No products in the cart.
Progress Menu
x
Home / Craft / Toys and Dolls
This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Car Play Mat
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Sew a simple play mat or an intricate labor of love for hours of interactive play. This car mat sewing pattern features roads, blocks to decorate with loads of optional interactive pieces, a pop-up carpark, and convenient carry handles.
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- OPTIONAL Fusible webbing e.g. Pellon 805 Wonder-Under, ‘heat n bond’, ‘bondaweb’, fusible web or iron-on adhesive. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient if adding all decorations.
- OR OPTIONAL Fabric glue – If you are not using double-sided interfacing, use this as an alternative.
- OPTIONAL Medium or light weight fusible interfacing. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient.
- OPTIONAL Handle and Straps – ¼ yard of Iron on interfacing.
- NOTE – Premade straps or webbing can be used in place of the fabric straps.
- Batting – about 1 ½ yards, this project can get quite thick, so choosing a thin and stable batting will be quite helpful.
- OPTIONAL Roundabout – 5x ½ inch wide Snaps / Buttons for the Flowers
- OPTIONAL Hook and Loop tape (Velcro) – Approximately 1 yard. This is used for the OPTIONAL Quiet Book decorations and the OPTIONAL Straps. If you are adding the Drive Through Car Wash you will need a piece of tape. Other decorations have optional tape.
- OPTIONAL Trims – If you are adding decorations, you can use additional trims such as embroidery floss, fabric paint, buttons, ribbon.
- Thread – various colors to match
- Road – Fabric cut 1
- Quilt Layer – Batting cut 1
- Backing – Fabric cut 1
- Edges A to E – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- Corners – Fabric cut 3, Lining cut 3
- Carpark – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Blocks 1 to 12 – Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
- OPTIONAL Handle – Fabric cut 1, Interfacing cut 1
- OPTIONAL Straps – Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 1
- NOTE – Premade straps or webbing can be used in place of the fabric straps.
Project OverviewCar Mat Quiet Book
Difficulty Level = Beginner
You can either sew this car mat as a plain car mat, with a little ‘carpark’ to store the cars in, and non-decorated blocks in between the roads. Or you can sew it as a quiet-book-type car mat, with all kinds of decorations and interactive elements to play with, in addition to the cars, and set imaginations on fire!
The plain car mat is a much quicker, simpler sew. The quiet book version of the car mat is a labor of love! It’s a very easy sew (and using fusible webbing, you can make the sew quicker), but there’s no hiding from it – it is a long sew! You can pick and choose elements, moving them to wherever you want them on the mat, and adding any and all creative extras you want. It’s a sew you can lose yourself in and have the most wonderful time, creating a true heirloom your family will hand down through the generations.
Add the optional straps to roll the car mat up and a handle to carry it with.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Craft
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Width
Length
Car Mat
34.0
42.0
Materials and ToolsMain and Lining fabric – You will need any medium weight woven (non-stretch) fabric that will work, such as quilting cotton, cotton, or poly cotton. Most people use a dark color for the Roads as all the blocks will be placed on top, leaving this exposed as the roads.
NOTE – If you are using light colored fabrics for your blocks & edges, use either the same fabric, or a plain fabric to line them with so that you cannot see the dark road fabric underneath.
OPTIONAL Quiet Book Fabrics – these are the fabrics for the decorations on each block (e.g. the volcano, the dinosaur, the frog etc.). The edges of these are not finished so we recommend a non-fraying fabric such as felt. You will need assorted colors in scrap size. Many stores sell felt packs, or it is a great one to raid your stash for. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Lava to the Volcano you will need a lightweight fabric such as chiffon or georgette that will be the Fabric Lava inside the volcano.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Exterior
1.50
N/A
Road
1.25
N/A
Carpark
0.25
0.25
Blocks / Edges
1.00
1.00
OPTIONAL Decorations
Scraps
N/A
OPTIONAL Lava
0.25
N/A
OPTIONAL Straps & Handle
0.50
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Lining
Exterior
1.50
N/A
Road
1.25
N/A
Carpark
0.25
0.25
Blocks / Edges
1.00
1.00
OPTIONAL Decorations
Scraps
N/A
OPTIONAL Lava
0.25
N/A
OPTIONAL Straps & Handle
0.50
0.50
NOTE – Blocks are the areas that create the blocks between the roads. Edges are around the exterior of the mat. You can use the equivalent in scraps if you wish to have each block or edge in a different fabric.
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine (or you could do it by hand), needle (this project can get quite thick. You might find it easier to use a needle designed for thicker projects, rather than the standard needle size), scissors, pins. OPTIONAL safety pins or quilting safety pins for attaching all the layers before you sew them together. OPTIONAL iron (if using fusible interfacing/adhesive).
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Mat OPTIONAL
Straps and
HandleBlock 1 Block 2 Block 3 Block 4 Block 5 Block 6 Block 7 Block 8 Block 9 Block 10 Block 11 Block 12 Edge E 2-6, 12-
16, 22-26,
32-36, 43-
47, 54, 56-
5757-60 7,17 8 8, 18-19 9-11,
20-2127-28,
37-3829-30 31 38-39 39-42 48-50 37 51-53 54-56 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Mat OPTIONAL
Straps and
HandleBlock 1 Block 2 Block 3 Block 4 Block 5 Block 6 Block 7 Block 8 Block 9 Block 10 Block 11 Block 12 Edge E 2-7, 12-17,
22-27, 32-
37, 43-
48,5456-59 7,17 8 8, 18-19 9-11,
20-2127-28,
37-3829-30 31 38-39 39-42 48-50 37 51-53 44-45,
54-55Cut Files
File Types
We have included three to four file types for you to choose from. Please choose whichever you are more familiar with or works best with your cutting machine. For cut files of the smaller pieces for some of our patterns, like the Dolls House Quiet Book and Add-on, we do not include a PDF copy. All versions come with .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF.
You will start by downloading the files from your account. Open your software and choose the file type you’d like to work with.
Pattern Cut Files
When working with cut files to cut small pattern pieces, it is imperative that you make sure the file is the correct size prior to cutting. We have included a one-inch square box offset in each file. You should be able to move the square off to the side, so it isn’t cut with the rest of your file. For files that also have square pieces, please be sure to compare them to the cut chart in the original file instructions. We’d always prefer you double check than have something cut out that isn’t useable!
Other Cut Files
For all other cut files, you should resize to your project needs. Please do keep in mind the size of some of the features. Going very small may make it difficult to cut smaller fonts or finer details.
Media
As mentioned earlier, it is very important to choose the correct media to for your cut. There is a huge selection to choose from and it can be overwhelming. Be sure to use the materials suggested by your machine for the type of project you are completing.
Download ZIP FileCutting InstructionsCutting checklist: You will need all pattern pieces listed here for either the Plain or Quiet Book options.
OPTIONAL Quiet Book Decorations cutting checklist:
You can choose ALL or some of the decorations to add to your Car Mat. Decide which decorations you’d like, then cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Some of the decorations can be moved around to opposite Blocks, but each Block stays in the same place. The decorations do not have any seam allowances. The Blocks & Edges all include a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Most of the decorations are double sided. You will need to cut the pattern pieces as per the directions and place them onto a scrap piece of the same or contrast fabric (with double sided interfacing, glue or just placed), and then stitched down. Each piece will then be cut around the first to create the reverse layer.
NOTE – If you are using quilting cotton for the decorations, cut the fabric on the bias (diagonally) to reduce fraying. The small amount of fraying that will occur adds charm to your Car Mat. If you are using felt, you can cut at any angle, as it doesn’t fray!
NOTE – If you are using double sided interfacing, do not cut any of the pieces requiring this out yet except the Carpark piece. Place the fabric for these pieces aside. You will be cutting these in Section A. If you are not using any glue or interfacing, cut each piece out as per the instructions, put them in piles according to the block/edge piece they go on and skip to the blocks. If you are using fabric glue, cut each piece out as per the instructions, put them in piles according to which block/edge piece they go on and skip to the blocks, then use the fabric glue instead of interfacing as per the manufacturer’s instructions.
TIPS – Put the paper pattern pieces and fabric pieces in an individual envelope/zip-lock/plastic wallet for each block to keep each block separate.
Block 1 (Gas Station)
Block 2 (Mailbox)
Block 3 (Drive Through Car Wash)
● Tools (wording) – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Tools – Fabric cut 1 set, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1 set, plus 1x scrap piece
● Toolbox – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece
● Canopy – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Gas Pump – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Cord / Trim
● Mail (wording) – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Mailbox – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece
● Mailbox Flap – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2, plus 1x scrap piece
● Flag – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece
● Post – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Letters – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3, plus 1x scrap piece
● Car Wash (wording) – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Bubbles – Fabric cut 12, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 12
● Bay – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Double Sided Interfacing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Mitter Curtains – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Hook and loop tape
Block 4 (Volcano)
● Overflowing Lava 1 – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Overflowing Lava 2 – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Volcano – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece of fabric
● Exploding Lava – Fabric cut 1 on fold
● Dinosaur – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece of fabric
● Eyes – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
● Spots – Fabric cut 7, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 7
● OPTIONAL Hook and loop tape
Block 5 (Lake)
● Bridge – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Reeds – Fabric cut 6, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 6, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Reed Grass – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Lily Pads – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Flowers – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Frog – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Octopus – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Fish – Fabric cut 6, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 6, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Ribbon / Trim
● Hook and loop tape
Block 6 (City)
● Clouds – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3
● Buildings – Fabric cut 1 of each, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1 of each
NOTE – The City can be attached to Block 9.
