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Home / Childrens / Dress Up and Costume, Garments, Skirts
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
3
Children’s Tutu Skirt
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This childrens tutu skirt pattern has three frilly tiers and is approximately knee length. It has an elasticised waistband and the option to make the skirt extra full, as well as optional ruffle detailing, bow, and lining.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes newborn-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- “Full” – This is a three tiered, approximately knee length skirt, with an optional lace or trim gather on the hem. It is suitable for any light to medium weight woven fabric. This look has an optional lining.
- “Super Full” – This is a very, very, full skirt! It has three tiers plus a ruffle on the bottom. The top tier needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. The bottom two tiers and ruffle are suitable for very lightweight wovens such as soft tulle or chiffon only.
- Size varies in different countries and stores, so please measure the model before picking a size. The ready-to-wear size the model normally fits into may be different from our size chart. Use the size that the WAIST measurement falls into.
- The finished length will be approximately knee length.
- There is an option included to use 6 inch rolls of tulle to create your tiers. Choosing not to cut the rolls of tulle to the width recommended is an option, however, the skirt will be longer than knee length.
- If the model’s measurements fall into different sizes for waist and height, use the layers feature to print those sizes. The pattern pieces are all rectangles that can be adjusted to get a perfect fit and length. Grade between the sizes by drawing a line from the size for the waist measurement to the size for the height.
- For example, the model’s measurements fall into size 5-6 for waist, but size 9-10 for height.
- Print both the 5-6 years and 9-10 years pattern pieces using layers (or reference both on the cutting chart if not using the pattern pieces).
- Then use the height of each pattern piece from sizes 9-10 years (e.g. the vertical measurement). And the width of each pattern piece from sizes 5-6 years (e.g. the horizontal measurement).
- If possible, try the Tutu Skirt on at step 7.6 for the Full option, and step 6.4 for the Super Full option to check the fit of the elastic. Adjust as needed.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- You can either color block (e.g. use a different color/fabric for each tier) or use the same fabric for all tiers.
- Suitable for most woven fabrics.
- Since the skirt will be gathered significantly, a light or medium weight woven fabric is recommended. For example: satin, cotton, quilting cotton, chiffon, georgette, rayon, crepe, crepe de chine.
- This is the trim that can be stitched flat onto the hem of the “Full” Tutu Skirt. Examples are lace, ribbon, and ric-rac.
- A ¼ inch wide ribbon is used in the tutorial, but any width or style can be used.
- This is the fabric that will form the waistband and top layer of the skirt.
- Suitable for most woven fabrics.
- Since the skirt will be gathered significantly, it is recommended to use a light or medium weight woven fabric. For example: satin, cotton, quilting cotton, chiffon, georgette, rayon, crepe, crepe de chine.
- In the chart below and the rest of the pattern, this is referred to as ‘Fabric’.
- This is the fabric that will form the lower layers of the skirt.
- Most lightweight woven fabric can be used. For example: chiffon, georgette, netting, and rayon.
- Make sure to consider the ‘scratchiness’ of the fabric. If a lining is not used, this will be directly against the skin. If a scratchy fabric such as netting is used, consider adding the lining option.
- Also consider the color, weight, and how see through the fabric may be. In pre-testing, this was made in a light pink tulle with no lining and the bottom part of the skirt was quite see-through. This was ok as a dress up skirt but would not be suitable to wear on its own as a regular garment. However, when made using a dark blue tulle with no lining, it was fairly opaque and could be worn as a regular garment with just tights or bare legs. To ensure that the skirt is not see through, adding a lining is recommended.
- In the chart below and the rest of the pattern, this is referenced as ‘Tulle’.
- Tulle is often sold by the 6-inch-wide roll. All pattern pieces in all sizes are less than 6 inches in height. For some sizes the strip can be cut in half along its length and the leftover can be used for another piece.
- Note – in the instructions you’ll notice the Super Full version is made from a lightweight cotton. This is possible but we would recommend using no lining and finishing all seams with either a serger or a zig zag stitch.
- The lining is a gathered skirt that attaches to the bottom of Tier 1. The purpose of the lining is to make sure there is a soft fabric next to the legs when using a scratchy fabric for the lower Tiers and Ruffle. It also prevents the skirt from being see-through.
- Any lightweight woven fabric can be used.
- 1 inch wide elastic (see lengths in cutting chart)
- 1.5-inch-wide ribbon for the optional bow on the waistband (see lengths in cutting chart)
- Thread to match
- Tier 1 – 1x Fabric on fold
- Tier 2 – 1x Fabric on fold
- Tier 3 – 1x Fabric on fold
- 1x Waist Elastic
- 1x Optional Ribbon
- 1x Optional Hem Trim (see lengths in Materials & Tools section)
- 1x Optional Lining
- Tier 1 – 1x Fabric
- Tier 2 – 2x Tulle
- Tier 3 – 2x Tulle
- Ruffle – 2x Tulle
- 1x Waist Elastic
- 1x Optional Ribbon
- 1x Optional Lining
- Do not use old thread! It is so important to use fresh, new thread so it doesn’t snap while you’re gathering.
- The tulle from the Super Full option is easier to deal with in sections. Cut each tier 2, tier 3 and ruffle into 4 equal sections. Then gather and assemble each of these sections as per the pattern. When you come to attach tier 2 to tier 1, either stitch the 4 sections of tier 2 together, or simply overlap them.
- For the Super Full option, you can cut the ruffle into as many sections as you like, just overlapping them as you gather and stitch them on. There’s so much tulle, you can hardly see the overlapping join in the finished garment.
- When constructing the waistband (Super Full Option), sew the elastic casing first, leaving the first 2 inches at each end unsewn. Then after sewing the back seam together, insert elastic and close that gap, per the instructions.
