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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
1
Children’s Twist Strap Outfit
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This quick and easy to sew dress has twisted back straps, ruched front, draping under the armholes, and an open cowl back. It is loose-fitting with a boxy shape and there are two dress lengths and optional back tie as well as the option to make a jumpsuit with two leg lengths.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 12mos-12yrs.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Grading – Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different, so we have a few suggestions to help achieve a great fitting garment:
- If your model falls between sizes, you will start with the size bracket with the correct hip measurement. The garment is more fitted at the hips, especially in the back.
- If your child falls into a different size for height, use the bodice length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together so the armhole height, top and bottom of the bodice and skirt pieces use the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Follow this tutorial for any further jumpsuit fitting advice.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this pattern:
- Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
- Cut out the pattern piece and baste it together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
- Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ⅜ Knitted elastic – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
- Bodice – cut 1 on fold
- OPTIONAL Back Tie – cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Trouser Leg – cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Skirt – cut 2 on fold
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewTwist Strap Outfit
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The V-neck Twist Strap Outfit is a quick and easy sew with minimal seams. The bodice is loose fitting with an elasticated waist, center front ruching, twisted back straps and draping under the armhole and at the back cowl. Create a full length or shorts jumpsuit or a mid-thigh or knee dress version – making it a super comfy and relaxed wear. Add optional back ties to make it easier to get on and off. The bodice edges are left raw with no need for hemming.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Jumpsuit
Chest
Waist
Hip
Front rise
Back rise
Shorts inseam
Full length inseam
Thigh
Calf
Ankle
12 – 18 mos
26.0
16.5
26.0
5.7
8.0
4.7
11.1
16.5
10.7
9.2
18 – 24 mos
27.0
17.5
27.6
6.1
8.2
4.7
12.2
17.0
11.6
9.6
2 – 3 yrs
29.0
18.0
29.6
6.3
8.3
4.7
13.5
18.2
12.5
10.2
3 – 4 yrs
30.0
19.0
31.0
6.5
8.5
4.7
15.0
19.1
13.2
10.6
5 – 6 yrs
32.0
20.0
32.5
6.6
8.7
4.7
18.1
19.7
14.2
11.3
7 – 8 yrs
34.0
21.0
33.6
7.0
9.0
4.7
20.6
20.5
15.2
11.7
9 – 10 yrs
35.0
22.0
35.0
7.2
9.2
4.7
24.0
21.2
16.5
12.3
11 – 12 yrs
37.0
23.0
36.5
7.3
9.3
4.7
27.6
22.0
17.5
12.7
Dress
Chest
Waist
Hip
Mid-thigh length skirt
Knee length skirt
12 – 18 mos
26.0
16.5
32.0
4.2
10.0
18 – 24 mos
27.0
17.5
33.2
5.2
11.2
2 – 3 yrs
29.0
18.0
34.5
6.5
12.6
3 – 4 yrs
30.0
19.0
35.5
7.6
14.7
5 – 6 yrs
32.0
20.0
37.0
9.6
17.1
7 – 8 yrs
34.0
21.0
38.3
11.7
18.3
9 – 10 yrs
35.0
22.0
40.0
14.2
19.5
11 – 12 yrs
37.0
23.0
41.2
16.2
20.7
Fitting NotesThis is a loose fitting outfit with a very forgiving fit. The gathered front bodice and the drape of the back cowl create a very flattering shape. The jumpsuit has no side seams.
Materials and ToolsYour fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, viscose, stretch velour and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
The edges of the bodice are intended to be left raw giving the best drape.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Shorts
Trouser
Mid-thigh skirt
Knee length skirt
12 – 24 mos
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
1.25
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
3 – 6 yrs
1.25
0.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
7 – 10 yrs
1.25
0.75
1.25
0.75
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
0.75
1.25
0.75
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, optional rotary cutter and mat, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
OPTIONAL Trouser OPTIONAL Skirt Bodice OPTIONAL Back tie Mid-thigh Ankle Mid-thigh Knee 12 – 18 mos 3-4, 9-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-18 16 15-16 18 – 24 mos 3-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-18 16 15-16, 21 2 – 3 yrs 3-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-18 15-16 15-16, 21 3 – 4 yrs 2-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-18 15-16 14-16, 21 5 – 6 yrs 2-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19 15-16, 21-22 14-16, 20-22 7 – 8 yrs 2-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19, 23-25 15-16, 21-22 14-16, 20-22 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19, 23-25 14-16, 21-22 14-16, 20-22 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 8-10 21-22 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19, 23-25 14-16, 20-22 14-16, 20-22 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
OPTIONAL Trouser OPTIONAL Skirt Bodice OPTIONAL Back tie Mid-thigh Ankle Mid-thigh Knee 12 – 18 mos 3-4, 9-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13 16-17 15-17 18 – 24 mos 3-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-18 16-17 15-17 2 – 3 yrs 3-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-18 16-17 15-17, 21 3 – 4 yrs 3-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19 15-17 14-17, 21 5 – 6 yrs 2-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19 15-17 14-17, 20-21 7 – 8 yrs 2-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19 15-17, 21 14-17, 20-21 9 – 10 yrs 2-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19, 23-25 15-17, 21-22 14-17, 20-22 11 – 12 yrs 2-4, 8-10 17 5-7, 11-13 5-7, 11-13, 17-19, 23-25 14-17, 20-22 14-17, 20-22 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
⅜ wide Elastic (Cut 1)
Length
12 – 18 mos
17.5
18 – 24 mos
18.5
2 – 3 yrs
19.0
3 – 4 yrs
20.0
5 – 6 yrs
21.0
7 – 8 yrs
22.0
9 – 10 yrs
23.0
11 – 12 yrs
24.0
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches.
