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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
1
Children’s Sara Sweater
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
This comfortable yet stylish sweater pattern is loose fitting with a scooped high collar and off-set button placket. It has dropped shoulders, billowy sleeves, and a deep hem with side slits as well as optional welt pockets.
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- +Preparation
- Measure, measure, measure – Please measure your model and check their measurements against BOTH the size chart and the finished garment measurements. Sizes vary country to country and the sizing may match what you’re expecting, or it may not. To ensure you get the best fit, please use the size you fall into on our size chart, rather than the size you’ve worn in ready to wear clothing.
- Picking your size – Take fresh measurements for your model’s chest, waist, hips and height and compare to the measurements chart above. When you print, make sure you’re including the layers for each of these sizes.
- Grading – Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different, so we have a few suggestions to help achieve a great fitting garment:
- If your model falls between sizes, you will start with the size bracket with the correct chest measurement. This will give a better upper body fit.
- If your child falls into different size brackets for chest and waist, draw a smooth curve from the chest out to the correct size bracket for the waistline.
- If your child falls into a different size for height, use the bodice length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together so the armhole height, top and bottom of the bodice and skirt pieces use the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Sleeve fit –
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. As the sleeve is not tight fitting, it is unlikely you will need to make any adjustments. Once you have made your muslin, if you feel you need to adjust the bicep, follow this tutorial.
- Length – The blouson sleeve is gathered into the cuff which means the finished measurement is much longer than when the sleeve is straight. This is because the gathered sleeve has more fullness where it joins into the cuff. Measure from the top of your shoulder to your wrist with your arm slightly bent. Add/remove length at the bottom of the sleeve before it meets the cuff.
- Cuff width – Measure 1.5 inches up from your wrist. Measure around your arm at this point. Check this measurement against the finished measurement for the width of the cuff. You can add/remove the difference across the top edge of the cuff, bringing in/adding more to the sides of the cuff.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this sweater:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the following and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen: Front, Back and Sleeves. Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 2x ½ inch wide Buttons
- A small piece of lightweight Interfacing – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL Iron-on Fusible Tape – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear Elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Front – Cut 1
- Back – Cut 1 on fold
- Sleeve – Cut 2
- Sleeve Cuff – Cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket – Cut 2
- OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket Bag – Cut 4 (2x mirror image)
- Neckband – Cut 1 on fold
- Top Placket – Fabric cut 2, Interfacing cut 2
- Bottom Placket – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold
- Front Interfacing – Cut 1
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewSara Sweater
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
The Sara Sweater is loose-fitting with a scooped high collar and an off-set buttoned placket. The dropped shoulders give it a relaxed fit while the billowy sleeves, which are gathered into the cuffs, create a chic look. The functional welt pockets and deep hem with side slits are both optional but gives it those beautiful finishes.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Center back length
Sleeve length
Bicep
Cuff width
12 – 18 mos
23.5
23.0
22.7
13.5
11.5
7.0
4.7
18 – 24 mos
24.5
24.0
23.7
14.5
12.5
7.6
4.9
2 – 3 yrs
26.5
26.0
25.5
15.5
13.5
8.2
5.1
3 – 4 yrs
27.5
27.2
27.0
16.5
14.5
9.0
5.5
5 – 6 yrs
29.5
29.2
29.0
18.5
16.2
9.7
5.9
7 – 8 yrs
31.5
31.2
31.0
20.0
17.7
10.5
6.3
9 – 10 yrs
32.5
3.5
34.0
21.0
19.2
11.2
6.7
11 – 12 yrs
34.5
35.5
36.0
21.5
21.0
12.0
7.3
Fitting NotesThe Sara Sweater is loose fitting with a dropped shoulder for a relaxed fit. The billowy sleeves gathered at the cuff for a comfortable fit.
