Family PJs – Men's Pajamas

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.

Interfacing

Trim ⅜ inch off the side of the Front Facing interfacing pieces, which is not attached to the Front Bodice. This is the side without the notch.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the interfacing onto both Front Facing pieces and one Collar. 

The interfacing is important as it will give structure to the front of the garment and prevent the buttons or snaps from pulling or tearing the fabric when undoing them.

TIP – Use a pressing cloth between the fabric and the iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or a scrap of 100% cotton will also work.

Staystitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. Otherwise, the neckline is likely to stretch and then the Collar won’t fit properly when you try to stitch it on.

Doing ‘directional stay stitching’ like this (e.g. stitching in the direction of the arrows) helps preserve the grainline and stops the fabric from twisting as you sew the rest of the garment. Staystitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ½ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Staystitch each armscye from shoulder seam to underarm on the front and back, and the front and back necklines in the direction of the arrows.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge shoulder seams, right sides together, using ½ inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance to the front. Then skip to step 2 for a Collar with piping or skip to step 3 for a plain Collar.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the shoulder seams together. A French seam will hide all the raw edges, giving a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so that you can follow along.

Place the Front Bodice onto the Back Bodice, wrong sides together, matching the raw edges at the shoulder. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.

Turn right sides together (wrong sides facing out) and press as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.

TIP – For some fabrics, you will find it easier to first press the seam to one side, then turn the fabric wrong side out and press it so the seam is in the middle. It gives a little more control and helps ensure the fold is nice and crisp.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Open the Bodice and press the seam toward the Front Bodice.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.6 for the other shoulder seam.

If you are not adding optional piping to your Collar skip to step 3. If you are adding optional piping to your Collar, follow below.

Piping is cotton cording wrapped in bias tape. This enables the piping to curve around the seams. Adding piping to a seam is a beautiful way to finish the seams and add some interesting detail.

Lay the interfaced Collar piece right side up. Pin the piping around the outer curved edge of the Collar, matching up the raw edges, leaving about 1-inch extra piping at either end. You are attaching the piping to the top edge.

Using a piping/zipper foot, baste the piping to the Collar within the seam allowance, but not close to the cord. You will be covering these basting stitches in step 2.4.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

TIP – Once you have basted the piping, clip into the curves of the piping fabric only. This will help the Collar pieces sit flat, making it easier to stitch.

Place the Collar pieces right sides together, sandwiching the piping between the two pieces. Pin.

Using the piping/zipper foot, stitch together. You will need to get the needle as close to the piping cord as you can, without sewing over it. Push the piping cord right up against the edge of the presser foot as you stitch. 

TIP – Turn the Collar right side out.  Check to see that the basting stitches and piping tape are not visible. If they are not visible, remove the basting stitches. If you can still see the tape, try stitching again closer to the piping cord.

Clip into the curves. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn the Collar right side out, smoothing out the curves so that the piping is centered at the seam.

Press the Collar well. The piping needs to sit perfectly in the seam allowance.

Skip to step 4.

If you have added optional piping to your Collar skip to step 4. If you are sewing the plain Collar, follow below.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch the seam with a ½ inch seam allowance. Turn the Collar right side out, smoothing out the curve so that the seam centered on at the fold. Press.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Place the two Collar pieces right side together. Pin around the outer curved edge. This is the side without notches.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip into the curves. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn the Collar right side out, smoothing out the curve so that the seam centered on at the fold. Press.

NOTE – The images shown in this step are the piped Collar, but the steps are the same.

Fold the Collar in half to find the center, marking the raw edge with a pin. 

Find the center of the Back Bodice at the neckline and mark with a pin.

Place the Collar onto the Back Bodice, right sides together, matching the centers and raw edges. Pin.

NOTE – The interfaced Collar will be at the bottom.

Pin each end of the Collar at the notch marking on both sides of the Front Bodice.

Continue pinning the Collar to the neckline, matching up the raw edges, and easing it along the seam allowance.

