Cross Body Bag

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions to apply fusible foam to the to the wrong side of Piece A, between the markings.

NOTE – Do not apply the second fusible foam to the Full Front (A) piece.

Repeat to attach fleece interfacing to pieces B, C, D, E, G, I, and OPTIONAL J.

Place the Piece C main and lining right sides together. Pin along top edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Turn right sides out and press.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – A decorative stitch can be a fun option here, for example a long triple straight stitch.

Open the layers so each side is lying flat.

On the contrasting fabric, at the previously marked placement, attach your magnetic snap to the contrasting fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – Use the snap backer to mark placement of the snap and make two small holes for the connectors (just a bit smaller than the connector’s width).

TIP – Use a seam ripper to weave the point through the fabric and out again and slice through. This “threading” will prevent you from making a hole that is too long.

TIP – Bend the connectors towards the middle. This prevents them poking through the fabric.

TIP – Iron a small piece of fleece interfacing over this to prevent rubbing damage.

Place Snap Pocket on top of Piece A, matching all raw edges.

Check the marked placement of the popper.

Attach the opposite side of your magnetic snap to Piece A.

Pin the Snap Pocket in place along all raw edges of Snap Pocket.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Place Piece B and Piece C right sides together and pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press seam to base and top stitch close to the edge to match first side.

Turn the front piece wrong side up and iron fusible foam centered on the wrong side.

Matching centers, align wrong side of Piece F to right side of Second Full Front, along top edge. Align zipper pocket placement markings.

NOTE – If you cut the pocket piece using the cut chart, rather than the pattern piece, transfer the pattern marking to Piece F now.

The rectangle should be 7” long and ¼” wide.

Shorten your stitch length and stitch around the rectangle, stitching exactly on the lines.

TIP – When you reach a corner, leave the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the pieces. Lower the presser foot and stitch down the short side.

Draw a line down the center of the rectangle, stopping ½ inch from each end.

Draw a line connecting the end of the straight line to each corner, creating Y shapes at each end of the line.

Carefully snip through both layers along the middle line, shown in red here, then the corners on each end.

Take careful, slow snips to the corners, getting close to the stitches without cutting through them.

Push the Pocket through the opening and press until the Pocket lays smooth and flat.
3.6

Align the 10-inch zipper behind the rectangle just created. Make sure it is straight and the zipper pull faces your preferred direction.

Pin in place.

TIP – Use Wonder Tape to hold zipper in place to prevent buckling and make attachment easier.

Using your zipper foot, topstitch around the pocket opening.

NOTE – Be sure to catch the little triangles at the end of the Pocket when topstitching.

TIP – At the zip ends stitch very slowly and use your wheel to move manually if you need to. It is recommended that you stitch at least three lines of stitching here to ensure the zip ends are secure.

Trim away excess zipper.

OPTIONAL – If the hem tape is wide, use hemming tape to iron down the zip selvedges to prevent these getting caught in the zip and create a neatly finished piece.

Fold up Piece F, aligning the top edges right sides together and stitch the two sides of the pocket using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Catch ends of zipper in seam to add security.

Baste the top of the pocket to the top of the front, keeping your basting stitches ¼ inch from the edge.

Place the two Full Front pieces right sides together, matching all the edges. Pin along both sides and bottom edge.

Stitch the sides and the bottom using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Match the corner edges, right sides together, pulling it flat. Make sure to line up the edge seam with the bottom seam.

Pin in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

TIP – This seam is very thick, so stitch slowly and carefully. You may have to use your hand wheel in places. You may also need to switch to a needle for heavy cloth like a denim needle size 100/ 16.

Repeat steps 4.3 to 4.4 for second corner.

Fold Piece I in half right sides together and pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to make it easier to turn, then turn Tab side out and press so that the seam runs down the center of the wrong side.

Top stitch both sides using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread a metal slider through tab, fold tab in half and pin.

Pin Tab to Bag, matching the middle of the Tab to the side seam as shown in photo.

NOTE – Be sure to flatten seam allowance of bag outer to either side.

Stitch in place as close to the raw edge as possible.

TIP – Do a few lines of stitching to ensure the tab is securely attached as this seam will be “load bearing”.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.7 to create the second Tab.

Fold Piece G right side together and pin.

Stitch both short edges, using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Trim the corners. Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

Turn right side out and press.

TIP – Use a blunt instrument e.g., a chop stick to poke out your corners. Nothing sharp because sharp implements can cause holes in the corners.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.4 to create the other Zip Side.

Mark the center of the top edge of Piece D and the center of your Zip Sides pieces.

Match the two centers and pin.

Matching the edges, place Piece E on top, right sides together and pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the Zip Side piece towards the base of the bag, and the seam allowance towards the top of the bag.

Topstitch through Piece E and all seam allowance.

For the second bag lining, because it is so vital that the Zip Sides line up exactly, we will proceed as follows:
Lay your completed first Lining right side up.

Place your second Zip Side piece exactly on top of the first Zip Side piece.

Place your second Piece D on top, right side down. Match the bottom edges.

Pin Zip Side to Piece D.

Now flip the pinned piece and lay Piece E on top, pin all layers in place.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Following these steps precisely will ensure your two Zip Sides line up exactly for a professional finish.

Place the two Lining pieces right sides together, matching all raw edges.

Pin along both sides and bottom.

Stitch the side seams using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Stitch the bottom using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 5-inch gap for turning.

Repeat steps 4.3 to 4.5 to stitch corners.

