Dolls’ Posy Pleated Pants

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron interfacing onto 1 Front Waistband piece.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk:  front pleat notches and pocket placements.

Staystitching

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the waist is likely to stretch and then the Waistband won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on. Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric twisting about while we are sewing the rest of the Pants, before we attach it to the Waistband.

Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Staystitch the front trouser, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

Staystitch the back trouser, at the waist, in the direction of the arrows.

There are many ways of transferring dart markings from a pattern piece to your fabric. If you have a method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it:

If you haven’t done this before, lay the fabric wrong side up on your ironing board.

NOTE – The images shown are not from this pattern, but the steps are the same. These are just for illustrative purposes.

Place the pattern piece on top, lining it up accurately. Place a pin directly through each of the three corner points of the dart, making sure it goes firmly into the ironing board. Lift the pattern piece slightly, being careful to keep your pins in place.

Holding the pattern up out of the way, place a pin under the pattern piece into the fabric where each of the three pins are. As you place the new pin in, remove the old pin. You should now be able to lift the pattern piece out of the way and still have three pins marking each of the corner points of the dart.

Draw the dart in between the corner points using tailors chalk or a special fabric pen for fabric marking that washes or fades out. Keep the three pins in the fabric at the corner points.

Repeat for the second dart.

Leave the fabric where it is, turn the paper pattern piece over and repeat with the mirror image front pant, using the pin holes as your three corner points.

With right sides together, fold the fabric down the center line of one dart. Pin in place.

Stitch along the dart line markings from the raw edge of the fabric, to the point of the dart in the direction of the arrow.

Press the dart toward the side seams.

TIP – To get a very neat dart that sits without any lumps, do not backstitch at the tip of the dart. Instead leave your threads long and tie them in a knot by hand when you have finished stitching. Check the knot is very secure then trim the threads.

Repeat step 1.3 for the second dart on the pant leg.

Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.3 for the mirror image pant leg.

Fold front pant leg right sides together, lining up the two outer transferred markings of the box pleat.  The middle marking will be in the center.

Stick a pin straight down from the top edge of the fabric, through the markings. 

Finger press the pleat flat along this fold, to give a nice crease in the center of the pleat.

NOTE – If you would prefer the pleats to sit flatter, sew approximately 2 inches down where your notches meet.

NOTE – The images shown are not from this pattern, but the steps are the same. These are just for illustrative purposes.

With wrong side facing up, open your pant leg and flatten the pleat, aligning the crease you made in the last step with your pin.

Add additional pins on either side of the original pin, to secure the pleat in place.

Baste your box pleat with ¼ inch seam allowance.  

NOTE – A basting stitch is a long straight stitch used to hold something in place temporarily.  This will be replaced in the next step when we attach the back yoke.  

TIP – If your machine does not have a basting stitch option, set it to the longest straight stitch you can.  There is no need to backstitch at the start or end of this stitch line, as it is temporary.

With right sides facing up, press your box pleat flat.  

TIP – You can also press about an inch down your pleat, for a nice crisp pleat.

Repeat for the other front pant leg.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –

• If you are doing the pockets, place a mirrored pair on the front side seams and the other pair on the back seams, with right sides together and lining up where the marking on the pattern piece indicates. Use a ½ inch seam allowance to serge a pocket piece to each front and back side seam. Check that you have the mirrored pattern pieces matching when you put the fronts and backs together. Place the front and back Pants pieces together, serging down each side seam and pivoting around the pockets using a ½ inch seam allowance.
• If you are not doing the pockets, place the front and back right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to attach the pockets and sew the side seams. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.  

If you are not doing the pockets, skip to step 3.7.

If you are doing the pockets, we are going to join the pockets to the pant legs using a French seam. 

Place one pocket piece wrong sides together along the front pant side seam, aligning the top of the pocket with the pocket marking on the pattern piece.

Stitch the pocket to the pant leg using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half, then turn, matching right sides together. Press.

Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Snip the folded seam allowance at the top and bottom of the pocket so the fabric lays flat (along the yellow line in the photo).

