Bun Hat

Bun Hat

Difficulty Level = Beginner 

The Bun Hat is cute and versatile – keeping your head warm while wearing your hair up. The convenient opening at the top of the hat is designed to fit around your hair for a fun look. The optional loop adds an extra touch making the Bun Hat a pattern you’ll want to wear all winter long.

Size Range

XS - L

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

The Bun Hat is intended to sit at your forehead, over your ears and at the hairline at the back. This is where you’ll need to measure your head circumference to choose your size.

• When choosing your size, keep in mind the hat is supposed to sit securely against the head but not feel as if it is squeezing. 
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

• Fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. Great examples are double brushed poly, athletic knit, french terry, and liverpool. 
• Your fabric will need to have at least 30% stretch with good recovery to fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
• If your fabric has a 4-way stretch, you can cut the pieces with the grainline in the opposite direction to the pattern pieces.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150  cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Thread to match

Tools needed are a sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, something to turn the band like a blunt chopstick, optional cutting mat and rotary cutter.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below: 

Cutting Checklist:

• Hat – Cut 2 on fold
• Band – Cut 1 
• OPTIONAL Loop – Cut 1

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

Sewing –

1. HAT – Match Hat front and back along curved edges then fold both in half aligning the curved edges, pin, stitch. Repeat on other edge of the hat, turn right side out, press. 
2. OPTIONAL LOOP – Fold Loop in half lengthwise, stitch, turn right side out. Press. Align short raw edge over the seam on the Hat along the raw edge. Flip the Loop over to the inside of the Hat, matching the short raw edge to the bottom edge of the Hat and sandwiching the Hat between the Loop. Baste in place.
3. BAND – Align the short raw edges of the Band, right sides together, fold in half along the short edge, stitch. Open the Band, turning the right sides out then find the quarter points of both the Band and the Hat. Match the quarter points, stitch, press.

Congratulations, your Bun Hat is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbunhat.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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