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Home / Womens / Garments, Jackets and Coats, Outerwear
This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
7
Women's Bomber Jacket
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Sew up some warm, sporty casual style with the Bomber Jacket pattern. Features a zip front with raglan sleeves and optional welt pockets. Includes sizes XXS-5XL
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size from the chest measurements. If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct chest measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct hip size.
- Bust adjustment – The ladies sizes are designed with a C cup bust (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). Given that the Bomber Jacket is loose fitting, it will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well in it. However, if you have over a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow our free FBA tutorial.
- Height adjustment – The ladies Bomber Jacket is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you may wish to make the following adjustments:
- Follow this tutorial to adjust the jacket
- As this pattern has a raglan sleeve you will need to follow this tutorial to adjust it
- NOTE – If you are removing height by more than 2 inches, you may need to shorten your zipper. If you are adding more than 2 inches, you will need a longer zipper depending on length added.
- Sleeve length – Compare the finished measurements of the sleeve to your model’s measurements. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, add/remove length halfway down the sleeve.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting, so you’ll be unlikely to need to make any adjustments. After you’ve made your muslin, if you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller refer to our adjustment tutorial here.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this jacket :
- Use an inexpensive woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the Front, Back and 1xSleeve. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric.
- Suitable fabrics including lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. Fabrics that are smoother will slide over shirts a bit more easily than a quilting cotton.
- Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining.
- 1x Open end zipper:
- XXS – XL: 1 x 18 inches
- XXL – 5XL: 1 x 20 inches
- ¾ inch wide Elastic for hem and cuff – approximately 2.1 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Light to mid weight Interfacing – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Bottom Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Cuff – Fabric cut 2
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Neckband – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – You can use the same fabric for your Main and Lining.
- OPTIONAL Single Welt Pockets
- Pocket – Fabric cut 2
- Pocket Bag – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
- Front – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Lining: Front – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Lining cut 1 on fold
- Bottom Band – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Cuff – Fabric cut 2
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Neckband – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- NOTE – You can use the same fabric for your Main and Lining.
- OPTIONAL Single Welt Pockets
- Pocket – Fabric cut 2
- Pocket Bag – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
Project OverviewBomber Jacket
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
The zip front Bomber Jacket can be lined or unlined. The raglan sleeves and hem are elasticated for ease of movement. Add optional welt pockets for a casual sporty look. Wear it with a pair of Jo Jeans and a blouse for an effortlessly elegant look.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Hip
Bicep
Cuff
Sleeve length (incl cuff)
Center front length (incl cuff)
XXS
35.5
38.0
15.5
9.6
26.7
18.0
XS
37.5
40.0
16.2
10.0
27.0
18.0
S
39.5
41.0
17.0
10.5
27.1
18.0
M
41.5
43.0
18.0
11.0
27.2
18.0
L
43.5
45.0
19.0
11.2
27.3
18.0
XL
46.5
48.0
20.0
11.6
27.5
18.0
XXL
49.5
51.0
21.0
12.0
27.6
20.0
3XL
52.5
55.0
22.0
12.5
27.7
20.0
4XL
55.5
58.0
23.0
13.0
28.0
20.0
5XL
58.5
63.0
24.1
13.2
28.1
20.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsMain fabric: The exterior of the jacket needs to be a light to medium weight woven. Cotton, cotton poplin, gabardine drill, twill, linen, satin, light weight denim would be perfect.
OPTIONAL Lining fabric:
Do not use a knit/stretch fabric for any part of the Bomber Jacket.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – S
1.75
0.75
M
2.00
0.75
L – XL
2.00
1.00
XXL
2.25
1.25
3XL
2.25
1.50
4XL – 5XL
2.50
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – XL
1.50
0.75
XXL – 3XL
1.75
0.75
4XL
2.00
1.00
5XL
2.00
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, zipper foot, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Bomber OPTIONAL
LiningOPTIONAL
Welt pocketXXS – S 2-28 28-31 3-4 M 2-28 24-25, 28-31 3-4 L – 5XL 2-28 23-25, 28-31 3-4 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Bomber OPTIONAL
LiningOPTIONAL
Welt pocketXXS – M 2-28 28-31 3-4 L 2-28 25, 28-31 3-4 XL 2-28 24-25, 28-31 3-4 XXL – 3XL 2-28 23-25, 28-31 3-4 4XL – 5XL 2-28 23-25, 28-31 3-4 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Hem band (Cut 1)
Hem band elastic (Cut 1)
Cuff (Cut 2)
Cuff elastic
(Cut 2)
OPTIONAL Welt pocket (Cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
XXS
3.00
36.00
0.75
27.00
3.00
11.00
0.75
7.70
2.00
6.00
XS
3.00
38.00
0.75
29.00
3.00
11.20
0.75
8.10
2.00
6.00
S
3.00
39.00
0.75
30.00
3.00
11.60
0.75
8.50
2.00
6.00
M
3.00
41.00
0.75
32.00
3.00
12.00
0.75
9.10
2.00
6.00
L
3.00
43.00
0.75
34.00
3.00
12.40
0.75
9.50
2.00
6.00
XL
3.00
46.00
0.75
37.00
3.00
13.00
0.75
10.10
2.00
6.00
XXL
3.00
49.00
0.75
40.00
3.00
13.20
0.75
10.50
2.00
6.00
3XL
3.00
53.00
0.75
44.00
3.00
13.60
0.75
11.10
2.00
6.00
4XL
3.00
57.00
0.75
48.00
3.00
14.10
0.75
11.50
2.00
6.00
5XL
3.00
61.00
0.75
52.00
3.00
14.40
0.75
12.10
2.00
6.00
Cutting Checklist:
Unlined OPTION:
Lined OPTION:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to the Neckband Lining and both Front Facing pieces.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the Back and Front along the necklines.
