Children’s Skinny Jeans

Pattern Markings 

Transfer all pattern markings and notches using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL Back Pockets, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 2. 

If you are using a topstitch thread, put this into your machine now. Make sure to use a regular thread in your bobbin. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge all edges to finish (do not remove any seam allowance). If you wish to apply embroidery, follow step 1.1. If not, skip to step 1.2.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

If you wish to apply any embroidery to the Back Pockets, do this now. If not, skip to step 1.2. 

You could do straight lines, crosses, freehand embroidery, or even a design or name using a sewing machine, embroidery machine, or freehand. 

If doing an applique or other embellishment, do this now. 

If you are using a machine to embroider on the Back Pocket and have not yet cut out your Back Pockets accurately so that you could get the fabric into your embroidery hoop, finish cutting out the Back Pockets once you are done with your embroidery. 

If you use topstitching thread for this step, change back to regular thread before moving to the next step. 

TIP – You can use a washable fabric pen or tailor’s chalk to draw on your embroidery first to give you lines to sew over easily. 

Fold the top edge of the Back Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

Turn the Back Pocket over and fold the fabric ½ inch to the right side. Press. 

Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge ½ inch away from the side, on both sides.

Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner. 

Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. 

Press. 

TIP – Use a chopstick or other blunt object to push out the corners if needed to help get a nice sharp point. 

Fold the raw edge on the side under by ¼ inch. Press so the raw edges are hidden. 

Repeat for the other side of the Back Pocket. 

Fold the bottom edges of the Back Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side once. 

Then repeat to fold the bottom edges of the Back Pocket another ¼ inch to the wrong side. 

If you have a little triangle of fabric hanging down from the top of the pocket edge, either trim this or tuck it up inside the top of the pocket and press. 

Topstitch from the right side of the fabric close to the folded edge at the top of the Back Pocket. 

Leave the threads long at each end. 

TIP – Stitch slowly. It can be difficult to sew through all these layers. Use the handwheel rather than the pedal if needed. Beware of snapping needles and stitch with care. 

TIP – Use a ‘clapper’ to make it easier to stitch through the layers. Alternatively, cover your fabric with a clean old tea towel, place it on a flat hard surface and bang the thick section gently with a hammer. This flattens and makes the fabric thinner to stitch through. It also breaks the fibers and makes the fabric less dense. 

Use a needle to push the loose threads all through to the back side of the Back Pocket. Tie in a knot and trim. 

Place the Back Pocket onto a Back Leg using the pattern markings. Pin. 

TIP – As everyone’s body shape is different you might find the pocket placements may not be in the best position for you. Baste the Back Pocket using the placements provided. Once you have completed step 7, try them on and adjust the placements if needed. Then continue with 1.13 to stitch them in place.

Topstitch along the side of the Back Pocket, across the bottom and up the other side, using a ⅛ seam allowance.  

OPTIONAL – You can sew a triangle/bar tacks at the corners for extra stability and security. This is especially useful for reinforcing the pockets if you tend to put your hands in your Back Pockets or use them for storing things like a phone. 

TIP – If you are using topstitching thread, it can be tricky to backstitch. Instead leave the thread loose, take the tails through to the wrong side of the fabric, tie in a secure knot and trim. 

TIP – Take extra care around the bottom point of the pocket as this is the thickest part of the pocket to stitch through. You may need to use your handwheel in this area if your sewing machine has difficulty with this point.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.13 for the other Back Pocket. 

If you wish to apply rivets, apply these as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the two upper corners of the pockets. 

If not, skip to step 2. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Back Yoke right sides together with the Back Leg, ensuring the correct pieces are matched. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. If you are using a 3 or 4 thread serger, stitch along your serged seam, using a regular sewing machine. This will strengthen the seam, as it is a high stress point. Press the seam up towards the Back Yoke. OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam allowance in place.  Repeat for the other Back Yoke and Back Leg. Then skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

The Back Yoke and Back Leg piece will be joined using a flat fell seam. 

Place the Back Leg piece wrong side up, and then place the Back Yoke wrong side up above it. 

The center back seam of the Back Yoke pattern piece is labeled. This is the side to match to the back rise. 

The opposite edge to the center back seam will be slightly shorter. It lines up with the outside leg side seam on the Back Leg. 

If you’ve got the wrong Back Yoke piece, switch these now and check they match. 

