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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
4
Children’s Ruffle Sleeve Tunic Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Delight in comfort and style with the brand-new children’s ruffle sleeve dress sewing pattern! The versatile and on-trend Ruffle Sleeve Tunic Dress can be made in both woven and knit fabrics and features three length and sleeve options.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size using the chest measurements. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes, then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line. Start from your chest, grading out or in, to your waist and hips.
- Height adjustments – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length, neckline and armscye for that height size bracket, keeping the width to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut all the pattern pieces and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen. Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- OPTIONAL Armscye binding – 1 ½ inches wide (finished width ⅜ inch wide) double fold bias binding approximately 1.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Frill – 1 ½ inches wide (finished width ⅜ inch wide) double fold bias binding approximately 1.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Bound neckline OPTION – 1 ½ inches wide (finished width ⅜ inch wide) single fold bias binding. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Facing OPTION – Iron on interfacing, approximately ½ a yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Short Sleeve OPTION – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Short Sleeve with Frill OPTION:
- Short Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Frill – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- TIP- If using directional fabric, you will need to change the Frill grainline to the opposite direction that is on the pattern piece. Some of the sizes will not fit across the width of the fabric. In this case, divide the Frill in half, add a ½ inch seam allowance to the center, then cut 2 mirror image pieces. Then join the pieces together using a French seam or sew and finish with a serger.
- Angel Sleeve OPTION – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- Narrow Neckband OPTION – Fabric cut 1
- NOTE – For Narrow Neckline, cut at the higher Neckline labeled ‘Cut here for Narrow Neckband, Binding and Facing’
- Wide Neckband OPTION – Fabric cut 1
- NOTE – For Wide Neckband, cut at the lower Neckline labeled ‘Cut here for Wide Neckband’
- Bound Neckline OPTION: Binding – Fabric cut 1 on the bias
- NOTE – For Narrow Neckband, cut at the higher Neckline labeled ‘Cut here for Narrow Neckband, Binding and Facing’
- Facing Neckline OPTION:
- Front Facing – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- Back Facing – Fabric cut 1, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 1
- NOTE – For Facing Neckline, cut at the higher Neckline labeled ‘Cut here for Narrow Neckband, Binding and Facing’
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewRuffle Sleeve Tunic Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful tunic dress is draped throughout the body and can be sewn in a woven or knit fabric. There are three lengths; top, tunic and dress. There are three sleeve options; short flutter, short flutter with gathered frill or angel sleeve which is gathered into the sleeve head. If using a woven fabric you can finish the neckline with either a facing, binding or a narrow or wide knit neckband. If using a knit fabric you can use the narrow or wide knit neckband.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 –18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 –24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to hem
Sleeve length
Top
Tunic
Dress
Short
Short with Frill
Angel sleeve underarm
Angel sleeve overarm
12 – 18 mos
22.6
24.1
30.3
11.3
14.7
15.7
2.7
5.5
8.0
6.5
18 – 24 mos
23.6
25.1
31.3
12.1
16.1
17.7
2.7
6.0
8.6
7.0
2 – 3 yrs
25.6
26.6
33.0
13.0
17.3
20.3
2.7
6.3
9.2
7.6
3 – 4 yrs
26.6
27.6
34.5
14.0
19.1
23.3
3.0
6.7
10.1
8.6
5 – 6 yrs
28.6
28.6
36.5
16.0
21.7
27.7
3.1
7.0
11.3
10.1
7 – 8 yrs
30.6
29.6
38.5
17.6
23.7
30.7
3.2
7.1
12.1
11.1
9 – 10 yrs
31.6
30.6
41.5
18.5
24.7
32.0
3.3
7.2
12.7
11.7
11 – 12 yrs
33.6
31.6
43.5
19.1
25.7
34.7
3.5
7.3
13.2
12.6
Fitting NotesThis pattern is a drapey and loose fitting.
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use any weight woven or knit fabric. The finer the fabric, the more drape it will have. Great woven options are cotton, linen, chambray, denim, and bubble crepe. Knit options are satin jersey (e.g., single brushed poly, double brushed poly), cotton lycra, sweater knit, tri blend, cupro, viscose/rayon elastane, rib knit and modal jersey.
