Dress to Jumpsuit Conversion

Dress to Jumpsuit Conversion

Difficulty Level = Advanced Beginner

This Jumpsuit has a scoop neck fitted bodice with darts for shaping. The back is finished with an invisible zipper. Choose from three options: finished with a full length zipper, or a single keyhole and zipper or a double keyhole and smaller zipper. The trousers have back darts and are fitted through to the hip, flowing loosely down. The gathered sleeve head has three length options; sleeveless, short or long. Choose from four leg length options: shorts, culottes, three-quarter or long. Both sleeve lengths and all leg lengths, except shorts, can be finished with a ribbon casing or elasticated at the hem. Add optional pockets and the optional accessory as a neck or belt tie to really make your Jumpsuit stand out.

Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.

Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

 

The Jumpsuit has a fitted bodice with the waist seam hitting the natural waist. It is fitted at the top hip, with ease over the hip. The sleeves and legs are loose fitting.

• Sizing – Sizing is different in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – Choose your size from the chest measurements. If you fall between sizes, use the size with the correct chest measurement. Then, grade out or in, to the correct waist and hip size.
• Height – This jumpsuit is designed to fit a height of 5 foot 6. We recommend adjusting for height as follows: 
  • The armscye and waist of the Bodice
  • Across the front and back rise of the Leg. Measure your front and back rise and compare it to the finished measurements above.  
  • Measure from your crotch to the crease at the back of your knee. Take this measurement and draw a line through at the knee on the Front and Back pattern pieces. Add/remove here. 
  • Measure from knee to ankle and adjust the pattern pieces here too.
• Bust adjustment – The pattern has been drafted for a sewing C cup bust. (approximately a ready-to-wear B cup).
  • If your bust size is below a C cup, you don’t necessarily have to do a small bust adjustment. However, do check at the shoulder assembly stage that the chest area fits well. 
  • If your bust size is above a D cup, you may need to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). Follow this tutorial.
• Pants adjustments – Follow this tutorial for any further pants fitting advice.
• Bicep adjustments – Check your measurement against the finished measurement chart. As the sleeve is not tight fitting, it is unlikely you will need to make any adjustments. 
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, sew a muslin. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. To make a muslin for this dress:
  • Check the fabric recommendations and use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. You do not need to cut out and sew the full garment. 
  • Cut out the following and label each piece with tailor’s chalk / fabric pen: Front and Back Bodice and Front and Back Legs.
  • Baste these together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If happy with the fit, continue to the final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again.
  • Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy and then baste.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ½ inch and pull out your basting stitches.
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces. It is like having a tailor-made garment, so they are a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.

Converting a Dress

The guest designer for this pattern is Kate McGuire from Converted Closet. Not only has she designed a beautiful jumpsuit that you van make from scratch with any knit or woven fabric, but she has also come up with a heap of tips on how to convert an existing garment into a jumpsuit, and then how to style your finished garment.

You can follow Kate McGuire on Instagram or join her Facebook group for more conversion ideas.

Do you have a dress you love but that doesn’t fit well? Or perhaps the bodice or skirt only fit well. You can convert your dress into this Jumpsuit by deconstructing the dress from the waist down. Watch the video to find out more.

If you would like to keep the bodice to use to create this Jumpsuit, you could use the skirt fabric to cut the pants from this Jumpsuit pattern or use a different fabric. Attach your existing bodice to the pants in step 8. 

If your bodice doesn’t fit to the pants waist, here are three ways to fix it:

• Take a deeper seam allowance at the side seams
• Add darts (see step 1)
• Gather the bodice to fit

If you are not using the bodice from your dress but are creating the pants from the skirt and your pants do not fit into the bodice waist, here are three ways to fix it:

• Take a deeper seam allowance at the side seams
• Add darts (see step 1)
• Gather the pants to fit

Where to Start

Identify the garments fabric e.g. knit or woven. Does it have two layers, and can you use both layers? Can you salvage everything from the garment such as zippers etc. Take a look inside your dress and see how it is finished so you can see how you can take it apart.

You will need:

• Garment you are taking apart
• Seam ripper
• Small pair of snips/scissors
• And a bit of patience…

Removing the Lining

Look inside the dress to see how it is constructed and how the seams are finished. Check how the lining and main fabrics are joined together. You’ll want to separate the two fabrics. Try to salvage your zipper if you can. Watch how to do this.
Then follow each video below.

