Children's Daniella Skirt

The Daniella Skirt

Difficulty Level = Beginner

This is a very simple gathered skirt. The skirt is gathered to the waistband, then the waistband is gathered with elastic. 

The pattern pieces are all rectangles. You can either print the pattern pieces provided, or cut using the measurement charts in the cutting section.

The skirt is knee length and super full. It’s really easy to customize – simply cut the skirt longer or shorter, add any trim you like, add another layer or even reduce the width to make it less full. It’s up to you and your imagination!

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Newborn – 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – If your child falls into different sizes for waist and height, use the skirt length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for waist measurements. Blend the two patterns together.
• Muslin – I recommend sewing a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
  • Use a woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Baste all the pieces together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy. 
  • If your waistband is too loose, shorten your elastic.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ½ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

• Light to medium weight woven fabric for the Skirt (e.g. cotton, linen, taffeta, crepe de chine, rayon). The Skirt is very full so heavier fabrics will not work as they will pull, and the Waistband will not sit correctly.
• If you want to make your Waistband a different material than your Skirt you will need ⅛ of a yard of material for the Waistband. 
• If you want to make the full width (gives a very full Skirt), you will need your fabric to be at least 44 inches wide for sizes 0–6 years and at least 47 inches wide for sizes 7-12 years. See the Cutting Charts for the exact width for your size.

NOTE – The pattern also works with stretch fabrics for those who are comfortable sewing with knits and jerseys. If you use a stretch fabric, make sure to follow the serger/overlocker instructions for ease of sewing. It looks particularly cute with a structured knit such as a Scuba Knit!

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• 1 ½ inch wide elastic. I recommend you use a medium to heavy weight elastic (e.g. one that doesn’t easily fold in half lengthwise). If you use a lighter weight elastic your Skirt will still work, however you’ll find the Waistband will curl and won’t sit flat.
  • 0 – 2 years = ½ yard
  • 2 – 12 years = 1 yard
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, scissors, tape measure or ruler, optional ruffler foot, and a safety pin to thread the elastic into the Waistband. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

NOTE – These are the full measurements. If you want to cut on the fold of the fabric, make sure to divide the measurements in half.NOTE – If your fabric is not wide enough to cut the full width of the Skirt pieces across it, you can either divide it up into smaller widths and stitch them together (remember to add a seam allowance), or you can make it not as wide. This pattern is for a very, very full Skirt so taking a little off will still give a great Skirt, just less twirl-tastic.

Skirt – Cut 2 using either the pattern pieces at the back, or the measurement chart above. 

• Less full Skirt option – This pattern is for a very full Skirt. If you want to do a Skirt that won’t twirl as much, you can reduce the width by a maximum of half. This will still be a nice Skirt but won’t use as much fabric. Do not reduce the Waistband measurement.
• Shorter Skirt option – This pattern will give a Skirt that comes to just below the knee for most children. Perfect for back-to-school outfits! If you want a Skirt though that comes to just above the knee, you will need to take the following off the height:
  • Sizes 0 – 12 months – take off 1 inch
  • Sizes 12 – 24 months – take off 1 ½ inches
  • Sizes 2 – 6 years – take off approximately 2 inches
  • Sizes 7 – 12 years – take off approximately 3 inches
• Longer Skirt option – You could also cut the Skirt longer if you wished! Simply measure your child from their waist to where you would like it to fall. Remember to add 1 inch for the hem, and ½ inch for seam allowance at the waist.

Waistband – Cut 1 using either the pattern pieces at the back, or the measurement chart above.

Elastic – If you have the child on hand, cut the elastic to fit their waist. Remember to add 1 inch to the measurement so you have enough to cross it over. If you don’t have the child to hand, cut the elastic using the above guide.  

NOTE – If you are using a medium or heavy weight woven, or a stretch fabric, you will need to make the elastic slightly tighter than normal to make sure the Skirt doesn’t sag. I would recommend taking 1 to 1 ½ inches off your desired elastic measurement if this is the case.

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

You should now have two Skirt pieces, one waistband piece and one length of elastic.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics 

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. 

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem 1 inch 

Sewing –

1. SIDE SEAMS – Stitch the side seams of the Skirt using either a French seam, or stitch and serge/overlock to finish.
2. WAISTBAND – With right sides together, stitch the Waistband side seam so it is now a circle.
3. ATTACHING THE WAISTBAND – With right sides together, gather the Skirt and stitch to the Waistband. 
4. FINISHING THE WAISTBAND – Fold the top edge of the Waistband under ¼ inch and press. Fold the top of the Waistband down towards the Skirt. Pin the Waistband to the Skirt along the seamline. Stitch along the seam between the Skirt and the Waistband, leaving a 1-inch gap to insert elastic.
5. ELASTIC  – Thread the elastic into the Waistband and stitch ends together. Make sure elastic is fully inside then stitch gap closed.
6. HEM  – Fold the hem under ½ inch twice (1-inch total) and stitch close to the edge.
7. OPTIONAL DECORATION – Stitch ric rac or ribbon around hemline of the Skirt to decorate (either on the hem or further up).

Congratulations, your Daniella Skirt is done. Enjoy!

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpdaniellaskirt.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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