- OPTIONAL SINGLE WELT POCKETS – Fold a Single Welt Pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Trim and clip corners. Turn right side out and press. Draw a line on the wrong side of the Single Welt Pocket, ¼ inch from the raw edge. Lay one Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Single Welt Pocket at the pattern marking, right side facing down, matching the raw edge and corners to the pattern marking. Stitch along the marked line. Measure the length of the Single Welt Pocket piece. Draw a line ¼ inch from the raw edge of the Pocket Bag, the length of the Single Welt Pocket. Repeat on all three Pocket Bag pieces. OPTIONAL: Overlock the curved outside edges of the Pocket Bags. Place the Pocket Bag on top of the Single Welt Pocket, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Stitch along the marked line. Place a mirror Pocket Bag onto the Front, right side down, matching the raw edges of both Pocket Bags. Stitch along the marked line. Flip the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Draw a line down the middle of the two lines, stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitching. Draw a line from each corner towards the center line, by ¼ inch. Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut into the Main Front only, along the central line and into the corners. Press the little triangles open and flat. Pull the Pocket Bag pieces through the hole, to the wrong side of the Main Front. Place the two Pocket Bags right sides together, matching all raw edges. Pin together along the raw edges, pinning the little triangle on each side. Pin the little triangle to the second Pocket Bag. Stitch the triangle at both ends. Stitch around the Pocket Bags. Trim. Press. Stitch around the Pocket Bag a second time. From the right side of the Main Front, pin each short edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Edgestitch each side, stitching close to the edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Repeat for the second Single Welt Pocket.
- FRONT FACING – Press the outer curve of Front Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch ⅛ inch. Press short straight edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Repeat. Topstitch ⅛ inch. Repeat for the other Front Facing.
- ZIPPER – Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the zipper, right sides facing down, matching the straight edge. Place the Front Facing onto the zip, right side facing down, matching the straight raw edges. Stitch. Flip the Front Facing over to wrong side and unzip the zipper. Place the unstitched side of the zipper onto the second Main Front. Repeat to sandwich the zipper between the other side of the Main Front and Front Facing.
- SLEEVES – Stitch the Sleeves to the Front and Back using a French seam.
- NECKBAND – Place the Main Neckband and Neckband Lining pieces right sides together, matching the inside curved edge. Stitch. Trim the seam. Snip into the seam. Turn and press. Find and mark the center of the Neckband and the Jacket neckline edge. Flip the Front Facing pieces out the way. Place the Neckband Lining onto the jacket, right sides together, matching center points and raw edges. Pin at the center. Match the ends of the Neckband to either end of the neckline at the ½ inch seam allowance. Pin. Continue pinning at the ½ inch seam allowance. Flip the Front Facing over, right sides together. Match the neckline edge of the Front Facing with the Jacket neckline and Neckband. Pin. Repeat on the other side of the Main Front. Stitch along the entire neckline. Trim the inside seam. Fold the outer seam allowance over the inner seam allowance. Press. Flip the folded seam allowance over again to the wrong side of the Main Front . Press. Edgestitch. Turn the Front Facing over to the wrong side on either side of the Neckband. Press. Take the short edge of the Facing and place it against the seam allowance of the armscye. Topstitch.
- SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seams together using a French seam.
- BOTTOM BAND – Find and mark the center of a short side of the Bottom Band. Place elastic onto wrong side of Bottom Band, at the halfway mark, matching raw edges. Baste. Repeat to attach the other side of the elastic to the other side of the Bottom Band. Fold Bottom Band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Baste each short side. Baste the bottom long edge, pulling elastic taut as you sew. Lay Main Front and Front Facing open, right sides facing up. Place Bottom Band onto the bottom flap on Main Front, placing the folded edge ½ inch away from the bottom raw edge, matching short straight sides. Pin. Measure ½ inch from the short side and ½ inch from the folded edge of Bottom Band. Stitch. Turn the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Draw a line from the short straight edge of the bottom flap, up to the top of your stitch line. Cut. Repeat to attach the other side of Bottom Band to the other side of Main Front. Find the center of Main Back and the center of the Bottom Band. Pin together at the center, right sides together. Stretch the Band to fit the bottom edge of the jacket. Stitch. Fold Front Facing onto Main Front, wrong sides together. Press. Stitch. Repeat on the other side.