• Removing Lining from Zipper & Neck Part 1
• Removing Lining from Zipper & Neck Part 2
• Removing Sleeves
• Separating the Lining
• Tackling the Facing
• Finish the Lining
• Outer Seams
• Finishing

Main fabric – You can use nearly any light or medium weight woven fabric for this jumpsuit. However, your fabric choice will be critical in how the jumpsuit fits and moves so please choose with the end look you are wanting in mind:

• A light weight woven such as a chiffon, organza, or georgette will be billowy and floaty looking, and may be see-through or require a camisole underneath for coverage. 
• A light to mid weight woven such as a cotton lawn, cotton voile, linen, silk, rayon challis, silk crepe, bubble crepe, crepe de chine, double gauze or silk satin will drape nicely.

You can use a knit fabric. We would advise to still use a zip in order to avoid overstretching the fabric at the waist. A smaller percentage stretch will hold its shape better than a knit with too much stretch. 

NOTE – Follow the serger steps if you are using knit fabric. You can serge or use a stretch stitch on a regular machine.

NOTE – If you use a knit with 4-way stretch it can pull the jumpsuit down, as there is no supporting elastic at the waistline.

Lining fabric – If you are using a sheer fabric such as chiffon, you will need to line the bodice and the legs. This is not needed if you are using a knit fabric. It needs to be a light to medium weight woven fabric. Suitable fabrics include Habotai (silk or polyester), poly anti-static lining, cotton, quilting cotton, and satin. Use the same yardage listed below for the lining.

Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide  (in YARDS)

 

NOTE – If you are using one fabric for the bodice and legs you will need slightly less fabric.

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• Light weight interfacing – approximately half a yard will be sufficient for all sizes
• Invisible zipper:
  • Full length zip OPTION:
    • XXS – XL: 1x 24 inches
    • 2XL – 5XL: 1 x 26 inches
  • Single keyhole with zip OPTION:
    • XXS – XL: 1x 16 inches
    • XXL – 5XL: 1 x 18 inches
  • Double keyhole with zip OPTION – 1x 8 inches
• Ribbon tie hem OPTION:  ⅜ inch wide Ribbon for ties at sleeve cuff and hem – approximately 4 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• Elastic casing OPTION: ⅜ inch Elastic for sleeve cuff and hem – approximately 2 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• Sleeveless OPTION: ½ inch wide bias binding (woven or knit depending on your fabric option)  – approximately 3 yards will be sufficient for all sizes
• Keyhole OPTIONS: For a single keyhole you will need 1x Button and button loop. For a double keyhole you will need 2x.
  • Button Loop – OPTIONAL: You can use bias tape to create the button loop. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line. You only need 2 inches (per button loop) for all sizes. Or you can use a piece of ribbon that is a ¼ inch wide by 2 inches long instead. Alternatively use the pattern piece or cut chart to create the button loop piece(s).
  • Button (maximum 1cm / ⅜ inch wide)
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler, optional Wonder Tape, zipper foot or invisible zipper foot. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces are below:

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front Bodice – Fabric cut 1 on fold, OPTIONAL Lining cut 1 on fold
• Back Bodice – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Front Facing – Fabric cut 1 on fold, Interfacing cut 1 on fold 
• Back Facing – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), Interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
  • NOTE – If you are using the full length zipper, use that cutting line on the Back Facing.
• Keyhole OPTIONS: Button Loop:
  • Single – Fabric cut 1
  • Double – Fabric cut 2
• Sleeve – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• OPTIONAL Ribbon Casing: Short/Long Sleeves – Fabric cut 2
• Front Leg – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• Back Leg –Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair), OPTIONAL Lining cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• OPTIONAL Ribbon Casing: Legs – Fabric cut 2
• OPTIONAL Pockets – Lining cut 4 (2x mirror image pair)
• OPTIONAL Necktie / Belt Tie:
  • Tie – Fabric cut 2 on fold
  • Necktie center – Fabric cut 1 on fold
  • OR Belt Center – Fabric cut 1 on fold

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent from damaging the fibre. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternately, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.

From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ⅛ inch – Hem 1 ½ inch

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
2. INTERFACING – Apply interfacing to the Front and Back Facing pieces. 
3. LINED OPTION – Baste Main and Lining pieces together. Treat these as one piece.
4. OPTIONAL BIAS BINDING – Make double fold bias binding.
5. STAYSTICHING – Staystitch the neckline of the Front and Back Bodices, and the waist edge of the Front and Back Legs.

