Fairy Playhouse

Each of the following stitches will be used in this pattern. The steps will show how to do them step-by-step, but you might prefer to get familiar with them before getting started.

NOTE – This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you typically use patterns using other country’s crochet patterns, please check stitch instructions to make sure you are using the same stitch that is called for in the pattern.

Wrap the yarn around the hook from back to front.

With a slip knot on your hook, yarn over.

Pull your hook down and through the loop on your hook, leaving one loop.

Insert your hook into the top loop. Yarn over.

Pull through the loop of yarn. 

Pull the loop of yarn through the first loop on your hook as well.

Insert your hook into the top loop, yarn over.

Pull the loop of yarn through, yarn over again.

Pull through both loops on your hook.

Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch.

Insert the hook straight into the front loop of the second stitch.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over.

Pull through the loop of yarn. 

Insert your hook into the second stitch, yarn over.

Pull through a loop of yarn. Yarn over.

Pull through all three loops on the hook.

Insert your hook into the back loop of the stitch only.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over, pull through both loops on your hook.

Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over again, pull through the first two loops on your hook.

Yarn over a final time and pull through the remaining two loops.

Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over again and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Chain three.

Work a slip stitch into the top loop of the first chain of the three you made.

With the end of your yarn laying across the palm of your hand, wrap the yarn around your fingers, crossing the working yarn over the tail end. 

Hold the yarn in place with the thumb of the same hand. The loose end of the working yarn will now be on the left. Turn your hand over and insert your hook under the yarn on the right side.

Hook the working yarn (on the left) and pull it through, under the yarn on the right.

Twist the hook as you bring the loop through.

Carefully take the loop off your fingers and work a chain to secure the loop. You can then continue to work as many chains as the pattern calls for.

Leaving a tail (around 4-5 inches long) of yarn at the front of your hand, wrap the yarn loosely, around your first finger. Wrap the yarn from the front, crossing the yarn at the top of your finger. 

Insert your hook under the yarn on the right side. Hook the yarn on the left, pull it under the yarn on the right, twisting the hook as you pull it through.

Carefully take the knot off your finger. Pull the free end, to tighten the knot.

Pull the working yarn, to tighten the loop on your hook. Now you are ready to work.

Finish off by cutting the yarn and pulling the end through the loop on the hook. Pull this tight, to stop the stitches unravelling.

The pattern also includes hand sewing techniques. We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands. 

NOTE – The pictures below show the stitches being done on fabric. The methods are the same on yarn.

Thread the needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread.

On the inside of one of the fabric pieces, put the needle through a tiny bit of fabric. 

Pull the thread almost all the way to the knot. Stop pulling, split the thread close to the knot creating a gap then slip the needle through the gap. 

Pull the thread taut. The thread should now be knotted to the fabric.

NOTE – Tying the thread to the fabric this way will prevent the knot from coming through the fabric as you stitch.

Put the needle through to the right side or underside of the fabric depending on which side of the fabric the needle needs to be on for the next step.

A running stitch is a straight line of stitches created by pushing the needle and thread through the fabric without back stitching. These stitches can be far apart or closer together. This stitch will be seen on both sides of your fabric.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

From the inside of the fabric, push the needle to the underside of the fabric, pulling the thread all the way through the fabric.

Moving the needle about ⅛ inch to ¼ inch forward, insert the needle from the underside of the fabric and pull the thread to the right side.

Move the needle forward about ⅛ to ¼ inch and then put the needle back into the fabric at about the same distance, ⅛ to ¼ inch from where you brought the needle up. 

TIP – Instead of stitching each Running Stitch individually, the stitches can be taken more than one at a time by weaving the needle in and out of the fabric. This makes Running Stitches quick to sew.

Repeat the stitches across until the desired length is reached. 

Backstitches are used for outlining or adding fine detail. 

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Pull the needle to the right side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start your stitches. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up about ⅛ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through, creating a gap from the first stitch.

