Booty Undies

Booty Undies

Difficulty Level = Beginner

Make your booty a little cuter! This is a super simple sew with a great fit that can be your new comfiest undies. There are two rises to choose from – low, or mid, two heights to choose from for cut, mid cut and high cut and three elastic finishing options – picot, fold over, or enclosed elastic. You can also choose to finish the legs with basic topstitching to minimize bulk! Mix and match the options to make yourself a complete set of beautiful and comfy undies.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens 1-10, Womens Curvy 6C-15C

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing– Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Selecting your Size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your waist measurement to the size for your hip measurement. Continue to the edge of the leg using your hip measurement size.
• Height Adjustment – These undies are designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may also find that you need to make personal fit adjustments for your tummy, crotch depth, sway back, and or bum. Follow this free tutorial to adjust the tummy.
  • Rise – Rise listed in the finished measurement chart above is measured from the seam at the middle of the gusset. To ensure you get the best fit, choose the rise option and add or remove rise from the front or back as needed when compared to your own measurements.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric.  Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
  • Use an inexpensive lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Baste all the pieces together using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final undies.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams.
  • Adjust the width of the gusset to your personal preference.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to 3/8 inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final undies.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

• Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric such as jersey, or cotton lycra (CL).
• Both 4-way stretch (stretches both horizontally and vertically), and 2-way stretch fabrics will work. For 2-way stretch fabrics, take care to place the pattern pieces as indicated for the grainline so that the stretch runs at right angles to the grainline. For 4-way stretch fabrics, this might impact how the rise fits. Keep this in mind when making adjustments.
• Your fabric will need to have at least 40% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 40% longer than its original length, then it has at least 40% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.8 inches.
• The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your undies maintain its shape and fit for as long as possible and not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns to its original size.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.

** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

Elastic OPTIONS ⅜ inch wide – approximately 2.2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes:

• Picot Elastic
• OR Enclosed Elastic – use Knitted or Lingerie Elastic
• OR Fold Over Elastic
• OPTIONAL Decorative bow – 1x small lingerie satin bow
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvedge edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch –Topstitching zig zag 3.5 x 2.0 mm

Sewing –

1. MAIN UNDIES – Lay Undies pieces right sides together, aligning front rise. Stitch or serger with a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Repeat for back rise. Right sides together, align bottom edge front to back. NOTE – Nest seams by pressing them in opposite directions.
2. GUSSET OPTION – OPTIONAL: Finish the front and back raw edges of Gusset. Layer Gusset right side up, on top of wrong side of Undies. NOTE – Gusset will not be centered over the seam but will skew toward the front. Align raw, side edges. Baste Gusset alongside edges. OPTIONAL: Stitch front and back of Gusset to Undies.
3. PICOT ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap the leg elastic ½ inch and stitch. Quarter the elastic and the top edge of the Undies. With right side together, pin elastic matching the quarter points, stretching elastic slightly. Baste, then turn it to wrong side, pin and stitch. Repeat for legs. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
4. FOLD OVER ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap the waist fold over elastic ½ inch and stitch. Mark quarter points of fold over elastic and waist. On wrong side of Undies, match quarter points. Pin raw edge of Undies to the middle of fold over elastic. Stretch elastic slightly between quarter points and stitch. Turn top edge over to right side and stitch. Repeat for leg elastic. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
5. ENCLOSED ELASTIC OPTION – Overlap ends of waist elastic ½ inch and stitch. Mark quarter points of elastic and waist. Place elastic inside Undies at waist edge, right sides together, matching quarter points and raw edge of the elastic to the stitched waist edge. Stretch the elastic slightly between the quarter points and pin. Topstitch. Fold waist opening over to inside and topstitch. Repeat for legs. OPTIONAL: Add ribbon bow to the waist at the center front.
6. TOPSTITCH OPTION – Turn raw edge of leg opening ⅜ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat for second leg. NOTE – We do not recommend this option for the waistband.

Congratulations, your Booty Undies is done. Enjoy!

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbootyundies.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

© Copyright 2022

All Rights Reserved

Makers Gallery