across both casings in the middle front of the Front Band closed. Add an OPTIONAL Bow in the middle of Bra Cups. OPTIONAL Side Stays – Repeat to add casings to seams between Front Band and Back Band, sew ends of casings at the bottom of the bra.
- STRAPS – Thread an O-Ring onto back strap elastic. Fold strap wrong sides together, overlapping strap ½ inch, stitch. Put wrong sides together, pin ends of strap to curved edge on Back Band. Stretch strap, baste along curved edge. Fold strap to right side and topstitch. Thread strap through slider, baste plush sides together. Thread other end through other side of O-ring, thread other end of the strap through slider. Stitch the end to the wrong side of the Bra at the top corner of the cup. Add OPTIONAL Bow. Repeat for the other strap.
- UNDERWIRE – Insert underwire casings and under the cups. Stitch end of casing closed.
- OPTIONAL SIDE STAYS – Insert boning into top of the casings between the Front and Back band. Add boning cap on. Stitch top of casing.
- HOOK AND EYES – Stitch eye side on Left Band. Repeat with hook side on right Back Band.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch
Topstitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm – Narrow zig zag 2.0 x 1.0 mmNOTE – We do not recommend using a serger for this pattern.
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch - Top stitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm – Narrow zig zag 2.0 x 1.0 mm
0.1It can be tricky to get the right fit for your bra especially as we all have different shapes and sizes. We have listed a few common issues and suggested adjustments to help fix these in order to help you get the best fit for your Bianca Bra.
1 . Narrow or Broad Shoulders1.1NARROW SHOULDERS – You will need to bring the shoulder straps closer together to prevent them falling off your shoulders. To do this add width onto the Back Band, following the narrow line. This will be your new Back Band pattern piece.
BROAD SHOULDERS – You will need to move the shoulder straps further apart for a better fit across the back and shoulders. To do this take out width on the Back Band, following the narrow line. This will be your new Back Band pattern piece.
2 . Petite Armscye2.1Remove height at the strap placement on the Outer Cup, easing into the seam allowance.
3 . Add or Remove Length from Back Bands3.1If you would like to add or remove length from the Back Band, take your pattern piece and mark halfway along the straight top edge, down towards the bottom edge. Cut.
3.2ADD LENGTH – Spread out the pattern piece by the amount you would like to increase the Back Band by. Redraw the piece. This will be your new Back Band pattern piece.
3.3REMOVE LENGTH – Overlap the pattern piece by the amount you would like to decrease the Back Band by. Redraw the piece. This will be your new Back Band pattern piece.
4 . Gaping under the Arm or Underbust4.1Take the Front and Back Band pattern pieces and overlap them at the side seam by ⅜ inch (seam allowance).
4.2UNDERARM – Overlap the top edges (underarm) at an angle to take out the amount you need. Redraw both pattern pieces, smoothing out the lines. These will be your new Front and Back Band pattern pieces.
4.3UNDERBUST – Overlap the bottom edges (underbust) at an angle to take out the amount you need. Redraw both pattern pieces, smoothing out the lines. These will be your new Front and Back Band pattern pieces.
4.4GAPING AT THE CUP UNDER THE ARM – Make a small cut in the Outer Cup piece. Overlap by the amount needed. Tape down and trace over the new piece, smoothing the curve. These will be your new Outer Cup pattern piece.
5 . Adjusting Bridge Width5.0If you find you need to adjust the bridge width (spacing between the breasts) of the Front Band, here are a few adjustment options:
5.1DECREASE – Using your Front Band pattern piece, move the fold line in towards the cradle by the amount you need to decrease the bridge width by. This will be your new Front Band pattern piece.
Another option would be to move the seam allowances inward at the center of the Front Band when stitching the Cups. Check that this is even on both sides.
5.2INCREASE – Using your Front Band pattern piece, move the fold line out by the amount you need to increase the bridge width by. This will be your new Front Band pattern piece.