Push the needle back into the same hole as step 3.2, pulling the thread all the way through. This will close the gap and complete the first backstitch.

Repeat steps 3.2 to 3.4 creating a length of backstitches as desired.

Thread the needle with yarn and attach to the inside one of the crocheted pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions below.

Line up the crocheted edges, right sides out. 

Put the needle through one of the crocheted pieces so it comes out the loops of the first stitch on the right side of the piece. Then, bring the needle over both pieces and insert it into both loops of the next set of stitches on each of the crocheted edges. Pull the needle all the way through, pulling the yarn taut.

Move the needle back over both pieces of fabric and put the needle back into the loops on the next stitch. Be sure to go through both layers. Pull the needle all the way through and pull the yarn taut. 

Repeat all the way around.

These stitches are created without looping or crossing your thread. They can be used to create broken or unbroken lines or starbursts, fill shapes and create geometric designs.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Insert the needle from the wrong side of the fabric close to the raw edge, or at the point you want to start stitching. Pull the thread to the right side.

Push the needle down about ⅛ to ¼ inch away, pulling the thread all the way through. This will create a small stitch.

Push the needle back up to the right side about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from the last stitch, this will create a space between the first stitch. Pull the thread all the way through to the right side.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.3 creating the desired number of straight stitches in the desired pattern.

This stitch is used to create small decorative knots. Don’t let French Knots scare you, they aren’t as scary as you may think.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

Push the needle to the underside of the fabric and then bring it to the right side of the fabric at the point you want to add the French knot. Pull the thread all the way to the right side.

Working close to where the thread comes out of the fabric, wrap the thread around the needle three times.

NOTE – If you wrap the thread more than three times, the French knots can become loose or untidy.

Carefully tighten the thread on the needle and pull the threads together on the needle. Holding the threads taut on the needle, push the needle into the fabric close to where you brought the needle to the right side of the fabric. Slowly pull the needle through to the underside. This will create a French Knot on the right side of the fabric.

NOTE – Do not push the thread back through the same hole as the working thread. Push it through just next to the original hole, leaving a little space of fabric between.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.3 for each French knot.

TIP – Cluster these together to create a dense, textured filling, or scatter them loosely to create a lightness to your embroidery. Creating individual French knots can give your design a little punctuation.

3-DK Yarn Size – Hook Size D/3 / 3mm, C/1.5 / 2.5mm, B/0 / 2mm
– Test Square 2 inches = 10 stiches x 12 rows

NOTE – It is advisable to read through each step, before you start crocheting, to ensure that you understand the step fully. 

NOTE – This pattern uses US crochet terms. If you typically use patterns using other country’s crochet patterns, please check stitch instructions to make sure you are using the same stitch that is called for in the pattern.

Sample Square 

If you are a beginner, or are substituting with a different weight yarn, it may be helpful to work a sample square, to check your gauge is correct, for this pattern. You can try working with a larger or smaller hook size if your gauge needs adjusting.

The House Base is created like a basket. You start making an increasing, circular base. Then work upwards, to create the sides of the house. You will start working in joined rounds, then change to continuous rounds where the instructions indicate. 

The chain one and slip stitch that you work, when crocheting your joined rounds, are not included in the stitch count given for each round.

The House Base is made using the Aqua yarn and your D/3 (3mm) crochet hook.

BEGINNER’S TIP – If you struggle making a magic ring, you may want to use this alternative: Chain 2, work the 6 single crochets into the second chain from the hook. Skip to step 1.3.

Make a magic ring, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Work six single crochets into the magic ring, pull the ring closed, (with the free end of the yarn) and make a slip stitch (following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above), to join the round, in the first single crochet made (6 stitches).

Chain one, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above). Work two single crochets into each stitch around, then slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (12 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first stitch, two single crochets into the second stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total.

Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (18 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first two stitches, then two single crochets into the third stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first single of the round (24 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first three stitches and two single crochets into the fourth stitch. Repeat for a total of six times.

Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (30 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first four stitches and two single crochets into the fifth stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first Single crochet of the round (36 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first five stitches and two single crochets into the sixth stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (42 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first six stitches and two single crochets into the seventh stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (48 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first seven stitches and two single crochets into the eighth stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round (54 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first eight stitches and two single crochets into the ninth stitch. Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first Single crochet of the round (60 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first nine stitches and two single crochets into the tenth stitch. Repeat for a total of six times.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the round (66 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch around. 

Slip stitch to close (66 stitches).

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch around, through the back loops only. 

NOTE – Do not slip stitch to close the round.

Insert a stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) into the last stitch of the round, before continuing. You are now going to change from working in joined rounds to working in continuous rounds as you crochet up the sides of the house. 

Do not chain at the start of this round, work straight into the first stitch of the previous round (keep your tension on the tight side as you do this, to keep the join neat). 

Single crochet into each stitch around (66 stitches).

Move your stitch marker to the last stitch of the round. Continue to do this as you complete each round so that you keep track of the rounds that you have completed.

Work one single crochet into each stitch around for nineteen rounds (66 stitches in each round). 

Remove your stitch marker.

Finish off, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

This piece is worked from the top down, in continuous rounds, increasing as you go. The circular bottom is made separately, in joined rounds.

Roof: Using the Light Aqua yarn, and your 3mm (D/3) crochet hook, make a magic ring, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Work six single crochets into the magic ring, pull the ring closed. 

Put a stitch marker in the last single crochet made. Continue to use your stitch marker to keep track of your rounds. Moving it to the last stitch of each round as you work (6 stitches).

Work one single crochet through back loops only in each stitch around (6 stitches).

Work one single crochet in each stitch around, for three rounds (6 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first stitch, then two single crochets into the second stitch. 

Repeat for a total of three times (9 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (9 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first two stitches, two single crochets into the third stitch.

Then repeat this pattern three times in total (12 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first stitch, two single crochets into the second stitch.

Repeat this pattern six times in total (18 stitches).

Work one single crochet in each stitch around (18 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first two stitches, two single crochets into the third stitch. 

Repeat this pattern six times in total (24 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first three stitches, two single crochets into the fourth stitch

Repeat this pattern six times in total (30 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for three rounds (30 stitches per round).

Work one single crochet into the first four stitches, two single crochets into the fifth stitch, then repeat six times in total (36 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first five stitches, two single crochets into the sixth stitch, then repeat this pattern for six times in total (42 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for one round (42 stitches).

Work one  single crochet into the first six stitches, two single crochets into the seventh stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (48 stitches).

Work one single crochet in each stitch around, for one round (48 stitches).

Work one  single crochet into the first seven stitches, two single crochet into the eighth stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (54 stitches).

Work one  single crochet in each stitch around, for one round (54 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first eight stitches, two single crochet into the ninth stitch, repeat this pattern six times in total (60 stitches).

Work one single crochet in each stitch around, for one round (60 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first nine stitches, two single crochet into the tenth stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (66 stitches).

Work one single crochet in each stitch around, for two rounds (66 stitches per round). 

Remove your stitch marker.

Finish off.

Roof Bottom: Using a Light Aqua yarn and 3mm crochet hook, make a magic ring, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Repeat steps 1.2 to 1.12 resulting in a circle with 66 stitches, in the last round.

Then continue to increase this circle as below.

Work one single crochet into the first ten stitches, two single crochet into the eleventh stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (72 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first eleven stitches, two single crochet into the twelfth stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (78 stitches).

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for one round (78 stitches). 

Finish off.

You will repeat the instructions in this step six times to make the Leaves (3x Mid Green and 3x Light Green) for the Roof of the Fairy House.

The Leaves will be made using Green yard and your 3mm D/3 (3mm) crochet hook.

