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This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Cocoon Knot Dress
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Advanced Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
From printing to wearing in a few quick seams, this beautiful Cocoon Knot Dress pattern is showstopper! Can be made with both knit and woven fabrics and features a draped, flattering fit with two length and two sleeve options, and a wrap over tulip skirt. Includes sizes XXS-5XL
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- +Preparation
- Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
- Picking your size – Choose your size from the chest measurements from the size chart above. That way the armscye, chest and neckline will sit correctly. If your waist and hip measurements are in a different size to your chest you will need to grade between sizes. Print the sizes with both your chest, waist and hips visible and grade either in or out at the center back seams.
- Bust adjustment – This dress is designed with a C cup bust (approximately, a ready-to-wear B cup). Given that it is designed for both wovens and knit/stretch fabrics it will be quite forgiving. Cup sizes A to D should fit well. However, if you have over an E cup or higher, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). There are several great tutorials online how to do this with knit. Our favorite ones are in the link at the bottom of this section.
- Height adjustment – This dress is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If you are taller/shorter you may need to add/remove length at the armscye, and the waist seam hem. Follow this tutorial to adjust through the body.
- Sleeve length – Compare the finished measurements of the sleeve to your model’s measurements. If you need to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, add/remove length halfway down the sleeve.
- Bicep – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. The sleeve is not tight fitting so you most likely will not need to make any adjustments. After you’ve made your muslin, if you need to make the bicep bigger/smaller refer to our adjustment tutorial here.
- Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. I would recommend the following as you muslin this dress:
- Use an inexpensive woven / knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out the Bodice, Skirt and one Sleeve if adding. Label each piece with tailors chalk/fabric pen so you know what each piece is. Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment. Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- Your fabric for this pattern needs to be a light weight woven or knit. The best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight woven or knit that has good drape. Knit fabric will also need to have good recovery.
- A light to midweight woven such as are cotton voile, viscose/rayon, satin, silk, bubble crepe, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine will drape.
- Great examples of knit fabrics are single jersey, viscose elastane, double brushed poly, velvet, sweater knits, ponte, scuba, stretch velour and stretch French terry. Your fabric will need to have at least 20-30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. The best option is to have elastane in the fabric which will help with recovery. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 20-30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 20-30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
- Woven dress:
- Invisible zipper – 1x 22-inch
- Mid to light weight interfacing – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Sleeveless OPTION: Woven double fold bias binding ⅝ inches wide – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient.
- Knit dress sleeveless OPTION: Knit double fold bias binding ⅝ inches wide – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient.
- Thread to match
- Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold
- Right Skirt – Fabric cut 1
- Left Skirt – Fabric cut 1
- OPTIONAL Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 on fold
- NOTE – There are two cutting lines – choose the knit or woven cut line
- Back Panel – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
- Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
- Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
- Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
- Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
- Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
- Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges.
Project OverviewCocoon Knot Dress
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This beautiful knot dress can be made from woven or knit to create a flattering fit, draping from the bust over the hips. There are two length options; knee or maxi and two sleeve options; sleeveless or long sleeve. The dress has a dropped shoulder, no side seams and is joined together at the front through a twisted knot. It can be made zip free if using knit, or add an invisible zipper to your woven dress. The skirt wraps over and has a tulip hemline. The front has a low plunging neckline to bust, which can be finished higher up for a little extra coverage.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Shoulder
Bicep
Sleeve Length
Sleeve hem circum
ference
Knee length: center back length
Maxi length: center back length
XXS
35.0
29.0
38.0
5.7
13.0
19.7
8.0
37.5
53.2
XS
37.0
31.0
40.0
6.0
13.7
20.0
8.1
38.0
53.5
S
39.0
32.0
42.0
6.1
14.5
20.1
8.5
38.3
54.1
M
41.0
34.0
44.0
6.2
15.5
20.3
9.0
38.7
54.5
L
43.0
36.0
46.0
6.3
16.3
20.5
9.3
39.2
55.0
XL
43.0
39.0
49.0
6.5
17.2
20.6
9.6
39.5
55.2
XXL
46.0
42.0
52.0
6.6
18.2
20.7
10.0
39.7
55.5
3XL
49.0
46.0
55.0
7.0
19.0
21.0
10.5
40.0
56.0
4XL
52.0
50.0
58.0
7.3
20.0
21.1
11.0
40.3
56.1
5XL
55.0
54.0
61.0
7.6
21.0
21.3
11.0
40.6
56.3
Fitting NotesThe Cocoon Knot Dress is loose fitting at the bust, draping through the hip. The dress is fitted at the back.