OPTIONAL Knit Neckband – You will need a knit fabric with a minimum of 20% stretch. You can also use ribbing.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Dress
Short sleeve OPTION
Short sleeve with frill OPTION
Angel sleeve OPTION
Facing OPTION
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.25
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
7 – 8 yrs
0.75
1.00
1.75
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
1.25
2.00
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
1.50
2.25
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Dress
Short sleeve OPTION
Short sleeve with frill OPTION
Angel sleeve OPTION
Facing OPTION
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
7 – 8 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
1.00
1.25
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Sleeve OPTION Top
LengthTunic
LengthDress
LengthAngel
SleeveShort
SleeveOPTIONAL
Frill12 mos – 24 mos 4-6, 9-10,
16-174-6, 9-11,
16-184-6, 9-11,
16-186-7 20-21 14-15 2 – 3 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-184-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-11,
16-186-8 20-21 14-15 4 – 4 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-12,
16-196-8 20-21 14-15 5 – 6 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-12,
16-192-6, 9-12,
16-196-8 20-21 14-15 7 – 12 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-12,
16-192-6, 9-13,
16-206-8 20-21 14-15 Neckband OPTION Narrow Bound Wide Facing 12 mos – 12 yrs 16-18 16-18 16-18 14-15, 18-19 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Sleeve OPTION Top
LengthTunic
LengthDress
LengthAngel
SleeveShort
SleeveOPTIONAL
Frill12 mos- 24
mos4-6, 9-11,
16-184-6, 9-11,
16-184-6, 9-11,
16-186-8 20-21 14-15 2–4 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-184-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-12,
16-196-8 20-21 14-15 5-6 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-12,
16-192-6, 9-12,
16-196-8 20-21 14-15 7–12 yrs 4-6, 9-11,
16-183-6, 9-12,
16-192-6, 9-13,
16-206-8 20-21 14-15 Neckband OPTION Narrow Bound Wide Facing 12 mos – 12 yrs 16-18 16-18 16-18 14-15, 18-20 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
1 ½ inches wide Binding
OPTIONAL Sleeve frill
(cut 2)
OPTIONAL Wide neckband (Knit fabric cut 1)
OPTIONAL Narrow neckband (Knit fabric cut 1)
Neck (cut 1 on bias)
Armscye (cut 2 on bias)
OPTIONAL Sleeve frill
(cut 2 on bias)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Length
Length
Length
12 – 18 mos
3.3
19.3
2.5
13.2
2.0
11.1
16.7
10.0
8.0
18 – 24 mos
3.7
21.0
2.5
13.4
2.0
11.3
17.0
10.6
8.3
2 – 3 yrs
4.1
22.5
2.5
13.6
2.0
11.5
17.2
11.5
9.2
3 – 4 yrs
4.5
24.0
2.5
14.1
2.0
11.9
17.7
12.2
10.0
5 – 6 yrs
4.5
25.6
2.5
14.4
2.0
12.4
18.3
13.0
10.6
7 – 8 yrs
4.5
27.2
2.5
15.1
2.0
12.8
19.0
13.7
11.6
9 – 10 yrs
4.5
28.0
2.5
15.3
2.0
13.2
19.5
14.2
12.0
11 – 12 yrs
4.5
29.5
2.5
15.8
2.0
13.5
20.0
15.0
12.6
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. for woven fabric, it is the edge you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
NOTE – The Frill is cut parallel to the grainline. To cut the fabric on the fold, fold the raw edge of the fabric over perpendicular to the selvage edge. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be perpendicular to the two edges of the fabric that are finished.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to wrong sides of pieces.
- OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – If you are not using store bought binding, follow our free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create your double fold bias binding.
- OPTIONAL STAYSTITCHING – Stay stitch the Front and Back necklines.
- SHOULDERS – Sew Front and Back pieces together using a French seam.
- SIDE SEAMS – Sew the side seams together using a French seam.
- SHORT SLEEVE OPTION – Stitch the underarm seam on the Short Sleeve using a French seam. Find and mark center of the Top of the Short Sleeve. Place sleeve onto the armscye wrong sides together. Stitch Short Sleeve onto armscye using a French seam. Fold Sleeve raw edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. Repeat for second sleeve.
