Children's Pretty Party Dress

If you are using interfacing, before starting sewing, iron your interfacing onto the wrong side of each of your Yokes using the manufacturer’s instructions

For best results, the interfacing should be placed on each Yoke piece and begin ironing from the center to the outside of the Yoke to avoid wrinkles.

Make sure do a test patch on a spare piece of fabric and use your interfacing manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the interfacing goes on smoothly with no ‘bubbles’ in it.

TIP – Trim the seam allowance (¼ inch) off the interfacing before ironing it on. This reduces bulk in the seam allowance and allows the garment to sit flat.

Take your Front Bodice piece and fold it in half width wise. Mark the center point on the neckline with a pin.

Repeat with one front Yoke piece and fold in half, marking the center point on the bottom of the Yoke with a pin.

With the Bodice right way up, place the Yoke upside down on to the top (with right sides together).

Match the center point pins and pin together.

Pin the Yoke to the Bodice. I use lots of pins to do this, pinning about every ½ inch.

Depending on the fabric you’ve used, you may find the Bodice curls downwards as you are pinning. Later when we’ve finished this step it will sit flat again.

Stitch the Yoke to the Bodice using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Stitch slowly and stretch the Bodice fabric slightly if needed to avoid any wrinkles.

I recommend sewing this seam with the Bodice side upwards (e.g. on top of the Yoke as you feed it into your sewing machine). The Yoke (especially if you have interfaced it) usually sits relatively flat, whereas the Bodice has a tendency to curl during this step. If the Bodice is on top, you can make sure there are no unexpected wrinkles as you sew.

TIP – Some fabrics have a tendency to wrinkle on this step. If you find this, something that really helps is to start stitching from the center of the Yoke out to one edge. Then repeat, stitching from the center out to the other edge.

NOTE – photos for steps 1.5 to 1.8 show the Bodice & Yokes from the wrong sides of the fabric.

Snip into the curve of the Yoke. Make these snips about once every inch.

You want to snip about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up witha hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we press it.

Open the Bodice out and press the seam downwards (away from the Yoke and into the Bodice).

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach one Back Yoke to the Back Bodice piece.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach the other front Yoke to one Front Bodice lining piece.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 to attach the other Back Yoke to the other Back Bodice lining piece.

With right sides together, place the front and Back Bodice pieces together. Stitch the side seams using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open.

With right sides together, place the front and Back Bodice lining pieces together. Stitch the side seams using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam open.

Fold the hem of the Bodice lining towards the wrong side of the fabric by ⅝ inch and press.

NOTE – this step is for the lining of the Bodice only.

Turn the Bodice so it is wrong side out, and the lining so it is right side out.

Make sure that you’ve got both front sides facing the same direction (the Front Bodice & Yoke is shorter than the Back).

Put the lining inside the dress. It will be right side to right side.

Pin them together first at the side seams, then at where the Yokes join the Bodice, then around the rest of the edges.

When you are pinning where the Yoke joins the Bodice, peak inside the top and check the fold lines of the fabric are lined up neatly before pinning.

Starting at the underarm seam (either one) stitch ¼ inch from the edge all the way around the neckline and arm holes continuously, until you meet back up where you started.

To get a nice sharp corner where the Yoke joins the Bodice, go slowly and put the needle down when you get to exactly where the stitching is. Then lift your presser foot and turn the fabric before putting your presser foot down again. This will give a nice sharp edge.

TIP – Place your fabric in your sewing machine so that the Bodice fabric is on top, and the lining underneath.

That way you’ll be able to easily see the seam where the Bodice meets the Yoke and get that turning as accurate as possible.

Cut the corners of the Yoke off (don’t cut all the way to the stitching or it will fray, just cut the bulk off so it’s easier when we turn it right way out).

If any of your edges are uneven, now is a good time to trim these too so it’s all nice and neat inside when you turn it.

Snip carefully into the corners where the Yoke and Bodice join. Only go about ½ to ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. If you go further, it will fray and leave a hole. We just want enough of a snip to make it easier to sit flat when you turn it right way out.

TIP – Use the very end of the scissors for maximum control. If you use mid-way through the blade, you’ll have less control and are much more likely to accidentally cut through your stitching.

You may find your fabric is quite thick and that it is difficult to snip through this section with just the very tip of the scissors. Keep using the end of the scissors but do several small snips instead of one larger one, or snip through one layer at a time in order to make this easier.

Snip into the curve of the Yoke around the neckline, and under the arms. Make these snips about once every inch.