Open the pocket out and press the seam allowance towards the pocket.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.5 with the other pocket piece to the front leg and the 2 mirror pocket pieces to both back legs. 

When you attach your pockets to the back Pants piece, check the alignment of the pocket against the front by holding the front and back Pants pieces together. The back pocket needs to match up on the side seam with where you placed the front pocket.

Now, place the front and back of the Pants together, wrong sides facing, aligning the side seams and pockets. 

POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and around the pocket edge with a ¼ inch seam allowance. 

When you reach the join between the pocket and the Pants, place your needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. Then, place your presser foot back down and continue. This will give a neat, sharp corner.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Place front and back Pants pieces wrong sides together and stitch each side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance. Clip into the corners where the pocket meets the Pants. Again, clip close to the seam but not all the way in (approximately ⅛ inch away).

TIP – For maximum control, use the very point of your scissors when you clip into the corners where the pocket meets the Pants. It is harder to control the blade further down and easy to accidentally cut past the seam allowance. If you use the tip, you can do several small snips and get them exactly where you want them.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance.

Turn inside out, matching right sides together, and press.

POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and pocket again with ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Turn right side out. Press pockets towards the front.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seams again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out.

POCKETS OPTION – Open the pant leg and press the pockets towards the front.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.10 for the other front and back pant leg.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Open the pant leg and press the side seam to the back.

Repeat steps 3.7 to 3.10 for the other front and back pant leg.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edges of the front and Back Rise on all pieces. With right sides facing sew front Pants together at the Front Rise with a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the Back Rise, then skip to step 5.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The Front and Back Rise will be sewn using a French seam.

With wrong sides of the fabric together, place the front Pants pieces together and pin along the center front seam. Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance in half and carefully clip into the curve. 

TIP – The clip will help the seam lay flat when finished but take care not to go too close to the seam when clipping.

Turn right sides together and press.

Stitch again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.4 for the Back Rise.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edges of the sides of the pant legs. With right sides facing sew together at the side seams with a ½ inch seam allowance. Then, skip to step 6.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – The Inseam will be sewn using a French seam.

With wrong sides of the fabric together, place the front and back leg pieces together and pin along the center front seam. Stitch with ¼ inch seam allowance. 

Trim the seam allowance in half.

Turn inside out and press.

NOTE – It can be quite difficult to press the Pants crotch seam, especially on the smaller sizes. Just press as much as you can. The very inside off the crotch can’t be seen on the finished garment so it doesn’t matter if you can’t get all the way in there. Often just pinching it with your fingertips is sufficient.

Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance. Turn right way out and press.

If you would like to add a Sash, follow the steps below. You will also need to follow step 8 to sew and attach the Sash Loops to thread your Sash through. Otherwise, skip to step 7.

Fold the Sash in half, right sides together, matching the raw edges and pin together.

Stitch along the open long edge and angled short edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave the straight short edge open.

TIP – When you reach the corner, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. Then place your presser foot back down and continue. This will give a neat, sharp corner.

Trim the seam allowance and corners to remove bulk.

Turn right sides out.

There are several ways to turn the Sash tube right side out. If you have a preferred method you are more familiar with, please use this. Alternatively, here is how I like to do it with a loop turner.

Insert the loop turner inside the Sash tube until it reaches the other end. Perforate the fabric with the little clasp and push it to close the hook. Pull the loop turner back inside very delicately. While pulling the loop turner inside, smooth the fabric upwards towards the top of the hook and roll the fabric on itself inside the tube so it is wrong sides together. Continue to roll until you’ve turned the tube right side out completely.

Roll the seam under between your fingers so that it lays flat. Press.

OPTIONAL – Topstitch both long sides and enclosed short side. This will give a crisp edge to the Sash. If you would like a more billowing look (like the last photo in the step above), do not press or topstitch.

Repeat steps 61. to 6.4 for the other Sash.

Lay the two Front Waistband pieces, right sides together, and pin along the shorter of the long edges. The wider edge will be attached to the waist of the Pants.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Open the Waistband flat and press the seam allowance open.

If you are not doing the Sash, skip to step 7.4.