5.3REMOVE WIDTH AT THE TOP – Using your Front Band pattern piece, take it in at an upwards angle by the amount you need to decrease the top width by. This will be your new Front Band pattern piece.
5.4REMOVE WIDTH AT THE BOTTOM – Using your Front Band pattern piece, take it in at a downwards angle by the amount you need to decrease the bottom width by. This will be your new Front Band pattern piece.
6 . Hook and Eye Width6.1If your hook and eye doesn’t match the Back Band pattern piece, redraw the curve from the hook and eye closure, easing up to the top curve.
7 . Adjusting Cup Volume7.0If you find the Cup fits quite well, but there is a little extra space or you need just a bit more volume, you can add or remove volume along your seam lines.
7.1REMOVE – To remove some volume from the cup, ease a deeper seam allowance when stitching, along the seams where you need less volume e.g. apex, upper cup etc.
ADD – To add more volume into the cup ease a shallower seam allowance when stitching, where it is needed.
NOTE – Make sure to be even on both sides of the seam.
8 . Using Foam as Lining8.1When stitching each cup piece together, ease the seam allowance along the cup seam, out to ¼ inch towards the bottom edge of the cup piece.
When you join the Cup Lining (foam) to the Cup pieces, stretch these to fit the width of the Cup.
You will need to ease the Cup pieces into the cradle of the Front Band when attaching.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch - Top stitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm – Narrow zig zag 2.0 x 1.0 mm
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and seam labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . OPTIONAL Overlay1.0If you are not adding an optional overlay skip to step 2 for cups AA – F, or to step 3 for cups G – M.
1.1This step is the same for all cup sizes, AA – M.
Place the Main Side Cup, right sides facing up. Lay the Overlay Side Cup on top, right sides facing up. Pin together.
1.2Baste along all raw edges using a ¼ inch seam allowance. You will now treat this as one piece.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for the rest of the pattern pieces you would like to add an overlay to.
2 . OPTION Cups AA – F (Two Piece)2.0If you are sewing cup sizes G – M skip to step 3.
2.1With the right sides together, pin the Center Cup to the Side Cup, along the cup seam. Pin in the middle and at either end first, then ease along the curve and pin together.
NOTE – Ease the Cup pieces in at the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew the fabric will.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Cup.
2.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
2.3Press the seam allowance open.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 for the other Cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup the wrong way around to the Front Band.
2.4Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3 to stitch the Center Cup Lining and the Side Cup Lining together.
NOTE – We have used foam padding as our Lining.
NOTE – These two pieces will now be referred to as the Cup Lining.
2.5Trim the seam allowance to prevent bulk.
Repeat steps 2.4 to 2.5 for the other Lining Cup.
If you are not using foam padding as a lining, skip to step 4 to add an optional power bar, or to step 5.
2.6Flatten the seam allowance to one side and stitch directly over the seam allowance using a zig zag stitch.
Repeat for the other Cup Lining.
NOTE – This seam will be on the inside of the bra. By stitching the seam down, it will help smooth out the Cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup Lining. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup Lining the wrong way around to the Front Band.
Skip to step 4 if adding the OPTIONAL power bar, or to step 5.
3 . OPTION Cups G - M (Three Piece)3.1With the right sides together, pin the Center Cup to the Middle Cup, along the cup seam. Pin in the middle and at either end first, then ease along the curve and pin together.
NOTE – Ease the Cup pieces in at the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew the fabric will.
NOTE – The Middle Cup has a cup seam on either side. Lay your pieces together matching the grainline direction, bust edges and cradle edges. This will ensure you are attaching the correct sides together.
3.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
3.3Press the seam allowance open.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to stitch the Side Cup to the other cup seam of the Middle Cup.
NOTE – These three pieces will now be referred to as the Cup.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the other Cup.
NOTE – The pictures in the rest of the tutorial show a two-piece cup, however the steps are all the same for the three-piece cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup the wrong way around to the Front Band.
3.5Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to stitch the Center Cup Lining, Middle Cup Lining and Side Cup Lining together along the cup seams.