- If you prefer, you can sew the Super Full option in reverse order (e.g. stitch the waistband, then stitch tier 1 to the waistband, then tier 2 to tier 1 etc.). However beware that it’s harder to gather and attach the bottom layers when the top layers are not laying flat (e.g. when they’re already gathered). The order of the tutorial sounds a little odd, but it’s the easiest way if you are gathering by hand. If you are gathering by machine (e.g. using a ruffling foot for example), you can assemble the Super Full option in any order you like.
- In most RP patterns, the raw edges are hidden or enclosed. For both options, it’s really tricky to do this with ease. To keep it simple, the edges are left raw in the Super Full option, and either zig zag stitched or serged in the Full option. If you want to enclose them instead, use bias tape to bind all seams with raw edges.
Project OverviewTutu Skirt
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Tutu Skirt makes a great dress up item, party skirt or even a fancy every-day skirt!
It is formed entirely of gathered rectangles, use the cutting chart, or the provided pattern pieces.
There are two options:
When you are selecting which version you wish to do, please note, there is a LOT of tulle in the super full version. It is absolutely stunning, but it is not for the faint-hearted!
We highly recommend either option, but if you are doing the Super Full option, we also highly recommend starting with lots of patience, going carefully, labeling all your pieces and making sure not to mix any of the strips up. They’re very long if you get them twisted or have to try and figure out which piece of tulle goes with which layer.
Both options have a gathered elastic waistband that pulls on, with an optional ribbon bow at the waist.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Length (from top of waistband to hem)
With elastic inserted (finished)
Without elastic inserted (not finished)
0 – 3 mos
14.0
32.0
6.3
3 – 6 mos
15.0
34.0
6.9
6 – 12 mos
16.0
35.0
7.9
12 – 18 mos
16.5
37.0
8.6
18 – 24 mos
17.5
39.0
9.2
2 – 3 yrs
18.5
42.0
10.3
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
44.0
11.9
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
47.0
13.5
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
49.0
14.6
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
51.0
15.5
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
53.0
16.4
Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsOption A – “Full”
Fabric for all Tiers and Waistband
Optional Hem Trim
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
No Color Blocking
Color Blocking
All three Tiers
Tier 1
Tier 2
Tier 3
0 – 3 mos
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
5 – 6 yrs
1.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
1.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
1.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
1.75
0.50
0.50
1.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
No Color Blocking
Color Blocking
All three Tiers
Tier 1
Tier 2
Tier 3
OPTIONAL
Lining
0 – 3 mos
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
* Fabric requirements are worked out using the most economical cutting options as per the cutting instructions.
** If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
*** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.OPTIONAL Hem Trim
0 – 3 mos
3.60
3 – 6 mos
3.80
6 – 12 mos
3.90
12 – 18 mos
4.10
18 – 24 mos
4.30
2 – 3 yrs
4.70
3 – 4 yrs
4.90
5 – 6 yrs
5.10
7 – 8 yrs
5.30
9 – 10 yrs
5.60
11 – 12 yrs
5.80
Option B – “Super Full”
Tier 1 (Fabric)
Tiers 2 & 3 and Ruffle (Tulle)
OPTIONAL Lining
Option B “Super Full”
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Tulle
OPTIONAL Lining
0 – 3 mos
0.25
2.50
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.25
2.75
0.50
6 – 12 mos
0.25
3.00
0.50
12 – 18 mos
0.25
3.00
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.25
3.00
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
3.50
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
4.00
0.50
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
4.50
0.50
7 – 8 yrs
0.75
4.75
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
5.00
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
5.50
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Tulle
OPTIONAL Lining
0 – 3 mos
0.25
1.75
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.25
2.00
0.25
6 – 12 mos
0.25
2.25
0.25
12 – 18 mos
0.25
2.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.25
2.75
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
2.75
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.25
3.25
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
3.25
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
0.50
3.75
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
4.00
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
4.00
1.00
By the Roll (6 inch wide)
Yards
Rolls (100 yards per roll)
0 – 3 mos
114.0
2.0
3 – 6 mos
120.0
2.0
6 – 12 mos
125.0
2.0
12 – 18 mos
131.0
2.0
18 – 24 mos
120.0
2.0
2 – 3 yrs
129.0
2.0
3 – 4 yrs
136.0
2.0
5 – 6 yrs
141.0
2.0
7 – 8 yrs
147.0
2.0
9 – 10 yrs
154.0
2.0
11 – 12 yrs
159.0
2.0
* Fabric requirements are worked out using the most economical cutting options as per the cutting instructions.