Materials and ToolsThe fabric you choose will really affect the fit of this dress, especially the knot at the bust and how it drapes over your hips. You need a flowy, drapey fabric in order for the dress to fit as intended.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Knee Length
Maxi Length
Sleeveless
With sleeves
Sleeveless
With sleeves
XXS
2.50
3.00
3.25
3.25
XS
2.50
3.00
3.25
3.25
S
2.50
3.00
3.25
3.50
M
2.75
3.25
3.50
4.00
L
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
XXL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
4XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
5XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)Knee Length
Maxi Length
Sleeveless
With sleeves
Sleeveless
With sleeves
XXS
1.75
2.25
2.75
2.75
XS
2.00
2.25
2.75
2.75
S
2.00
2.25
2.75
2.75
M
2.25
2.25
3.00
3.00
L
2.25
2.50
3.00
3.00
XL
2.50
2.50
3.25
3.25
XXL
2.50
3.00
3.50
3.50
3XL
3.00
3.00
3.50
3.50
4XL
3.00
3.25
3.75
3.75
5XL
3.25
3.50
3.75
4.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, tailors chalk/fabric pen, invisible zipper foot or regular zipper foot, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Knee length Maxi length OPTIONAL Sleeve XXS 2-6, 9-14, 17-20, 25, 33-38, 42-46, 49-55, 59-64, 69-70 2-21, 25, 33-38, 41-57, 59-65, 69-70 30-32 XS – M 2-6, 9-14, 17-21, 25, 33-38, 42-46, 49-55, 59-64, 69-70 2-21, 25, 33-38, 41-57, 59-65, 69-70 30-32 L – XL 2-6, 9-14, 17-22, 25, 33-38, 42-46, 48-55, 58-64, 69-70 2-22, 25, 33-39, 41-65, 69-70 30-32 XXL 2-6, 9-14, 17-22, 25, 33-38, 41-46, 48-56, 58-64, 68-70 2-23, 25, 33-65, 68-70 30-32 3XL – 4XL 2-6, 9-14, 17-22, 25, 33-38, 41-46, 48-55, 58-61, 68-70 2-22, 25, 33-66, 68-70 22, 30-32 5XL 2-6, 9-14, 17-23, 25, 27-28, 33-38, 41-46, 49-56, 58-64, 68-70 2-23, 25, 27-28, 33-66, 68-70 22, 30-32 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Knee length Maxi length OPTIONAL Sleeve XXS – S 2-6, 9-10, 12-16, 19, 23-24, 29, 37-42, 46-50, 53-59, 63-64 2-10, 12-19, 23-24, 29, 37-60, 62-64 10-11, 20-21 M 2-6, 9-10, 12-16, 19, 23-25, 29, 37-42, 46-50, 52-59, 61-64, 66 2-10, 12-19, 22-25, 29, 37-60, 62-64, 66 10-11, 20-21 L 2-6, 9-10, 12-16, 19, 22-25, 29, 31, 37-42, 46-50, 52-59, 61-64, 66 2-10, 12-19, 22-25, 29, 31, 37-64, 66 10-11, 20-21 XL 2-6, 9-10, 12-16, 19, 22-26, 29, 31-33, 37-42, 46-50, 52-59, 61-65, 67 2-10, 12-19, 22-26, 29, 31-33, 37-64, 66 10-11, 20-21 XXL 2-6, 9-10, 12-16, 19, 22-26, 29, 31-33, 37-42, 46-50, 52-59, 61-66 2-10, 12-19, 22-26, 29, 31-33, 37-66 10-11, 20-21 3XL 2-6, 9-10, 12-16, 19, 22-26, 29, 31-33, 37-43, 46-50, 52-59, 61-66 2-10, 12-19, 22-27, 29, 31-34, 37-66 10-11, 20-21 4XL 2-6, 9-10, 12-17, 19, 22-27, 29, 31-35, 37-43, 46-50, 52-59, 61-66 2-10, 12-19, 22-27, 29, 31-35, 37-66 10-11, 20-21 5XL 2-6, 9-10, 12-17, 19, 22-27, 29, 31-35, 37-43, 46-50, 52-59, 61-66 2-10, 12-19, 22-66 10-11, 20-21 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are to the right:
Sleeveless OPTION:
Bias Binding (Cut 2)Length
XXS
15.1
XS
16.1
S
17.1
M
18.1
L
19.1
XL
20.1
XXL
21.1
3XL
22.2
4XL
23.2
5XL
24.3
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
Fabric TipsTips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics
Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:
Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings, labels, and notches.