NOTE – We have used foam padding as our Lining.
NOTE – These three pieces will now be referred to as the Cup Lining.
3.6Trim each seam allowance to prevent bulk.
Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.6 for the other Lining Cup.
If you are not using foam padding as a lining, skip to step 4 to add an optional power bar, or to step 5.
3.7Flatten each seam allowance open and stitch directly over the seam allowance using a zig zag stitch.
Repeat for the other Cup.
NOTE – This seam will be on the inside of the bra. By stitching the seam down, it will help smooth out the Cup.
TIP – Mark the cradle edge of the Cup Lining. This will ensure you do not attach the Cup Lining the wrong way around to the Front Band.
4 . OPTIONAL Power Bar4.0If you are not adding a Power Bar skip to step 5. You will be adding the power bar to the Cup Lining pieces.
4.1Fold the Power Bar in half, wrong sides together, matching the raw edges.
4.2Align the Power Bar to the right side of the Cup Lining. Pin.
4.3Baste the Power Bar in place along the raw edges.
Repeat for the other Cup.
5 . Finishing the Cups5.1Cut a piece of picot elastic the length of the bust edge of the cup.
With the right sides together, pin the picot elastic to the bust edge of the Cup, matching the plain edge of the elastic to the raw edge of the fabric.
NOTE – If you find the plain edge of your elastic is narrower than ⅜ inch, line that edge slightly away from the raw edge. Stitch ⅛ inch away from the decorative edge of the elastic.
TIP – It can be easy to stretch the picot elastic when sewing it to the bust edge. To help avoid stretching it, stitch slowly and use a walking foot.
TIP – Before using your elastic exercise it first. Steaming it can also help prepare it for use and help maintain its shape.
TIP – If you are working with thicker fabric, you can trim the fabric along the seam before turning the elastic. This will help reduce the bulk.
5.2Topstitch the picot elastic to the Cup using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.3With the right sides together, pin the Main Cup to the Cup Lining along the top edge.
NOTE – The picot elastic will now be sandwiched in-between the Main and Lining Cup.
NOTE – If you have added an overlay you will be stitching through multiple layers of fabric. Using a walking foot will help when sewing lots of layers together.
5.4Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
Turn the Cup right side out.
5.5Topstitch along the bust edge using a ⅛ inch seam allowance and a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch set to a width of 3.5 mm and length of 2.0 mm is recommended for this step.
NOTE – The picot elastic will be peeking out from the top of the Cup.
TIP – Baste your Cup Lining and Cup piece along the underarm and cradle edges and treat this as one piece.
6 . Front Band6.1You will be attaching the Cup to the Front Band along the cradle edge.
With the right sides together, pin the Cup to the Front Band at the underarm.
Pin the other side of the Cup to the pattern marking on the middle of the Front Band. Continue pinning between these two points, easing the Cup along the curve.
NOTE – Ease the Cup pieces in at the ⅜ inch seam, not the raw edges. Even though the seam allowance won’t lay flat, it means where you sew the fabric will.
NOTE – The fabric at the bridge of the Front Band above the pattern marking, will be finished at a later step.
6.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Baste the Cup to the cradle before stitching.
6.3Trim the seam allowances at the bottom of the Cup to prevent bulk.
6.4Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 to attach the other Cup to the Front Band.
7 . Back Band7.1With the right sides together, pin the long straight edge of the Back Band to the Front Band.
NOTE – Check that you are attaching the Back Band side seam (longer straight edge) to the side seam of the Front Band. The shorter straight edge is attached to the hook and eye closure.
NOTE – If you are adding power mesh to the Back Band, baste the two pieces together and treat them as one piece.
7.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
7.3If you are adding optional boning, trim the seam allowance to prevent bulk. If you are not adding optional boning, finish the raw edges using an overlocker or stretch stitch.
7.4Press the seam allowance toward the Cups.
7.5Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.4 to attach the other Back Band.
8 . Finishing the Edges8.1With the right sides together, pin one end of the underarm picot elastic to the top of the Cup at the bust edge. Pin the other end to the end of the Back Band. Stretch and pin the elastic to fit.