Sewing –

1. DARTS – Stitch the bust darts on the Front Bodice and the back darts on the Back Legs.
2. OPTIONAL RIBBON CASING – Fold short edge of Ribbon Casing to wrong side ¼ inch. Press. Repeat. Topstitch. Fold top edge ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat for each Ribbon Casing.
3. BODICE – Use a French seam to stitch the Front and Back Bodice together at the shoulders. SLEEVELESS OPTION: Attach bias tape to armholes. Trim off the binding excess. Stitch side seams together using a French seam.
4. SLEEVE – Sew gathering stitches across Sleeves. OPTIONAL RIBBON CASING: Lay the Sleeve right sides facing up. Place the Ribbon Casing 2.5 inches up from the raw Sleeve edge, right sides facing, centering it along the Sleeve. Stitch ½ inch up from the bottom edge of the Ribbon Casing. Flip the Ribbon Casing down. Press. Repeat for the second Ribbon Casing and Sleeve. Sew underarm Sleeve together using a French seam. Insert Sleeve into Bodice and gather Sleeve to fit bodice. Sew together using a French seam. Repeat for other Sleeve.
5. LEGS – OPTIONAL Pockets: Use a French seam to stitch Pockets to Front and Back Legs. Stitch side seams using a French seam. OPTIONAL RIBBON CASING: Lay the Leg right sides facing up. Place the Ribbon Casing 2.5 inches up from the raw Leg edge, right sides facing, centering it along the Leg. Stitch ½ inch up from the bottom edge of the Ribbon Casing. Flip the Ribbon Casing down. Press. Repeat for the second Ribbon Casing and Leg. Stitch inseam using a French seam. Repeat for other Leg. Stitch Legs together at rise using a French seam, from the front to the notch in the back. Clip into seam allowance.
6. FACING – Stitch Front and Back Facing pieces together. Finish raw edges. Stitch Facing onto Bodice, right sides together, along the neckline only. Snip along neckline. Open the Facing and press seam towards Facing. Understitch.
7. KEYHOLE OPTION: BUTTON CLOSURE – Fold Button Loop in half lengthwise, stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance, trim seam allowance. Turn right side out and press. Fold the Loop in half, pin to the right side of the Bodice with the Loop facing the side seam. Check button size. Stitch Loop. Trim. Repeat for double keyhole option.
8. ATTACHING THE BODICE – Stitch Bodice to Legs using a French seam. Press center back seam to wrong side by ½ inch on both sides.
9. INVISIBLE ZIPPER – Insert invisible zipper. Stitch Back Facing to Back Bodice, right sides together, at center back seam. Trim corner. Repeat. Turn right sides out and press. Tack bottom short edge of the Facing to waist seam and at the shoulder seam. KEYHOLE OPTIONS: Hand stitch the button (s) across from the Loop(s).
10. HEMMING – HEMMED OPTION: Press hem ½ inch to wrong side and press. Fold 1 inch and press. Topstitch. Repeat for other Sleeve/Legs. ELASTIC OPTION: Fold the raw edge ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. Repeat to press 1 inch. Topstitch near the folded edge, leaving a 1-2 inch gap. Stitch second row ½ inch from bottom folded edge. Insert elastic. Overlap ends and stitch. Stitch gap closed. Repeat for the other Sleeve and/or Legs. RIBBON CASING OPTION: Fold raw edge ½ inch to wrong side. Press. Repeat to press 1 inch. Pin. Turn right side out. Pin bottom memory hem of casing, pinning the hem as well. Topstitch around the entire Sleeve/Leg, securing the casing and hem in place. Insert ribbon into casing. Tie. Repeat for the other Sleeve and/or Legs.
11. OPTIONAL TIE – Fold a Tie in half, right sides together. Pin along short angled ends, and long end.  Stitch, leaving a 2-3 inch gap along the long edge. Clip corners and trim seam allowance. Turn and press. Repeat for second Tie. Stitch Center piece in half lengthwise, right sides together. Trim. Turn right side out and press. Turn the Tie wrong side out. Insert the Center Tie into the short end of the Tie, right sides facing. Pin at the ½ inch seam allowance. Stitch. Pull the Center through the gap, turning it right side out. Press. Repeat to stitch the other short side of the Center Tie to the second Tie. Close gap on each side using a slipstitch.

 

Congratulations, your Dress to Jumpsuit Conversion is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

Join the Rebecca Page Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpdresstojumpsuit.

Follow Kate McGuire from Converted Closet on Instagram, or join her Facebook Group for more conversion inspiration.

Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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