- OPTIONAL FRILL – Stitch short edges of the Frill using a French seam. Fold Sleeve raw edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. Stitch gathering stitch along raw edge of the Frill. Find and mark the quarter points on the Frill and Sleeve. Match the Frill and Short Sleeve right sides together at the quarter points. Gather the Frill to match the Sleeve. Stitch. Finish edge with bias tape. Repeat for second sleeve.
- ANGEL SLEEVE OPTION – Stitch the underarm seam using a French seam. Stitch gathering stitches. Find and mark the center of the Sleeve head. Place the Sleeve onto the Bodice right sides together matching the center of the Sleeve head to the shoulder seam. Gather the Sleeve. Pin. Stitch. Fold Sleeve raw edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. Repeat for second sleeve.
- ARMSCYE BINDING – Bind the edges of the armscyes.
- BOUND NECKLINE OPTION – Bind the neckline.
- FACING NECKLINE OPTION – Stitch the Front and Back Facing shoulder seams using a French seam. Fold Facing bottom edge ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. Fold the Facing and Bodice neckline in half vertically, mark the center front and center back. Match the Bodice and Facing right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Trim seam allowance. Turn Facing to wrong side. Press. Understitch the neckline. Pin Facing in place along shoulder seams. ‘Stitch in the ditch’ on shoulder seams.
- NECKBAND OPTION – Fold Neckband in half, wrong sides together. Press. Open Neckband, fold right sides together with short edges together. Pin. Stitch. Press. Fold Neckband wrong sides together. Find and mark quarter points. Match Neckband and neckline right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Press. OPTIONAL Topstitch.
- HEM – Fold ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2OPTIONAL Interfacing
If you are sewing the Facing OPTION, apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Front and Back Neck Facing pieces, using the manufacturer’s instructions.
0.3OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the armscye and the OPTIONAL Frill.
You will need single fold binding for the bound neckline OPTION.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
0.4OPTIONAL Stay Stitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. Otherwise, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the facing won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.
Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment. Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
If you are using a lightweight woven or a fabric that will fray easily, we recommend staystitching the Front and Back along the neckline.
If you are finishing the neckline with the Facing OPTION, staystitch the top edge of the Front and Back Facings, in the direction of the arrows.
NOTE – If you have added OPTIONAL Interfacing to your Facing pieces, it may not be necessary to staystitch these pieces.
1 . Shoulders1.0ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Bodice pieces right sides together. Pin the shoulders. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Back. Skip to step 2.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Place Front and Back pieces right sides together. Pin the shoulders. Stitch shoulders with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press towards the back.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch the shoulders together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
1.1Place the Front and Back pieces wrong sides together. Pin the shoulders.
1.2Stitch both shoulders using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.3Trim your seam allowance in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. Try to trim your seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out.
1.4Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
1.5Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
1.6Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
Press the seams towards the Back.
2 . Side Seams2.0ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back bodice pieces right sides together. Pin the sides. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Back. Then skip to step 3 for either Short Sleeve OPTION, or to step 5 for the Angel Sleeve OPTION.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Place the Front and Back right sides together. Stitch with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam allowance towards the Back. Then skip to step 3 for either Short Sleeve OPTION, or to step 5 for the Angel Sleeve OPTION.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1You are going to stitch the side seams using a French seam as you did in steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
If you are sewing the Short Sleeve with Frill OPTION or just the Short Sleeve, follow below.
If you are sewing the Angel Sleeve OPTION, skip to step 4.
3 . Short Sleeve OPTION3.0NOTE – This step is the same for either Short Sleeve OPTION.
ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the underarm seam of the Short Sleeve right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat on the other Sleeve. Matching the center of the Sleeve head and the shoulder seam and the underarm seam with the side seam, pin the Sleeve into the armscye right sides together then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Short Sleeve OPTION without the Frill: make a double hem (fold ¼ inch and then another ¼ inch) and topstitch with ⅛ seam allowance. Then skip to step 6 for the Armscye Binding, or step 7 for the Bound Neckline OPTION, Step 8 for the Facing Neckline OPTION, or Step 9 for the Neckband OPTION.