NOTE – The Collar has a straight edge, while the Bodice has a curved neckline. You need to ease and pin at the seam allowance in order for it to fit correctly.

Wrong side facing up, pin the shoulder seams flat and facing the front. 

This is important for when the Front Facing pieces are attached.

Baste together, stopping ⅜ inch from the end of the Collar.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Stitch the inside edge (the edge with the interfacing trimmed off) of the two Front Facing pieces, from the shoulder seam to the bottom straight edge. Then skip to step 5.3 if you are adding OPTIONAL piping, or skip to step 5.4. 

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow the steps below.

Fold the inside edge of the Front Facing over by ¼ inch. Press.

NOTE – This is the edge with the interfacing trimmed off.

Fold again by ¼ inch. Press. 

Pin in place.

Topstitch ⅛ of an inch to make sure all the raw edges are enclosed. 

If you would like to add OPTIONAL piping to the Front Facing, follow below. If you would prefer to leave it out, skip to step 5.4.

OPTIONAL PIPING – Lift up the end of the Collar at the piping edge and place the end of another strip of piping underneath. The two ends of the piping should overlap at the ½ inch seam allowance and have at least a ½ inch overhang.

With the raw edges of the Bodice and piping together, pin the piping down the edge of the Front Bodice stopping at the hem.

Using a piping/zipper foot, baste the piping, starting within the seam allowance of the Collar, down where the two pieces of piping cross over each other, all the way down to the hem.  

TIP – Once you have basted the piping, clip into the curves of the piping fabric only. This will help the Front Facing piece sit flat, making it easier to stitch.

Lay the Front Facing piece on top of the Front Bodice piece right sides together, matching the markings. The Front Facing will overlap the Collar. Pin.

With wrong sides facing up, make a mark, within the seam allowance, ⅛ inch from the shoulder seam, on the front of the bodice. This is where you will start stitching the Front Facing from.

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – If you have added optional piping, use a piping/zipper foot and stitch as close the piping cord as you can.

Trim off the excess piping at the Collar.

Fold the straight raw edge of the Front Facing over ¼ inch and press. Fold again ¼ inch and press.  Pin.

NOTE – Do not pin the Front Facing to the Collar. 

Clip into the curve of the Front Facing, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.9 for the other side.

You will be binding the raw edge of the neck using single fold bias binding.

Cut a piece of single fold bias tape long enough to cover the back neckline with 1 inch overlapping each end of the Front Facing. 

Press one side of the bias tape open.

Pin the open side of the bias tape to the raw edge of the neckline, overlapping the Front Facings by 1 inch on each side.

Stitch in the fold of the bias tape.

NOTE – You will be stitching through multiple layers. Go slowly and carefully, checking you have stitched through all layers and pieces correctly.

Clip into the seam allowance. Be very careful not to clip through the stitching.

Starting at one end of the Front Facing, trim the seam allowance approximately in half, through to the other Front Facing.

Flip your Front Facings right side out, pushing out the curves.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Flip the Front Facing up and fold the bias tape flat, covering the raw seam.

Starting where the Front Facing meets the bias tape, stitch all along the neckline, close to the edge of the bias tape, ending at the other Front Facing.

Flip the folded edge of the Front Facing over the end of the bias tape. Pin.

Pin the folded edge of the Front Facing to the shoulder seam making sure the edge of the Front Facing overlaps the shoulder seam by at least ⅛ inch. 

Transfer the pin to the RIGHT side putting it in the same place. 

‘Stitch in the ditch’ to secure the Front Facing to the Bodice. This is where the stitching goes exactly on top of a previous seam, just catching the other side of the Front Facing in the stitching and which encloses the raw edges. The stitching is not easily visible in the finished garment.

With right side facing up, stitch from the Collar, along the shoulder seam, to the end of the Front Facing.

Stitch slowly and hold the Bodice and Front Facing flat on both sides of the presser foot to help stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Bodice. Occasionally, lift the Bodice up to check that the stitching is catching the other side of the Front Facing.