Once you’re happy you have the correct pair of pieces, move on to the next step. 

NOTE – Your Back Yoke piece might have a different shape to what is shown. Use the labels on the pattern piece to check which way you need to attach the Back Yoke to the Back Leg.

With flat fell seams, it is important which piece you have on top when you stitch. The top piece will have the first row of top stitching and then the bottom piece will have the seam allowance pressed towards it and the second row of top stitching. 

Flip the Back Yoke down onto the Back Leg piece so they are wrong sides together. 

One pointed edge of the Back Yoke will stick out slightly. You want the little triangle where the two pieces meet to be ⅝ inch away from the raw edge. That way, when you sew the two pieces together, they will meet up exactly.

Take your time pinning these edges together. 

Start by pinning each end. 

NOTE – You will need to pin at the ⅝ inch seam allowance, not at the raw edge.

Then pin in the middle and the rest of the seam. 

Stitch with the Back Leg piece on top, using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. 

The seam allowance will be sticking out on the right side of the garment (not the underside like it usually would be). 

TIP – Having the Back Leg piece on top is important to ensure the topstitching looks correct so make sure the back is on top and the Back Yoke is underneath when you put the fabric onto your sewing machine before stitching.

TIP – If you are using a thicker topstitching as used in these photos, some sewing machines won’t like backstitching at either end of the seam. Flat fell seams have two rows of stitching holding them down so backstitching can be skipped on most seams. Instead, leave a small tail of thread at either end to stop it unravelling while you complete the rest of the garment. Once complete the seams will all overlap or be finished in some way and these tails will be hidden.

Trim ONLY the Back Yoke seam allowance in half. 
Do not trim the Back Leg seam allowance.

Press the seam towards the Back Yoke (so that the shorter part of the seam allowance is hidden underneath).

Turn the garment to the wrong side and check the full seam allowance has been pressed. Especially near the outside leg seam, it can be easy to not open the seam allowance fully. This seam is what gives the bottom shaping so it’s important it’s fully open.

Fold the longer part of the seam allowance in half. The raw edge should tuck in, underneath the other shorter bit of seam allowance that you trimmed in step 2.6.

Press.

Topstitch from the right side of the fabric, close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge) to secure the fold down.

Press.

Your first flat fell seam is now complete! 

We will be using this technique in several places throughout the sew. As you get used to it, make sure to check each time which pattern piece needs to be on top. This will ensure you end up with the topstitching thread showing on the correct piece, and the seam allowance folding in the right direction.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.9 for the other Back Yoke and Back Leg.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the bottom edge and side edge of the Pocket Facing that is sewn down to the Pocket Bag without removing any seam allowance. Follow steps 3.1 to 3.4. Serge the Pocket Bag right sides together to the Front Leg. Follow steps 3.7 to 3.8. Serge the bottom edge of the Pocket Bag using a ½ inch seam allowance. Follow step 3.12. Repeat all with the other Front Leg, Pocket Facing, and Pocket Bag. Then skip to step 4.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Fold the bottom and side edge of your Pocket Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

NOTE – These will be the edges that will be stitched to the Pocket Bag.  

Lay the matching Pocket Bag right side up.

Place the Pocket Facing onto the Pocket Bag right side facing up, matching the top corners. Pin. 

Stitch the Pocket Facing to the Pocket Bag along the top straight edge and along the side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – This seam will be hidden inside the finished garment so you can use a regular thread (not topstitching).

Topstitch the bottom raw edge and the other side edge you pressed down in step 3.1 of the Pocket Facing to the Pocket Bag using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – This seam will be hidden inside the finished garment so you can use a regular thread (not topstitching).

Lay the Front Leg right side facing up. Place the Pocket Bag right sides together with the Front. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half, then clip the seam allowance.

TIP – Clip approximately every ½ inch. The aim is to open the seam out so it will sit flat in the next step. Use the tip of the scissors for maximum control. Snip approximately ¾ of the way into the seam allowance. Do not snip too close to the seam or you may end up with a hole. It’s easier to snip less and come back and snip again if needed than it is to fix a hole.

TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the Front leg seam, then trim ⅜ from the Pocket Bag seam allowance.

Flip the Pocket Bag over to the wrong side of the Front, wrong sides together. Press.

If you are using topstitching thread, change your thread to this now for this step only.