Block 7 (Parking Lot)
● Bays – Fabric cut 3
● OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3
Block 8 (Farm)
● Carrot – Fabric cut 5, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 5, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Carrot Tops – Fabric cut 5, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 5, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Earth Layer 1 – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece
● Earth Layer 2 – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x scrap piece
Block 9 (Barn)
● Barn – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Barn Door – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Barn Door X – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Window – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Barn Roof – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Fence – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 4, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Fence Posts – Fabric cut 12, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 6
● Pig Head – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Pig Snout – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Pig Body – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Chicken Body – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Chicken Legs – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Chicken Beak – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Sheep Face – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Sheep Head – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Sheep Body – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Sheep Legs – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● OPTIONAL Hook and loop tape
NOTE – The Barn can be attached to Block 6.
Block 10 (Castle)
● Drawbridge – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Drawbridge Edge – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Tower – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Turret – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Flag – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Trees – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
● Trunks – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
● Bush – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Dragon – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● OPTIONAL Hook and loop tape
NOTE – The Castle can be attached to Block 12.
Block 11 (Roundabout)
● Flowers – Fabric cut 5, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 5, plus 1x spare piece of fabric, 5x snaps/buttons
Block 12 (Campsite)
● Tent – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Tent Door – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● Trees – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3
● Tree Trunk – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3
● Log – Fabric cut 2, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 2
● Big Fire – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Small Fire – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Bear Face – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Bear Tummy – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Bear – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
● OPTIONAL Hook and loop tape
NOTE – The Campsite can be attached to Block 10.
Edge E (Houses)
● Houses – Fabric cut 1 of each, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3
● Grass – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1
● Windows – Fabric cut 1 of each, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 1 of each
● Rooves – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3
● Doors – Fabric cut 3, OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing cut 3, plus 1x spare piece of fabric
Cut files for the smaller pieces are included in .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF. Download the files, open the software for your cutting machine and choose the file type you would like to work with.
Make sure before cutting that the file is the correct size.
When cutting fabric on your cutting machine, be sure to use interfacing. Then follow the machine instructions.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Width
Height
Road Fabric
Fabric cut 1
34.0
42.0
Carpark
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
6.0
24.0
Batting
Batting cut 1
36.0
44.0
Backing
Fabric cut 1
38.0
46.0
Edge B
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
1.6
21.3
Edge C
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
1.6
23.0
Edge D
Fabric cut 1, Lining cut 1
1.6
31.0
Handle
Fabric cut 1, Interfacing cut 1
4.5
14 .0
Straps
Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 2
4.5
25.0
OPTIONAL Lava
Fabric cut 1
20.0
20.0
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL DOUBLE-SIDED INTERFACING – Trace pattern pieces for all decorations onto iron-on interfacing. Roughly cut around interfacing. Group interfacing into fabric colors, and iron the interfacing to the fabric following manufacturer’s instructions. Cut pieces out.
- BLOCK 1 – GAS STATION – Peel paper backing off each of the Tools except the Toolbox. Iron/glue/place each Tool onto the spare fabric, stitch. Cut around Tools. Place Canopy onto Block 1 on pattern marking. Iron/glue/place, stitch. Stitch 4 inch piece of cord/trim for Gas Pump ‘hose’. Iron/glue/place and stitch the Gas Pump in place. Iron/glue/place and stitch the word ‘TOOLS’ in place on the Toolbox. Place the Toolbox onto a scrap piece of fabric. Stitch only along the edge above the words ‘Tools’. Cut around the original Toolbox piece. Place the Toolbox onto Block 1. Iron/glue/place and stitch the outer edges. NOTE – The Tools can be left loose or stitched in place.
- BLOCK 2 – MAILBOX – Iron/glue/place the word ‘MAIL’ onto the Mailbox piece and stitch. – Iron/glue/place one Mailbox Flap to the spare fabric. Stitch around the outer curve, then cut around so it’s double sided. Iron/glue/place the Flag to the spare fabric, stitch, then cut around. Handstitch the Flag to the Mailbox. Iron/glue/place the Mailbox to the spare fabric. Only stitch along the front curved opening. Cut around the Mailbox. Place the Mailbox Flap onto Block 2, iron/glue/place and stitch in place. Repeat with the Post. Place the Mailbox, stitch the Mailbox leaving the front curved edge open. Place the double-sided Flap over the stitched down Flap. Stitch along bottom straight edge. Embroider faux writing on the Letters. Iron/glue/place the Letters onto the spare Fabric, stitch. Cut around the Letters.
- BLOCK 3 – DRIVE THROUGH CAR WASH – Iron/glue/place the word ‘CAR WASH’ and Bubbles in place onto the Bay, stitch. Iron/glue/place the Bay onto spare fabric, stitch and cut out so it’s double sided. Iron/glue/place both Mitter Curtains to spare fabric. Stitch along marked horizontal stitch line. Cut along vertical lines. Fold Mitter Curtain in half vertically. Snip ½ inch into fold. Fold top edges in opposite directions by ¼ to ½ inch. Press. Fold the Bay in half lengthwise to find center. Mark center on each side. Align the snip of a Mitter Curtain with the center of the Bay. Pin each opposite piece of Miter Curtain in place, stitch. Repeat on the opposite edge of the Bay. Cut a piece of hook & loop tape the edge of the short edge of the Bay. Stitch the hook side to the underside of the Bay. Place the Bay edge without hook and loop onto Block 3, stitch. Place the loop part of the tape onto Block 3, stitch. Check length of Mitter Curtains, trim if needed.
- BLOCK 4 – VOLCANO – Iron/glue/place two layers of lava onto the Volcano, stitch. Iron/glue/place the Volcano onto spare fabric, stitch sides of the lava and top opening only. Cut out so it’s double sided. Iron/glue/place the Spots and Eyes on the Dinosaur, stitch. Add pupils onto the eyes and add a mouth as desired. OPTIONAL – Stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of the spare fabric. Place the Dinosaur onto the spare fabric, stitch. Cut out the Dinosaur. Fold the Exploding Lava edges over by ¼ inch to wrong side. Fold again ¼ inch. Press and topstitch. Place the Volcano on Block 4, stitch one corner in place. Move the Exploding Lava up, out of the way then pin the Volcano over the Exploding Lava. Stitch the two sides below the Overflowing Lava and the base.
- BLOCK 5 – LAKE – Iron/glue/place the Bridge to the spare fabric, stitch. OPTIONAL – Add horizontal lines for details. Cut out. Cut a piece of hook & loop tape length of the short edge of Bridge. Stitch hook side to underside of short edge of Bridge. Iron/glue/place the Reeds and Lily Pads onto Block 5, stitch. Stitch back and forth between the Reeds and Reed Grass several times to make stalks. Iron/glue/place the Flowers in place, stitch. OPTIONAL for the Frog and Octopus – Stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of the spare fabric. Place the Frog and Octopus onto the spare fabric, stitch. Cut out so they are double sided. Stitch on eye and mouth details. Cut 6x pieces of ribbon/trim. Sandwich one end of ribbon between Fish tail and spare fabric. Iron/glue/place fish in place, stitch. Cut out Fish. Place three loose ends of ribbon under where the Bridge will be attached, stitch. Repeat with other three ribbons on opposite side of where Bridge will attach. Stitch short end of Bridge with no hook tape to Block 5. Place loop tape on Block 5, stitch.
- BLOCK 6 – CITY – Iron/glue/place to attach City to right side of Block 6. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details. Repeat with Clouds.
- BLOCK 7 – PARKING LOT – Iron/glue/place to attach Bays onto right side of Block 7. Stitch.
- BLOCK 8 – FARM – Iron/glue/place to attach Earth Layer 1 to spare fabric. Stitch top edge. Cut. Repeat with Earth Layer 2. Layer Earth Layer 1 onto right side of Block 8, then Earth Layer 2. Stitch bottom curved edge. Iron/glue/place to attach Carrot Tops to spare fabric. Stitch. Cut. OPTIONAL: Add hook tape to back of spare fabric. Place Carrot Tops onto edge of spare fabric, overlapping slightly. Iron/glue/place to attach Carrots. Stitch. Cut. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details.
- BLOCK 9 – BARN – Iron/glue/place to attach Window and Roof onto Barn. Iron/glue/place to attach Door X onto Door. Stitch. Iron/glue/place to attach Door to spare fabric. Finger press in half vertically. Cut. Stitch around each door. Iron/glue/place to attach Barn to right side of Block 9. Stitch. Place Fence pieces together (4 in total). Stitch. Layer Fence Post, Fence, Fence posts. Iron/glue/place to attach together. Stitch. Repeat. Stitch short ends to Barn. Place Doors onto Barn and stitch small rectangles. OPTIONAL ALL animals: Add hook tape to back of spare fabric. Iron/glue/place to attach Pig Snout to Pig head. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details. Iron/glue/place to attach Pig Body to spare fabric. Stitch. Iron/glue/place to attach Pig Head over. Stitch. Cut. Place Chicken Legs onto spare fabric. Stitch. Cut. Iron/glue/place to attach Chicken Beak to Chicken Body. Stitch. Place Chicken Legs to end of fabric. Iron/glue/place to attach Chicken Body. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details. Repeat for Sheep adding Sheep Face to Body. Once stitched to spare fabric, use preferred method to attach Sheep head. Stitch.