TIP – You can use Wash-Away tape to help hold the picot elastic in place.
NOTE – Check that the seam allowance between the Front and Back Band is still facing toward the Cup, and that the Cup seam allowance is facing down towards the Front Band.
8.2Baste the picot elastic to the Cup using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.3Fold the picot elastic to the wrong side and pin.
8.4Topstitch the picot elastic using a ⅛ inch seam allowance and a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch set to a width of 3.5 mm and length of 2.0 mm is recommended for this step.
8.5Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.4 for the other side.
8.6Fold the Bra in half and mark the center of the bottom edge with a pin.
Fold again to mark the quarter points.
8.7Mark the center and quarter points of the underbust bottom edge elastic with pins.
NOTE – The images show picot elastic, however we recommend plush lingerie elastic to give the correct amount of support in this area.
8.8With the right sides together, matching the half and quarter points, stretching the elastic. Pin to the bottom edge of the bra. Continue pinning.
NOTE – Check that the seam allowances between the Front Band and Back bands are still facing toward the Cups.
8.9Baste the elastic to the Bra using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.10Fold the elastic to the wrong side and pin.
8.11Topstitch the elastic using a wide zig zag stitch as close to the inside edge of the elastic as possible.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch set to a width of 5 mm and length of 2.0 mm is recommended for this step.
8.12Fold the raw top edge of the Front Band fabric, in between the Cups, over to the wrong side of the Bra. Pin.
8.13Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
9 . Casings9.0You will need to attach casings to insert the Underwire into and the OPTIONAL side stays. If you are doing both options, follow below. If you are not adding side stays, follow steps 9.1 to 9.5 then skip to step 10.
9.1Cut a piece of casing the same length as the Cup cradle.
NOTE – This will extend slightly over the underarm elastic.
On the wrong side of the Bra, with the seam allowance pushed towards the band, pin the casing directly over the seam on the cradle edge of the Cup.
9.2Topstitch the casing to the Bra by stitching directly over the existing stitching on both sides of the casing.
TIP – Use a zipper foot to help get close to the edges.
9.3Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 for the casing on the other Cup.
9.4Stitch from one side straight across the top of the casing on both Cups, using a narrow zig zag stitch.
Remove the basting stitches from step 8.13.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
NOTE – Leave the other end of the casings open for inserting the underwires in step 10.
9.5OPTIONAL Bow – If you are not adding the decorative bow skip to step 9.6.
Hand stitch the bow to the top center of the Front Band. This will help cover the stitching from step 9.4.
If you are not adding optional side stays, skip to step 10.1.
9.6If you are adding optional side stays, repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 to add casings on the seams between the Front Band and Back Bands on both sides.
NOTE – Check that the seam allowances between the Front Band and Back Bands are still facing toward the Cups.
9.7Stitch across the bottom of both side stay casings using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
NOTE – Leave the top of the casing open, so that the stays can be added in step 11.
10 . Straps10.1Thread an O-Ring onto the back strap elastic. Fold the strap wrong (plush) sides together, overlapping it by ½ inch and pin.
10.2Stitch through both layers of the strap, using a narrow zig zag stitch. This will secure the O-ring in place.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
10.3With the wrong sides together, pin the ends of the strap to each end of the curved edge on the Back Band. The O-ring will be at the top. Stretch the strap to fit and continue pinning.
NOTE – The long edge of the strap needs to stick out approximately ⅛ inch from the raw edge of the Back Band. Do not line up the raw edge of the Back Band to the strap edge.
10.4Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
10.5Fold the elastic to the right side and pin.
10.6Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance and a zig zag stitch.
Remove the basting stitches.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
10.7Thread the shoulder strap elastic through each opening of the slider, until approximately ½ inch of the strap is pulled through. Pin the strap with the plush sides together.
10.8Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
10.9With the plush side of the strap facing up, thread the other end through the O-ring attached to the Back Band.