Topstitch along this seam with the Front on top so the stitching can be seen.

The bottom of the Pocket Bag will be closed using a French Seam. 

Fold the Pocket Bag wrong sides together. It’s a bit tricky to do this and you’ll need to slide it in between the Front and the other side of the Pocket Bag.

Stitch along the bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Take care not to catch the Front, or any other part of the Pocket Bag.

Trim the seam allowance to neaten.

Turn the Pocket Bag the other way out so that it is now right sides together. Press, making sure the seam from step 3.9 is in the middle of this seam. Pin.

Stitch along the bottom of the Pocket Bag using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Pin the Pocket Bag to the Front along the top and side.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.12 with the other Front, Pocket Facing, and Pocket Bag. 

If you are sewing the zipper fly OPTION, follow below. If you are sewing the faux fly OPTION or the jeggings OPTION, skip to step 5.

NOTE – We recommend the faux fly for sizes 12 – 24 mos. 

The following steps show the zipper fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way a girl’s fly is oriented. If you want your fly to open to the right, complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.

Fold the Fly Guard in half, wrong sides together. Press.

If you want to bind the raw edges, skip to step 4.4. 

Alternatively, finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch. Do not remove any seam allowance if you are serging. 

Repeat step 4.2 to finish the curved edges of the Fly Stand. 

Skip to step 4.8.

You will be binding the long edge and the bottom edge of the Fly Guard. You do not need to bind the top short edge of the Fly Guard.

To bind the edge, open the Binding and place it wrong side up along the long edge of the Fly Guard and pin in place. 

NOTE – We will use this same binding technique throughout the tutorial where there are raw edges that you would otherwise serge or zig zag stitch. The method is the same for all seams, whether you have one layer of fabric or two, and whether you have a straight seam or a curved seam.

Stitch along the fold line using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the Binding around to the other side of the Fly Guard and pin to enclose all edges. Press. 

Topstitch close to the folded edge of the Binding to secure.

Repeat steps 4.4 to 4.7 to bind the curved edges of the Fly Stand.

Lay the Fly Guard with the finished edge at the top. Place the zipper on top of the Fly Guard right side facing up and pin along the finished edge.

NOTE – The zipper teeth need to be ⅝ inch from the edge of the Fly Guard. As zipper tapes vary in width, check that you have the correct seam allowance, adjusting your placement accordingly.

NOTE – If your zipper is too long, remove some of the teeth from the bottom, to shorten it. Use pliers to gently pull the teeth off. Then stitch a bar tack over the zipper teeth at the bottom.

Stitch the zipper to the Fly Guard using ⅜ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Guard.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Finish the rise seam of one Front piece from the top edge, down to the small pattern marking (marked in yellow in this photo). Use either a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge, or alternatively bind using the method from steps 4.4 to 4.7. Repeat for the other Front.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge to finish the full length of the rise seam of one Front piece. Do not remove any seam allowance. Repeat for the other Front.

Place the two Fronts right sides together at the front rise. Pin. 

Stitch from the pattern marking down to the end of the front rise seam using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

Open the legs and press the seam allowance on the left legs rise seam ⅝ inch toward the wrong side.

TIP – It can be helpful to press just under ⅝ inch, so the overlap needed in the following steps is a bit easier.  

Place the zipper and Fly Guard right side up and place the left leg (as worn) on top of the zipper. Flip over so right sides are facing up and pin the folded edge close to the zipper tape and through the Fly Guard.

Topstitch, from the right side, close to the folded edge through all layers, using a zipper foot.

With the right sides together, pin the Fly Stand to the right leg. 

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Fly Stand to the wrong side of the right leg and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Fly Stand in place.

Pin the right leg over the left leg so that none of the topstitching on the left side is showing.

NOTE – You want your pins to be going vertically so that you can complete the next step.

Turn the front legs over so that the wrong side is up. You will be sewing the zipper to the Fly Stand, but not through the jeans leg. 

Pin the zipper to the Fly Stand and stitch. Be careful to keep the jeans leg out of the way.

NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Stand.

Pin the Fly Guard to the left leg so that it is out of the way for the next step.

Mark the front of the jeans where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly. You can do this by feeling for the Fly Stand and then marking with a piece of chalk or washable marker. 

TIP – Use the Fly Stand pattern piece as a template.

