Children’s Amsterdam Coat

OPTIONAL Label

If you have a business label, or a child’s name tag you wish to attach, do this now before you start. A good place is either in the center back of the Back Facing (halfway up the Facing), or about an inch below the neckline in the center of the Back piece.

OPTIONAL Hanging Loop

If you would like a hanging loop (to use to hang your finished coat on a hook for example), cut a strip of fabric from your contrast fabric 2 inches wide by 2½ inches long. Then use the Button Loop instructions at step 5 now to fold it like double fold bias tape and then top stitch (so that it is ½ inch wide by 2½ inches long). Fold both ends under ¼ inch and position horizontally in the centre back of the Back Lining, approximately 1 inch below the raw neckline edge. Top stitch both ends in place.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL Pockets, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 2.

Fold the top raw edge of each Pocket toward the wrong side of the fabric ½ inch and press.

Fold the top edge of each Pocket again toward the wrong side of the fabric another ½ inch and press again.

Top stitch the fold down approximately ⅛ inch from the first folded edge of both Pockets. Top stitch again another ⅛ inch up from your first line of stitching so there are now two lines of stitching. If you wish to use a twin needle, top stitch from the right side of the fabric and position your right needle just under ½ inch from the edge.

Baste ¼ inch from the edge around the other three sides of both Pockets.

NOTE – If you are unfamiliar with basting, it is a loose long temporary stitch used to secure two or more fabrics together or marking on places like these fold lines. If your sewing machine does not have a specific basting stitch, lengthen your regular stitch so it is as long and loose as possible. Do a test on a scrap of fabric to check you are happy with it before basting the Pocket edges. You should be able to pull it out again with your fingers without too much difficulty. Baste using a contrasting thread on where the thread will show on the right side of the fabric to remove it more easily.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

Press the seam allowance on both Pockets under ¼ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric. Use the basting stitches you just did in step 1.4 as a guide. Make sure the stitches are just on the wrong side of the fabric so that when you look at the Pocket from the right side of the fabric, you can’t see them.

TIP – I find it helps to do this step quite slowly with the wrong side of the fabric facing me as I press. I also find it easier to pin the seam allowance down as I go to hold it in place. If you do this, make sure to use metal dressmaker pins so that the heads don’t melt, and the pins don’t damage your iron if you catch them (e.g. don’t use plastic headed pins to do this).

Mark your Pocket placements onto the front pieces of the coat using the markings on the front pattern pieces.

Tip – There are many methods of doing this. If you have done this before, use the one you are most familiar with.

If you haven’t done this before, lay the fabric right side up on your ironing board. Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately. Place a pin directly through the top corner points and bottom of the Pocket, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place. Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have pins marking each of the corner points of the Pocket. Connect the dots in between using tailors chalk or a special pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out.

Pin one Pocket to each of the front pattern pieces. Use the placement markings on the front piece as a guide to get them in the right place.

TIP – Alternately, instead of pins, you can use a wash-away double-sided tape such as Wonder Tape on the wrong side of the Pocket.

Top stitch around each Pocket to hold it in place ⅛ inch from the edge of the Pocket. Only stitch around the sides and bottom of the Pocket. Do not stitch across the top. Go slowly around the rounded corners, lifting your presser foot with the needle down to reposition the fabric as needed.

TIP – If you find the fabric slipping or are finding it difficult to get traction at the beginning of the seam, switch your presser foot. A walking foot is ideal; however, have a look at the other suggestions in the Sewing Tips if you don’t have one. This also applies if you find your thread bunching up under the beginning of the seam and making a knot underneath the fabric.

Top stitch again around each Pocket, this time at ¼ inch from the edge.

This second row of top stitching is to give a really professional finish and help hide the raw edges inside the Pocket. It also reinforces the Pockets ready for little hands and all the treasures little hands like to stuff in their Pockets!

Pin the two Fronts and back bodice pieces with the right sides of the fabric together at shoulder seams. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Press the seam open.

NOTE – If you are doing the optional shoulder detail, follow the rest of the steps in this section. If not, skip to step 3.

OPTIONAL Shoulder Detail – 

Press the top and bottom edges of the Back yoke by ½ inch toward the wrong side of the fabric.

TIP- To turn the curved bottom edge under evenly, try stitching a basting stitch (loose, long stitch) using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then, using your stitching line as a guide to turn under and press.

Transfer the markings of the yoke on the Front coat pieces by folding the Front pattern piece on the placement line. Position the yoke on the shoulders by aligning it with the front markings and the neckline. Pin in place or use a wash-away double-sided tape such as Wonder Tape on the wrong side of the yoke to secure in place.

From the right side of the fabric, top stitch on along the top and bottom edges of the yoke using a ⅛ seam allowance. Using a long and loose stitch, baste the other raw edges of the yoke to the Front and Back just under ¼ inch (e.g. around the neckline and shoulder curves).

