Children's Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress

Labels

Transfer all labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. 

OPTIONAL Bias Binding

If you are not using store bought binding, you’ll need to create double fold bias binding to finish the seams of the mid-calf and maxi length dresses.

Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the Center Front and a Side Front pieces right sides together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat to attach the other Side Front. Serge Back pieces to Side Front, just as you did with Front. Serge Back pieces together at the center back seam. If you are doing the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 2. If you are doing the Elastic Channel OPTION, skip to step 3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You are going to use a French seam to stitch the Bodice together. This will hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.

Lay the Center Front wrong sides facing up. Place a Side Front wrong sides together. Pin. 

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim your seam allowance in half. 

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. Try to trim your seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. 

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so you can’t see them (a French seam). 

Turn right side out and press as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 to attach the second Side Front onto the other side of the Center Front.

Stitch a Side Front to a Back piece using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Repeat step 1.7 to attach the other Side Front and Back pieces.

Stitch the Back pieces together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

If you are doing the Shirred OPTION, follow below. If you are doing the Elastic Channel OPTION, skip to step 3.

Fold the top edge of the Bodice ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. 

Fold another ¼ inch, enclosing all raw edges. Press. Pin in place.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the edge. 

Now you are going to do the shirring. If you are familiar with how to do shirring, skip ahead to step 2.9.

If you are new to shirring, first you need to prepare your bobbin. It is your bobbin that the shirring elastic goes into. Use regular thread on the top part of your sewing machine.

Take an empty bobbin and gently start winding the elastic around it by hand. Leave the end of the elastic hanging off and just hold it out of the way. Wind several times around the bobbin.

Once you have wound the elastic over itself a couple of times, you will find it secure enough that you can cut the trailing piece from the beginning off.

Continue to wind the rest of your bobbin with the elastic. Go gently and slowly, being careful not to pull or stretch the elastic as you wind. 

Stop when the bobbin is about three quarters full. Do not put too much on there so that the elastic bulges out over the edge of the bobbin.

Put your bobbin into your machine as you would normally.

If you have a top loading machine, check that the elastic is running through the tension notch just like regular thread would. If it is not running through there you will find the elastic makes squiggly lines on the back of the fabric and it won’t gather nicely.

Continue to set your machine up as you normally would when you change your bobbin thread.

For most top-loading machines you will find it easier to get it all set up and put the bobbin cover on last, once the thread is up under the presser foot. If you have a side loading machine, just do things as you normally would.

Now practice, practice, practice.

Before you go any further, I highly recommend you test your shirring elastic by sewing a scrap of fabric to make sure it is set up how you want it.

On some sewing machines you will find your regular straight stitch will be fine. On some machines you will need to lengthen your stitch slightly. Not all the way, but just a little. Practice until you are happy with how your stitching looks.

TIP – Make sure to use a locking or back stitch at the beginning of each row. If you don’t do this, the elastic can slip out along the row and unravel your stitches.

If this is your first time doing shirring, I also recommend your practice several rows of shirring on a scrap piece of fabric before you do your actual shirring on the garment. This is much easier than having to unpick if you make a mistake!

NOTE – If you make a mistake, the easiest way to unpick shirring elastic is to snip through the elastic at the beginning right next to your locking stitch. Repeat at the other end. Then pull out enough elastic for you to get a hold of it with your fingers. Next, pull the elastic all the way through. The thread on the other side will just fall off once the elastic has been removed. 

NOTE – Shirring elastic is much, much thicker than thread.  This means your full bobbin won’t last as long as a typical bobbin.  Please double check before starting each line of shirring that you will have enough elastic on your bobbin to complete that row.  

With the right side of the fabric facing up, stitch a straight line all the way across the Bodice top edge, approximately ½ inch from the finished edge.

The right side will look like regular stitching; the back will have the elastic on it, so that it gathers the fabric.

Stitch three more rows next to the first one to give the ‘shirred’ effect. 

TIP – Try to sew the rows an equal distance from each from each other.

You can space your rows as close or as far apart as you wish. For the look in the photos, space them ⅜ inch apart from each other.

TIP – You can use the edge of your presser foot (or as a marking on your presser foot depending on the model) as a guide. Keep the previous row of shirring lined up with the edge of the foot as you sew, and you will get perfectly straight lines!

TIP – Use the steam from your iron to cause the shirring to tighten up and gather more.

Skip to step 4.

If you are doing the Elastic Channel OPTION, follow below. If you have done the Shirred OPTION, skip to step 4 for Ties. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press seams to the back. The Facing will now form a circle. Serge the bottom edge of the Facing. Fold it ½ to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Lay the Bodice right side up. Place the Facing right sides together, aligning the side seams. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press. Skip to step 3.9. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.

Place the Front and Back Facing pieces right sides together, matching the short edges. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowances open. 

Your Facing will now form a circle. 

Fold the bottom edge of the Facing ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. 

Fold another ¼ inch and press. Pin in place. 

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Lay the Bodice right side up. Place the Facing so the right sides are together, aligning the side seams. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Fold the Facing over the Bodice, wrong sides together. Press the seam. 

Stitch ½ inch from the top edge of the Bodice, creating the top of the elastic channel.

Stitch a second row at the bottom of the facing stitching directly on top of the topstitching from step 3.6. Leave a ½ to 1 inch gap to thread the elastic through. 

Pin a safety pin onto the end of the elastic and thread it into your channel, overlapping the ends by ½ an inch. Pin together.

FIT CHECK – Try the Bodice on to check the fit of the elastic. Adjust the elastic if needed. 

Stitch the elastic together, stitching back and forth 3-4 times to secure the elastic.

TIP – Check that your elastic has not twisted in the channel before stitching the ends together.

