Giant Stuffed Octopus

There are many ways to appliqué. We are leaving the edges raw in this tutorial, and then stitching down. If you have a preferred method, please use this. Alternatively, there are four options below to choose from.

TIP – Use an open toe foot as it allows you to see where you are stitching.

This is the quickest and easiest method of appliqué. Use your machine’s default applique setting if it has one.

Apply fusible webbing to the back of the fabric appliqué.

TIP – Use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest you place a pressing cloth between the fabric and your iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.

Place the appliqué onto the fabric as desired. Press.

Starting on a straight edge, align the edge of the fabric with the middle of the foot. 

OPTIONAL: Pull the bobbin thread to the top. This helps prevent a nest from forming on the bottom of the fabric.

Holding both threads taut, stitch around the edge of the appliqué using ⅛ inch seam allowance. 

When you have finished stitching around the appliqué, lift the needle and pull the fabric away until there is approximately 2-inch tail of thread. Clip the thread.

Pull all the thread to the wrong side of the fabric. Tie the threads into a knot. Repeat to tie a second knot. Clip off the extra thread.

A narrow zig zag stitch is almost an invisible stitch that secures the edges of the applique. Choose a longer stitch length between 0.5 and 1.5, and a narrower stitch width between 0.7 and 1.5. Decide which stitch length you prefer and write them down

Apply fusible webbing to the back of the fabric applique.

TIP – Use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest you place a pressing cloth between the fabric and your iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.

Place the applique onto the fabric as desired. Press.

Starting on a straight edge, align the edge of the fabric with the middle of the foot. 

OPTIONAL: Pull the bobbin thread to the top. This helps prevent a nest from forming on the bottom of the fabric.

Holding both threads taut, stitch along the edge of the appliqué.

The right swing of the needle will be on the background fabric just on the outside of the applique. 

On the left swing of the needle, the needle will land just inside of the appliqué.

Repeat steps 2.5 to 2.7 around the appliqué. 

When you have finished stitching around the appliqué, lift the needle and pull the fabric away until there is approximately 2-inch tail of thread. Clip the thread.

Pull all the thread to the wrong side of the fabric. Tie the threads into a knot. Repeat to tie a second knot. Clip off the extra thread.

TIP – When turning around the appliqué, the needle needs to be on the right swing and on the outside of the appliqué.

A satin stitch is a zig zag stitch that is close together, so you are unable to see the background fabric. If your machine has a satin stitch setting, select that setting. The ideal stitch settings are stitch length 0.2 to 0.5, and stitch width between 2.0 to 4.0. Decide which setting you prefer and write them down.

Apply fusible webbing to the back of the fabric applique.

TIP – Use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest you place a pressing cloth between the fabric and your iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.

Place the applique onto the fabric as desired. Press.

Starting on a straight edge, align the edge of the fabric with the middle of the foot. 

OPTIONAL: Pull the bobbin thread to the top. This helps prevent a nest from forming on the bottom of the fabric.

Holding both threads taut, stitch along the edge of the appliqué.

The right swing of the needle will be on the background fabric just on the outside of the appliqué. 

On the left swing of the needle, the needle will land as far inside of the appliqué as you’ve set the stitch width to be.

Repeat steps 3.5 to 3.7 around the appliqué. 

When you have finished stitching around the appliqué, lift the needle and pull the fabric away until there is approximately 2-inch tail of thread. Clip the thread.

Pull all the thread to the wrong side of the fabric. Tie the threads into a knot. Repeat to tie a second knot. Clip off the extra thread.

TIP – When turning around the appliqué or pivoting at a corner on an outside curve, the needle needs to be on the right swing and on the outside of the appliqué.

TIP – When turning or pivoting on an inside curve, the needle needs to be on the left swing and the inside of the appliqué. 

The blanket stitch is a straight stitch with a perpendicular stitch along the side. If your machine has a blanket stitch setting, select that setting. Many machines have more than one blanket stitch option. The ideal stitch settings are stitch length 2.0 to 3.3 and stitch width between 2.0 to 3.6. Decide which setting you prefer and write them down.

Apply fusible webbing to the back of the fabric appliqué.

TIP – Use the manufacturer’s instructions for ironing in place. We would also suggest you place a pressing cloth between the fabric and your iron to protect your iron. Occasionally the glue used in the interfacing can leak out and can mark your iron. If you do not have a pressing cloth, a clean, thin tea towel or scrap of 100% cotton can suffice.