- CUFFS – Press one long edge ½ inch of Cuff to wrong side. Unfold. Fold Cuff in half, length wise, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Press. Unfold. Fold Cuff in half width wise, right sides together, matching short sides. Stitch. Press seam open. Mark quarters of Cuff and Sleeve. Place Cuff onto Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Stitch. Press seam towards Cuff. Fold Cuff. Press if needed. Pin. Stitch in the ditch, leaving a 1-inch gap. ALTERNATIVE: Topstitch Cuff. Thread elastic through, overlapping by ½ inch. Stitch. Let elastic slip back inside. Stitch gap closed. Repeat with the other Cuff and Sleeve.
- OPTIONAL SINGLE WELT POCKETS – Fold a Single Welt Pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Trim and clip corners. Turn right side out and press. Draw a line on the wrong side of the Single Welt Pocket, ¼ inch from the raw edge. Lay one Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Single Welt Pocket at the pattern marking, right side facing down, matching the raw edge and corners to the pattern marking. Stitch along the marked line. Measure the length of the Single Welt Pocket piece. Draw a line ¼ inch from the raw edge of the Pocket Bag, the length of the Single Welt Pocket. Repeat on all three Pocket Bag pieces. OPTIONAL: Overlock the curved outside edges of the Pocket Bags. Place the Pocket Bag on top of the Single Welt Pocket, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Stitch along the marked line. Place a mirror Pocket Bag onto the Front, right side down, matching the raw edges of both Pocket Bags. Stitch along the marked line. Flip the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Draw a line down the middle of the two lines, stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitching. Draw a line from each corner towards the center line, by ¼ inch. Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut into the Main Front only, along the central line and into the corners. Press the little triangles open and flat. Pull the Pocket Bag pieces through the hole, to the wrong side of the Main Front. Place the two Pocket Bags right sides together, matching all raw edges. Pin together along the raw edges, pinning the little triangle on each side. Pin the little triangle to the second Pocket Bag. Stitch the triangle at both ends. Stitch around the Pocket Bags. Trim. Press. Stitch around the Pocket Bag a second time. From the right side of the Main Front, pin each short edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Edgestitch each side, stitching close to the edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Repeat for the second Single Welt Pocket.
- FRONT FACING – Place the Front Facing onto the Front Lining, right sides together, matching the outer curved edge. Stitch. Press the seam allowance towards the Front Lining. Repeat to attach the other Front Lining and Front Facing.
- ZIPPER – Separate the zipper into two pieces. Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the zipper, right sides facing down, matching the straight edge. Stitch. Repeat to attach the other side of the zipper to the other side of the Front Lining.
- SLEEVES – Place the Main Front and Main Sleeve right sides together, matching fronts. Stitch. Press seam open. Repeat to attach the Main Sleeve to the Main Back.
- NECKBAND – Place the Main Neckband and Neckband Lining pieces right sides together, matching the inside curved edge. Stitch. Trim the seam. Snip into the seam. Turn and press. Find and mark the center of the Neckband and the Jacket neckline edge. Place the Neckband Lining onto the jacket, right sides together, matching center points and raw edges. Pin at the center. Match the ends of the Neckband to either end of the neckline at the ½ inch seam allowance. Pin. Continue pinning at the ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch along the entire neckline.
- SIDE SEAMS – Match the side seams, right sides together of the Jacket Lining. Stitch. Press seam open. Repeat for the other side seam, leaving a 6 inch gap. Repeat for the Main Jacket side seams.
- BOTTOM BAND – Find and mark the center of a short side of the Bottom Band. Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Bottom Band, at the halfway mark, matching raw edges. Baste. Repeat to attach the other side of the elastic to the other side of the Bottom Band. Fold Bottom Band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Baste each short side. Baste the bottom long edge, pulling the elastic taut as you sew. Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the Bottom Band onto the bottom flap on the Main Front, placing the folded edge ½ inch away from the bottom raw edge, matching short straight sides. Pin. Measure ½ inch from the short side and ½ inch from the folded edge of the Bottom Band. Stitch. Turn the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Draw a line from the short straight edge of the bottom flap, up to the top of your stitch line. Cut. Repeat to attach the other side of the Bottom Band to the other side of the Main Front. Find the center of the Main Back and the center of the Bottom Band. Pin together at the center, right sides together. Stretch the Band to fit the bottom edge of the jacket. Stitch.
- CUFFS – Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short sides. Stitch. Press seam open. Fold the Cuff in half, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff (raw edge) and the Sleeve. Place the Cuff over the Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Stitch, leaving a 1 inch gap. Thread the elastic through the Cuff, overlapping ends by ½ inch. Stitch. Let elastic slip back inside Cuff. Stitch gap closed. Repeat with the other Cuff and Sleeve.