In the photo you are top stitching along the yellow lines and basting along the green lines.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

If you are doing the optional sleeve tab, follow the steps below. If not, skip to step 4.

Pin two mirror image Sleeve Tabs with the right sides of the fabrics together. Repeat for the other two Sleeve Tabs you have left. You should now have 2 sets of Sleeve Tabs.

Stitch around each set using a ¼ inch seam allowance, leaving the straight diagonal end open. Go slowly around the curve and lift your presser foot with the needle down to reposition the fabric as needed.

Using the very tip of your scissors, make little snips around the curve. Make these snips about once every ½ inch. Alternately, you can use pinking shears.

Turn both tabs right way out and press. Top stitch ⅛ inch from the edges around the three stitched sides, leaving the diagonal end open.

Pin each Sleeve Tab to the right side of a sleeve in mirrored position. Align the bottom edge of the tabs so they are 1.5 inches from the raw edge of the bottom of each Sleeve.

Baste the short raw edge of each Sleeve tab in place onto the Sleeves.

We are now going to ease the Sleeves to distribute the fullness of the Sleeve into the armhole. 

To do this, sew a first line of basting stitches just under the ¼ seam allowance along the Sleeve caps (the curve of the Sleeve that will go over the shoulder). Sew a second row of basting stitches between the seam allowance and the raw edge.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

Place a pin to mark each shoulder seam of the coat. Fold each Sleeve in half and mark the midway point of the Sleeve curve with a pin.

TIP – If you have used a contrast fabric for the shoulder yoke that marks easily, use a clip instead of a pin, or pin carefully inside the seam allowance to avoid making visible holes in your contrast fabric.

Pin one Sleeve to one coat armhole right sides together starting at the shoulder seam. Make sure you pin the correct Sleeve to the correct side of the coat. If you have done the Sleeve Tabs, they should be basted to the side of the Sleeve that is closest the front of the coat, with the open part of the tab pointing towards the Back.

Pin the edges of the Sleeve to the edges of the armholes on the coat. 

Pull on the bobbin thread very slightly to fit the armhole of the bodice and pin along the remainder of the Sleeve.

Sew the seam with the short side on top making sure that there are no puckers. Press. 

Remove any stitches from ease stitching that are visible from the right side of the garment.

Stitch a second row of stitches in the seam allowance to give the shoulder some strength (this is especially important for smaller kids who are running, playing, jumping etc.).

Repeat steps 4.3 to 4.5 with the other Sleeve.

Pin and stitch the underarm and side seam all in one go from cuff down to hem using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Make sure the armhole seams are aligned together neatly before stitching.

NOTE – Coat Fastenings

Before proceeding to step 5 or 6 you need to decide whether you want the left or the right of the coat front to fold on top when you close the coat. 

Traditionally, ladies coat close with the left piece on top as you look at the coat (or your right as you are wearing it). Men’s double-breasted coats close in the opposite direction. 

The reason being is that ladies used to have ladies maids helping them get dressed and this enabled right-handed ladies maids to do up the ladies coat more easily from the front. Whereas men more commonly did their own coats up. Nowadays (with a distinct lack of ladies maids!) both styles are common for either gender.

If you would like your coat to be traditional, for females, the left front piece needs to close on top as you look at the coat. For males, the right front piece needs to close on top. 

If you don’t mind (or you are a left handed male or a right-handed female without a ladies maid!) you can do the opposite. It’s up to you. If you’re not sure, try your coat on and see what’s most comfortable.

It is whichever piece that closes on top where you will need to do your Button Loops or button elastics. Take note of which side you decide now before proceeding to the next step.

For the coat to be able to fasten closed, you can either do Button Loops out of your contrast fabric in this step, or you can use an elastic to do more unobtrusive fastenings in the next step. 

If doing optional Button Loops, follow the below steps. If not, skip to step 6 for the other button elastic option.

For each Button Loop, we are going to fold and press as if we were making double fold bias tape (don’t worry if you don’t know what that is, just follow these instructions). Fold Button Loop in half wrong side to wrong side down its length. Press well.

Tuck each long raw edge into the middle of the fold so that the long raw edges are all hidden. Press.

Fold again down the middle line and press.

Top stitch down the length of the Button Loop close to both edges (so you’ve got 2 rows of top stitching, one next to each folded edge). Backstitch at both ends.

TIP – If you find the fabric slipping or are finding it difficult to get traction at the beginning of the seam on this thin and heavier strip of fabric, switch your presser foot. A walking foot is ideal; however, have a look at the other suggestions in the Sewing Tips if you don’t have one. This also applies if you find your thread bunching up under the beginning of the seam and making a knot underneath the fabric.

