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This pattern is copyrighted 2022 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
Dolls' Dragon Magic Blanket Tails
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This dragon blanket sewing pattern is quick and easy to sew and perfect for lounging about in. It features a face, wings, and finned tail, which is perfect for using up scraps of fabric. There is optional elastic at the opening for a comfortable fit.
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- +Preparation
- Height adjustment – It’s oversized and created for comfort so no need to adjust for height.
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- OPTIONAL lightweight Interfacing for Spikes – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ½ inch wide Elastic – approximately 0.5 yard
- OPTIONAL Double-sided interfacing (also called ‘heat n bond’, ‘bondaweb’, fusible web or iron-on adhesive). This is used to attach the face pieces. It gives a great finish. However, if you don’t have this, you can just top stitch these pieces on.
- OPTIONAL Fabric glue – If you are not using double-sided interfacing, you use this as an alternative.
- Stuffing – You will need a handful of stuffing for inside the Ears, Spikes and Wing Spines. You could use poly-fil, batting or any small fabric scraps.
- OPTIONAL – For the Ears, medium or heavy weight iron on interfacing can be used to help them stand upright. Only a small amount is required (¼ yard will be more than sufficient for all sizes)
- OPTIONAL – If you want the stitching that holds the face pieces on to be nearly invisible, you can use clear nylon thread (also called invisible thread).
- Thread to match
- Body – Fabric cut 2 on fold, Lining cut 2 on fold
- Wing Spine – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
- Wings – Fabric cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
- Dragon Tail – Fabric cut 2 on fold, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 2 on fold
- Outer Eye – Fabric cut 2, (1x mirror pair)
- Inner Eye – Fabric cut 2
- Nostril – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Spike – Fabric cut 12, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 12
- Ears – Fabric cut 4, OPTIONAL Interfacing cut 4
- Waistband – Fabric cut 2 on fold
Project OverviewDragon Blanket Tail
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Climb inside this fun and magical blanket tail. Great fun for children and adults alike – there is even a doll size too. With wings, ears, and spikes, you can really set your imagination free! The blanket tail has an optional elastic at the opening to fit comfortably over your hips with your feet fitting into the ends of the tail.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
18 in Dolls
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Elasticated waist
Hips
Center front length
Doll
13.6
10.0
13.6
14.5
Fitting NotesThis is not a fitted garment – it’s a cuddle blanket style. The size is listed above.
Materials and ToolsYou will need a light to medium weight woven or non-stretch fabric for the body e.g. quilting cotton, cotton, felt, lightweight fleece or lame. You can use the same for the body lining, although we wouldn’t recommend using lame.
We will not be finishing the edges of the Nostrils and Eyes. They will be top stitched on and/or glued using double sided interfacing. If you choose a fabric which frays for these, we recommend following the double-sided interfacing option for these to reduce fraying. If you choose a fabric which does not fray, you can use any option you like for attaching them.
The Ears and Spikes are finished so you can use any woven fabric you like for them.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main body
Body lining
Spikes
Wing
Wing spine
Ears
Tail
Eyes nostril
Dolls
0.50
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
Scraps
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main body
Body lining
Spikes
Wing
Wing spine
Ears
Tail
Eyes nostril
Dolls
0.50
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
Scraps
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Pattern Dolls 2-4 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Dragon tail Dolls 2-4 All Other Files
Design Page
Use this page to plan your Blanket Tail.
Color in, or glue scraps of fabric, on the diagram to try different fabrics and looks.
Download Design Page - Dragon Blanket A4Download Design Page - Dragon Blanket USDownload Download Download Download Download Download Download DownloadCutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Elastic (Cut 1)
Waistband (Cut 2)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Doll
0.40
11.00
2.25
8.00
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings and labels.
- INTERFACING – Apply optional interfacing to Dragon Tail, Spikes and Ears. Apply optional double-sided interfacing to Eyes and Nostrils. Peel backing from Inner Eye and press to Outer Eye.