- ATTACHING MAIN AND LINING – Place the Main Jacket and Jacket Lining, right sides together, matching the Front Facing to the Main Front on either side and the necklines. Stitch. Lay the Jacket right sides facing up, open and flat. Lift the Bottom Band and fold it onto the Main Jacket, right sides together, parallel to the zipper. Take the short edge of the Bottom Band corner and flip it over onto the Facing, turning it 90 degrees. Align the short raw edges of the Bottom Band to the short side edge of the Facing. Also align the bottom edge of the Facing to the bottom edge of the Main Jacket. Stitch along the bottom edge and up the side of the Facing using ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the stitch line of your Bottom Band. Flip the Bottom Band up in between the Main and Lining. Repeat for the other side. Place the Main and Lining right sides together, matching the bottom edge. Stitch. Fold the Cuff inside the right side of the Main Sleeve. Take the Sleeve Lining and slide it inside the Main Sleeve, matching the raw edge of the Sleeve Lining to the raw edge of the Cuff. Match the side seams. Stitch. Repeat for the second Sleeve. Pull jacket through gap. Close gap using a slipstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Topstitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing – UNLINED OPTION:
Sewing – LINED OPTION:
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
If you are adding OPTIONAL Welt Pockets, transfer the pocket markings to the Main Front pieces.
0.2Interfacing
Use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Neckband Lining and both Front Facing pieces.
TIP – Cut ¼ inch off the outer curved edge and short straight edge of the Front Facing. This will make it easier to fold the edges over.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t staystitch, the neckline of the jacket is likely to stretch and then the Neckband won’t fit properly when you try to attach it.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment. You will staystitch using a regular length straight stitch and stay inside the ½ inch seam allowance as these stitches won’t be removed.
Following the direction of the arrows, staystitch the Back, Front and Sleeves along the necklines.
1 . OPTIONAL Single Welt PocketsSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
1.1Fold a Single Welt Pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin either side.
1.2Stitch both short edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners to prevent bulk.
1.4Turn the Single Welt Pocket piece right side out and press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
1.5Draw a line on the wrong side of the Single Welt Pocket, ¼ inch from the raw edge, using tailors chalk/fabric pen.
NOTE – If you are using a directional fabric check that your fabric is facing the correct way.
1.6Lay one Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Single Welt Pocket at the pattern marking, right side facing down, matching the raw edge and corners to the pattern marking (shown in red in the photo). Pin.
TIP – The raw edges of the welt pocket must be facing towards the side seam.
1.7Stitch along the marked line using ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.8Measure the length of the Single Welt Pocket. Draw a line ¼ inch from the raw edge on the wrong side of the Pocket Bag, the length of the Single Welt Pocket, using tailors chalk/fabric pen.
Repeat on all three Pocket Bag pieces.
OPTIONAL: Overlock the curved outside edges of the Pocket Bags.
1.9Place the Pocket Bag on top of the Single Welt Pocket, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Pin.
1.10Stitch along the marked line using ¼ inch seam allowance. You will be stitching directly over the stitch line on the Single Welt Pocket from step 1.7.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Pocket Bag piece.
1.11Place a mirror Pocket Bag onto the Front, right side down, matching the raw edges of both Pocket Bags. Pin.
1.12Stitch along the marked line using ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Pocket Bag piece.
1.13Flip the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Your two stitch lines should be ½ inch apart (step 1.10 and 1.12).
Draw a line down the middle of these two lines, using tailors chalk/fabric pen, stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitching.
Draw a line from each corner towards the center line, by ¼ inch.
1.14You will be cutting along the marks shown in red.
NOTE – You are only cutting along the center line between the corner markings, not through them.
Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut into the Main Front only, along the central line and into the corners. Cut as close as you can into the corners without cutting into the stitching.
1.15Press the little triangles open and flat.
1.16Pull the Pocket Bag pieces through the hole created in step 1.14, to the wrong side of the Main Front.
1.17Place the two Pocket Bags right sides together, matching all raw edges. Pin together along the raw edges, pinning the little triangle on each side.
Pin the little triangle to the second Pocket Bag (stitched in step 1.12).
1.18Using a zipper foot, stitch the triangle in place at both ends.
Then stitch around the Pocket Bags using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press.
1.19Stitch around the Pocket Bag a second time at the ½ inch seam allowance. This will reinforce your Pocket stitching, so it can take the weight of items being placed in here without the stitches breaking (e.g. phone, keys, hands, little person’s treasures!).
1.20From the right side of the Main Front, pin each short edge of the Single Welt Pocket.
1.21Edgestitch each side, stitching close to the edge of the Single Welt Pocket, to secure it in place.
TIP – Use matching thread so that your stitches aren’t visible.
1.22Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.21 for the second Single Welt Pocket.
2 . Front Facing2.1Fold the outer curve of the Front Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Fold another ¼ inch, enclosing the raw edge of the first fold. Press.
2.2Topstitch ⅛ inch away from the folded edge.
2.3Fold the short straight edge of the Front Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Fold another ¼ inch, enclosing the raw edge of the first fold in step 2.1. Press.
2.4Topstitch ⅛ inch away from the folded edge.
2.5Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for the other Front Facing piece.
3 . Zipper3.1Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the zipper, right sides facing down, matching the straight edge.
NOTE – The zipper will finish ½ inch from the bottom edge.
