Big Collar Add on Pack

You will need your original pattern bodice pieces and use the provided templates to redraw the neckline onto your original pattern pieces (Front and Back). If your original bodice piece is wider, extend the neckline from the template to meet the pattern piece. Then, using these new pattern pieces, cut your bodice out. Follow your original pattern instructions for the bodice construction, stopping before you attach the collar. Then, follow the cutting instructions and steps you need for your chosen collar style below, before finishing your garment.

• NOTE – The Front & Back Templates are the same for the flat or standing collars.
• NOTE – The Front template provided has a fold over placket. Your pattern may have a separate pattern piece for this, which means the front neckline will finish shorter on your original pattern, than on the template.

Follow the instructions below to adjust your original bodice neckline pieces.

Place your original Back pattern piece onto a piece of paper. Draw around the pattern piece.

NOTE – If you are sewing a front fastening garment, you will need to use that cut line and mirror the Back Template piece, creating one full piece.

Place the Back Template (shown in green) on top of the drawn pattern piece, matching the center back seam (1).

Move the Back Template up, lining up the outer point of the shoulders (2) together.

Draw the new shoulder and neckline using the Back Template, keeping the armscye and rest of the original bodice piece as is.

Repeat with your original front pattern piece and the Front Template piece.

Cut these new pieces out, using them as your new bodice pieces to make a muslin (a test garment out of inexpensive fabric) with your chosen Collar to check the fit, before creating your final garment.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

NOTE – You will need to mark the notch on the Front template onto your adjusted pattern piece.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing to the wrong side of your Collar pieces.

TIP – Trim half the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing pieces before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

This step is the same for the narrow or wide option.

Snip at the notches on one side of the Collar, cutting up to ½ inch.

NOTE – Be careful when cutting that you do not cut past the ½ inch seam allowance, or you will have a gap in your Collar.

Lay the Collar wrong side facing up and fold it ½ inch to the wrong side between the notches. Press, creating a memory hem. 

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Collar. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Collar hem later when it is stitched to the bodice.

Fold the Collar in half widthwise, right sides together. Pin the short edge on one side, up to the pattern marking. Pin the other short and long edge up to the pattern marking. The Collar will be pinned together along all edges with a gap between the pattern markings.

Stitch along either side of the pattern markings, using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a gap between the pattern markings in the center. 

TIP – When you reach the corners keep your needle down, lift your presser foot and turn your Collar. 

Snip the corners and trim the seam allowance in half to reduce bulk.

Turn the Collar right way out through the gap between the pattern markings. If you have a preferred method, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it. 

On one side open the short edges seam allowance stitched in step 1.3. Insert the top of a chopstick into the stitching. Push the Collar over the chopstick, pushing it all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.

Press.

Find and mark the center of the raw edge of the Collar and the Back neckline.

Place the non-pressed edge of the Collar onto the wrong side of the bodice, matching raw edges and center points. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Collar up. Press the seam allowance up, into the Collar.  

Take the pressed edge of the Collar and place it over the seam allowance. Pin.

NOTE – You are pinning on the right side of the bodice.

You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Collar. This creates a neat and pretty finish.   

Your Pussy Bow Collar is finished!

Continue following your original pattern instructions to finish your garment.

The OPTIONAL Frill can be added to the Curved or Pointed Flat Collars in either width.

Fold the Frill in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin the long raw edge.

TIP – Press the fold if you would prefer a less puffy look to your Frill.

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the long raw edge.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Frill.

Now we are going to attach the Frill to the edge of Collar. 

BACK CLOSURE OPTION – Lay a Collar right side facing up. Place the Frill ½ inch away from the straight edge (center back), right sides together, placing the short edge of the Frill at the outer edge of the Collar.

FRONT CLOSURE OPTION – Lay a Collar right side facing up. Place the Frill ½ inch away from the curved edge, right sides together, placing the short edge of the Frill at the outer edge.

Angle the Frill and continue pinning along the outer edge of the Collar. 

NOTE – You are attaching the gathered edge of the Frill to the outer curved edge of the Collar. This will be the bottom edge of the Collar.