Check the lines finish just below the zipper so that you do not end up stitching over the zipper teeth.

Keeping the Pocket Bag and Fly Guard out of the way, topstitch where you have marked.

TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your jeans for this topstitching. If yours has this, just cut the cardboard flap away from your zipper package and then use it as a template.

OPTIONAL – Stitch a horizontal bar tack ½ inch above the bottom curve for added strength.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch a second row of stitching.

Turn the jeans over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard. 

Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand along the overlap on the bottom edge. 

NOTE – Do not stitch it to the leg. 

Skip to step 6.

If you are sewing the faux fly OPTION, follow below. If you have sewn the zipper fly, skip to step 6.

The following steps show the faux fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way a girl’s fly is oriented. If you want the fly to open to the right, complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.

Fold the Fly Guard in half, wrong sides together. Press.

If you want to bind the raw edges, skip to step 5.4. 

Alternatively, finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch. Do not remove any seam allowance if you are serging. 

Repeat step 5.2 to finish the curved edges of the Fly Stand. 

Skip to step 5.8.

You will be binding the long edge and the bottom edge of the Fly Guard. You do not need to bind the top short edge of the Fly Guard.

To bind the edge, open the Binding and place it wrong side up along the long edge of the Fly Guard and pin in place. 

NOTE – We will use this same binding technique throughout the tutorial where there are raw edges that you would otherwise serge or zig zag stitch. The method is the same for all seams, whether you have one layer of fabric or two, and whether you have a straight seam or a curved seam.

Stitch along the fold line using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the Binding around to the other side of the Fly Guard and pin to enclose all edges. Press. 

Topstitch close to the folded edge of the Binding to secure.

Repeat steps 5.4 to 5.7 to bind the curved edges of the Fly Stand.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – OPTIONAL Finish the rise seam of one Front piece from the top edge, down to the small pattern marking (marked in yellow in this photo). Use either a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge, or alternatively bind using the method from steps 4.4 to 4.7. Repeat for the other Front.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge to finish the full length of the rise seam of one Front piece. Do not remove any seam allowance. Repeat for the other Front.

Place the two Front right sides together. Pin the front rise from the pattern marking down to the end of the front rise seam. 

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

Open the legs right side up and place the Fly Guard on the left leg (as worn) and pin. 

Stitch from the top down to the marking using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Flip the Fly Guard over and press.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Place the Fly Stand onto the right leg right sides together. Pin.

Stitch from the waist edge down to the marking using a ½ seam allowance.

Flip the Fly Stand to the wrong side of the right leg and press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Fly Stand in place.

Fold the Fly Guard back on itself so that it is out of the way for the next step. Pin.

Mark the front of the jeans where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly with a piece of tailor’s chalk or washable marker. Feel through the fabric to the Fly Stand underneath and follow the seam allowance of this.

TIP – You can use your Fly Stand pattern piece as a guide for drawing on your line. 

Flip the pocket back out of the way. Depending on the size, you may need to unpick a little of the stitching holding the top of the pocket in place in order to flip it back out of the way. Alternatively, if it does overlap the Fly Stand and you want it stitched underneath it, lay this flat under it now.

Topstitch where you have marked, keeping the pocket and Fly Guard out of the way.

TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your jeans for this topstitching. Just cut the flap away from your zipper package and then use it as a template.

Turn the jeans over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard and let it lay open and flat, so it covers the Fly Stand. Pin in place from the right side.

If you are sewing the jeggings OPTION, skip to step 5.19. If you are sewing the jeans OPTION, follow below.

Flip the jeans over so the right side is facing up. You will be stitching the fly half closed. 

Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top of your previous stitches. 

You can also add a horizontal stitch to make it even more secure. 

Skip to step 6. 

Flip the jeans over so the right side is facing up. You will be stitching the fly completely closed. Pin the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand, making sure they line up nicely along the topstitching. 

Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top or your previous stitches. Topstitch along the edge of the Fly Stand ⅛ inch from the edge, making sure it is lined up nicely with the top stitching of the Fly Guard. Your fly is now completely stitched closed. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, you have already finished the front rise. Skip to step 7.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

You will use a flat fell seam to finish the front rise. 

Clip across the seam allowance of the rise seam, below the zipper fly, towards the stitching. You will be clipping as close to the stitching as possible. Clip each side.

