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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Children’s Pancake Tutu and Ballet Leotard
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
A beautiful handmade Children’s Pancake Tutu and Ballet Leotard are essentials for the tiny dancer in your life. Our Children’s Pancake Tutu and Ballet Leotard sewing pattern allow you to make your dancer a custom leotard packed with loads of options. Make them a leotard with a scoop back and wide straps, or a straight back with skinny straps. You can also make the optional pancake tutu made of tiers of netting and gathered into the waist of the leotard. Whatever option you make, they’re going to love your handmade contribution to their favorite activity.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 12mo-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your size – Choose your size from the age/height in the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist.
- Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length, neckline and armscye for that height size bracket, keeping the width to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra dance fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams. You can adjust the length of your strap if needed.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Main – The leotard has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are cotton lycra, nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
- Lining – These are typically similar to dance lycra fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular dance fabric instead of a dance lining as this offers more support.
- ⅜ inch wide Elastic:
- Leg opening – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Neck and armscye – 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Straight back OPTION – ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Leotard: Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Leotard: Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Straight Back OPTION: Strap – Fabric cut 2
- Leotard: Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Leotard: Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Leotard: Back Bottoms– Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Leotard: Front Bottoms – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Straight Back OPTION: Strap – Fabric cut 2
- NOTE – If you are sewing the scoop back OPTION, use the built in strap cut lines on the Front and Back.
- Tutu: Tiers –
- Back Frill – Netting cut 1 on fold
- Tier 1 – Netting cut 4 on fold
- Tier 2 – Netting cut 4 on fold
- Tier 3 – Netting cut 4 on fold
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewPancake Tutu & Ballet Leotard
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew your little one a custom ballet leotard with either a scoop back and built up straps or a straight back with separate straps. The leg openings, neckline and armscyes all have elastic for support. The optional tutu is made up of tiers of netting to create the pancake shape and is gathered into the waist of the leotard.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Straight back OPTION:
Chest
Hips
Center front length
Center back length
Leg opening
Back edge
Strap length
12 – 18 mos
16.0
16.2
10.1
6.7
9.6
7.3
6.6
18 – 24 mos
17.0
17.2
11.5
8.0
10.0
7.6
7.0
2 – 3 yrs
18.5
18.6
12.6
9.0
10.5
8.2
7.2
3 – 4 yrs
19.5
19.7
14.1
10.6
11.0
8.7
7.3
5 – 6 yrs
21.2
21.6
17.5
13.7
12.1
9.6
7.5
7 – 8 yrs
22.7
23.2
19.7
15.7
13.0
10.5
7.6
9 – 10 yrs
23.7
25.6
20.6
16.7
14.3
11.0
8.0
11 – 12 yrs
25.5
27.5
21.7
17.7
15.5
11.7
8.2
Fitting NotesThe leotard has a higher neckline at the front and is fitted. The tutu sits in between the waist and just above the top hip. It is cut at different lengths with the longer length sitting on top. Each tier consists of two layers.
Materials and ToolsLeotard
Tutu Fabric – You will need a stiff poly netting to create the pancake tutu, with a minimum width of 78 inches / 200 cm.
NOTE – Do not wash your netting before sewing as it can change the structure of the netting. You want it to be stiff so that it holds the correct shape. You can sponge clean the netting as needed.
