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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
Children’s Two Piece Swim Set Sewing Pattern - High Back Swim Top> Get Started
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Children’s Two Piece Swim Set Sewing Pattern - High Back Swim Top
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
Choose between a lined crop or a gathered longer length option. The gathered option is attached to the crop top lining and self-lined from the underbust. Both have elastic at the underbust for support. The Swim Tops have a square neck with spaghetti straps into the high back. The strap, neckline and armscye have elastic for support. The optional front decorative zipper adds a little fun finish to the Swim Top.
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Selecting your size – Choose your size from the chest measurement in the size chart. If your measurements fall into different sizes, use the layers feature to print those sizes. Then, grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line from the size for your chest measurement to the size for your waist.
- Height adjustment – If your child falls into a different size for height, use the length for that height size bracket, keeping to the size your child best fits into for chest measurements. Blend the two patterns together using the size bracket from their height measurement.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you sew a muslin first to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one.
- Use an inexpensive lycra swim fabric similar in weight and stretch to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy and then baste the seams. You can adjust the length of your strap if needed.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when it is exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, or salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- NOTE – You can use Clear elastic in the seams.
- OPTIONAL – You can use wider cotton elastic for the hem if you would like additional support. ¾ inch wide up to 1 ½ inch – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Zipper – 1x plastic chunky zipper. As this is decorative you can use any length. We suggest using a 2-inch zipper for sizes 12mos-3yrs and a 3-inch zipper for size 4-12yrs.
- OPTIONAL Knit Interfacing – a scrap piece if adding the OPTIONAL Zipper. A piece 4×8 inches will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Lining cut 1 on fold
- Strap – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Back – Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Lining:
- Crop OPTION Front – Lining cut 1 on fold.
- Crop OPTION Back – Lining cut 1 on fold.
- NOTE – You will need to cut the Lining from the Crop OPTION pattern piece.
- Strap – Fabric cut 1 on fold.
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ballpoint twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zig zag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewHigh Back Swim Top
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Under
bust
Waist
Crop OPTION: center front length
Gathered OPTION: center front length
12 – 18 mos
16.7
16.1
16.4
3.1
6.6
18 – 24 mos
17.7
17.1
17.2
3.5
7.2
2 – 3 yrs
19.4
18.1
18.5
3.7
7.5
3 – 4 yrs
20.3
19.1
19.4
4.2
8.7
5 – 6 yrs
22.0
19.7
20.3
4.5
13.6
7 – 8 yrs
23.7
20.6
21.2
4.7
17.2
9 – 10 yrs
24.6
21.6
22.1
5.1
19.1
11 – 12 yrs
26.5
22.6
23.0
5.5
20.1
Fitting NotesThe Swim Top is fitted with the crop top finishing under the bust and the longer length finishing at the high hip.
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
Crop OPTION
Gathered OPTION
ALL One Fabric
Separate Fabric
ALL One Fabric
Separate Fabric
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.50
2 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.50
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.00
0.50
7 – 10 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.25
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.50
1.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, optional zipper foot, optional fusible web, optional washaway tape, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required.Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Gathered Crop 12mos – 4yrs 2-3, 5-7 4, 7 5 – 6yrs 2-3, 5-9 4, 7 7 – 8yrs 2-3, 5-11 4, 7 9 – 10yrs 2-3, 5-12 4, 7 10 – 12yrs 2-3, 5-13 4, 7 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Gathered Crop 12mos – 4yrs 2-4, 5-6 4, 7 5 – 6yrs 2-4, 5-6, 8-9 4, 7 7 – 10yrs 2-4, 5-6, 8-9, 10-11 4, 7 11 – 12yrs 2-4, 5-6, 8-9, 10-12 4, 7 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Strap (Cut 1)
Strap Elastic
(Cut 1)
OPTIONAL Zipper Interfacing (Cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
12 – 18 mos
1.50
11.10
0.38
9.10
2.00
3.00
18 – 24 mos
1.50
11.30
0.38
9.30
2.00
3.00
2 – 3 yrs
1.50
11.50
0.38
9.50
2.00
3.00
3 – 4 yrs
1.50
11.70
0.38
9.70
2.00
4.00
5 – 6 yrs
1.50
12.00
0.38
10.00
2.00
4.00
7 – 8 yrs
1.50
12.20
0.38
10.20
2.00
4.00
9 – 10 yrs
1.50
12.40
0.38
10.40
2.00
4.00
11 – 12 yrs
1.50
12.60
0.38
10.60
2.00
4.00
Cutting Checklist:
Crop OPTION:
Gathered OPTION:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting. - + Instructions
- OPTIONAL ZIPPER: INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to wrong side of Main Front and Front Lining.