Trim the seam allowance on the right side of the seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the left.

NOTE – If you chose to have your zipper fly opening to the right, you will be trimming the seam allowance on the left. All of the rest of the steps will be opposite.

Press the left seam allowance over the right seam allowance.

Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin from the right side.

Topstitch close to the folded edge from the right side of the fabric (with topstitching thread if you are using it).

NOTE – The topstitching should meet the end of the curved stitching on the front of the jeans.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Back pieces right sides together and pin along the rise. Serge the using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to one side. OPTIONAL Topstitch the seam allowance in place. Then skip to step 8. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

A flat fell seam will be used to stitch the back rise. 

Place the Back pieces right sides together and pin along the rise seam. 

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. 

Make sure to carefully line up your Back Yoke seams so they match nicely before stitching.

Trim the seam allowance on the left side of the rise seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the right.

NOTE – You are trimming the opposite side of what you did in step 6.2. This is so the stitching on both seams will match up when you stitch the Front and Backs together. If you did the fly on the other side, do the opposite here too.

Press the right seam allowance over the left.

Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin from the right side.

If you have any difficulty folding the raw edges over the Back Yoke seam, open out the seam allowance and trim the underneath seam slightly along this section. Then refold, press and pin. If needed use clappers or hammer gently while covering the fabric to flatten.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back pieces right sides together. Pin along the inner leg seam. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to the Back. OPTIONAL – Topstitch the seam in place. Then skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

You will use a flat fell seam to stitch the inner leg seam.

Place the Front and Back wrong sides together. Pin down the inner leg seam, starting where the Front and Back rises come together. 

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance with the Front on top.

Trim the seam allowance on the Back in half. 

NOTE – Do not trim the seam allowance on the Front. Make sure you are only trimming the seam allowance from the Back in half, from the top. You should only ever be cutting through one layer of fabric. 

Press the Front seam allowance over the Back seam allowance.

Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press.

Pin from the right side of the fabric.

Topstitch close to the folded edge from the right side of the fabric.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back pieces right sides together. Pin along one outer leg seam. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to the Back. Repeat with the other outer leg seam. If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, skip to step 10. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Belt Loops, skip to step 11 for the regular waistband, step 12 for the adjustable elastic waistband or step 13 for the jeggings. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch the outer leg seams together. French seams hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along

With the wrong sides together (right sides facing out), pin a Front to the Back along the outer leg seam.

TIP – Start by pinning the waist together, then the hem and at the center. Continue pinning together. This will help align the side seam.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both the beginning and the ending of stitching.

NOTE – If you find your fabric is too thick to do a French seam, follow the serger option but use a zig zag stitch or bind to finish the seam.

Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold. 

Stitch again approximately ⅜ inch from the edge.

Press. 

This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).

NOTE – The first ¼ inch from step 9.1 plus the ⅜ inch from this step equals the full seam allowance of ⅝ inch. 

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.4 with the other outer leg seam. 

If you are sewing the jeggings option, skip to step 13. 

If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, follow below. 

If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Belt Loops, skip to step 11 for the regular waistband, step 12 for the adjustable elastic waistband or step 13 for the jeggings. 

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold your Belt Loop strip in half along its length with wrong sides together, and press.

Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step, press.

Fold in half, along your original fold line from step 10.1 and press. Your raw edges should now be tucked inside.

Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.

Lay the Waistband on a flat surface and fold the Waistband in half widthwise, wrong sides together. 

Align one end of the Belt Loop so that the raw edges are lined up with the top folded edge of the Waistband. 

Cut the Belt Loop where the bottom raw edge of the Waistband is.

Repeat to cut 5x strips of Belt Loop, all the same length, which are the same depth as the Waistband.

Discard any remaining Belt Loop, just keeping these 5 identically sized pieces.

Press each short end ¼ inch to the wrong side for all 5 Belt Loops.

Follow below for the regular waistband or skip to step 12 for the adjustable elastic waistband.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow the same steps as below, except for steps 11.2 and 11.5, serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 14.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Press your Waistband piece in half along the length wrong sides together. Unfold. 

Press one long edge of the Waistband ⅝ inch to the wrong side.

Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.

Stitch each short edge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You will be stitching over the folded seam allowance from step 11.1 at the sides of the Waistband.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk and create crisp corners.

Turn the Waistband right side out and press. 