3.2Place the Front Facing onto the zip, right side facing down, matching the straight raw edges. Pin.
The zipper will now be sandwiched between the Front and Front Facing.
3.3Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a zipper foot.
Flip the Front Facing over to the wrong side and unzip the zipper.
3.4Place the unstitched side of the zipper onto the second Main Front.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 to sandwich the zipper between the other side of the Main Front and Front Facing.
4 . Sleeves4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place a Sleeve onto a Front piece, right sides together, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Sleeve. Repeat to attach the back of the Sleeve to the Back. Repeat to stitch the second Sleeve to the Front and Back. Then skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have a beautiful finishing on the inside of the Jacket. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
4.1Place a Sleeve onto a Front piece, wrong sides together, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the Front piece.
4.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.3Carefully trim the seam allowance approximately in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
4.4Turn so the right sides are facing, press the side seam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances towards the Sleeve before turning the jacket right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowances sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
4.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
4.6Press the seam allowance towards the Sleeve.
4.7Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.6 to stitch the Sleeve to the Back.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.7 for the second Sleeve.
5 . Neckband5.1Place the Main Neckband and Neckband Lining pieces right sides together, matching the inside curved edge. Pin.
5.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
Snip into the seam allowance every half inch, just up to, but not through the stitch line.
5.4Turn right sides out and press.
5.5Find and mark the center of the Neckband and the neckline edge of the jacket.
5.6Place the Neckband onto the jacket, right sides together, with the Neckband Lining uppermost, matching center points and raw edges. Pin at the center.
NOTE – The Neckband Lining is the interfaced piece. This will be closest to the wearer’s neck when worn.
5.7Match the ends of the Neckband to either end of the neckline at the ½ inch seam allowance. Pin.
5.8Continue pinning the Neckband to the neckline at the ½ inch seam allowance. Use as many pins as needed.
5.9Flip the Front Facing over, right sides together.
Match the neckline edge of the Front Facing with the Jacket neckline and Neckband. Pin.
NOTE – The Neckband will be sandwiched in between the Front Facing and the Main Front.
5.10Repeat step 5.9 on the other side of the Main Front.
5.11Starting at one end, stitch along the entire neckline, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Trim the inner seam allowance approximately in half.
5.12Fold the outer seam allowance over the inner seam allowance, so that the raw edge of the inside seam allowance is covered. Press.
5.13Turn the outer seam allowance over again, hiding all raw edges inside. Press.
5.14Edgestitch the seam allowance as close to the folded edge as possible.
5.15Turn the Front Facing over to the wrong side on either side of the Neckband. Press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick to push out the corners.
5.16Take the short edge of the Facing and place it against the seam allowance of the armscye. Pin.
5.17Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check that you are stitching the Front Facing to the armscye seam allowance only, as you will see the stitching on the right side of the Jacket if you don’t.
6 . Side Seams6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the side seams, right sides together, using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to the back. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below to stitch the side seams using French seams.
6.1Stitch the side seams together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 4.1 to 4.5.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press the seam towards the Back.
6.2Repeat step 6.1 to stitch the other side seam.
7 . Bottom Band7.1Find and mark the center of a short side of the Bottom Band.
Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Bottom Band, at the halfway mark, matching raw edges. Pin.
7.2Baste using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
7.3Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 to attach the other side of the elastic to the other side of the Bottom Band.
TIP – Make sure the elastic isn’t twisted between the two pins.
7.4Fold Bottom Band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin at each short side.
7.5Baste each short side using ⅛ seam allowance.
7.6Baste the bottom long edge, using ⅛ seam allowance, pulling the elastic taut as you sew.
7.7Lay the Main Front and Front Facing open flat, right sides facing up. Place the Bottom Band onto the bottom flap on the Main Front, placing the folded edge ½ inch away from the bottom raw edge, matching short straight sides. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the Bottom Band is straight.
7.8Measure ½ inch from the short side and ½ inch from the folded edge of the Bottom Band.
Stitch ½ inch (shown in red).
7.9Turn the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Draw a line from the short straight edge of the bottom flap, up to the top of your stitch line from step 7.8.
7.10Cut along this line, being careful not to cut into your stitching.
NOTE – You are only cutting the Main Front, not the Bottom Band.
7.11Repeat steps 7.7 to 7.10 to attach the other side of the Bottom Band to the other side of the Main Front.
7.12Find the center of the Main Back and the center of the Bottom Band. Pin together at the center, right sides together aligning the raw edges.
7.13Stretch the Band to fit the bottom edge of the jacket. Pin.
7.14Stitch the Bottom Band in place using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch with the wrong side of the jacket facing up, keeping the bulk of the Bottom Band underneath, pulling it taut as you go.
7.15Flip the Facing over the Main Front, right sides together. Pin.
7.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.17Fold the Front Facing onto the Main Front, wrong sides together. Pin. Press.
Stitch the Front Facing to the Bottom Band seam. Repeat on the other side.