Chain sixteen, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above. (16 stitches)

NOTE – You can start with either the Light or Mid Green color. You will be repeating these steps to create a total of six. We have started with the Light Green.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work the following: 

• one single crochet, 
• one half double crochet into the next two chains, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above 
• two half double crochets into the next chain, 
• one double crochet, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above, into the next four chains, 
• two double crochets into the next four chains, 
• one double crochet into the next two chains. 

In the last chain, work five half double crochets (24 stitches). This moves you round to work into the underside of the chain.

Working along the underside of the chain, you will repeat the stitches made in 3.2, in reverse: 

• Work one double crochet into to first two chains, 
• two double crochets into the next four chains, 
• one double crochet into the next four chains, 
• two half double crochets into the next chain, 
• one half double crochet into the next two chains,
• one single crochet into the last chain (19 stitches).

Continuing straight on from the single crochet just worked, make a picot stitch, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Then slip stitch into the single crochet, at the beginning of the leaf. 

Finish off.

Weave the yarn ends into the back/wrong side of the Leaf. 

Then using lengths of green stranded cotton, you are going to embroider veins onto the leaf. 

For the central vein, use a piece of cotton, with all six strands together. Work long backstitches, following the directions in the Hand Stitching instructions above, through the chain in the center of the Leaf, from the top to the bottom. 

Finish off.

Split a length of green stranded cotton in half (3 strands) to work the branching veins. 

Bringing the thread up through the same spaces as the central stitches already sewn, work long, straight stitches, diagonally, up the length of the leaf, on one side. 

Bring the stitches down just inside the edge of the crocheted stitches. 

Finish off.

Repeat step 3.6 to add stitches onto the other side of the Leaf. 

Finish off.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.7 five more times, creating six Leaves (3x Mid Green and 3x Light Green) in total. 

The Door is made using the Light Grey yarn and your D/3 (3mm) crochet hook.

Chain ten, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (9 stitches). Turn your work.

Chain one. Work one single crochet through the back loop only, into each stitch of the row (9 stitches). Turn your work. 

Repeat step 4.3 for 7 more rows (9 stitches per row). 

Chain one, work one single crochet through the back loop only, into each stitch of the row (9 stitches). 

NOTE – Do not turn your work. 

Turning to your left, you are going to work along the top edge of the Door. Chain one. Work one single crochet into the end of each stitch across the row (10 stitches). Turn your work. 

Chain one. Then:

• Work one single crochet into the first stitch, 
• one half double crochet into the next two stitches, 
• one double crochet into the next four stitches, 
• one half double crochet into the next two stitches, 
• one single crochet into the last stitch (10 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Now you are going to work an edging around the Door, to create a smooth finish. 

Re-join your yarn at the bottom right hand corner. 

Work one slip stitch, into each stitch edge, up the side of the door. Into the last stitch on this edge, also work one single crochet (13 stitches).

Now moving along the top edge of the Door, work: 

• one single crochet into the next two stitches, 
• one half double crochet into the next five stitches, 
• one single crochet into the next three stitches. 
• Also work a slip stitch into the same space as the last single crochet made (1

NOTE – The last slip stitch does not count in the stitch count. 

Left side: Moving down the left side edge of the door, work one slip stitch into each stitch edge, down the side. 

Also work one single crochet into the last stitch of the row (12 stitches). 

Bottom edge: Finally, work one single crochet, into each stitch, across the bottom edge of the door. Slip stitch into the first edging stitch made (10 stitches). 

Finish off. 

OPTIONAL Bead – Using a length of Grey cotton, sew a small bead onto the Door. Position this near the right-side edge, approximately 1.5 inches down from the top of the Door. 

Alternatively, you could embroider a French knot instead.

You will be creating 4x Windows for the house. You will work in joined rounds. Keeping your tension quite tight when slip stitching (to join the round), will help create a neater join.

The Windows will be made using a Light Grey yard and your D/3 (3 mm) crochet hook.

Make a magic ring, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Work six single crochets into the magic ring, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above. 