Make sure to fully turn the corners out. Use a blunt pointed object such as a point turner or knitting needle to get them all the way out.

Open up the zipper. Place the right side of the Waistband on the inside of the jeans and pin. 

You should be pinning the right side of the Waistband that the seam allowance has not been pressed upwards to the jeans.

Start by pinning each end and then ease the remainder in. 

NOTE – Your Waistband should fit the top of your jeans exactly. However, if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it onto the top of the jeans slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side in half and pin, divide in half again and pin, repeat again until it is evenly distributed along the Waistband.

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – In order to start stitching at the exact ⅝ inch seam allowance, you will need to pull the pressed side of the Waistband out of the way.

TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the outer Waistband seam, then trim ⅜ from the inner Waistband seam allowance.

Flip the Waistband over to the right side and press. 

If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, pin each Belt Loop onto the Waistband at the bottom folded edge as per the pattern markings, or as desired. You want to catch the Belt Loops in the topstitching of this seam. 

Pin the bottom edge of the Waistband to the jeans. Make sure the folded edge of the Waistband covers the stitching.

Topstitch all the way around the Waistband using top stitching thread if you are using it.

OPTIONAL BELT LOOPS – Make sure as you are stitching that you are only catching the bottom pinned edge of the Belt Loop.

Take the other end of the Belt Loops and pin the folded edge to top of the Waistband. Pin.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge. Go over each Belt Loop a few times for extra security. You may need to use your handwheel to do this depending on the thickness of your fabric.

Close the zipper. Using the pattern markings, mark using a pin, tailors chalk or invisible fabric marker where the fastening will sit. Your fastening should be halfway between the top and bottom of the Waistband, centered over the section where the two sides of Waistband cross over. 

OPTIONAL POPPER/SNAP – There is a male and female part which snap together. Decide which part you want on top. Apply that part at the buttonhole pattern marking using the manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 11.10.

If you are using a button, stitch the buttonhole horizontally along the Waistband at the pattern marking.

TIP – Some topstitching threads are too thick for buttonholes. If you have difficulty, do not use topstitching thread for the buttonhole. Instead use a matching regular thread. 

TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!

TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty.

TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth over to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching your buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slide in much more smoothly.

TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change your needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. You are right near the end of the garment now so it may have become blunt, or even slightly bent during sewing. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.

Mark centrally under the buttonhole where your button needs to go.

If you are using a jeans-style button, apply your button using manufacturers’ instructions. If you are using a regular style button, stitch this on now.

OPTIONAL POPPER/SNAP – Apply the other part at the button pattern marking using the manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 11.11.

TIP – If you are using medium or heavy weight fabric, use an awl or sharp pointed object to carefully pierce the fabric first. This will make a small hole and will make it much easier to insert the shank of the button. Make your hole as small as possible. If you make too large of a hole, the button will move around.

TIP – If you are using a hammer on buttons or snaps, practice this on a scrap piece of fabric first. If you are using a hammer to apply them, also make sure to protect the button with a cloth. If you have one, a mallet is a better tool as it is softer and less likely to damage the button. Many suppliers provide a set of tools for applying metal or hammer on buttons/snaps. If they do not, placing your button face down on a wooden spoon can provide a sturdy but slightly rounded surface which will protect the button.

If you are not adding OPTIONAL rivets, skip to step 14. If you are adding OPTIONAL rivets, follow below.

Add two rivets to each Front Pocket using the manufacturer’s instructions. These should be applied so that the edge of each rivet is approximately ⅛ inch from the seam line in each corner of the Pocket.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow the same steps as below, except for steps 12.3, serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 14.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Fold your Waistband in half widthwise, right sides together. Press. 

Unfold your Waistband and lay it right side up. Lay your jeans over the top, matching the center of the Waistband with the center back of the jeans. 

On your Waistband, mark a vertical line on each side ½ inch in from the side seams, using tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

Stitch a test buttonhole onto a scrap of fabric to check the width. The buttonhole should be wide enough to fit the buttonhole elastic, but not so wide that it protrudes into the ⅝ inch seam allowance at bottom of the Waistband or over the center fold of the Waistband. 

Stitch one vertical buttonhole over the marking on each side. 

When the jeans are assembled, the buttonhole should go nearly the folded width of the Waistband, but not into the seam allowance or over the fold in the center.