- BLOCK 10 – CASTLE – Iron/glue/place to place Drawbridge onto spare fabric. OPTIONAL: Stitch lines. Cut. Finger press center fold. Stitch on fold. Stitch additional lines. Iron/glue/place to attach Drawbridge Edge onto Drawbridge. Stitch. Cut. Iron/glue/place to attach Flag to right side of Block 10. Iron/glue/place to attach Turret, overlapping Flag. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details. Repeat with Tower. Repeat with Castle. Stitch bottom edge of Drawbridge. Iron/glue/place to attach Trunks, Trees and Bush. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details. OPTIONAL: Add hook tape to spare fabric. Iron/glue/place to attach to spare fabric. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add stitch details. Cut.
- BLOCK 11 – ROUNDABOUT – Iron/glue/place to attach flowers to spare fabric. Stitch. Cut. Attach fastenings. Attach to right side of Block.
- BLOCK 12 – CAMPSITE – Iron/glue/place to stitch the Tent to the right side of Block 12. Use your preferred method to attach Tent Door to spare fabric (do not stitch). Cut out. Fold Tent Door approximately in half vertically. Press with fingers. Cut along fold line. Stitch around each Tent Door. Butt the Tent Door pieces up against the Tent. Stitch using a long ¼ inch wide rectangle. OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch details. Use your preferred method to attach Tree Trunks onto Block. Stitch. Use your preferred method to attach to attach Trees. Stitch. Use your preferred method to attach first Log. Stitch. Attach second Log. Stitch. Use your preferred method to attach Big Fire. Stitch. Use your preferred method to attach Small Fire. Stitch. Use your preferred method to attach Face and Tummy onto Bear. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Add hook tape to back of spare fabric. Place Bear onto fabric. Stitch. OPTIONAL: Stitch face details. Cut.
- EDGE PIECE E – HOUSES – Iron/glue/place to stitch house, rooves and windows on the right side of Edge E as per the pattern markings. Use your preferred method and stitch the Doors onto the spare fabric. Cut out. Place onto Houses as per markings. Place Grass and Doors. Stitch.
- BLOCKS ASSEMBLY – Block Assembly – Stitch the Main Block and Block Lining pieces right sides together. Clip corners. Trim seam allowance. Carefully pull the Block Lining away from the Main Block and any decorations if added. Clip a hole approximately 2-3 inches in the center of the Block Lining piece only. Turn the Block through the hole and push out corners/edges. Carefully roll the seams on the edges so that the seam line is directly in the middle of the edge. Press.
- EDGES ASSEMBLY – Place the Main Edge and Edge Lining pieces right sides together. For Edge piece A, stitch both short edges and the curved edge. For the straight Edge pieces, B, C and D, stitch one long straight side. For Edge piece E, stitch all sides except the long straight edge, and the short straight edge at right angles to this. For the 3x Corner Edge pieces, stitch the short edges and the curved edge. Clip corners. Trim seam allowance. Turn right sides out and push out corners/edges. Carefully roll the seams so that the seam line is directly in the middle of the edge. Press.
- ATTACH BLOCKS AND EDGES – Lay the Road right side facing up. Place Edges B, C, D and E into place on the Road fabric, right sides facing up. Pin. Pin Edge piece A and the Corner Edge pieces into place, right sides facing up, on top of the others already there. Place each Block in place, right sides facing up, as per the pattern markings. Pin. Stitch.
- CARPARK AND ROAD LINES – If you have used double sided interfacing, peel the paper backing off. Place Main Carpark and Carpark Lining right sides together. Stitch two short edges and one long edge. Clip corners and trim seam allowances. Turn right sides out. Carefully roll the seams on the edges so that the seam line is directly in the middle of the edge. Press. Transfer stitch lines to Carpark. Place the Carpark onto the Road, right sides facing up, matching the pattern markings. Pin the short markings. Stitch each line to secure. Pin box pleats at back outer edge. Stitch the back. Mark the center of all the roads. Stitch the road lines using a straight stitch.
- QUILT – Layer the pieces Car Mat Backing right side down, Batting, Road right side up. Pin. Quilt all three layers together.
- OPTIONAL FASTENINGS – Fold a Strap in half lengthways, right sides together. Finger press. Open and lay it right sides up. Mark ¼ inch in from the seam allowance on the long side of one end of the Strap. Mark ¼ inch from the seam allowance diagonally opposite on the other end of the Strap. Stitch hook tape 1½ inches from the short raw edge, centering it between the foldline and the mark. Repeat with loop tape on the opposite side. Fold Strap in half lengthways, right sides together. Stitch across short end near loop, then along the long side. Trim corners. Turn and press. OPTIONAL: Topstitch. Repeat for other Strap. Fold Handle in half lengthways, right sides together. Stitch the long edge. Turn right sides out. Press. OPTIONAL: Topstitch. Place the car mat right sides up with the Carpark right in front of you. Fold the side of the mat without the Carpark over onto the Carpark. The car mat should now be folded with the foldline running away from the Carpark away down the mat. When we fold up the mat, we will roll it from the Carpark down the mat (that way any cars stored in the Carpark stay tucked away safely). You will attach Straps and Handle to opposite end. Put a pin in the Car Mat where the fold is on the edge still sticking out from the rolled up Car Mat. Unroll the Car Mat again. Measure 3 inches from raw edge of Batting and mark a pin. Measure 3 inches in from the folded edge and mark a pin. Lay Straps centered over each pin, matching raw edges with the Road, and Strap facing into the mat. Pin. Place each end of the Handle next to the inside edge of each Strap, matching raw edges with the Road. Pin. Stitch, making a 1-inch rectangle ¼ inch from the edge of each end. Stitch diagonally across to make a X in the middle for additional strength.
- BIND EDGES – Lay the car mat flat. Move Handle and Straps into the car mat if added. Starting with one long edge (heading away from the Carpark towards the Straps) fold the Backing over onto the Batting. Fold the Batting over onto the Car Mat so that the part of the Backing you can see is approximately ½ the width of the straight parts of the Edging (e.g. so the Backing & Edges are approximately equal widths). Pin. Repeat with the parallel long edge. Repeat with the short edge where the Carpark is. Keep corners straight or miter them. Repeat with the short edge where the Straps and Handle are. Stitch.
- OPTIONAL ROLLING THE MAT UP – Lay the Car Mat flat. If you have done the Car Wash and/or the Lake, lay the Car Wash and Bridge flat. Ensure all cars are in the Carpark and all small parts are in place. Extend the Handle and Straps off the edge of the Car Mat out flat. Fold the side of the Car Mat without the Carpark over onto the Carpark, with the fold line running away from the Carpark towards the Straps. Starting at the Carpark, roll the Car Mat over and over until you get to the Straps. Leave the Straps facing away from the Car Mat. Roll each Strap around the Car Mat in the same direction you’ve just rolled the Car Mat up in (so the Strap continues the rolling). Let each Strap fold over onto itself, so the hook and loop connect and secures the Car Mat as a roll. Pick up the Car Mat by the handle.
- Machine stitch close to the edge of each piece (top stitch ⅛ inch)
- Applique stitch using a sewing machine
- Applique stitch by hand
- Slipstitch by hand (this is the most “invisible” option on the finished item
- Tie a knot by looping the thread through the fabric
- Insert the needle through the loop
- Pull the loop tight
- Pull the thread through the tightened loop
- Repeat this another time to create a second knot
- Put the needle down through the fabric where the knot is and bring it out 1-2 inches away
- Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric (not too close!)
- Give the fabric a ruffle and let the end of the thread slip back into the car mat
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet¼ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
Section A – OPTIONAL Quiet Book Decorations
Section B – Assembly
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
¼ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Straps and Handle: Interfacing
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Straps and Handle, apply interfacing to the wrong side of 2x Straps and 1x Handle, using the manufacturer’s instructions.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
¼ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1If you are doing any or all of the decorations, follow the steps in this section. If you are not decorating the blocks or edges, skip to section B.
The instructions show how to assemble the car mat as per the cover photo. However, once you have prepared the pattern pieces, you can mix and match any of the decorations to put them on any of the blocks or edges you choose. There are pattern markings for the placements if you are assembling the blocks as per this tutorial.
TIP – Check that the decorations will fit on all blocks first if you are moving them around.
NOTE – If you are placing the decorations as desired and not as per the pattern markings, remember that each block/edge has a ¼ inch seam allowance. You will need to add your decorations leaving adequate seam allowance.
0 . Optional Fusible Webbing0.0If you are using double sided interfacing, follow this step.
0.1Trace the pattern pieces for all the decorations you are using onto the backing of your iron-on interfacing. Make sure to write what each piece is on the paper side of the interfacing.
NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).
0.2Cut roughly around the interfacing for each piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the interfacing has been attached to the fabric.
0.3Group the interfacing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the oranges together, all of the greens together, and so on).
0.4Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the iron-on adhesive to your fabric pieces, making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
0.5Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.
TIP – Group the pieces by Block/Edge so that all the decorations for each Block/Edge are together.
