High-Waist Pencil Skirt

High-waist Pencil Skirt

Difficulty Level = Beginner

This figure hugging pencil skirt has two length options; mid-thigh and mid-calf. The mid-calf has a kick pleat at the back. There are two depths of waistband; low rise with optional elastic, which sits just above the natural waist, or high waist which sits in between the natural waist and the bust.

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Please read the full instructions before getting started.

Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.

Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!

Size Range

Womens XXS-5XL

Size Chart

This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.

Finished Measurements (Inches)

This fitted knit skirt has a super tight fit. The low rise waistband sits just above the natural waist. The high rise waistband sits in between the natural waist and the bust.

• Sizing – Sizing varies in different countries and stores, so please measure your model before picking your size. The ready-to-wear size your model normally fits into may be different from our size chart.
• Picking your size – If your measurements fall into different sizes, start with the size that corresponds to your hip measurement. Then grade out or into the correct waist and hip sizes.
  • If you fall into two different sizes for your waist and hips, print both sizes using the layers feature. Then grade between the sizes by drawing a smooth line between the appropriate waist and the appropriate hip measurement. Continue down the side seams and hem using your hip measurement size.
  • If your measurement is the exact maximum measurement in your size, you will find it fits well. However, if you measure slightly below the maximum measurement, you may need to adjust the side seams and take them in a bit. For example, for size L, the waist measurement range is 31-32 inches. If you measure 32 inches, it will fit well. If you measure 31.5 or 31 inches, you will need to bring the waist in a little at the side seams to fit it perfectly.
• Height adjustment – The dress is designed for a height of 5 foot 6 inches. If your height is above or below 5 foot 6, you can add or remove length in between the waist and hip and at the hem.
• Tummy adjustment – Follow this tutorial to adjust the waist of the skirt.
• Full Thigh adjustment – If your thigh measurement is above the maximum measurement in your size, you may find that you need a full thigh adjustment. However, if you measure below the thigh measurement in your size, you may find a small thigh adjustment beneficial. 
• Muslin – To ensure you get the best fit, I recommend you first sew a muslin to check the fit. A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. This is how I would recommend you muslin this skirt:
  • Use an inexpensive knit fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
  • Cut out the Front and Back Skirt. 
  • Label each piece with tailors chalk / fabric pen so you know what each piece is.
  • Baste these together using a ⅜ inch seam allowance.
  • Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
  • If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins until you are happy.
  • Trim your new seam allowances to ⅜ inch and pull out your basting stitches. 
  • Use these bits of fabric as your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
  • Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces… It’s like having a tailor-made garment so they’re a valuable addition to your pattern library in case you wish to make more!
• If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board. 

Fabric – Fabric needs to be a stretch / knit fabric. 2- or 4-way stretch fabric will work. Do not use a woven fabric. Suggested fabrics are – scuba, scuba crepe, ponte, cotton lycra 5%, rayon, viscose, bamboo, ITY jersey, cotton jersey, French terry, hacci sweater knit and interlock. Make sure to check the weight of your fabric to ensure it is opaque enough that you are happy with it when it is stretched slightly (some lighter weight knits can be slightly transparent or see through).

We recommend at least 20% stretch to achieve the intended fit. To check how much stretch your fabric has, take a piece of fabric, and pull along its stretch. If it allows you to stretch it at least 20% longer than its original length, then it has at least 20% stretch. i.e. A 2-inch piece of fabric (unstretched) should be able to be stretched to 2.4 inches. 

The stretch recovery of your fabric is just as important as the stretch percentage. This will ensure your skirt maintains its shape and fit for as long as possible and does not become baggy. To test the stretch recovery (elasticity), simply check that when you stretch your piece of fabric it returns back to its original size. 

Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)

* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.

You will also need:

• OPTIONAL Waist elastic for the low rise option – 1 inch wide elastic, approximately 1 yard will be sufficient for all sizes
• Thread to match

Tools needed are, sewing machine, pins, scissors, tape measure or ruler. Serger/overlocker is optional but not required.

Settings

The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.

Print at 100%.

On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.

Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.

Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.

Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!

Cut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.

Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:

Cutting Checklist: 

• Front – Fabric cut 1 on fold
• Back – Fabric cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
• High Rise or Low Rise Waistband – Fabric cut 2 on fold (1x mirror image pair)

NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges will be at a right angle to your fold.

Tips for Sewing with Knit Fabrics

Using a serger is not a necessity to sew with knit fabrics! Here are a few tips to get the best results on a regular sewing machine:

• Use a ball point needle of a size appropriate to your fabric when working with knits – The ball point needle has a slightly rounded tip and will prevent damaging the fiber. Use ball point pins or clips and, if you can’t, use regular pins into the seam allowance and you should be just fine.
• Use a stretch stitch – You can use either a short and narrow zigzag or a stretch stitch (lightning bolt stitch) for construction. Test on a scrap of fabric to find which stitch and tension settings work best for you. You don’t want the fabric to pucker under your stitches.
• Your machine might have many fancy stretch stitches and you are welcome to play with them, but often the basic zigzag or stretch stitch are just right.
• Use a walking foot – Using a walking-foot is not a necessity but it is highly recommended when working on a stretchy knit. The walking-foot helps to prevent one layer of fabric from stretching out while sewing. Both layers of fabrics are fed at the same time under your needle.
• Reduce your presser foot tension – Some machines will allow you to change your presser foot tension. Check your manual to see how to reduce your presser foot tension. Reducing tension will prevent your fabric from stretching while it goes through the machine.
• Use a ball point twin-needle (double needle) for top stitching – Using a twin-needle will give you a regular double line of straight stitches on the right side and a short and stretchy zigzag on the wrong side. Alternatively, if you don’t own a twin needle, you can use a medium size zigzag stitch for hemming and topstitching. I like to lengthen my stitch a little when top stitching with the twin needle. Test on a scrap of fabric to find what works best for you.
• Finishing the seams – Because knits don’t fray, it isn’t strictly necessary to finish your seams. That being said, you will achieve a more polished and durable look if you do an overcasting or zigzag stitch on your raw edges. 

Here is an example of some of the stitches you could use.
From left to right: Ballpoint twin-needle, narrow zigzag, stretch stitch (lightning bolt), overcasting.

⅜ inch seam allowance included – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Hem ½ inch 

Preparation – 

1. PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.

Sewing –

1. MID-CALF LENGTH: KICK PLEAT – Stitch Back pieces right sides together, along center back to end of angle of kick pleat. Finish raw edges on both sides of kick pleat. Fold edges of kick pleat ¼ inch to wrong side. Topstitch. Stitch straight down extending seam line to 2 inches below pattern marking. Lay Back wrong side up. Fold top angled edge of kick pleat to left. Pin. From right side, stitch across top angle, stitching through all layers, stitching approximately 1 inch. Skip to step 3.
2. MID-THIGH LENGTH: BACK – Stitch Back pieces right sides together, at the center back.
3. SIDE SEAMS – Stitch Back and Front right sides together, at the side seams.
4. WAISTBAND – Place Waistband pieces right sides together, at short sides. Pin. Stitch. Fold Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. OPTIONAL ELASTIC: Overlap elastic by ½ inch. Stitch. Place elastic at fold line. Find and mark quarters of Waistband and Skirt. Stitch Waistband to top edge of Skirt, right sides together, matching quarter points. Press seam down.
5. HEM – OPTIONAL: Serge hem edge. MID-CALF LENGTH: Fold kick pleat over to wrong side. Fold hem edge ½ inch wrong side. Topstitch.

Congratulations, your High-waist Pencil Skirt is done. Enjoy! 

We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!

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Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.

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