Materials and ToolsThe fabric you choose needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are 2-way stretch fabric such as sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry or stretch velour. Do not use a woven fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sweater
12 – 18 mos
0.75
18 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 4 yrs
1.00
5 – 8 yrs
1.25
9 – 12 yrs
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sweater
12 – 24 mos
0.75
2 – 4 yrs
0.75
5 – 10 yrs
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Sweater OPTIONAL
Single welt
pocket12 mos – 12 yrs 2-15 16 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Sweater OPTIONAL
Single welt
pocket12 mos – 18 mos 2-10, 12-14 15 18 mos – 12 yrs 2-14 15 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Single Welt Pocket (Cut 2)
Front Interfacing (Cut 1)
Neckband
(Cut 1)Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
18.0
18 – 24 mos
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
18.4
2 – 3 yrs
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
19.0
3 – 4 yrs
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
19.5
5 – 6 yrs
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
20.0
7 – 8 yrs
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
20.6
9 – 10 yrs
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
21.5
11 – 12 yrs
4.0
2.5
2.0
4.0
5.0
22.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to Top and Bottom Placket pieces, and along the Placket markings on the wrong side of the Front.
- PLACKET CUT LINES – Cut the Placket cut line on the Front and the horizontal cut line.
- PLACKET – Stitch the Top Plackets right sides together. Press seam open. Press memory hem on both long edges. Repeat memory hems with Bottom Placket. Press in half. Stitch Bottom Placket to pattern marking, right side to wrong side of Front. Repeat with Top Placket. Trim the Front on each side. Move the Bottom Placket to right side of Front. Press seam. Fold in half, matching memory hems. Stitch down raw edge and across the bottom raw edge. Clip, turn and press. Topstitch Bottom Placket to Front. Move the Bottom Placket to right side of Front. Move Bottom Placket to wrong side of Front. Repeat for Top Placket. Align Plackets, stitch 1.5 by 1-inch rectangle across bottom of Top Placket.
- OPTIONAL SINGLE WELT POCKETS – Fold Single Welt Pocket in half right sides together, stitch short ends, turn out. Pin to Center Front Left pocket placement line, stitch. Lay Single Welt Pocket Bag piece right side down, butt against the Single Welt Pocket, stitch. Lay the second Single Welt Pocket Bag on top of the Welt Pocket, pin, stitch. Turn Center Front Left piece over, stitch at the end of the short edges of the welt pocket stitching making a rectangle. Cut the pocket open. Pull the pocket pieces through the hole. Match pocket bags, pin, stitch, press.
- SHOULDER SEAMS – Stitch Front and Back at the shoulder seams, right sides together. Press.
- NECKBAND – Fold one long raw edge under and press. Open pressed folds back out. Fold Neckband in half lengthways, right sides together. Press. Stitch both short sides. Place Neckband over the neckline, right sides together, matching the seams of the Top Placket and the Neckband. Stitch down the Neckband and across the raw edge stopping just past the Top Placket. Repeat for the other side over the Bottom Placket. Stitch one side of Neckband to neckline. Turn out and stitch in the ditch the other side.
- FASTENINGS – Stitch buttonholes and buttons.
- SLEEVES – Stitch Sleeve to Shirt, right sides together. Press.
- SIDE SEAM – Stitch Front to Back, right sides together, along side seams. Repeat on the other side.
- SLEEVE CUFF – Fold a Sleeve Cuff in half lengthways, right sides together, matching the short sides. Stitch and press. Match quarter points of Cuff and Sleeve and stitch. Press seam. Repeat for other Sleeve Cuff and Sleeve.
- SIDE SPLIT HEM – Fold the hem ½ inch to wrong side on the Front and Back. Press. Starting on one side of the Front, fold the hem to the right side, matching the folded edge of the hem to the pattern marking. Stitch. Repeat on the Back hem on that side. Clip corners. Turn corners right side out. Fold the raw edges of the side split over the side seam. Pin and press. Repeat for the side split hem on the other side of the Front and Back. Fold the rest of the hem up to the wrong side, keeping the memory hem inside. Press and topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings, labels, notches, button, and buttonhole placements to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply the Front Interfacing centered along the Placket cut line markings on the wrong side of the Front.