0.6From here the instructions for the rest of this section are grouped by Block/Edge piece. Mix and match to create the look you want, adding any additional decorations or creativity you want to!
The instructions assume use of double-sided interfacing, following manufacturer’s application instructions. If you are using fabric glue, do this as per the manufacturer’s instructions. If you are stitching only, skip the ironing the interfacing step and go straight to stitching.
NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.
TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using double sided interfacing.
NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.
1 . Gas Station1.0The Gas Station consists of a petrol pump, canopy, and toolbox.
1.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the Tools, but not the Toolbox.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
1.2Iron/glue/place each of the Tools onto the spare fabric.
Stitch together. Then cut around so they are double sided.
TIP – Use pinking shears if you have them for the pointed edge of the saw.
1.3Peel the paper backing off the Canopy.
Place the Canopy onto the right side of Block 1, as per the pattern markings.
Iron/glue/place, then stitch the Canopy in place.
1.4Stitch a 4 inch piece of cord/trim at the pattern marking. This is the ‘hose’ on the Gas Pump.
1.5Peel the paper backing off the Gas Pump.
Iron/glue/place, then stitch the Gas Pump in place, stitching around all edges and the hose.
1.6Iron/glue/place the word ‘TOOLS’ onto the Toolbox piece.
Peel the paper backing off the Toolbox then stitch the word on.
1.7Place the Toolbox onto a scrap piece of fabric. Stitch along the top edge only above the words ‘TOOLS’.
NOTE – Only stitch this edge otherwise you won’t be able to place the Tools inside.
Cut around the original Toolbox piece, including the inside cut out. You will now have a double-sided piece, stitched together at the one edge.
1.8Place the Toolbox onto the right side of Block 1 at the pattern markings.
Glue/place, then stitch around the outer edges of the Toolbox.
NOTE – You are only stitching the outer edges so that the tools can be poked inside.
NOTE – Depending on the finish you want, and the age of the child it is intended for, either leave the Tools loose, or stitch in place.
2 . Mailbox2.0This Mailbox can be opened and closed with a flag that moves up and down, and Letters to go inside.
2.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the Mailbox pieces.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
2.2Iron/glue/place the word ‘MAIL’ onto the Mailbox piece.
INTERFACING: Peel the paper backing off the Mailbox.
Stitch the word to it.
2.3Iron/glue/place one Mailbox Flap to the spare fabric.
Stitch together around the outer curve, leaving the straight edge unstitched.
Then cut around it so it is double sided.
2.4Iron/glue/place the Flag to the spare fabric. Stitch together in the shape of the Flag.
Then cut around it so it is double sided.
2.5Stitch the Flag by hand to Mailbox as desired.
Stitch through several times, then bring the thread out between the layers. Do not cut the thread yet. Wind the thread tightly around the strips of thread between the layers.
Then take the thread through to the back of the Mailbox and tie off.
This will create a shank so that the flag can be twisted up or down like a real mailbox.
2.6Iron/glue/place the Mailbox to the spare fabric. Stitch along the front curved opening only.
Then cut around it so it is double sided.
2.7Place the single layer Mailbox Flap onto Block 2 as per the pattern marking. Iron/glue/place, then stitch in place.
2.8Place the Post onto Block 2 as per the pattern marking. Iron/glue/place, then stitch in place.
2.9Place the Mailbox onto Block 2 as per the pattern marking. Stitch the Mailbox in place, leaving the front curved edge open so the letters can be placed inside.
2.10Place the double-sided flap over the stitched down Flap (from step 2.7). Stitch along the bottom straight edge to hold it in place.
2.11If you wish to have faux writing on the Letters, embroider or stitch this on now.
Iron/glue/place the three Letters to the spare fabric. Stitch together. Then cut around the Letters for three double-sided pieces of post.
NOTE – Depending on the finish you want, and the age of the child it is intended for, either leave the Post loose, or stitch in place.
3 . Drive Through Car Wash3.0This three-dimensional drive through Car Wash is attached by hook and loop tape on one side, so that cars can drive through when in place, or be folded down flat for rolling up.
3.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces except the Bay.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
3.2Iron/glue/place the word ‘CAR WASH’ and the Bubbles in place onto the Bay.
INTERFACING: Peel the paper backing off the Bay.
Stitch the word and Bubbles on.
3.3Iron/glue/place the Bay onto the spare fabric. Stitch all the way around.
Then cut around it so it is double sided.
3.4Iron/glue/place the two Mitter Curtains to the spare fabric. Stitch along the marked horizontal stitch line.
Then cut around each curtain so it is double sided.
3.5Cut along the vertical lines on each of the Mitter Curtains.
3.6Fold a Mitter Curtain in half vertically. Snip ½ inch into the fold from the top.
3.7Fold the top edge over in different directions by ¼ to ½ inch. Press.
3.8Fold the Bay in half lengthwise to find the center. Mark each side with a pin.
3.9Align the snip in the top of one Mitter Curtain with the center point on one side. Pin each opposite piece of the Mitter Curtain in place.
3.10Stitch in place along both folded parts of the Mitter Curtain, keeping them pointed in different directions. This will help the Mitter Curtain point straight down when the car wash is assembled.
3.11Repeat steps 3.6 to 3.10 with the other Mitter Curtain and the other end of the Bay.
3.12Cut a piece of hook & loop tape the length of a short edge of the Bay.
Stitch the hook side (scratchy side) to the underside of one short edge of the Bay.
3.13Place the Bay onto the right side of Block 3, matching the short edge of the Bay (without the hook tape) as per the pattern markings.
Stitch down to secure.
TIP – Stitch in a narrow rectangle approximately ¼ to ½ inch wide for maximum strength.
3.14Place the loop part (furry part) of the tape where you want it to go.
If you have the cars on hand that you will be using with the car wash, run one through the length of the car wash to check it fits easily and little hands can get inside.
Stitch in place.
3.15Check the Mitter Curtains are the correct length. It should just skim the ground when the car wash is in its 3D position with the hook & loop tape aligned. If it is too long, trim this now.
4 . Volcano4.0The Volcano has exploding Lava coming out and a Dinosaur. The Dinosaur can be moved around the mat.
4.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces except the Dinosaur and Volcano.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
4.2Iron/glue/place the two layers of lava onto the Volcano.
INTERFACING: Peel the paper backing off the Volcano.
Stitch the lava on.
4.3Iron/glue/place the Volcano to the spare fabric. Stitch the sides of the lava and top opening only, then cut out so it is double sided.
4.4Iron/glue/place the Spots and Eyes to the Dinosaur. Stitch to hold in place.
OPTIONAL: Hand or machine stitch pupils onto the eyes and a mouth as desired.
4.5OPTIONAL – If you want the Dinosaur to be able to ‘stick’ to other felt items such as the Volcano, stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of the spare fabric.
Place the Dinosaur onto the spare fabric that will become the other side of it. Work out approximately the center of the body of the Dinosaur. Stitch a ¾ inch long piece of hook (scratchy side of hook and loop tape) to the back of the center of the body.
NOTE – If the Block fabric you have chosen is not felt, a small strip of loop tape will need to be stitched where you would like the Dinosaur to be on the block.
4.6Iron/glue/place the Dinosaur to the spare fabric. Stitch all the way around and cut out so it is double sided.
4.7Fold the Exploding Lava edges over by ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press. Fold again by ¼ inch. Press. Topstitch close to the folded edge.
ALTERNATIVE: Serge or overlock stitch the raw edges.
4.8Place the Volcano on Block 4 as per the pattern markings.
Approximately 1 inch above the center bottom edge of the Volcano, stitch one corner of the Exploding Lava in place.
4.9Pin the Volcano in place over the Exploding Lava, making sure the Exploding Lava is not in the way of the pins or where the stitching will be.
4.10Stitch the two sides below the Overflowing Lava and base of the Volcano in place, leaving the top edge and lava area open.
NOTE – Take care not to stitch up into the Overflowing Lava area, otherwise the opening will be too small to get the Exploding Lava in and out of.
4.11Check the Exploding Lava can be pulled out in an ‘explosion’. Tuck it back inside to keep it out of the way as you are assembling the block later.
5 . Lake5.0The lake has Reeds, Bulrushes and Lily Pads with a three-dimensional Bridge crossing over it. There are Fish, Frogs and even an Octopus. The Frog and Octopus can be moved around the mat.
5.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
5.2Iron/glue/place the Bridge to the spare fabric. Stitch all the way around. If desired, hand or machine stitch horizontal lines detail for plank details.
Cut out so it is double sided.
5.3Cut a piece of hook & loop tape to the length of the short edge of the Bridge. Stitch the hook side (scratchy side) to the underside of one short edge of the Bridge.
5.4Decide where you want the Bridge on Block 5. Use the pattern markings to place the Reeds and Lily Pads.
Iron/glue/place then stitch the Reeds and Reed Grass in place.
5.5Stitch back and forwards between the Reeds and Reed Grass a few times using a contrasting thread to make stalks for the Reeds.
5.6Iron/glue/place then stitch the Lily Pads in place.
OPTIONAL: Add decorative stitching onto the Lily Pads.
5.7Iron/glue/place then stitch the Flowers in place.
5.8OPTIONAL: If you want the Frog and Octopus to be able to ‘stick’ to other felt items such as the Bridge or Lily Pads, you will stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of each.