- SPIKES AND EARS – Stitch two Spikes, right sides together, along the outer curved edges. Clip top. Trim seam allowance. Turn out and press. Topstitch. Repeat for all Spikes and Ears. Stuff all pieces.
- WINGS – Stitch the Wing Spike to Wing. Trim and press seam allowance. Repeat for all pieces. Stitch two mirror Wings right sides together, leaving the long straight edge open. Clip into the ‘V’ and clip corners. Turn right side out and press. Stitch in the ditch across seam and stuff Wing Spike. Repeat for second Wing.
- DRAGON TAIL – Stitch Tails together along curves. Trim and snip into ‘V’. Trim points. Turn out, press and topstitch. Stitch Dragon Tail to straight edge of Main Body.
- WAISTBAND – Stitch Waistband to Main Front Body, right sides together, matching raw edges. Press seam open. Flip the Waistband up. Fold raw edge of Waistband ½ inch. Repeat for Waistband to Back Main Body.
- ATTACHING FACE AND WINGS – Fold seam allowance on bottom of Spikes and Ears into the inside by ¼ inch. Top stitch to Main Body. Press/glue Eyes and Nostrils. Top stitch Outer and Inner Eyes. Baste Wings.
- BODY – Lay Front Main Body right sides up. Fold Ears down and pin Wings. Fold Dragon Tail up, then fold edges. Pin. Place Main Body pieces right sides together. Stitch around outside edge. Clip corners and trim. Stitch Body Lining pieces together. Place Body Lining inside, matching raw edge to the seam allowance. Fold Waistband over and stitch in the ditch, leaving a 1 ½ to 3-inch gap for the optional elastic, or stitching closed if not adding elastic. Thread elastic, overlap ½ inch and stitch. Topstitch gap closed.
- 2x Nostrils
- 2x Inner Eyes
- 2x Outer Eyes
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and labels to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
If you are adding the OPTIONAL interfacing to the Dragon Tail, Spikes and Ears, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to iron it onto all pieces.
If you are using double-sided interfacing for the face pieces, follow below. If you are gluing or stitching instead and are not using double-sided interfacing, skip to step 1.
Trace each of the face pieces onto your double-sided interfacing. Roughly cut around each of the pieces.
0.3Iron the cut out pieces onto the appropriate colored fabric, using the manufacturer’s recommendations. Cut around each piece exactly on the lines and place the Nostril aside.
TIP – Make sure to use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest placing a pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.
0.4Take the Inner Eyes and peel the backing off the double-sided interfacing. Place these in the center of the Outer Eyes and press in place.
1 . Spikes and Ears1.1Place two Spikes, right sides together. Pin along the outer curved edges.
1.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – When you reach the top point, drop the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric and continue stitching down the other side of the Spike.
1.3Clip the corner to reduce bulk.
1.4Trim the seam allowance using pinking shears.
This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.
An alternative to using pinking shears is to clip or notch the seam allowance.
1.5Turn the Spike right sides out and press the seams.
TIP – Push out the corner with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there is a nice sharp corner.
1.6OPTIONAL – Topstitch the outer curves using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
1.7Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 with the rest of the Spikes and both sets of Ears.
1.8Stuff the Spikes and Ears solid, but not too tightly. Pin the bottom edge closed.
TIP – Use a pointy, blunt object such as a chopstick or knitting needle to help push the stuffing inside.
2 . Wings2.1Take a matching pair Wing Spine and Wing and place them together, right sides facing up.
Flip the Wing Spine over onto the Wing, right sides together.
2.2Match the bottom corners of the Wing Spine to the top corners of the Wing. Pin.
Continue pinning the Wing Spine to the Wing.
2.3Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
2.4Trim the seam allowance using pinking shears. Press the seam allowance down towards the Wing.
This will prevent the fabric from bunching up when turned out as the notches from the pinking allows the fabric to spread out.
An alternative to using pinking shears is to clip or notch the seam allowance.
2.5Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.4 for the other three Wing Spines and Wings.
2.6Place two mirror Wings right sides together.
Pin together, leaving the long straight edge open.