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to fabric.
- STRAP – Fold Strap in half lengthwise right sides together, and stitch. Stitch elastic to seam. Turn Strap right side out and press. Find the center of Main Front shoulder. Match Strap to raw edge on the center of the shoulder. Repeat for the other end of the Strap and shoulder. Baste.
- OPTIONAL ZIPPER – Trim zipper tape above zipper stop. Place zipper tape at marking. Baste. Repeat with the other side of the zipper. Place Lining right sides together with Main Front. Stitch along both sides of the zipper. Mark ½ inch above bottom of marking. Draw diagonal lines to where stitching stopped on zipper. Cut down marking and diagonal lines. Stitch neckline starting exactly at zipper stitching. Trim corner. Cut elastic to length of seam. Stitch elastic to seam.
- GATHERED OPTION: SIDE SEAMS – Stitch gather stitching at side seams of Main Front and Back. Gather to half the distance. Place right sides together. Baste gathers. Stitch side seams. NOTE – If you have added a zipper do not stitch the Lining side seams.
- LINING AND CROP OPTION: SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Front and Back Lining right sides together, at the side seams. CROP OPTION: Repeat for the Main Front and Back. Then follow step 5. GATHERED OPTION: Skip to step 5.
- NECKLINE – Turn the Main piece wrong side out. Place Crop Lining inside the Main Front, right sides together, matching the shoulders, side seams, and back. Stitch. ZIPPER OPTION: If you have added a zipper your Main and Lining neckline will already be stitched together at the front. Pin the shoulders, side seams and back, then skip to stitching the rest of the seam. Cut elastic to length of seam. Stitch elastic to seam. Repeat to attach elastic to each armscyes. Stitch shoulders, then back neckline. Turn and press. Place Strap onto the Back Lining. Fold the back neckline over the Strap, matching the top edge to the pattern markings. Topstitch.
- GATHERED OPTION: HEM – Pull the Lining out. Reach inside and pull the hem edge of the Main through to meet the hem edge of the Lining, wrong sides together. Stitch. Cut elastic to length of seam. Stitch elastic to seam. Push the Lining through the opening.
- CROP OPTION: HEM – Match the hem of the Main and Lining together. Stitch. Cut elastic to length of seam. Stitch elastic to seam.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch
0.1OPTIONAL Zipper: Interfacing
If you are adding the optional zipper, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and press the interfacing onto the wrong side of both the Main Front and Front Lining, matching the centers.
0.2Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk. If you are adding the OPTIONAL Zipper you will need to transfer the zipper markings onto the wrong side of the Lining and right side of the Main and Interfacing.
1 . Strap1.0This step is the same for either Swim Top option.
1.1Fold the Strap in half along the long edge, right sides together.
1.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
1.3Place the elastic at the seam. Pin.
TIP – Pre stretch the elastic a few times before pinning it
1.4Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic, stitching within the seam allowance, using a zig zag or stretch stitch. Hold the elastic taut, but not stretched while sewing.
NOTE – If you are using a serger to attach the elastic, turn the knife off before starting.
1.5Turn the Strap right side out. Press with the seam in the center of the Strap.
There are several ways to turn the tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here are two options on how I like to do it.
METHOD A – Leave a long tail of threads after backstitching at the end of the tube. Tie the threads with a double knot to secure in the eye of a blunt large needle (you can use a bodkin or a large darning needle).
Push the needle inside the tube all the way until it emerges at the other end. Carefully, pull on the thread and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
METHOD B – Use a loop turner. Insert the loop turner inside the tube until it reaches the other end.
Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside carefully. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you turned the tube right side out completely.