Place the appliqué onto the fabric as desired. Press.

Starting on a straight edge, align the edge of the fabric with the middle of the foot. 

OPTIONAL: Pull the bobbin thread to the top. This helps prevent a nest from forming on the bottom of the fabric.

Holding both threads taut, stitch along the edge of the appliqué.

The right swing of the needle will be on the background fabric just on the outside of the appliqué. 

TIP – The goal is to have the outside, or right needle, “hug” the outer edge of the appliqué.

On the left swing of the needle, the perpendicular stitch will land in the appliqué. 

TIP – When you need to pivot the appliqué to stitch around a curve or pivot at a corner, the needle needs to be on the right swing on the outside of the applique. Don’t pivot while on the left swing, doing so will create a “v” stitch back to the outer edge of the applique rather than the desired straight blanket stitch.

Repeat steps 4.5 to 4.7 around the appliqué. 

When you have finished stitching around the appliqué, lift the needle and pull the fabric away until there is approximately 2-inch tail of thread. Clip the thread.

Pull all the thread to the wrong side of the fabric. Tie the threads into a knot. Repeat to tie a second knot. Clip off the extra thread.

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailor’s chalk.

OPTIONAL Fusible Webbing

If you are using this method, trace the pattern pieces onto the paper side of the fusible webbing.

Iron the fusible webbing to your fabric, making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Cut around the traced shape so you now have fabric the correct size with fusible webbing on one side.

The pattern pieces which use this are the Eye Color (choose shape option A or B), Pupil, the Mouth, and the Cheeks. You can mix and match any, all, or none of these pieces.

If you are not adding Suckers skip to step 2.

If you are adding individual Suckers (e.g. die cuts, buttons, individual pompoms, bobbles, soft hair ties or similar), sew these on now either by hand or by machine as desired. Make sure to leave a ½ inch seam allowance all the way around the Tentacle. Then skip to step 2.

If you are adding pompom trim for your Suckers, follow below.

Fold one Bottom Tentacle in half along its length to get the center point and press lightly to make a gentle fold. 

Unfold the Bottom Tentacle and mark the fold with a disappearing fabric marker or tailors chalk (or use pins if you don’t have either of those).

Fold the Head edge at the pattern markings, right sides together. Press lightly to make a gentle fold.

Mark the fold with a disappearing fabric marker or tailors chalk.

Measure ½ inch in from the raw edge either side of the Tentacle and mark with a disappearing fabric marker or tailors chalk. Mark the two long ends from the pattern markings downwards. These are the seam allowance lines.

Place a strip of pompom trim 29.5 inches (75cm) long down onto the right side of the Bottom Tentacle in the center.

Start the strip at the fold near the body end and run it all the way along the marked centerline. Pin.

Stitch in place.

NOTE – Depending on your presser foot and your pompom trim type, you may need to use a zipper foot to get close enough to stitch easily.

TIP – You want the pompoms in the center of the Tentacle when it’s finished. So, if the tape is off to one side, align the tape so the pompoms are running down this centerline. Here you will see I have aligned my tape, so it is off to one side slightly, and my pompoms are on top of the blue tailors chalk centerline.

Place a second strip of pompom trim 27.5 inches (70cm) long onto the right side of the Bottom Tentacle.

It should start at the same fold near the head end and run parallel to the first strip. Place it so it is halfway between the first strip and the ½ inch seam allowance lines. It should start straight and then curve inwards towards the end of the Tentacle. Pin.

Stitch in place.

TIP – The pompoms should be halfway between the centerline and the seam allowance (not the pompom tape). Make sure to check you align the pompoms at this halfway point.

Repeat steps 1.6 to 1.7 to stitch the third and final strip of pompom trim onto the other side of the centerline.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.9 for the remaining seven Bottom Tentacle pieces. 

If you are applying hook & loop tape to the ends of the tentacles, follow below, otherwise skip to step 3.

 NOTE – The point of the hook and loop tape is only for play purposes. It is so the child can attach the Tentacles to each other and create all kinds of fun shapes. If the child it is intended for does not like the sensory feel of hook & loop tape, or it is not suitable, do not attach this and skip to step 3.

Cut your hook & loop tape into 4 lengths of 1.5 inches.

You should now have 4x 1.5 inch long hook (scratchy) pieces, and 4x 1.5 inch long loop (furry) pieces.