8 . Cuffs8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 8.1 to 8.3. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Follow steps 8.6 to 8.7. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then follow steps 8.9 to 8.15 using a regular sewing machine.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below
8.1Lay the Cuff wrong side facing up. Fold one long edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Press.
8.2Unfold the pressed edge. Fold the Cuff in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Press
8.3Unfold the pressed edge. Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching short sides. Pin.
8.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.5Press the seam allowance open.
8.6Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff and the Sleeve.
8.7Place the Cuff onto the Sleeve, right sides together, with the unfolded edge of the Cuff at the raw edge of the Sleeve, matching quarter points. Pin.
8.8Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
8.9Press the seam allowance towards the Cuff.
8.10Fold the Cuff at the pressed center line from step 8.2.
Press again if needed.
8.11Pin along the Cuff, making sure to catch the seam allowances inside as you pin. The raw edges should all be hidden.
TIP – Pin from the right side of the Sleeve along the seam between the Cuff and the Sleeve. Flip it over to check as you go.
8.12We are going to ‘stitch in the ditch’. This is where you stitch exactly on top of a previous seam. You will catch the other side of the Cuff in your stitching, so raw edges are all hidden. The stitching won’t easily be visible in the finished garment.
From the right side of the Sleeve, stitch slowly, leaving a 1-inch gap to insert the elastic. Hold the Cuff and Sleeve flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished jacket. Occasionally, lift the Sleeve up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the Cuff.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Sleeve instead of the Cuff. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch the Cuff using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
8.13Thread the elastic through the Cuff, leaving the ends sticking out.
TIP – Add a safety pin onto one end of the elastic. Pin the other end to the Sleeve. Then feed it through the Cuff.
8.14Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the Cuff.
8.15Stitch using a zigzag stitch. Stitch several times to secure the two ends together.
Let the elastic slip back inside the Cuff.
8.16Stitch the gap closed using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching in the ditch as in step 8.12.
8.17Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.16 with the other Cuff and Sleeve.
Your Bomber Jacket is finished!
1 . OPTIONAL Single Welt PocketsSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
1.1Fold a Single Welt Pocket in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Pin either side.
1.2Stitch both short edges using a ½ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners to prevent bulk.
1.4Turn the Single Welt Pocket piece right side out and press.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners. You want crisp, sharp edges and corners.
1.5Draw a line on the wrong side of the Single Welt Pocket, ¼ inch from the raw edge, using tailors chalk/fabric pen.
NOTE – If you are using a directional fabric check that your fabric is facing the correct way.
1.6Lay one Main Front piece right side facing up. Place the Single Welt Pocket at the pattern marking, right side facing down, matching the raw edge and corners to the pattern marking (shown in red in the photo). Pin.
TIP – The raw edges of the welt pocket must be facing towards the side seam.
1.7Stitch along the marked line using ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.8Measure the length of the Single Welt Pocket piece. Draw a line ¼ inch from the raw edge of the Pocket Bag, the length of the Single Welt Pocket, using tailors chalk/fabric pen.
Repeat on all three Pocket Bag pieces.
OPTIONAL: Overlock the curved outside edges of the Pocket Bags.
1.9Place the Pocket Bag on top of the Single Welt Pocket, right sides together, with the straight raw edge butting up against the raw edge of the Single Welt Pocket. Pin.
1.10Stitch along the marked line using ¼ inch seam allowance. You will be stitching directly over the stitch line on the Single Welt Pocket from step 1.7.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Pocket Bag piece.
1.11Place a mirror Pocket Bag onto the Front, right side down, matching the raw edges of both Pocket Bags. Pin.
1.12Stitch along the marked line using ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the ½ inch seam allowance of the Pocket Bag piece.
1.13Flip the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Your two stitch lines should be ½ inch apart (step 1.10 and 1.12).
Draw a line down the middle of these two lines, using tailors chalk/fabric pen, stopping ¼ inch before the end of the stitching.
Draw a line from each corner towards the center line, by ¼ inch.
1.14You will be cutting along the marks shown in red.
NOTE – You are only cutting along the center line between the corner markings, not through them.
Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut into the Main Front only, along the central line and into the corners. Cut as close as you can into the corners without cutting into the stitching.
1.15Press the little triangles open and flat.
1.16Pull the Pocket Bag pieces through the hole created in step 1.14, to the wrong side of the Main Front.
1.17Place the two Pocket Bags right sides together, matching all raw edges. Pin together along the raw edges, pinning the little triangle on each side.
Pin the little triangle to the second Pocket Bag (stitched in step 1.12).
1.18Using a zipper foot, stitch the triangle in place at both ends.
Then stitch around the Pocket Bags using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press.
1.19Stitch around the Pocket Bag a second time at the ½ inch seam allowance. This will reinforce your Pocket stitching, so it can take the weight of items being placed in here without the stitches breaking (e.g. phone, keys, hands, little person’s treasures!).
1.20From the right side of the Main Front, pin each short edge of the Single Welt Pocket.
1.21Edgestitch each side, stitching close to the edge of the Single Welt Pocket, to secure it in place.
TIP – Use matching thread so that your stitches aren’t visible.
