Each of the following stitches will be used in this pattern. All US Terminology is used in this pattern. The steps will show how to do them step-by-step, but you might prefer to get familiar with them before getting started.

Wrap the yarn around the hook from back to front.

With a slip knot on your hook, yarn over.

Pull your hook down and through the loop on your hook, leaving one loop.

Leaving a tail (around 4-5 inches long) of yarn at the front of your hand, wrap the yarn loosely, around your first finger. Wrap the yarn from the front, crossing the yarn at the top of your finger.

Insert your hook under the yarn on the right side. Hook the yarn on the left, pull it under the yarn on the right, twisting the hook as you pull it through.

Carefully take the knot off your finger. Pull the free end, to tighten the knot.

Pull the working yarn, to tighten the loop on your hook. Now you are ready to work.

Insert your hook into the top loop, yarn over.

Pull the loop of yarn through, yarn over again.

Pull through both loops on your hook.

Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over.

Pull through the loop of yarn.

Insert your hook into the second stitch, yarn over.

Pull through a loop of yarn. Yarn over.

Pull through all three loops on the hook.

Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over again and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Insert your hook into the top loop. Yarn over.

Pull through the loop of yarn.

Pull the loop of yarn through the first loop on your hook as well.

Yarn over, insert your hook into the top loop.

Yarn over, pull through the loop of yarn.

Yarn over again, pull through the first two loops on your hook.

Yarn over a final time and pull through the remaining two loops.

Chain three.

Work a slip stitch into the top loop of the first chain of the three you made.

Finish off by cutting the yarn and pulling the end through the loop on the hook. Pull this tight, to stop the stitches unravelling.

The pattern also includes hand sewing techniques. We recommend using embroidery floss for these hand stitches. Use two strands from a six-strand embroidery floss so when both strands are threaded through the needle and folded over, the two strands will become 4 strands.

We use a whipstitch when sewing felt as it is an easy way to stitch flat seams, encasing the seam allowances in the stitching.

Thread the needle with colored embroidery floss/thread and attach to the inside of the fabric pieces, following the ‘Attaching Thread’ directions in the Hand Sewing Instructions above.

TIP – To make the stitches even, mark your finger with lines ⅛ to ¼ inch apart. Use this to line up your stitches, matching the distance on your finger.

Put the needle through one of the pieces of the fabric so it comes out on the right side of the fabric about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from the edge. Then bring the needle over both pieces of fabric and insert it into the fabric ⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge. Pull the needle through to the underside of the fabric.

Move the needle back over both pieces of fabric and put the needle back into the fabric about ⅛ to ¼ inch away from where it came up. Be sure to go through both layers. Pull the needle all the way through to the wrong side of the fabric and pull the thread taut.

Repeat all the way around.

NOTE – It is advisable to read through each step, before you start crocheting, to ensure that you understand the step fully.

NOTE – This pattern uses chain one and slip stitch at the start or end of rows worked. These do not count, in the stitch numbers given for each row.

Sample Square

If you are a beginner, or are substituting with a different weight yarn, it may be helpful to work a sample square, to check your gauge is correct, for this pattern. Make the sample square using the first 5 rows of 5 stitches and a 4mm hook.  You can try working with a larger or smaller hook size if your gauge needs adjusting.

These pieces are made by crocheting in increasing and decreasing rows, to shape the bodies. You will then add further shaping, by working a border around the edges of the rows.

With the dark pink yarn, Chain four.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work two single crochets into all three starting chains and turn your work. (6 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next four stitches and two single crochets into the last stitch. Turn. (8 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next six stitches and two single crochets into the last stitch. Turn. (10 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next eight stitches and two single crochets into the last stitch. Turn. (12 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch across and turn. (12 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet two together into the first two stitches, one single crochet into the next eight stitches. Then one single crochet two together into the last two stitches, turn. (10 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet two together into the first two stitches, then one single crochet into the remaining eight stitches and turn. (9 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet two together into the first two stitches, one single crochet into the next five stitches. Then one single crochet two together into the last two stitches and turn. (7 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first three stitches, then two single crochet two together into the remaining four stitches and turn. (5 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochet two together into the first four stitches and one single crochet into the last stitch, turn. (3 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first stitch, then a single crochet two together in the last two stitches and turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one, skip the first stitch and work two single crochets into the second stitch, turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into both stitches and turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one. Skip the first stitch and work two single crochets into the second stitch and turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, skip the second stitch and turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first stitch and two single crochets into the second stitch, turn. (3 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first stitch, then two single crochets into the next two stitches and turn. (5 stitches)

