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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
4
Children’s Sports Shorts & Leggings
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Need a versatile shorts and leggings sewing pattern to complete your workout wardrobe? The Sports Shorts and Leggings sewing pattern gives you plenty of options as you can make leggings, shorts, and shorts over leggings of different lengths. The curved side seam shorts are gathered slightly into the waist with bound seams and an exposed elastic waistband. The one seam leggings have four length options; shorts, mid-thigh, mid-calf, or full length. Join the shorts and leggings together at the waist for that perfect combined look.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 12mos-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size from the hip measurements from the size chart. If your waist falls into a different size than your hip size, you will need to grade the waist. Print both sizes, gently curving from your hip size at the bottom of the pattern piece to your size for the waist. This will ensure the leggings fit properly around both the hips and the waist.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above.
- Everybody varies in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of the leg. Compare this measurement to the finished inseam measurement above, to help make adjustments for height.
- Nappies – This pattern has been drafted to fit ages 12-24 months wearing nappies. If your child wears cloth nappies and/or is older and wearing nappies, you will need to adjust your leg pieces. You will need to add into the rise on the Front and Back Legs. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise, and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.
- Muslin – I recommend you sew a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
- Use an inexpensive woven/lycra knit fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Waistband Elastic – minimum width of 1 inch wide, however different widths can be used to create different looks. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- ½ inch wide Double fold bias binding – approximately 2.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. NOTE – This is only needed for the Sports Shorts. You can use knit binding for knit Shorts or woven binding for woven Shorts.
- Thread to match
- Shorts Front – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Shorts Back – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Legging Front and Back – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewSports Shorts and Leggings
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Sports Shorts and Leggings can be sewn together or worn as separate pieces – the perfect addition to your workout wardrobe. The curved side seam shorts are gathered slightly into the waist, with bound seams and an exposed elastic waistband. The one seam plain leggings have four length options; shorts, mid-thigh, mid-calf or full length. They can be joined together at the natural waist with an exposed elastic.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Back rise
Front rise
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
12 – 18 mos
16.50
24.00
8.20
6.30
15.00
0.75
18 – 24 mos
17.50
25.00
8.50
6.50
15.30
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
18.00
26.00
8.60
6.70
15.70
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
19.00
27.00
8.70
7.00
16.20
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
20.00
28.20
9.00
7.20
17.00
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
21.00
29.50
9.30
7.50
17.70
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
22.00
30.50
9.70
8.00
18.70
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
23.00
32.00
10.10
8.30
19.70
0.75
ALL Length Leggings
Waist
Hip
Back rise
Front rise
12 – 18 mos
16.5
16.2
7.2
5.0
18 – 24 mos
17.5
17.2
7.3
5.1
2 – 3 yrs
18.0
18.6
7.5
5.3
3 – 4 yrs
19.0
19.5
7.7
5.5
5 – 6 yrs
20.0
21.5
8.0
5.7
7 – 8 yrs
21.0
23.1
8.2
6.1
9 – 10 yrs
22.0
25.6
8.6
6.3
11 – 12 yrs
23.0
27.2
9.0
6.7
Short
Mid Thigh
Mid Calf
Full Length
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
Hem circum
ference
Calf
Inseam
12–18 mos
9.7
0.5
8.0
1.7
5.7
6.0
4.1
5.7
10.2
18–24 mos
10.5
0.5
8.0
2.5
6.0
7.0
4.5
6.0
10.7
2 – 3 yrs
11.3
0.5
8.0
4.5
6.2
9.0
5.0
6.2
12.6
3 – 4 yrs
11.7
0.5
8.0
5.6
6.5
10.0
5.5
6.5
13.5
5 – 6 yrs
12.7
0.5
8.0
8.5
6.7
13.0
6.1
6.7
16.7
7 – 8 yrs
13.5
0.5
8.0
13.0
7.0
15.5
6.7
7.0
19.2
9 – 10 yrs
14.7
0.5
8.0
14.0
7.3
18.5
7.2
7.3
22.2
11 – 12 yrs
15.7
0.5
8.0
17.7
7.7
22.2
7.6
7.7
26.0
Fitting NotesLeggings – These are form fitting leggings with negative ease at the waist. This means the finished garment measurements will be tighter than the size chart. They are designed for lycra knit (stretch) fabric so they can stretch around your body and fit comfortably without falling down.