- CENTER BACK WITHOUT BACK TIES – Lay the pattern piece flat, right side facing up. Starting on the left side, twist one strap over itself once, then twist it again, so that the center back seam is facing towards the center back, and the strap is now twisted. Repeat on the right side. Stitch the center back seam, right sides together.
- CENTER BACK WITH BACK TIES – Fold Back Tie in half, right sides together. Stitch the long straight edge and the angled edge. Turn right sides out. Press. Stitch the Tie onto the center back seam of the Bodice, right sides together. Press. Repeat.
- OPTION: GATHERED CENTER FRONT – Baste from the top edge to the notch on both center front seams. Gather to 2 inches. Stitch center front seam, right sides together.
- OPTION: STITCHED SEAM ELASTIC CENTER FRONT – Pin Bodice together at center front seam, right sides together. Cut elastic to 2 inches. Stitch seam together, pulling the elastic to the marking.
- OPTION: STITCHED SEAM PLUS ELASTIC CENTER FRONT – Stitch center front seam, right sides together. Cut elastic to 2 inches and stitch to seam.
- SHOULDERS – Stitch the left shoulders, right sides together. Repeat for the right shoulder.
- OPTIONAL SHORTS/TROUSER – Stitch inseam on both Legs. Place one Leg inside the other, right sides together. Stitch the rise. Turn out and press.
- OPTIONAL SKIRT – Place Skirts, right sides together. Stitch side seams. Press. Bar tack at top and bottom to secure side seam.
- ATTACHING THE BODICE – Mark quarter points and match Bodice to Skirt/Trousers. Overlap elastic by ½ inch and stitch together. Stitch elastic to Skirt/Trousers.
- HEMMING TROUSERS – Fold hem ¾ inch and press. Fold again by 1 ¾ inches. Bar tack each side in place. Repeat for other Leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ⅛ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
1 . Center Back without Back Ties1.0If you are sewing the Jumpsuit, skip to step 2. If you are sewing the Dress, follow this step without the OPTIONAL Back Ties, or skip to step 2 to add Back Ties.
1.1Lay the pattern piece flat, right side facing up.
1.2Starting on the left side, twist one strap over itself once, then twist it again, so that the center back seam is facing towards the center back, and the strap is now twisted.
1.3Repeat on the right side.
NOTE – You need to mirror the twist from the left side so that both your twists are facing in the opposite direction.
1.4Without losing any twists, place the two straps together at the center back seam, right sides together. Pin.
1.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.6Press the seam to the wearer’s left.
TIP – If straps have become untwisted, they can be re-twisted by passing the shoulder piece through the back opening.
If using a serger, finish the thread tails using your preferred method or follow step 1.7.
1.7If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zig zag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
2 . Center Back with Back Ties2.0JUMPSUIT: Back Ties are not optional. This will make it easier to get the outfit on and off.
DRESS: Back Ties are optional. If you do not want to add them, skip to step 3.
2.1Fold a Back Tie in half, right sides together. Pin the long straight edge and the angled edge.
2.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Check that the straight end of the Back Tie is the same width as the back seam on the Bodice.
2.3Turn the Tie right sides out. Press.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
2.4Place the Tie onto the center back seam of the Bodice, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
2.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
2.6Press the seam allowance towards the bodice.
OPTIONAL: Topstitch the seam in place using a ⅛ seam allowance.
2.7Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.6 for the other Back Tie.
NOTE – Check that you are attaching the Back Ties facing the same direction.
3 . OPTION: Gathered Center Front3.0The center front seam can be gathered three different ways. If you would like to gather stitch, follow below. To stitch the elastic and the center front seam at the same time, follow step 4, or to stitch the seam and then stitch the elastic, follow step 5.