2.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
TIP – When you reach the corners, drop the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric and continue stitching.
2.8Clip into the ‘V’s at the bottom of the Wings. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.
Clip the corners to reduce the bulk.
2.9Turn the Wing right sides out and press the seams.
TIP – Push out the corner with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there is a nice sharp corner.
2.10On the right side of the Wing, pin along the curved seam between the Wing Spine and the Wing.
2.11Right sides facing up, ‘stitch in the ditch’ along the seam between the Wing Spine and Wing. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment.
Stitch slowly and hold the Wing Spine and Wing flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Blanket.
TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Wing instead of the Wing Spine. This usually ends up fairly invisible.
2.12Stuff the Wing Spine solid, but not too tightly, through the opening on the straight edge.
TIP – Use a pointy, blunt object such as a chopstick or knitting needle to help push the stuffing inside.
2.13Repeat steps 2.6 to 2.12 with the other Wing.
3 . Dragon Tail3.1Place two Dragon Tails, right sides together. Pin along the curved edges.
3.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – Do not sew the short, straight edge as the Dragon Tail will be turned right sides out through this opening.
3.3Clip into the ‘V’ at the center of the Dragon Tail. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting into it.
Clip the corners to reduce the bulk.
3.4Turn the Dragon Tail right sides out and press the seams.
TIP – Push out the corner with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there is a nice sharp corner.
3.5Topstitch the outer edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
3.6Place the Dragon Tail onto a Main Body piece, right sides facing, matching the straight raw edges. Center the Dragon Tail and pin.
NOTE – The width of the Main Body piece is ½ inch wider on either side of the Dragon Tail. You need that seam allowance on the body when you are stitching the body pieces together in step 6.
3.7Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Flip the Dragon Tail over and press.
4 . Waistband4.1Place one Waistband onto a Main Body piece, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
4.2Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
Flip the Waistband up.
4.3Fold the top of the Waistband to the wrong side ½ inch and press. This will create a memory hem.
NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the garment. It’s much easier to do this now, then to try and press the hem later when the Body is stitched into a circle. Some fabrics hold a memory hem better than others. If your fabric doesn’t hold it well, that’s ok. It is still helpful to do this now.
Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 for the second Waistband and Main Body piece.
5 . Attaching Face and Wings5.1Fold the seam allowance on the bottom of the Spikes and Ears into the inside by ¼ inch.
Pin the Ears and Spikes at the pattern markings.
5.2Top stitch each Ear and Spike onto the Front Main Body, right sides facing up. Use two rows of stitching to secure these in place, at ⅛ and ¼ seam allowances.
5.3Place the Eyes and Nostrils at the pattern markings on the Front Main Body.
DOUBLE-SIDED INTERFACING OPTION: Following the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the Eyes and Nostrils in place.
Alternatively, use fabric glue.
5.4Top stitch around the Outer and Inner Eyes, using ⅛ seam allowance.
5.5Place the top of the Wings at the pattern markings on either side of the Front Main Body, right sides together, matching raw edges. Pin.
NOTE – The image does not show the Eyes and Nostril in place, but it is easier to add them before pinning the Wings in place.
5.6Baste using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
6 . Body6.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Follow steps 6.1 to 6.3. Then serge together using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for Body Lining. Skip to step 6.6. NOTE – Take extra care with the seam allowance to ensure the Main and Lining pieces match up.
6.1Flip the Ears down and pin the Wings in place.
6.2Fold the Dragon Tail up towards the top, then fold the edges in toward the center. Pin.
6.3Place the two Main Body pieces right sides together. Pin around the outside edge of the body.
NOTE – Do not pin along the waist edge of the Blanket.
6.4Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance using pinking shears.
Turn the Blanket right sides out and remove pins from Wings and Dragon Tail.
6.5Repeat steps 6.3 to 6.4 with the Body Lining pieces.
6.6Place the Body Lining inside the Main Body, wrong sides together, matching the raw edge of the Lining to the Waistband seam allowance.