TIP – I have an automatic buttonhole option on my sewing machine, and I find that if I use a 1 inch button as a guide, it ends up the right length between the seam allowances to fit the 1 inch buttonhole elastic. If you have this feature, test on a scrap of fabric first to check the buttonhole is the correct size.

Fold the edge of the Waistband piece that will be on the outer part of your jeans (not the side you just put the buttonholes in) over to the wrong side by ⅝ inch. Press. 

Fold the Waistband in half along the fold line right sides together. Pin the short edges together. 

Stitch each short edge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – You will be stitching over the ⅝ inch fold you pressed up in the previous step. 

Clip the corners to reduce bulk and create crisp corners.

Turn the Waistband right side out and press.

Make sure to fully turn the corners out. Use a blunt pointed object such as a point turner or knitting needle to get them all the way out.

Open up the zipper. Place the right side of the Waistband on the inside of the jeans and pin. 

You should be pinning the right side of the Waistband that has the buttonholes in it to the wrong side of the jeans.

Start by pinning each end and then ease the remainder in. 

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Your Waistband should fit the top of your jeans exactly. However, if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it onto the top of the jeans slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side in half and pin, divide in half again and pin, repeat again until it is evenly distributed along the Waistband. 

NOTE – In order to start stitching at the exact ⅝ inch seam allowance, you will need to pull the pressed side of the Waistband out of the way.

TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the outer Waistband seam, then trim ⅜ from the inner Waistband seam allowance.

Turn the Waistband right side out and pin.

If you are adding OPTIONAL Belt Loops, place each Belt Loop onto the Waistband at the bottom folded edge at the pattern markings, or as desired. Pin. You want to catch the Belt Loops in the topstitching of this seam. 

Pin the bottom edge of the Waistband to the jeans. Make sure the folded edge of the Waistband covers the stitching.

NOTE – With some fabrics, the folded over Belt Loop will be too thick to pin. Use clappers or a hammer gently with fabric over to protect your jeans to flatten the belt loop. Alternatively press it with steam so it stays flat without pinning.

Topstitch all the way around the Waistband.

OPTIONAL BELT LOOPS – Make sure as you are stitching that you are only catching the bottom pinned edge of the Belt Loop.

Take the other end of the Belt Loops and pin the folded edge to top of the Waistband. Pin.

Topstitch using ⅛ inch from the folded edge. Go over each Belt Loop a few times for extra security. You may need to use your handwheel to do this depending on the thickness of your fabric. 

Close the zipper. Using the pattern markings, mark using a pin, tailors chalk or invisible fabric marker where the fastening will sit. Your fastening should be halfway between the top and bottom of the Waistband, centered over the section where the two sides of Waistband cross over. 

OPTIONAL POPPER/SNAP – There is a male and female part which snap together. Decide which part you want on top. Apply that part at the buttonhole pattern marking using the manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 11.10.

If you are using a button, stitch the buttonhole horizontally along the Waistband at the pattern marking.

TIP – Some topstitching threads are too thick for buttonholes. If you have difficulty, do not use topstitching thread for the buttonhole. Instead use a matching regular thread. 

TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!

TIP – If you are using topstitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your topstitching thread gives you difficulty.

TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth over to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching your buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slice in much more smoothly.

TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change your needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. You are right near the end of the garment now so it may have blunted, or even slightly bent during sewing. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.

Mark centrally under the buttonhole where your button needs to go.

If you are using a jeans-style button, apply your button using manufacturers’ instructions. If you are using a regular style button, stitch this on now.

If you are doing snaps, there will be a male part and a female part which join together. Work out which part you want on top. Apply these as marked to where the buttonholes are marked on the pattern pieces. Apply the parts that go on the bottom to where the buttons are marked on the pattern pieces.

TIP – If you are using medium or heavy weight fabric, use an awl or sharp pointed object to carefully pierce the fabric first. This will make a small hole and will make it much easier to insert the shank of the button. Make your hole as small as possible. If you make too large a hole, the button will move around.

TIP – If you are a using hammer on buttons or snaps, try applying a spare set to practice first. If you are using a hammer to apply them, also make sure to protect the button with a cloth. If you have one, a mallet is a better tool as it is softer and less likely to damage the button. Many suppliers provide a set of tools for applying metal or hammer on buttons/snaps. If they do not, placing your button face down on a wooden spoon can provide a sturdy but slightly rounded surface which will protect the button.