Pull the ring closed. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet made (6 stitches). 

Chain one. 

Work two single crochets into each stitch around. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet made (12 stitches).

Chain one. 

Work one single crochets into the first stitch, two single crochets into the next stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (18 stitches). 

Chain one. 

Work one single crochet into the first two stitches, then two single crochets into the third stitch. 

Repeat for a total of six times. 

Slip stitch into the first single crochet of the round (24 stitches). 

Work one slip stitch into each stitch around. Slip stitch into the first slip stitch at the start of the round (25 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Weave the ends of the yarn into the back of the Window. 

Then with some Light Aqua yarn, make a long, straight stitch across the middle of the Window. Bring the yarn up just inside the slip stitch edge you worked and the yarn down the opposite side, again, just inside the slip stitch edge. 

Repeat this to create a cross that meets in the center of the Window, splitting the Window into four sections.

TIP – It’s a good idea to place one of the stitches, over the slip stitch seam, in your Window. This will disguise the joining seam.

Make a tiny stitch, right over both stitches, where they cross, to secure them in the middle. Tie off the yarn.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.8 two more times to make another three Windows.

The grass is made using Green and Light Green shades of stranded cotton, embroidery thread and your D/3 (3mm) crochet hook. This ties in with the Green leaves on the House Roof. 

Follow the steps below, or customize your Grass by making it longer, or add more bunches.

Bunch A: This bunch has five pieces of Grass. 

With Light Green stranded cotton, chain ten following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above, into each chain across (9 stitches).

Finish off, creating one blade of Grass. 

Using the Light Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain five.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (4 stitches). 

Finish off, creating a second blade of Grass. 

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain ten. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (9 stitches). 

Finish off, creating a third blade of Grass. 

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain seven. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (6 stitches). 

Finish off, creating a fourth blade of Grass.

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain seven. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (6 stitches). 

Finish off, creating a fifth blade of Grass.

Weave the thread ends into the backs of the pieces made. 

Lay the blades of Grass, one on top of the other, at slight angles (as shown) in the following order: 

• longest Green piece at the bottom, 
• then the longest Light Green piece, 
• then one of the two remaining Green pieces, 
• then the small Light Green piece, 
• then the remaining Green piece. 

Cut a piece of yarn (either shade of Green). Stitch through all these pieces two or three times, with small stitches, to secure them together. Leave a long tail to attach the Grass to the House during assembly.

Bunch B: This bunch has two blades of Grass. 

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain fourteen. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (13 stitches). 

Finish off, creating the first blade of Grass.

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain ten. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (9 stitches). 

Finish off, creating the second blade of Grass. 

Weave the thread ends into the backs of the two Grass blades made. 

Lay the blades of Grass, one on top of the other, at slight angles, with the longest piece at the bottom.

Stitch together, as you did for bunch A, using a Green piece of yarn. Leave a long tail to attach the grass to the house during assembly.

Bunch C: This bunch has three blades of Grass. 

Using a Light Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain fourteen. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (13 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Using a Light Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain seven. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (6 stitches). 

Finish off. 

With Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain seven. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (6 stitches). 

Finish off.

Weave the thread ends into the backs of the pieces made. 

Lay the blades of Grass, one on top of the other, at slight angles, in the following order: 

• the longest Light Green piece at the bottom, 
• then the Green piece,
• then the remaining Light Green piece

Stitch together, as you did for bunch A. Leave a long tail to attach the grass to the house during assembly.

Bunch D: This bunch has three blades of Grass. 

With Light Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain ten. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (9 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain seven. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (6 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Using a Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain five. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (4 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Weave the thread ends into the backs of the blades made. 

Lay the blades of Grass, one on top of the other, at slight angles, in the following order: 

• the shortest green piece at the bottom, 
• then the light green piece, 
• then finally the remaining green piece. 

Stitch together, as you did for bunch A. Leave a long tail to attach the grass to the house during assembly.