Chain one.  Work two single crochets into the first three stitches and one single crochet into the last two stitches, turn. (8 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first two stitches, one double crochet into the next four stitches, then two double crochets into the last two stitches and turn. (10 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first four stitches, one single crochet into the next five stitches, then two single crochets into the last stitch, turn. (15 stitches)

Chain one.  Work one single crochet into the first 13 stitches, two single crochets into the next stitch and one single crochet into the last stitch, turn. (16 stitches)

Chain two. Work one double crochet into each stitch across and turn. (16 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochet two together into the first four stitches, one single crochet into the next five stitches and one double crochet into the next four stitches. 

Then work one single crochet two together into the next two stitches and finally, one double crochet into the last stitch and turn. (13 stitches)

Chain two. Work two double crochets into the first stitch, then a slip stitch into the next stitch and turn. Turn after completing the first Body only. (3 stitches)

DO NOT FINISH OFF. 

First Flamingo Body Border – Continue to step 1.26.

Second Flamingo Body Border – Skip to step 1.33.

First Flamingo Body Border – Chain one. Skip the slip stitch just made, work one single crochet into the next stitch and three double crochets into the last stitch of the row. (4 stitches) 

Moving up the side of the flamingo’s body, crocheting into the row ends. See the needle in the photo for reference. 

Work one double crochet into the first two stitches, and one single crochet into the next 10 stitches. (12 stitches)

Work one single crochet two together into the next two stitches, then one single crochet into the next 13 stitches up around the head. (14 stitches)

Work three single crochets into the back of the chains at the top of the head and one single crochet into each of the next 10 stitches down the other side of the head. (13 stitches)

Work two single crochet two together into the next four stitches, moving down the neck. Then one single crochet into the next four stitches. (6 stitches)

Work three double crochets into the next stitch and skip one stitch, where the needle indicates, in the photo. One double crochet into the next three stitches, then two double crochets into the next two stitches. (10 stitches)

You should now just have the bottom edge left to work across. 

Work one double crochet into the first nine stitches, one half double crochet into the next stitch and one single crochet into the last stitch. (11 stitches)

Finish off and weave the tail ends into the wrong side of the Body.

Second Flamingo Body Border – When you have completed your second body piece, up to step 1.25, DO NOT TURN at the end of the row. You are going to crochet the border in the opposite direction to the first flamingo. 

Moving back along the bottom edge, work one single crochet into the first stitch, this is worked into the same space as the slip stitch just made in step 1.25. (1 stitch)

Stitch one half double crochet into the second stitch, one double crochet in the next nine stitches, then two double crochets into the next two stitches, moving around the corner. (14 stitches)

Crocheting up the side, again crocheting into the row ends, work one double crochet into the next three stitches, skip one stitch, then work three double crochets into the next stitch. Work one single crochet into the next four stitches and two single crochet two together into the next four stitches. (12 stitches)

Work one single crochet into the next 10 stitches, up the first side of the head, one single crochet into the three chains at the top and one single crochet into the next 13 stitches, down the other side of the head. (26 stitches)

Work one single crochet two together into the next two stitches and one single crochet into the next 10 stitches. (12 stitches)

Finally, work one double crochet into the next two stitches, three double crochets into the next stitch and one single crochet in the last stitch. (6 stitches)

Finish off and weave the tail ends into the wrong side of the piece, as with the first Body, and you have two completed mirror image Bodies

With white yarn, chain four.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into the three chains in the row and turn your work. (3 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch across and turn. Repeat for two rows. (3 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first stitch and one single crochet two together into the last two stitches, turn. (2 stitches)

Change color to black. 

To do this, cut the white yarn and put a slip knot of black yarn, on to the end of your hook. Slip the black yarn through the white loop and pull the white yarn to tighten it.

Chain one. Work one single crochet into both stitches of the row and turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet two together into both stitches of the row, finish off and weave in the ends.