** If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
*** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.For both options, you will also need:
Tools needed: sewing machine, scissors, measuring tape. Optional, but not required: fray stop or other method for sealing a ribbon, serger or overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions (in INCHES) for the rectangular pieces are below:
Option A “Full”
Tier 1
(Fabric cut 1)
Tier 2
(Fabric cut 1)
Tier 3
(Fabric cut 1)
OPTIONAL
LiningWidth
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
0 – 3 mos
32.0
4.4
64.0
2.2
128.0
2.2
50.0
4.4
3 – 6 mos
34.0
4.6
68.0
2.4
136.0
2.4
53.0
4.8
6 – 12 mos
35.0
5.0
70.0
2.7
140.0
2.7
54.0
5.4
12 – 18 mos
37.0
5.2
74.0
3.1
148.0
3.1
57.0
5.9
18 – 24 mos
39.0
5.4
78.0
3.1
156.0
3.1
60.0
6.2
2 – 3 yrs
42.0
6.1
84.0
3.5
168.0
3.5
65.0
7.0
3 – 4 yrs
44.0
6.4
88.0
4.0
176.0
4.0
68.0
8.0
5 – 6 yrs
46.0
7.0
92.0
4.5
184.0
4.5
71.0
9.0
7 – 8 yrs
48.0
7.4
96.0
5.1
192.0
5.1
74.0
9.7
9 – 10 yrs
50.0
7.7
100.0
5.1
200.0
5.1
77.0
10.3
11 – 12 yrs
52.0
8.0
104.0
5.4
208.0
5.4
81.0
10.8
For the Lining and Fabric, when using a stable, non-directional woven, the grainline can be aligned either horizontally or vertically on the pattern piece to optimize fabric usage.If necessary, cut strips of fabric and then join them together into one long strip until they measure the length listed above.Waist Elastic
(1 inch wide)
Ribbon
(1.5 inches wide)
0 – 3 mos
15.0
29.0
3 – 6 mos
16.0
30.0
6 – 12 mos
17.0
31.0
12 – 18 mos
17.5
32.0
18 – 24 mos
18.5
33.0
2 – 3 yrs
19.5
34.0
3 – 4 yrs
21.0
35.0
5 – 6 yrs
22.0
36.0
7 – 8 yrs
23.0
37.0
9 – 10 yrs
24.0
38.0
11 – 12 yrs
25.0
39.0
Option A “Full” Cutting Checklist:
OPTION B – “Super Full”
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:Tier 1
(Fabric cut 1)
Tier 2
(Tulle cut 2)
Tier 3
(Tulle cut 2)
Ruffle
(Tulle cut 2)
OPTIONAL Lining
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
Width
Height
0 – 3 mos
33.0
4.3
132.0
2.2
397.0
2.2
991.0
2.0
50.0
4.4
3 – 6 mos
35.0
4.7
140.0
2.4
421.0
2.4
1053.0
2.0
53.0
4.8
6 – 12 mos
36.0
5.5
145.0
2.7
434.0
2.7
1084.0
2.0
54.0
5.4
12 – 18 mos
38.0
6.0
153.0
2.9
458.0
2.9
1146.0
2.0
57.0
5.9
18 – 24 mos
40.0
6.4
161.0
3.1
483.0
3.1
1208.0
2.0
60.0
6.2
2 – 3 yrs
43.0
7.2
173.0
3.5
520.0
3.5
1301.0
2.0
65.0
7.0
3 – 4 yrs
45.0
8.4
182.0
4.0
545.0
4.0
1363.0
2.0
68.0
8.0
5 – 6 yrs
48.0
9.5
190.0
4.5
570.0
4.5
1425.0
2.0
71.0
9.0
7 – 8 yrs
50.0
10.3
198.0
4.9
595.0
4.9
1487.0
2.0
74.0
9.7
9 – 10 yrs
52.0
10.9
207.0
5.1
620.0
5.1
1549.0
2.0
77.0
10.3
11 – 12 yrs
54.0
11.6
215.0
5.4
644.0
5.4
1611.0
2.0
81.0
10.8
For the Lining and Fabric, when using a stable, non-directional woven, the grainline can be aligned either horizontally or vertically on the pattern piece to optimize fabric usage.If necessary, cut strips of fabric and then join them together into one long strip until they measure the length listed above.TIP – If you do not fancy cutting all those strips of tulle, you could adjust the heights and make your tiers each 6 inches tall (e.g. the height of a pre-cut roll of tulle). That way you just cut the lengths. It will make the finished Tutu skirt longer, but it is much faster! Incidentally to make an adult Tutu that is approximately knee length, cut a tier of fabric that is 13 inches tall for Tier 1 (then fold in two as per the tutorial to form the waistband), then cut two tiers of 6 inch high tulle and add a 2 inch ruffle of tulle on either side of the bottom tier.Waist Elastic
(1 inch wide)
Ribbon
(1.5 inches wide)
0 – 3 mos
16.0
29.0
3 – 6 mos
17.0
30.0
6 – 12 mos
18.0
31.0
12 – 18 mos
18.5
32.0
18 – 24 mos
19.5
33.0
2 – 3 yrs
20.5
34.0
3 – 4 yrs
22.0
35.0
5 – 6 yrs
23.0
36.0
7 – 8 yrs
24.0
37.0
9 – 10 yrs
25.0
38.0
11 – 12 yrs
26.0
39.0
Option B “Super Full” Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips from Testing
This much tulle or fabric can be intimidating to tackle. These are the tips and tricks our testers wanted to share to be sure everyone is successful and happy with these gorgeous tutus!
- + Instructions
- HEM – Turn the hem of Tier 3 ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Turn another ¼ inch, press and topstitch in place.
- OPTIONAL TRIM – Place the trim right side up on the right side of the hem. Topstitch in place.
- TIER 3 – Gather the top of Tier 3 and stitch it to the bottom of Tier 2, with the right sides together.
- OPTIONAL LINING – Gather the Lining. Place the right side of the Lining to the wrong side of Tier 2 and stitch along top edge. Turn the hem of the Lining ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Turn another ¼ inch, press and topstitch in place.
- TIER 2 – Gather the top edge of the Tier 2 piece and attach it to the bottom of Tier 1.
- BACK SEAM – With the right sides together, fold the Tutu in half, matching the seams and stitch. Finish the seam with a zig zag or overlock stitch.
- WAISTBAND – Fold the top of the Tutu ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Turn another 1 ¼ inch, press and topstitch, leaving a 2 inch gap. This creates a casing for the elastic. Thread the elastic through the casing, overlap the ends and zig zag together. Stitch the gap closed.
- OPTIONAL RIBBON – Cut the ends of the ribbon at a 45 degree angle and finish the edges. Stitch the center of the ribbon to the Waistband. Tie the ribbon into a bow and secure by hand or machine stitching.
- OPTIONAL RUFFLE – Gather the Ruffle down the center. Stitch the Ruffle to the bottom of Tier 3. Repeat for the other Ruffle and Tier 3 pieces.
- TIER 3 – Gather the top of Tier 3 and attach it to the bottom of Tier 2, with the right sides together. Repeat for the other Tier 3 and Tier 2 pieces.
- OPTIONAL LINING – Gather the Lining. Place the right side of the Lining to the wrong side of Tier 2 and stitch along the top edge. Turn the hem of the Lining ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Turn another ¼ inch, press and topstitch in place.
- TIER 2 – Gather the top edge of each Tier 2 piece and attach it to either side of Tier 1. Repeat for the other Tier 2 and Tier 1 pieces.
- BACK SEAM – With the right sides together, fold the Tutu in half, matching the seams, and stitch. Finish the seam with a zig zag or overlock stitch.