Bunch E: There are three blades of Grass in this bunch. Using a Light Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain fourteen. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (13 stitches). 

Finish off.

Using a Light Green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain ten. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (9 stitches). 

Finish off. 

With light green stranded cotton and your B/O (2mm) crochet hook, chain seven. 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across (6 stitches). 

Finish off. 

Weave the thread ends into the backs of the blades made. 

Lay the blades of Grass, one on top of the other, at slight angles, in the following order: 

• the longest piece at the bottom, 
• then the middle length, piece, 
• then the shortest piece. 

Stitch together, as you did for bunch A. Leave a long tail to attach the grass to the house during assembly.

The Fairy Body and Head are worked in continuous rounds. Do not chain at the start of each round, rather work straight into the first stitch of the previous round (keep your tension on the tight side as you do this, to keep the join neat). 

The Fairy Body is made using a Light Aqua yarn and your D/3 (3mm) crochet hook. The Head uses a Skin Tone yarn. 

Make a magic ring, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.  

TIP – You can customize your Fairy by working the Fairy body in more than one color, creating sections or stripes.

Work six single crochets into the magic ring, pull the ring closed. Put a stitch marker in the last single crochet made. 

Continue to move your stitch marker as you work each round (6 stitches).

Work two single crochet into each stitch around (12 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first stitch, two single crochets into the second stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (18 stitches). 

Work one single crochet through the back loop only in each stitch around (18 stitches). 

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (18 stitches). 

OPTIONAL – Insert the Fairy Bottom 0.75 circle piece of plastic canvas and push it down into the bottom of your work.

NOTE – This is optional, but recommended, as it creates a flatter base, so that the Fairy stands easily.

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for two rounds (18 stitches per round).

Work one single crochet into the first stitch, one single crochet invisible decrease into the next two stitches. 

Repeat this pattern for six times in total (12 stitches). 

Start adding some toy stuffing into the bottom of your body now.

Work one single crochet into each stitch around, for three rounds (12 stitches per round). 

Add some more stuffing here.

Work a single crochet invisible decrease into the first two stitches. Repeat this five times, working a total of six decreases (6 stitches). 

Change yarn color, adding in your choice of skin tone. 

To do this, cut the working yarn and make a slip knot with the new color. Put this on the end of the hook. Slipstitch with the new color and pull the tail of the old color to tighten.

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (6 stitches). 

Work two single crochets into each stitch around. (12 stitches).

Add some stuffing into the shoulders/neck that you have just made. 

Work one single crochet into each stitch around (12 stitches). 

Work one single crochet into the first stitch, two single crochets into the second stitch, then repeat this pattern six times in total (18 stitches).

Work one single crochet into the first stitch, one single crochet invisible decrease into the next two stitches. Then repeat this pattern, six times in total (12 stitches). 

Add stuffing into the head here.

Work a single crochet invisible decrease into the first two stitches. Repeat this five times, working a total of six decreases (6 stitches). 

Remove your stitch marker.

Finish off, leaving a tail.

Thread the tail end through a needle.

Weave the yarn in and out of the six single crochets made. This will close the top of the head. 

Tie off and weave in all yarn ends.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.16 for each Fairy you are creating.

The Hair is made by sewing bunches of yarn onto the Head. 

Using your choice of yarn color for the Hair, measure four inches and cut twenty four pieces. Lay these pieces out in sets of four. 

TIP – To customize your Fairy you could use a yarn that has a different texture or finish.

Choose the front of your Fairy. Cut a long piece of the hair colored yarn and thread it through a needle, tying a knot in the other end, leaving a three inch tail.

Count three rounds down from the top of the Fairy’s Head. Insert the needle through the Fairy’s head from the front to the back and pull the yarn through, stopping at the knot.

With the Fairy facing you, place the first section of hair above the yarn at the front of the Head. Stitch a backstitch over the hair, holding it in place. When the stitch is tight, it will hold the yarn securely.

