Happy Cloud & Rainbow Pillows

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings using either tailors chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.

Trace the Face pieces onto the backing of your iron-on fusible webbing. Write what each piece is on the paper side of the fusible webbing.

NOTE – Pattern pieces should be traced with the right side of the pattern facing the backing (or mirrored).

Cut roughly around the fusible webbing for each piece. Do not cut on the lines as you will trim it later when the fusible webbing has been attached to the fabric.

Group the fusible webbing pieces into colors (e.g. put all of the oranges together, all of the greens together, and so on).

Keeping pieces grouped by color, apply the iron-on adhesive to your fabric pieces, making sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cut around each piece exactly on the lines.

Stay stitching is a line of stitches that we use around curves to prevent them from stretching while manipulating, sewing, or even wearing the garment. If you don’t do it, the Rainbow pieces are likely to stretch and then the sides of the Rainbow pillow won’t be the same size.

Stay stitch using a regular length straight stitch, staying inside the ¼ inch seam allowance, as these stitches won’t be removed.

Stay stitch the Rainbow A along the outer edge starting at one edge and continuing around to the opposite edge.
Repeat for the remaining Rainbow pieces.

Fold Rainbow A (Red/Pink) and B (Orange) in half to find the center. Mark the bottom edge of Rainbow A and the center of the top edge of Rainbow B.

Place Rainbow B onto Rainbow A right sides together, match centers. Pin.

NOTE – You are attaching the top edge of Rainbow B onto the bottom edge of Rainbow A.

Place the short straight ends right sides together. Pin.

Continue pinning together, easing the pieces together at the seam allowance.

TIP – Use lots of pins along the curves, pinning every inch or so.

Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Open the piece and press the seam up towards Rainbow A.

NOTE – Do not clip the curves.

Fold the Rainbow piece in half and mark the center of the bottom edge of Rainbow B. Fold Rainbow C (Yellow) and mark the center of the top edge.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.7 to attach the outer curved edge of Rainbow C to the inner curved edge of Rainbow B.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.7 to attach the outer curved edge of Rainbow D (Green) to the inner curved edge of Rainbow C.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.7 to attach the outer curved edge of Rainbow E (Blue) to the inner curved edge of Rainbow D.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.7 to attach the outer curved edge of Rainbow F (Purple) to the inner curved edge of Rainbow E.

Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.12 with all Rainbow pieces to create a second rainbow.

You will now have a Front and a Back.

Lay the Fabric Backing wrong side up.

Place the Backing Batting on top of the Fabric Backing.

TIP – You can tape the Backing (Fabric and Batting) to a hard, flat surface to keep it flat and smooth.

Place a Front onto the Batting right side facing up. Smooth it out flat using your hands.

Baste the three layers together using safety pins.

NOTE – Basting is a term used in quilting to temporarily hold the layers together.

TIP – If preferred, use a basting spray to baste the layers together.
Start pinning in the center of the Rainbow, in pieces C and D alternating the placement of the pins to the ends of the Rainbow. Continue towards the outer edges, smoothing towards the outer edges as needed.

Continue pinning B and E, then A and F.

Quilt as desired.

If you would like to achieve the look we have created, here is how to do it.

Starting at the center of the arch, stitch out to one side using a straight stitch. Then return to the center, secure the stitch and sew to the opposite end. Stitch each row approximately ¼ inch apart.

TIP – Use a walking foot when quilting a straight stitch.

Baste all three layers together at ¼ inch from the Rainbow outer edge.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Trim away the excess Backing from around the Rainbow.

Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.8 for the Back Rainbow.

TIP – Lay one Rainbow piece on top of the other. Trim to make them match in size.

Place two Outer Edge A (Pink) pieces right sides together, matching a short side. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 to stitch the third Outer Edge A onto the other side of the stitched piece.

Place Outer Edge B (Pink) onto Outer Edge C (Purple) right sides together, matching a short side. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open.

Repeat steps 3.1 to 3.2 to attach Outer Edge C onto the other side of Outer Edge A.

Find and mark the center of the Rainbow F and the center of Outer Edge C.

Place the Outer Edge onto the Front Rainbow right sides together, matching centers. Pin.

Pin the end of Outer Edge C ½ inch away from the straight edge on the inner curve of Rainbow F.