- WOVEN DRESS: INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to the Back Panel Lining pieces.
- MARKING THE BODICE – Mark Left / Right (as worn) on Bodice with safety pin or contrasting thread.
- STAYSTITCHING – Staystich the waist and center back of both Skirt pieces and the Bodice.
- BIAS BINDING – Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create single bias binding.
- NECKLINE – Fold the neckline ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch.
- BODICE KEYHOLE – Clip ½ inch into pattern markings. Fold ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch.
- SKIRT HEM – Fold hem of Left Skirt ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. Repeat with Right Skirt.
- JOINING THE SKIRT – Use a French seam to stitch the Left and Right Skirt pieces together as labelled.
- SKIRT KEYHOLES – Clip ½ inch into pattern markings. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Fold again ¼ inch to wrong side. Press. Topstitch. Repeat with second keyhole on Left Skirt.
- ATTACHING LEFT BODICE AND SKIRT – Stitch the left side (as worn) of the Bodice to the Left Skirt (as worn) at the waist, using a French seam.
- FRONT KNOT – Lay the dress flat, right sides facing up. Slide the Right Skirt under the right side of the Bodice, through the opening. Fold the Right Skirt back over the Bodice, to its original position, twisting it so right sides are still facing up, creating a knot. Safety pin the knot together.
- ATTACHING RIGHT BODICE AND SKIRT – Take the unattached raw edge of the Left Skirt and place it under the Right Skirt, matching the keyholes on both Skirts. Baste. Place the basted edge of the Skirt onto the Bodice, matching waist edges, wrong sides together. Pin. Stitch all three layers together using a French seam.
- KNIT BACK PANEL – Place the Main Back Panels right sides together, matching center back seams. Stitch. Repeat with Back Panel Lining pieces. Place Main and Lining Back Panels right sides together at neckline and bottom hem. Stitch. Turn right side out. Press. Finish raw edges of Main and Lining Back Panels. Starting on the left side (as worn) of the Bodice, place the Back Panel Lining onto the dress, right sides together, matching the curved edge of the Back Panel to the center back seam of the Bodice and Skirt. Pin, easing the pieces together. Stitch. Repeat to attach the other side of the Back Panel Lining to the opposite center back seams of the Bodice and Skirt.
- WOVEN BACK PANEL – Place Main Back Panel onto the dress, matching the raw curved edge of the Back Panel onto the center back seam of the Bodice and Skirt, right sides together, matching the waist pattern markings. Pin. Place the Back Panel Lining onto the wrong side of the dress, matching the raw curved edge of the Back Panel onto the center back seam of the Bodice and Skirt. Pin. Stitch. Move the Bodice out the way. Place the Main and Lining Back Panels together at the neckline. Pin. Stitch. Turn and press. Repeat on the other side of the dress. Create memory hem on both Back Panel Lining pieces. Install zipper onto each Main Back Panel. Turn the dress wrong side out. Place the Main Back Panels rights sides together at the center back seam starting ½ inch above the zipper stopper. Pin. Stitch. Turn dress right side out. Fold dress into the middle. Place the raw edges of the Back Panel Lining pieces together. Pin. Stitch from the bottom hem edge up to the zipper marking. Flatten out the bottom hem edge so that the Main and Lining Back Panels are right sides together, matching center back seams. Pin. Stitch. Pull the dress right side out through the opening. Press. Pin memory hem of the Back Panel Lining pieces. Use a slipstitch to stitch the Back Panel Lining.