Sports Shorts – The sports shorts are loose fitting with ease built in. They are gathered into the elasticated waist.Materials and ToolsLeggings fabric – These leggings have been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 5-12% lycra/elastane to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are cotton lycra, nylon lycra, jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of Lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit. To achieve compression fit, we recommend 18-20% Lycra/elastane.
Sports shorts fabric – The shorts can be made in a lightweight cotton or a stretch fabric, or even a rayon, airtex or mesh fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sports shorts
12 – 24 mos
0.50
2 – 6 yrs
0.50
7 – 12 yrs
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sports shorts
12 – 24 mos
0.50
2 – 6 yrs
0.50
7 – 12 yrs
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Leggings
Short
Mid thigh
Mid calf
Full length
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
3 – 8 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.00
1.30
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.50
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, cutting mat, tape measure. Optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Leggings Short Length Mid-thigh
lengthMid-calf length Full length OPTIONAL
Short Shorts12 – 24 mos 2-3 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7 4-5, 8-9 2 – 3 yrs 2-3, 7 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7, 10-11 4-5, 8-9 3 – 6 yrs 2-4, 7 2-4, 6-7 2-4, 6-7 2-3, 6-7, 10-11 4-5, 8-9 7 – 10 yrs 2-4, 7 2-4, 6-8 2-4, 6-8, 10-11 2-3, 6-7, 10-11 4-5, 8-9 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 7 2-4, 6-8, 10-11 2-4, 6-8, 10-11 2-3, 6-7, 10-13 4-5, 8-9 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Leggings Short Length Mid-thigh
lengthMid-calf length Full length OPTIONAL
Short Shorts12 – 18 mos 2-3 2-3 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7 4-5, 8-9 18 mos – 3 yrs 2-3 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7 2-3, 6-7 4-5, 8-9 3 – 6 yrs 2-4 2-4, 6-7 2-4, 6-7 2-4, 6-7, 10-11 4-5, 8-9 7 – 10 yrs 2-4 2-4, 6-7 2-4, 6-7, 10-11 2-4, 6-7, 10-11 4-5, 8-9 11 – 12 yrs 2-4 2-4, 6-7 2-4, 6-7, 10-11 2-4, 6-7, 10-13 4-5, 8-9 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Waist Elastic (Cut 1)
Length
12 – 18 mos
17.5
18 – 24 mos
18.5
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- SHORTS BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create double fold bias binding.
- LEGGINGS – Stitch the inseams of a leg piece, right sides together. Repeat for second leg. Turn one leg right side out. Slide this leg into the other leg, matching the rises, right sides together. Stitch. Hem using ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.
- SHORTS: FRONT HEM – Stitch binding to Front hem on each leg.
- SHORTS: SIDE SEAM AND BACK HEM – Stitch Shorts Front to Shorts Back, wrong sides together at side seam. Stitch binding to Back hem and side seam. Repeat for other leg.
- SHORTS: INSEAM – Stitch Shorts Front to Shorts Back at the inseam, using a French seam. Repeat for other leg.
- SHORTS: RISE – Stitch Shorts Front to Shorts Back at the rise, using a French seam.
- LEGGINGS: WAIST ELASTIC – Overlap elastic by 1 inch and stitch. Mark quarter points on elastic and Leggings. Slide elastic over and match points. Stitch.
- SHORTS WITH/WITHOUT LEGGINGS: WAIST ELASTIC – Overlap elastic by 1 inch and stitch. Mark quarter points. Stitch gathering stitches on Shorts. WITHOUT LEGGINGS: Mark quarter points and gather. Slide elastic over and match points. Stitch. Press the seam down. WITH LEGGINGS: Mark quarter points on Shorts. Place Shorts over Leggings, right sides facing out, match and pin quarter points. Gather to fit. Baste. Slide elastic over and match points. Stitch and press the seam down. Remove basting stitches.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ½ inch – Hem – ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ½ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1NOTE – For those who have a coverstitch machine and would like to use this for topstitching, we’ve included a little video to show you how. This video is from the Ladies’ Lily Leggings, but the process is the same. Watch the video here.
