Children's Della Drape

Della Drape

Difficulty Level = Beginner

The Della Drape consists of two layers: an outer top and an inner tank. The outer top is loose fitting, has gathered shoulders and is very loosely draped at the back. The fitted inner top is joined to the outer at the neckline and hem. Choose between the shirt length outer and inner tank, or a mini dress length outer with either the shirt or mini dress length inner tank. The same length top or dress can be finished with an elasticated hem, which gathers the hem in very slightly. The optional back ties or optional keyhole insert add a lovely detail to the back. The keyhole insert option of the outer top is joined to the inner tank at the neckline. If you are adding the back tie option, the inner and outer top are not joined at the neck, leaving the keyhole of the outer top with hidden raw edges.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

This is a loose fitting outer top with a fitted inner tank. The outer has loads of fabric to create the drape. The garment is constructed as two layered pieces, each with the right sides of the fabric outermost and seams facing the body and NOT as a lined garment.

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – 
  • Outer top: The finished garment chest measurement is roughly 1.5x your chest measurement. This is correct. This is what gives the garment its drape. Choose your size using the hip measurements. It is unlikely you will need to grade the outer top due to the shape and fit.
  • Inner tank: Choose your size from the chest measurements. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes, then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your chest, grading out or in, to your waist and hips.
• Inner tank fit – The tank is designed to have negative ease. This means it is smaller than the body and the fabric will stretch as you are wearing it. If you fall towards the lower end of your size range, you may find you need to take the fabric in slightly to have sufficient negative ease for comfort. We recommend trying a muslin (see below) to make sure the fit is exactly how you are wanting.
• Height adjustments – It is important to measure, measure, measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished measurements. To ensure they get the very best fit, please use the size they fall into on our size chart, rather than what they wear in ready to wear clothing. You may need to grade between sizes for height and overall width of your model. For example, a child that measures a size 5-6 width and a 7-8 length. You’ll print both sizes, cut the 5-6 size, however you will need to LENGTHEN the pattern to the 7-8 length so the pattern will be long enough. If your child is nearer the bottom measurement for height you will need to remove length from the Inner tank and Outer top halfway through the armscye and at the hem.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this pattern:
• • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. 
  • Cut out the Inner and Outer Front and Back pieces and baste it together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Outer Top fabric:

• Fabric needs to be a 4-way stretch / knit fabric with a stretch of 50% or more. You will be able to get it on & off easily and be comfortable. 
• Best results will be achieved with a fabric with drape. The more drape, the more flowing & relaxed your top will look. For example, a cotton lycra 5% will fit, but it won’t drape and flow under the arms and the back where the excess fabric sits, which will create more of a boxy shape. A great choice is light weight knit such as rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey as they will drape and flow in a much more relaxed way. The less drape, like French terry, hacci sweater knit, interlock, ponte, the more structured your top will look. Do not use a woven fabric.
• To check the stretch of your fabric, hold a piece of your fabric up to a ruler, pull it along the stretch and see if it stretches at least 1.5 times its length.

Inner Tank fabric:

• Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric.
• It can be any weight; however, best results & fit will be achieved with a light to medium weight fabric. Great examples are jersey, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey and light sweater knits. Do not use a woven fabric.

OPTIONAL Keyhole Insert fabric:

• You can use the same fabric as your Inner or Outer fabric or use a lace or power mesh.

Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Shoulder elastic:
  • OPTIONAL Clear elastic – approximately half a yard will be sufficient for all sizes
  • OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide Elastic – approximately half a yard will be sufficient for all sizes
• OPTIONAL ⅜ inch wide Elastic hem – approximately 0.7 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, optional loop turner, and optional serger/overlocker.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below: 

Cutting Checklist: 

• Outer Top Front – cut 1 on fold
• Outer Top Back – cut 1 on fold
• Inner Tank Front – cut 1 on fold
• Inner Tank Back – cut 1 on fold
• Inner Tank Armhole Binding – cut 2
• OPTIONAL Keyhole Insert – cut 2
• OPTIONAL Back Ties:
  • Inner Tank Keyhole Binding – cut 1
  • Back Ties – cut 2

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to the fabric.

Sewing –

1. INNER TANK – Stitch Inner Tank Front and Back, right sides together, at the shoulder. Repeat. Stitch Inner Tank Front and Back at the side seam, right sides together. Repeat. Fold Inner Tank Armhole Binding in half width ways, right sides together. Stitch. Fold in half and mark quarter points. Mark quarter points on armscye. Place over wrong side of armscye, matching quarter points. Stitch. Flip Inner Tank Binding over to right side and stitch. Repeat.
2. OUTER TOP – GATHERING OPTION: Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along one shoulder edge of Outer Top Front, starting at the neckline. Gather to half the width. Repeat for other side. Repeat on Outer Top Back. Stitch Outer Top Front and Outer Top Back, right sides together, matching the gathered shoulders. Stitch clear elastic to seam. Skip to step 3. ELASTIC GATHER OPTION: Stitch Outer Top Front and Outer Top Back, right sides together, at shoulder seam. Cut elastic half the length of the shoulder seam. Match ends and center. Stitch. Repeat.
3. OPTIONAL KEYHOLE INSERT – Stitch two Keyhole Insert pieces, right sides together, along the straight edge. Turn and press. Place Inner Tank inside the Outer Top, wrong side of Inner matching right side of Outer. Match the neckline and pin. Stitch. Stitch Keyhole Insert in between the Inner and Outer Tops. Skip to step 5.
4. OPTIONAL BACK TIES – Fold Inner Tank Binding in half, wrong sides together, matching long raw edges. Mark the center of Inner Tank Binding and keyhole opening. Stitch Inner Tank Binding onto wrong side of Inner Tank, matching centers and raw edges. Press Inner Tank Binding up.  Turn Inner Tank right sides out. Flip Inner Tank Binding over to right side and stitch. Place Inner Tank inside Outer Top, with wrong side of Inner matching right side of Outer. Match the neckline and pin. Stitch. Fold Back Tie in half, right sides together, matching long raw edges. Stitch the long raw edge and one short edge. Turn and press. Place Back Tie onto right side of Inner Tank Binding, at the seam where the Inner and Outer were stitched together, matching the raw edge of the Back Tie to the binding stitched seam. Stitch. Repeat for the other Back Tie.
5. OUTER TOP SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Outer Front and Back at side seams, right sides together. Press seam back.
6. OPTIONAL ELASTIC HEM – Stitch the hems of Inner Tank and Outer Top right sides together, matching side seams. Slide elastic through the loop of Inner Tank and Outer Top, overlapping ends by ½ inch. Stitch. Mark and match quarter points of elastic and hem seam. Stitch. Pull the garment right sides out through the armhole.
7. OPTIONAL REGULAR HEM – Fold raw edge of Inner Tank hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat for Outer Top hem.
8. OUTER TOP ARMHOLE HEM – Fold raw edge of Outer Top armhole hem ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch. Repeat.

Congratulations, your Della Drape is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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