Repeat step 8.4 the other sections of hair, working over the top of the head, and down to meet the knot and yarn tail at the back. 

Tie off the yarn leaving a two inch long tail.

Smooth the hair down around the Head, until you are happy with the positioning. Section off the hair that will lay at the back, side backs, and side fronts of the head.  

OPTIONAL – Move a section of hair away from the Head. Carefully apply glue. Starting at the back of the Head, lay the sections of hair down, smoothly onto the glued areas. Repeat for the rest of the hair.

TIP – You may want to leave some pieces of hair unglued around the front, at the sides of the face. Especially if you want to style the fairy’s hair.

NOTE – Using glue is optional, but we recommended at least gluing the hair onto the back and sides of the head, to keep it in place.

Leave the glue to dry. 

Trim the hair to an even length, or create your own style, using a sharp pair of scissors.

Repeat steps 8.1 to 8.7 for each Fairy you are creating.

Each Wing has a top and a bottom section, which are then sewn together. You will crochet 2x Top Wings and 2x Bottom Wings per Fairy.

The Fairy Wings are made using a White yarn and your C/1.5 (2.5mm) crochet hook.

Top Wing: Chain three, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above (3 stitches). 

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into the second and third chains (2 stitches). 

Chain one. Work two single crochet into both stitches (4 stitches). Turn your work.

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next two stitches, then two single crochets into the last stitch (6 stitches). Turn your work. 

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch across, then turn your work, for three rows (6 stitches per row). 

Chain one. Work a Single Crochet Two Together into the first two stitches, one single crochet into the next two stitches, then a single crochet two together into the last two stitches (4 stitches).

Turn your work. 

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch of the row, turn your work (4 stitches). 

Chain one. Work a Single Crochet Two Together into the first two stitches, then repeat for the last two stitches (2 stitches).

Turn your work. 

Chain one. Work a Single Crochet Two Together into the two stitches in the row (1 stitch). 

Finish off. 

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.9 to create the second top Wing.

Bottom Wing: Using a White yarn and your C/1.5 (2.5mm) crochet hook, chain two, following the directions in the Stitch Library instructions above.

Work two single crochets into the second chain from the hook (2 stitches). 

Turn your work. 

Chain one. Work two single crochets into both stitches of the row (4 stitches). 

Turn your work. 

Chain one. Work one single crochet in each stitch across, then turn your work, for two rows (4 stitches per row). 

Chain in one. Work a single crochet two together into the first two stitches, then again, into the second two stitches (2 stitches). 

Turn your work. 

Chain one. Work a single crochet two together into both stitches of the row (1 stitch). 

Finish off. 

Repeat steps 9.10 to 9.15 to create the second bottom Wing. 

Weave in all the yarn ends. Place the bottom Wing over the top Wing at an angle (as shown in the photo). Pin if required. 

Using a length of the same yarn, stitch the two pieces with small stitches.

Repeat for the second top and bottom Wing.

TIP- Take your time when sewing all the pieces together. Sewing slowly and carefully will give a better finished result.

Starting with the House Base, weave in any yarn ends. 

Choose the front of your House and pin on the Door. 

Position the three Windows, one at each side and one at the back and pin in place. 

If you would like to position as we have, the Window on the left is high, the Window on the right is low, and the Window on the back is roughly central. 

Stitch these pieces onto the base, using the same, Light Grey, yarn. Work small stitches into the back loops of the pieces, so that the stitches are less visible. 

Position and pin on the bunches of Grass at the bottom edge of the base. If you would like to position them as we have, here is how.

• Bunch A on the left side of the door, 
• Bunch B under the window, on the left side of the house. 
• Bunch C between the left side window and the back window. 
• Bunch D to the left of the back window. 
• Bunch E overlapping the left side of the window on the right of the house.