10.10Bring the end of the strap up to the slider sewn in step 10.7. Thread the strap through the slider.
10.11Pin the end of the strap to the wrong side of the Bra at the top corner of the Cup.
10.12Stitch the strap to the Bra using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
10.13OPTIONAL Bow – If you are not adding the decorative bow skip to step 10.13.
Hand stitch the bow to the top center of the Front Band. This will help cover the stitching from step 10.12.
10.14Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.13 for the other strap.
11 . Underwire11.1Insert the underwire into the casing under the Cup.
NOTE – The underwire will sit flush with the center front and finish approximately ½ inch shorter at the underarm point.
11.2Stitch along the end of the casing using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.2 for the other side of the Bra.
12 . OPTIONAL Side Stays12.1Insert a boning piece into the top of the casing sewn between the Front and Back Band.
Place your boning end cap over the cut edge of the boning. This will stop the boning poking into you.
12.2Stitch along the top of the casing using a narrow zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A narrow zig zag stitch set to a width of 2.0 mm and length of 1.0 mm is recommended for this step.
12.3Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.2 for the other side of the Bra.
13 . Hook and Eye13.0This step is the same whether you are using a 2 or 3 hook and eye adjustment.
13.1If you have bought continuous tape, cut the hook and eye to the correct length for your cup size.
NOTE – We recommend using 1.5 inches wide for cups AA – F and 2 hook/eye adjustments. For cups G – M use 2.2 inch wide and 3 hook/eye adjustments.
13.2With right sides facing up, sandwich the left Back Band inside the eye tape and pin.
13.3Stitch using a narrow zig zag stitch.
13.4OPTIONAL – Use a narrow zig zag stitch to finish the edges of the eye tape if needed.
13.5With the wrong side of the bra facing up and the hooks facing up, sandwich the right Back Band inside the hook tape and pin.
13.6Stitch using a narrow zig zag stitch.
13.7OPTIONAL – Use a narrow zig zag stitch to finish the edge of the hook tape if needed.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Bianca Bra is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbiancabra.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBianca Bra
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
The underwired Bianca Bra with optional lining is here to support you. With full coverage and optional foam padding, the bra provides a gentle lift yet superb support. The stretch cups fit to your bust, while the roundness adds shape without adding bulk. With a back hook and eye closure, adjustable straps, optional power bar and optional side stays, this bra offers you all the support you need. The edges are finished off beautifully with picot elastic and an optional bow at the front. Add the optional overlay and bow for a little something extra. Why not pair it with the Bianca Underwear for the perfect lingerie set.
SizingSize Range
Cups: 28AA - 48M
Size Chart
This pattern has been designed to fit the following sizes:
Band size
Cup Size
28
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
30
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
32
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
34
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
36
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
38
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
40
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
42
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
44
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
46
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
48
aa
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
I
j
k
l
m
This chart shows the sister sizes. This will help you find your correct fit.
Measuring
You will need to determine your band size (underbust – yellow line) and cup size (full bust – blue line). We recommend measuring wearing an underwired supportive bra without padding.
The band sizes range from 28 to 48 inches in increments of two e.g. 28, 30, 32 etc.
The difference between your underbust and full bust measurement will determine your cup size. Cup sizes range from AA – M. Please see the chart below (in INCHES) on how to calculate your cup size.
Cup size
Difference from underbust
AA
0.5
A
1.0
B
2.0
C
3.0
D
4.0
E
5.0
F
6.0
G
7.0
H
8.0
I
9.0
J
10.0
K
11.0
L
12.0
M
13.0
Watch our video on how to measure your band and cup size.
Materials and ToolsMain Fabric – Your bra fabric needs to be a 2-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. The stretch should run opposite to the grainline on the pattern pieces. Best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. Great examples are cotton lycra, medium weight jersey, viscose, ponte, scuba, stretch lace, stretch velour, and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your Bra maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns back to its original size.
Lining – You will need to line the Cups of the Bra. You can line these using the same fabric as your main or any 2-way stretch/knit fabric with at least 40% stretch. You can also use a prefinished light weight foam padding/cut and sew foam as the lining. This will give a push-up effect and give additional support.