3.1Stitch two rows of basting stitches on one side of the center front seam, using ¼ and ⅛ seam allowance, from the top edge down to the notch.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction, as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those leftover bobbin threads!
3.2Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the Front, gently spreading out the gathers to a measurement of 2 inches.
3.3Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 to gather the other side of the center front seam.
3.4Place the center front seams right sides together. Pin.
3.5Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
3.6If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zig zag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
4 . OPTION: Stitched Seam Elastic Center Front4.0The center front seam can be gathered three different ways. If you have gathered the seam, skip to step 6. To stitch the elastic and the center front seam at the same time, follow below, or to stitch the seam and then stitch the elastic, follow step 5.
4.1Place the center front seams right sides together. Pin.
4.2Cut a length of elastic to 2 inches.
Pin one end of the elastic to the top edge.
TIP – Exercise the elastic prior to sewing. This will prevent the elastic from stretching as you attach it.
4.3Start serging or stitching using a ⅜ seam allowance. Take the loose end of the elastic and gently pull it to the pattern marking, while stitching it into the seam.
NOTE – If using a serger to sew in the elastic, deactivate the cutting blade, or make sure the elastic is inside the seam, so you don’t cut the elastic.
4.4Continue stitching the seam together.
5 . OPTION: Stitched Seam plus Elastic Center Front5.0The center front seam can be gathered three different ways. If you have gathered the seam or stitched the seam and elastic together, skip to step 6. To stitch the seam and then stitch the elastic, follow below.
5.1Place the center front seams right sides together. Pin.
5.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.3Cut a length of elastic to 2 inches.
Pin the top of the elastic to the top edge of the Bodice. Stretch the elastic to the pattern marking and pin in place.
TIP – Exercise the elastic prior to sewing. This will prevent the elastic from stretching as you attach it.
5.4Using a regular sewing machine, start stitching the top of the elastic using a zig zag stitch.
Gently pull the Bodice, stretching the elastic to fit flat against the fabric. Stitch in place.
6 . Shoulders6.0If you have sewn the Back Ties, start at step 6.1. If you have not, skip to step 6.3
6.1Place the left shoulder, right sides together.
6.2Starting on the left side, twist one strap over itself once, then twist it again, so that the shoulder seams are laying together right sides facing once again, and the strap is now twisted.
TIP – Add clear elastic to the shoulder seam for added stability.
6.3Pin the shoulders, right sides together.
6.4Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.5Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 for the other shoulder seam with Back Ties, or repeat steps 6.3 to 6.4 without Back Ties.
6.6If using a serger, here are two methods to finish the thread tails.
METHOD 1 – Use a wide eye needle to thread the tails back through the stitches.
METHOD 2 – Pull the threads back over the seam and stitch a few zig zag stitches over the seam allowance, securing the tails in place.
7 . OPTIONAL Shorts/Trouser7.0If you are sewing the Dress version, skip to step 8. If you are sewing the Jumpsuit version, follow below. The steps are the same for the Shorts or Full Length version.
7.1Fold one Leg right sides together, matching the inseams. Pin.
7.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
OPTIONAL – Using a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch, topstitch ⅛ inch from the stitch line, over the seam allowance, along the inseam.
7.3Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.2 for your second Leg piece.
7.4Turn one Leg right side out.
7.5Slide this Leg inside the other Leg, right sides together, matching the front and back rise. Pin.
7.6Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Place a pin or mark the front of the Legs so you know which part to attach to the front of the Bodice in step 9.
7.7Turn the Legs right side out. Press the seam allowances.
If you are sewing the Shorts version, the edges are left raw so no need to hem. The weight of the cuffed hem would pull it out of shape. The Trouser version will be hemmed in step 10.
8 . OPTIONAL Skirt8.0If you are sewing the Jumpsuit version, skip to step 9. If you are sewing the Dress version, follow below.
8.1Place the two Skirt pieces, right sides together, matching the side seam. Pin.
8.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
8.3Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.2 for the other side seam.
Turn the Skirt right side out. Press the side seams to the back.
8.4Secure both top and hem ends of each side seam with a bar tack. This helps to keep the seam from unravelling.
If you haven’t done a bar tack before, it is a section of stitching which goes back and forwards over itself to create a little line. You can do this by hand or by machine. Some machines will have this as a stitch type you can select. If you do not have this option, you can either try your zigzag stitch, or do several small stitches in a row back and forwards. To use your zigzag stitch, set it so it is as wide as the two lines of top stitching, but with no length. The stitching will go side to side on top of itself and not move forward.
Repeat this a few times and then stop.
No need to hem the Skirt as the edges are left raw.
9 . Attaching the Bodice9.0This step is the same for both the Dress and Jumpsuit version.