Continue pinning, easing it along at the seam allowance.

TIP – Alternate your pinning, moving from the center to the other side, using lots of pins as you ease the pieces together.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.8 to 3.10 on the other side.

Clip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Rotate Outer Edge B 90 degrees, matching the straight raw edge to the bottom edge of the Front. Pin.

Stitch from the inner curve, stopping 1 inch before the end of Outer Edge B, using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Repeat steps 3.12 to 3.13 to attach a straight raw edge of Outer Edge A to the bottom edge of all arches, stopping ½ inch from the edge of Rainbow A.

Rotate Outer Edge A and match the long edge to the outer edge of Rainbow F, right sides together. Pin until you reach the end of Rainbow F.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

Clip curves into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

Rotate Outer Edge A and match the remaining raw edge to the bottom edge of the Front, right sides together, overlapping the raw edge of Outer Edge C by ½ inch. Trim Outer Edge A.

Pin the bottom edge.

NOTE – The Outer Edge A will be longer than needed. Trim Outer Edge A so there is a ½ inch seam allowance left.

Place the short raw edge of Outer Edge A and C right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.

NOTE – Be careful to only stitch the two Outer Edges together, not the Front piece.

Press the seam allowance open.

Stitch the bottom edge using a ½ inch seam allowance, stitching up to the previous stitching from step 3.14.

Repeat steps 3.4 to 3.19 to attach the raw edges of the Outer Edge to the Back, leaving an 8 inch gap at the bottom on one side.

Turn the Rainbow right sides out.

Press the edges of the Rainbow.

Stuff as full as desired.

Push the stuffing to the other side, filling it as full as desired. Then continue stuffing all the way around until you reach the opening.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the bottom of the Rainbow.

Fold your fabric under by ½ inch. You will be stitching along this folded edge.

Thread your needle, tying the two thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam.

Push your needle up from the inside of the pillow to the outside, through one of the folds, pulling the thread tail completely through.Your knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from your starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam fold to create a stitch that is between ¼ – ½ inch long. When you pull the thread through, you will notice that the stitch you just made is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of your opening.

Pull the thread through so that it is taut.

Repeat these steps, pinching both sides together as you sew (this will help keep your stitching even), until you reach the end of the opening.

To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

We’ve left the stitches loose in this picture to show you what the ladder stitch looks like. You will be pulling the thread through and taut after each stitch.

TIP – Depending on much stuffing you add, the pillow can be quite full which can make it tricky to keep closed while stitching. Pin the edges together while slip stitching.

To end off you create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing your needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. If you need to reinforce the stitching repeat this step. Snip your threads.

Your Rainbow Pillow is finished!

Lay the Front Cloud piece right side facing up.

Peel the paper backing off the Eyelashes, Cheeks and Mouth.

Place the Face pieces onto the Cloud at the pattern markings.

Alternatively, if you are using fabric glue, do this as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

NOTE – Always make sure the pieces have completely cooled and the glue has dried before stitching.

Press the Face pieces using the manufacturer’s instructions.

TIP – Use a pressing cloth to protect the minky fabric.

TIP – Place a clean tea towel or scrap of quilting cotton on top of the pieces before you iron to protect your iron when using fusible webbing.

Stitch around the edges of the Face pieces using a zig zag stitch and matching thread.

NOTE – Stitching each of the pieces in place isn’t strictly required if you are using fusible webbing or fabric glue as these should hold them on their own. However, we recommend stitching as well, as it will help hold the pieces, especially as small fingers play and pull at them.

OPTIONAL TRIM – Lay the Front right side facing up. Place the trim along the outer edges with the pompoms facing inside. Start at the bottom, overlapping the ends together. Pin.

Cut any extra length off.

Baste using a ¼ inch seam allowance.

TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.

Lay the Back Cloud on top, right sides together. Pin.

Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance, leaving a 6 inch gap along the bottom edge for turning.

Clip the curves, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

NOTE – If you have used a minky fabric you may not need to clip the curves as it has some stretch in it and is not needed.

Turn right side out through the gap left in step 2.4.

Add stuffing. Evenly distributing the stuffing throughout the pillow in the curves and center as desired to fill the entire pillow.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to stitch the bottom of the Cloud Pillow.

Your Cloud Pillow is finished!