- SHOULDERS – Starting on the right side of the Bodice, place the front and back shoulders wrong sides together. Match up the armscye edge and start pinning together until you reach the end of the back shoulder, at the pattern marking. You will have a small piece left over on the front shoulder. Fold the left over edge of the front shoulder over the back shoulder, wrong side of front to right side of back. Pin. Stitch the shoulders together using a French seam. Repeat on the left side of the Bodice.
- SLEEVE OPTION – Stitch the long edge of the Sleeve using a French seam. Insert the Sleeve inside the Bodice at the armscye and stitch using a French seam. Repeat for second Sleeve.
- SLEEVELESS OPTION – Stitch bias binding to each armscye.
- HIGHER NECKLINE OPTION – Stitch front neckline from knot up to required measurement.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Woven Dress: Interfacing
Use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Back Panel Lining.
0.3Marking the Bodice
You will need to mark the left and right side (as worn) of the Bodice so that you know which side to attach to the Left and Right Skirt pieces (as worn).
Lay the Bodice open and flat with the neckline edge at the top. As you are looking at it, the right side will need to be marked as Left (as worn) and the left side will be the Right (as worn).
Use a safety pin or stitch a tailors tack using contrasting thread, to mark each side.
NOTE – If you are adding a tailors tack, don’t knot the thread as you will need to remove this stitch later.
TIP – Don’t use pins / clips to make your markings as they will easily fall out when creating the knot.
0.4Staystitching
Staystitching is a line of stitches that are used around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t add stay stitching, the neckline and armscye are likely to stretch and then your garment won’t fit properly.
Doing ‘directional staystitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting about.
Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.
Staystitch the waist and center back of the Left and Right Skirt pieces. Starting at the center, stitch towards each side in the direction of the arrows.
Staystitch the waist and center back of the Bodice.
0.5OPTIONAL Bias Binding
If you are not using store bought binding, you will need to create double fold to bind the armscye.
Follow this free DIY Bias Binding tutorial to create the bias binding.
1 . Neckline1.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the neckline edge without removing any fabric. Fold the neckline ½ inch over to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch using ⅛ seam allowance. Then skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
1.1Fold the neckline of the Bodice ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.
TIP – If you are working with slippery fabrics such as satin or silk, you may find it easier to pin your fold before pressing.
1.2Fold the neckline ¼ inch to the wrong side again to enclose all raw edges. Press.
1.3Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
2 . Bodice Keyhole2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow step 2.1. Serge the waist edge between the two pattern markings without removing any fabric. Fold the keyhole ½ inch over to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch using ⅛ seam allowance. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1Lay the Bodice right side facing up. Snip ½ inch at the two keyhole pattern markings.
TIP – Use the tip of your scissors so that you don’t make a long cut.
2.2Fold the fabric over by ¼ inch to the wrong side between the two pattern markings. Press.
2.3Fold again ¼ inch to the wrong side to enclose the raw edge. Pin. Press.
2.4Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
3 . Skirt Hem3.0This step is the same for either length option.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge along the curved hem edges of the Left Skirt without removing any fabric. Fold the hem over by ½ inch to the wrong side. Pin. Press. Topstitch using ⅛ seam allowance. Repeat for the Right Skirt. Then skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Fold the hem of the Left Skirt (as worn) ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin. Press.
NOTE – You are hemming the tulip shaped edge.
3.2Fold again ¼ inch to the wrong side to enclose the raw edge. Pin. Press.
3.3Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
3.4Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.3 with the Right Skirt (as worn).
4 . Joining the Skirt4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Left and Right Skirt pieces right sides together as labelled. You will be matching the short straight edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of our dress. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here.
4.1With the wrong sides together (right sides out), place the Left and Right Skirt pieces together as labelled. You will be matching the short straight edges. Pin.
4.2Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.3Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.
TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
4.4Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.
4.5Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge.
This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).