1.22Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.21 for the second Single Welt Pocket.
2 . Front Facing2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front Facing onto the Front Lining, right sides together, matching the outer curved edge. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1Place the Front Facing onto the Front Lining, right sides together, matching the outer curved edge. Pin.
NOTE – The bottom of the Front Facing will be longer than the Front Lining. This will be joined to the Bottom Band.
2.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Snip into the seam allowance. This will help the curve of the Front Facing sit flatter. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.
Press the seam allowance towards the Front Lining.
2.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.2 to attach the other Front Lining and Front Facing.
3 . Zipper3.1Separate the zipper into two pieces.
Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the zipper, right sides facing down, matching the straight edge. Pin.
NOTE – The zipper will finish ½ inch from the bottom edge.
3.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance and a zipper foot.
3.3Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 to attach the other side of the zipper to the other side of the Main Front.
4 . Sleeves4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place a Main Sleeve onto a Main Front piece, right sides together, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Sleeve. Repeat to attach the back of the Main Sleeve to the Main Back. Repeat to stitch the second Main Sleeve to the Main Front and Back. Repeat to stitch each Sleeve Lining to the Front and Back Lining. Skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – As you are lining your Jacket, it is not necessary to sew French seams as this will create unnecessary bulk. Follow below.
4.1Place the Front Lining and Sleeve Lining right sides together, matching the Sleeve front to the front armscye. Pin along this curved edge.
NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the Front piece.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
4.3Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 to attach the Sleeve Lining to the Back Lining.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 to attach Main Sleeve to Main Front and Main Back.
5 . Neckband5.1Place the Main Neckband and Neckband Lining pieces right sides together, matching the inside curved edge. Pin.
5.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
Snip into the seam allowance every half inch, just up to, but not through the stitch line.
5.4Turn right sides out and press.
5.5Find and mark the center of the Neckband and the neckline edge of the jacket.
5.6Place the Main Neckband onto the jacket, right sides together, matching center points and raw edges. Pin at the center.
NOTE – The Neckband Lining is the interfaced piece. This will be closest to the wearer’s neck when worn.
5.7Match the ends of the Neckband to either end of the neckline at the ½ inch seam allowance. Pin.
5.8Continue pinning the Neckband to the neckline at the ½ inch seam allowance. Use as many pins as needed.
5.9Starting at one end, stitch along the entire neckline, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6 . Side Seams6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Main Jacket side seams, right sides together, using ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to the back. Repeat for the Jacket Lining, leaving a 6-inch gap on one side. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Match the side seams, right sides together of the Jacket Lining. Pin.
6.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
6.3Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 for the other side seam, leaving a 6-inch gap for turning the Jacket in step 9.8.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for the side seams on the Main Jacket.
NOTE – You do not need to leave a gap in the Main Jacket.
7 . Bottom Band7.1Find and mark the center of a short side of the Bottom Band.
Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Bottom Band, at the halfway mark, matching raw edges. Pin.
7.2Baste using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
7.3Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 to attach the other side of the elastic to the other side of the Bottom Band.
TIP – Make sure the elastic isn’t twisted between the two pins.
7.4Fold Bottom Band in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin at each short side.
7.5Baste each short side using ⅛ seam allowance.
7.6Baste the bottom long edge, using ⅛ seam allowance, pulling the elastic taut as you sew.
7.7Lay the Main Front right sides facing up. Place the Bottom Band onto the bottom flap on the Main Front, placing the folded edge ½ inch away from the bottom raw edge, matching short straight sides. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the Bottom Band is straight.
7.8Measure ½ inch from the short side and ½ inch from the folded edge of the Bottom Band.
Stitch ½ inch (shown in red).
7.9Turn the Main Front over, wrong sides facing up. Draw a line from the short straight edge of the bottom flap, up to the top of your stitch line from step 7.8.
7.10Cut along this line, being careful not to cut into your stitching.
NOTE – You are only cutting the Main Front, not the Bottom Band.
7.11Repeat steps 7.7 to 7.10 to attach the other side of the Bottom Band to the other side of the Main Front.
7.12Find the center of the Main Back and the center of the Bottom Band. Pin together at the center, right sides together aligning the raw edges.
7.13Stretch the Band to fit the bottom edge of the jacket. Pin.
7.14Stitch the Bottom Band in place using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Stitch with the wrong side of the jacket facing up, keeping the bulk of the Bottom Band underneath, pulling it taut as you go.
8 . Cuffs8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short sides. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Follow steps 8.4 to 8.11 using a regular sewing machine.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
8.1Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching short sides. Pin.
8.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.3Press the seam allowance open.
8.4Fold the Cuff in half, wrong sides together, matching raw edges.
8.5Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff (raw edge) and the Sleeve.
8.6Place the Cuff over the Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges and quarter points. Pin.
NOTE – Check that both sides of the Cuff are pinned to the Sleeve.
8.7Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 1 inch gap.
8.8Thread the elastic through the Cuff, leaving the ends sticking out.
TIP – Add a safety pin onto one end of the elastic. Pin the other end to the Sleeve. Then feed it through the Cuff.
