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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
11
Children’s Slim Fit Cargos
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This children’s cargo pants sewing pattern is on-trend with a slim fit design, adjustable elasticated waistband, and faux fly. There are optional back and thigh pockets as well as an optional ankle slit.
. Includes sizes newborn-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Waist – These are high waisted pants and will sit just below your natural waist. This means that some of your height adjustment might need to be along the rise. Measure your Front and Back Rise and compare it to the above chart. To measure the rise, start measuring where the crotch seams meet, up center Front or back to the waistband. You can achieve your best fit by adjusting along the rise as well as throughout the Legs.
- Stretch direction – For some stretch woven fabrics, the stretch runs down the selvedge, rather than across. If you find your stretch is running down the selvedge, you will need to turn your pattern to accommodate for this change. Double check to make sure you cut your patterns with the stretch going from hip to hip, and not hip to knee.
- Length – The trouser Legs are designed to be slightly too long. The slit at the bottom of the trouser is designed to sit onto the shoe or just skimming the floor. That said, every individual has slightly different Leg proportions so it’s advisable to do a muslin to check if you need to lengthen or shorten the trouser Leg before cutting into your final fabric. If you are sewing the non-slit option, be sure to check length, as you might find this quite fitted at the ankle.
- Inseam – Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. It is helpful to have a friend help you out with this. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of your Leg. Since this pant is intended to be quite long, you’ll measure all the way to the floor. Compare this measurement to the Inside Leg on the finished measurement chart to help make adjustments for height.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above
- All humans vary in their proportions and some people might find their Legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- If you need to lengthen or shorten,
- Follow the advice below on crotch fitting to adjust at the crotch area, plus
- Adjust using the lengthen/shorten lines part way down the Leg. You can also adjust around the knee or mid-calf.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted pants have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the Front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between Legs where the Front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Waist – The waist measurements for babies are a bit larger than kids. This is to accommodate getting up and over nappies. The elastic will pull that in tight to baby’s waist for comfort and fit.
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted pants can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the Front and Back Legs, clip or pin together at the waist and try on.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Iron-on stretch interfacing – ¼ yard will be plenty for all sizes
- ¾ inch wide buttonhole elastic – 14-19 inches (see exact lengths on cutting chart).
- 3x ¾ inch wide buttons
- Thread to match
- 2x Front (1x mirror image pair)
- 2x Back (1x mirror image pair)
- 2x Waistband (1x outer fabric, 1x lining)
- 1x Fly Extension
- 1x Fly Guard
- 2x Pocket Bag (1x mirror image pair)
- 2x Pocket (1x mirror image pair)
- 1x piece of buttonhole elastic (cut to length in chart above)
- OPTIONAL – 2x Side Pocket
- OPTIONAL – 4x Side Pocket Flap
- OPTIONAL – 2x Back Pocket
- Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewSlim Fit Cargos
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
These slim fit cargo pants are gorgeously trendy and comfortable. Options include back and thigh pockets, and a slit at the base of the Leg.
The child’s version has an adjustable elasticated back waist and faux fly.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist (before elastic)
Hips
Front rise
Back rise
Inside leg
Thigh
Calf
0 – 3 mos
18.0
17.5
5.6
7.2
7.4
9.0
7.1
3 – 6 mos
19.0
18.6
6.0
7.4
9.2
9.4
7.2
6 – 12 mos
19.5
19.1
6.2
7.6
11.0
10.2
7.5
12 – 18 mos
21.5
20.9
6.4
8.0
12.7
10.5
7.6
18 – 24 mos
22.5
23.5
6.6
8.0
14.7
11.0
8.0
2 – 3 yrs
23.0
24.9
5.2
8.1
15.3
11.4
8.2
3 – 4 yrs
24.0
26.5
5.5
8.5
16.6
12.4
8.4
5 – 6 yrs
25.0
26.7
6.1
9.1
17.5
13.5
8.6
7 – 8 yrs
26.5
29.0
6.7
9.7
22.2
14.3
9.2
9 – 10 yrs
27.5
29.5
7.5
10.6
24.5
15.6
10.2
11 – 12 yrs
28.5
30.1
8.4
11.4
27.0
16.4
11.0