1.6Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Mark the center of each shoulder. Place the Strap at the shoulders, matching the centers, right sides together. Pin.
NOTE – Check that the Strap has not twisted.
1.7Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
2 . OPTIONAL Zipper2.0The OPTIONAL Zipper can be added to either top option. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Zipper, skip to step 3.
2.1Trim the zipper tape above the zipper stop on both sides.
2.2Lay the Main Front right side facing up. Place the zipper at the pattern marking, matching the zipper stop to the top of the marking and the tape edge at the pattern marking. Pin.
NOTE – Check that you have the zipper facing the correct way. The teeth of the zipper should be facing away from the pattern marking and the zipper should be face down with the right-side facing right side of fabric.
TIP – Mark both sides of the zipper tape where the stitching needs to end. This will help you get a crisp finish.
2.3Using a zipper foot, baste along the zipper tape, using ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.
2.4Repeat steps 2.2 to 2.3 to attach the other side of the zipper tape.
2.5Place the Front Lining onto the Main Front, right sides together, matching the neckline. Pin.
2.6Using a zipper foot, stitch using ⅜ inch seam allowance each side of the marking. Start stitching from the top pattern marking down to the bottom pattern marking.
NOTE – You will be stitching the Main and Lining together, sandwiching the zipper tape in between the two layers.
2.7Measure ½ inch up from the bottom of the pattern marking. Draw a line from this point to the bottom of the stitch lines on either side.
2.8Cut along the pattern marking up to the diagonal lines. Then cut along these lines, stopping just before the stitching.
NOTE – Do not cut into the stitching.
2.9Stitch the neckline using a ⅜ seam allowance, stopping at the stitch lines from step 2.6.
NOTE – The stitching needs to be precise as the corner will be trimmed off.
2.10Fold each side of the zipper over so that it lays flat. Mark where the zipper tape ends at the neckline.
2.11Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
2.12Cut a piece of elastic the length of the neckline from the shoulder to the marking from step 2.10.
Place the elastic onto the wrong side of the Main Front. Pin.
2.13Serge or stitch the elastic to the seam allowance.
2.14Repeat steps 2.12 to 2.13 to attach elastic to the other side of the neckline.
2.15Turn the Front right side out and push out the corners.
TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.
2.16There is a small opening at the base of the zipper. Pull the zipper very carefully through the opening, so it sits between the Main Front and the Front Lining.
2.17Close the zipper. Pin the opening of the Main Front and the Front Lining together.
TIP – Use fusible web on the zipper tape, fixing it to the fabric. This will make it easier to topstitch.
2.18Using a zipper foot, topstitch using ⅛ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Stitch carefully across the zipper. You might need to turn the wheel by hand whilst stitching over the zipper.
2.19Open up the Main Front and Front Lining. Trim the zipper if needed.
Continue to step 3 for the Gathered Top or skip to step 4 for the Crop Top.
NOTE – You will need a finished length of 2 or 3 inches for the zipper. If your zipper is longer than 2 or 3 inches, trim it to this length and stitch a bar tack to close the zipper.
3 . Gathered OPTION: Side Seams3.0If you are sewing the Crop OPTION, skip to step 4. If you are sewing the Gathered OPTION, follow below.
3.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches on the Main Front between the two pattern markings.
NOTE – ZIPPER OPTION: You are only gathering the Main Front and not the Crop Lining. Do not stitch these together.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gathering or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch, and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. top and bottom). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
TIP – Use a different colored top thread to the bobbin thread. That way they are easy to differentiate when gathering. Also, it is a great way to use up all those left-over bobbin threads!
3.2Repeat step 3.1 on the other side of the Main Front.
3.3Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 with the Main Back.
3.4Starting at one end, find a pair of bobbin threads and gently pull on them to gather the side seams of the Main Front. The side seams will be gathered to half the distance between the notches.
Gently spread out the Main Front so that it is evenly gathered.
Repeat for the Main Back, matching the gathers of the Main Front.
3.5Place the Main Front and Main Back right sides together, matching the side seams at the armscye and at the hem. Carefully match up the pattern markings. Pin.