- WAIST ELASTIC – Fold the Tutu in half along the middle of Tier 1 with the wrong sides together and press. Mark 1 ¼ inches from the fold and stitch along this line leaving a 2 inch gap. This creates a casing for the elastic. Thread the elastic through the casing, overlap the ends and zig zag together. Stitch the gap closed.
- OPTIONAL RIBBON – Cut the ends of the ribbon at a 45 degree angle and finish the edges. Stitch the center of the ribbon to the Waistband. Tie the ribbon into a bow and secure by hand or machine stitching.
- The ruffle and bottom tiers in the Super Full option are constructed from tulle or a non-fraying fabric, so there is no need to finish the edges. For the Full option if you are using a fraying fabric such as cotton, you’ll need to finish the edges.
- The waistband in the Full version is simply turned over at the top and the elastic inserted. The waistband in the Super Full version is formed when you fold tier one in half and stitch a channel along the top. This gives two layers to the skirt and adds to its fullness.
Quick Glance Cheat SheetOption A “Full”
Seam allowances are ½ inch – Hem ½ inchSewing –
Option B “Super Full”
Seam allowances for Tulle section are all ¼ inch – Basting ¼ inch.
Seam allowance for the Lining and joining the skirt into a circle are ½ inch.Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included - Hem ½ inch
0.1We are going to construct the Tutu from the bottom upwards. Each tier is bigger than the one above it. By constructing it from the bottom tier up, the largest tier is sewn first and there is less fabric to manipulate since the upper tiers are not attached yet.
If you would prefer to work from the top downwards, sew the steps in the opposite order. Please note though that in the Super Full option, it can be difficult to attach the lower tiers of ruffle once the higher ones are already gathered and not laying flat anymore.
NOTE – Many of the steps for constructing the Full and Super Full options are the same. You’ll see the same techniques and same photos being used for the two options. If you are making only one skirt, just follow the relevant instructions. If you are making both, the main differences to note are that:
0.2Preparation (Both Options)
If desired, stitch the short ends of the fabric for each Tier together to create the length necessary for that Tier. (See the cutting chart on pages 11-12 for lengths).
NOTE – For the Super Full option, if you find it easier to work in sections, you cannot join them, but simply overlap them when you gather each section.
Then follow either Option A: Full or Option B: Super Full.
0 . Preparation - OPTION ASeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included - Hem ½ inch
0.1In the finished Tutu, the top tier (Tier 1) will be folded over to encase the elastic. Tier 2 is sewn onto Tier 1 and Tier 3 onto Tier 2. You will then sew a back seam to join the pieces together.
1 . Hem1.0Hem the bottom of Tier 3. This is usually done at the end of a sew, but because this is such a full garment, it can be physically demanding and tricky to hem when it is all assembled. Hemming while it is a straight piece of fabric and not yet attached to all the other layers should be easier. To assemble in a more traditional fashion, as described above, sew the steps in the opposite order.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the bottom edge of Tier 3, without removing any length. Turn it under ½ inch, press and topstitch in place. Skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
1.1Turn the hem of Tier 3 under ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
1.2Turn the hem another ¼ inch, press and pin.
Topstitch the hem in place by stitching close to the folded edge.
TIP – The stitching should be the same distance from the bottom of Tier 3, so it looks uniform from the outside. To do this, use the presser foot or a marking on the sewing machine to line up the fabric while stitching.
2 . OPTIONAL Trim2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Do not use a serger for these steps. Follow below on a regular sewing machine.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
2.1With the right side up, pin the Trim to the right side of the hem of Tier 3.
You can attach it how you prefer, however for the look as per these photos, line up the ribbon over the stitching on the hemline then stitch down the center of the ribbon. It’ll end up being level because you’re following stitching you know is already an even distance from the edge.
For wider ribbon I would do the same but line up the bottom of the ribbon with the hemline stitching and stitch along the bottom of the ribbon first, then again, another row of stitches along the top of the ribbon.
For lace, either line it up so the base of the lace is level with the folded edge of the hem or overlapping (whichever you prefer).
2.2When you get back to the beginning, trim the ribbon so it’s approximately 1 inch longer than you need.
Fold the end under by approximately ½ inch.
2.3Pin the folded bit of ribbon in place and then stitch all the way over it back to the beginning.
3 . Tier 33.0Gather the top of Tier 3 and then attach it to the bottom of Tier 2. Tier 3 is approximately three times the length of Tier 2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger that can gather, then gather and stitch Tier 3 to the bottom of Tier 2 using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 3.1-3.6, then serge in place. Remove the gathering stitches and skip to step 4.
GATHERING FOOT OPTION – Gather and stitch Tier 3 to the bottom of Tier 2. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
3.1Fold Tier 3 and Tier 2 in half, and then in half again.
Mark these folded half and quarter points of the top of Tier 3 and the bottom of Tier 2 with pins.
TIP – Alternatively use Tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. This will allow the marks to be visible after gathering the fabric.
3.2Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of Tier 3.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the top edge, and the second row ¾ inch from the edge.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to your bobbin thread. That way you can differentiate them more easily later when you come to gather it. Plus, it’s a great way to use up all those leftover bobbin threads I find I have!
3.3We’ll be stitching the top of Tier 3 to the bottom of Tier 2.
With the right sides together, place Tier 3 upside down on the bottom of Tier 2 and pin them together at the half and quarter points.
Gather Tier 3 to match Tier 2.
TIP – If you haven’t done gathering before, the best way I find to do this is in halves or quarters.
Starting at one end, find the pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the skirt. Gather the skirt all the way across the quarter or half you are working on until Tier 3 in that section fits Tier 2.
You will need to spread the gathering out gently with your fingers, so it looks evenly gathered.
Then move on to the next quarter or half and so on until the whole of Tier 2 has been gathered and now fits Tier 3.
3.4Stitch Tier 3 to Tier 2 using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Remove your gathering stitches.
