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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
2
Children’s Piper Paperbag Waist Pants
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
These stylish and comfortable trousers feature a paperbag waist, elasticated waistband, and pockets. There are two length options, two waistband options as well as an optional tie belt and side leg vent.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes newborn-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the waist measurements from the size chart. If the measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to the waist measurement and grade out to the hip of the size you need. If your model falls at the bottom end of your size range, you may need to take the waist in at the side seams or shorten your elastic.
- Length – The trouser legs are designed to be slightly too long. The slit at the bottom of the trouser is designed to sit onto the shoe or just skimming the floor. That said, every individual has slightly different leg proportions so do a muslin to check if you need to lengthen or shorten the trouser leg before cutting into your final fabric.
- Inseam – Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. Have your model stand up straight and measure from where the crotch seam will hit down the inside of your leg. Since this pant is intended to be quite long, you will measure all the way to the floor. Compare this measurement to the Inside Leg on the finished measurement chart to help adjust for height.
- Height – All humans vary in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your model’s personal body. If you need to lengthen or shorten,
- Follow the advice below on crotch fitting to adjust at the crotch.
- Also adjust using the lengthen/shorten lines part way down the leg.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If your model has creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your model’s measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between your model and the pattern. Along the rise, you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out the rise and you are good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your model’s figure!
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit. Fitted pants can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your model’s body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to any wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip or pin together at the waist and try on your model.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1 inch elastic – see the cutting chart below for lengths.
- Half a yard of iron-on interfacing – for medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the waistband more structure.
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Bag – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Front Waistband:
- Fabric – Cut 1 on the fold
- Lining – Cut 1 on the fold
- Interfacing – Cut 1 on the fold
- Back Waistband:
- Fabric – Cut 1 on the fold
- Lining – Cut 1 on the fold
- Belt – Cut 2 (Sizes 2 – 12 yrs)
- Belt Loop – Cut 1 (Sizes 2 – 12 yrs)
- OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband
- Front – Cut 1
- Back – Cut 1
Project OverviewPiper Paperbag Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Piper Paperbag Pants are great for school or play. They are a stylish and comfortable slim fitting pant or shorts. They have an elasticated back waistband and front waist pleats to create room in the pants. Add the fun paperbag waist and tie belt to cinch in the waist for the full paperbag effect. Pockets are always a must for treasures. Optional side vents can be added for a bit more fun.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Pants inseam
Shorts inseam
Front rise
Back rise
Pants ankle
Pants calf
0 – 3 mos
16.0
20.4
7.2
2.5
4.8
6.0
5.2
6.6
3 – 6 mos
17.2
21.1
9.1
2.5
5.0
6.1
5.6
7.0
6 – 12 mos
18.0
22.0.
11.1
2.5
5.2
6.4
6.0
7.2
12 – 18 mos
19.0
22.6
12.6
2.5
5.4
6.6
6.2
7.4
18 – 24 mos
19.7
23.5
14.0
2.5
5.5
6.7
6.6
7.7
2 – 3 yrs
20.5
28.4
15.2
2.5
5.6
8.0
7.4
9.6
3 – 4 yrs
22.0
29.5
16.2
2.5
5.7
8.1
8.0
9.7
5 – 6 yrs
23.0
30.4
19.0
2.5
6.0
8.5
8.2
10.0
7 – 8 yrs
24.0
31.0
21.2
2.5
6.3
9.0
8.6
10.1
9 – 10 yrs
25.0
32.0
24.0
2.5
6.7
9.2
9.0
10.2
11 – 12 yrs
26.0
32.5
27.5
2.5
7.0
9.6
9.4
10.3
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsYou can use nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the pants more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, linen, denim, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
TIP – As you are likely to be sitting and moving while wearing it, you may wish to check your fabric does not crease easily.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