You want to snip about ¾ of the way into your seam allowance. Do not snip too close or you’ll end up with a hole! Just go far enough to help the curve sit flat when we turn it right way out.

Turn Bodice right way out and press.

Top stitch approximately ⅛ inch from the edge along the section of the Bodice under the arms only. Make sure to start and finish right next to where the Yoke joins the Bodice. On the side where the seam is still open for the zip later, stitch all the way to the edge.

TIP – I use a blunt chopstick to poke the corners of the Yoke out, so they are nice and neat.

If you are using a contrast fabric for the Yoke, change your thread to match. Then top stitch approx. ⅛ inch from the edge all the way around both Yokes.

Pin the flaps of the Yokes together where you want them to cross over. The Back Yoke goes on top of the front Yoke.

The pattern is designed for the edges of the Yoke to overlap approximately 1 inch. However, if you can, try it on and position the flaps how you prefer them best. You will need at least 1 inch in order to easily attach snaps, poppers or buttons.

The Yoke should look like it now continues all the way around the neck, sitting nicely on the collar bone. The overlap where the front joins the Back should be smooth. The fit on every person will be slightly different so if it doesn’t look smooth, move the overlap around so that it sits nicely.

If you are using pops or snaps, apply them now using your manufacturer’s instructions. Use two for each shoulder, evenly spaced between your top stitching.

NOTE – If you are using plastic poppers/snaps and have used either a medium/thick-weight fabric, and/or interfacing, you may need to use an awl (or anything metal with a sharp point) to first make a small hole to poke the popper/snap point through.

If you are using buttons, stitch your buttonholes according to how your sewing machine does it on the Back Yoke, then apply the buttons to the front Yoke.

NOTE – When using buttons, I prefer to use two small buttons to make sure the shoulder sits neatly. If you use just one big button, the Yoke can pull out of shape (especially in the larger sizes). If you want the look of a large button, an alternative is to use hand stitched snaps underneath and then stitch the large button on top as a decorative feature.

SERGER OPTION – with the right sides of the Skirt fabric together, use a serger or overlocker to serge the side seams using a ⅟₂ inch seam allowance. Repeat to serge the Skirt lining pieces together. Press all seam allowances towards the Back. Then skip to step 6.

If you are not using a serger, use the following instructions:

We are going to do French seams to stitch the Skirt side seams. The reason we will be doing French seams is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

With wrong sides together (right sides outwards), stitch ¼ inch from the edge along both side seams of the Skirt.

Trim both seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – you are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn the Skirt inside out and press the side seams.

Pin and stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 with the Skirt lining.

If you are doing the netting layers, follow this step, otherwise skip to step 8.

REGULAR UPPER NETTING OPTION – Pin the two upper netting pieces together. Stitch ½ inch from the edge along both side seams. Trim so the seams are neat and press to the side.

FULL UPPER NETTING OPTION – Pin the four upper netting pieces together so they form a circle. Stitch ½ inch from the edge along all four side seams. Trim so the seams are neat and press to the side.

NOTE – When you are pressing netting or tulle you will need to use a low heat on your iron or it may melt. Test this first on a scrap of netting using your iron manufacturer’s instructions.

Pin the four lower netting pieces together so they form a circle. Stitch ½ inch from the edge along all four side seams. Trim so the seams are neat and press to the side.

We are now going to stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of the lower netting.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end, and will have loose tension. Depending on your machine you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Stitch your first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approx. ⅛ inch). Stitch your second row of gathering stitches approx. ¾ inch from the edge.

When you do your rows of gatherings stitches, I like to start at one side seam and sew to the next side seam. Cut your thread, leaving a long tail of thread hanging off (like in the photo). Start stitching again just after the side seam, and stitch around to the next seam.

You should now have two rows of gathering stitches all the way around the top of your lower lining, each of which run from side seam to side seam.

RUFFLER FOOT OPTION – If you have a ruffler foot attachment do not do this step, but instead align the netting as described in step 6.7. Stitch on using your ruffler foot. Then skip to step 6.11.

TIP – stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counter clockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.

TIP – use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those left over bobbin threads I find I have!

REGULAR UPPER NETTING OPTION – Skip to step 6.5.

FULL UPPER NETTING OPTION – Repeat step 6.3 to create 2 rows of gathering stitches along the top of the upper netting.

Fold the bottom of the Skirt lining into quarters to find the center front, center back, left side and right side. Place pins in all 4 places then unfold it again.

The Skirt lining should now be back in its circle shape but with pins at the center front, center back and side seams along the bottom (hemline).