TIP – Use a matching thread and aim for a tiny fraction over the Front Facing. This usually ends up fairly invisible.

When you turn it over the Front Facing should be stitched down, matching the shoulder seam stitching.

Repeat steps 6.8 to 6.10 for the other Front Facing. This will finish off the raw edges of the neckline.

Fold the top of the Chest Pocket piece ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.  

Fold the bottom edge of the Chest Pocket piece ¼ inch to the wrong side. Press.

With right sides facing up, fold the top edge ½ inch to the right side. Press.

Pin at the sides. 

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance, stopping right at the end of the folded edge from step 7.1.

With wrong sides facing up, clip in between the two layers ¼ inch down from the top edge. You are cutting horizontally to the stitching. Be careful not to clip into the stitching. 

Take the side and fold it over by ½ inch. Press.

Trim the seam allowance from step 7.7 approximately in half.

Carefully clip the corner without cutting the stitches.

Repeat steps 7.5 to 7.8 for the other side.

Fold the bottom over by ¼ inch. Press. 

Fold each side over by ¼ inch. Press. This will hide the raw edges and create a memory hem on the corners and folds.

Turn the top edge inside out. The top of the Chest Pocket will not have any visible edges. Pin in place again and press.

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edge.

Lay the Bodice right sides facing up. Place the Chest Pocket at the pattern marking, right sides facing up.

Pin on each side and at the bottom.

TIP – Check the Pocket placement is as you would like it, before stitching it down in the next step.

Topstitch ⅛ inch from the folded edges along the sides, the bottom and up the other side.

TIP – Backstitch at the top of the Pocket, pivoting the needle at the corners. 

TIP – Add bar tacks at the top on each side to secure it. You can do this by using a zigzag stich with a length of 0.5mm and a width of 0.3mm.

NOTE – Keep the Front Facing out the way so that it does not get caught in the stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the side seams, right sides together, using ½ inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance to the back. Then skip to step 9.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.

You are going to stitch the Front to the Back along the side seam using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Repeat step 8.1 for the other side seam.

Press the side seams flat toward the Back Bodice on the inside.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – OPTIONAL: Serge the Sleeve hem to finish the raw edges, then fold under by ½ inch and press to create a memory hem. Pin the Sleeve side seams, right sides together. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Insert Sleeve into Bodice with right sides together and pin. Serge using ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for other Sleeve. Skip to step 10.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below. 

Stitch the long straight edges of the Sleeve together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Mark the center of the Sleeve with a pin.

Mark the center of the armscye with a pin.

NOTE – The center is not exactly at the shoulder seam.

NOTE – There is a front and back to the Sleeve. Check you are attaching the correct Sleeve to the front piece.

With wrong sides together, insert the Sleeve into the Bodice, matching up the center points. Pin.

Match the Sleeve seam to the Bodice side seam. Pin. 

Continue pinning the Sleeve to the Bodice all the way around matching the raw edges. 

Use a French seam to attach the Sleeve to the Bodice, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.5 for the other Sleeve.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem edge of the Sleeves without cutting any seam allowance off. Turn the hem over to the wrong side ½ inch and pin. Then skip to step 10.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.

Turn the Sleeve hem ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press.

Turn under another ¼ inch and press again. The raw edges will now be enclosed.

Pin in place.

With right sides facing out, topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 10.1 to 10.3 for the other Sleeve.

With the Bodice right side facing up, flip the Front Facing over the Bodice so wrong sides are facing up. 

Pin the Facing at the hem line.

Stitch using ½ inch seam allowance across the Front Facing.

With wrong sides facing up, clip in between the two layers ¼ inch away from the Front Facing seam. You are cutting vertically to the stitching. Be careful not to clip into the stitching. 

Fold the hem up to the ½ inch to the stitch line from step 10.5. Press.

Trim the seam allowance from step 10.5 approximately in half.

Carefully clip the corner without cutting the stitches.

Fold the hem over ¼ inch to enclose the raw edge. Press and pin in place.