NOTE – If you are joining the Leotard & Tutu do not machine wash these. Wash the Leotard by hand, being careful not to submerge the netting in water. You can sponge clean the netting as needed.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Leotard (ALL OPTIONS)
Tutu Skirt
Main
Lining
Back Frill
Tier 1
Tier 2
Tier 3
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.25
1.00
2 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.25
1.00
5 – 8 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.25
1.25
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.50
1.25
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.50
1.25
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Leotard OPTION Pancake Tutu & Leotard OPTION Straight back OPTION Scoop back OPTION Straight back OPTION Scoop back OPTION 12-24 mos 2-4, 7-8 3-4, 7-8 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 17-20 2-4, 6-8, 11-14, 17-20 2-3 yrs 2-4, 7-9 3-4, 7-9 2-4, 6-9, 11-14, 17-20 2-4, 6-9, 11-14, 17-20 3-4 yrs 2-5, 7-9 3-5, 7-9 2-9, 11-15, 17-21 2-9, 11-15, 17-21 5-8 yrs 2-5, 7-9 3-5, 7-9 2-9, 11-15, 17-21 2-9, 11-15, 17-21 9-12 yrs 2-5, 7-10 3-5, 7-10 2-22 2-22 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Leotard OPTION Pancake Tutu & Leotard OPTION Straight back OPTION Scoop back OPTION Straight back OPTION Scoop back OPTION 12-24 mos 2-5, 8-9 4-5, 8-9 2-5, 7-9, 12-15, 18-21 2-5, 7-9, 12-15, 18-20 2-3 yrs 2-5, 8-10 3-5, 8-10 2-5, 7-10, 12-15, 18-20 2-5, 8-10, 12-15, 18-21 3-6 yrs 2-6, 8-10 3-6, 8-10 2-6, 7-10, 12-16, 18-22 2-6, 7-10, 12-16, 18-22 7-10 yrs 2-6, 8-11 3-6, 8-11 2-6, 7-11, 12-16, 18-22 2-6, 7-11, 12-16, 18-22 11-12 yrs 2-6, 8-11 3-6, 8-11 2-6, 7-11, 12-23 2-6, 7-11, 12-23 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
⅜ inch wide elastic
Straight back OPTION
Scoop back OPTION
Leg opening (cut 2)
Back neckline (cut 1)
Armscye (cut 2)
Front neckline (cut 1)
Armscye (cut 2)
Length
Length
Length
Length
Length
12 – 18 mos
10.2
8.0
5.5
8.2
19.5
18 – 24 mos
10.5
8.5
6.0
8.6
20.3
2 – 3 yrs
11.1
9.0
6.1
9.0
21.1
3 – 4 yrs
11.6
9.5
6.6
9.5
22.5
5 – 6 yrs
12.6
10.2
7.5
10.1
24.6
7 – 8 yrs
13.6
11.1
8.1
10.7
26.7
9 – 10 yrs
15.0
11.6
9.0
11.3
28.3
11 – 12 yrs
16.1
12.5
9.6
12.0
30.3
Tutu Skirt
ALL Tiers
Back Frill (cut 1)
Tier 1 (cut 4)
Tier 2 (cut 4)
Tier 3 (cut 4)
Length
Width
Width
Width
Width
12 – 18 mos
51.0
6.0
10.0
9.0
8.0
18 – 24 mos
54.3
6.0
10.0
9.0
8.0
2 – 3 yrs
59.0
6.0
10.0
9.0
8.0
3 – 4 yrs
63.0
6.0
10.0
9.0
8.0
5 – 6 yrs
67.0
6.5
10.5
9.5
8.5
7 – 8 yrs
69.6
7.0
11.0
10.0
9.0
9 – 10 yrs
72.5
7.5
11.5
10.5
9.5
11 – 12 yrs
77.0
8.0
12.0
11.0
10.0
Cutting Checklist:
Leotard ONLY:
NOTE – Use the cut lines on the Front and Back for the scoop back or straight back OPTIONS.Tutu OPTION:
NOTE – Use the cut lines on the Front and Back for the scoop back or straight back OPTIONS. Use the cut lines for the Tutu OPTION on Front and Back.NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- STRAIGHT BACK OPTION: STRAPS – Fold Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edge. Turn right side out. Press. Repeat for second Strap. Lay Front right side up. Place Straps right sides together at center of apex. Baste.
- STRAIGHT BACK OPTION: BODICE – Place Main Front and Lining right sides together. Pin at armscyes, apex and neckline. Stitch. Place Main Back and Lining right sides together matching top edge. Stitch. Stitch elastic onto wrong side of Main Back top edge. Open up Front and Back Main and Lining. Place Main Front onto Main Back right sides together, matching side seams. Pin. Place Front and Back Lining right sides together, matching side seams. Stitch. Turn bodice right side out.
- STRAIGHT BACK OPTION: ATTACHING STRAPS – Place Strap onto Back Lining right sides together at markings, matching raw edge to top edge. Pin. FIT CHECK – Adjust Straps if needed. Stitch. Fold Strap up over stitched seam. Stitch ⅛ inch from top edge. Repeat to attach second Strap.
- SCOOP BACK OPTION: NECK AND ARMSCYE – Place Main and Lining Front pieces right sides together. Stitch along front neckline. Lay bodice with Main Front wrong side facing up. Stitch elastic at neckline. Place Main and Lining Front pieces right sides together. Stitch along one armscye. Lay bodice with Main Front wrong side facing up. Stitch elastic along armscye. Repeat on other armscye. Turn Front right side out, wrong sides together. Press. Repeat with Main and Lining Back pieces.