Place a hook piece onto the end of a Bottom Tentacle. 

It should be placed so it runs along the Tentacles length and starts 1 inch in from the end of the Tentacle. Pin.

Stitch in place.

Repeat step 2.2 to attach the remaining three hook pieces to the bottom end of three Bottom Tentacles.

Repeat step 2.2 to attach each of the loop pieces onto the remaining four Bottom Tentacles.

You should now have 1x piece of hook tape on 4 of the Bottom Tentacles, and 1x piece of loop tape on the other 4 Bottom Tentacles.

Place one Top Tentacle right side up.

Place a Side Tentacle right side up on one side of the top of the Top Tentacle.

The diagonal end of the Side Tentacle should be next to the Top Tentacle.

Flip the Side Tentacle over onto the Top Tentacle.

Place the Side Tentacle so it forms a small V at the top raw edges with the Top Tentacle. The point of the V should be ½ inch from the edge. This means that when you open the seam out later, the top edges will be exactly aligned. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. Start stitching at the pattern marking (½ inch from the top raw edge of the Top Tentacle), stitching all the way down to the end of the narrow edge on the Side Tentacle.

Flip the Side Tentacle right side up. Press the seam towards the Side Tentacle.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.4 to attach a mirror image Side Tentacle to the other side of the Top Tentacle. 

Both Side Tentacles should have the top ½ inch unstitched. You may notice the Side Tentacle fabric starting to take a 3D shape, this is correct.

Place one Bottom Tentacle right side down on top of the Top Tentacle.

Align them so they match at the curved end of the Tentacles (this curved edge is the same on both the Bottom Tentacle and Top Tentacle).

The Top Tentacle will end ½ inch past the pattern markings on the Bottom Tentacle. They will not be the same width or shape anywhere else.

Pin or clip the two pieces together at the curved end where they match. Continue pinning along the two long sides.

The Top Tentacle is wider than the Bottom Tentacle so it will bubble outwards as you pin the sides together. Where the Side Tentacles have been attached to the Top Tentacles, it will be even wider.

If you have done the pompom trim or attached any other sucker options, push them into the middle so they are out of the way of the seam allowance.

Starting at the pattern marking on the Bottom Tentacle (½ inch from the end of the Bottom Tentacle), stitch along one long side of the Tentacle, around the end and up the other side, stopping at the pattern marking.

TIP – Stitch with the Top Tentacle on top and the Bottom Tentacle underneath on your sewing machine. That way you can keep an eye out for the seam with the Side Tentacle.

NOTE – The top ½ inch of the Bottom Tentacle will not be stitched down.

NOTE – Make sure as you stitch past the join between the Side Tentacle and Top Tentacle, that the end of the seam stays inside the seam allowance (this avoids a hole).

Trim the seam allowance to neaten.

Along the curved end, we need to reduce bulk. You can either do this by making small triangle snips into the fabric every ½ to 1 inch or use pinking shears.

NOTE – Do not trim the top ½ inch of fabric you left unstitched in step 3.8.

Do not turn the Tentacle right sides out yet.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.9 for all other Tentacles.

If you are embroidering the eyes, stitch this as you prefer now and skip to step 4.3. Otherwise follow below to attach fabric eyes.

If you are using fusible webbing, peel the backing off and iron one Eye Color piece onto the center of one of the Eyes now. OPTIONAL – Stitch in place to secure once the fabric has cooled.

If you are using regular fabric, stitch one of the Eye Color pieces onto the center of one of the Eyes now.

NOTE – If you are using non-fraying fabric, you can use any stitch you prefer for this. If you are using fabric that frays, use your preferred method of appliqué. 

NOTE – You can use either OPTION A or B Eye Color.

If you are adding a Pupil to your Eye, follow below. 

If you do not wish to add a Pupil, skip to step 4.3.

OPTIONAL Pupil – Repeat step 4.1 to attach a Pupil to the center of the Eye Color. 

Place the second Eyepiece (plain) right sides together with the Eyepiece which has the Pupil & Eye Color attached to it. Pin.

NOTE – The plain Eye piece will be the Eye lining.

Stitch all the way around the Eyes using a ¼ inch seam allowance (not ½ inch).

Either trim the seam allowance approximately in half using pinking shears, or snip small triangles into the seam allowance approximately every ½ inch so that the fabric has less bulk when you turn it through.

Pull the Eye Lining away from the Eye. 

