Children's Twist Strap Top

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

12mo - 12yrs

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

This is a loose fitting top with a very forgiving fit. The front gathers and back cowl create a very flattering shape. It is meant to be worn over a crop top or fitted top, with the crossover cowl draping loosely over the waist. 

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Grading – Our child’s patterns have been graded to work proportionally with a growing child. However, every child is different, so we have a few suggestions to help achieve a great fitting garment:
  • If your model falls between sizes, you will start with the size bracket with the correct hip measurement. The garment is more fitted at the hips, especially in the back.
  • If your child falls into a different size for height, use the bodice length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together so the armhole height, top and bottom of the bodice and skirt pieces use the size bracket from their height measurement.
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this pattern:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment.
  • Cut out the pattern piece and baste it together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Your fabric needs to be a stretch/knit fabric. It can be any weight; however, best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight fabric. A lighter weight fabric will drape more than a heavier weight. Great examples are sweater knits, medium weight jersey, viscose, stretch velour and stretch French terry. Do not use a woven fabric.

The edges of the Twist Strap Top are intended to be left raw giving the best drape. The top is intended to be flowy. Hemming will affect the drape and the hem will sit stiffer.

Fabric Requirements 60 inch / 150 cm wide fabric (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Thread to match

Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, optional rotary cutter and mat, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion! 

Cut the pattern piece according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front and Back – cut 1 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zig zag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Basting ⅛ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and notches.

Sewing –

1. CENTER BACK – Lay the pattern piece flat, right side facing up. Starting on the left side, twist one strap over itself once, then twist it again, so that the center back seam is facing towards the center back, and the strap is now twisted. Repeat on the right side. Stitch the center back seam, right sides together.
2. CENTER FRONT – Baste from the top edge to the notch on both center front seams. Gather to 2 inches. Stitch center front seam, right sides together.
3. OPTION: GATHERED CENTER FRONT – Baste from the top edge to the notch on both center front seams. Gather to 2.75 inches. Stitch center front seam, right sides together.
4. OPTION: STITCHED SEAM ELASTIC CENTER FRONT – Pin Bodice together at center front seam, right sides together. Cut elastic to 2.75 inches. Stitch seam together, pulling the elastic to the marking.
5. SHOULDERS – Stitch the left shoulders, right sides together. Repeat for the right shoulder.

Congratulations, your Twist Strap Top is done. Enjoy!

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rptwiststraptop.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

© Copyright 2021

All Rights Reserved