- SCOOP BACK OPTION: SHOULDER AND SIDE SEAMS – Lay Back piece wrong side facing up and Front piece right sides facing up. Lift Main Back up and slide Main Front in, right side facing up. Slide Straps inside until shoulders meet. Stitch. Trim corners of elastic to reduce bulk. the sides of Main and Lining right sides together, matching seams from Front to Back. Stitch. Repeat for other side seam. Turn leotard right side out. Press.
- LEOTARD ONLY: BOTTOM SEAM – Turn leotard inside side out. Flip Lining up. Place Main Front and Back right sides together at bottom seam. Stitch. Place Front and Back Lining right sides together at bottom seam. Stitch. Turn leotard right side out.
- LEOTARD ONLY: LEG ELASTIC – Overlap short ends of elastic by ½ inch each. Stitch. Baste Main and Lining at leg opening. Mark quarter points of elastic and leg opening. Place elastic onto Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Stitch. Fold leg opening and elastic over to inside. Topstitch. Repeat for the second leg opening.
- TUTU OPTION: BOTTOMS SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Main Front and Back Bottoms pieces right sides together at side seams. Repeat with Lining Front and Back Bottoms.
- TUTU OPTION: TIERS – Take Tier 1 and stitch two rows of gathering stitches on the top raw edge. Repeat on all Tiers and Back Frill. Gently gather. Overlap two Tier 1 pieces by 2 inches at a short edge. Baste. Repeat, overlapping other short edge. Repeat with the other two Tier 1 pieces. Repeat for Tier 2 and Tier 3. Gently gather Back Frill piece.
- TUTU OPTION: CONSTRUCTING TUTU – With Leotard right side out, place one Tier 1 over Main Leotard right sides together at waist edge, matching raw edges. Adjust gathers if needed. Stitch with stretch stitch or narrow zig zag. Repeat attaching second Tier 1. Place Main Bottoms inside one Tier 2 piece, placing it 1 ⅛ inch from Bottoms raw waist edge, right sides together. Pin. FIT CHECK – Adjusting gathers of Tier 2 to fit at hips, if needed. Stitch using a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag. Repeat to attach second Tier 2. Place Tier 3 onto Main Bottoms right sides together, ¾ of an inch away from Tier 2 stitch line. Stitch using a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag. Repeat to attach second Tier 3. Fold Back Frill in half widthwise. Find and mark center point of Back Frill and Bottoms. Place Back Frill onto Main Bottoms, ¾ of an inch away from Tier 3 stitched seam, matching centers. Stitch using a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag. Push Bottoms inside Tiers. With Bodice inside out, separate Leotard Lining from Main Leotard. Place Bottoms with tutu inside, right sides together, matching waist edge. Stitch using a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag.
- TUTU OPTION: ATTACHING BOTTOMS LINING – Pull Bodice Lining over Main Bodice wrong sides together, matching waist edge. Place Bottoms Lining onto Bodice Lining, right sides together, matching waist edges. Stitch using a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag. Pull Main Bottoms out from inside. Stitch bottom seam right sides together. Turn garment right sides out through leg opening of Bottoms Lining. Stitch Bottoms Lining right sides together at bottom seam. Push Bottoms Lining inside Main Bottoms.
- TUTU OPTION: LEG ELASTIC – Overlap short ends of elastic by ½ inch each. Stitch. Baste Bottoms Main and Lining together at leg opening. Mark quarter points of elastic and leg opening. Place elastic onto Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Stitch. Fold leg opening and elastic over to inside. Topstitch. Repeat for second leg opening.
- TUTU OPTION: FINISHING – Hand stitch Back Frill to bottom Tier 3 together at various intervals using a tack stitch. Repeat to hand stitch top Tier 3 through both Tier 2 layers. Repeat to hand stitch top Tier 2 to bottom Tier 1.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Straight Back OPTION: Straps1.0If you are sewing the straight back leotard OPTION, follow below. For the scoop back leotard OPTION, skip to step 4.
This step is the same for the leotard with or without the Tutu. The steps show the Tutu OPTION leotard (separate bodice and bottoms), but the steps are the same for both.
1.1Fold the Strap in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin the long edge.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
1.3Turn the Strap right side out.