Using the point of your scissors only, carefully snip into the back of the Eye Lining. The goal is to make a small cut, that is roughly opposite the Eye Color. We will turn the Eye through the hole, so it only needs to be ½ – 1 inch wide.

Turn the Eye through the hole. Press.

OPTIONAL Stuffing – Lightly stuff the Eye with your stuffing, through the hole.

Lay a Head piece right side up. Place the Eye right side up, approximately in the center of the Head piece, as desired. 

NOTE – We have placed the Eye Color at a diagonal. 

Stitch close to the folded edge of the Eye. Alternatively, you could use a slip stitch to hand stitch the Eye in place.

TIP – If you are machine stitching, use a walking foot or zipper foot so the stuffing does not impact your stitching.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.9 to make and attach the other Eye. 

NOTE – If you have put the Eye Color at an angle, make sure to mirror this so you have a left and right eye.

If you are doing the OPTIONAL Eye Rim, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 6.

Lay the two Head pieces right sides up, with the left and right eyes in the correct order.

Flip one Head piece over onto the other one, right sides together. Stitch from the top point all the way down the curved edge using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Either trim the seam allowance using pinking shears or snip small notches along this seam.

Press the seam allowance open.

OPTIONAL Face – If you wish to add a Mouth and/or Cheeks, repeat step 4.1 to add these as desired.

NOTE – These pictures show only one eye option. Construction is the same for both eye options.

Fold an Eye Rim piece in half along its length, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch along both short ends, and the long edge, leaving a 2 inch gap in the center for turning.

Clip the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the Eye Rim right side out.

Stuff the Eye Rim through the gap as desired. 

This can be more firmly stuffed than the Eye, but make sure it can still be curled into a circle.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the gap. Alternatively, you can stitch the gap closed using your sewing machine.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat steps 5.7 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the Eye Rim so that the tail is now hidden inside.

NOTE – The stitches in the first picture have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

Curl the Eye Rim around the Eye on the Head piece. 

It should sit directly on top of the edge of the Eye, so it partially overlaps the edges of the Eye, and the Head.

Depending on how fully you stuffed the Eye Rim and Eye, the ends may overlap a little, or may just touch. Place the ends so they are in line with where the inside corner of the Eye Color is (pointing down towards the center base of the Head).

If you know how to hand sew, stitch the Eye Rim to the Head now in your preferred method, then skip to step 5.27. If not, continue below.

Thread a needle and tie the ends together.

Bring the needle through the wrong side of the Head fabric where the Eye Rim will go.

Pull the thread almost all the way through, then loop the needle back through the thread before the knot.

Pull taut. This will secure the thread to the fabric, hidden under the Eye Rim.

Bring the needle up through the fabric to the right side of the Head. Bring it up right next to the edge of the Eye, under where the Eye Rim will go.

Using a small stitch, loop the needle through the Head and the outside edge of the Eye Rim. Pull taut.

Repeat step 5.19 to stitch a second stitch right next to the first one.

Repeat steps 5.19 to 5.20 to stitch the outside edge of the Eye Rim all the way around the Eye.

Push the needle under the Eye Rim and bring it out right next to the inside edge of the Eye Rim.

Repeat step 5.19 to 5.21 to hand stitch the inside of the Eye Rim to the Eye.

When the Eye Rim is completely attached, bring the needle & thread to the wrong side of the Head fabric.

Make a small loop stitch behind the Eye Rim near where you pulled your needle through.

Pull your thread so it leaves a small loop.

Thread your needle back through the loop.

Pull taut. This creates a little knot. 

Repeat steps 5.21 to 5.24 to make two more little knots in the same area to secure.

Bring the needle back through to the right side of the Head, but this time bring it up right in the most stuffed section of the Eye Rim.

Pull the thread tight and snip close to the fabric (taking care not to cut the fabric).

When you snip it, the thread tail should disappear into the Eye Rim and be hidden.

Repeat steps 5.5 to 5.30 to attach the other Eye Rim to the second Head piece. 

NOTE – Make sure when you position the Eye that the placement of the Eye Color and Eye Rim are both mirrored (so you have a left and right Eye).

Place the Head right side up. Place a third Head onto it right sides together.

Align the raw edges so they match all the way down. Pin from the seam line you stitched in step 5.2 to the bottom.