4.6Turn right side out and press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
5 . Skirt Keyholes5.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Repeat step 2.1, snipping in between the two pattern markings on the first keyhole and Second Keyhole of the Left Skirt and Right Skirts. Serge the keyhole edge without removing any fabric. Fold the keyhole ½ inch over to the wrong side. Press. Topstitch using ⅛ seam allowance. Then skip to step 6.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
5.1Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 to create the first Skirt keyhole between the two pattern markings on the Left and Right Skirts.
5.2Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 to stitch the second keyhole on the Left Skirt between the pattern markings.
6 . Attaching Left Bodice and Skirt6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Left Skirt onto the Bodice, right sides together, matching waist edges and ends of the keyhole. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 7.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
6.1Stitch the left side (as worn) of the Bodice to the Left Skirt (as worn) at the waist, using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 4.1 to 4.5.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out). Pin the waist of the Left Skirt to the Bodice waist matching the ends of the keyhole. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
7 . Front Knot7.0We recommend reading through all the steps first, before starting to create the front knot.
It may seem tricky, but if you go slowly it will all come together. Watch this video to help you create it.
7.1Lay the dress flat, right sides facing up. You are going to slide the Right Skirt under the right side of the Bodice, through the opening.
Fold the Right Skirt into your hand, from the raw tulip edge to the waist edge.
7.2Lift the right side (as worn) of the Bodice. Slide the Right Skirt underneath the Bodice and up to the neckline.
7.3Fold the Right Skirt back over the Bodice, to its original position, twisting it so that right sides are still facing up. Both Skirt pieces should be next to each other. This will create a knot.
7.4Pin the knot together using a safety pin to prevent it from coming undone.
8 . Attaching Right Bodice and Skirt8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 8.1 to 8.2. Place the Skirt and Bodice right sides together, matching the waist edges. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Then skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
8.1You are going to attach the Left Skirt to the waist of the Bodice under the Right Skirt.
Take the unattached raw edge of the Left Skirt and place it under the Right Skirt, matching the keyholes on both Skirts, both right sides facing up. Pin.
8.2Baste all the edges together using a ¼ seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
8.3Place the basted edge of the Skirt onto the Bodice, matching the full waist edges, wrong sides together (right sides out). Pin.
8.4Stitch all three layers together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 4.1 to 4.5.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
9 . Knit Back Panel9.0If you are sewing a woven dress, skip to step 10. If you are sewing a knit dress, follow below.
9.1Place the Main Back Panel pieces right sides together, matching the center back seams. Pin.
9.2Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.3Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.2 with the Back Panel Lining pieces.
9.4Place the Main and Lining Back Panels right sides together at the neckline and bottom hem. Pin.
9.5Serge or stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
9.6Turn right side out. Press.
You will now treat this as one Back Panel piece. The Lining side will be attached to the dress.
9.7REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Zigzag stitch both outer edges to finish the raw edges of the Main and Lining Back Panels.
9.8Starting on the left side (as worn) of the Bodice, place the Back Panel (Main side) onto the dress, right sides together, matching the curved edge of the Back Panel to the center back seam of the Bodice and Skirt. Pin.
Continue pinning, easing the pieces together at the ½ inch seam allowance.
9.9Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You are stitching through three layers.
TIP – Use a walking foot to help feed the fabric through the machine.
Repeat steps 9.8 to 9.9 to attach the other side of the Back Panel Lining to the opposite center back seams of the Bodice and Skirt.
10 . Woven Back Panel10.0If you have sewn a knit dress, skip to step 11. If you are sewing a woven dress, follow below.
It is important for the look and fit of the back of the garment to use an invisible zipper. If you use a regular zipper, or don’t install the invisible zipper correctly, it can affect the finished garment measurements, which may mean the finished dress will be too big. To help with this, we have made a short video.
Read through the steps below, then watch the video. Please note this video is from the Cerena Romper pattern, but the sewing steps are similar.
10.1Place a Main Back Panel onto the dress, matching the raw curved edge of the Back Panel onto the center back seam of the Bodice and Skirt, right sides together, matching the waist pattern marking on the Back Panel to the waist of the dress. Pin.
10.2Place the right side of the Back Panel Lining onto the wrong side of the dress, matching the raw curved edge of the Back Panel onto the center back seam of the Bodice and Skirt. Pin.