Additionally, to get even better traction, I like to position the strip directly on top of one feed dog and reposition the needle as needed. Also, at the beginning of the seam, hold gently but firmly the bobbin and needle threads towards the back.

Lay your coat on a flat surface and mark from the pattern where the buttons go for your size on the side of the coat you want to be on top (see note just before this section to decide this).

TIP – As per the printing instructions, there are a lot of markings on the Front pattern piece. If you have difficulty finding the button markings for your size, print this pattern piece using layers so you can see your size only.

There are four button markings and four Button Loops. Place your Button Loops on your coat Front so that they are horizontal, starting at the button marking, and pointing towards the coat center Front. Make sure the raw edge of the Button Loop is centered vertically so that it is directly on the button marking. And that the bottom of the Button Loop is just above the button marking. Pin that end of the Button Loop in place.

Curve the other raw edge of the Button Loop back towards the button marking and pin the other end of the Button Loop directly below the first end you pinned in the previous step. You should now have your Button Loops pinned in place by the raw ends, directly over the button marking. Make sure they aren’t twisted.

Using a ⅛ seam allowance, stitch each Button Loop to the coat Front with a vertical stitch that catches each Button Loop raw end.

Stitch back and forwards over the Button Loop carefully several times. This will give it strength to hold it in place.

TIP – If you find that your fabric is fraying, sew a bar tack ⅛ from the raw edge. A bar tack is very short and dense zigzag stitches used to reinforce stressed seams on a garment. Start by using a regular straight stitch over both ends of the loops. Backstitch back to your starting point. Change your machine setting to a narrow and very dense zigzag stitch (2mm-3mm wide, 0.3-0.5mm long). Sew from your starting point to the end point.

If you are doing button elastic (instead of the Button Loops in the previous step), follow the steps in this section. Otherwise, skip to step 7.

NOTE – If you are doing the curved front opening for the coat, only do the top 2 button elastics. If you are doing the straight front opening for the coat, do all 4 button elastics.

Cut your elastic into 4 strips that measure 3 inches long (only 2 if you are doing the curved front). Fold each strip of elastic in half. Pin each strip of elastic to the coat front on the button elastic markings (these are the 4 small, notch-style markings that are on the straight edge of the Front pattern piece and 2 on the curved front pattern piece). The raw edges of the button elastic should match with the raw edge of the coat. The folded edge of the button elastic should be pointing horizontally across the coat front, towards the Sleeve.

Baste the button elastics in place by stitching back and forwards several times. This will give them strength.

NOTE – Make sure you change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

TIP – If you find your elastic is rolling or moving as you try to stitch it, tack it in place with a drop of sewing glue or some tape until it is stitched securely. Using a walking foot if you have one can also help.

Transfer the button markings onto both the left and right sides of the coat Fronts.

Stitch all eight buttons on the Front. 

NOTE – If you have done the button elastics, the buttons on the side of the coat that closes on top are purely decorative and are optional. If you have done the Button Loops, the buttons on the side of the coat that closes on top are also purely decorative; however, they also serve the purpose of hiding the raw edges of the Button Loops.

TIP – If you have done the Button Loops, carefully trim any of the raw edges of the Button Loops that the buttons don’t hide.

TIP – When sewing flat buttons on a coat I like to use three threads of embroidery floss. 

Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment but instead leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread. 

To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button. 

Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.  

Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side of the fabric at the base of the shank. 

NOTE – It is not necessary to build a shank on the decorative buttons side as the buttons won’t be used.

Pin one hood side to the Hood center with the right sides of the fabrics together. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance.

NOTE – The Hood Center piece is slightly shorter than the sides and you will have to stretch it a bit to meet the Hood curve.  Start by pinning the ends and middle point and distribute the extra ease on the Hood Center using lots of pins. Stitch with the shorter side on top. If you find it impossible to stretch the Hood Center enough, use the same method demonstrated in step 4 when we eased the Sleeve into the armhole.

Repeat for the other side of the Hood.

Clip the curves by making little snips about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Make these snips about ½ inch (1.3cm) apart. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out. Press the seams open. 

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use midway through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching. 

TIP – Use a tailor’s ham or roll to press the curve. If you don’t have one, you can roll a towel and give it the shape you need to fit the curve of the Hood and press.

With the right side of the fabrics together pin and stitch the Hood to the neckline.

NOTE – The neckline of the coat is once again a slightly different length than the Hood and you will have to stretch it a bit to have it fit. This gives it it’s shape when finished. If necessary, ease stitch the Hood to the neckline using the technique explained in step 4 when we eased the Sleeve into the armhole.   

TIP – If you find the layers are slipping, switch your presser foot. A walking foot is ideal, however have a look at the other suggestions on page 8 if you don’t have one.

Clip the curve by making little snips about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Make these snips about ½ inch (1.3cm) apart. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out.

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

Press the seam allowance open.