We will be matching these pins to the center front, center back, left, and right sides of the lower netting shortly. There is no need to mark these points on the netting as you cut it out in four pieces so you can use the 4 side seams as reference.

NOTE – Make sure to change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch now so it’s ready for the following steps.

TIP – Pins can fall out of netting quite easily. To avoid this, make sure to weave each pin in and out of the netting a number of times, or use clips.

With both the Skirt lining, and the netting right side out, slip the lower netting over the Skirt lining.

Align the hem of your lower netting so that it is 1 inch longer than the raw edge of the dress.

Pin the top of the netting to the Skirt lining your quarter points.

TIP – When you place your pins, take care not to just have them touch the Skirt lining & netting. Do not pin the thread. If you pin the thread, you will have difficulty gathering the thread later.

NOTE – The hem allowance is 1 inch. This means if you do it like just described the overhang will end up being 2 inches when the dress has been hemmed.

We are now going to gather the netting. The best way I find to do this is in quarters.

Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the netting. Gather the netting all the way across the quarter you are working on until the netting in that section fits the Skirt lining.

You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers, so it looks evenly gathered.

Then move on to the next quarter and so on until the whole netting layer has been gathered and now fits the Waistband.

Make sure to keep the bottom of the netting overhanging the bottom of the lining by 1 inch. Pin in place.

NOTE – Your Skirt will still look far too wide at this point to fit your child. Don’t worry, when we attach it to the Bodice later, we will gather it again.

TIP – I like to do this step by hanging the Skirt lining over the edge of my ironing board. That way I have a flat section across the bit I’m working on, and I can easily see spread my gathers out evenly.

Stitch in between the two lines of gathering.

Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of gathering thread so that they come all the way through the ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the ruffle and pull this out too.

TIP – you may find the thread snaps if you pull it too hard or your fabric is quite thick. If this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.

To attach the upper netting, we will align it 1 inch below the top of the Skirt lining. That way it will also overhang the hem by 1 inch like the lower netting.

To do this, repeat steps 6.5 to 6.7.

REGULAR UPPER NETTING OPTION – This layer is flat so you can continue to pin all the way across the Skirt lining to hold the netting in place. The netting and the lining are the same width so there shouldn’t be any gathering required. If you find one is bigger than the other though, an easy way to fix it is to fold the excess over discretely at the side seams. This is the lining of the Skirt, so you won’t see it in the finished garment. Stitch ¼ inch from the edge all the way around to attach the lining.

FULL UPPER NETTING OPTION – This option is gathered so continue on with steps 6.8 to 6.10 to gather and attach the upper netting to the Skirt.

Repeat step 6.3 to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of the Skirt lining.

Repeat to stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of the Skirt as well.

NOTE – Change your sewing machine back to a normal length stitch after you sew the gathering stitch so it’s ready for the following steps.

Fold the top of the Skirt in half vertically to find the center front and center back. Place pins in to mark these points.

Fold the bottom of the Bodice in half vertically to find the center front and center back. Place pins in to mark these points.

Keep the Bodice lining free, do not pin this.

Make sure that the Bodice is right side out. Turn the Skirt so it is wrong side out.

Place the Bodice upside down inside the Skirt.

Pin the Skirt to the Bodice at the side seams, center front and center back.

Make sure to keep the Bodice lining free. Tuck it up inside the Bodice so it doesn’t get caught in the pins.

Repeat steps 6.8 to 6.10 to gather the Skirt, stitch it to the Bodice and remove the gathering stitches.

Repeat steps 7.2 to 7.5 to attach the Skirt lining to the dress.

Make sure the lining is inside out when you slip it over the Skirt (if you have done netting it will be sandwiched between the Skirt and the lining). Keep the lining of the Bodice free.

Press seam allowance up towards the Bodice (away from the Skirt).

NOTE – Because you’ve already attached the Skirt, it can be tricky sometimes when you stitch the lining on not to accidentally get the Bodice or Skirt tucked into your new seam with the lining. What I recommend is to put the dress onto your sewing machine with the Bodice part facing upwards. That way you can check the Bodice is smooth and flattened away from your new seam as you sew, and you can use the previous seam line from the Skirt as a guide. Keep lifting up the Skirt to check nothing is caught as you stitch.

We are now going to attach the Bodice lining to the dress waistline.

Pin the folded hem of the Bodice lining down around the waistline, making sure to tuck the raw edges of the Skirt in so they are hidden.