Pin from the outside at the seam.
6.7Fold the Waistband down to the Lining, placing the folded edge just over the stitching from step 6.7. Carefully pin from the right side of the Blanket.
TIP – If you are adding optional elastic to the waist, mark a 1 ½ to 3-inch gap with pins. This is where the elastic will be inserted.
6.8With the right sides facing up, ‘stitch in the ditch’ along the seam between the Blanket and the Waistband. If you are adding the OPTIONAL elastic, leave a 1 ½ to 3-inch gap. If you are not adding the elastic, stitch all the way around the Waistband.
Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and Blanket flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Blanket.
If you are adding OPTIONAL elastic, follow below. If you are not adding OPTIONAL elastic your Magic Blanket Tail is finished!
6.9Thread the elastic through the opening from step 6.9.
TIP – Before threading, match up the ends and mark them with a pen/pencil/marker. Check the elastic is not twisted before marking. When you have threaded the elastic through the casing, check the markings match up, to ensure there are no twists, before the next step.
6.10Overlap the ends of the elastic by ½ inch. Pin.
FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, check the elastic is the correct size before stitching together.
6.11Use a zig zag stitch to sew the ends together.
6.12Slip the elastic inside the casing.
Topstitch the gap closed, using ⅛ seam allowance.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Dragon Blanket Tail is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpmagicblankettaildragon.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2022
All Rights Reserved
DesignIf you wish, you can download and print a diagram of your project which you can use for planning purposes.
Color in, or glue scraps of fabric, on the diagram to try different fabrics and looks.
As with the pattern files, please download the appropriate file to download based on your printer. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer likely supports US Letter size paper. All other regions generally use A4 paper.
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewDragon Blanket Tail
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Climb inside this fun and magical blanket tail. Great fun for children and adults alike – there is even a doll size too. With wings, ears, and spikes, you can really set your imagination free! The blanket tail has an optional elastic at the opening to fit comfortably over your hips with your feet fitting into the ends of the tail.
SizingSize Range
18 in Dolls
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist
Elasticated waist
Hips
Center front length
Doll
13.6
10.0
13.6
14.5
Materials and ToolsYou will need a light to medium weight woven or non-stretch fabric for the body e.g. quilting cotton, cotton, felt, lightweight fleece or lame. You can use the same for the body lining, although we wouldn’t recommend using lame.
We will not be finishing the edges of the Nostrils and Eyes. They will be top stitched on and/or glued using double sided interfacing. If you choose a fabric which frays for these, we recommend following the double-sided interfacing option for these to reduce fraying. If you choose a fabric which does not fray, you can use any option you like for attaching them.
The Ears and Spikes are finished so you can use any woven fabric you like for them.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main body
Body lining
Spikes
Wing
Wing spine
Ears
Tail
Eyes nostril
Dolls
0.50
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
Scraps
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Main body
Body lining
Spikes
Wing
Wing spine
Ears
Tail
Eyes nostril
Dolls
0.50
0.50
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
Scraps
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- OPTIONAL lightweight Interfacing for Spikes – approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
- OPTIONAL ½ inch wide Elastic – approximately 0.5 yard
- OPTIONAL Double-sided interfacing (also called ‘heat n bond’, ‘bondaweb’, fusible web or iron-on adhesive). This is used to attach the face pieces. It gives a great finish. However, if you don’t have this, you can just top stitch these pieces on.
- OPTIONAL Fabric glue – If you are not using double-sided interfacing, you use this as an alternative.
- Stuffing – You will need a handful of stuffing for inside the Ears, Spikes and Wing Spines. You could use poly-fil, batting or any small fabric scraps.
- OPTIONAL – For the Ears, medium or heavy weight iron on interfacing can be used to help them stand upright. Only a small amount is required (¼ yard will be more than sufficient for all sizes)
- OPTIONAL – If you want the stitching that holds the face pieces on to be nearly invisible, you can use clear nylon thread (also called invisible thread).
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, pins or clips, and scissors. Optional serger/overlocker.