9.1Using your center front seam as a reference, fold the Bodice in half to find the center back. Mark the center front and back with pins. Then fold the Bodice in half again and mark side seams. These will be your quarter points.
9.2Mark the quarter points on the waist edge of the Skirt/Legs.
9.3Place the Bodice over the Skirt/Legs, right sides together, matching quarter points.
OPTIONAL – Baste together using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
NOTE – The image shows a gathered Bodice before adding the elastic. However, this is not required.
9.4Overlap the ends of the waistband elastic by ½ inch and stitch them together to form a circle.
9.5Fold the elastic in half and mark with pins. Fold again and mark the quarter points with pins.
9.6With the Bodice flipped down inside, pin the elastic onto the waist seam allowance of the Dress/Jumpsuit fabric, matching quarter points.
9.7Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – If using a serger to sew in the elastic, deactivate the cutting blade, or make sure the elastic is inside the seam, so you don’t cut the elastic.
10 . Hemming Trousers10.1Fold the hem of one Leg up by ¾ inch. Press.
10.2Fold up a further 1 ¾ inches. Press.
10.3Pin the cuff to the Leg at the inseam and the outer side of the leg.
Bar-tack the cuff at each pinned side.
If you haven’t done a bar tack before, it is a section of stitching which goes back and forwards over itself to create a little line. You can do this by hand or by machine. Some machines will have this as a stitch type you can select. If you do not have this option, you can either try your zigzag stitch, or do several small stitches in a row back and forwards. To use your zigzag stitch, set it so it is as wide as the two lines of top stitching, but with no length. The stitching will go side to side on top of itself and not move forward.
Repeat this a few times and then stop.
TIP – If you would prefer, you could coverstitch or zig-zag stitch all the way around the faux cuff to hold it in place.
10.4Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the other Leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Twist Strap Outfit is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptwiststrapoutfit.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewTwist Strap Outfit
Difficulty Level = Beginner
The V-neck Twist Strap Outfit is a quick and easy sew with minimal seams. The bodice is loose fitting with an elasticated waist, center front ruching, twisted back straps and draping under the armhole and at the back cowl. Create a full length or shorts jumpsuit or a mid-thigh or knee dress version – making it a super comfy and relaxed wear. Add optional back ties to make it easier to get on and off. The bodice edges are left raw with no need for hemming.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Jumpsuit
Chest
Waist
Hip
Front rise
Back rise
Shorts inseam
Full length inseam
Thigh
Calf
Ankle
12 – 18 mos
26.0
16.5
26.0
5.7
8.0
4.7
11.1
16.5
10.7
9.2
18 – 24 mos
27.0
17.5
27.6
6.1
8.2
4.7
12.2
17.0
11.6
9.6
2 – 3 yrs
29.0
18.0
29.6
6.3
8.3
4.7
13.5
18.2
12.5
10.2
3 – 4 yrs
30.0
19.0
31.0
6.5
8.5
4.7
15.0
19.1
13.2
10.6
5 – 6 yrs
32.0
20.0
32.5
6.6
8.7
4.7
18.1
19.7
14.2
11.3
7 – 8 yrs
34.0
21.0
33.6
7.0
9.0
4.7
20.6
20.5
15.2
11.7
9 – 10 yrs
35.0
22.0
35.0
7.2
9.2
4.7
24.0
21.2
16.5
12.3
11 – 12 yrs
37.0
23.0
36.5
7.3
9.3
4.7
27.6
22.0
17.5
12.7
Dress
Chest
Waist
Hip
Mid-thigh length skirt
Knee length skirt
12 – 18 mos
26.0
16.5
32.0
4.2
10.0
18 – 24 mos
27.0
17.5
33.2
5.2
11.2
2 – 3 yrs
29.0
18.0
34.5
6.5
12.6
3 – 4 yrs
30.0
19.0
35.5
7.6
14.7
5 – 6 yrs
32.0
20.0
37.0
9.6
17.1
7 – 8 yrs
34.0
21.0
38.3
11.7
18.3
9 – 10 yrs
35.0
22.0
40.0
14.2
19.5
11 – 12 yrs
37.0
23.0
41.2
16.2
20.7
Materials and ToolsYour fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, viscose, stretch velour and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.
The edges of the bodice are intended to be left raw giving the best drape.
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Top
Shorts
Trouser
Mid-thigh skirt
Knee length skirt
12 – 24 mos
1.00
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
2 – 3 yrs
1.25
0.75
0.75
0.50
0.75
3 – 6 yrs
1.25
0.75
0.75
0.75
1.00
7 – 10 yrs
1.25
0.75
1.25
0.75
1.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
0.75
1.25
0.75
1.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- ⅜ Knitted elastic – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ⅜ wide Clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams – approximately ¼ yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, optional rotary cutter and mat, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.