3 – 18 mos
1.50
1.25
18 – 24 mos
1.50
1.50
2 – 4 yrs
1.50
1.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.75
1.50
9 – 12 yrs
1.75
1.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
3 – 18 mos
1.50
1.25
18 – 24 mos
1.50
1.50
2 – 4 yrs
1.50
1.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.75
1.50
9 – 12 yrs
1.75
1.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pants Shorts OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband 0 – 24 mos 2-4, 10-11, 18-20 2-4, 10-11, 18-20 4, 12, 20 2 – 6 yrs 5-9, 13-17, 21-23, 25, 30 5-9, 13-17, 25, 30 16, 24, 29 7 – 12 yrs 5-9, 13-17, 21-23, 25-28, 30 5-9, 13-17, 25, 30 16, 24, 29 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Pants Shorts OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband 0 – 6 mos 2-4, 10-11, 18-20 2-4, 18-20 4, 12, 20 6 – 24 mos 2-4, 10-11, 18-20 2-4, 11, 18-20 4, 12, 20 2 – 8 yrs 5-9, 13-17, 21-23, 25, 30 5-9, 13-17, 25, 30 16, 24, 29 9 – 12 yrs 5-9, 13-17, 21-23, 25-28, 30 5-9, 13-17, 25, 30 16, 24, 29 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Belt Loop (Cut 1)
Belt (Cut 2)
OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband
Elastic (Cut 1)
Front (Cut 1)
Back (Cut 1)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
0 – 3 mos
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3.0
14.1
3.0
21.1
1.0
8.0
3 – 6 mos
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3.0
14.4
3.0
21.4
1.0
8.5
6 – 12 mos
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3.0
16.1
3.0
21.7
1.0
9.0
12 – 18 mos
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3.0
16.5
3.0
23.2
1.0
9.5
18 – 24 mos
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3.0
18.2
3.0
23.7
1.0
10.0
2 – 3 yrs
2.0
10.3
4.0
21.0
3.5
18.5
3.5
26.0
1.0
10.0
3 – 4 yrs
2.0
10.3
4.0
21.5
3.5
19.1
3.5
26.4
1.0
10.5
5 – 6 yrs
2.0
10.3
4.0
22.1
3.5
19.5
3.5
28.0
1.0
11.0
7 – 8 yrs
2.0
10.3
4.0
22.5
3.5
21.1
3.5
28.4
1.0
11.5
9 – 10 yrs
2.0
10.3
4.0
23.1
3.5
21.4
3.5
29.3
1.0
12.0
11 – 12 yrs
2.0
10.3
4.0
23.5
3.5
22.0
3.5
29.4
1.0
12.5
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches onto fabric.
- INTERFACING – Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Front Waistband lining piece.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystitch the Waistband (Main and Lining) and both Front and Back Legs.
- PLEATS – On the Front Leg piece match the pattern markings to form pleats. Fold the pleats toward the center of the Front Leg and baste in place.
- POCKETS – Place Pocket Bag and Front Leg right sides together, sewing along curved edge. Trim seam allowance, press, turn and topstitch. Put Pocket Bag along curved edge and do a French seam. Baste the top and side edges to front of the pants.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – With both Front Legs wrong sides together sew the front rise with a French seam. Follow same process with back rise.
- SIDE SEAM – Place Front Legs and Back Legs together along the side seam wrong sides together. The side seam will be sewn using a French seam. If adding the optional vents, stop sewing when the markings are reached. Repeat on other leg.
- OPTIONAL VENTS – Skip to step 5 if doing pants without vents. Clip into the seam allowance close to stitching above the vent. Press vent seam allowance to wrong side. Fold the top corner of the vent seam diagonally, then fold the rest of the seam allowance and pin, then topstitch.
- OPTIONAL PAPERBAG WAISTBAND – With the Paperbag Waistband right sides together, pin the short sides together and sew them together on short sides. Open the seam and press, then fold the frill lengthways, wrong sides together and press again. Mark the pleat lines starting at one end mark: 2 inches, 1 inch, then 1 ½ inches. Continue marking until you have at least 1 ½ inches left. Pin well and baste the top leaving the unpleated edges on each side unbasted. Turn each short side wrong side out and stitch together, right sides facing.
- BELT LOOPS AND WAISTBAND – Fold Belt Loop as double fold bias tape. Top stitch on both sides of the Belt Loop, then cut into four equal pieces. Place Waistband Lining pieces right sides together and sew on short ends. Repeat with the Main Waistband pieces. Press a ½ inch memory seam allowance on Waistband Lining for later. Place Belt Loops onto Main Waistband and baste in place. Place Paperbag Waistband and Main Waistband right sides together and pin. Put Waistband Lining on the Main Waistband wrong sides together. Sew the waistband, turn right side out, fold up memory seam allowance from step 6 and press. Pin lining along back, then stitch in the ditch or topstitch waistband. Thread elastic through waistband and stitch elastic into side seams then close waistband.
