Children’s Keeley Cardigan

Keeley Cardigan

Difficulty Level = Beginner 

The Keeley Cardigan is just what you need to add comfort to your wardrobe, no matter the occasion or season. Choose between the Top length which sits at the hip, or the calf length Midi with optional side vents. Add long sleeves for the colder seasons or forearm sleeve length for those warmer days. With optional pockets, you can truly customize the Keeley to create the perfect button up cardigan.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Newborn – 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. 
• Picking your size – Choose your size from the size chart measurements. If your chest and waist measurements are in different sizes, pick your size by your chest measurement. That way the armhole, chest and neckline will sit correctly. Print your pattern with both your chest size and waist size visible and grade between sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist and then to the size for your hip measurement. 
• Adjusting height – It is important to measure, measure, measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished measurements. To ensure they get the very best fit, please use the size they fall into on our size chart, rather than what they wear in ready to wear clothing. You may need to grade between sizes for height and overall width of your model. For example, a child that measures a size 5 – 6 width and a 7 – 8 length. You’ll cut print both sizes, cut the 5 – 6 size, however you’ll make sure to LENGTHEN the pattern to the 7 – 8 length so the pattern will be long enough. If your child is nearer the bottom measurement for height you will need to remove length from the bodice and sleeves hem.
• Sleeve length – Compare the finished measurements of the sleeve to your model’s measurements. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, add/remove length halfway down the sleeve.
• Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. After you’ve made your muslin, if you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller refer to our adjustment tutorial here.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this cardigan:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the Front, Back and one Sleeve. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.  

• The fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight, however best results and fit will be achieved with a medium weight 2-way stretch fabric. Great examples are sweater knits, jersey, stretch fleece, and stretch French terry. Warmer and heavier fabrics such as sweater knits, hacci knits, stretch wool and interlock will give a snugger, cozier look.
• The other property to consider is how open the weave is. A tighter weave such as jersey will give a more solid look than a more open weave such as a stretch wool or some sweater knits which can look more like a knitted garment.
• Your fabric will need to have at least 30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.

Fabric Estimates 60 inches / 150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Buttons: Approximately ¾ inch / 20mm wide. 2-12yrs: x5 for Top Length, x7 for Midi Length and 12-24mos: x4 for Top Length and x5 for Midi Length. You can also use a smaller button, snaps or another closure device, if you prefer.  
  • TIP – If you don’t have somewhere local, you may find it most cost effective to search on Amazon or eBay for a good bulk button deal. 
• OPTIONAL Clear elastic – 2 yards will be enough for all sizes.
• Stretch Woven Interfacing – light to medium weight, approximately 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes. If you are adding snaps, you may wish to use firmer stretch interfacing.
• Thread to match.

Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, twin needle, tape measure, optional Wonder tape and optional serger/overlocker.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

• Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Back – Cut 1 on Fold
• Sleeves – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Neckband – Cut 2 
  • NOTE – If you are adding optional interfacing, you may change the grainline to run down the pattern piece to suit your fabric. 
• OPTIONAL Pockets – Cut 2

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to the fabric.
2. INTERFACING – Use manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the Neckband pieces.

Sewing –

1. OPTIONAL POCKETS – Press bottom edge ⅜ inch to wrong side and press. Repeat on both sides. Fold the top edge ½ inch to wrong side and press. Unfold the top and fold it to the right side. Stitch each side on the folded edge. Turn right side out. Topstitch top edge. Stitch pocket onto Front at pattern markings. Repeat with second pocket.
2. SHOULDERS – Stitch Front and Back right sides together at shoulder. Repeat on other side.
3. SLEEVES – Create ½ inch memory hem. Stitch sleeve to shoulder, right sides together. Press. Repeat with second sleeve.
4. SIDE SEAMS – Create ½ inch memory hem. Pin the Front and Back right sides together from the sleeve to the hem/side vent notch, stitch. 
5. OPTIONAL SIDE VENT – Stitch side vent seam allowance. Stitch bar tack across the top of the vent. Repeat for the other side vent.
6. NECKBAND – Place the Neckband right sides together, pin, stitch short ends, press. Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, press. Find the center of the Neckband and Back, match and pin. Match the end of the Neckband to the bottom edge of the Cardigan, right sides together, pin. Repeat on the opposite front edge. Pin entire Neckband to the Cardigan, stitch, and press.
7. HEMMING – TOP AND MIDI LENGTH WITHOUT SIDE VENT: Refold memory hem, pin and topstitch. MIDI LENGTH WITH SIDE VENT:  Refold memory hem on Front, pin and topstitch. Repeat for other Front and on Back. Refold Sleeve memory hem and topstitch. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
8. FASTENINGS – Stitch buttonholes and buttons as marked or add snaps to markings.

Congratulations, your Keeley Cardigan is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpkeeleycardigan.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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