Short Sleeve OPTION with the Frill: skip to step 4 for the OPTIONAL Frill.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Pin the underarm seam of the Short Sleeve right sides together. Stitch with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat on the other Sleeve. Matching the center of the Sleeve head and the shoulder seam and the underarm seam with the side seam, pin the Sleeve into the armscye right sides together the stitch with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Short Sleeve OPTION without the Frill: make a double hem (fold ¼ inch and then another ¼ inch) and using a stretch stitch, topstitch with ⅛ seam allowance. Then skip to step 6 for the Armscye Binding.
Short Sleeve OPTION with the Frill: skip to step 4 for the OPTIONAL Frill.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Stitch the underarm seam of the Short Sleeve using a French seam as you did in steps 1.1. to 1.6.
Start with pinning the Short Sleeve piece at the underarm seam wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
3.2Find and mark the center of the top of the Short Sleeve.
3.3Turn the Bodice wrong side out. Place the Short Sleeve onto the armscye, wrong sides together, matching the center of the Short Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin.
3.4Stitch the armscye using a French seam as you did in steps 1.1. to 1.6.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 for the second Short Sleeve.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Frill, skip to step 4. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Frill, follow below.
3.5Fold the Sleeve raw edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
3.6Fold another ¼ inch and press again.
3.7Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 on the second Short Sleeve.
Skip to step 7.
4 . OPTIONAL Frill4.0ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the Frill right sides together. Serge Frill short ends right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Create a double hem on the bottom edge of Frill (fold ¼ inch and another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and topstitch with ⅛ inch seam allowance). Make gathering stitches on the other side of the Frill (see in steps 4.3 to 4.5). Serge Frill to Sleeve. Skip to step 6.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Pin the Frill right sides together. Stitch the Frill short ends right sides together with a stretch stitch and a ½ inch seam allowance. Create a double hem on the bottom edge of the Frill (fold ¼ inch and another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and topstitch with ⅛ inch seam allowance). Make gathering stitches on the other side of the Frill (see in steps 4.3 to 4.5). Stitch the Frill to the Sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 4.7.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1You are going to stitch the short sides of the Frill using a French seam as you did in steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
4.2Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 to hem the Frill.
4.3You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the raw edge of the Frill. Mark ⅛ inch from the side seam on either side. You will be stitching in between these markings.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Frill and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all the leftover bobbin threads!
4.4Find and mark the quarter points of the Frill and the Sleeve.
4.5Turn the Bodice right side out. Place the Frill onto the Short Sleeve, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather the Frill in between the quarter points until the width of the Frill matches the width of the bottom of the Short Sleeve. Gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly.
4.6Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.7To finish the seam, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.
4.8Place the right side of your binding onto the wrong side of the Frill, matching the fold line of the binding to the seam. Pin.
Continue pinning the bias tape all the way along the seam line of the Frill.
4.9Overlap the end of the binding by about ½ inch. Pin.
Trim the excess bias tape.
4.10Stitch along the fold on the binding. Your stitching should be directly on top of the Frill seam.
4.11Fold the binding over the seam, enclosing all raw edges. Pin.
4.12Edge stitch along the binding, making sure not to catch the Short Sleeve under your stitches.
4.13Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the frill.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.13 for the second Frill.
Skip to step 6.
5 . Angel Sleeve OPTION5.0ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Pin the underarm seam of the Angel Sleeve right sides together. Serge the underarm seam of the Sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance, gather the Sleeve (see in steps 5.2 to 5.4), serge sleeve into armscye right sides together. Create a double hem (fold ¼ inch and another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance). Skip to step 6.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Pin the underarm seam of the Angel Sleeve right sides together. Using a stretch stitch, stitch the underarm seam of the Sleeve using a ½ inch seam allowance, gather the Sleeve (see in steps 5.2 to 5.4), using a stretch stitch to stitch the sleeve into armscye right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Create a double hem (fold ¼ inch and another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and topstitch using a stretch stitch and a ⅛ inch seam allowance). Skip to step 6.