Leaving the top ½ inch seam allowance unstitched, stitch from the seam line in step 5.2 to the bottom using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Do not trim the raw edges or press the seam open. Leave it unpressed and untrimmed for now.

TIP – Stitch with the already joined Head pieces on the top, and the new piece you are joining to it on the bottom. That way you will see the seam line and know exactly when to stop.

Pin the top unstitched ½ inch seam allowance out of the way.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 to attach fourth Head piece to the other side.

NOTE – Do not stitch that top ½ inch past the seam line. Do not trim or press the seam open.

Repeat steps 5.1 to 5.4 to attach two of the unused Head pieces to each other. 

Trim and press the seam allowance open.

Repeat step 6.5 to stitch the last two unused Head pieces together.

Trim and press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 to attach the pair of Head pieces from step 6.5 to one side of the Head.

Again, do not stitch past that top ½ inch line, and do not trim the seam allowances or press the seams open.

Repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 to attach the last pair of Head pieces to the other side of the Head. 

All eight Head pieces should now be attached to each other.

For all seams stitched so far, trim and clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk.

Press the seam allowances open.

TIP – Use the very tip of the iron to get into the curves.

Place the two end Head pieces right sides together and repeat steps 6.1 to 6.2 to stitch the two end Head pieces together.

The Head should now form a circle.

Carefully trim the seam allowances from this last seam and press open.

TIP – There should not be a hole at the center top of the head. If however you have a hole, stitch this closed now by either following the seam lines further up until it closes, or by stitching a straight line across the top, just above where the seam lines finish.

Turn the Head right sides out.

Lay two Tentacles right sides up. Fold down the ½ inch seam allowance of the Side Tentacles so it is away from the Bottom Tentacle pieces.

Flip one Tentacle over onto the other one so that the Upper Tentacles are right sides together.

Keep the Side Tentacle seam allowances folded down and away. Pin or clip the raw edges together along one of the diagonals.

Stitch from the seam where the Side Tentacle attaches to the Bottom Tentacle, along the diagonal to the end using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Make sure not to stitch the Side Tentacles at all. Do not stitch past the seam line where the Upper Tentacle attaches to the Side Tentacle.

Pin or clip the short straight edges of the Side Tentacles together.

Stitch between the pattern markings using a ½ inch seam allowance. This means you will start at one seam line and stop at the other seam line.

The Tentacles should now be attached to each other along the straight end of the Side Tentacles, and along the diagonal of the Bottom Tentacles.

They will still be open along the Top Tentacle.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to stitch another Tentacle along the side straight edge and Bottom diagonal edge. 

This time leave the top ½ inch unstitched on the bottom edge like we did with the top of the Head. This will be the center point where all the Tentacles join.

Repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to stitch each remaining Tentacle on in turn, leaving that top ½ inch unstitched each time.

When all eight Tentacles are attached, press all seam allowances open.

Then fold the Tentacles right sides together and repeat steps 7.1 to 7.5 to stitch the first and last Tentacle and make a circle. Press.

The seams do not need to be trimmed, however if you wish to, do this now.

Make sure the Head is right sides out and the Tentacles are wrong sides out.

Place the Head inside the Tentacles so they are right sides together.

Pin the raw edges together.

Stitch the Head to the Tentacles using a ½ inch seam allowance. Leave a gap of approximately 4-5 inches for turning somewhere towards the back of the head (opposite the Eyes).

Turn the Octopus right sides out through the gap.

If you find any small holes in your joins, either turn it back through and machine stitch closed, or hand stitch closed from the right side.

TIP – Turn one Tentacle through at a time. If you pull all of them through at once and you have attached Suckers, it can be quite bulky. Turning one through at a time and pulling the Tentacle through by gripping inside it and turning from the outside, will make it much easier!

Stuff each of the Tentacles with your stuffing.

TIP – Put small amounts into each Tentacle and push it all the way to the end of the Tentacle using something long and thin like a knitting needle or chopstick. Make sure it’s all the way to the end of the Tentacle before adding the next bit. Do not add large chunks all together or it may get stuck.

Stuff as lightly or heavily as you wish. Make sure you can move the Tentacles easily and it has the right weight & feel for what you’d like.

TIP – For Tentacles that will bend and shape easily, stuff very lightly. If you stuff these firmly, the Tentacles will stick out at an angle and will be hard to cuddle or play with.

Stuff the Head as desired.

Either machine or hand stitch the opening closed using a slip stitch.