OPTIONAL Power Mesh – For additional support you can add a 4-way stretch power mesh to your Cup Lining or add a “power bar”. A “power bar” is a support panel that runs down the side of the cup. This will lift and support the bust. If you would like to line your Back Band pieces with power mesh you will need approximately a fat half for all sizes.
OPTIONAL Overlay – You can add an overlay to the outer of the Bra. You will need a 4-way stretch fabric with good recovery e.g. lace, mesh.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
OPTIONAL Power mesh
OPTIONAL Overlay
AA – M
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Underwire Casing
This is used as an enclosure for the underwires, while stabilizing the cup to frame seam. We suggest a plush underwire casing as it is softer against the body, as well as strong and durable. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes. If you are adding optional side stays you use this casing for the boning as well.Underwires
Underwires support the breasts by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the band. By using them you will get the best lift and support possible from your bra.Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. We recommend using fully coated steel flat wires. You will need 1x pair Full Cup Underwire – see chart below for sizing. Please note this is a suggested length/size. Please adjust according to your personal shape and fit.
Underwire size chart
Cup
UK
USA
Length (in INCHES)
AA
1
30
6.1
A
2
32
6.7
B
3
34
7.3
C
4
36
8.0
D
5
38
8.5
E
6
40
9.1
F
7
42
9.7
G
8
44
11.0
H
9
46
11.6
I
10
48
12.3
J
11
50
13.0
K
12
52
13.7
L
13
54
14.4
M
14
56
15.1
Strap Elastic
The bra straps keep the bra in a stable position on the body. It is usually shiny on one side and plush on the side facing the body facing. The bra straps need to have a firm stretch with a maximum 50% stretch.The width of the strap elastic will vary by cup size. Cup sizes G – M may need to use wider elastic for increased stability. A wider strap will also create visual harmony with the rest of the bra. We suggest the following widths per cup size: Cups AA – F use ⅜ inch wide or Cups G – M use ¾ inch wide.
See the cut chart below for lengths. Approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
Rings and Sliders
These are used to make your straps adjustable. You will need 1x O-Ring/Slider pair the same width as your strap elastic. Check your rings and sliders match the width of your strap elastic.Underbust Band Elastic
Use a soft plush backed lingerie elastic as this will feel more comfortable against your skin. See the cut chart below for elastic lengths – approximately 1 ½ yards will be enough for all sizes. We suggest the following widths per cup size Cups AA – F use ⅜ inch wide or Cups G – M use ½ inch wide.Cup and Underarm Elastic
Lingerie elastic usually has a decorative “picot” edge on one side and a flat finish on the opposite side. You will need ⅜ inch wide Picot Elastic. See the cut chart below for elastic lengths – approximately 1 ½ yards for cup sizes AA – F and approximately 1.75 yards for cup sizes G – M.Hook and Eye Closure
The bra is finished with a hook and eye adjustment. You can buy this as a continuous tape or pre-cut. We recommend the following sizes with finished edges in order to work with our band sizes and seam allowances.- Cups AA – F use 1.5 inch wide 2 hook/eye adjustments
- Cups G – M use 2.2 inch wide 3 hook/eye adjustments
OPTIONAL Side Stays
Adding optional side supports to your Bra will support the sides of your breasts. This will help prevent them from spilling sideways and could make them look smaller. You will also need casing (details listed above). You will need 12mm plastic boning and 2x 12mm boning end caps. See chart below for cut lengths (in INCHES).Boning Chart
(Cut 2)Cup
Length
AA
3.0
A
3.2
B
3.3
C
3.5
D
3.6
E
3.7
F
4.0
G
3.4
H
3.5
I
3.7
J
4.0
K
4.1
L
4.4
M
4.6
Other Materials
- OPTIONAL Decorative bows – 3x small lingerie satin bow
- Matching thread
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, optional zipper foot, tailors chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure or ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