NOTE – The dress will be sandwiched between the Main and Lining Back Panels.
10.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.4Move the Bodice out the way. Place the Main and Lining Back Panels together at the neckline. Pin.
10.5Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.6Turn right side out. Press.
10.7Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.6 to attach the second Main Back Panel onto the other side of the dress.
10.8Fold the raw edge of the Back Panel Lining over to the wrong side by ½ inch, up to the zipper marking. Press to create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Back Panel Lining hem later.
Repeat on the other Back Panel Lining.
10.9Unzip the invisible zipper and place it teeth face down onto the ironing board.
When the zipper is closed, the teeth of the zipper curl upwards. By ironing the teeth, it will help them lie flatter, which will make them easier to sew.
I find the best way to do this is to use my fingers to press the teeth gently towards the center. Butt the iron up against the teeth gliding the iron along the zipper. The zipper will look a little odd, but the teeth should lay flat.
NOTE – Use a warm dry (no steam) iron. Be careful not to iron directly on top of the teeth as it can damage or melt them. The goal is just to flatten the zipper a little to make it easier to attach.
10.10With the right zipper tape on the left side of the Main Back Panel and the zipper teeth facing in towards the bodice, right sides together (zipper teeth facing in towards your bodice), line up the zipper with the top of the dress. Match the zipper stop to the top of the seam where the Main and Lining Back Panels join. Pin only to the Main Back Panel.
TIP – Take a moment here to check you’ve got the correct side of the zipper on the correct side of the dress.
Shorten the zipper if necessary, to match the zipper length of 22 inches. To do this, stitch a stationary bar tack several times over the zip to stop the zipper going below this point. Then cut the remaining zipper tape off.
TIP – A stationary bar tack is a wide stitch that does not go anywhere. Stitch from side to side, not moving forward. You can do this by hand, or set your machine to a 0 stitch length, and a stitch width that reaches from one side of the zip to the other.
10.11INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT OPTION – If you have an invisible zipper foot, put this on your machine now. Line the zipper teeth up with the left side groove of the foot. This will help roll the teeth to the side while stitching close to the zipper teeth. Stitch slowly from the top of the zipper all the way down as close to the zipper pull as you can.
REGULAR ZIPPER FOOT OPTION (in the picture) – If you don’t have an invisible zipper foot, you can use a regular zipper foot. Stitch the zipper to the dress, as close to the zipper teeth as you can. Stitch from the top of the zipper as close to the zipper pull as you can.
10.12Close the zipper. You will then be able to check your stitches are correct and that the zipper can close easily.
10.13Open the zipper. Repeat steps 10.10 to 10.12 with the left zipper tape on the right side of the dress.
It may feel awkward but do still stitch from the top of the dress downwards.
TIP – Check you are able to close the zipper before moving onto the next step.
Trim the excess off the top of the zipper tape. Be careful not to cut the metal stopper or below as you won’t be able to close the zipper.
10.14Turn the dress wrong side out. Place the Main Back Panels rights sides together at the center back seam starting ½ inch above the zipper stopper. Pin.
10.15Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.16Turn the dress right side out. You will be sandwiching the dress in between the two Back Panel Lining pieces.
10.17Fold the dress into the middle. Place the raw edges of the Back Panel Lining pieces together. Pin.
10.18Stitch from the bottom hem edge up to the zipper marking, using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.19Flatten out the bottom hem edge so that the Main and Lining Back Panels are right sides together, matching center back seams. Pin.
10.20Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
10.21Pull the dress right side out through the opening of the Back Panels. Press.
10.22Pin the memory hem of the Back Panel Lining to the Bodice and Main Back Panel.
NOTE – Check that folded hem edge is close to but not covering the zipper.
10.23Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the Back Panel Lining to the zipper. This type of stitch allows you to stitch it closed without seeing any stitching on the inside or outside of the dress. You will be stitching along the folded edge. Insert the needle into the zipper tape and then through the folded edge of the Back Panel Lining.
10.24Insert the needle into the zipper tape, directly across from the previous stitch and through a small amount of the fabric. Pull the thread through so that it is taut.
