Children’s Sweater Cape

Sweater Cape

Difficulty Level = Beginner

This is a gorgeous loose fitting cape with a loose deep funnel collar. The sides and hems are finished with wide bands. The cape drapes from your shoulders, or add the optional sleeves and the cape will drape from the underarm for a sweater-like feel.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

This is a very loose fitting cape with a deep rolled collar and optional fitted sleeves.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – Choose your size using the chest measurement from the size chart. As this is a very loose fitting garment it is unlikely that you will need to grade for your waist and hip if they are in a different size. If your child falls into a different size for height, use the bodice length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together.
• OPTIONAL Sleeve:
  • Length – Measure from the top of your shoulder to your wrist with your arm slightly bent. Add/remove length at the bottom of the Sleeve before it meets the Cuff. 
  • Bicep adjustment – Check your bicep measurement in the chart above. If you need to add into the bicep of the Sleeve, follow our free tutorial.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. 
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the Front, Back, 1x Sleeve, and Cuff. Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy. 
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Your cape fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. You can use a 2 or 4-way stretch.

A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are textured knit, sweater knits, medium weight jersey, viscose, ponte, scuba, stretch velour and stretch French terry. 

TIP – If you are using a textured knit, especially a cable knit, they may seem smaller in width. Let it hang, then steam it and let it cool before cutting. This should help it expand to its full width.

* Do not use a woven fabric.

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• OPTIONAL 1 ½ inch-wide Buttons x 4
• OPTIONAL clear elastic – ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, disappearing-ink pen, or tailors chalk. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Neckband – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Hemband – Fabric cut 2 on fold
• Side Band – Fabric cut 2 on fold
• OPTIONAL Sleeve:
  • Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
  • Cuff – Fabric cut 2 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included  

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. HEMBANDS – Fold a Hemband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Pin long edge. Lay Front right side facing up. Place the Hemband at the hem edge, right sides together. Pin. Stitch. Repeat to attach the second Hemband to the Back.
2. SHOULDERS – WITHOUT SLEEVES: Place Front and Back right sides together, aligning the shoulder. Stitch. Repeat on the other shoulder. Skip to step 4. SLEEVE OPTION: Place Front and Back right sides together, aligning the shoulders. Pin from the neckline to the first marking, then from the second marking to the end of the shoulder. Stitch from the neckline to the first notch, then stitch from second marking to the end. Repeat on the other shoulder.
3. OPTIONAL SLEEVE – Fold Sleeve in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the sleeve seam. Find and mark quarter points on top edge of Sleeve and the gap. Place Sleeve inside Cape, right sides together. Match top center of Sleeve to top pattern marking and sleeve seam to lower pattern marking. Match the remaining quarter points, easing the Sleeve. Stitch. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
4. SIDE BANDS – Fold Side Band in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch short edges. Turn right sides out. Pin long raw edges wrong sides together. Lay Cape right side facing up. Place Side Band onto the side, right sides together. Stitch. Repeat with the other Side Band.
5. NECKBAND – Fold the Neckband in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the shorter edges together. Fold your Neckband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Find and pin quarter points of Neckband and neckline. Turn Cape wrong side out. Place Neckband inside Cape, right sides together, matching quarter points. Stitch.
6. OPTIONAL SLEEVE: CUFF – Fold the Cuff in half widthwise, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch. Fold in half lengthwise wrong sides together. Find and mark the quarter points of the Cuff and Sleeve. Place Cuff over Sleeve, right sides together, matching raw edges, seams and quarter points. Stitch. Repeat for the other Sleeve.
7. OPTIONAL BUTTONS – Fold Cape in half horizontally and mark middle point on Side Bands on the front and back. Place a button at this marking on both sides (front and back). Hand stitch the buttons through both sides. Repeat on the other side of your Cape. OPTIONAL: If you would prefer purely decorative buttons, stitch one to each bottom edge of the Side Band on both sides on the front and back.

Congratulations, your Sweater Cape is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpsweatercape.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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