NOTE – If you have added the zipper, your Main Front will be attached to the Crop Lining at the neckline. Do not pin the Lining to the Main at the side seams. The Lining is only joined to the Main at the neckline.
3.6Stitch in between the two lines of gathering on both sides, baste using ¼ inch seam allowance. This will help keep the gathers in place before stitching the seam.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
3.7Serge or stitch the entire side seam, using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of the thread so that they come all the way through the fabric.
3.8Repeat step 3.7 on the other side seam.
4 . Lining and Crop OPTION: Side Seams4.0This step is the same for either option. NOTE – We are showing the Lining as a separate piece. If you have added the zipper you will need to move the Main out of the way before continuing below.
4.1Place the Front and Back Lining right sides together, matching the side seam on one side. Pin.
4.2Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
Press seam open.
TIP – Swim fabric can be slippery to work with. To keep the fabric together as you serge the seams, baste just the beginning of the seams together with a sewing machine.
4.3Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.2 on the other side seam.
CROP OPTION: Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the Main Front and Back. Then follow step 5.
GATHERED OPTION: Skip to step 5.
5 . Neckline5.0This step is the same for either option.
5.1Turn the Main piece wrong side out. Place Crop Lining inside the Main Front, right sides together, matching the shoulders, side seams, and back. Pin.
ZIPPER OPTION: If you have added a zipper your Main and Lining neckline will already be stitched together at the front. Pin the shoulders, side seams and back, then skip to step 5.5.
NOTE – We are showing the Gathered OPTION here, but the steps are the same for either Top.
NOTE – Your Strap will be sandwiched in between the Main and Lining. Check that you have not got it pinned into any of the seams.
5.2Serge or stitch along the front neckline between the shoulders using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.3Cut a piece of elastic the length of the neckline. Place the elastic onto the Main Front neckline seam allowance. Pin.
5.4Stitch directly down the middle of the elastic using a zig zag or stretch stitch. Hold the elastic taut, but not stretched while sewing.
NOTE – If you are using a serger to attach the elastic, turn the knife off before starting.
5.5Serge or stitch the shoulder seams using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.6Repeat steps 5.2 to 5.4, attaching elastic to the armscye seams.
5.7Serge or stitch the back neckline using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
5.8Turn the Top right side out. Press.
TIP – Before turning the Straps right side out, fold the seams toward the back or the lining. This will help the Strap sit correctly once turned.
TIP – Using a stretch stitch, Understitch the seam allowance and elastic to the lining all the way around the upper edge of the bodice.
5.9Place the Strap onto the Back Lining. Fold the back neckline over the Strap, matching the top edge to the pattern markings. Pin.
5.10From the right side, topstitch in place using a stretch stitch, cover stitch or twin needle and a ⅛ seam allowance.
NOTE – Be careful not to stitch the Strap in the seam.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5 mm and length of 2.0 mm is recommended, if using a zigzag stitch.
If you are sewing the Crop OPTION, skip to step 7.
6 . Gathered OPTION: Hem6.1Pull the Lining out of the Top.
6.2Reach inside the Crop Lining and pull the hem edge of the Main through to meet the hem edge of the Lining, wrong sides together. Pin.
6.3Serge or stitch using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
6.4Cut a piece of elastic the length of the hem. Place the elastic onto the seam of the Lining, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – If you are using the optional wider elastic for additional support, you will need to overlap the ends by ½ inch and stitch it into a loop first, then attach it to the seam allowance.
NOTE – If you overlap the swim elastic it will create bulk.
6.5Stitch the elastic onto the seam allowance using a stretch stitch. Hold the elastic taut, but not stretched while sewing.
6.6Push the Lining through the opening.
Your Gathered Swim Top is finished!
7 . Crop OPTION: Hem7.1Match the hem of the Main and Lining together. Pin.
7.2Baste the Main and Lining together using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
7.3Cut a piece of elastic the length of the hem. Place the elastic onto the seam allowance of the Lining, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – If you overlap the elastic it will create bulk.
7.4Stitch the elastic onto the seam allowance using a stretch stitch. Hold the elastic taught, but not stretched while sewing.
7.5Fold the bottom edge over to the inside the width of the elastic. Pin.
NOTE – This will encase the elastic and hide it so no elastic will be exposed.