Using corresponding embroidery thread, stitch two or three small stitches up the lengths of each piece. Leave the top ends of the pieces unsewn, so that they curl over and give a more realistic effect.

Repeat for all bunches of Grass. 

OPTIONAL Roses – Pin three ribbon roses onto the top of each Window. 

Stitch on using matching thread. 

TIP – Customize your house by adding on more flowers at the Windows or other areas such as the Roof. 

OPTIONAL Key – Using the Aqua yarn from the house base, put a stitch through the tiny key, attaching it to the House, approximately half an inch to the right of the Door. 

TIP – Customize your Fairy House by adding ivy or other plants growing around the House. These could be embroidered on, crocheted, or cut out of felt.

OPTIONAL – You will now assemble the plastic canvas structure for the inside of the House Base. 

Take your House Wall and curl it around to make a cylinder. Overlap two rows of squares at the ends. With the yarn used to make the House Base, backstitch tightly, through the overlapping outer edge, onto the main section.

Then do the same for the edge inside the cylinder. This holds down these edges and keeps the cylinder smooth. 

NOTE – The plastic canvas is optional, however this will give strength and stability and a smooth, even finish to the House.

Position the House Bottom 4-inch circle of canvas, over one end of the cylinder. Using the same yarn, whipstitch the circle onto the cylinder piece, to create a cup or basket.

Ease the canvas insert into your house base. Gently stretch the sides of the base up, to cover the canvas. 

NOTE – This will not be visible once the house is assembled.

Fill the center with toy stuffing. 

Taking your Roof and the six Leaves you made, position the Leaves, evenly, around the Roof. The points of the leaves should taper up to the tip of the Roof. Pin.

With the corresponding yarn, carefully stitch the Leaves to the Roof. Use small stitches and sewing through only the back loops of each Leaf. 

NOTE – Do not sew down the bottom ends of the Leaves. Leave these unsewn, so that they can curl up slightly from the bottom edge of the Roof.

Take your piece of pipe cleaner and fold it in half. Then twist it a few times to secure it. Cut off any excess, so that you have a piece measuring 0.75 inches / 2 cm. 

Push this piece inside the pointy top of the Roof, so that you can bend it over.

Fill the rest of the Roof with toy stuffing.

Pin the circular bottom in place. 

Stitch on the bottom piece using Light Aqua yarn, whipstitching around the edge. 

Finish off.

Pin the Roof onto the Base of the House. Using the Aqua Yarn stitch the two together from the Base. 

Stitch through the stitches on the top edge of the House Base, then into the underside of the Roof (just under the whipstitches you made when attaching the Roof bottom). 

OPTIONAL Trim – Pin the mini pompom trim over the whipstitches along the bottom edge of the Roof. 

Using White cotton, stitch the trim on, using small running stitches. 

Pin both Wings on, centrally, onto the Fairy’s back to decide on placement.

Remove one Wing, then using White cotton, stitch the first Wing to the body of the Fairy using small whipstitches. 

Repeat for the second Wing.

Put a stitch or two through the side edge of each top Wing, working through the side of the Fairy body. This will hold the Wings close to the body, at the side and keep them secure. 

TIP – Customize your Fairy with an accessory, such as a wand or a bag.

OPTIONAL Wing Trim – Cut a 0.75-inch piece of very thin, white satin ribbon. Glue it down the center back of the wings, covering the stitching.

OPTIONAL Fairy Embellishments – Stitch on any embellishments you wish to use. 

If you wish to follow what we have done, stitch ribbon roses and pompom trim.

You could also add some beads, sequins, felt leaves, or felt flowers or work some decorative embroidery onto the Body or Wings of the Fairy.

Style the Fairy’s hair as desired. Here we have done a plait at the side (first photo) and short hair with a fringe (second photo)

TIP – It works best if you move the hair forward, around each side of the face. This keeps the hair out of the way of the Wings.

TIP – Customize the hair by adding a leaf crown. 

Repeat steps 10.14 to 10.18 per Fairy.