0.2Shorts Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create binding to use on the shorts hem.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create double fold bias binding.
1 . Leggings1.0Follow this step if you are sewing the Leggings or the Leggings attached to the Shorts. If you are only sewing the Shorts skip to step 2.
TIP – You may find it easier to hem each leg before following steps 1.1 to 1.5, especially the smaller sizes. Follow steps 1.6 to 1.7, then start at step 1.1.
1.1Fold one Legging piece right sides together, matching the inseams. Pin together.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – Using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch, topstitch ⅛ inch from the stitch line, over the seam allowance, along the inseam.
NOTE – Topstitching seams is particularly helpful for more rigorous use. The topstitching strengthens the seam and helps increase the life of the Leggings.
1.3Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.2 for your second Legging piece.
1.4Turn one leg right side out. Slide this leg into the other leg, matching the front and back rise, right sides together.
Pin the legs together along this curve.
1.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – Using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch, topstitch ⅛ inch from stitch line, over seam allowance, along rise.
1.6Fold the bottom hem of the Leggings up ½ inch to the wrong side and press.
1.7Using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch, stitch the hem of the Leggings.
1.8Repeat steps 1.6 to 1.7 for the second leg hem.
Skip to step 6 if not adding Sports Shorts to Leggings.
2 . Shorts: Front Hem2.0If making the Shorts with or without Leggings, continue here. If you have sewn the Leggings and are not making the Shorts, skip to step 6.
2.1Place your binding along the Front hem, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – The first fold of the binding should match up with the ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – If you are using a long piece of binding, trim it to the required lengths for the binding steps. This will make it easier to manage.
2.2Stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.3Refold the binding along the stitch line and press down toward the hem.
2.4Refold the binding along the middle fold press so the raw edges are all sandwiched in the binding.
From the right side, pin the binding in place.
TIP – Add as many pins as needed to feel secure that the binding on the wrong side will not shift while sewing. This will be sewn from the top, not visible as you stitch.
2.5‘Stitch in the ditch’ to finish the binding.
This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam, just catching the other side of the binding in the stitching which encloses the raw edges. The stitching will not be easily visible on the finished garment.
From the right side of the shorts, stitch slowly and hold the binding and shorts as flat as possible on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished shorts. Occasionally, lift the shorts up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the binding.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Shorts, rather than the binding. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
ALTERNATIVE – If you prefer, you can topstitch on the binding, ⅛ from the top edge of the binding.
2.6Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the second Shorts Front hem.
3 . Shorts: Side Seam and Back Hem3.1Place the Shorts Front onto the Shorts Back, wrong sides together. Pin at the top edge. Match the pointed edge of the Front to the marking on the Back. Pin.
Continue pinning and easing together.
3.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Trim any excess binding from the Front hem.
3.3Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 to add binding to the back hem and side seam.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 for the second leg.
3.5With right sides facing up, stitch as close to the edge of the binding as you can, along the side seam, starting from the waist down to where the Front and Back overlap.
Repeat for the other side.
4 . Shorts: Inseam4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – FOR WOVEN SHORTS – Using a regular sewing machine first, with right sides together, sew the Shorts Front and Back at the inseam, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then finish the edges on the serger. Skip to step 5. FOR KNIT SHORTS – With right sides together, serge the Shorts Front and Back at the inseam, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our Shorts. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
4.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Shorts Front and Back together along the inseam.
4.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.3Carefully trim the seam allowance in half so the raw edge is clean and doesn’t have any uneven threads.
NOTE – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step, all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half, as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also work.
4.4Turn the leg so the right sides are facing, press the inseam. Make sure the previous seam line is as centered as possible along the fold. Pin.
TIP – Press the seam allowances toward the back before turning the shorts right sides together. This makes it much easier to pinch the seam flat and get a nice crisp edge to the French seam. It also makes the seam allowance sit flat and stay as accurate as possible.
4.5Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam).
Press the seam allowance towards the Back Leg.