When you get to the other side of the Collar, angle the short edge of the Frill like you did above.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers, so it looks evenly gathered. Pin all along the gathered edge to keep the gathers in place. 

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

TIP – If your fabric frays, zigzag stitch / serge the edges to help prevent fraying.

If you are sewing a back closure Flat Collar, follow below. If you are sewing a front closure Flat Collar, skip to step 4.

If you have a blouse or dress with a back fastening, follow this step. This step is only for the Flat Collars – curved or pointed, narrow or wide. If you are sewing a Standing Collar, skip to step 5.

This step is the same for the Curved or Pointed, narrow or wide.

Place two Collars right sides together. Pin the straight short side (center back) and the outer curved edges.

NOTE – If you have added the OPTIONAL Frill it will be sandwiched between the two pieces.

NOTE – We are showing a Collar with OPTIONAL Frill, however the steps are the same without the OPTIONAL Frill.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Snip the corners and trim the seam allowance in half to reduce bulk.

Turn right side out, pushing out the corners. 

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners.  You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

NOTE – We are showing a Curved Collar with OPTIONAL Frill in these steps, however the process is the same with or without a Frill.

Press

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Collar approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

OPTIONAL – Baste the inner edge using ¼ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 for the second set of mirror Collar pieces.

Find and mark the center of Front neckline.

NOTE – You need to finish the center back opening before you attach your Collar.

Place a Collar onto the wrong side of the Front, matching the curved edge of the Collar to the center neckline. Pin.

Pin the straight short edge to the center back. Continue pinning the Collar to the neckline.

NOTE – Pin along the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.

Repeat steps 3.10 to 3.11 to pin the second Collar to the other side of the neckline, overlapping the Collars at the front slightly.

Stitch along the neckline using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Measure the neckline and add 2 inches. Cut a piece of binding to this length.

Open up the binding. Leaving a 1 ½ inch tail on the left side and ½ inch on the right side, place it along the neckline, right sides together with the Collar, matching raw edges. Pin.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Fold the binding over to the right side of the bodice, folding it over the seam allowance, enclosing the raw edges. Pin.

You will now “stitch in the ditch”, stitching directly along the folded edge of the binding. This creates a neat and pretty finish. 

Flip Your Collar over the neckline to the right side of the bodice. Press.

Take the binding tail on the left side and fold it in half. Push the raw edge between the bodice and the Collar. Pin.

Stitch across the Collar to secure the binding raw edge.

Close the back of the bodice and check where you would like the button to sit. Make sure the loop will hold the garment closed once buttoned.

Hand stitch the button onto the right side of the bodice using matching thread.

TIP – For hand stitching the button without a visible

knot start by knotting the thread at the back of the

button and going down through the top of the

Facing. Bring the needle back up between the button and the Bodice and create a knot under the button by passing the needle through under the button to make a loop, catch with the needle and pull tight. Repeat and trim the tail under the button.

Your back closure Curved Collar is finished!

Continue following your original pattern instructions to finish your garment.

Place the Collars right sides together. Pin along the outer curved edge.

NOTE – We are showing a Collar without the OPTIONAL Frill, however the steps are the same with the OPTIONAL Frill.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Clip along the curve, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

This will create a smother seam when you turn your Collar.

TIP – Use pinking shears to trim the curved seam allowance. 

Turn right side out, pushing out the corners. 

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners.  You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Collar approximately ⅛ inch from the edge.

Baste the inner curved edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Find and mark the center of the Collar and the Back neckline.

Place the Collar onto the bodice right sides together, matching centers. Pin.

Take the ends of the Collar and pin them at the pattern markings on the front neckline. 

Close your garment and check the top button placement. The Collar shouldn’t go over your placket/button stand. You want the ends of the Collar to sit ½ inch away from the center front.

Continue pinning along the neckline.

NOTE – Pin along the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Measure the neckline and add 2 inches. Cut a piece of binding to this length.

Open up the binding. Leaving a 1 inch tail on either side, place it along the neckline, right sides together with the Collar, matching raw edges. Pin.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance in half to reduce bulk.