Note – You will notice many of these steps are similar to constructing the coat, however the pattern pieces are slightly different shapes. This is where the facing will attach in the next step so eventually the shape of the lining will match the shape of the coat.

Stitch the Front Lining to the Back Lining at the shoulders right side to right side using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Baste the Sleeve Lining as described in step 4.1.

Pin and ease the Sleeve Lining to distribute the fullness into the armholes then stitch as described in steps 4.2 to 4.6.

Pin and stitch the underarm and side seam all in one, going from the cuff down to the hem using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.

TIP – Make sure the armhole seams are aligned together neatly before stitching.

Pin and stitch the Hood Center Lining to the Hood Lining side pieces with the right sides of the fabrics together, then pin and stitch to the coat Lining as described in step 8.

It’s important to get the right pieces of fabric matched up together in this section. It can be a little tricky as the pieces look quite similar. Go slowly and check the shape of your pieces matches the photos.

To help make this step easier, before doing any pinning or stitching, use tailors chalk to name each of your pattern pieces, along with any notches, pattern markings & notes. Also mark which is left and which is right where you have mirror image pieces. 

With the right sides of the fabrics together pin one Front Facing to the Back Facing. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Repeat with the other Front Facing. Press both seams open.

With the right sides of the fabrics together, pin the Hood Facings at the top. Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Align the other ends of the Hood Facings with the top of the Front Facings with the right sides of the fabrics together. Pin.

Before stitching, check you have pinned the correct edge of the Hood Facing to the Front Facing. In the first photo on the left, it is the edge marked with green that you need to attach to the Front Facing. 

The other short straight edge of the Hood Facing (to the right of the green line in the photo) should line up with the outside edge of the Front Facing. The curved edge (to the left of the green line) should line up with the inside edge of the Hood Facing.

Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Press both seams open. Your Facing will now be shaped like a large loop.

Press the seam open. 

NOTE – there is a small notch (a little straight line) on each of the Hood Facing and Front Facing pattern pieces. Make sure these match up when you pin the Facings together.

With the right sides of the fabrics together, pin the Facing to the Lining. 

To do this, align the raw edges of the Lining with the inside (shorter) raw edge of the Facing, right sides together. 

Start by matching the coat side and neckline seams. Then match the straight edges. Then gently ease/stretch the fabric around the corners. 

Stitch using a ¼ seam allowance. Press the seam allowance away from the Facing, towards the Lining.

TIP- Go slowly around the curved areas and lift your presser foot as needed to reposition the fabric.

Clip the curves by making little snips about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Make these snips about ½ inch (1.3cm) apart. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out.

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use midway through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

Press the seam all around towards the Lining.

Pin the Button Loops/elastic out of the way onto the coat.

Pin the coat and Lining together matching the raw edges of the Facing all the way around the coat with the right side of the fabrics together.  Ensure all seams are aligned together. Ignore arms for now.

Stitch all the way around the edge joining the two together and using a ¼ seam allowance. Leave a 3-5 inches wide gap at the centre back hem to turn it the right way out later.

TIP- To get a nice, sharp corners, go slowly and put the needle down when you get ¼ inch from the edge. Then lift your presser foot and rotate the fabric before putting your presser foot down again.

Clip the curves by making little snips about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Make these snips about ½ inch (1.3cm) apart. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out.

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use midway through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

Fold the main fabric Sleeves raw ends about 1 inch towards the wrong side of the fabric.

Reach the left Sleeve around to the left Lining. Slip the Lining over the Sleeve end where you folded it. Pin. The Sleeve end only should be right side to right side with the Lining over the Sleeve. It will look very odd, but this is normal! 

Line up the Sleeve seams & pin together.

Stitch all around the Sleeve using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat with the other Sleeve.

Turn right side out. The Sleeves should now fit neatly inside each other. Remove the pins holding the Button Loops/elastics in place. Press the coat carefully, making sure to tuck the raw edges where you turned the coat up inside the hem.

If you have done the Button Loops, pin these near the coat edge so they are horizontal and lined up neatly. If you didn’t do these, skip to step 12.2.

NOTE – If you have made your Button Loops out of a heavier fabric such as wool, you may find they sag. If they do, top stitch them down along the same lines as your previous stitching to hold them in place.

Pin the gap you used to turn the coat through in step 11.7 closed. Top stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance all the way around the coat edge, catching the Button Loops if you did these.

Top stitch both Sleeve hems using a ⅛ seam allowance.

Stitch one button as marked on the pattern piece to each Sleeve tab if you have done these.

If you did the Button Loops, you may find your loops slightly too loose (especially if you did the curved hem). To keep these neatly together, do a small stitch approximately 1 inch from the end of the Button Loop to hold them together. If you want this to be invisible, do this by hand with needle and thread from the back side of the Button Loop. If you don’t mind, this can be done by machine