4 . OPTIONAL Lining4.0To add the Optional Lining, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 5.
Gather the Lining and stitch it to the top edge of Tier 2. The Lining is approximately twice the length of Tier 1.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place your Tier 2 and Lining pieces right sides together. This will ensure that the Lining is facing outwards when the Tutu is complete. If using a serger that can gather, then gather and stitch the Lining to the bottom of Tier 2 using a ¼ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 5. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 4.1 to 4.4 and then skip to step 5.
GATHERING FOOT OPTION – Place Tier 2 and the Lining so that they are both right side facing up. This will ensure that the Lining is facing outwards when the Tutu is complete. Then gather and stitch Tier 2 to the top edge of the Lining.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
4.1Mark the half and quarter points on the top of the Lining, and the top of Tier 2.
4.2Add gathering stitches to the top of Tier 2 following the same method as in step 2.2.
4.3Place the right side of the Lining on the wrong side of Tier 2 and pin together matching up the half and quarter points.
4.4Gather Tier 2 to match the Lining, following the same method as step 1.3.
4.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – No need to finish the raw edges here, as Tier 2 will enclose this edge in step 5.
4.6Remove your gathering stitches.
4.7Fold the raw edge of your Lining ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
4.8Fold another ¼ inch and press.
4.9Topstitch close to the folded edge.
5 . Tier 25.0Gather the top edge of the Tier 2 piece and attach it to the bottom of Tier 1. If you have sewn the OPTIONAL Lining, skip to step 5.3. Tier 2 is approximately two times the length of Tier 1.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger that can gather, then gather and stitch a Tier 2 to each long edge of Tier 1 using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 6. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 5.1 to 5.4, then serge in place. Remove the gathering stitches and skip to step 6.
GATHERING FOOT OPTION – Gather and stitch a Tier 2 piece to each long edge of Tier 1. Skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1Mark the half and quarter points on the top of Tier 2, and the bottom long edge of Tier 1.
5.2Add gathering stitches to the top of Tier 2 following the same method as in step 2.2.
5.3With the right sides together, pin the top of Tier 2 to the bottom of Tier 1 matching up the half and quarter points.
Gather Tier 2 to match Tier 1, following the same method as step 1.3.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Remove your gathering stitches.
OPTIONAL – Serge or zig zag the seam allowance to finish it.
5.4Remove your gathering stitches.
6 . Back Seam6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, fold the Tutu right sides together along the short edges. Serge together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
6.1With the right sides together, fold the Tutu in half, matching the seams.
Make sure the seams between each of the tiers are aligned and pin.
The Tutu will now be a circle.
6.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching along the: Ruffle, Tier 3, Tier 2, Tier1, then down the other Tier 2, Tier 3 and Ruffle pieces.
6.3Use an overlock or zig zag stitch to finish the raw edges of the seam allowance.
NOTE – Your skirt will still look far too wide at this point to fit your child. Don’t worry, you do not need to gather the waistband. When we insert the elastic later on it will make it the correct size.
7 . Waistband7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Do not use a serger for these steps.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
7.1Fold the top edge of the Waistband ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
7.2Fold the Waistband again, this time 1 ¼ inches and press.
7.3Topstitch close to the folded edge, leaving a 2 inch gap for inserting the elastic into in the next step.
NOTE – This will form the casing for the elastic.
7.4Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Pin the other end of the elastic to the fabric, so that it does not slip into the casing during the next steps.
7.5Insert the elastic into the gap.
7.6Pull the elastic all the way around the casing, and back out the gap.
Make sure the elastic is not twisted and then overlap the ends by ½ inch.
FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check the fit of the elastic. Adjust as needed.
7.7Stitch a zig zag stitch several times on the overlapping elastic.
7.8Let the elastic slip back inside the Waistband.
Stitch the gap closed.
NOTE – When sewing the gap closed, the Waistband will need to be stretched flat.
8 . OPTIONAL Ribbon8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Do not use a serger for these steps.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
8.1Fold each end of the ribbon on a 45-degree angle and trim.
8.2Finish the diagonal raw edges of the ribbon. Use a fray-stop type spray, or alternatively, singe the edges using a flame. Use appropriate health and safety guides.
8.3Fold the ribbon in half to find the half way point.
8.4Pin the ribbon to the Waistband at the desired point. Stitch in place using a straight stitch down the fold line of the ribbon.
TIP – If you want the bow at the center back, you could use the center back seam as a guide. If you’d prefer to have the seam hidden at the side of the body, lay the skirt flat with the seam at the side, then place the bow halfway along the width of the skirt.
8.5Tie the bow.
OPTIONAL – Secure in place with hand or machine stitching to stop the bow from coming undone. This is especially recommended for the smaller sizes.
0 . Preparation - OPTION BSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included - Hem ½ inch
0.1In the finished Tutu, the top tier (Tier 1) will be folded in half with the top folded edge forming the Waistband. This will also form the two layers of the Tutu. There will be two layers of gathered tulle for each tier.
0.2NOTE – The Materials section in this pattern recommends very light weight fabrics such as tulle or chiffon for Tier 2, Tier 3 and the Ruffle. These fabrics are very hard to photograph, so quilting cotton was used to ensure the instruction photos are clear and easy to see. To use this for a final garment would be very difficult due to how tightly the fabric is gathered. Please see the Materials section for recommended fabrics.
1 . OPTIONAL Ruffle1.0Gather the Ruffle pieces and attach one to the bottom each Tier 3 piece. The Ruffle is approximately 2.5 times the length of Tier 3.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger that can gather, then gather down the center of the Ruffle and attach it to the bottom of Tier 3. Then skip to step 2. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 1.1 to 1.3, then serge in place. Remove the gathering stitches and skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
1.1Mark the halfway and quarter points of the Ruffle and the bottom of Tier 3 with pins.
TIP – Alternatively use Tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. This will allow the marks to be visible after gathering the Ruffle.