Apply the Placket interfacing to the wrong side of both the Top and Bottom Placket pieces.
This will give structure to the Placket and prevent the buttons or snaps from pulling or tearing when buttoning or unbuttoning them.
If you are adding the OPTIONAL Single Welt Pockets, apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Front piece at the pocket placement markings. Remember to transfer the pocket marking to the interfacing.
0.3Placket Cut Lines
Once you have applied interfacing to the wrong side of the Front, cut along the vertical cut line.
Snip along the horizontal cut line. You will be left with just shy of ⅜ inch on either side of this cut line for attaching the Placket.
1 . Placket1.0NOTE – It is very important to pay close attention to the seam allowances and to be as precise as possible when stitching the entire Placket. Along with precision in the seam allowances, following the instructions for pressing will help finish the Placket as intended.
1.1Place the two Top Placket pieces right sides together. Pin the side that is not going to be attached to the Front.
NOTE – The images shown here are the ladies pattern pieces which are shaped slightly differently. However, the steps are the same.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3STITCHED SEAM: Press the seam allowance open.
SERGED SEAM: Press the seam towards the back. This will be the side that is attached to the wrong side of the Front in step 1.9.
Fold wrong sides together and press.
1.4Open up the Top Placket, wrong sides facing up. Fold each raw long edge ⅜ inch to the wrong side and press, creating a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press a seam, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. Some fabrics hold a memory hem better than others. If your fabric doesn’t hold it well, that is ok. It is still helpful to do this now.
1.5Fold the Bottom Placket in half, wrong sides together. Press along the fold.
1.6Open up the Bottom Placket, wrong sides facing up. Fold each raw long edge ⅜ inch to the wrong side and press, creating a memory hem.
NOTE – When both Plackets are folded closed, they should line up evenly as shown.
1.7Lay the Front wrong side facing up. Place the Bottom Placket right side facing down, onto the left side of the marked rectangle.
Open the memory hem. Match the pressed line to the pattern marking. Pin together, stopping ¼ inch above the horizontal cut line.
1.8Stitch the Bottom Placket using ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.9Repeat steps 1.7 to 1.8 attaching the Top Placket to the Front right sides together.
1.10Trim the Front along the seam of the Placket on each side. You are only trimming the Front not the Placket seam allowance.
1.11Flip the Bottom Placket through the cut to the right side of the Front Bodice.
Press the memory hem made in step 1.6 towards the Bottom Placket.
1.12With the Front Bodice out the way, fold the Bottom Placket in half right sides together, keeping the bottom edge free from the Front Bodice.
Match up the memory hems and corners. Pin.
1.13Open the memory hem. Starting ¼ inch below the horizontal cut line, stitch down the memory hem using ⅜ inch seam allowance, to the corner, pivot and continue stitching ⅜ inch towards the folded edge.
NOTE – The picture here is turned upside down to show the stitching below the Placket.
1.14Clip the corners. Be careful not to cut through the stitching.
1.15Turn the Bottom Placket right side out, pushing out the corners. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so they are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
1.16On the right side of the Front pin the remaining memory hem of the Bottom Placket to the Front.
NOTE – Check that the front of the Bottom Placket is covering the stitches on the back from step 1.8.
1.17Carefully topstitch the Bottom Placket, using a ⅛ inch seam allowance, along the memory hem edge, stopping above the horizontal cut line.
NOTE – Make sure the bottom of the Bottom Placket is not sewn to the Front and that it is still separate.
Move the Bottom Placket to the wrong side of the Front, through the Placket cut line.
1.18Repeat steps 1.11 to 1.17 for the Top Placket.
NOTE – Be careful not to stitch through the Bottom Placket.
NOTE – You are only stitching to the stitch lines from step 1.9.