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsThese pants will be their most comfy, with the best fit, in a woven fabric with 30% stretch. Be on the lookout for bottom weight woven, with spandex or lycra included. You can also use a more stable knit fabric, also with 30% stretch. Just be aware, if you use knit instead of woven, your pants will have a bit more movement when you move.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
0 – 6 mos
0.50
6 – 24 mos
0.75
2 – 4 yrs
0.75
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
0 – 6 mos
0.50
6 – 24 mos
0.75
2 – 4 yrs
0.75
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Cargos OPTIONAL
Side
PocketsOPTIONAL
Back
Pockets0 – 24 mos 2-10 11 10 2 – 6 yrs 12-15, 18-22, 24-27 23 17 7 – 12 yrs 12-16, 18-22, 24-28 23 17 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Cargos OPTIONAL
Side
PocketsOPTIONAL
Back
Pockets0 – 24 mos 2-10 11 10 2 – 6 yrs 12-15, 18-22, 24-27 23 17 7 – 12 yrs 12-16, 18-22, 24-28 23 17 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however, if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Pocket
Waistband
¾ inch wide Buttonhole Elastic
Back Pocket
Side Pocket
Pocket Flap
Width
Height
Width
Height
Height
Width
Height
Width
0 – 3 mos
3.40
3.90
3.40
4.20
3.70
3.50
1.50
18.70
14.00
3 – 6 mos
3.50
3.90
3.50
4.20
3.70
3.70
1.50
19.80
14.50
6 – 12 mos
3.70
3.90
3.70
4.20
3.70
3.90
1.50
20.30
14.75
12 – 18 mos
3.80
3.90
3.80
4.20
3.70
4.00
1.00
21.60
15.25
18 – 24 mos
4.00
3.90
4.00
4.20
3.70
4.20
1.50
23.10
15.75
2 – 3 yrs
4.50
5.30
4.50
5.30
2.40
4.60
2.10
24.00
16.50
3 – 4 yrs
4.70
5.60
4.70
5.70
2.60
4.80
2.10
24.90
17.00
5 – 6 yrs
4.80
5.80
4.80
5.70
2.60
4.80
2.10
25.90
17.50
7 – 8 yrs
4.90
5.90
4.90
5.70
2.60
4.80
2.10
27.40
18.00
9 – 10 yrs
5.00
6.00
5.00
5.70
2.60
4.80
2.10
28.20
18.50
11 – 12 yrs
5.10
6.10
5.10
5.70
2.60
4.80
2.10
28.40
19.00
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or chalk.
- INTERFACING – Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband piece.
- BACK POCKETS (OPTIONAL) – Create the top edge of the pocket by folding ¼ inch to the wrong side, then 1 inch to the right side and a ½ inch seam allowance from the top edge. Repeat for the other side of the pocket. Clip the corners and turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. Fold the raw side edges under ¼ inch. Fold the bottom edge of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side twice. Topstitch close to the folded edge at the top of the pocket. Attach the back pocket to the Back Leg, topstitching along the sides and bottom. Repeat for the other back pocket.
- FRONT POCKETS – Finish the curved edge on the outside of the Front Leg piece, the curved edges of the pocket bag and the curved edge of the pocket pieces. With the pocket bag on the Front Leg piece right sides together, stitch along the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Flip the pocket bag to the back of the Front Leg piece and topstitch along the curved edge. With the right sides together, stitch the pocket to the pocket bag using a ½ inch seam allowance. Baste the pocket to the Front Leg piece along both the top and sides. Repeat for the other side.
- FAUX FLY – Fold the Fly Guard in half with the wrong sides together. Finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard as well as the curved edge of the fly extension. Finish the rise seam of the Front Leg piece to the marking. Repeat for the other Leg. With the Front Legs right sides together, stitch from the marking to the end of the rise seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Open out the pants Legs and place the Fly Guard on the left Leg and stitch from the top down to the marking using a ½ inch seam allowance. Flip the Fly Guard over and topstitch close to the folded edge. With the right sides together, stitch the fly extension to the right Leg using a ½ seam allowance. Flip the fly extension to the wrong side of the right Leg and press. Making sure the Fly Guard is out of the way, mark the curved part of the fly and topstitch the marking. Stitch the Fly Guard to the fly extension starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top of your previous stitches. Adding a horizontal stitch will make it even more secure.
- FRONT AND BACK RISE – Clip the seam allowance of the Front rise seam below the fly as close to the stitching as possible. Stitch a flat felled seam on the Front rise. Repeat a flat felled seam on the back rise with the Back Leg pieces.
- OUTER LEG SEAMS – Use a flat felled seam to attach the Front and Back Legs, stopping at the slit if you’re doing the optional split seams.
- SIDE POCKETS (OPTIONAL) – Prepare the side pockets as with the back pockets in step 1. Stitch two pocket flaps right sides together, leaving a 2-inch opening. Clip the corners and turn right side out and topstitch. Center the flap ½ inch above the side pocket and topstitch along the top edge. Repeat for the other side pocket.