With the Waistband open, right side facing up, align the top of the Sash to the middle seam of the non-interfaced Waistband. This should leave a ½ inch gap at the bottom for your seam allowance. 

NOTE – The top of the Sash is the long straight folded edge.

Baste in place ¼ inch from the edge.

Repeat step 7.2 to baste the other Sash to the opposite side of the front Waistband. 

NOTE – From here on, the steps are the same for the Waistband regardless of whether you have done the Sash or not. If you have, make sure to keep the Sash out of the way when stitching.

Lay the two back Waistband pieces, right sides together, and pin along one long edge. 

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Open the Waistband flat and press the seam allowance open.

With right sides together, stitch the front and back Waistband side seams together using a ½ inch seam allowance. If you have added the Sash, keep it out of the way while stitching.

Your Waistband should now be in a circle.

Press the seam allowances open.

Fold one long edge of the Waistband under by ½ inch. If you have done the Sash, this will be the edge furthest away from the Sash. If you haven’t done the Sash, it’s the raw edge of the interfaced front waist and corresponding back waist.

If you have used directional fabric, make sure this is the top edge. 

Press.

Lay the raw unfolded edge of the Waistband right sides together with the Pants, matching the side seams.  Pin around the raw edges.

NOTE – Check the front box pleats are laying nicely when you sew over them.

Sew using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance up.

Turn the Pants inside out. Fold the Waistband over. Make sure that the raw edges are folded upwards towards the Waistband so that they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband down. The raw edges should all then be hidden. Pin all along the back Waistband only.

TIP – Pin from the right side of the Pants directly along the seam between the Pants and the Waistband. Keep flipping it over though to check.

From the right side of the Pants, start at the LEFT side seam and stitch along the back waist seam only, where the Pants meet the Waistband. This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’, where you sew exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment, and you will just catch the other side of the Waistband in your stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden.

Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and fabric flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it’s not visible on the finished Pants. Occasionally, lift the Pants up to check that you are catching the other side of the Waistband.

TIP – Use a thread in your needle that matches the Pants and aim for a tiny fraction onto the Pants instead of the Waistband and it usually ends up fairly invisible. 

ALTERNATIVE – If you would prefer, you can topstitch on the actual Waistband (approximately ⅛ inch from the crease). Your stitching will be more visible but it’s much easier! 

Thread the elastic through the back Waistband. 

TIP – To thread the elastic, I like to pin one end of the elastic to the Pants, so it doesn’t slip inside. I then put a safety pin on the other end and thread it through using that to guide it.

You will be stitching the elastic to the side seams. 

With right sides facing up, sew along the Waistband side seam – stitch in the ditch again. This will secure your elastic. Sew the elastic at the opposite side seam.

Turn the Pants inside out. Pin the folded seam allowance of the front Waistband. Stitch in the ditch across the front sewing from one side seam to the other.

OPTIONAL – To help the elastic sit better in the Waistband, also topstitch along the top edge of the Waistband all the way around the front and back Waistband, stretching the elastic out as you topstitch the back of the Waistband. This will give a little paper bag type effect at the top of the Waistband where the fabric will puff out a bit when wearing it.

If you have added a Sash you will need to add Loops to thread your Sash through. Follow the steps below. Otherwise, skip to step 9.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold your Sash Loop piece in half, wrong sides together, and press

Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step. Press.

Fold in half, along your original fold line and press.

Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.

Press each short end ¼ inch to the wrong side.  

With folded edges facing down, align the Sash Loop onto the Front Waistband above the center of the pleat created in step 2. Pin.

Sew along each short edge, catching the folded edges.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.5 for the second Sash Loop.

Thread your Sash through the Sash Loops.

FIT CHECK – Try the Pants on and check for hem length. The hem will be ½ inch. Make any adjustments you prefer and then continue.

NOTE – This step is the same regardless of which length option you are doing.

SERGER OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edge of the hem, then follow steps 9.1 to 9.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Turn the hem under ¼ inch and press.

Turn under ¼ inch again and press.

Stitch as close to the edge of the fold.

Repeat with the other leg.