For both the Frog and Octopus, place on the spare fabric that will become the other side of it. Work out approximately the center of the body. Stitch a ½ to ¾ inch long piece of hook (scratchy side of hook and loop tape) to the back of the center of the ‘body’.
NOTE – If the Block fabric you have chosen is not felt, a small strip of loop tape will need to be stitched where you would like the Frog to be on the block.
5.9Iron/glue/place the Frog onto the spare fabric. Stitch all the way around. Cut it out so it is double sided.
If desired, hand or machine stitch detail such as eyes and a mouth.
5.10Iron/glue/place the Octopus onto the spare fabric. Stitch all the way around and cut out so it is double sided. If desired, hand or machine stitch detail such as eyes and a mouth.
NOTE – If the Block fabric you have chosen is not felt, a small strip of loop tape will need to be stitched where you would like the Octopus to be on the block.
5.11Cut 6x pieces of ribbon or trim to attach the Fish to, each varying in length between 4 and 6 inches.
5.12For each Fish, sandwich one end of the ribbon between the Fish tail and the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place the fish in place.
Stitch around the fish. Stitch a couple of times over the ribbon / trim so that it is securely held in place.
Cut out so it is now double sided with a ribbon sticking out of the tail.
NOTE – Take care to lift the ribbon or trim as you get to the tail of the Fish so that you do not cut it while trimming the spare fabric.
5.13Place three of the loose ends of ribbon under where the Bridge will be attached (see step 5.15). Stitch in place, going back and forth a few times to ensure they are secure.
5.14Place the other three loose ends of ribbon under where the loop part of the Bridge will be attached (see step 5.16). Stitch in place.
5.15Stitch the short end of the Bridge that does not have the Hook tape on it to the Block. Stitch in a narrow ½ inch wide rectangle for maximum strength.
5.16Place the loop part (furry part) of the tape where you want it to go for the other end of the Bridge.
Stitch in place.
Close the Bridge by sticking it down onto the loop tape.
6 . City6.0The city has a skyline of Buildings with Clouds floating by.
6.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
6.2Place the Buildings onto the pattern markings on the right side of Block 6.
Iron/glue/place the City in place. Stitch all the way around.
OPTIONAL: If desired, hand or machine stitch horizontal lines detail for building details.
6.3Place the Clouds as per the pattern markings.
Iron/glue/place the Clouds in place onto the block. Stitch all the way around.
7 . Parking Lot7.0The parking lot consists of three Bays for parking.
7.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
7.2Place the Bays onto the right side of Block 7 as per the pattern markings.
Iron/glue/place the Bays in place on the block. Start stitching along the long edge, top short edge and down the second long edge. Repeat a second time to reinforce the Bays. If desired, hand or machine stitch any parking details such as P for Parking signs or Disabled Parking space signs.
8 . Farm8.0The farm consists of two layers of Earth with five Carrots. The Carrots can be moved around the mat.
8.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces except the Carrots and Carrot Tops.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
8.2Iron/glue/place Earth Layer 1 to the spare fabric.
Stitch the wavy top edge only, then cut out so it is double sided.
8.3Iron/glue/place Earth Layer 2 to the spare fabric.
Stitch the wavy top edge only, then cut out so it is double sided.
8.4Place Earth Layer 1 onto Block 8 as per the pattern markings. Stitch along the two straight edges, leaving the top wavy edge open.
8.5Place Earth Layer 2 on top of Earth Layer 1, aligning the two straight edges.
Stitch in place along the straight edges, leaving the top wavy edge open.
8.6For each Carrot Top, iron/glue/place the Carrot Top onto the spare fabric. Stitch the wavy top edge only, then cut out so it is double sided.
8.7OPTIONAL: If you want the Carrots to be able to ‘stick’ to other felt items such as the Earth Layers, we will stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of each Carrot.
For each Carrot, place it on the spare fabric that will become the other side of it. Work out approximately the center of the Carrot. Stitch a narrow piece of hook (scratchy side of hook and loop tape) approximately ⅛ inch wide to the back of the center of the Carrot.
8.8For each Carrot, place the Carrot Top onto the spare fabric for the Carrots so it overlaps onto the fabric by approximately ¼ inch.
Then place the Carrot on top so it butts up against the edge of the fabric and overlaps the Carrot Top by approximately ¼ inch.
Iron/glue/place the Carrots in place.
Stitch all the way around and cut out so it is double sided. Take care not to cut the Carrot Top as you cut around the Carrot.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any decorative detail you want to add to the Carrot.
9 . Barn9.0The Barn has doors that open and close. Behind the door are fences to keep the Chicken, Sheep and Pig inside. All the animals can be moved around the mat.
9.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces except the Barn, Barn Door and the Pig Head, Chicken Body, Sheep Body.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
9.2Iron/glue/place the Window and Barn Roof to the Barn.
INTERFACING: Remove the paper backing from the Barn.
Stitch the Window and Barn Roof in place.
9.3Iron/glue/place the Barn Door X onto the Barn Door.
INTERFACING: Remove the paper backing from the Barn Door.
Stitch the Barn Door X in place.
9.4Iron/glue/place the Barn Door to the spare fabric.
Cut so it is double sided. Do not stitch yet.
9.5Either measure and mark the vertical center of the Barn Door or fold it in half and finger press so there is a vertical fold line.
Cut down this line so there are two double-sided Barn Doors.
9.6Stitch around each Barn Door.
9.7Place the Barn onto Block 9 as per the pattern markings. Iron/glue/place, then stitch the Barn in place.
9.8Place the 4x Fence pieces onto the spare fabric. Stitch around each one and cut out so you have 4 double-sided Fence pieces.
9.9Assemble two Fences. For each one, place 3x non-interfaced Fence Posts vertically. Place 2x Fence pieces horizontally across them. Then place the extra 3x interfaced Fence Posts on top of the non-interfaced ones.
Iron/glue/place in place. Stitch the Fence Posts to secure.
9.10Pin the two assembled Fences into the Barn. For each, stitch down the short edges to hold in place.
9.11Place the Barn Doors into the Barn. Stitch a narrow rectangle down the outside edges to secure so they can open and close.
9.12OPTIONAL: If you want the Pig, Chicken or Sheep to be able to ‘stick’ to other felt items such as the Fence, we will stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of each animal.
For each animal, place the body piece on the spare fabric that will become the other side of it. Work out approximately the center of the body. Stitch a narrow piece of hook (scratchy side of hook and loop tape) approximately ¼ inch wide to the back of the center of the body.
9.13Iron/glue/place the Pig Snout onto the Pig Head.
INTERFACING: Peel the paper backing off the Pig Head.
Stitch the Pig Snout on.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch nostrils onto the Pig Snout.
9.14Place the Pig Body onto the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place, then stitch, in place. Do not cut it out yet.
9.15Place the Pig Head about halfway onto the Pig Body, with the top half hanging over onto the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place, then stitch, in place.
Cut around the full outline of the Pig Body and Pig Head so you have one double sided pig.
9.16Place the 2x Chicken Legs onto the spare fabric. Stitch around each one and cut out so you have 2x Chicken Legs.
9.17Iron/glue/place the Chicken Beak onto the Chicken Body.
INTERFACING: Peel the paper backing off the Chicken Body.
Stitch the Chicken Beak on.
9.18For each Chicken Leg, place the Chicken Leg onto the spare fabric for the Chicken Body so it overlaps by approximately ¼ inch.
Then place the Chicken Body on top so it butts up against the edge of the fabric and overlaps the Chicken Legs by approximately ¼ inch.
Iron/glue/place the Chicken Body place.
Stitch all the way around the Chicken Body and cut out so it is double sided. Take care not to cut the Chicken Legs as you cut around the Chicken Body.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any decorative detail you want to add on the Chicken such as eyes or feathers.
9.19Place the 2x Sheep Legs onto the spare fabric. Stitch around each one and cut out so you have 2x Sheep Legs.
9.20Iron/glue/place the Sheep Face onto the Sheep Body, approximately ¼ inch from the top of the Sheep Body.
INTERFACING: Peel the paper backing off the Sheep Body.
Stitch the Sheep Face on.
9.21For each Sheep Leg, place the Sheep Leg onto the spare fabric for the Sheep Body so it overlaps by approximately ¼ inch.
Then place the Sheep Body on top so it butts up against the edge of the fabric and overlaps the Sheep Legs by approximately ¼ inch.
Iron/glue/place the Sheep Body place. Do not cut out yet.
Stitch all the way around the Sheep Body and cut out so it is double sided. Take care not to cut the Sheep Legs as you cut around the Sheep Body.
9.22Place the Sheep Head onto the Sheep, overlapping the Sheep Face by approximately ⅛ inch.
Stitch all the way around the Sheep Head. Cut out the Sheep so it is double sided. Take care not to cut the Sheep Legs as you cut around the Sheep Body.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any decorative detail you want to add on the Sheep such as eyes or mouth.
10 . Castle10.0The Castle is surrounded by trees and has a raised flag and a Drawbridge that opens. The Dragon can be moved around the mat.
10.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
10.2Place the Drawbridge onto the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place in place. Do not cut out yet.
10.3OPTIONAL: Add decorative stitches to Drawbridge.