1.4Press the Strap.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 for the second Strap.
1.5Lay the Front right side up. Place the Straps right sides together at the center of the apex. Pin.
1.6Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2 . Straight Back OPTION: Bodice2.0This step is the same for the leotard with or without the Tutu.
2.1Place the Main Front and Lining right sides together. Pin at the armscyes, apex and neckline (top edges).
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
TIP – Stitch back and forth at the apex to secure the Straps.
2.3Place the Main Back and Lining right sides together matching the top edge.
NOTE – We are showing the Straight Back OPTION with Tutu. However, the process is the same for all options.
2.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
2.5Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Main Back top edge. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it.
2.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
NOTE – You are stitching through the Main, Lining, and elastic.
2.7Open up the Front and Back Main and Lining. Place the Main Front onto the Main Back right sides together, matching side seams. Pin.
Place the Front Lining and the Back Lining right sides together, matching side seams. Pin.
2.8Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
NOTE – You are stitching from the Front along the side seam to the Back.
2.9Turn the bodice right side out.
3 . Straight Back OPTION: Attaching Straps3.0This step is the same for the leotard with or without the Tutu.
3.1Place a Strap onto the Back Lining right sides together at the pattern markings, matching the raw edge of the Strap to the top edge. Pin.
NOTE – Check the Strap isn’t twisted.
FIT CHECK – Try the leotard on and adjust the Straps if needed. Remember to keep a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Stitch several times back and forth two to three times to secure the Straps.
3.3Fold the Strap up over the stitched seam. Pin.
3.4Stitch ⅛ inch from the top edge.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to attach the second Strap.
If you are doing the Straight Back Leotard skip to step 6.
If you are doing the Tutu OPTION, skip to step 10.
Otherwise follow below.
4 . Scoop Back OPTION: Neck and Armscye4.0This step is the same for the leotard with or without the Tutu. The steps show the leotard only OPTION (one piece), but the steps are the same for both.
4.1Place the Main and Lining Front pieces right sides together. Pin along the front neckline.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.3If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zigzag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
4.4Lay the bodice with the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the elastic along the neckline. Pin.
4.5Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, stitching over the previous stitch line.
4.6Place the Main and Lining Front pieces right sides together. Pin along one armscye.
4.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.8Lay the bodice with the Main Front wrong side facing up. Place the elastic along the armscye. Pin.
4.9Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, try to stitch on the previous stitch line.
4.10Repeat steps 4.6 to 4.9 on the other armscye.
4.11Turn the Front right side out, wrong sides together. Press.
4.12Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.11 with the Main and Lining Back pieces.
5 . Scoop Back OPTION: Shoulder and Side Seams5.0This step is the same for the leotard with or without the Tutu.
5.1Lay your Back piece wrong side facing up and your Front piece right sides facing up.
5.2You will be placing the Front inside the Back, with the Main Back facing up.
Lift the Main Back up and slide the Main Front in, right side facing up.
Slide the Straps inside until the shoulders meet. Pin.
5.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.4Trim the corners of the elastic to reduce bulk.
5.5Place the sides of the Main and Lining right sides together, matching seams from Front to Back. Pin.
NOTE – You are pinning the Main Front and Back together and the Front and Back Lining together.
5.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.7Repeat steps 5.5 to 5.6 for the other side seam.
5.8Turn the leotard right side out. Press.
If you are only sewing Leotard follow below.
If you are sewing the Tutu options, skip to Step 8.
6 . Leotard ONLY: Bottom Seam6.0This step is the same for both Leotard OPTIONS.
6.1Turn the leotard inside side out (Lining right side facing up). Flip the Lining up and out of the way.
Place the Main Front and Main Back right sides together at the bottom seam.
6.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.3Place the Front and Back Lining right sides together at the bottom seam. Pin.
6.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch.
6.5Turn the leotard right side out.
7 . Leotard ONLY: Leg Elastic7.1Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each. Pin.
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
7.2Baste the Main and Lining together at the leg opening, using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.3Mark the quarter points of the elastic and leg opening by folding them in half and then in half again.
7.4Place the elastic onto the Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – Place the bulky elastic join near the side seam, so it does not rub or bother more sensitive areas.
7.5Stitch the elastic using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2mm is recommended.
7.6Fold the leg opening and elastic over to the inside by the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
7.7Topstitch close to the edge of the elastic using a zigzag stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
7.8Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.7 for the second leg opening.