Stitch a button at the pattern marking at each side of the inside Waistband, ½ inch away from the buttonhole.

Measure between the buttonholes on your Waistband, add 2 inches and cut the buttonhole elastic to this length.

Pin one end of your buttonhole elastic to the garment (it doesn’t matter where. This is just to stop it from slipping into the Waistband as you thread the elastic in). 

Pin a safety pin to the other end of your elastic, and thread it into the Waistband through the buttonhole on one side. Thread it all the way through until it comes out the other end.

Center your elastic and stretch out your Waistband so the elastic is loose inside the jeans.

NOTE – You can move the elastic so it’s tighter or looser whenever you like, meaning it is adjustable as your child grows.  

NOTE – Try on the jeans now if possible. Adjust the elastic to fit. 

Fold each end of the elastic under by ½ inch.

Pull the elastic 1 inch past the button and pin the folded edge to the Waistband.

Slip the button into the nearest buttonhole to stop the elastic slipping back into the Waistband.

Stitch the folded edge of the elastic to the Waistband. 

NOTE – If you do not want this stitching visible in the finished garment, either hand sew this to the inside of the Waistband only or use a bobbin thread that is the same color as the outside of your jeans.

FIT CHECK – Try the jeans on if possible and adjust the elastic to fit by tightening it and slipping the buttonhole elastic onto the button at the most comfortable point. Adjust from both sides so that you don’t get too large a loop of elastic on one side. As your child grows, loosen the elastic and button as required.

If you are not adding OPTIONAL rivets, skip to step 14. If you are adding OPTIONAL rivets, follow below.

Add two rivets to each Front Pocket using the manufacturer’s instructions. These should be applied so that the edge of each rivet is approximately ⅛ inch from the seam line in each corner of the pocket.

Skip to step 14.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow the steps below except in steps 13.3, and 13.6 serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 14.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Fold the Waistband in half widthwise wrong sides together and press. Unfold.

Press one long edge of your Waistband ⅝ inch to the wrong side. 

Match the short edges of the Waistband right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You will be stitching over the folded seam allowance from step 13.1. 

Fold your Waistband wrong sides together with the side that has the pressed up seam allowance to the inside and press. 

Place the right side of the Waistband onto the inside of the jeggings, matching the raw edges. Pin. 

NOTE – Line up the seam in your Waistband with the center back of your jeggings. 

You should be pinning the right side of the Waistband that does not have the seam allowance pressed up to the wrong side of the jeggings. 

NOTE – Your Waistband should fit the top of your jeggings exactly. However, if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it onto the top of the jeggings slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side in half and pin, divide in half again and pin, repeat again until it is evenly distributed along the Waistband. 

Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – In order to start stitching at the exact ⅝ inch seam allowance, you will need to move the inner Waistband (with pressed edge) out of the way.

Turn the Waistband right side out and press.

Topstitch around the top of the jeggings Waistband using topstitching thread if you are using it. 

Overlap the ends of your Waistband elastic by 1 inch. Pin.

Stitch together so that your elastic is now secured into a circle. 

Insert the elastic inside your Waistband right up to the topstitching.

Pin the bottom folded edge of the Waistband down onto the jeggings, making sure you are not catching the Waistband elastic into this seam. 

NOTE – Make sure the folded edge of the Waistband covers the stitching from step 13.6. 

Topstitch all the way around the bottom of the Waistband with topstitching thread if you are using it. 

If you are not adding OPTIONAL rivets, skip to step 14. If you are adding OPTIONAL rivets, follow below.

Add two rivets to each Front Pocket using the manufacturer’s instructions. These should be applied so that the edge of each rivet is approximately ⅛ inch from the seam line in each corner of the pocket.

FIT CHECK – Try the jeans/jeggings on and check the length. Adjust as needed, allowing for a 1-inch hem. 

ROLLED CUFF HEM – If you would prefer a rolled cuff hem, follow the steps below but fold the hem towards the right side for each step. Then stitch at the side seams to secure.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem on one leg using a ½ inch seam allowance. Fold to the wrong side ½ inch, press and topstitch in place. Repeat for the other leg.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Fold the bottom hem on one leg ½ inch to the wrong side and press.

Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.

Topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 14.1 to 14.3 for the other leg.