To do it as per the photos, starting at the straight bottom edge using a regular straight stitch, stitch horizontal lines all the way up the drawbridge. Use the presser foot to align with the raw edge. Then as you stitch further lines, use the last line to keep lines the same width apart.
Fold the Drawbridge in half vertically and finger press to get an initial line to follow. Stitch this using a regular straight stitch.
Using this first vertical line as a guide, stitch vertical lines either side all the way out to the edges. To keep the stitch line straight, align the edge of the presser foot with the line next door.
10.4Iron/glue/place then stitch the Drawbridge Edge to the Drawbridge.
Cut around the Drawbridge so it is double sided.
10.5Place the Castle onto the right side of Block 10 as per the pattern markings. Lay each of the pieces so they overlap. We will assemble it from the top down, but by placing it all on the fabric first, you can see what will go where.
Leave the Flag on the fabric but remove the other items. Iron/glue/place then stitch the Flag in place.
10.6Place the Turret onto the Block so that it overlaps the Flag by approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch. Iron/glue/place, then stitch, in place.
OPTIONAL: Add any decorative stitches you would like to the Turret such as roof tiles.
10.7Place the Tower onto the Block so that it overlaps the Turret by just enough so that you cannot see the bottom edge of the Turret.
Iron/glue/place, then stitch, in place.
OPTIONAL: Add any decorative stitches you would like to the Tower such as stone details.
10.8Place the Castle onto the Block so that it overlaps the Tower by just enough so that you cannot see the bottom edge of the Tower.
Iron/glue/place, then stitch, in place. Add any decorative stitches you would like to the Castle such as stone details.
10.9Place the Drawbridge into the Castle. Stitch a narrow rectangle along the bottom edge to secure it so it can open and close.
10.10Decide where you want to place the 2x Trees and the Bush on the Block.
For each Tree, Iron/glue/place then stitch the Trunk in place.
OPTIONAL: machine or hand stitch any decorative detail onto the Trunk such as knots or bark.
10.11Place the Trees in place on top of the Trunks overlapping just enough so that you cannot see the top straight edge of the Trunk. Iron/glue/place then stitch in place.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any decorative detail onto the Tree such as leaves, bird nests or anything else you wish.
10.12Iron/glue/place then stitch the Bush in place onto the Block.
10.13OPTIONAL: If you want the Dragon to be able to ‘stick’ to other felt items such as the Castle, we will stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of it.
Place the Dragon body piece on the spare fabric that will become the other side of it. Work out approximately the center of the body. Stitch a narrow piece of hook (scratchy side of hook and loop tape) approximately ½ inch wide to the back of the center of the body.
Place the Dragon onto the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place then stitch around it.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any desired details onto the Dragon such as nostrils, eyes or mouth.
Cut around the Dragon so you have one double sided Dragon.
11 . Roundabout11.0The roundabout is filled with flowers.
11.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
11.2Place each of the 5x Flowers on the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place in place and stitch all the way around each one.
Cut out so you have 5x double-sided Flowers.
11.3If you are using buttons, stitch a buttonhole in the approximate center of each Flower.
If you are using snaps (pictured), attach the male part of the snap to the approximate center of each Flower.
NOTE – If you aren’t sure which is the male / female part of the snap, just make sure each of the Flowers have the same side of the snap attached, and in the next step that the matching parts go on the Block.
11.4Decide where you would like each of the Flowers on the Block.
If you are using buttons, stitch a button where you want each Flower to go.
If you are using snaps (pictured), iron a small scrap of interfacing (regular interfacing, not double-sided) to the back of where you want each of the Flowers to go. Then attach the female part of the snap.
11.5Button or snap the Flowers into place.
12 . Campsite12.0The Campsite has a tent that opens with a fire close by and is surrounded by trees. The Bear can be moved around the mat.
12.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces except the Bear.
The block will be assembled as per the line drawing here.
12.2Decide where you would like the Tent and Trees to go.
Iron/glue/place and stitch the Tent in place.
12.3Place the Tent Door on the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place in place. Do not stitch yet.
Cut out so you have one large Tent Door piece.
12.4Fold the Tent Door approximately in half vertically. Press with your fingers to create a fold line. Cut down the fold line so there are 2x Tent Door pieces.
Stitch around each Tent Door piece.
TIP – Place the Tent Door against the edge of the Tent to check you have it the correct way up before folding and cutting.
12.5Butt the Tent Door pieces up against the Tent. Stitch in place using a long ¼ inch wide rectangle stitch down each outer edge.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any Tent details you would like, such as guy ropes or poles.
12.6Place each of 3x the Tree Trunk pieces in place on the block. Iron/glue/place then stitch each in place.
12.7Place each of 3x the Tree pieces in place on the block. Iron/glue/place then stitch each in place.
12.8Place the first Log piece in place where you would like it on the block. Iron/glue/place then stitch in place.
12.9Place the second Log piece in place where you would like it on the block. Iron/glue/place then stitch in place.
12.10Place the Big Fire piece in place where you would like it on the Logs. Iron/glue/place then stitch in place.
12.11Place the Small Fire piece in place where you would like it on the Big Fire. Iron/glue/place then stitch in place.
12.12Place the Bear Face and Bear Tummy on the Bear. Iron/glue/place.
Remove the paper backing from the Bear, then stitch the Bear Face and Bear Tummy in place.
OPTIONAL: If you want the Bear to be able to ‘stick’ to other felt items such as the Tent or Trees, we will stitch a small strip of hook tape to the back of it.
Place the Bear piece on the spare fabric that will become the other side of it. Work out approximately the center of the body. Stitch a narrow piece of hook (scratchy side of hook and loop tape) approximately ½ inch wide to the back of the center of the body.
12.13Place the Bear onto the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place then stitch around it.
OPTIONAL: Machine or hand stitch any desired details such as eyes or mouth.
Cut around the Bear so you have one double sided Bear.
13 . Edge Piece - Houses13.0The edge piece has three Houses with windows and a door that opens and closes.
13.1If you have used fusible webbing, peel the paper backing off each of the pieces.
The Edge piece will be assembled as per the lined drawing here.
13.2Place each of the 3x Houses on the Edge piece. Check the position and that the Grass piece will overlap slightly when you add it.
Iron/glue/place each of the Houses in place and stitch all the way around each one.
13.3Place each of the Roofs on the Houses where you want them. Iron/glue/place, then stitch in place.
13.4Place each of the Windows on the Houses where you want them. Iron/glue/place, then stitch in place.
13.5Place each of the 3x Doors onto the spare fabric. Iron/glue/place then stitch all the way around each one.
Cut out each of the Doors so you have 3x double-sided Doors.
13.6Place the Grass on the Edge piece so it overlaps the Houses slightly. Iron/glue/place, then stitch in place.
Place the Doors where you want them on the Houses. Stitch down one side of the Doors so they are attached but can open and close.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
¼ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0If you have added decorations, pin any loose decorations into the center of each Block to ensure they are out of the way while stitching and constructing the Blocks & Edges.
1 . Blocks Assembly1.0For each of Block 1 to 12, repeat the following steps:
1.1Place the Main Block and Block Lining pieces right sides together. Pin all outer edges.
1.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not leave any gaps for turning. You will be creating a hole in the lining in step 1.5.
1.3Clip the corners to reduce bulk, being careful not to clip into or too close to the stitching.
Either use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance or trim the seam allowance with regular fabric scissors to neaten and then clip the curves so it turns through nicely.
1.4Carefully pull the Block Lining away from the Main Block and any decorations if added.
1.5Clip a hole approximately in the center of the Block Lining piece only. For the bigger Block pieces, your hole should be approximately 2-3 inches. For the smaller block pieces, it will be less.
NOTE – Take care not to clip the fabric or any optional decorations. Also take care not to clip within ½ inch of any stitching.
1.6Turn the Block through the hole you just made.
1.7Use a blunt object such as a point turner, knitting needle or chopstick to poke through any pointy edges of the block.
Carefully roll the seams on the edges so that the seam line is directly in the middle of the edge. This way the lining will not show from the right side.
Press.
2 . Edges Assembly2.0For each of the Edge pieces A to E, repeat the following steps:
2.1Place the Main Edge and Edge Lining pieces right sides together.
2.2For Edge piece A, stitch both short edges and the curved edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Do not stitch the long straight edge.
For the straight Edge pieces, B, C and D, stitch one long straight side using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Do not stitch the two short edges or the other long side.
For Edge piece E, stitch all sides using a ¼ inch seam allowance except the long straight edge, and the short straight edge at right angles to this.
For the 3x Corner Edge pieces, stitch the short edges and the curved edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Do not stitch the two long straight edges.
2.3Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Take care not to clip too close to the stitching.
Either use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance or trim the seam allowance with regular fabric scissors to neaten and then clip the curves so it turns through nicely.
Turn the Edge piece right sides out.
2.4Use a blunt object such as a point turner, knitting needle or chopstick to poke through any pointy edges of the edge piece.
Carefully roll the seams on the edges so that the seam line is directly in the middle of the edge. This way the lining won’t show from the right side.
Press.
3 . Attach Blocks & Edges3.0Before proceeding with this step, lay all your Edge and Block pieces in place on your Road fabric. Check they all fit. Read through the steps below to get an idea of how it all assembles together.
3.1Lay the Road right side facing up. Place Edge pieces B, C, D and E into place on the Road fabric, right sides facing up. Pin.