Repeat steps 10.4 to 10.6 for the other side. 

Flip the Front Facings over to the wrong side of the Bodice pushing out the corners. Pin.

With right sides facing out, topstitch close to the folded edge. Backstitch at each end stopping ⅛ inch from the edge.  

Sew buttonholes on the Front Bodice, using the markings you previously transferred. Or add snaps to the pattern markings down the front edge.

NOTE – If you are sewing your pajamas for a Man/Boy, buttonholes are usually on the left side (with buttons the right). If you are sewing for a Lady/Girl, the buttonholes will be on the right side (with buttons on the left).

TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!

TIP – If you are using top stitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, if your top stitching thread gives you difficulty, switch to a matching color or use a contrasting color in a regular weight. 

TIP – Use a seam ripper to open each buttonhole. Place a pin across one end to stop from ripping through the other side of your buttonhole.

Attach buttons to the opposite Front, using the markings you previously transferred.

TIP – To make sure your buttons line up precisely, check back against your buttonholes before stitching to ensure it is going to line up. If needed, move any buttons to better line up with your buttonholes.

TIP – When sewing flat buttons on pajamas, I like to use 3 threads of embroidery floss. 

Do not stitch the buttons too close to the garment but instead leave enough space for the overlap layer. To do so, you will need to build a shank out of thread. 

To make the shank, sew your buttons with a toothpick over it. Once you are done sewing the button, remove the toothpick. This will automatically loosen up your button. Pull gently on the button to the end of your stitches to transfer all extra space under the button. 

Wrap your threads around the loops underneath the button a few times.  

Finish by sewing a few small stitches to the wrong side the of fabric at the base of the shank. 

Your pajama top is finished!

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If adding Pockets, place a Back Leg piece right side up, lay a Pocket piece with right sides together, at the side seam of the leg, matching up the straight edges with the top of the Pocket right at the mark from the pattern piece. The curve of the Pocket should be going downward. Serge the Pocket in place using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other 3 leg pieces. Before stitching, make sure to check that you have mirrored the Pattern pieces when the fronts and backs are placed together. Then skip to step 13.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.

Place one Pocket piece wrong sides together along the Back Leg side seam, aligning the top of the Pocket with the Pocket marking on the pattern piece. Pin.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance of the Pocket in half, then turn, matching right sides together. Press.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge.

Snip the folded seam allowance at the top and bottom of the Pocket so the fabric lays flat.

Open the Pocket out and press the seam allowance towards the Pocket.

Repeat steps 12.1 to 12.4 with the other Pocket piece to the Back Leg and the 2 mirror Pocket pieces to both Front Legs.

When you attach your pockets to the Front Pants piece, check the alignment of the Pocket against the Back by holding the Front and Back Leg pieces together. The front Pocket needs to match up on the side seam with where you placed the back Pocket.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION –

• If you are doing the Pockets, place a mirrored pair on the front side seams and the other pair on the back seams, with right sides together and lining up where the marking on the pattern piece indicates. Use a ½ inch seam allowance to serge a Pocket piece to each front and back side seam. Check that you have the mirrored pattern pieces matching when you put the Fronts and Backs together. Place the Front and Back Pants pieces together, serging down each side seam and pivoting around the Pockets using a ½ inch seam allowance.
• If you are not doing the Pockets, place the Front and Back right sides together and serge down each side seam using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Then skip to step 14.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – We will be using French seams here again for the side seams. Follow below.

Place the Front and Back Leg wrong sides together, matching the side seams and Pockets if you have added them.

POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and around the Pocket edge with a ¼ inch seam allowance.

When you reach the join between the Pocket and the pants, place your needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. Then, place your presser foot back down and continue. This will give a neat, sharp corner.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Stitch each side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance. Clip into the corners where the Pocket meets the pants. Again, clip close to the seam but not all the way in (approximately ⅛ inch away).

TIP – For maximum control, use the very point of your scissors when you clip into the corners where the pocket meets the pants. It is harder to control the blade further down and easy to accidentally cut past the seam allowance. If you use the tip, you can do several small snips and get them exactly where you want them.