- SIDE SEAM SPLIT – Press the side seam split flat. Fold the seam under ¼ inch so that the raw edge is now enclosed and pin. Repeat for the other side of the split. Stitch up one side of the split close to the folded edge, then stitch across and down the other side of the split.
- INNER LEG SEAM – Stitch the inner Legs using a French seam.
- WAISTBAND WITH BUTTONHOLE ELASTIC – Stitch the buttonholes onto the markings on your Waistband lining piece, ironing a small piece of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the lining, if necessary. Fold the bottom of the Waistband piece towards the wrong side by ½ inch and press. With Waistband pieces with the right sides together, stitch up the short edge, along the long edge that is not folded and down the other short edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Clip the corners. Turn the Waistband right side out. Place the right side of the Waistband lining on the inside of the pants and pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn the Waistband right side out and topstitch all the way around the waistband. Stitch a buttonhole at the marking on the waistband. Stitch a button at the marking on each side of the Waistband lining, and also on the Front of the waistband. Fold both ends of your buttonhole elastic under ¼ inch and topstitch. Thread buttonhole elastic through the Waistband and slipping buttonholes over a button on each side.
- HEM – Double fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and topstitch.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.0NOTE – The child’s and ladies versions are very similar, however the child’s does not have a back dart and has a faux fly rather than a real fly.
If you are making both, make sure to check you’re following the correct instructions.
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one of the Waistband pieces.
1 . Back Pockets (OPTIONAL)1.0If you are doing the optional back pockets, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 2.
1.1Fold the top edge of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
1.2Fold the fabric 1 inch to the right side and press.
1.3Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
1.4Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
1.5Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. Press.
1.6Fold the raw edge on the side under ¼ inch and press. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
1.7Fold the bottom edge of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side, twice, and press.
1.8Topstitch close to the folded edge at the top of the pocket.
NOTE – You will be using the same steps to make part of the side pockets in step 6.
1.9Place the back pocket on your Back Leg piece using the pattern markings.
1.10Topstitch along the side of the pocket, across the bottom and up the other side.
OPTIONAL – You can sew a triangle at the corners for extra stability and security.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.10 for the other back pocket.
2 . Front Pockets2.1Finish off the curved edge on the outside of the Front Leg piece by serging or using a zig zag stitch.
2.2Finish off the curved edges of the pocket bag and the pocket pieces.
2.3Place the pocket bag on the Front Leg piece with the right sides together and pin. Stitch along the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.4Flip the pocket bag to the back of the Front Leg piece and press.
2.5Topstitch along the curved edge.
2.6With the right sides together, pin the pocket to the pocket bag. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.7Baste the pocket to the Front Leg piece along both the top and sides.
NOTE – A basting stitch is a long, loose stitch that is used to temporarily tack the pieces together.
NOTE – Treat the pockets and Leg Front as one piece from now on.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.7 for the other side.
3 . Faux Fly3.0Traditionally, the male fly opens to the right (with the curved stitching on the left) and the female fly opens to the left (with the curved stitching on the right). The following steps show the faux fly sewn for girls. If you are sewing for a boy, you will need to stitch on the opposite side.
3.1Fold the Fly Guard in half with the wrong sides together and press.
3.2Finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch.
3.3Finish the curved edge of the fly extension.
3.4Finish off the rise seam of one Front Leg piece from the top edge, down to the small notch marking on the pattern (marked in blue in this photo). Use either a serger or a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge.
Repeat for the other Leg.
3.5Place the Front Legs with the right sides together and pin.
Stitch from the marking down to the end of the Front rise seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.6Open out the pants Legs right side up and place the Fly Guard on the left Leg and pin. Stitch from the top down to the marking using a ½ inch seam allowance.
3.7Flip the Fly Guard over and press.
3.8Topstitch close to the folded edge.
3.9With the right sides together, pin the fly extension to the right Leg. Stitch from the waist edge down to the marking using a ½ seam allowance.
3.10Flip the fly extension to the wrong side of the right Leg and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the fly extension in place.
Pin the Fly Guard to the left Leg so that it is out of the way for the next step.
3.11Mark the Front of the pants where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly with a piece of chalk or washable marker. Topstitch where you have marked.
TIP – The back flap of most zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your pants for this topstitching. Just cut the flap away from your zipper package and then use it as a template.
3.12Turn the pants over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the fly guard. You will be stitching the fly half way closed. Stitch the Fly Guard to the fly extension starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top of your previous stitches. You can also add a horizontal stitch to make it even more secure.