1.19Overlap the Top Placket over the Bottom Placket. Pin the bottom edge of the Top Placket in place.
TIP – If you have buckling/pinching at the horizontal cut line once the Plackets are overlapped, snip approximately 1 millimeter to prevent the buckling/pinching and allow the fabric to lay flat.
TIP – Use iron-on fusible tape to fuse the Placket to the Front ONLY. This will keep it in place and make it easier to work with. Do not fuse the Top Placket to the Bottom Placket.
NOTE – You are pinning through all layers of the Plackets and Shirt to secure all layers together.
1.20Stitch a 0.75 wide by 1 inch high rectangle on the bottom edge of the Top Placket.
TIP – Add additional stitching, stitching diagonally across the rectangle to create an X shape.
NOTE – Check that the Top and Bottom Plackets are aligned correctly as the stitching go through both.
2 . OPTIONAL Single Welt Pockets2.0If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Single Welt Pockets, skip to step 3. Otherwise, follow the steps below.
2.1Fold the Single Welt Pocket in half at the fold line, right sides together. Pin each short side.
2.2Serge or stitch using ⅜ inch seam allowance.
If you have stitched the seam, follow step 2.3. If you have serged, skip to step 2.4
2.3Trim the seam allowances and clip the corners to reduce bulk. Be careful not to clip into the stitching.
2.4Turn the Single Welt Pocket right sides out, pushing out the corners. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so they are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch if desired.
2.5OPTIONAL – Draw a line ⅜ inch from the raw edge.
NOTE – If your fabric has a directional print, draw the line on the opposite side.
2.6Center the Single Welt Pocket onto the right side of the Front, matching the raw edge to the pocket placement. Pin.
NOTE – The line drawn in step 2.5 will be facing up.
NOTE – It may look odd, but the Welt Pocket will be flipped up and onto the pattern markings later.
2.7Stitch along the ⅜ inch marked line.
2.8Place a Single Welt Pocket Bag onto the Front, right sides facing, matching the straight edge to the raw edge of the Single Welt Pocket.
NOTE – This may seem odd, but it is correct. The Single Welt Pocket Bag will be turned to the wrong side of the Front in the next steps.
2.9Mark a line ⅜ inch from the straight edge of the Single Welt Pocket Bag. The line should be the same length and be parallel to the Single Welt Pocket. Do not make it the full length of the Single Welt Pocket Bag.
Pin in place.
2.10Stitch along the ⅜ inch marked line.
NOTE – Do not stitch into the seam allowance of the Single Welt Pocket Bag, or past the length of the Single Welt Pocket.
2.11Place the mirror Single Welt Pocket Bag on top of the Single Welt Pocket, right side facing down, matching the raw edges of the first Single Welt Pocket Bag.
Repeat step 2.9 to draw a line on this Pocket Bag.
Pin in place.
2.12Repeat step 2.10 to stitch the Pocket Bag in place.
2.13Turn the Front over, wrong sides facing up. Check that the two lines of stitching are ¾ inch apart.
Draw a line down the middle of these two stitched lines stopping about ¼ inch before the end of the stitching.
2.14Using the tips of your scissors, carefully cut along the marked line only.
2.15On the right side of the Front, pin back the seams of the Single Welt Pocket and Pocket Bags, away from the main fabric.
2.16On the wrong side, clip two small diagonal lines from each end of the cut line to the end of the stitching. Be careful not to cut through the stitches.
Press the little triangles on the top and bottom of the rectangle opening so they lay open and flat.
2.17Pull the Pocket Bags through to the wrong side of the Front. Press.
2.18Match up the two Pocket pieces right sides together aligning the raw edges. Pin together.
2.19Keeping the Pocket Bags away from the Front, use a stretch stitch to stitch around the Pocket, using ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – The small triangles will need to be pinned against the Pocket Bag so they can be stitched down.