WOVEN FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1Stitch the underarm seam of Angel Sleeve using a French seam as you did in steps 1.1. to 1.6.
Start with pinning the Angel Sleeve piece at the underarm seam wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
5.2You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top edge of the Angel Sleeve between the markings.
Set your sewing machine to a gathering stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.
Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.
Take the Angel Sleeve and stitch the first row of gathering stitches close to the edge of the fabric (approximately ⅛ inch). Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all the leftover bobbin threads!
5.3Find and mark the center of the Sleeve head.
5.4Place the Angel Sleeve onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching the center of the Angel Sleeve to the shoulder seam, and the underarm seam to the side seam. Pin.
Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather in between the pattern markings. Gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. Pin.
5.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
5.6Fold the Angel Sleeve raw edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
5.7Fold another ¼ inch and press again.
5.8Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.8 for the second Angel Sleeve.
6 . Armscye Binding6.0This step is the same for any Sleeve OPTION. The images show the Angel Sleeve; however, the steps are the same.
NOTE – This step is for seams that have not been sewn with a French seam.
6.1To finish the seam, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.
6.2Place the right side of your binding onto the wrong side of the armscye seam, matching the fold line of the binding to the seam. Pin.
TIP – Do not start at the underarm seam. There are a few layers at this point which can create bulk and be uncomfortable when wearing.
NOTE – Don’t align the edge of the binding with the raw edge of the armscye. Keep the fold of the bias tape aligned with the seam.
Continue pinning the binding all the way along the seam line.
6.3Overlap the end of the binding by about ½ inch.
Pin.Trim the excess bias tape.
6.4Stitch along the fold on the binding. Your stitching should be directly on top of the armscye seam.
6.5Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.
6.6Edge stitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the Sleeve under your stitches.
Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the Sleeve.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.13 for the second armscye.
7 . Bound Neckline OPTION7.0If you are sewing a woven garment and are binding the neckline, follow below. If you are adding a facing, skip to step 8. If you are adding a Knit Neckband (wide or narrow), skip to step 9.
If you are using store bought binding or have made your own, skip to step 7.3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1Fold ¼ inch of the Binding’s short edge to the wrong side and press.
7.2Fold the Binding in half lengthwise. Press.
7.3Lay the Back Bodice right side up. Find and mark the center of the back neckline. Place the folded binding edge from step 7.1 onto the neckline, right sides together, starting at the center back, matching raw edges. Pin.
7.4Pin along the whole neckline, overlapping the end of the Binding by about ½ inch.
Trim the excess binding.
7.5Stitch the Binding using a ½ inch seam allowance.
7.6Trim the Bodice seam allowance. It should be a bit smaller than ¼ inch so it can be hidden under the Binding.
7.7Fold the Binding over the seam allowance to the wrong side of the garment. Pin and press.
TIP – Check that the Binding cannot be seen from the right side of the Bodice.
7.8Edge stitch the Binding to the neckline about ⅛ inch from the edge of the Binding.
The Binding should now be totally attached to the neckline on both sides and the raw edges all enclosed.
Press.
Skip to step 10.
8 . Facing Neckline OPTION8.0If you are adding a facing, follow below. If you are adding a Knit Neckband (wide or narrow), skip to step 9.
ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Front. Create a double hem ( fold ¼ inch and another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance). Fold the Facing and Bodice neckline in half vertically, mark the center front and center back. Align the Bodice and Facing right sides together, matching the quarter points. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 8.13.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Place Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together. Stitch with a stretch stitch and a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the Front. Create a double hem (fold ¼ inch and another ¼ inch towards the wrong side and with a stretch stitch, topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance). Fold the Facing and Bodice neckline in half vertically, mark the center front and center back. Align the Bodice and Facing right sides together, matching the quarter points. Pin. Stitch with a stretch stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 8.13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
8.1You are going to stitch the shoulder seams of the Front and Back Facing together using a French seam as you did in steps 1.1 to 1.6.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again with right sides together at ¼ inch.
Press the seam allowance towards the front. This means the Facing and Bodice shoulder seams will be pointing in different directions in the finished garment to reduce bulk.