Beak Border – Join the white yarn in the top left corner. To do this insert your hook into the starting space, put a slip knot of yarn onto the hook, and slip it through to the front of the work. 

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first four stitches along the row edges. (4 stitches)

Change color to black, as in step 2.5. Work one single crochet into the next two stitches. (2 stitches)

Work a picot stitch and single crochet back into the same space as the single crochet made before the picot stitch. Then one single crochet into the next two stitches. (3 stitches)

Change color to white. Finally work one single crochet into the last four stitches to complete the edging. (4 stitches)

NOTE – The edging is worked on three sides, as the fourth side will not be visible, when the flamingo is assembled.

Finish off and weave the ends into the wrong side of the Beak.

Beak 2 – The second Beak is mostly made in the same way as Beak 1. Except that step 2.4 is reversed. 

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.3. 

Then chain one. Work one single crochet two together into the first two stitches and one single crochet into the last stitch, turn. (3 stitches)

Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.7.

Before working the border for Beak 2, turn the piece over, so that it faces the same direction as Beak 1. 

This is so that you can work the edging, in the same way as you did for the first Beak. But when you turn it back over at the end, you will have a Beak that points in the opposite direction, to match with the second Body.

Repeat steps 2.8 to 2.13.

With pale pink yarn, chain nine.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into each chain across, turn your work. (8 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into the first three stitches, one single crochet two together in the next two stitches and one single crochet into the last three stitches, turn. (7 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, and one single crochet into the next six stitches, turn. (8 stitches)

Chain one. Skip the first stitch, work one single crochet into the next six stitches, and three single crochets into the last stitch, turn. (9 stitches)

Chain one. Work one single crochet into each stitch across the row, turn. (9 stitches)

Chain one. Skip the first stitch, work one single crochet into the next six stitches and skip the last two stitches, turn. (6 stitches)

Chain one. Work three single crochets into the first stitch and two single crochets into the next stitch. Then one single crochet into the next three stitches and skip the last stitch, turn. (8 stitches)

Chain one. Skip the first two stitches, work one single crochet into the next four stitches and two single crochets into the last two stitches, turn. (8 stitches) 

DO NOT FINISH OFF.

Wing Border – This is worked around three sides of the Wing. 

Crocheting along the top edge, Chain one. Work one single crochet into the next eight stitches. (8 stitches)

Moving around to work along the row ends and skipped stitches, put one single crochet along the next eight stitches and work two single crochets into the last stitch. (10 stitches)

Moving along the bottom edge, work one single crochet into the first six stitches and two half double crochets into the corner. (8 stitches)

Finish off and weave the ends into the wrong side of the Wing.

Wing 2 – Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.9, but DO NOT TURN after working step 3.9. 

Finish off. 

Join the same yarn, (as in step 2.8) in the opposite corner, (where you finished the border for Wing 1) so that the border will be worked the opposite way around the Wing.

Chain two. Work two half double crochets into the first stitch, then one single crochet into the next six stitches along the bottom. Finish the row with two single crochets into the last stitch. (10 stitches)

Work one single crochet into the eight row ends and skipped stitches. (8 stitches)

Work one single crochet into each of the eight stitches along the top edge. (8 stitches)

Finish off and weave the ends into the wrong side of the Wing. 

Now you will have a Wing that matches up with each Flamingo Body.

With pale pink yarn, chain two.

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one single crochet into the other chain and turn. (1 stitch)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the stitch of this row and turn. (2 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into both stitches of the row, turn. (4 stitches)

Chain one. Work two single crochets into the first stitch, one single crochet into the next two stitches, then two single crochets into the last stitch, turn. (6 stitches)

Chain two. Work one double crochet into the first stitch, a slip stitch into the second stitch, then repeat this pattern three times, in total. (6 stitches)

Turn the foot over. This is the right side, with the Flamingo’s toes prominent. 

Finish off and weave the ends into the wrong side of the Foot.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.7 to make four Feet total. 

Blocking – The pieces are inclined to curl, we recommend blocking everything, except the Feet. 

Pin the pieces onto a firm, flat surface. Make sure they are all lying smoothly and evenly. 