- INSEAM – Press memory hem, then finish with a French seam.
- HEM – Fold hem, enclosing raw edges, pin and topstitch.
- BELT – Sew short ends with right sides together, press, fold in half lengthwise with right sides together. Pin all three sides and stitch leaving an opening to turn. Trim corners, turn right side out and press then topstitch.
- If you haven’t already, check the finished garment measurements of the waist & hips against you or your model. If the trouser size you are doing is not fitted against your body, you may need to adjust the side seams to get a snug but comfortable fit…. Even if you have sewed this pattern several times, I recommend you do this fitting step each time as a woven fabric will sit differently to a knit, and different woven fabrics have different levels of give in them.
- Baste or clip the trouser front and back at the side seams and try on inside out.
- Check the fit while standing and while sitting.
- Clip or pin the side seams at the waist and hips to get the fit so you are happy with it. This may take a bit of playing with to get it right but the results for a personally fitted garment are well worth it. It’s like going to a personal tailor for a suit vs. buying one off the rack. You’ll be much more comfortable, and the garment will fit beautifully.
- Take the trousers off again. If you have taken the side seams in, trim the side seams to your new line you pinned, leaving a half inch seam allowance.
- If you took the side seam in at the hip, continue your new cutting line straight down to the hem so the trouser leg falls straight down. Then continue below.
- If you haven’t already, check the finished garment measurements of the waist & hips against you or your model. If the trouser size you are doing is not fitted against your body, you may need to adjust the side seams to get a snug but comfortable fit…. Even if you have sewed this pattern several times, I recommend you do this fitting step each time as a woven fabric will sit differently to a knit, and different woven fabrics have different levels of give in them.
- Baste or clip the trouser front and back at the side seams and try on inside out.
- Check the fit while standing and while sitting.
- Clip or pin the side seams at the waist and hips to get the fit so you are happy with it. This may take a bit of playing with to get it right but the results for a personally fitted garment are well worth it. It’s like going to a personal tailor for a suit vs. buying one off the rack. You’ll be much more comfortable, and the garment will fit beautifully.
- Take the trousers off again. If you have taken the side seams in, trim the side seams to your new line you pinned, leaving a half inch seam allowance.
- If you took the side seam in at the hip, continue your new cutting line straight down to the hem so the trouser leg falls straight down. Then continue below.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch –Hem 1 inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem 1 inch
0.0NOTE – The child’s and ladies’ versions are very similar, however the child’s does not have a back dart and has an adjustable elasticated back rather than an invisible zip.
If you are making both, make sure to check that you are following the correct instructions.
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Front Waistband lining piece.
0.3Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add staystitching, the pants and waistbands are likely to stretch and then they won’t fit properly when you try to stitch them together.
Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the garment.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch both Front and Back Legs and the Front and Back Waistbands (Main and Lining). Starting at the center, stitching towards each side, in the direction of the arrows.
1 . Front Pleats1.1With the Front Leg right side up, match the pattern marking nearest the side seam to the pattern marking on the first pleat, placing them right sides together.
Turn the Front Leg over, wrong side facing up, then fold the pleat toward the center and pin in place.
1.2Repeat step 1.1 using the next two pattern markings to make a second pleat.
1.3Baste along the top of the pleats using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Normally, you baste inside the seam allowance, however, for these pleats it is important to baste at ½ inch to ensure that the pleats lay correctly.
1.4Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.3 for the other Front Leg.
2 . Pockets2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Pocket Bag to the Front Leg along the curved edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 2.4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams. The reason we will be doing French seams is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
2.1With the right sides together (wrong sides out), pin the Pocket Bag and Front Leg together along the curved edge.
2.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.3Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch.
TIP – Be careful not to cut through the stitches.
TIP – Trimming the seam allowance in half here ensures that when the seam is encased in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
2.4Flip the Pocket Bag to the wrong side. Press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
2.5Topstitch with ¼ inch seam allowance to secure the Pocket opening. This will encase the raw edges.