1.2Stitch two rows of gathering stitches either side of the center down the ruffle. They should each be approximately ¼ inch from the raw edges.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
When stitching the Ruffle, leave the ends of the threads loose on either end, as they will be pulled to gather the Ruffle.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It doesn’t matter which direction so long as both lines of stitches go the same way. It’ll make gathering a lot easier.
1.3Place the Ruffle on the right side of the bottom of Tier 3. Match up the half quarter points and pin together. The Ruffle will be significantly longer than Tier 3.
Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Ruffle.
Gather all the way across the quarter you are working on until the Ruffle is the same length as that quarter of Tier 3.
Gently spread out the Ruffle so that it is evenly gathered.
Continue gathering the Ruffle along each quarter of Tier 3.
1.4Attach the Ruffle to Tier 3 by stitching directly over the gathered stitches.
NOTE – Tulle can be very slippery to sew. Go slowly and keep checking that the Ruffle has not slipped off the edge of Tier 3.
1.5Remove the gathering by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the Ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the Ruffle and pull these stitches out too.
1.6Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 for the other Ruffle and Tier 3 pieces.
2 . Tier 32.0Gather the top of each Tier 3 piece and then attach each to the bottom of the Tier 2 pieces. Tier 3 is approximately three times the length of Tier 2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger that can gather, then gather and stitch Tier 3 to the bottom of Tier 2 using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 3. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 3.1-3.6, then serge in place. Remove the gathering stitches and skip to step 4.
GATHERING FOOT OPTION – Gather and stitch each Tier 3 piece to the bottom of Tier 2. Skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
2.1Fold Tier 3 in half, and then in half again. Mark the half and quarter points of the top of Tier 3 with pins or clips.
Repeat to find the half and quarter points at the bottom of Tier 2 and mark with clips or pins.
TIP – Alternatively use Tailors chalk or a disappearing ink pen. This will allow the marks to be visible after gathering.
2.2Stitch two rows of gathering stitches along the top of Tier 3. Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the top edge and the second row ½ inch from the edge.
2.3With the right sides together, place Tier 3 upside down on the bottom of Tier 2 and pin them together at the half and quarter points.
Gather Tier 3 to match Tier 2, following the same method as step 1.3.
Stitch Tier 3 to Tier 2 using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Open the seam out. The seam doesn’t need pressing. The seam allowance should naturally sit upwards towards Tier 2.
NOTE – If you have cut your Tier 2 pieces in several sections, you can either stitch them together before attaching to Tier 3 as per the preparation step. Or you can simply overlap them by an inch as you pin them on. There is so much tulle that in the finished garment, the join will be fairly hidden.
2.4Remove your gathering stitches.
TIP – An easy way to do this is to carefully cut the bobbin thread with your unpicker roughly half way along the stitching. Then pull the long tails of the bobbin thread from either end. The top thread should then be loose and easily pulled out too.
Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.5 for the other Tier 2 and Tier 3 pieces.
3 . OPTIONAL Lining3.0To add the Optional Lining, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 4.
Gather the Lining and stitch it to the top edge of 1x Tier 2 (it does not need to be attached to both Tier 2 pieces, just one). The Lining is approximately twice the length of Tier 1.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place your Tier 2 and Lining pieces right sides together. This will ensure that the Lining is facing outwards when the Tutu is complete. If using a serger that can gather, then gather and stitch the Lining to the bottom of Tier 2 using a ¼ inch seam allowance, then skip to step 4. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 3.1 to 3.4 and then skip to step 4.
GATHERING FOOT OPTION – Place Tier 2 and the Lining so that they are both right side facing up. This will ensure that the Lining is facing outwards when the Tutu is complete. Then gather and stitch Tier 2 to the top edge of the Lining.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
3.1You will have two Tier 2 pieces. One will form the top (exterior) layer of the skirt, the other will go underneath and won’t be as visible. They will likely be identical at this point, but if you have a preference (for example, you have done two different colors), select the underneath Tier 2 and use it for this step. Put the top Tier 2 piece aside for now.
Fold the tulle to mark the half and quarter points on the top of the Lining, and the top of Tier 2.
3.2Add gathering stitches to the top of Tier 2 following the same method as in step 2.2.
3.3Place the right side of the Lining on the wrong side of Tier 2 and pin together matching up the half and quarter points.
Your lining should be behind your Tier 2 piece, and both should be facing the same direction.
3.4Gather Tier 2 to match the Lining, following the same method as step 1.3.
3.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
If you’ve done two rows of gathering stitches, you should be able to stitch down the center of the rows of gathering stitches.
NOTE – We will be attaching this to Tier 1 in the next step so no need to finish this raw edge yet.
3.6Remove your gathering stitches.
3.7Fold the raw edge of your Lining ¼ inch to the wrong side and press.
3.8Fold another ¼ inch and press.
3.9Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.9 for the other Tier 2 and Lining pieces.
4 . Tier 24.0Gather the top edge of each Tier 2 piece and attach it to either side of Tier 1. If you have sewn the OPTIONAL Lining, skip to step 4.3.
Without lining, Tier 2 is approximately four times the length of Tier 1. With the lining, Tier 2 is approximately two times the length of Tier 1.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger that can gather, then gather and stitch a Tier 2 to each long edge of Tier 1 (one on either side), using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 5. If using a serger that cannot gather, follow steps 4.1 to 4.4, then serge in place. Remove the gathering stitches and skip to step 5.
GATHERING FOOT OPTION – Gather and stitch a Tier 2 piece to each long edge of Tier 1. Skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
4.1Mark the half and quarter points on the top of one of your Tier 2 pieces, and one of the long edges of Tier 1.
NOTE – If you have done the lining, start with the Tier 2 piece which does not have the lining on it.
4.2Add gathering stitches to the top of Tier 2 following the same method as in step 2.2.
4.3With the right sides together, pin Tier 2 to Tier 1 matching up the half and quarter points.
Gather Tier 2 to match Tier 1, following the same method as step 1.3.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Remove your gathering stitches.
OPTIONAL – Serge or zig zag the seam allowance to finish it.