10.25Directly across from your last stitch, insert the needle into the folded edge of the Back Panel Lining and pull the thread through.
10.26Continue stitching from the zipper tape to the folded edge, alternating between the two.
NOTE – You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch, however we left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like.
Repeat steps 10.22 to 10.26 to attach the Back Panel Lining on the other side of the dress.
11 . Shoulders11.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, pin the right Front and Back Shoulders right sides together beginning at the armscye. The Front side will be longer. Fold the extra fabric towards the back side to make them the same length. Serge. Skip to step 12.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
11.1Starting on the right side of the Bodice, place the front and back shoulders wrong sides together (right sides out). Match up the armscye edge and start pinning together until you reach the end of the back shoulder, at the pattern marking. You will have a small piece left over on the front shoulder.
11.2Fold the left over edge of the front shoulder over the back shoulder, wrong side of front to right side of back. Pin.
11.3Stitch the shoulders together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 4.1 to 4.5.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
11.4Repeat steps 11.1 to 11.3 to stitch the front and back shoulders together on the left side of the Bodice.
12 . OPTIONAL Sleeves12.0If you are sewing a sleeveless dress, skip to step 13. If you are adding OPTIONAL Sleeves, follow below.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Mark the center of the Sleeve. Place the long raw edge right sides together. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Place your Sleeve inside the dress, right sides together, matching the center of the Sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin. Serge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other Sleeve. Skip to step 12.4 to hem the sleeves.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
12.1Find and mark the center of a Sleeve.
12.2Stitch the long edge of the Sleeve using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 4.1 to 4.5.
Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
12.3Stitch the Sleeve using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 4.1 to 4.5.
Insert the Sleeve inside the Bodice at the armscye, wrong sides together (right sides out), matching the center to the shoulder seam. Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance.
Turn and press.
Stitch again at ¼ inch.
Press.
12.4Fold the Sleeve hem to the wrong side by ¼ inch. Press.
FIT CHECK – Before hemming, try the dress on to check the Sleeve length. Adjust the Sleeve if needed.
12.5Fold ¼ inch to the wrong side again. Pin. Press.
12.6Topstitch using a ⅛ seam allowance.
Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.6 for the other Sleeve.
If you would prefer a higher neckline, skip to step 14. Otherwise your dress is finished!
13 . Sleeveless OPTION13.0This step is the same for knit or woven.
13.1Open the bias binding and fold over the short end to the inside about a ¼ inch and press.
Place it onto an armscye of the Bodice, right sides together, ¼ inch from the raw edges. Pin.
Start stitching on the folded end of the binding and continue around the armscye. Stitch in the first fold aligning the edge of the bias binding ¼ inch in from the armscye. Overlap the end over the fold and stop stitching after crossing over it.
Trim off any excess binding.
13.2Hold back the binding and trim the Bodice seam allowance a ¼ of an inch.
13.3Clip the curves around the armscye, being very careful not to cut into the stitching.
NOTE – Snipping the seam allowance reduces the amount of fabric in the seam at the curve and allows the fabric to move so the seam will lay flat.
TIP – Use pinking shears to trim the seam and snip into the seam allowance.
Press the bias binding and seam allowance away from the armscye.
13.4Fold the binding all the way to the wrong side, over the seam allowance and enclosing all raw edges. The binding will now be on the inside.
NOTE – The finished bias facing will be ¼ inch wide and will not be seen from the right side.
13.5Stitch the bias binding to the armscye about ⅛ inch from the edge of the bias tape to hold it in place.
The bias tape should now be attached to the armscye on both sides and the raw edges completely enclosed.
Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.5 on the other armscye.
14 . Higher Neckline OPTION14.0FIT CHECK – As the dress pieces have different grainlines and can stretch, it is best to let it hang overnight to allow the fabric to rest. Then try the dress on. If you feel the neckline is too low for your personal preference, follow below to stitch it higher. Decide where you would like the neckline to sit, then measure how much you will need to stitch to close the neckline.
14.1Mark where you would like the neckline to end on the Bodice.
With the dress wrong side out, match up the shoulder seams. Then take the dress from above the knot up to your marking, placing the turned under edges of the neckline right sides together. Pin.