2.6The Pocket is attached using French seams.
With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Pocket and the Pocket Bag together along the curved edge.
2.7Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
2.8Trim the seam allowance in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. Neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
2.9Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen.
2.10Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
2.11Baste the top and sides of Pocket to pants front using ¼ inch seam allowance.
3 . Front and Back Rise3.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front Leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the rise seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the side. Repeat for the rise seam on the Back Leg. Then, skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
3.1The front rise seam is also sewn using a French seam.
With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Front Legs together along the front rise.
3.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.3Trim the seam allowance in half.
3.4Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
3.5Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen.
3.6Turn right side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
NOTE – Press seam to wearer’s left.
3.7We are going to do French seams to stitch the Back Rise. This hides all the raw edges and gives a clean finish.
With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the back center rise seam along the curved edge.
3.8Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
3.9Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Be careful not to cut through stitches.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
3.10Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
3.11Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so you cannot see them (a French seam).
3.12Turn right side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
NOTE – Press seam to wearer’s left.
4 . Side Seam4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Legs with the right sides together. Pin along the outer leg and serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. For the optional vents, stop serging when you reach the markings. Press the seam to the back. Then, skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
4.1The side seam is also sewn using a French seam.
With the wrong sides together, pin the Front Legs to the Back Legs along the side seam.
4.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Be careful not to cut through stitches.
4.4Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
4.5Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so you cannot see them.
4.6Turn right side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
4.7Repeat for the other side seam.
5 . OPTIONAL Vents5.0For pants without the vents, skip to step 6.
FIT CHECK –
5.1Transfer pattern vent markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
5.2Clip into the seam allowance above the vent. Clip as close to the stitching as possible.
TIP – Clip horizontally into the seam allowance and close to where the stitching finishes.
5.3Press the seam allowance of the vent ¼ inch to the wrong side.
5.4Tuck the top corner of the vent seam allowance under diagonally to enclose the top of the raw edge, and then fold the rest of the vent seam allowance another ¼ inch to enclose the raw edge. Pin in place.
5.5Topstitch starting at bottom of pants, stitching up the vent, horizontally at top, and then back down the other side of the vent.
TIP – At the top corner, put the needle down, lift the pressure foot and turn the pant leg. Repeat for the next corner.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.5 for the other leg.
6 . OPTIONAL Paperbag Waistband6.0For the Pants without the Paperbag Waistband skip to step 7. For the OPTIONAL Paperbag Waist, follow the steps below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Paperbag Waistband pieces right sides together, and serge along the short end using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open. Fold the Paperbag Waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Then skip to step 6.6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
6.1Place the Front and Back Paperbag Waistband pieces, right sides together. Pin along one short edge.
6.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.3Press the seam allowance open.
6.4Fold the Paperbag Waistband lengthways, wrong sides together, and press.
6.5Mark the placements of the pleats on the right side of the Paperbag Waistband using a washable marker or tailors chalk. Starting at one end, make marks at 2 inches, 1 inch, then 1 ½ inches. Continue marking at 1 inch and 1 ½ inches, until you have at least 1 ½ inches left.
NOTE – The first 2 inches include your ½ inch seam allowance.
6.6Starting at the 2-inch mark, pinch towards you then folding to the 1 inch marking. Pin in place. This creates a ½ inch pleat.
Pinch the 1 ½ inch marking towards you, then fold back to the 1 inch marking, creating another ½ inch pleat. Pin in place.
Continue pleating across until you reach the last 1-inch marking.
TIP – Use a lot of pins to secure the pleats.
6.7Starting at the first pleat, baste along the bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance, until you reach the last pleat. Do not baste across the first 1 ½ inches or the last 1 ½ inches.
NOTE – The raw edge will be enclosed into the Waistband at a later step.
Remove the pins from the pleats.
6.8Open each short side of the Paperbag Waistband flat. Pin the two short sides, right sides together.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Turn the Paperbag Waistband right way round. This will now be one round piece.
7 . Belt Loops and Waistband7.0For sizes 0 – 24 months the Belt and Belt Loops have not been included due to safety with cords. Skip steps 7.1 to 7.5, then follow steps 7.6 to 7.10.
FIT CHECK –
7.1Take the Belt Loop piece and press in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
7.2Open, fold the raw edges into the fold line, and press again.