4.6Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the other Shorts Front and Back, pressing the seam toward the Front.
5 . Shorts: Rise5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Turn one leg right side out. Slide this leg into the other leg, matching the front and back rise, right sides together. Pin along the curve. FOR WOVEN SHORTS – Using a regular sewing machine first, sew the Shorts Front and Back at the rise, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Then finish the edges on the serger. Skip to step 6. FOR KNIT SHORTS – Serge the Shorts Front and Back at the rise, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all the raw edges along the rise.
5.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), pin the Shorts Front and Back together along the rise.
5.2Repeat steps 4.2 to 4.5 to stitch a french seam along the rise.
6 . Leggings: Waist Elastic6.0Follow this step if you are sewing just the Leggings. If you are sewing the Shorts or Shorts with Leggings, skip to step 7.
6.1Overlap elastic by 1 inch, creating a loop.
NOTE – Make sure there are no twists in the loop.
FIT CHECK – Before stitching the elastic together, check the elastic fits correctly.
6.2Using a zigzag stitch, stitch a box where the elastic overlaps.
TIP – When sewing the raw edges of the elastic, let the stitches fall off the edge of the elastic to cover the raw edge and help prevent fraying.
6.3Mark the quarter points on the elastic loop.
6.4Mark the quarter points of the Leggings.
6.5Slide the elastic over the Shorts, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
Add additional pins as needed.
6.6Stretching elastic to fit, serge or stitch with a stretch stitch, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – If using a serger, turn off the blade to prevent cutting off any elastic.
Press seam allowance down.
OPTIONAL – Using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch, topstitch ⅛ inch from stitch line, over seam allowance, all the way around the waist seam.
Your Leggings are now finished!
7 . Shorts with/without Leggings: Waist Elastic7.0Follow this step to sew just the shorts waist elastic or the shorts with leggings waist elastic.
7.1Overlap elastic by 1 inch, creating a loop.
NOTE – Make sure there are no twists in the loop.
FIT CHECK – Before stitching the elastic together, check the elastic fits correctly.
NOTE – If you are using a lurex elastic it will scratch the skin. Cover each end of the elastic with a piece of fabric before pinning and stitching together, to prevent this from happening.
7.2Using a zigzag stitch, stitch a box where the elastic overlaps.
TIP – When sewing the raw edges of the elastic, let the stitches fall off the edge of the elastic to cover the raw edge and help prevent fraying.
7.3Mark the quarter points on the elastic loop.
7.4Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the Shorts waist edge.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ⅛ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitch ¼ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction, as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those leftover bobbin threads!
7.5Mark the quarter points of the Shorts.
7.6SHORTS WITH LEGGINGS OPTION: Skip to step 7.7.
SHORTS WITHOUT LEGGINGS OPTION: Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Shorts.
Gather all the way across the quarter you started with, until the Shorts are the same width as the elastic, gently spreading out the gathers.
Continue gathering the Shorts along each quarter.
Then skip to step 7.11.
7.7SHORTS WITH LEGGINGS OPTION: Place the Shorts over the Leggings, both with right sides facing out, match and pin quarter points.
7.8Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Shorts.
Gather all the way across the quarter you started with, until the Shorts are the same width as the Leggings.
Gently spread out the gathers on the Shorts.
Continue gathering the Shorts along each quarter of the Leggings.
7.9Baste the Shorts to the Leggings, using ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – We are using a ½ inch seam allowance here so when we add the elastic with the ⅜ inch seam allowance, the basting stitch will still be quite easy to remove.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
7.10Mark the quarter points along the waist edge of the Shorts and Leggings.
7.11NOTE – The steps are the same from this step onwards for either option (Shorts with or without Leggings), however, the images only show the Shorts with Leggings.
Slide the elastic over the waist, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.
Add additional pins as needed.
7.12Stretching the elastic to fit, serge or stitch with a stretch stitch, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – For woven shorts sewn on a regular machine, use a zigzag or overlock stitch over the edge next to the seam just sewn. This will finish raw edges.
NOTE – If using a serger, turn off the blade to prevent cutting off any elastic.
7.13Press the seam allowance down.