Spray with water, or spray starch/fabric stiffener etc. if preferred, and leave to air dry naturally. 

This will help to stop the curling and set the shape.

Attaching the beaks – Line up the Beaks with the sides of the Flamingo heads and pin in place. 

Make sure the Beaks both line up when you hold the pieces, with wrong sides together.

Cut a length of dark pink yarn and knot the end.

TIP – Split the yarn in half to reduce the thickness.

Using small whipstitches, sew around the edge of the Beak, where it meets the head. 

When you reach the front edge, sew through the underside of a couple of the stitches of the head border. 

This is to hold to front of the head and the front of the Beak together. 

Tie off and weave in the end, for extra security. 

Repeat this for the second Flamingo.

Attaching the Wings – Position the wings, with the top sections, overlapping the top of the Flamingo Bodies and pin in place.

Lay them wrong sides together to check they are in the same spot on both Flamingo Bodies. 

Cut a length of pale pink yarn and knot the end.

TIP – Split the yarn in half to reduce the thickness.

Starting at the top of the Wing, where it meets the top of the Body, whipstitch through only the back loops of the crochet stitches. 

Stop when you reach the end of the crochet border. This allows some movement in the section of the Wing not sewn down. 

Tie off and weave in the end, at the back of the Body. 

Repeat 5.9 to 5.11 for the second Wing and Body. 

Assembling and attaching the Legs – Take one of the pieces of ribbon and one Foot, with the wrong side facing upwards. 

Overlap half an inch of ribbon, over the top of the Foot.

With pale pink yarn, whipstitch the ribbon onto the Foot. 

Tie off.

Sandwich the ribbon between two Feet, wrong sides together. 

Whipstitch around the edges of the two Feet to join them.

Repeat steps 5.7 to 5.8 for the second Foot.

Position the top ends of the ribbons on the wrong side of one of the Flamingo Bodies, overlapping ½ inch. There should be around four inches of ribbon visible. 

Space the ribbons around 1.5 inches apart.

Whipstitch the ends of them to the Body.

Inserting the Eyes – Taking one of the Flamingos, measure ½ inch into the head, across from the bottom of the Beak. 

Measure 1 inch down from the top of the head. 

Where these points meet, push the shank of a safety eye through a gap in the stitches. 

Push the backs onto the eye, to fix it in place.

Repeat steps 5.21 to 5.22 with the second Flamingo Body.

Joining the Flamingos – Lay the Flamingos wrong sides together and match up the edges. 

Pin or clip them together.

Do not clip the Wings, but the Body underneath the Wings. 

Cut a length of dark pink yarn, knot the end, leaving a tail to weave in at the end. 

Starting at the outside edge of one of the Ribbon Legs, use a whipstitch to attach the Bodies together. 

Sew through only the back loops of the single crochet border to keep the seam less obvious. 

When you get to the Beak, skip to step 5.28.

When you have sewn around the head to the top edge of the Beak, you can either: 

Tie off the yarn and restart at the bottom of the Beak. 

OR 

Weave the yarn through the back of one of the head pieces and continue sewing underneath the Beak.

When you reach the end of the Beak or have finished threading in tails, skip to step 5.29.

Continue to sew down the rest of the Body, until you reach other outer edge of the second Ribbon Leg. 

Now pause the sewing and add some toy stuffing into the Flamingo. 

How much stuffing you want to use is up to you. We recommend adding stuffing in the head and Body, but not the neck.

After stuffing whipstitch between the Ribbon Legs to close the Body.

Starting with a length of white yarn, whipstitch along the top of the Beak. 

Tie off and continue to whipstitch with the black yarn when the stitches change color. 

OPTIONAL – Add stuffing to Beak. 

Change back to white yarn on the underside of the Beak and finish sewing the Beaks together. 

Making a Hanging Loop – Cut a length of dark pink yarn and thread a needle onto the end. 

This yarn needs to be twice the length of the loop that you desire, plus 1 inch. 

The loop shown here is 5 inches long. We used an 11-inch length of yarn. 

Starting from the top of the Beak, count 11 stitches around the top of the head. Insert the needle here. 

Bring the needle through the stitches on both sides of the Flamingo. 

Pull the yarn through, remove the needle, then knot the ends and trim to neaten them.