You should be aiming to pin the hem of the Bodice lining approx. ⅛ inch below the stitching line where the Bodice joins the Skirt. This will cover the raw edges of the Skirt and make the Bodice nice and neat inside.

HAND STITCHING – The easiest way to stitch the Bodice lining down is to slip stitch it by hand. If you are happy to hand stitch, do this now and then skip to step 9.1.

MACHINE STITCHING – This is a slightly more difficult option to get neat however what helps is to make sure you pin from the outside of the dress along the seam line between the Bodice and the dress (this is so it’s easy to remove the pins as you sew in the next step). Do not stitch yet.

Keep looking inside the dress as you do this to make sure to tuck all the raw edges from the Skirt inside the Bodice, so they are hidden, and that you are catching the Bodice lining as you pin.

Take your time with pinning. It will make the next step much easier. I also tend to use a lot of pins.

Stitch on top of the seam line between the Bodice and the lining from the outside of the dress.

TIP – If your sewing machine has a section you can remove around the sewing machine plate do this before you put the dress on your machine. That way you can curl the Bodice easily under and around it.

ALTERNATIVE – The hem instructions are for a folded hem. If you have a sewing machine, serger or Overlocker that does a roll hem you could do this instead. Just remember the hem allowance on the Skirt and lining is a total of 1 inch so you’ll need to take this into consideration. If you have done the netting layer, this does not require hemming.

Fold the Skirt hem under by ½ inch and press.

Fold the hem under again by another ½ inch and press. Stitch close to the edge (approx. ⅛ inch from the edge).

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 with the lining hem.

If you are doing the Sash go to step 10. If you are doing the Waistband, go to step 11. If you are doing neither, you are finished.

If you are doing the Sash, follow this step:

If you used a contrast color for your Sash, change your thread now so it matches.

Place one tail piece right side to right side, on top of the Sash center. Stitch ⅝ inch from the edge. Press seam outwards towards tail.

Place the other tail piece right side to right side on the other end of the Sash center. Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Press seam outwards towards tail.

Fold the Sash lengthwise, right side to right side and pin together.

If you like a diagonal end on your Sash, cut both ends at 45 degrees by folding as shown and then cutting on the fold.

Stitch along the raw edges only from point to point. Leave a gap in your stitching of approx. 1 ½ inches in the center of the Sash to turn it later.

Snip the corners from your points. Cut only about 2/3 of the way into the seam allowance. Do not snip too close to the stitching or it will fray.

Turn and press.

TIP – Using a blunt instrument like a chopstick or point-turner to poke the points of the Sash all the way out before pressing.

Starting at the bottom of the Sash, top stitch ⅛ inch from the edge all the way around one tail, across the top of the Sash center, and all the way around the other tail. Do not stitch across the bottom of the Sash center section. We will do this later when we attach it to the dress front.

Pin the bottom center part of the Sash to the Bodice front. Line up the bottom of the Sash so it overhangs the seam where the Bodice meets the Skirt by a little bit (⅛ to 1/6 inch) to hide the seam.

Make sure you have the Sash so that the section you didn’t top stitch is on the bottom and the fold on the top. The side seams of the Sash should line up with the side seams of the Bodice.

If you used a different color thread for the Sash, change to this now.

Stitch the center of the Sash to the Bodice. Start stitching where your top stitching finished, and stitch straight across the bottom of the Sash to meet up with your top stitching on the other side.

The Sash should now be attached to the dress and should have top stitching around all edges of the Sash.

If you are doing the Waistband, follow this step:

Fold the Waistband lengthwise, right side to right side and pin together.

If you used a contrast color for your Waistband, change your thread to this now so it matches. 

Stitch along the raw edges. Leave the ends open.

Turn and press. 

Top stitch ⅛ inch from the edge all the way across the top of the Waistband. Do not stitch across the bottom of the Waistband. We will do this later when we attach it to the dress front.

Pin the Waistband to the waistline.

Make sure you have the Sash so that the section you didn’t top stitch is on the bottom, and the top stitched section is on the top. 

Line up the bottom of the Waistband so it covers the seamline between the Bodice and Skirt by a little bit (⅛ to 1/6 inch) to hide the seam.

Line up the raw edges of the Waistband so they are at the center back (or at your side seam if you prefer). Trim the ends of your Waistband so that they cross over by approximately 1 inch. Fold one end under and place it on top of the other end. Make sure to poke any visible thread or raw edges under the Waistband so you can’t see them.

Stitch the sides and bottom of the Waistband to the Bodice.

The Waistband should now be attached to the dress and should have top stitching around all edges of the Waistband.