7.3Press again along fold line from 7.1. This creates a long thin strip with the raw edges tucked inside.
7.4Top stitch ⅛ inch in along both sides of the strip.
7.5Cut into four equal pieces, set aside.
7.6Place the Back and Front (interfaced) Waistband Lining pieces, right sides together, matching the short edge.
7.7Pin together.
7.8Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.9Press the seam open.
Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.9 for the other side.
Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.9 for the Main Waistband (both sides).
7.10Fold the Main Waistband in half lengthwise, and then in half again. Mark the quarter points at the top and bottom of the Waistband (Front and Back). Place your Belt Loops at these markings, matching up the raw edges and pin in place.
7.11Baste in place using a ¼” seam allowance.
NOTE – The Belt Loops won’t lay flat against the Waistband. This is to give room for the Belt to be thread through.
7.12Press the bottom of the Lining Waistband (interfaced) piece ½ inch towards the wrong side.
7.13For the Pants without the Paperbag Waistband skip to step 7.14.
Place the raw edge of the Paperbag Waistband onto the top of the Main Waistband, right sides together.
NOTE – The bottom of the Waistband is marked on the pattern piece.
7.14Baste using ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.15Place the Waistband Lining onto the Main Waistband, right sides together, and pin along the top edge.
NOTE – For pants with a Paperbag Waistband, it is now sandwiched between the Main Waistband and Waistband Lining.
7.16Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check you have stitched through all the Belt Loops.
7.17Turn the Waistband right side out. Press along the top seam.
Fold the seam allowance you pressed in step 7.12 up.
NOTE – The pictures in this step show the pants with a Paperbag Waist, however, the steps are the same.
NOTE – If you would like your pleats to be more defined, press them in place. If you prefer softer pleats, only press the top seam.
7.18Match the bottom raw edge of the Main Waistband to the top of pants, right sides together. Pin.
TIP – Match the Waistband centers to the front and back pants seams and pin from the ends of the Waistband inwards. This will help ease the slightly curved Waistband onto the pants.
NOTE – The images used in these steps don’t show the Waistband Lining bottom seam allowance pressed up, but this is needed in order to enclose the raw edges.
7.19Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Check you have stitched through all the Belt Loops.
7.20Flip the Waistband up.
From the wrong side of the Pants, press the seam allowance up.
Fold the Waistband Lining down.
7.21Pin the Waistband Lining along the back seam.
Make sure the seam allowances are all caught inside as you pin. The raw edges should all be hidden.
TIP – Pin from the right side along the seam between the Pants and the Waistband. Flip it over to check as you go.
7.22‘Stitch in the ditch’ to attach the Waistband. This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam, just catching the other side of the waistband in the stitching and which encloses the raw edges. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment.
From the right side of the Pants, starting at the left side seam, stitch along the back seam only, where the Pants meet the Waistband.
Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and Pants flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished pants. Occasionally, lift the pants up to check that the stitching is catching the lining of the Waistband.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim to sew onto a tiny fraction of the Pants, instead of the Waistband. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
ALTERNATIVE – Topstitch the back of the Waistband using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
7.23Thread the elastic through the side seam and into the back of the Waistband.
TIP – To thread the elastic, pin one end of the elastic to the pants, so it does not slip inside. Then put a safety pin on the other end and thread it through.
FIT CHECK – Try the pants on. Check that it will sit comfortably around the waist and will hold the pants up, before continuing to the next step.
7.24With right sides facing up, stitch in the ditch along each side seam of the Waistband. The elastic should be ¼ inch over the side seam.
TIP – Use a triple stitch for extra security.
7.25Pin the Waistband Lining along the front seam.
Make sure the seam allowances are all caught inside as you pin. The raw edges should all be hidden.
TIP – Pin from the right side along the seam between the Pants and the Waistband. Flip it over to check as you go.
7.26Stitch in the ditch across the front, sewing from one side seam to the other.
8 . Inseam8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – With the right sides together, pin the Front to the Back along the inseam. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then, skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
8.1OPTIONAL – Press a memory hem at the bottom of each Leg by pressing the bottom edge up ½ inch to the wrong side and then another ½ inch.
Unfold the seam.
8.2Close the inseam with a French seam.