TIP – Fold and press Tier 1 in half. This pressed fold will help when you encase the elastic in step 6.
4.4Repeat step 4.1 to 4.3 to attach the other Tier 2 to the other long edge of Tier 1.
When you attach this section Tier 2 piece to Tier 1, place the Tier 2 wrong side down onto the right side of Tier 1. If you’ve done the lining, this means the fabric will be sandwiched Tier 1, Lining, Tier 2.
When you unfold it all and you fold Tier 1 in half along it’s center, both Tier 2 pieces should be facing the front. The skirt will then be sandwiched with the lining next to the wearer’s skin and both Tier 2 pieces facing right side out.
If you are uncertain if you have got it the right way around, pin, then carefully unfold it as if it is stitched and hold it like you are wearing it to check. Given how much tulle this is, it’s better to be 100% certain before you stitch!
5 . Back Seam5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If using a serger, fold the Tutu right sides together along the short edges. Serge together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
5.1With the right sides together, fold the Tutu in half, matching the seams.
Make sure the seams between each of the tiers are aligned and pin.
The Tutu will now be a tube.
5.2Stitch from one raw edge, all the way along to the other raw edge, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching along the: Ruffle, Tier 3, Tier 2, Tier 1, then down the other Tier 2, Tier 3 and Ruffle pieces. If you have done the lining, this will be sandwiched in the seam on one side of Tier 1 too.
5.3Use a zig zag stitch or serge/overlock to finish the raw edges of the seam allowance.
NOTE – Your skirt will still look far too wide at this point to fit your child. Don’t worry, you do not need to gather the waistband. When we insert the elastic later on it will make it the correct size.
6 . Waist Elastic6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Do not use a serger for these steps.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
6.1Fold the Tutu in half along the middle of Tier 1 with the wrong sides together and press.
TIP – To make sure the layers do not shift, pin the layers of Tier 1 together.
6.2Mark 1 ¼ inches from the fold line all around the top of the Waistband and mark. This will make a casing for your elastic.
TIP – Use tailors chalk, a disappearing ink pen, pins, or mark the starting place on the fabric and then follow the seam guide on the sewing machine. Alternatively, you could use pins to mark.
TIP – The 1 ¼ inch measurement is so that it is slightly deeper than the 1 inch recommended elastic. If you are using a different width elastic, make sure the marking for your casing is ¼ inch deeper than your elastic.
6.3Stitch along this line all the way around the Tutu, leaving a 2 inch gap to insert your elastic in the next step.
NOTE – This will form the casing for the elastic.
6.4Turn the Tutu wrong side out and unfold the layers to expose the stitch line you just made.
Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic. Pin the other end of the elastic to the fabric, so that it does not slip into the casing during the next steps.
Insert the elastic into the gap.
6.5Pull the elastic all the way around the casing, and back out the gap.
Make sure the elastic is not twisted and then overlap the ends by ½ inch.
FIT CHECK – Try the garment on and check the fit of the elastic. Adjust as needed.
6.6Stitch a zig zag stitch several times on the overlapping elastic.
6.7Let the elastic slip back inside the Waistband.
Stitch the gap closed.
NOTE – When sewing the gap closed, the Waistband will need to be stretched flat.
7 . OPTIONAL Ribbon7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Do not use a serger for these steps.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.
7.1Fold each end of the ribbon on a 45-degree angle and trim.
7.2Finish the diagonal raw edges of the ribbon. Use a fray-stop type spray, or alternatively, singe the edges using a flame. Use appropriate health and safety guides.
7.3Fold the ribbon in half to find the halfway point.
7.4Pin the ribbon to the Waistband at the desired point. Stitch in place using a straight stitch down the fold line of the ribbon.
TIP – If you want the bow at the center back, you could use the center back seam as a guide. If you’d prefer to have the seam hidden at the side of the body, lay the skirt flat with the seam at the side, then place the bow halfway along the width of the skirt.
7.5Tie the bow.
OPTIONAL – Secure in place with hand or machine stitching to stop the bow from coming undone. This is especially recommended for the smaller sizes.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Tutu Skirt is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptutuskirt.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewTutu Skirt
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The Tutu Skirt makes a great dress up item, party skirt or even a fancy every-day skirt!
It is formed entirely of gathered rectangles, use the cutting chart, or the provided pattern pieces.
There are two options:
- “Full” – This is a three tiered, approximately knee length skirt, with an optional lace or trim gather on the hem. It is suitable for any light to medium weight woven fabric. This look has an optional lining.
- “Super Full” – This is a very, very, full skirt! It has three tiers plus a ruffle on the bottom. The top tier needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. The bottom two tiers and ruffle are suitable for very lightweight wovens such as soft tulle or chiffon only.
When you are selecting which version you wish to do, please note, there is a LOT of tulle in the super full version. It is absolutely stunning, but it is not for the faint-hearted!
We highly recommend either option, but if you are doing the Super Full option, we also highly recommend starting with lots of patience, going carefully, labeling all your pieces and making sure not to mix any of the strips up. They’re very long if you get them twisted or have to try and figure out which piece of tulle goes with which layer.
Both options have a gathered elastic waistband that pulls on, with an optional ribbon bow at the waist.
SizingSize Range
Newborn – 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
0 – 3 mos
22.0
56.0
16.5
42.0
16.0
40.5
16.5
42.0
3 – 6 mos
24.0
61.0
17.5
44.5
17.0
43.0
17.5
44.5
6 – 12 mos
27.5
70.0
18.5
47.0
17.5
44.5
18.5
47.0
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.0
48.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.0
51.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.0
56.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Length (from top of waistband to hem)
With elastic inserted (finished)
Without elastic inserted (not finished)
0 – 3 mos
14.0
32.0
6.3
3 – 6 mos
15.0
34.0
6.9
6 – 12 mos
16.0
35.0
7.9
12 – 18 mos
16.5
37.0
8.6
18 – 24 mos
17.5
39.0
9.2
2 – 3 yrs
18.5
42.0
10.3
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
44.0
11.9
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
47.0
13.5
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
49.0
14.6
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
51.0
15.5
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
53.0
16.4
Materials and ToolsOption A – “Full”
Fabric for all Tiers and Waistband
- You can either color block (e.g. use a different color/fabric for each tier) or use the same fabric for all tiers.