14.2Stitch directly over your previous stitch lines, starting just above the knot.
TIP – Backstitch at the start and end to secure the stitching in place.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Cocoon Knot Dress is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpcocoonknotdress.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
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All Rights Reserved
Makers Gallery
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewCocoon Knot Dress
Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner
This beautiful knot dress can be made from woven or knit to create a flattering fit, draping from the bust over the hips. There are two length options; knee or maxi and two sleeve options; sleeveless or long sleeve. The dress has a dropped shoulder, no side seams and is joined together at the front through a twisted knot. It can be made zip free if using knit, or add an invisible zipper to your woven dress. The skirt wraps over and has a tulip hemline. The front has a low plunging neckline to bust, which can be finished higher up for a little extra coverage.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Chest
Waist
Hip
Shoulder
Bicep
Sleeve Length
Sleeve hem circum
ference
Knee length: center back length
Maxi length: center back length
XXS
35.0
29.0
38.0
5.7
13.0
19.7
8.0
37.5
53.2
XS
37.0
31.0
40.0
6.0
13.7
20.0
8.1
38.0
53.5
S
39.0
32.0
42.0
6.1
14.5
20.1
8.5
38.3
54.1
M
41.0
34.0
44.0
6.2
15.5
20.3
9.0
38.7
54.5
L
43.0
36.0
46.0
6.3
16.3
20.5
9.3
39.2
55.0
XL
43.0
39.0
49.0
6.5
17.2
20.6
9.6
39.5
55.2
XXL
46.0
42.0
52.0
6.6
18.2
20.7
10.0
39.7
55.5
3XL
49.0
46.0
55.0
7.0
19.0
21.0
10.5
40.0
56.0
4XL
52.0
50.0
58.0
7.3
20.0
21.1
11.0
40.3
56.1
5XL
55.0
54.0
61.0
7.6
21.0
21.3
11.0
40.6
56.3
Materials and ToolsThe fabric you choose will really affect the fit of this dress, especially the knot at the bust and how it drapes over your hips. You need a flowy, drapey fabric in order for the dress to fit as intended.
- Your fabric for this pattern needs to be a light weight woven or knit. The best results and fit will be achieved with a medium or light weight woven or knit that has good drape. Knit fabric will also need to have good recovery.
- A light to midweight woven such as are cotton voile, viscose/rayon, satin, silk, bubble crepe, rayon, silk crepe, crepe de chine will drape.
- Great examples of knit fabrics are single jersey, viscose elastane, double brushed poly, velvet, sweater knits, ponte, scuba, stretch velour and stretch French terry. Your fabric will need to have at least 20-30% stretch to get the fit as it’s designed. The best option is to have elastane in the fabric which will help with recovery. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 20-30% longer than its original length, then it has at least 20-30% stretch. I.e. A 2-inch piece of unstretched fabric should be able to be stretched to 2.6 inches.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Knee Length
Maxi Length
Sleeveless
With sleeves
Sleeveless
With sleeves
XXS
2.50
3.00
3.25
3.25
XS
2.50
3.00
3.25
3.25
S
2.50
3.00
3.25
3.50
M
2.75
3.25
3.50
4.00
L
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
XXL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
3XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
4XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
5XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)Knee Length
Maxi Length
Sleeveless
With sleeves
Sleeveless
With sleeves
XXS
1.75
2.25
2.75
2.75
XS
2.00
2.25
2.75
2.75
S
2.00
2.25
2.75
2.75
M
2.25
2.25
3.00
3.00
L
2.25
2.50
3.00
3.00
XL
2.50
2.50
3.25
3.25
XXL
2.50
3.00
3.50
3.50
3XL
3.00
3.00
3.50
3.50
4XL
3.00
3.25
3.75
3.75
5XL
3.25
3.50
3.75
4.00
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Woven dress:
- Invisible zipper – 1x 22-inch
- Mid to light weight interfacing – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- Sleeveless OPTION: Woven double fold bias binding ⅝ inches wide – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient.
- Knit dress sleeveless OPTION: Knit double fold bias binding ⅝ inches wide – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, tailors chalk/fabric pen, invisible zipper foot or regular zipper foot, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.