With the wrong sides together, pin the Front to the Back along the inseam.
8.3Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
8.4Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Be careful not to cut through stitches.
8.5Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
8.6Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so you cannot see them.
8.7Turn right side out and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the trouser crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside of the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is sufficient.
9 . Hem9.0This step is the same to hem either the pants or shorts.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the hem. Do not remove any fabric. Press 1 inch to the wrong side. Topstitch close to the edge. Then skip to step 10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
9.1Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press, then fold another ½ inch and press. Pin the hem in place.
9.2Topstitch along the folded edge.
10 . Belt10.0For sizes 0 – 24 months skip this step as the Belt and Belt Loops have not been included due to safety with cords.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold the Belt in half lengthwise and serge around the three raw edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-inch opening. Then skip to step 10.8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
10.1Match the short ends of the Belt pieces with the right sides together.
10.2Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.
10.3Press the seam allowance open.
10.4Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together.
10.5Pin along all three sides.
10.6Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-inch gap along the long side for turning.
10.7Trim the corners to prevent bulk.
10.8Turn right side out and press the seams.
TIP – Use a blunt object, like a chopstick, to push out the corners so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
10.9Topstitch ⅛ inch along all four sides, enclosing the opening used to turn.
Slide Belt into belt loops and your Paperbag Pants are complete.
NOTE – We recommend you thread the belt through the loops, center it, then stitch down ONE side seam so that it is permanently attached to the side seam and does not fall out. We do not recommend attaching it to both side seams as this will restrict the back waistband elastic from stretching to get it on and off.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Piper Paperbag Pants are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rppiperpaperbagpants.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewPiper Paperbag Pants
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Piper Paperbag Pants are great for school or play. They are a stylish and comfortable slim fitting pant or shorts. They have an elasticated back waistband and front waist pleats to create room in the pants. Add the fun paperbag waist and tie belt to cinch in the waist for the full paperbag effect. Pockets are always a must for treasures. Optional side vents can be added for a bit more fun.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Pants inseam
Shorts inseam
Front rise
Back rise
Pants ankle
Pants calf
0 – 3 mos
16.0
20.4
7.2
2.5
4.8
6.0
5.2
6.6
3 – 6 mos
17.2
21.1
9.1
2.5
5.0
6.1
5.6
7.0
6 – 12 mos
18.0
22.0.
11.1
2.5
5.2
6.4
6.0
7.2
12 – 18 mos
19.0
22.6
12.6
2.5
5.4
6.6
6.2
7.4
18 – 24 mos
19.7
23.5
14.0
2.5
5.5
6.7
6.6
7.7
2 – 3 yrs
20.5
28.4
15.2
2.5
5.6
8.0
7.4
9.6
3 – 4 yrs
22.0
29.5
16.2
2.5
5.7
8.1
8.0
9.7
5 – 6 yrs
23.0
30.4
19.0
2.5
6.0
8.5
8.2
10.0
7 – 8 yrs
24.0
31.0
21.2
2.5
6.3
9.0
8.6
10.1
9 – 10 yrs
25.0
32.0
24.0
2.5
6.7
9.2
9.0
10.2
11 – 12 yrs
26.0
32.5
27.5
2.5
7.0
9.6
9.4
10.3
Materials and ToolsYou can use nearly any medium weight woven fabric. If you use a fabric which is stiffer, it will give the pants more structure. Some great suggestions are duchess satin, crepe satin, cotton drill, cotton lawn, linen, denim, taffeta, velvet, wool, cotton or polycotton. If you use a fabric with a print or nap such as velvet, remember to cut all pieces in the same direction and to allow extra fabric for this.
TIP – As you are likely to be sitting and moving while wearing it, you may wish to check your fabric does not crease easily.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
3 – 18 mos
1.50
1.25
18 – 24 mos
1.50
1.50
2 – 4 yrs
1.50
1.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.75
1.50
9 – 12 yrs
1.75
1.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
Shorts
3 – 18 mos
1.50
1.25
18 – 24 mos
1.50
1.50
2 – 4 yrs
1.50
1.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.75
1.50
9 – 12 yrs
1.75
1.75
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1 inch elastic – see the cutting chart below for lengths.
- Half a yard of iron-on interfacing – for medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give the waistband more structure.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.