If you want to add a Tutu, follow below.
If you are not adding a Tutu, your Leotard is finished!
8 . Tutu OPTION: Bottoms Side Seams8.1Place Main Front and Back Bottom pieces right sides together, matching the side seams. Pin.
8.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.3Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 on the Lining Front and Back Bottoms pieces.
9 . Tutu OPTION: Tiers9.0The tutu is constructed of three Tiers and a Back Frill underneath. Tier 1 – 3 have two layers each. Tier 1 is attached to the hem of the bodice; the rest of the Tiers and Back Frill are attached to the waist edge of the bottoms. The Back Frill sits underneath the last Tier 3 to give it extra lift.
NOTE – Netting can be tricky to photograph. Where needed we have photographed a cotton and/or a netting version, so that it’s easier to see.
NOTE – This step is the same for the straight or scoop back OPTION.
9.1You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top raw edge of Tier 1.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take Tier 1 and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¾ inch from the edge.
Repeat step 9.1 on all Tiers (3x Four pieces in total) and for the Back Frill.
9.2Gently pull on the bobbin threads on a Tier 1 piece to gather it. Gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.
9.3Overlap two of the Tier 1 pieces by 2 inches at a short edge. Pin.
9.4Baste across the overlap using ¼ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.4 overlapping the other short edge of the Tier 1 piece, creating a circle.
9.5Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.4 with the other two Tier 1 pieces. You will now have 2 x Tier 1 circle pieces.
Repeat steps 9.3 to 9.5 for Tier 2 and Tier 3. You will now have 2x Tier 1 circles, 2x Tier 2 circles and 2x Tier 3 circles.
Repeat step 9.2 for the Back Frill piece.
10 . Tutu OPTION: Constructing Tutu10.0NOTE – This step is the same for the straight or scoop back OPTION.
10.1With the Leotard right side out, place one Tier 1 piece over the Main Leotard right sides together at the waist edge, matching raw edges. Adjust the gathers if needed. Pin.
NOTE – You are not attaching the Tier to the Lining. You are only attaching it to the Main Leotard.
10.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.2 attaching the second Tier 1 piece, stitching it directly over the first Tier 1 piece.
10.3Place the Main Bottoms inside one Tier 2 piece, placing it 1 ⅛ inch from the Bottoms raw waist edge, right sides together. Pin.
FIT CHECK – Fit check this on your model, adjusting the gathers of Tier 2 to fit at the hips, if needed.
NOTE – By placing the Tiers out of the seam allowance it helps give the tutu structure.
NOTE – It is easier to attach and stitch this way so that the gathered Tier is away from the sewing machine.
10.4Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag from the edge of the tutu.
Repeat steps 10.3 to 10.4 to attach the second Tier 2 piece, stitching directly over the first Tier 2 piece.
10.5Place a Tier 3 piece onto the Main Bottoms right sides together, ¾ of an inch away from the Tier 2 stitch line.
10.6Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag.
Repeat steps 10.5 to 10.6 to attach the second Tier 3, stitching directly over the first Tier 3 piece.
10.7Fold the Back Frill in half widthwise, creating a double layer.
Find and mark the center point of the Back Frill and the Bottoms.
10.8Place the Back Frill onto the Main Bottoms, ¾ of an inch away from the Tier 3 stitched seam, matching centers. Pin.
10.9Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag.
Push the Bottoms inside the Tiers.
10.10Turn the Bodice inside out pushing the Tiers into the Bodice. Separate the Leotard Lining from the Main Leotard.
10.11Place the Bottoms with tutu inside the Bodice with the right sides together, matching the waist edge. Pin.
The layers should be in the following order: top, tutu, bottoms.
NOTE – Check that the Bottoms are facing the correct way, so you are attaching Front to Front, Back to Back, and matching side seams.
NOTE – There are a lot of layers here. Take your time to check all the layers are caught in the pins. Use extra pins if needed.
10.12Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag.
NOTE – This is tricky to handle with all the layers around the sewing machine, so take your time and go slow when stitching.
TIP – Baste the layers together first, then check to make sure all the correct layers have been caught in the seam and no unwanted layers have been caught. Then, pin 1 to 2 inches away from the edge which will help flatten the area being sewn, and serge or stitch the seam.
11 . Tutu OPTION: Attaching Bottoms Lining11.0NOTE – This step is the same for the straight or scoop back OPTION.