Place Bag outer inside Bag Lining right sides together, matching the side seams.

Pin the top edge.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Be careful that your metal sliders are well away from the foot of your sewing machine.

TIP – After sewing around the top edge once, stitch all the way around again. It will be easier to go around smoothly the second time, keeping to an exact ½” seam allowance. This will give a clean, smooth finish.

Turn the bag out through the gap left in the bottom of the lining.

Press the top seam really well.

To close the gap left in step 7.12, either stitch closed on your machine with a scant ⅛ inch seam allowance or follow below to use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’).

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the pouch so that the tail is now hidden inside.

NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

Push the lining inside the bag and press the top seam.

Pull your Zip Sides out of the bag.

Aligning centers, pin one half of the 15” zipper to one Zip Side.

Stitch in place close to the edge of the Zip Side.

OPTIONAL – If the zipper tape is quick wide, either iron on hem tape to adhere the edges to the Zip Edge or sew another line of stitches near the edge of the zipper tape.

Carefully aligning the second side of the zipper to the second Zip Side, repeat steps 9.2 to 9.3 to complete the zipper attachment.

We will be folding and stitching Piece H as we did Piece G above.

Fold Piece H in half. Press.

Fold both raw edges back towards central fold in a zig zag effect so that you have the outer two folds matching and the raw edges matching with the central fold. Pin.

Sew down one side, ensuring the two folds match exactly.

Trim one zip end so that you have about 2 ½ inch of zip past the Zip Sides.

Place this Zip End inside the Zip Tab and mark where the other line of stitching should be sewn.

NOTE – Stitching each end separately allows the Zip Tab to custom fit to your specific zipper.

Take Zip Tab off zip and stitch the second side.

Trim excess seam allowance.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.6 to form the second Zip Tab.

Turn right side out and poke out corners using a blunt object.

Replace each Zip Tab onto the ends of the zipper and stitch in place.

TIP – As the zipper will be zipped and unzipped against the Zip Tab, we recommend reinforcing the stitching.

You can choose from three OPTIONAL Straps, for the OPTIONAL Leather Strap, follow below. For the OPTIONAL Webbing Strap, skip to step 12.

For the OPTIONAL Fabric Strap, skip to step 13.

TIP – Any Strap OPTION can be finished with a fixed length. In this case, measure the desired length, cut the Strap, then continue, skipping the steps of adjusting the slider.

Fold a leather Strap end around the remaining opening on a metal slider. Mark the point the strap folds back on itself.

Remove the Strap from the slider.

Mark the placement of the rivets, ¼ inch from each edge.

Punch the rivet holes, making sure each pair is perfectly parallel.

Use those 4 holes to mark the holes on the other side of the Strap, and punch those, too.

Thread that Strap end through the free side of a slider joined to the bag, and rivet in place.

If making a fixed Strap, repeat to attach second end of Strap.

Thread the free Strap end through the extra slider from below, then over the center bar and back through to the bottom side. You should be able to see a full rectangle of the slider from the right side of the Strap.

Thread the free end through the other slider and back under towards the bag.

Thread Strap end around the middle bar of the strap slider, starting closest to the side which is already sewn to the Bag. Then looping over the center bar on the return path, folding the strap end back on itself.

Aligning holes, attach rivets to secure Strap end.

Slide one end of Webbing through metal slider on Bag.

Fold Webbing end over itself 1 inch, then 1 inch again. This will conceal the raw edge of the Webbing.

Stitch a ½ inch box shape though all layers to secure the end of the Webbing Strap in place.

Thread the free Strap end through the extra slider from below, then over the center bar and back through to the bottom side. You should be able to see a full rectangle of the slider from the right side of the Strap.

Thread the free end through the other slider and back under towards the bag.

Thread Strap end around the middle bar of the strap slider, starting closest to the side which is already sewn to the Bag. Then looping over the center bar on the return path, folding the strap end back on itself.

Fold Strap back on itself and follow steps 12.1 to 12.2 to stitch the second end.

Fold the Fabric Strap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Press.

Open the Fabric Strap then fold the two long sides into the middle and press.

Refold the Fabric Strap along the center edge, folding the raw edges to the inside.

Press again to set the folds.

Open Fabric Strap and fold right sides together along one short edge.

NOTE – This will be folded opposite of what we just pressed.

Stitch along short edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip corners and trim seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Turn Fabric Strap right sides out, refolding along pressed lines and tucking the raw edges inside the strap.

Pin along open edge.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from each edge.

TIP – Sew one long edge and one short edge, then flip your strap over and sew the opposite short edge and long edge. This will add strength and prevent your strap from twisting due to topstitching.

Slide one end of Strap through metal slider on Bag.

Fold Strap end over itself 1 inch, then 1 inch again.

NOTE – This double fold helps with stability and structure for the strap.

NOTE – The Photos shown in the remaining steps show webbing rather than the fabric strap, however, the construction is the same.

Stitch a ½ inch box shape though all layers to secure the end of the Strap in place.

Thread the free Strap end through the extra slider from below, then over the center bar and back through to the bottom side. You should be able to see a full rectangle of the slider from the right side of the Strap.

Thread the free end through the other slider and back under towards the Bag.

Thread Strap end around the middle bar of the strap slider, starting closest to the side which is already sewn to the Bag. Then looping over the center bar on the return path, folding the Strap end back on itself.

Fold Strap back on itself and follow steps 13.8 to 13.9 to stitch the second end.