3.2Pin Edge piece A and the Corner Edge pieces into place, right sides facing up, on top of the others already there.
The finished short sides of Edge piece A and the Corner Edge pieces should cover the raw short sides of the pieces already on the mat.
3.3Place each Block in place as per the pattern markings, right sides facing up.
Depending on how your pieces have pressed, you might need to adjust the position of the Blocks so that the roads are even widths. Move around as desired and pin to secure.
3.4Sew the Blocks and Edge pieces to the road fabric.
There are several options how to do this. Choose the look/method you prefer:
4 . Carpark and Road Lines4.1If you have used double sided interfacing, peel the paper backing off the Carpark piece.
Place the Main Carpark and Carpark Lining right sides together. Stitch two short edges and one long edge.
4.2Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Trim the seam allowances to neaten.
4.3Turn the Carpark right sides out.
Carefully roll the seams on the edges so that the seam line is directly in the middle of the edge. This way the lining won’t show from the right side.
TIP – Use a blunt object such as a point turner, knitting needle or chopstick to poke through the corners.
4.4The next step of pressing will fuse the fabric and lining together if you have used fusible webbing. This will give the Carpark strength and hold the layers together.
Making sure the pieces are aligned, press. Start at the folded edges, moving towards the raw edge.
Transfer stitch lines to Carpark.
TIP – With right side facing up, press a fold ½ inch from each end of the Carpark. Fold Carpark in half and press fold. Open out flat then line one outer fold with center fold and press the new fold. Repeat for opposite end and you will have five evenly spaced fold lines which can be lined up with the stitch lines on the Road base fabric.
4.5Place the Carpark onto the Road, right sides facing up, matching the pattern markings and with raw edge of Carpark matching raw edge of Road base. Pin the short markings.
NOTE – The back of the Carpark will still be open at this stage.
NOTE – The middle mark on the Carpark pattern piece is at the fold line.
4.6Stitch each line to secure.
TIP – Go back and forwards a couple of times over the stitching as this can get pulled at as cars are put into the Carpark.
4.7Fold the back of the Carpark down like a box pleat and pin in place.
If you don’t know how to do a box pleat, push the sides in and the top down so that it folds neatly underneath itself.
NOTE – Pleats should be equal sized approximately ½ inch from the stitch lines.
4.8Stitch the back of the Carpark in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Stitch over a few times to hold it in place.
4.9Using disappearing ink or tailors chalk, draw a line in the center of all the roads. You will use this line as a guide for your stitching.
TIP – Use a fabric marker to paint the lines on rather than stitching the lines onto the road.
4.10You will use a straight stitch to stitch the road lines on. Thread the needle with white (or colored) embroidery floss/thread and tie a knot in the end of the thread.
Insert the needle from the wrong side of the Road fabric at the point you want to start stitching. Pull the thread to the right side.
Push the needle down about ½ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.
Push the needle back up to the right side about ½ inch away from the last stitch, this will create a space between the first stitch. Pull the thread all the way through to the right side.
Keep repeating creating the road lines around the entire car mat.
5 . Quilt5.0If you are an experienced quilter, quilt the car mat in your preferred method. Alternatively, follow below for how we have done it here.
5.1Place the Backing right side down on a flat surface. Make sure it is smoothed out flat.
5.2Place the Batting onto the Backing.
Make sure the Batting is smoothed flat and centered in the middle of the Backing.
The Backing should be bigger than the Batting by 1 inch on all sides.
5.3Place the finished Road fabric onto the Batting.
Make sure the Road fabric is smoothed flat and centered in the middle of the Batting.
The Batting should be bigger than the Road fabric by 1 inch on all sides.
5.4Pin all layers together.
You can use pins or safety pins to do this. We have used curved quilting safety pins here as they are easier to insert and get through the layers without moving them. It is also easier to handle the fabric and know you won’t get poked by a stray pin.
If you are using pins, take care to keep the layers in the same place (do not move them around, keep them aligned together how you had them in step 5.3).
Pin frequently through the car mat so that there are pins every few inches to hold it all together. There should be pins approximately every 3-5 inches throughout the car mat.
5.5Now we need to quilt the mat together. You can either do this by hand or using a sewing machine.
If you are doing it by machine, stitch around all blocks and edge pieces now. Remove all pins. Skip to step 6 for OPTIONAL Fastenings or step 7.
If you are doing it by hand, thread a needle with a matching thread to your Road fabric. Tie the ends together in a knot.
TIP – A great way to get the ‘right’ side knot is to dampen your finger, then to wrap the thread around your index finger. Roll your finger and thumb together so the thread up rolls off your finger. Pull the thread taut to then create a knot.
5.6Working from the right side of the fabric, insert the needle 1-2 inches away from where you want to start. Bring it up where you want to start.
5.7Hold the fabric taut and gently pull the knot through the fabric.
It should “pop” through the fabric so that the knot is now inside the quilt.
If the knot comes all the way through the fabric and out again, tie the knot a second time so it is physically bigger. You want the knot small enough to get through inserting it into the quilt, but big enough to not automatically come out the other side.
5.8Thread the needle up and down through all layers with approximately ¼ inch between each stitch.
5.9Stitch all the way around each block and edge piece.
When you get to the end of your thread,
NOTE – To make it easy to see, we have photographed the knotting off process on a plain piece of fabric. You would use this every time your thread ran out as you sewed around the blocks on the Road fabric.
6 . OPTIONAL Fastenings6.0If you wish to be able to roll the car mat up and carry it around, follow these steps. Otherwise skip to step 7.
NOTE – Premade straps or webbing can be used in place of the fabric straps.
6.1For a Strap, fold one strap piece in half along its length, right sides together.
We will be using this fold line as a guide. You don’t need to Iron/glue/place it. Instead, create a finger press by pressing the fold with your fingers on a hard surface so it makes a dent in the fabric.
Open the fabric back out again and lay it right sides up.
Cut a piece of hook and loop (both the furry and the scratchy sides) approximately 1.5 inches long.
6.2We now want to center each piece on the Strap, making sure we allow for seam allowances.
Mark ¼ inch in from the seam allowance on the long side of one end of the Strap.
Mark ¼ inch from the seam allowance diagonally opposite on the other end of the Strap.
6.3Place the hook (scratchy) part of the hook and loop tape onto the fabric 1½ inches from the short raw edge.
Align it so it is centered between the fold line and the mark from step 6.4.
Stitch in place.
6.4Place the loop (furry) part of the hook and loop tape onto the other end of the Strap, on the opposite side.
Align it so it is ½ inch from the short raw edge, and centered between the fold line and the other mark from step 6.2
Stitch in place.
6.5Fold the Strap in half lengthways, right sides together. Pin.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance across the short end near the loop (furry) end of the Strap, then along the long side. Do not stitch the other end of the Strap with the hook (scratchy).
6.6Trim the corners to reduce bulk. Do not trim too close to the stitching.
6.7Turn the Strap through and press. Make sure the corners are poked through fully. If needed, use a point turner or a blunt pointy object such as a knitting needle or chopstick to poke them through fully.
OPTIONAL: Topstitch around the 2 long sides and stitch the short side of the Strap using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
6.8Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.7 with the other Strap so you have 2x identical Straps.
You should now have 2x Straps, with the hook part near the open short edge on one side of the Strap, and the loop part near the stitched short edge on the other side of the Strap.
6.9Fold the Handle in half lengthways, right sides together. Pin the bottom edge.
Stitch along this long edge using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
6.10Turn the Handle through so it is right sides out. Press.
6.11OPTIONAL: Topstitch down both long sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
If you want further decorative stitches, fold the Handle in half along its length, finger press, open back out and stitch down the centerline. Then stitch again at the ¼ and ¾ points so there are 5 evenly spaced lines across.
Alternatively, you could embroider or use fabric paint (or cut & stitch felt) to put your family name, or a child’s name on the Handle. Remember to allow for ¼ inch seam allowances on either end with any decorative stitching.
6.12Place the car mat right sides up with the Carpark right in front of you. Fold the side of the mat without the Carpark over onto the Carpark.
The car mat should now be folded with the fold line running away from the Carpark away down the mat.
6.13When we fold up the mat, we will roll it from the Carpark down the mat (that way any cars stored in the Carpark stay tucked away safely).
Do this now to get an idea of how it will be.
6.14When you get to the other end, this is where we will attach the Straps. This should be directly opposite the Carpark.
Put a pin in the Car Mat where the fold is on the edge still sticking out from the rolled up Car Mat.
Unroll the Car Mat again. Then measure in from the raw edge of the Batting, 3 inches and mark with a pin.
Measure in from the folded edge 3 inches and mark a pin.
6.15Lay the Straps with the raw edges matching the outer Edge C, and the Strap facing into the mat, centered over each pin.
NOTE – The hook part of the hook and loop should be at this end and facing UP.
Pin in place.
6.17Place each end of the Handle next to the inside edge of each Strap. Align the raw edges of the Handle with the edge of the Edge C fabric.
NOTE – Make sure the Handle is not twisted.
Pin in place.
6.18For the ends of the Straps and Handles, stitch in place, making a 1-inch rectangle ¼ inch from the edge of each end. Stitch diagonally across to make a X in the middle for additional strength.