11.1Pull the Bodice Lining over the Main Bodice wrong sides together, matching the waist edge.
11.2Place the Bottoms Lining onto the Bodice Lining, right sides together, matching waist edges. Pin.
11.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance and a stretch stitch or narrow zig zag.
11.4Pull the Main Bottoms out from inside. Match the bottom seam right sides together. Pin.
11.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
11.6Turn the garment right sides out through the Bottom Lining.
11.7Place the Bottoms Lining right sides together at the bottom seam. Pin.
11.8Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Push the Bottoms Lining inside the Main Bottoms.
12 . Tutu OPTION: Leg Elastic12.1Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each. Pin.
Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic to hold, forming a circle.
12.2Place the Bottoms Main and Lining together at the leg opening. Pin.
12.3Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
12.4Find and mark the quarter points of the elastic and leg opening.
Place the elastic onto the Lining, matching quarter points and raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – Place the bulky elastic join near the side seam, so it does not rub or bother more sensitive areas.
12.5Stitch the elastic using a zig zag stitch.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5mm and length of 2mm is recommended.
12.6Fold the leg opening and elastic over to the inside by the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
12.7Topstitch close to the edge of the elastic using a zigzag stitch.
NOTE – Topstitching close to the inside edge of the elastic helps prevent the elastic from flipping to the right side.
12.8Repeat steps 12.4 to 12.7 for the second leg opening.
13 . Tutu OPTION: Finishing13.1Thread a needle for hand stitching, knotting the end.
13.2Place the tutu onto a flat surface. Hand stitch the Back Frill to the bottom Tier 3 together at various intervals throughout using a tack stitch. Leave a longer tail when you make a stitch (or a little cross of two stitches) and tie a double knot to finish. Cut off the tails.
NOTE – We have used contrasting thread so that it is visible. We recommend using matching thread so that the stitches cannot be seen.
Repeat to hand stitch the top Tier 3 throughout both Tier 2 layers.
Repeat to hand stitch the top Tier 2 to the bottom Tier 1.
Your Leotard with Tutu is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Pancake Tutu & Ballet Leotard is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpballetpack.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewPancake Tutu & Ballet Leotard
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Sew your little one a custom ballet leotard with either a scoop back and built up straps or a straight back with separate straps. The leg openings, neckline and armscyes all have elastic for support. The optional tutu is made up of tiers of netting to create the pancake shape and is gathered into the waist of the leotard.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Straight back OPTION:
Chest
Hips
Center front length
Center back length
Leg opening
Back edge
Strap length
12 – 18 mos
16.0
16.2
10.1
6.7
9.6
7.3
6.6
18 – 24 mos
17.0
17.2
11.5
8.0
10.0
7.6
7.0
2 – 3 yrs
18.5
18.6
12.6
9.0
10.5
8.2
7.2
3 – 4 yrs
19.5
19.7
14.1
10.6
11.0
8.7
7.3
5 – 6 yrs
21.2
21.6
17.5
13.7
12.1
9.6
7.5
7 – 8 yrs
22.7
23.2
19.7
15.7
13.0
10.5
7.6
9 – 10 yrs
23.7
25.6
20.6
16.7
14.3
11.0
8.0
11 – 12 yrs
25.5
27.5
21.7
17.7
15.5
11.7
8.2
Materials and ToolsLeotard
- Main – The leotard has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are cotton lycra, nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
- Lining – These are typically similar to dance lycra fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular dance fabric instead of a dance lining as this offers more support.
Tutu Fabric – You will need a stiff poly netting to create the pancake tutu, with a minimum width of 78 inches / 200 cm.
NOTE – Do not wash your netting before sewing as it can change the structure of the netting. You want it to be stiff so that it holds the correct shape. You can sponge clean the netting as needed.
NOTE – If you are joining the Leotard & Tutu do not machine wash these. Wash the Leotard by hand, being careful not to submerge the netting in water. You can sponge clean the netting as needed.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Leotard (ALL OPTIONS)
Tutu Skirt
Main
Lining
Back Frill
Tier 1
Tier 2
Tier 3
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.00
1.00
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.25
1.00
2 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.25
1.00
5 – 8 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.25
1.25
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.50
1.25
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
0.75
0.50
1.50
1.25
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ inch wide Elastic:
- Leg opening – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Neck and armscye – 1 ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Straight back OPTION – ½ yards will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.