Make a clip into the seam of the leg right above and right below each edge of the Pockets. Clip right to the stitching, but DO NOT cut into it.

Trim the seams in half going from the top of the legs around the Pockets and down each leg.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Trim the seam allowance.

Turn inside out, matching right sides together, and press.

POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seam and Pocket again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out. Press Pockets towards the front.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Stitch along the side seams again with ¼ inch seam allowance.

Turn right side out.

POCKETS OPTION – Open the Pant leg and press the Pockets towards the front.

NO POCKETS OPTION – Open the Pant leg and press the side seam to the back.

Repeat steps 13.1 to 13.5 for the other Front and Back Legs.

NOTE – The images shown include the optional Pants Pockets, however the steps are the same with or without.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the raw edges of the sides of the Pant leg. With right sides facing sew together at the inseams using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other Pant leg. Then, skip to step 15.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.

Stitch the inseam of the Pant leg together using a French seam, following the same steps we did for steps 1.1 to 1.6.

Start with the wrong sides together (right sides out) and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.

Turn and press.

Stitch again at ¼ inch.

Repeat for the other Pant leg.

NOTE – The images shown include the optional Pants Pockets, however the steps are the same with or without.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Slide one pant leg inside the other right sides together. Match up the inseams and all raw edges at the waist. Pin. Serge the seam using a ½ inch seam allowance. Press the seam to one side. Skip to step 16.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – We will be using French seams in this step. Follow below.

Turn one leg right side out.

Slide the other leg into the leg that is right sides out. The legs are now wrong sides together.

Align the inseams and the waist raw edges. Pin the legs together along the rise. 

TIP – Lay the sewn seams in opposite directions, butting them together. This will help reduce bulk at the inseam.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Clip into the seam allowance. Be careful not to clip into the stitching.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half.

Turn the pant legs so they are right sides out. Press the seam to one side.

Take one pant leg and push it back inside the other, this time right sides together. 

Press so that the stitching is at the center of the fold.

Pin. 

NOTE – Check that the French seam at the top of the inseam is lying flat.

Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. 

Open the pants leg wrong sides out. Press the seam to one side.

NOTE – The images shown include the optional Pants Pockets, however the steps are the same with or without.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the top edge of the waist trimming off ⅛ inch seam allowance. Fold the edge over to the wrong side 1 inch and pin. Then skip to step 16.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.

With the Pants wrong side facing out, fold the top edge of the waist over by ½ inch. Press. 

Fold over again 1.1 inch. Press and pin.

Starting at the back of the pants, stitch ⅛ inch away from the inside edge of the fold. Leave an opening at the back seam to insert the elastic. 

Insert the elastic through the gap left in step 16.3 and pull it through the waistband.

TIP – Pin the opposite end of elastic to the pants while threading it through the waistband so it doesn’t get pulled inside.  

FIT CHECK – If you have your model available, try the cut piece of elastic around their waist. Check that it will sit comfortably around their waist and will hold up the pants, before continuing to the next step.

Check that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the waistband.

Overlap the short ends of your elastic by ½ inch each (total amount of elastic overlapping should be 1 inch).

Stitch a zig zag stitch several times over the ends of the elastic.

Pull the elastic inside the Waistband. Stitch the gap closed.

OPTIONAL – You can add a piece of ribbon into the seam to help identify the back of the Pants. Fold the ribbon in half and insert the raw edges into the gap at the back seam. Pin in place, sandwiching it in the seam. Stitch over the ribbon when you close the gap. 

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge the hem edge of the legs without cutting any seam allowance off. Fold the edge over to the wrong side ½ inch and pin. Then skip to step 17.3.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.

Turn the Pants hem ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press.

Turn under the hem another ¼ inch and press again. The raw edges will now be enclosed.

Pin in place.

With right sides facing out, topstitch close to the folded edge.

Repeat steps 17.1 to 17.3 for the other Pant leg.