SHORTS WITH LEGGINGS: Remove the basting stitches from step 7.9.
7.14OPTIONAL – Using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch, topstitch ⅛ inch from stitch line, over seam allowance, all the way around the waist seam.
Your Sports Shorts and Leggings are finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Sports Shorts and Leggings are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpsportsshortsandleggings.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewSports Shorts and Leggings
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Sports Shorts and Leggings can be sewn together or worn as separate pieces – the perfect addition to your workout wardrobe. The curved side seam shorts are gathered slightly into the waist, with bound seams and an exposed elastic waistband. The one seam plain leggings have four length options; shorts, mid-thigh, mid-calf or full length. They can be joined together at the natural waist with an exposed elastic.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Hip
Back rise
Front rise
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
12 – 18 mos
16.50
24.00
8.20
6.30
15.00
0.75
18 – 24 mos
17.50
25.00
8.50
6.50
15.30
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
18.00
26.00
8.60
6.70
15.70
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
19.00
27.00
8.70
7.00
16.20
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
20.00
28.20
9.00
7.20
17.00
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
21.00
29.50
9.30
7.50
17.70
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
22.00
30.50
9.70
8.00
18.70
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
23.00
32.00
10.10
8.30
19.70
0.75
ALL Length Leggings
Waist
Hip
Back rise
Front rise
12 – 18 mos
16.5
16.2
7.2
5.0
18 – 24 mos
17.5
17.2
7.3
5.1
2 – 3 yrs
18.0
18.6
7.5
5.3
3 – 4 yrs
19.0
19.5
7.7
5.5
5 – 6 yrs
20.0
21.5
8.0
5.7
7 – 8 yrs
21.0
23.1
8.2
6.1
9 – 10 yrs
22.0
25.6
8.6
6.3
11 – 12 yrs
23.0
27.2
9.0
6.7
Short
Mid Thigh
Mid Calf
Full Length
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
Hem circum
ference
Inseam
Hem circum
ference
Calf
Inseam
12–18 mos
9.7
0.5
8.0
1.7
5.7
6.0
4.1
5.7
10.2
18–24 mos
10.5
0.5
8.0
2.5
6.0
7.0
4.5
6.0
10.7
2 – 3 yrs
11.3
0.5
8.0
4.5
6.2
9.0
5.0
6.2
12.6
3 – 4 yrs
11.7
0.5
8.0
5.6
6.5
10.0
5.5
6.5
13.5
5 – 6 yrs
12.7
0.5
8.0
8.5
6.7
13.0
6.1
6.7
16.7
7 – 8 yrs
13.5
0.5
8.0
13.0
7.0
15.5
6.7
7.0
19.2
9 – 10 yrs
14.7
0.5
8.0
14.0
7.3
18.5
7.2
7.3
22.2
11 – 12 yrs
15.7
0.5
8.0
17.7
7.7
22.2
7.6
7.7
26.0
Materials and ToolsLeggings fabric – These leggings have been designed for 4-way stretch knit fabrics with 5-12% lycra/elastane to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are cotton lycra, nylon lycra, jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of Lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit. To achieve compression fit, we recommend 18-20% Lycra/elastane.
Sports shorts fabric – The shorts can be made in a lightweight cotton or a stretch fabric, or even a rayon, airtex or mesh fabric.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sports shorts
12 – 24 mos
0.50
2 – 6 yrs
0.50
7 – 12 yrs
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Sports shorts
12 – 24 mos
0.50
2 – 6 yrs
0.50
7 – 12 yrs
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Leggings
Short
Mid thigh
Mid calf
Full length
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.75
1.00
2 – 3 yrs
0.50
0.75
0.75
1.00
3 – 8 yrs
0.50
0.75
1.00
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.00
1.30
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
1.00
1.50
1.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Waistband Elastic – minimum width of 1 inch wide, however different widths can be used to create different looks. Approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- ½ inch wide Double fold bias binding – approximately 2.5 yards will be sufficient for all sizes. NOTE – This is only needed for the Sports Shorts. You can use knit binding for knit Shorts or woven binding for woven Shorts.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins or clips, cutting mat, tape measure. Optional serger/overlocker.