7.6Topstitch along the edge of the elastic.
NOTE – A zig zag stitch with a width of 3.5 mm and length of 2.0 mm is recommended.
TIP – If the elastic seems to be stretched out, give the seam a good pressing. This can help the elastic regain its shape.
Your Crop Swim Top is now finished!
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your High Back Swim Top is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rphighbackswimtop.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewHigh Back Swim Top
Difficulty Level = Beginner
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
12 – 18 mos
30.0
76.0
19.0
48.0
18.5
47.0
19.7
50.0
18 – 24 mos
32.0
81.0
20.0
51.0
19.5
49.5
20.7
53.0
2 – 3 yrs
36.0
91.0
22.0
56.0
21.0
53.0
22.5
57.0
3 – 4 yrs
41.5
105.0
23.0
58.0
22.0
56.0
24.0
61.0
5 – 6 yrs
47.0
119.0
25.0
63.5
23.0
58.0
26.0
66.0
7 – 8 yrs
51.0
129.5
27.0
69.0
24.0
61.0
28.0
71.0
9 – 10 yrs
54.0
137.0
28.0
71.0
25.0
63.5
31.0
79.0
11 – 12 yrs
57.0
144.5
30.0
76.0
26.0
66.0
33.0
84.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Under
bust
Waist
Crop OPTION: center front length
Gathered OPTION: center front length
12 – 18 mos
16.7
16.1
16.4
3.1
6.6
18 – 24 mos
17.7
17.1
17.2
3.5
7.2
2 – 3 yrs
19.4
18.1
18.5
3.7
7.5
3 – 4 yrs
20.3
19.1
19.4
4.2
8.7
5 – 6 yrs
22.0
19.7
20.3
4.5
13.6
7 – 8 yrs
23.7
20.6
21.2
4.7
17.2
9 – 10 yrs
24.6
21.6
22.1
5.1
19.1
11 – 12 yrs
26.5
22.6
23.0
5.5
20.1
Materials and ToolsMain fabric – This swimsuit has been designed for 4-way stretch swim fabrics with 40-50 % stretch to create a snug fit. Lycra gives extra stretch and has excellent recovery. Great choices are nylon lycra or jersey polyester lycra. Increasing the amount of lycra/elastane will provide a tighter, more compression feel to the fit.
Lining fabric – These are typically similar to swim fabrics. They are often a little lighter in weight and have more stretch – a good example is halenka lining which is soft and stretchy, however it can be transparent. You can also use a regular swim fabric instead of a swim lining (as shown throughout the tutorial), as this offers more support.
Fabric Requirements 60inch / 150cm wide (in YARDS)
Crop OPTION
Gathered OPTION
ALL One Fabric
Separate Fabric
ALL One Fabric
Separate Fabric
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
12 – 24 mos
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.50
2 – 4 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
0.75
0.75
0.50
5 – 6 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.00
1.00
0.50
7 – 10 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.25
1.25
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
0.50
0.50
0.50
1.50
1.50
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:- ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- NOTE – Normal elastic is usually made from polyester which tends to break down when it is exposed to excessive heat, sunscreen, chlorine, or salt. We recommend using a cotton/rubber blend as this will last longer with chlorine exposure.
- NOTE – You can use Clear elastic in the seams.
- OPTIONAL – You can use wider cotton elastic for the hem if you would like additional support. ¾ inch wide up to 1 ½ inch – approximately 0.75 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
- OPTIONAL Zipper – 1x plastic chunky zipper. As this is decorative you can use any length. We suggest using a 2-inch zipper for sizes 12mos-3yrs and a 3-inch zipper for size 4-12yrs.
- OPTIONAL Knit Interfacing – a scrap piece if adding the OPTIONAL Zipper. A piece 4×8 inches will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Thread to match – polyester thread is best to use for swimwear as it stretches.
Tools needed are a sewing machine, optional twin needle, optional zipper foot, optional fusible web, optional washaway tape, pins/clips, tailor’s chalk/fabric pen, scissors, tape measure, and a ruler. A serger/overlocker is optional but not required. - ⅜ inch wide Cotton swimwear elastic – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes.
