Children’s Floaty Florence Top

Floaty Florence

Difficulty level = Beginner

A simple yet stunning floaty top sewing pattern that is incredibly versatile with two neckline options, two different lengths and an optional belt. It is also maternity friendly and comfortable to nurse in.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Newborn – 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

Fitting Notes:

This is designed to be a very loose fitting top. The measurements in the chart above are the width of the top, not the circumference. The circumference around the chest will be approximately twice the chest measurement. Part of this will drape down the arm and form a sleeve. 

• Sizing – The top is designed to fit the largest of the children in the size bracket which means the neck opening has been designed to fit an average sized child’s head who is near the top of their size bracket. On smaller children in their size range (or children with a smaller frame), you may find this too wide.
• To save fabric and ensure you get a good fit, cut out the front facing first and check this (a) easily goes over your child’s head and (b) isn’t too wide that it slips off the child’s shoulders. Make sure to take into account the seam allowance (¼ inch around the inside of the neck). 
• To lengthen or shorten the pattern (either for height or as a personal-preference adjustment), cut the pattern horizontally at the lengthen/shorten lines. 
  • To shorten the pattern, cross the pattern pieces over at the lengthen/shorten lines by however many inches you want to adjust the pattern by and tape back together. Remember that if you cross over by 1 inch, that is actually 1 inch off each piece (2 inches in total), so only cross over the pattern pieces by ½ the total length you want to remove.
  • If you are shortening the pattern because you are short, you will also need to shorten the ‘sleeves’ or they will be too long. To do this, either remove some width from the pattern, or trim the sleeves & side seams once you’ve assembled the neck facing and shoulders.
• Height adjustment – To lengthen or shorten the pattern (either for height or as a bust adjustment), cut the pattern horizontally at the lengthen/shorten lines. 
  • To shorten the pattern, cross the pattern pieces over at the lengthen/shorten lines by however many inches you want to adjust the pattern by and tape back together. Remember that if you cross over by 1 inch, that’s actually 1 inch off each piece (2 inches in total), so only cross over the pattern pieces by ½ the total length you want to remove. 
  • If you are shortening the pattern because you are short, you will also need to shorten the ‘sleeves’ or they will be too long. To do this, either remove some width from the pattern, or trim the sleeves & side seams once you’ve assembled the neck facing and shoulders.
  • To lengthen the pattern, place a blank piece of paper under the cut. Move the two pattern pieces away from each other to create a gap that’s whatever length you want to add to the pattern. Make sure the pattern pieces stay parallel with each other so that you’re adding the same length all the way across. Tape it all together and use as normal. 
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. I would recommend the following as you muslin this top:
  • Use an inexpensive woven/knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • To save fabric and ensure you get a good fit, cut out the front facing first and check this (a) easily goes over your head and (b) isn’t too wide that it slips off your shoulders. Make sure to take into account the seam allowance (¼ inch around the inside of the neck). 
  • Cut out the Front and Back. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Any floaty fabric, or fabric with drape! Light weight wovens such as chiffon, georgette or viscose work well, as do light weight stretch fabrics such as jersey. Our testers had great results as well with minky, light weight cotton lycra, rayon challis, poly spandex, athletic mesh, terry, knit interlock and stretch chiffon. 

If you are using a very floaty or tricky-to-manipulate fabric for your top, use a 100% cotton fabric for the facing rather than the same fabric as your top to give the neck opening more stability. You will only need a small amount of this.

If you choose to use a fabric that does not drape as well (such as flannel, cotton, some satins etc.), the pattern will give a much more ‘boxy’ look, rather than a luxurious draped look. It is personal preference but do be aware the looks are quite different.

This pattern also works really well in towelling as a beach towel throw to put on when wet. If doing this, do not interface the facings.

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.

** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Light-weight iron on interfacing for the neck facings – ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes. You could use scraps if you have them available.
• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

This pattern works really well with flowy and thin fabrics! Don’t be scared to use them even if they might seem challenging. Something that can help is to starch your fabric to give it more body before you cut out. That way you’ll be able to handle, cut and sew the fabric with ease. There are a number of commercial fabric stabilizers and starches which give a papery quality to your fabric. They make chiffon as easy to sew as quilting cotton! If you don’t have starch or fabric stabilizer available, try searching online for a traditional home recipe such as corn starch in water. 

Before starting… If you have used a thin, flowy fabric, make sure to change to a fresh and sharp needle! Test your stitches on a scrap and remove a few stitches. If it leaves holes, your needle is too big or not sharp enough. Downsize your needle to a finer one or use a microtex needle and you should be fine.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Throughout the pattern you will see options where you can use a serger or overlocker instead of a regular sewing machine. If you are going to do this and you are using a sheer or fine fabric, it is recommended you stitch the seam first with a regular sewing machine and then serge the edge. The reason being is sheer fabrics have less structure for the serged edge to hold the seam together. So, under any kind of stress (e.g. reaching for something while wearing the top and the seam pulling) a sheer fabric can end up with a hole on the seam. Stitching then serging helps avoid this.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ¼ inch

Preparation – 

1. INTERFACING – Iron your front and back interfacing onto your spare fabric. Cut around your interfacing so that you now have a front facing and a back facing.
2. STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the neckline on the front, back, front facing and back facing.

Sewing –

1. FACING – Either serge or French seam the front and back facings at the shoulder seam. Either serge or turn under ¼ inch twice and top stitch the outer raw edge of the facing. Alternatively, you can turn the edges under ⅛ inch twice and top stitch, so it is more like a rolled hem.
2. SHOULDERS – Either serge or French seam the top front and top back together at the shoulders.
3. NECK – With right sides together, stitch the facing to the top around the neck. Trim seam allowance in half. Turn and topstitch (or alternatively understitch if you don’t want the stitching showing). Stitch in the ditch or hand tack the facing shoulder seam to the top shoulder seam.
4. SIDE SEAMS (SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION) – Open garment out and serge down the full side seam on both sides. Fold right sides together. Stitch below the sleeve opening marking. Press seam open and continue pressing seam open around sleeve opening. Top stitch sleeve opening.
5. SIDE SEAMS (NON-SERGER OPTION) – Fold top right side to right side. Stitch together below sleeve opening marking. Press seam open and continue pressing seam open around sleeve opening. Fold seam allowance in half to hide raw edges. Top stitch close to folded edge.
6. HEM – Either serge, turn under and top stitch. Or turn under twice and top stitch.
7. OPTIONAL BELT: BUTTONHOLES – Check fit, stitch buttonholes either as marked, or where preferred on both the front and back of the garment.
8. OPTIONAL BELT – If you cut the belt out in 2 sections, stitch the belt sections together. Fold belt in half lengthwise. Stitch down the long side, trim, turn and press. Turn raw edges under twice, press and topstitch.

Congratulations, your Floaty Florence is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpfloatyflorence.

Thank you for using a Rebeca Page pattern.

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