4 . Front and Back Rise4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Back Leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the back rise seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the side. Repeat for the Front rise seam on the Front Legs below the fly. Then skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do flat felled seams to stitch the rise seams together. The reason we will be doing a flat felled seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
4.1Clip the seam allowance of the Front rise seam below the fly. You will be clipping as close to the stitching as possible.
4.2Trim the seam allowance on the right side of the Front rise seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the left.
NOTE – If you chose to have your zipper fly opening to the right, you will be trimming the seam allowance on the left. All of the rest of the steps will be opposite.
4.3Press the left seam allowance over the right.
Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
Topstitch close to the folded edge.
NOTE – The topstitching should meet the end of the curved stitching on the Front of the pants.
4.4Place the Back Legs with the right sides together and pin along the backrise seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
4.5Trim the seam allowance on the left side of the back rise seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the right.
NOTE – You are trimming the opposite side of what you did on step 4.2. This is so the stitching on both rise seams will match up when you stitch the Front and backs together.
4.6Press the right seam allowance over the left.
4.7Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
4.8Topstitch close to the folded edge.
5 . Outer Leg Seams5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Front and Back Leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the outer Leg and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. If you are doing the optional split seams, then stop serging when you reach the slit. Press the seam to the back. Then, skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do flat felled seams to stitch the Front and back of the Leg together at the outer Leg seams. The reason we will be doing a flat felled seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
5.1Place the Front Legs and the Back Legs with the right sides together and pin down the outer Leg seam. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
If you are doing the optional split seams, stop when you reach the slit. If not, skip to step 5.3.
5.2Clip into the seam allowance above the side seam split. Clip as close to the stitching as possible.
Aim to clip horizontally straight into the seam to where your stitching finishes. It should be horizontal right next to the piece of fabric that sticks out that will become your vent.
5.3Trim the seam allowance on the Back Leg in half.
Do not trim the seam allowance on the Front Leg. Do not trim past the clip you just cut for the vent. Make sure you are only trimming the seam allowance from the Back Leg in half, from the top, down to the clip you did at the top of the vent. You should only ever be cutting through one layer of fabric.
5.4Press the Front Leg seam allowance over the Back Leg seam allowance.
5.5Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
5.6Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.6 for the other outer Leg seam.
NOTE – The second outer Leg seam will be a little trickier, because you will not be able to lay the pants flat anymore. Just make sure that you keep the rest of the pants out of the way as you sew the seam.
NOTE – You may choose to add the side seam pocket from step 6 to the first outer Leg seam before sewing the second outer Leg seam.
6 . Side Pockets (OPTIONAL)6.0If you are doing the optional side pockets, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 7.
6.1Fold the top edge of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
6.2Fold the fabric 1 inch to the right side and press.
6.3Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
6.4Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
6.5Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. Press.
6.6Fold the raw edge on the side under ¼ inch and press. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
6.7Fold the bottom edge of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side, twice, and press.
6.8Topstitch close to the folded edge at the top of the pocket.
6.9Place the side pocket on the outer Leg seam using the pattern marking.
The top of the pocket should align with the notch on the Front and Back Leg side seams. Center the pocket horizontally over the side seam.
6.10Topstitch along the side of the pocket, across the bottom and up the other side.
6.11Place two of the pocket flap pieces with the right sides together. Stitch around all four edges using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 2-inch opening for turning.
6.12Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
6.13Turn right side out and press.
6.14Topstitch down the short edge, along the bottom edge and up the other short edge.
6.15Pin the flap above the side pocket, aligning it so it is centered horizontally over the pocket, with the top edge being ½ inch above the top of the pocket.
6.16Topstitch the flap to the Leg along the top edge.
Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.16 for the other side pocket.
7 . Side Seam Split7.1Press the side seam split flat.
7.2Fold the seam under ¼ inch so that the raw edge is now enclosed and pin. Repeat for the other side of the split.
7.3Stitch up one side of the split close to the folded edge, then stitch across and down the other side of the split.
Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 for the other Leg.
8 . Inner Leg seam8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Front and Back Leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the inner Leg seam and then serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press to the back. Then skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the Front and back of the Leg together. The reason we will be doing a French seam is because it hides all the raw edges and gives a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
8.1With the wrong sides together (right sides outwards), pin the Front Legs to the Back Legs along the inseam.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both ends.
8.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
8.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
8.4Stitch again approx. ¼ inch from the edge. Press. This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
9 . Waistband with Buttonhole Elastic9.1Pick which of your Waistband pieces you’d like to be the lining of your waistband.
