Children’s Bandeau Top

Bandeau

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Bandeau is an ideal piece for Spring and Summer. It is lined and elasticated along the top and bottom edges. Add one or two optional flounces and an optional tie to make this piece really unique. An easy to wear piece, the bandeau makes a great key staple in your wardrobe. Pair it with the Hayley High Low Skirt or Vintage Shorts for the perfect outfit.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

The Bandeau has generous ease across the bust line to fit at the top bust and sit under bust, with a narrower back. The OPTIONAL Tie will help to make the bodice feel more secure.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – When picking your size choose your size using the chest measurement.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as your muslin this top:
  • Use an inexpensive woven or knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the bodice.
  • Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Create the elastic channels and insert the elastic.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

You can use any mid to light-weight woven or a knit fabric for this Top. You can use the same fabric for your main and lining.

NOTE – If you are using a woven fabric or knit fabric with a 4 way stretch, and cut perpendicular to the grainline, the fabric requirements will change.

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

NOTE – If you are using one fabric for the Bodice, Lining and OPTIONAL Flounces you will need a lot less fabric.

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

 You will also need:

• ½ inch wide Elastic – approximately 0.8 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• OPTIONAL Bias Binding for Flounce – double fold bias tape that is ⅜ inch wide when finished. You can buy/make ¾ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. Approximately 2.4 yards for a is sufficient for a double flounce for all sizes.
  • NOTE – If using knit fabric, you will need 4.2 yards of 1 ½ inch wide strips of fabric. It does not need to be cut on the bias.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, pins/clips, tailors chalk/fabric pen, safety pin, bodkin or turning loop, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts (in INCHES) – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:

Cutting Checklist:

• Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
• OPTIONAL Flounce:
  • Top Double Flounce – Fabric cut 1 on fold
  • Bottom Single Flounce – Fabric cut 1 on fold
  • NOTE – If you would like a single Flounce, cut 1x Flounce using the Bottom Single cut line. If you would like a double Flounce you will need to cut 1x Flounce using the Top Double cut line PLUS 1x Flounce using the Bottom Single cut line.
• OPTIONAL Tie – Fabric cut 2 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch

 Preparation –

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
2. BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create double bias binding.

Sewing –

1. OPTIONAL FLOUNCE(S) – Bind the outer edges of each Flounce. If sewing two Flounces, baste them together along the inner edge.
2. OPTIONAL TIE – With right sides together, fold Tie in half lengthwise and pin long side and one short side. Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Trim corners, turn right side out and press. Repeat for second Tie. Baste both Ties to center of Flounce/Bodice Lining, right sides together, matching raw edges.
3. BODICE – FLOUNCE OPTION: Place the Flounce onto the Bodice Lining, right sides together, matching the ends of the Flounce to the pattern markings. ALL OPTIONS: Place the Main Bodice onto the Bodice Lining, right sides together. Pin along top edge. Stitch. Match bottom edge and stitch. Trim corners and clip into curves. Turn and press.
4. ELASTIC CASINGS – Take one open end and fold inside by ½ inch. Press. Mark ½ inch from the folded edge. Stitch top casing using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Thread elastic through. Overlap ends by ½ inch. Stitch. Repeat for bottom casing.
5. CENTER BACK – Slide the unfinished edge inside the folded edge, matching the raw edge to the stitch line. Topstitch. Maneuver elastic evenly.

Congratulations, your Bandeau is done. Enjoy!

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpbandeau.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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