- Suitable for most woven fabrics.
- Since the skirt will be gathered significantly, a light or medium weight woven fabric is recommended. For example: satin, cotton, quilting cotton, chiffon, georgette, rayon, crepe, crepe de chine.
Optional Hem Trim
- This is the trim that can be stitched flat onto the hem of the “Full” Tutu Skirt. Examples are lace, ribbon, and ric-rac.
- A ¼ inch wide ribbon is used in the tutorial, but any width or style can be used.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
No Color Blocking
Color Blocking
All three Tiers
Tier 1
Tier 2
Tier 3
0 – 3 mos
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
1.00
0.50
0.50
0.50
5 – 6 yrs
1.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
1.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
1.75
0.50
0.50
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
1.75
0.50
0.50
1.00
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
No Color Blocking
Color Blocking
All three Tiers
Tier 1
Tier 2
Tier 3
OPTIONAL
Lining
0 – 3 mos
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
6 – 12 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
12 – 18 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
1.00
0.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.25
0.50
0.75
1.00
* Fabric requirements are worked out using the most economical cutting options as per the cutting instructions.
** If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
*** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.OPTIONAL Hem Trim
0 – 3 mos
3.60
3 – 6 mos
3.80
6 – 12 mos
3.90
12 – 18 mos
4.10
18 – 24 mos
4.30
2 – 3 yrs
4.70
3 – 4 yrs
4.90
5 – 6 yrs
5.10
7 – 8 yrs
5.30
9 – 10 yrs
5.60
11 – 12 yrs
5.80
Option B – “Super Full”
Tier 1 (Fabric)
- This is the fabric that will form the waistband and top layer of the skirt.
- Suitable for most woven fabrics.
- Since the skirt will be gathered significantly, it is recommended to use a light or medium weight woven fabric. For example: satin, cotton, quilting cotton, chiffon, georgette, rayon, crepe, crepe de chine.
- In the chart below and the rest of the pattern, this is referred to as ‘Fabric’.
Tiers 2 & 3 and Ruffle (Tulle)
- This is the fabric that will form the lower layers of the skirt.
- Most lightweight woven fabric can be used. For example: chiffon, georgette, netting, and rayon.
- Make sure to consider the ‘scratchiness’ of the fabric. If a lining is not used, this will be directly against the skin. If a scratchy fabric such as netting is used, consider adding the lining option.
- Also consider the color, weight, and how see through the fabric may be. In pre-testing, this was made in a light pink tulle with no lining and the bottom part of the skirt was quite see-through. This was ok as a dress up skirt but would not be suitable to wear on its own as a regular garment. However, when made using a dark blue tulle with no lining, it was fairly opaque and could be worn as a regular garment with just tights or bare legs. To ensure that the skirt is not see through, adding a lining is recommended.
- In the chart below and the rest of the pattern, this is referenced as ‘Tulle’.
- Tulle is often sold by the 6-inch-wide roll. All pattern pieces in all sizes are less than 6 inches in height. For some sizes the strip can be cut in half along its length and the leftover can be used for another piece.
- Note – in the instructions you’ll notice the Super Full version is made from a lightweight cotton. This is possible but we would recommend using no lining and finishing all seams with either a serger or a zig zag stitch.
OPTIONAL Lining
- The lining is a gathered skirt that attaches to the bottom of Tier 1. The purpose of the lining is to make sure there is a soft fabric next to the legs when using a scratchy fabric for the lower Tiers and Ruffle. It also prevents the skirt from being see-through.
- Any lightweight woven fabric can be used.
Option B “Super Full”
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Tulle
OPTIONAL Lining
0 – 3 mos
0.25
2.50
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.25
2.75
0.50
6 – 12 mos
0.25
3.00
0.50
12 – 18 mos
0.25
3.00
0.50
18 – 24 mos
0.25
3.00
0.50
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
3.50
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
0.50
4.00
0.50
5 – 6 yrs
0.75
4.50
0.50
7 – 8 yrs
0.75
4.75
0.75
9 – 10 yrs
0.75
5.00
0.75
11 – 12 yrs
0.75
5.50
0.75
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main
Tulle
OPTIONAL Lining
0 – 3 mos
0.25
1.75
0.25
3 – 6 mos
0.25
2.00
0.25
6 – 12 mos
0.25
2.25
0.25
12 – 18 mos
0.25
2.25
0.25
18 – 24 mos
0.25
2.75
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
0.25
2.75
0.75
3 – 4 yrs
0.25
3.25
0.75
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
3.25
0.75
7 – 8 yrs
0.50
3.75
1.00
9 – 10 yrs
0.50
4.00
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
4.00
1.00
By the Roll (6 inch wide)
Yards
Rolls (100 yards per roll)
0 – 3 mos
114.0
2.0
3 – 6 mos
120.0
2.0
6 – 12 mos
125.0
2.0
12 – 18 mos
131.0
2.0
18 – 24 mos
120.0
2.0
2 – 3 yrs
129.0
2.0
3 – 4 yrs
136.0
2.0
5 – 6 yrs
141.0
2.0
7 – 8 yrs
147.0
2.0
9 – 10 yrs
154.0
2.0
11 – 12 yrs
159.0
2.0
* Fabric requirements are worked out using the most economical cutting options as per the cutting instructions.
** If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
*** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.For both options, you will also need:
- 1 inch wide elastic (see lengths in cutting chart)
- 1.5-inch-wide ribbon for the optional bow on the waistband (see lengths in cutting chart)
- Thread to match
Tools needed: sewing machine, scissors, measuring tape. Optional, but not required: fray stop or other method for sealing a ribbon, serger or overlocker.