2.20OPTIONAL: Serge or zig-zag stitch around the Pocket Bag along the seam allowances.
2.21Working from the right side of the Front, flip the Single Welt Pocket piece up so right sides are facing up. Press.
Pin at both short sides.
2.22Topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
2.23Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.22 for the second Single Welt Pocket.
3 . Shoulder Seams3.1With right sides together, pin the Front to the Back at the shoulders.
TIP – If your fabric is very stretchy or has less recovery, you might want to use a clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams to prevent them from stretching out over time with wear. To add the elastic, leave excess on either ends of the seam, you can cut the excess later. Pin the elastic without stretching it and incorporate it to the shoulder seam.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
STITCHED SEAM: Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch.
Press the seam allowance to the Back.
4 . Neckband4.1Fold one long raw edge of the Neckband under ⅜ inch and press, creating a memory hem.
If you have used directional fabric, make sure this is the top edge.
Open your pressed folds back out.
4.2Fold the Neckband in half lengthways, right sides together. Press.
Pin a short side.
4.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
4.4Repeat steps 4.2 to 4.3 for the other short side of the Neckband.
4.5Place the Neckband over the neckline, right sides together, matching the seams of the Top Placket and the Neckband. Pin.
NOTE – The memory hem of the Neckband will be facing the wrong side of the Bodice.
NOTE – The Top Placket will be sandwiched in between the Neckband.
4.6Starting from the pressed edge of the Neckband, stitch down using ⅜ inch seam allowance, pivot at the corner and stitch across the memory hem seam, stopping just past the end of the Top Placket.
NOTE – You will be stitching through the Top Placket and the Neckband pieces.
4.7Clip the corner and trim the seam allowance, being careful not to clip the stitching.
Repeat steps 4.5 to 4.7 to attach the other end of the Neckband over the Bottom Placket.
NOTE – Check you have not twisted the Neckband.
4.8Find the center of the Neckband and the center of the neckline and match these points. Pin.
Continue pinning, stretching the Neckband to fit the neckline.
NOTE – You are only pinning the raw edge of the Neckband to the front of the Bodice. The other side of the Neckband with the memory hem will be stitched in step 4.12.
4.9Starting close to where you stitched the Neckband in step 4.6, stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance, stopping close to the stitches on the other side of the Neckband.
4.10Turn the Neckband right side out. Flip the Neckband over the raw edges of the Bodice.
4.11With the memory hem folded under, pin the Neckband to the Bodice. This needs to cover the stitching from the right side of the Bodice.
4.12Stitch using a straight stitch directly on the seam of the Neckband. You will sew directly along the seam line from the front of your Bodice. This is called stitching in the ditch. Your stitches won’t be seen.
ALTERNATIVE – Topstitch the front of the Neckband using ⅛ inch seam allowance. Check that the back of the Neckband is caught in the stitches.
5 . Fastenings5.1Sew buttonholes onto the Neckband and Top Placket, using the markings you previously transferred. Or add snaps to the pattern markings.
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty, switch to a matching color or use a contrasting color in a regular weight.
TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop from ripping through the other side of your buttonhole.
5.2Lay the Plackets together to mark the placement of the buttons. Use a fabric marker or pin to go through the opening of the hole and mark placements on the Neckband and Bottom Placket.
Stitch the buttons onto the Neckband and Bottom Placket.
6 . Sleeves6.1Fold the Sleeve in half and mark the center with a pin.
Lay the Bodice open, right side facing up. Place the Sleeve, right side facing down, matching the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin.
6.2Pin the ends of the Sleeve to the ends of the armscye.
Continue pinning the Sleeve to the armscye.
6.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam toward the Sleeve and away from the Bodice.
6.4Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for the other Sleeve.
7 . Side Seam7.1With the right sides together, pin the Front to the Back of the shirt along the Sleeves and down the side seams. Pin from the end of the Sleeve down ½ inch above the split hem pattern marking.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
7.3If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zig zag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
7.4Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the other side seam.
