Bum Bag

Labels

Transfer all labels. Mark the pattern using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, or pins.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to all main and lining fabric pieces.

TIP – Trim the interfacing pieces by ¼ inch on each seam. This will make it easier to stitch through the layers.

Take the bottom straight edge of the outer Main Top Front and fold it up, right sides together, matching straight edges. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.  

Clip into the seam allowance at the folded edge. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

TIP – Use small little snips to get close to but not through the stitches.

Press the seam allowance open.  

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 for the other corner of the Main Top Front.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the Main Bottom Front and both Top Front and Bottom Front Lining pieces.

Lay the Top Front Lining right side facing up. Place the zipper right side facing up, matching the top raw edge of the Top Front Lining with the zipper tape.

Pin in place.

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

NOTE – Zipper tape comes in various widths.  This pattern has a ¼ inch seam allowance along the zipper edge.  If your zipper tape varies from that shown in the tutorial, align the edge of your fabric so you are able to take the full seam allowance without your stitches being too close to the zipper teeth.

Place the Main Top Front on top of the zipper, right side facing down, matching the top raw edge with the zipper tape.

Pin in place.

The pieces will now be layered in this order: Lining facing up, zipper facing up, Main facing down. 

Using a zipper foot on the sewing machine, stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Main Top Front up over the zipper, so the wrong sides of the Main and Lining are together. Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch along the zipper tape, ⅛ inch from the fabric edge.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 with the Bottom Front Lining and Main pieces, attaching them to the other side of the zipper.

NOTE – This will now be called the Front.

Open the zipper halfway. 

Baste the outside of the Front, using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim off the excess zipper tape.

NOTE – If you do not open your zipper, the zipper pull will get stuck on the outer edge of the basting stitches.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

If you are using webbing in place of making straps, skip to step 4. If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use that method. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold the Strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press.

Open the Strap then fold the two long sides into the middle and press.

Refold the Strap along the center edge, folding the raw edges to the inside.  

Topstitch ⅛ inch from each long edge.

NOTE – Add additional topstitching as you like.

If you are using webbing straps cut 2x 25 inches long Straps and continue below.

Place the Main Left Side right sides facing up. Take the Strap and place it in the center of the straight, short edge, matching raw edges. Pin.

Baste using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Place the Left Side Lining on top, right sides together, sandwiching the Strap. Pin along all edges except the long straight edge.  

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Stitch back and forth over the Strap for extra security.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half and clip the corners.

Turn right sides out and press.  

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.  

Topstitch around the outsides edges using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

OPTIONAL – Add additional topstitching as desired.

Place the Left Side onto the Front, right sides together, matching the raw edge to the shorter side of the Front. Pin.

NOTE – Check that you are matching top edges of the Front to the Left Side.

Baste using ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.9 for the Right Side and second Strap.

Place the Main Back onto the Front, right sides together. Pin the corners. 

Continue pinning, easing the Back at the seam allowance.

NOTE – This will create a sandwich with all the bag parts, including the Sides and Straps, in between the layers.

NOTE – Check that you are attaching the Back piece the correct way, with the top and bottom edges matching the Front top and bottom edges.

Stitch using a scant ½ inch seam allowance.  

NOTE – We are stitching just under the full ½ inch seam allowance, so the stitches won’t be visible.  

Place the Back Lining onto the Front Lining, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-4 inch gap along the top edge.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half and clip the corners.

Turn right sides out and press. 

Topstitch along top edge, getting as close to each end as possible.  This will close the gap left in step 5.4. 

FIT CHECK – We recommend fit checking the length of the Straps and adjusting accordingly before attaching the buckle.

Lay the Bag and Straps out flat. Grab the buckle and slider. 

NOTE – You can choose to put a slider on both sides of the buckle. This will allow a wider range of adjustments for fit.

Thread a Strap through the slider. 

NOTE – If you would like the slider on the same side as this tutorial, we added it to the Left Side.

Slide the Strap up through the bottom of the adjustable side of the buckle, then back through the center bar, and back to the wrong side.

Push the loose end of the Strap up through the wrong side of the slider, over the center bar, and back through to the wrong side, creating two layers of strapping through the slider.

Fold the end of the Strap over to the wrong side by ½ inch. Pin.

Gently pull the Strap until the folded end of the Strap is against the center of the slider. You will now have a loop around the center bar of the slider.  

Stitch a rectangle around the folded end of the Strap. 

NOTE – Check that you are only stitching through the two layers of the folded Strap piece only. 

From the right side of the buckle, slide the second strap end through the opening, and pull it to the wrong side.  

NOTE – Check strap length for the second strap length.  Depending on desired use, shortening might be preferred.  

Repeat steps 6.5 to 6.7 to secure the Strap to the buckle.

OPTIONAL – Add vinyl or fun tags to your Bum Bag to make it your own! The front is a great place to show a message to everyone or add a vinyl message to the back for the wearer!