8.2If you are finishing the Facing edge, skip to step 8.3.
If you have added OPTIONAL Interfacing, you could leave the bottom edge raw. Trim the edge by ½ inch to neaten the edges. This will stop the fabric from fraying or stretching. Then skip to step 8.7.
NOTE – If you are using a lighter weight fabric a raw bottom edge will be less visible from the exterior of the garment. It does however mean the bottom edge will be raw. For most fabrics, the interfacing will stop the edge from fraying while wearing and washing. However, if the fabric used does fray, even with the interfacing, we would recommend finishing the edge. Skip to step 8.3.
Alternatively, you can use an overlocking or zigzag stitch to finish the raw edges instead, then skip to step 8.7. Overlocking or zigzagging the edges won’t hide the raw edges, however on very flimsy fabrics it may be easier.
8.3The outer curved edge can be tricky to turn under neatly in a small amount. To help with this, baste a line of stitches ¼ inch from the edge all the way around the Facing.
Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – If you prefer, you can turn the edges under less (⅛ inch for example) twice and top stitch. This will make it more like a rolled hem and much smaller.
8.4Using the basting stitches as a guide, fold the Facing bottom edge ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
TIP – If this is difficult, pin the fabric using steel headed dressmaking pins. These can be pressed over with the iron. Do not ‘iron’ by moving the iron back and forth as you may scratch your iron. But instead cover the pins with a pressing cloth (or thin tea towel) and just press the iron downwards to get the fold where you want it. Then remove the pins.
8.5Fold another ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
8.6Top stitch close to the folded edge (⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric).
8.7Press the bottom edge.
8.8Fold the Facing and the Bodice neckline in half vertically to mark the center front and center back.
8.9Lay the Bodice right side up. Place the Facing right sides together, matching the seams of the Facing to the shoulder seams and the center front and back. Pin.
Make sure the shoulder seams of the Facing and Bodice are pointing in different directions to reduce bulk. Pin these in place so they do not move when you stitch in the next step.
8.10Continue pinning the rest of the Facing to the Bodice around the neck opening.
TIP – If the neck hole has stretched slightly and no longer fits the Facing as well, try steaming it before pinning the Facing to it. If this helps but doesn’t quite resolve it, try pinning the Facing to the neckline by dividing each quarter in half evenly and pin. Then divide in half again and pin again, until it is evenly pinned all the way around the Facing. Use a lot of pins to get it even and smooth.
8.11Stitch ½ inch from the edge.
8.12Trim the seam allowance to less than half the width, approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch.
8.13Turn the Facing to the wrong side of the Bodice and press.
Roll the seam so that the seam is not exactly in the center of the fold, but more towards the inside of the garment. This way the Facing will not be seen in the finished garment.
8.14Understitch the neckline seam allowance to the Facing.
NOTE – If you haven’t done this before, this just means to stitch the seam allowance to the Facing approximately ⅛ to ¼ inch from where the Facing and Bodice piece join. The seam allowance will help hold the facing inside the garment and stop it from flipping out while wearing it. Understitching helps the seam lay nicely and will not be visible from the right side of the bodice.
8.15To keep the Facing in place and make sure it doesn’t pop out while being worn, pin the Facing shoulder seams to the Bodice shoulder seams on both sides.
8.16You will then “stitch in the ditch” so that there isn’t any visible stitching. Stitch directly along the shoulder seam line from the right side.
Alternatively, you can hand sew the Facing to the wrong side of the Bodice.
9 . Neckband OPTION9.0This step is the same for the Wide or Narrow OPTION.
9.1Fold the Neckband in half, with the wrong sides together and press.
9.2Open out the Neckband. Fold it right sides together matching the short edges. Pin.
9.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.4Press open the seam allowance if you are using a stretch stitch. Press the seam allowance to the side if you have serged.
TIP – Using a stretch stitch and pressing the seam allowance open will allow your Neckband to lay flat.
9.5Refold the Neckband. Find and mark the quarter points of the raw edge of the Neckband and the Bodice neckline.
9.6Working from the right side of the neckline, place the Neckband matching raw edges. Align the seam of the Neckband with the center back of the neckline. Pin together. Match the rest of the quarter points and pin.