8 . Sleeve Cuff8.1Fold a Sleeve Cuff in half lengthways, right sides together, matching the short sides. Pin.
NOTE – The images shown here are the ladies pattern pieces which are shaped slightly differently. However, the steps are the same.
8.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
STITCHED SEAM: Press the seam allowance open.
8.3Fold the Sleeve Cuff in half, wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges and the seam.
Place a pin at the seam. Fold the Cuff in half and a place a pin in that fold (opposite side to seam). Open the Cuff and fold it the other way. Place a pin in each fold. You will now have all quarter points marked with a pin.
8.4Repeat step 8.3 to mark the Sleeve quarter points.
TIP – If your fabric doesn’t have much stretch you can gather the sleeve before attaching cuff. Stitch two rows of gathering stitches. The first row should be ¼ inch from the edge. The second row should be ¾ inch from the edge. Gather the sleeve evenly.
8.5Slide the Sleeve Cuff over the Sleeve, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
8.6Serge or stitch using ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.7Turn the Sleeve wrong side out. Press the seam allowance up towards the Sleeve.
8.8Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.7 for the other Sleeve Cuff and Sleeve.
9 . Side Split Hem9.1Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side on the Front and Back. Press.
9.2Starting on one side of the Front, fold the hem to the right side, matching the folded edge of the hem from step 9.1 to the pattern marking. Pin.
9.3Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
9.4Repeat step 9.1 to 9.3 on the Back hem on that side.
Clip the corners, being careful not to cut the stitching.
9.5Turn the corners right side out.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so they are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
9.6Fold the raw edges of the side split over the side seam. Pin.
Press.
9.7Repeat steps 9.2 to 9.6 for the side split hem on the other side of the Front and Back.
9.8Fold the rest of the hem up to the wrong side, keeping the memory hem from step 8.1 inside. Press and pin in place.
NOTE – The entire hem should be the same 3 ½ inches width as the side split.
9.9Topstitch close to the folded edge, and along the inside of the side split, using a straight stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Sara Sweater is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpsarasweater.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSara Sweater
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
The Sara Sweater is loose-fitting with a scooped high collar and an off-set buttoned placket. The dropped shoulders give it a relaxed fit while the billowy sleeves, which are gathered into the cuffs, create a chic look. The functional welt pockets and deep hem with side slits are both optional but gives it those beautiful finishes.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hips
Center back length
Sleeve length
Bicep
Cuff width
12 – 18 mos
23.5
23.0
22.7
13.5
11.5
7.0
4.7
18 – 24 mos
24.5
24.0
23.7
14.5
12.5
7.6
4.9
2 – 3 yrs
26.5
26.0
25.5
15.5
13.5
8.2
5.1
3 – 4 yrs
27.5
27.2
27.0
16.5
14.5
9.0
5.5
5 – 6 yrs
29.5
29.2
29.0
18.5
16.2
9.7
5.9
7 – 8 yrs
31.5
31.2
31.0
20.0
17.7
10.5
6.3
9 – 10 yrs
32.5
3.5
34.0
21.0
19.2
11.2
6.7
11 – 12 yrs
34.5
35.5
36.0
21.5
21.0
12.0
7.3
Materials and ToolsThe fabric you choose needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight however best results & fit will be achieved with a medium weight fabric. Great examples are 2-way stretch fabric such as sweater knits, medium weight jersey, stretch fleece and stretch French terry or stretch velour. Do not use a woven fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sweater
12 – 18 mos
0.75
18 – 24 mos
1.00
2 – 4 yrs
1.00
5 – 8 yrs
1.25
9 – 12 yrs
1.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sweater
12 – 24 mos
0.75
2 – 4 yrs
0.75
5 – 10 yrs
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 2x ½ inch wide Buttons
- A small piece of lightweight Interfacing – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL Iron-on Fusible Tape – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear Elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.