8.9Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch. Pin.
Stitch using a zigzag stitch. Stitch several times to secure the two ends together.
Let the elastic slip back inside the Cuff.
8.10Stitch the gap closed using a ½ inch seam allowance.
8.11Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.10 with the other Cuff and Sleeve.
9 . Attaching Main and Lining9.1Place the Main Jacket and Jacket Lining, right sides together, matching the Front Facing to the Main Front on either side and the necklines. Pin.
NOTE – The Neckband will be sandwiched in between the Main and Lining at the neckline.
9.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance and a zipper foot.
9.3TIP – This step can seem confusing at first. We recommend reading through the next steps before starting. We have made a video to help with these steps. Watch here to follow along.
Lay the Jacket right sides facing up, open and flat.
9.4Lift the Bottom Band and fold it onto the Main Jacket, right sides together, so that the bottom band is parallel to the zipper.
9.5Take the short edge of the Bottom Band corner (not folded) and flip it over onto the Facing, turning it 90 degrees.
This will allow the non-folded corner to match up with the inside corner where the Facing meets the Lining.
9.6Align the short raw edges of the Bottom Band to the short side edge of the Facing. Also align the bottom edge of the Facing to the bottom edge of the Main Jacket.
9.7Pin.
9.8Stitch along the bottom edge and up the side of the Facing using ½ inch seam allowance, stopping at the stitch line of your Bottom Band.
Repeat steps 9.11 to 9.12 for the second Sleeve.
NOTE – When you stitch along the bottom edge, check that you are not stitching the folded edge of the Bottom Band.
9.9Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.8 for the second Sleeve along the Bottom edge.
9.10Flip the Bottom Band up in between the Main and Lining. Place the Main and Lining right sides together, matching the bottom edge. Pin.
9.11Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.12Fold the Cuff inside the right side of the Main Sleeve.
Take the Sleeve Lining and slide it inside the Main Sleeve, matching the raw edge of the Sleeve Lining to the seam allowance of the Main Sleeve and Cuff. Match the side seams. Pin.
TIP – Make sure the sleeves are not twisted when attaching outer to lining.
9.13Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.14Repeat steps 9.12 to 9.13 for the second Sleeve.
9.15Pull the jacket out through the gap left in the Jacket Lining side seam in step 6.3. Your jacket will be right sides out, with the lining fully inside.
9.16Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the opening in the Lining. This type of stitch allows you to close the opening without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside of the Jacket. You will be stitching along the folded edge. Insert the needle from the inside of the opening, up through one of the folded edges.
9.17Insert the needle into the other side, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
9.18Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the fold and pull the thread through.
9.19Continue to stitch along the folded edge, alternating from the top to the bottom fold.
NOTE – You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Bomber Jacket is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbomberjacket.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Makers Gallery
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewBomber Jacket
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
The zip front Bomber Jacket can be lined or unlined. The raglan sleeves and hem are elasticated for ease of movement. Add optional welt pockets for a casual sporty look. Wear it with a pair of Jo Jeans and a blouse for an effortlessly elegant look.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Hip
Bicep
Cuff
Sleeve length (incl cuff)
Center front length (incl cuff)
XXS
35.5
38.0
15.5
9.6
26.7
18.0
XS
37.5
40.0
16.2
10.0
27.0
18.0
S
39.5
41.0
17.0
10.5
27.1
18.0
M
41.5
43.0
18.0
11.0
27.2
18.0
L
43.5
45.0
19.0
11.2
27.3
18.0
XL
46.5
48.0
20.0
11.6
27.5
18.0
XXL
49.5
51.0
21.0
12.0
27.6
20.0
3XL
52.5
55.0
22.0
12.5
27.7
20.0
4XL
55.5
58.0
23.0
13.0
28.0
20.0
5XL
58.5
63.0
24.1
13.2
28.1
20.0
Materials and ToolsMain fabric: The exterior of the jacket needs to be a light to medium weight woven. Cotton, cotton poplin, gabardine drill, twill, linen, satin, light weight denim would be perfect.
OPTIONAL Lining fabric:
- The interior needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric.
- Suitable fabrics including lining, cotton, quilting cotton, satin, duchess satin. Fabrics with less drape (e.g. cotton) will be easier to handle and sew. Fabrics that are smoother will slide over shirts a bit more easily than a quilting cotton.
- Fabrics such as silk can be used for the lining but are only recommended for someone with experience using them as lining.
Do not use a knit/stretch fabric for any part of the Bomber Jacket.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – S
1.75
0.75
M
2.00
0.75
L – XL
2.00
1.00
XXL
2.25
1.25
3XL
2.25
1.50
4XL – 5XL
2.50
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
XXS – XL
1.50
0.75
XXL – 3XL
1.75
0.75
4XL
2.00
1.00
5XL
2.00
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1x Open end zipper:
- XXS – XL: 1 x 18 inches
- XXL – 5XL: 1 x 20 inches
- ¾ inch wide Elastic for hem and cuff – approximately 2.1 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Light to mid weight Interfacing – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, zipper foot, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
