Fold Up Shopping Bag

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

Interfacing

Use the manufacturer’s instructions to apply the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Main Base piece. 

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Keyring Tab, follow below. If you are not adding it, skip to step 2.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use this. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold the Keyring Tab in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Open the Keyring Tab, then fold the two long sides into the middle and press.

Refold the Keyring Tab along the center edge, folding the raw edges to the inside. 

Topstitch each long edge using ⅛ inch seam allowance.

Thread the Keyring Tab through the swivel clasp. Fold the Keyring Tab over, matching up the short ends to form a loop. Pin. 

NOTE: A keyring can be used instead of a swivel clasp.

OPTIONAL – Stitch the two layers of the Keyring Tab together. 

TIP – Use a zipper foot to stitch as close as possible to the swivel clasp. This will help prevent it from sliding around on the Keyring Tab.

Baste the two layers of the Keyring Tab together at the raw edges using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Lay the Bag pieces right sides together matching the sides. Pin. Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – You will be using a French seam to enclose all raw edges and have beautiful finishing on the inside of the bag. If you have never done a French seam, don’t worry, we’ll have all the steps included here. 

Lay the Bag pieces wrong sides together (right sides facing out), matching the sides. Pin.

NOTE – The sides are the opposite edges to where the handle placement markings are.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance approximately in half. 

TIP – Trimming makes it possible to hide all the threads and raw edges when the seam is encased in the next step. Trim the seam allowance in half to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice. 

Turn wrong side out and press the folded seam as flat as possible from the other side. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

Stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. 

This will encase the raw edges, so they are not seen (a French seam).

Turn right side out and press the seam as flat as possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.

If you are using Strap Webbing, skip to step 3.2.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.4 for each Handle piece. 

OPTIONAL – Stitch additional rows of topstitching as desired.

Place the Handles onto the right side of the Bag at the pattern markings. Pin. 

NOTE – Check that your Handles aren’t twisted.

NOTE – If you used the cut chart for your pattern pieces you will need to add the pattern markings to the top edge (width). Measuring from the center to either side:

• L measure 2.2 inches
• M measure 2 inches
• S measure 1.5 inches

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Fold the top edge (including the Handles) ½ inch to the wrong side. Press. This will create a memory hem. 

NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the Bag. It is much easier to do this now, than to try and press the Bag hem later.

Turn your Bag wrong side out. Fold the top edge 3 inches to the wrong side. Pin.

Topstitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

Flip the Handles up. Stitch a rectangle just short of 3 inches. Stitch an X inside it to strengthen the seam. 

TIP – Stitch the rectangle and X all in one go. Stitch over a previous stitch line if you need to.

NOTE – You will need to stitch each side of each Handle, four rectangles in total.

Fold the Main Base in half widthwise and mark the center on both long edges.

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Keyring Tab, follow below. If you are not adding it, skip to step 4.4.

Place the Keyring Tab onto the right side of the Main Base at the pattern marking. Pin.

Stitch using a ⅛ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Stitch back and forth a few times to secure the Keyring Tab.

Open your zipper. Align the top zipper stop to the center of the long edge and keyring tab with the right side of the zipper facing to the right side of the Main Base. Separate the zipper teeth, matching one side of the zipper tape to the raw edge around to the center point on the opposite side of the Main Base. Pin.

Continue pinning the second side of the zipper teeth, matching the zipper tape to the raw edge going the opposite direction. 

TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting while sewing, apply washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

NOTE – The zipper teeth will be facing inwards.

NOTE – Check that your zipper is not twisted.

Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Check that the keyring tab is laying flat against the Base before stitching the zipper tape.

NOTE – Avoid stitching too close to the zipper teeth, this will help prevent the likelihood of the bag getting caught in the zipper. 

NOTE – Check that you can open and close your zipper before moving on.

Stitch across the zipper teeth approximately ½ inch from the Base edge. This will create the bottom stop.

Trim the extra tape.

NOTE – Before stitching make sure the zipper pull is on the bag side of the zipper tape. 

Clip into your seam allowance at the curved edges. This will help your fabric lay flat. 

NOTE – Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

Find and mark the center points on the curved edges of the Main Base. Find and mark the center points of the Bag.

Place the Bag onto the Base, right sides together, matching the center points of the Bag and the Base, and the Bag side seams to the center points of the curved edge of the base. Pin.

Using a zipper foot, stitch the Bag to the Base using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Start at the bottom of the zipper and try to stitch along the previous stitching.

NOTE – Do not stitch over the zipper bottom as you are stitching the Base on. The zipper will not close if it has been stitched over. 

Starting at the top edge of the bag, roll it up towards the Main Base until it is the same size.

Place the Base Lining on top of the Bag, right side facing down. Pin to the Main Base, sandwiching the Bag between the two layers. 

Stitch along the previous stitch line, leaving a 3-inch gap on one long straight edge for turning. 

Clip into your seam allowance at the curved edges. This will help your fabric lay flat. 

NOTE – Be careful not to cut into the stitching.

TIP – In order to stitch around without having to stop, begin stitching 3-inches from the bottom zipper stop.

TIP – Take your time when stitching this seam, tucking the Bag out of the way as you stitch.

Pull the Bag through the gap.

NOTE – The Bag will be inside out.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the gap left in step 4.12. Turn the end of the zipper into the gap.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

 The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat steps 4.14 to 4.15 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the pouch so that the tail is now hidden inside.

NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

Push the Lining inside your Bag, making sure to push the whole lining in and adjusting it to sit correctly. 

Your Fold Up Shopping Bag is finished!