NOTE – This little rectangle gives more strength to the Strap / Handle than just stitching or basting across the edge. It will be visible in the final car mat (on both the top and bottom of the mat), however after having children carry the mat around with lots of cars stacked in the Carpark, plus various other toys and treasures they had tucked away, I highly recommend going for the stronger option and doing the rectangle!
7 . Bind Edges7.0If you are an experienced quilter, bind the edges of the car mat in your preferred method. Alternatively, follow below for how we have done it here.
7.1Lay the car mat flat.
If you have done the Handle and Straps, make sure they are laying into the car mat and are out of the way of the seam allowance.
7.2Starting with one long edge (heading away from the Carpark towards the Straps) fold the Backing over onto the Batting.
7.3Fold the Batting over onto the Car Mat so that the part of the Backing you can see is approximately ½ the width of the straight parts of the Edging (e.g. so the Backing & Edges are approximately equal widths).
Pin in place.
7.4Repeat step 7.3 with the parallel long edge.
7.5Repeat step 7.3 with the short edge where the Carpark is.
When you get to the corners, you can either fold the Backing under diagonally, so the corners look ‘mitered’. Or you can keep it straight and just make sure any raw edges are tucked well inside.
7.6Repeat step 7.3 with the short edge where the Straps and Handle are.
Make sure the Straps and Handle are flat and not twisted.
7.7Either machine or hand stitch along all sides, including in the corners to stitch it all in place.
If you have added the Handle and Straps, continue to step 8. If not, your Car Mat is all finished!
8 . OPTIONAL Rolling the Mat Up8.0To use the Car Mat, lay it out flat and tuck the Straps & Handles under the mat. If you are putting it on carpet, make sure the loop (furry) side of the Straps are folded onto the hook (scratchy) side, so the hook part doesn’t get stuck to the carpet.
When you are ready to roll the mat up, follow the steps below.
8.1Lay the Car Mat flat. If you have done the Car Wash and/or the Lake, lay the Car Wash and Bridge flat. Ensure all cars are in the Carpark and all small parts are in place.
Extend the Handle and Straps off the edge of the Car Mat out flat.
8.2Fold the side of the Car Mat without the Carpark over onto the Carpark, with the fold line running away from the Carpark towards the Straps.
8.3Starting at the Carpark, roll the Car Mat over and over until you get to the Straps.
8.4Leave the Straps facing away from the Car Mat.
8.5Roll each Strap around the Car Mat in the same direction you’ve just rolled the Car Mat up in (so the Strap continues the rolling).
8.6Let each Strap fold over onto itself, so the hook and loop connect and secures the Car Mat as a roll.
8.7Pick up the Car Mat by the handle and you are ready to take it where you’d like.
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
¼ inch seam allowance included - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0Some optional ideas to make your car mat even more exciting
Get as creative as you want with your Car Mat. These pieces are versatile and fun to create other blocks and unique variations.
PATTERN PIECES – After cutting out give children the pattern pieces and let them get creative coloring, gluing, and decorating. The pattern pieces can be a game on their own and make for a brilliant DIY coloring mat!
1 . Playground1.1You will need two different color fabrics for the roundabout playground and a snap for attaching.
Draw a circle with four smaller circles inside. Cut the circles out of one color fabric.
Place the circle on top of another color fabric. Cut only the larger circle.
Use your preferred method to attach the two pieces together.
1.2Cut two small rectangles for the seat. Sandwich two pieces of cord/trim in between the two pieces. Use your preferred method to attach these together.
Stitch/glue the straps to your Block.
1.3Cut three rectangle pieces for the swing stand. Stitch in place.
1.4Attach a snap to the roundabout and the Block and snap into place.
Follow the Block assembly instructions to complete.
2 . Large Clock2.1Draw your clock shape. Cut out your shapes.
Use your preferred method to attach these together.
Place on the Block and stitch in place.
Follow the Block assembly instructions to complete.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Cut Files
File Types
We have included three to four file types for you to choose from. Please choose whichever you are more familiar with or works best with your cutting machine. For cut files of the smaller pieces for some of our patterns, like the Dolls House Quiet Book and Add-on, we do not include a PDF copy. All versions come with .SVG, .PNG, and .DXF.
You will start by downloading the files from your account. Open your software and choose the file type you’d like to work with.
Pattern Cut Files
When working with cut files to cut small pattern pieces, it is imperative that you make sure the file is the correct size prior to cutting. We have included a one-inch square box offset in each file. You should be able to move the square off to the side, so it isn’t cut with the rest of your file. For files that also have square pieces, please be sure to compare them to the cut chart in the original file instructions. We’d always prefer you double check than have something cut out that isn’t useable!
Other Cut Files
For all other cut files, you should resize to your project needs. Please do keep in mind the size of some of the features. Going very small may make it difficult to cut smaller fonts or finer details.
Media
As mentioned earlier, it is very important to choose the correct media to for your cut. There is a huge selection to choose from and it can be overwhelming. Be sure to use the materials suggested by your machine for the type of project you are completing.
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Car Mat Quiet Book is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpcarmat.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing Information
Project Overview
Car Mat Quiet Book
Difficulty Level = Beginner
You can either sew this car mat as a plain car mat, with a little ‘carpark’ to store the cars in, and non-decorated blocks in between the roads. Or you can sew it as a quiet-book-type car mat, with all kinds of decorations and interactive elements to play with, in addition to the cars, and set imaginations on fire!
The plain car mat is a much quicker, simpler sew. The quiet book version of the car mat is a labor of love! It’s a very easy sew (and using fusible webbing, you can make the sew quicker), but there’s no hiding from it – it is a long sew! You can pick and choose elements, moving them to wherever you want them on the mat, and adding any and all creative extras you want. It’s a sew you can lose yourself in and have the most wonderful time, creating a true heirloom your family will hand down through the generations.
Add the optional straps to roll the car mat up and a handle to carry it with.
Sizing
Size Range
Craft
Finished Measurements (Inches)
|
Width |
Length |
|
|
Car Mat |
34.0 |
42.0 |
Materials and Tools
Main and Lining fabric – You will need any medium weight woven (non-stretch) fabric that will work, such as quilting cotton, cotton, or poly cotton. Most people use a dark color for the Roads as all the blocks will be placed on top, leaving this exposed as the roads.
NOTE – If you are using light colored fabrics for your blocks & edges, use either the same fabric, or a plain fabric to line them with so that you cannot see the dark road fabric underneath.
OPTIONAL Quiet Book Fabrics – these are the fabrics for the decorations on each block (e.g. the volcano, the dinosaur, the frog etc.). The edges of these are not finished so we recommend a non-fraying fabric such as felt. You will need assorted colors in scrap size. Many stores sell felt packs, or it is a great one to raid your stash for. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Lava to the Volcano you will need a lightweight fabric such as chiffon or georgette that will be the Fabric Lava inside the volcano.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
|
|
Main |
Lining |
|
Exterior |
1.50 |
N/A |
|
Road |
1.25 |
N/A |
|
Carpark |
0.25 |
0.25 |
|
Blocks / Edges |
1.00 |
1.00 |
|
OPTIONAL Decorations |
Scraps |
N/A |
|
OPTIONAL Lava |
0.25 |
N/A |
|
OPTIONAL Straps & Handle |
0.50 |
0.50 |
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
|
|
Main |
Lining |
|
Exterior |
1.50 |
N/A |
|
Road |
1.25 |
N/A |
|
Carpark |
0.25 |
0.25 |
|
Blocks / Edges |
1.00 |
1.00 |
|
OPTIONAL Decorations |
Scraps |
N/A |
|
OPTIONAL Lava |
0.25 |
N/A |
|
OPTIONAL Straps & Handle |
0.50 |
0.50 |
NOTE – Blocks are the areas that create the blocks between the roads. Edges are around the exterior of the mat. You can use the equivalent in scraps if you wish to have each block or edge in a different fabric.
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.
You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Fusible webbing e.g. Pellon 805 Wonder-Under, ‘heat n bond’, ‘bondaweb’, fusible web or iron-on adhesive. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient if adding all decorations.
- OR OPTIONAL Fabric glue – If you are not using double-sided interfacing, use this as an alternative.
- OPTIONAL Medium or light weight fusible interfacing. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient.
- OPTIONAL Handle and Straps – ¼ yard of Iron on interfacing.
- NOTE – Premade straps or webbing can be used in place of the fabric straps.
- Batting – about 1 ½ yards, this project can get quite thick, so choosing a thin and stable batting will be quite helpful.
- OPTIONAL Roundabout – 5x ½ inch wide Snaps / Buttons for the Flowers
- OPTIONAL Hook and Loop tape (Velcro) – Approximately 1 yard. This is used for the OPTIONAL Quiet Book decorations and the OPTIONAL Straps. If you are adding the Drive Through Car Wash you will need a piece of tape. Other decorations have optional tape.
- OPTIONAL Trims – If you are adding decorations, you can use additional trims such as embroidery floss, fabric paint, buttons, ribbon.
- Thread – various colors to match
Tools needed are sewing machine (or you could do it by hand), needle (this project can get quite thick. You might find it easier to use a needle designed for thicker projects, rather than the standard needle size), scissors, pins. OPTIONAL safety pins or quilting safety pins for attaching all the layers before you sew them together. OPTIONAL iron (if using fusible interfacing/adhesive).