Fold the binding over to the wrong side of the bodice, folding it over the seam allowance, enclosing the raw edges. Pin.

You will now “stitch in the ditch”, stitching directly along the folded edge of the binding. This creates a neat and pretty finish. 

Fold the tail of the binding on one side over to the wrong side of the bodice.

Flip the binding over the neckline to the wrong side of the bodice. 

Pin.

Repeat steps 4.18 to 4.21 on the other side.

You will now “stitch in the ditch”, stitching directly along the folded edge of the binding. This creates a neat and pretty finish. 

Press your Collar down.

Continue following your original pattern instructions to finish your garment.

This step is the same for the curved or pointed, narrow or wide.

Place the Collars right sides together. Pin the outer edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk. 

For the curved Collar, snip into the seam allowance around the curved edge.

Turn right side out and press.

TIP – For the pointed Collar, use a blunt object, like a chopstick to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the outer edge ⅛ inch from the edge.

OPTIONAL – Baste the inner bottom edges of the Collar together using a ¼ inch seam allowance

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Press the bottom edge of the non-interfaced Collar Stand ½ inch to the wrong side along the long bottom curved edge, creating a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Collar. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Collar hem later when it is stitched to the bodice.

Find and mark the center of the Collar and Collar Stand.

Find and mark the center of the Collar and Collar Stand.

Unfold the pressed seam from step 5.8.

Starting at the end of the Collar Stand, baste together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

With right sides together, sandwich the Collar between the Collar Stands, matching the interfaced Collar Stand to the interfaced Collar. The Collar Stand notches will match the end of the Collar. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves, taking care to not snip into the stitches.

Turn right side out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Collar Stand ⅛ inch from the edge.

Place a pin at the center of the raw edge of the interfaced Collar Stand and at the center of the back bodice.

Matching center points and ends, right sides together, pin the Collar Stand to the bodice.

NOTE – Pin along the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar Stand up when the garment is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the Collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Do not snip further than halfway into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your Collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.

Press the bodice seam allowance up into the Collar.

Fold the Collar Stand down over the seam allowance and pin the pressed seam allowance in place. 

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance all the way around the Collar Stand, enclosing the seam allowance into the Collar.

Your Standing Collar is finished!

Continue following your original pattern instructions to finish your garment.

Fold the Frill Collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin one short edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip the corner to reduce bulk.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 on the other short edge.

Turn right side out, pushing out the corners. Press. 

TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners.  

Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the long raw edge.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.

To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.

TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!

Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Frill.

Press the bottom edge of the non-interfaced Collar Stand ½ inch to the wrong side along the long bottom curved edge, creating a memory hem.

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Collar. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Collar hem later when it is stitched to the bodice.

Lay your Collar Stand, right side up. Place the gathered edge of the Frill onto the raw top edge of the Collar Stand, matching the ends of the Frill to the pattern markings.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers, so it looks evenly gathered.

Pin.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Place the second Collar Stand right side down, sandwiching the Frill. Pin the top raw edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Trim the seam allowance in half to reduce bulk.

Turn right side out and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Collar Stand ⅛ inch from the top edge.

Find and mark the center of the Collar Stand and at the center of the back neckline.

Matching center points and ends, right sides together, pin the raw edge of the Collar Stand to the bodice.

NOTE – Pin along the ½ inch seam line, rather than the raw edges.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

The ½ inch seam allowance helps the Collar Stand up when the garment is complete. However, it can also make the fitting of the collar a little tricky with some fabrics. Most woven fabrics will stretch slightly so you can ease them on. If yours does not, make a few small snips into the seam allowance to help open it up. Take care when doing this to go no further than ½ way into the seam allowance (maximum ¼ inch), otherwise you could end up with a hole in your collar as the fabric moves while attaching it.

Press the seam allowance up, into the Collar.  

Fold the Collar Stand over the seam and pin from the right side. 

You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Collar Stand. This creates a neat and pretty finish.   

Your Frilled Collar is finished!

Continue following your original pattern instructions to finish your garment.