Place this on top of your pants. It will be ½ inch longer on either end than your pants. Mark a vertical line onto your Waistband lining where the side seams of the pants are using tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.
Stitch a test buttonhole onto a scrap of your fabric to check the width. You want the buttonhole to start just over ½ inch from the top of the Waistband lining, and finish just over ½ inch from the bottom of the Waistband lining.
Stitch one vertical buttonhole over each side seam marking.
When the pants are assembled, the buttonhole should go nearly the width of the waistband, but not into the seam allowance.
TIP – If you are using a lightweight or delicate lining fabric, iron a small piece (approximately 1 by 1 inch square) of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the Waistband lining behind where each buttonhole will go. This is to reinforce the fabric and avoid putting stress on the fabric when pulling the elastic to adjust for the child’s waist.
TIP – I have an automatic buttonhole option on my sewing machine and I find that if I use a ¾ inch button as a guide, it ends up the right length between the seam allowances to fit the ¾ inch buttonhole elastic. If you have this feature, test on a scrap of fabric first to check the buttonhole is the correct size.
9.2Fold the bottom of the Waistband piece towards the wrong side by ½ inch and press.
9.3Place the Waistband pieces with the right sides together and pin. Stitch up the short edge, along the long edge that is not folded and down the other short edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.4Clip the corners to prevent bulk and allow you to get crisp corners.
9.5Turn the Waistband right side out and press.
9.6Place the right side of the Waistband lining on the inside of the pants and pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.7Turn the Waistband right side out and pin.
9.8Topstitch all the way around the waistband.
9.9Stitch a buttonhole at the marking on the waistband.
9.10Stitch a button at the marking on each side of the Waistband lining, and also on the Front of the waistband.
NOTE – You can also choose to use a popper/snap instead of a button. Attach the popper/snap at the marking.
9.11Fold both ends of your buttonhole elastic under ¼ inch and topstitch.
Pin a safety pin to one end of your buttonhole elastic and thread it into the waistband. Thread it all the way through until it comes out the other end. When you get to the end of the elastic, slip one hole in the elastic over the button. Repeat with the other end of the elastic.
NOTE – You can move the elastic so it’s tighter or looser whenever you like, meaning it is adjustable as your child grows.
NOTE – Try on the pants before going any further. Adjust the elastic length if necessary.
10 . Hem10.1Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.
10.2Fold another ½ inch, press, and pin.
10.3Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the other Leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Slim Fit Cargos are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpslimfitcargos.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSlim Fit Cargos
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner to Intermediate
These slim fit cargo pants are gorgeously trendy and comfortable. Options include back and thigh pockets, and a slit at the base of the Leg.
The child’s version has an adjustable elasticated back waist and faux fly.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist (before elastic)
Hips
Front rise
Back rise
Inside leg
Thigh
Calf
0 – 3 mos
18.0
17.5
5.6
7.2
7.4
9.0
7.1
3 – 6 mos
19.0
18.6
6.0
7.4
9.2
9.4
7.2
6 – 12 mos
19.5
19.1
6.2
7.6
11.0
10.2
7.5
12 – 18 mos
21.5
20.9
6.4
8.0
12.7
10.5
7.6
18 – 24 mos
22.5
23.5
6.6
8.0
14.7
11.0
8.0
2 – 3 yrs
23.0
24.9
5.2
8.1
15.3
11.4
8.2
3 – 4 yrs
24.0
26.5
5.5
8.5
16.6
12.4
8.4
5 – 6 yrs
25.0
26.7
6.1
9.1
17.5
13.5
8.6
7 – 8 yrs
26.5
29.0
6.7
9.7
22.2
14.3
9.2
9 – 10 yrs
27.5
29.5
7.5
10.6
24.5
15.6
10.2
11 – 12 yrs
28.5
30.1
8.4
11.4
27.0
16.4
11.0
Materials and ToolsThese pants will be their most comfy, with the best fit, in a woven fabric with 30% stretch. Be on the lookout for bottom weight woven, with spandex or lycra included. You can also use a more stable knit fabric, also with 30% stretch. Just be aware, if you use knit instead of woven, your pants will have a bit more movement when you move.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
0 – 6 mos
0.50
6 – 24 mos
0.75
2 – 4 yrs
0.75
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Pants
0 – 6 mos
0.50
6 – 24 mos
0.75
2 – 4 yrs
0.75
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Iron-on stretch interfacing – ¼ yard will be plenty for all sizes
- ¾ inch wide buttonhole elastic – 14-19 inches (see exact lengths on cutting chart).
- 3x ¾ inch wide buttons
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, ruler, tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker, and a needle. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.