Stitch the gap closed, matching the seam from step 3.10.

These steps are the same for either Tie width – Thin or Wide. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Fold a Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 4.4. Repeat for other three Ties.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Fold a Tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Pin one short edge and the long raw edge.

Stitch the pinned edges using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

NOTE – You are leaving one short edge unstitched for turning.

Trim the corner to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn your Tie right way out. If you have a favorite method to do this, please use it. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it. 

TIP – It is best to use a blunt object like a chopstick. 

Open the seam allowance stitched in step 4.2 on the short edge. Insert the chopstick until it reaches the stitching. 

Push the Tie over the chopstick, pushing the Tie all the way over the chopstick, until it is turned right side out. Push the chopstick back out through the gap.

Fold the open short edge ½ inch inside the Tie and pin. Press the whole Tie.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.5 for the other three Ties. 

Place a Tie onto the seam of the Side Front. Pin. Repeat to place a second Tie onto the other Side Front seam. 

Place a third Tie onto the Back approximately ⅜ inch in from the Side Front seam. Pin. Repeat to place the fourth Tie on the other side.

FIT CHECK – Try the Bodice on and check the placement of the Ties. As we are all shaped differently, this placement may not be the best placement for you. Adjust accordingly. 

Stretch the Bodice only where attaching the Ties. Stitch all Ties in place using a ½ inch seam allowance from the top edge of the Bodice. 

TIP – Backstitch on both sides of the Tie to secure it. 

This step is the same for all length options.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Finish the edge of the hem with the serger. Fold the hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Fold the bottom edge of the Bodice ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. 

Fold another ¼ inch and press.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

You will need the first Tier for all length options.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Tier 1 pieces right sides together. Pin the short edges. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge the top edge. Fold it ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. Skip to step 6.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Stitch the two Tier 1 pieces together at the short edges using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to enclose the top raw edge.

You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top edge of the Tier. 

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Take the Tier and stitch the first row of gathering stitches ⅜ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the previous gathering stitch line (⅝ inch from the top edge). 

TIP – Start and stop at each side seam. This will make it easier to gather.

Find and mark the quarter points of Tier 1 and the bottom edge of the Bodice. Place Tier 1 with the wrong side facing the right side of the bottom edge of the Bodice, matching quarter points. The Bodice hem will sit in between the two rows of gathering stitches. Pin.

Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather in between each quarter until the width of the top edge of Tier 1 matches the width of the bottom of the Bodice. 

Carefully spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. 

Stitch Tier 1 onto the Bodice in between the two rows of gathering stitches. 

NOTE – Remember to change your length of stitches to a normal length before stitching.

Remove the two rows of gathering stitches. 

If you are sewing the mid-calf or maxi lengths, skip to step 7.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to enclose the bottom raw edge.

Your Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress is finished!

If you are sewing the mid-calf or maxi length you will need to follow this step.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place two Tier 2 pieces right sides together. Pin the short edges. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat until all four pieces are stitched together. Follow steps 7.3 to 7.6. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Serge raw edges. MAXI LENGTH: Repeat for Tier 3 pieces. BOTH LENGTHS: Serge the hem edge. Fold it ½ inch to the wrong side. Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below. 

Stitch two Tier 2 pieces together at one short edge using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Repeat to stitch the other two Tier 2 pieces together at one short edge.

You will now have 2x Tier 2 pieces stitched together at one short edge.

Stitch the Tier 2 pieces together at the short edges using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Press.

Your Tier 2 will now form a circle. 

You are going to sew two rows of gathering stitches on the top raw edge of the Tier.

Set your sewing machine to a gather stitch. This will be the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end and will have loose tension.

Depending on your machine, you may also need to loosen your bobbin tension.

Take the Tier and stitch the first row of gathering stitches ⅛ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches approximately ¼ inch from the previous gathering stitch line.

Find and mark the quarter points of Tier 1 and Tier 2. 

Place the top edge (with gathering stitches) of Tier 2 onto the bottom raw edge of Tier 1, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.

Gently pull on the bobbin threads to gather in between each quarter until the width of the top edge of Tier 2 matches the width of the bottom of Tier 1. 

Gently spread them out so that it is gathered evenly. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Remove the gathering stitches.

From the right side of the garment, press the seam up, making sure not to flatten the gathers.

If you are sewing the mid-calf length, skip to step 7.11. If you are sewing the maxi length, follow below.

MAXI LENGTH: Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.3 to stitch Tier 3 into a circle.

Find and mark the quarter points of Tier 2 and Tier 3.

Place the top edge (with gathering stitches) of Tier 3 onto the bottom raw edge of Tier 2, right sides together, matching quarter points. Pin.

Repeat steps 7.6 to 7.8 to gather and stitch Tier 2 and 3 together.

BOTH LENGTHS: To finish the seams between the Tiers, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch. If you wish to do either of these, do this now, then skip to step 7.18.

Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind them using bias tape as follows:

Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and fold one short side under ¼ inch.

Place the bias tape right sides down onto Tier 2, matching raw edges. The fold line on the bias tape should match the seam. Pin.

Continue pinning the bias tape all the way along the seam line of Tier 2, overlapping the ends by ½ inch. Pin.

Trim the excess bias tape.

Stitch along the fold on the bias tape. 

NOTE – Your stitching should be directly on top of the Tier seam.

Trim the seam allowance of the Tiers.

Fold the bias over the seam, enclosing all raw edges.  Pin.

Topstitch along the bias, making sure not to catch the dress under your stitches. Press the covered seam allowance up and away from the Tier.

MAXI LENGTH: Repeat steps 7.11 to 7.17 to bind the raw edges of Tier 3. 

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 to enclose the bottom raw edge of the last Tier.

Your Tie Shoulder Tiered Dress is finished!