9.7Continue pinning, stretching the Neckband slightly to match the neckline.
9.8Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – To prevent waviness, stretch only the Neckband and not the neckline.
9.9Press the seam allowance down, toward the Bodice.
9.10OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the neckline with a twin needle, coverstitch, or stretch stitch.
10 . Hem10.0This step is the same for all OPTIONS.
ANY FABRIC ON A SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the bottom of the garment using a ½ inch seam allowance. Fold the hem a ½ inch towards the wrong side and topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance from the raw edge.
KNIT FABRIC ON A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – With a stretch stitch, stitch the bottom of the garment using a ½ inch seam allowance. Fold the hem a ½ inch towards the wrong side and using a stretch stitch, topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance from the raw edge.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
10.1Zigzag the bottom of your garment to finish the raw edge.
10.2Fold ½ inch towards the wrong side.
10.3Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance from the raw edge.
Your Ruffle Sleeve Tunic Dress is finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Ruffle Sleeve Tunic Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpruffletunic.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewRuffle Sleeve Tunic Dress
Difficulty Level = Beginner
This beautiful tunic dress is draped throughout the body and can be sewn in a woven or knit fabric. There are three lengths; top, tunic and dress. There are three sleeve options; short flutter, short flutter with gathered frill or angel sleeve which is gathered into the sleeve head. If using a woven fabric you can finish the neckline with either a facing, binding or a narrow or wide knit neckband. If using a knit fabric you can use the narrow or wide knit neckband.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 –18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 –24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Center back to hem
Sleeve length
Top
Tunic
Dress
Short
Short with Frill
Angel sleeve underarm
Angel sleeve overarm
12 – 18 mos
22.6
24.1
30.3
11.3
14.7
15.7
2.7
5.5
8.0
6.5
18 – 24 mos
23.6
25.1
31.3
12.1
16.1
17.7
2.7
6.0
8.6
7.0
2 – 3 yrs
25.6
26.6
33.0
13.0
17.3
20.3
2.7
6.3
9.2
7.6
3 – 4 yrs
26.6
27.6
34.5
14.0
19.1
23.3
3.0
6.7
10.1
8.6
5 – 6 yrs
28.6
28.6
36.5
16.0
21.7
27.7
3.1
7.0
11.3
10.1
7 – 8 yrs
30.6
29.6
38.5
17.6
23.7
30.7
3.2
7.1
12.1
11.1
9 – 10 yrs
31.6
30.6
41.5
18.5
24.7
32.0
3.3
7.2
12.7
11.7
11 – 12 yrs
33.6
31.6
43.5
19.1
25.7
34.7
3.5
7.3
13.2
12.6
Materials and ToolsFabric – You can use any weight woven or knit fabric. The finer the fabric, the more drape it will have. Great woven options are cotton, linen, chambray, denim, and bubble crepe. Knit options are satin jersey (e.g., single brushed poly, double brushed poly), cotton lycra, sweater knit, tri blend, cupro, viscose/rayon elastane, rib knit and modal jersey.
OPTIONAL Knit Neckband – You will need a knit fabric with a minimum of 20% stretch. You can also use ribbing.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Dress
Short sleeve OPTION
Short sleeve with frill OPTION
Angel sleeve OPTION
Facing OPTION
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.25
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
7 – 8 yrs
0.75
1.00
1.75
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
1.25
2.00
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
1.50
2.25
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Tunic
Dress
Short sleeve OPTION
Short sleeve with frill OPTION
Angel sleeve OPTION
Facing OPTION
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
0.75
0.50
0.25
7 – 8 yrs
0.75
0.75
1.00
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
1.00
1.00
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
1.00
1.25
0.25
1.00
0.50
0.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL Armscye binding – 1 ½ inches wide (finished width ⅜ inch wide) double fold bias binding approximately 1.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Frill – 1 ½ inches wide (finished width ⅜ inch wide) double fold bias binding approximately 1.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Bound neckline OPTION – 1 ½ inches wide (finished width ⅜ inch wide) single fold bias binding. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Facing OPTION – Iron on interfacing, approximately ½ a yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.