ID Wristlet

Pattern Markings

Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.

Interfacing

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, apply iron-on interfacing to all Wallet Main and Lining pieces.

Place the Main and Lining Front pieces right sides together. Align the inner edges around the ID window and outer edges.  Pin around the inner edges.

From the right side of the Main Front, push the Lining through the window.

Press until it lays smooth and flat.

Align the ID Window onto the right side of the Wallet Lining.  Pin.

NOTE – Vinyl is not self-healing, so use pins sparingly as the fewer holes put into it the better.

Press the top edge of the Main Front ¼ inch to the wrong side. This will create a memory hem for the zipper.

 NOTE – A memory hem is where you fold and press your hem, but do not actually stitch it yet. We do this so that fold lines are pressed into the wallet. It is much easier to do this now.

NOTE – Be careful if using a hot iron not to press the vinyl window as it could melt or pucker.

Repeat step 1.8 for the Front Lining.

Fold the ID Pocket in half at the markings, wrong sides together, aligning the longest edges together. Press.

Align both sides and bottom raw edges of the ID Pocket onto the Front Lining. Pin. 

If adding the OPTIONAL Keyring Loop, follow below. If not adding it, skip to step 4.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, please use this. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold the Keyring Loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

Open the Keyring Loop, then fold the two long sides into the middle and press.

Refold the Keyring Loop along the center edge, folding the raw edges to the inside.

Thread the Keyring Loop through the keyring. Fold the Keyring Loop over, matching up the short ends to form a loop. Pin. 

NOTE – A swivel clasp can be used instead of a keyring.

OPTIONAL – Stitch the two layers of the Keyring Loop together. 

TIP – Use a zipper foot to stitch as close as possible to the keyring. This will help prevent it from sliding around on the Keyring Loop.

Align the raw edges of the Keyring Loop onto the right side of the Front at the pattern marking. Pin. 

If you prefer to use optional bias binding for your Zipper Tab skip to step 4.4.

If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!

Fold the Zipper Tab in half length ways, wrong sides together, matching the long raw edges.  Press.  

TIP – Do not use a thick fabric for the Zipper Tab as it can be tricky to stitch and attach to the Zipper.

Open the Zipper Tab then fold both long raw edges to the center.  Press.

Refold along the center edge, placing all raw edges inside.  

Trim the tails of the zipper to ¼ inch from the end stops of opening end.  

NOTE – You need a 5 inch long zipper. If your zipper is too long, trim the bottom of the zipper to the correct length, and stitch a bar tack to keep the zipper from coming apart.

NOTE – A bar tack is where you do a zig zag stitch on the spot. The needle move from side to side to secure fabric. It doesn’t move. If you don’t have a bar tack stitch on your machine, use the zig zag stitch but reduce the length to 0 so it stays in place. 

Slide the zipper end between the folded edges of the Zipper Tab. Pin. 

Trim the Zipper Tab to just a little wider than the zipper tape.

Repeat steps 4.5 to 4.7 for the opposite side of the zipper. 

Find and mark the center of the zipper and the Front.

Align the center of the zipper and Front, then slide the zipper right side facing toward the ID Window, in between the memory hems created at steps 1.8 and 1.9. Pin.

 TIP – To help prevent the zipper from shifting or the fabric from distorting when sewing, use washaway sewing tape to secure the zipper.

Find and mark the centers of the other side of the zipper and Back Lining.

Lay the Back Lining right side facing up.

Take the other side of the zipper and place the zipper, right sides facing up matching the centers. Align the top raw edge of the Back Lining with the zipper tape.

Pin in place.  

Place the Back Main right side facing down, lining up the top raw edge with the zipper tape.

Pin in place.  

They will now be layered in this order: Back Lining facing up, zipper facing up, Back Main facing down.

Open the zipper all of the way.

Flip the Front on top of the Back Main so they are right sides together.

Pin together along both side edges and bottom edge. 

We will now enclose the wristlet. Flip the Back Lining onto the Front, right sides together. Pin.

NOTE – The fabrics will align along all edges.

NOTE – You will need the OPTIONAL Keyring Loop to attach the OPTIONAL Wrist Loop too.

Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.3 with the Wrist Loop piece.

Topstitch ⅛ inch along both long edges.  

Slide one end through the Swivel Clasp.

Match the two raw ends together and pin.

Fold the matched ends flat against the Wrist Loop, with the raw edges inside, pointed toward the hardware.  

Pin in place. 

Stitch a rectangle through all layers.

NOTE – There are a lot of layers in this spot. Take it slow and stitch carefully to prevent broken needles. 

Turn right side out, pulling the Main Wallet through the gap left in step 6.5. 

Press. 

TIP – Push out the corners with a blunt object, like a chopstick, so that there are crisp, sharp edges and corners.

Use a slipstitch (also called a ‘ladder stitch’) to close the gap left in step 6.5.

Thread the needle, tying the thread tail ends together in a knot. This will provide added strength to your finished seam. Push the needle up and through one of the folded seams, from the inside of the lining to the outside, pulling the thread tail completely through.

The knotted end will now be nicely concealed within the seam on the inside.

Directly across from the starting point, push the needle down and then back up through the fold on the opposite seam to create a stitch that is between ⅛ – ¼ inch long. When the thread is pulled through, the stitch is concealed within the seam crease, and there will be a horizontal stitch connecting the left and right sides of the opening.

Repeat steps 8.2 to 8.3 to the end of the opening. To tighten the stitches, gently pull the thread. This will conceal the stitches in between the seams.

To end, create a loop for your needle to pass through by picking up a tiny section of the opposite seam and passing the needle through the loop. Tighten to form a knot. Reinforce the stitching as needed by repeating this step.

Poke the needle back into the fabric next to your stitching and pull it all the way through to the other side.

Pull the thread taut and snip it close to the fabric. Allow the thread tail to slip back inside the Wallet so that the tail is now hidden inside.

NOTE – The stitches have been left loose in this picture to show what the ladder stitch looks like. Pull the thread through and taut after each stitch.

Push the Lining back inside the Main wristlet, making sure to push the whole Lining in and adjusting it to sit correctly.

If you have not added the OPTIONAL Wrist Loop and are not adding the OPTIONAL zipper pull, your ID Wristlet is finished. If you are only adding the OPTIONAL Wrist Loop, skip to step 8.9. If you are adding the OPTIONAL zipper pull, follow below.

OPTIONAL zipper pull – Cut a piece of ribbon approximately 5 inches long.  

Fold the ribbon in half, wrong sides together, matching short edges.  

Slide the folded edge through largest hole in the zipper slider. 

Pull the unfolded edges through the loop of the ribbon, creating a knot. 

Pull tightly. 

Trim the edges to neaten, straight, at an angle, or even a V.

Finish the edges to prevent fraying. You can use fray check or CAREFULLY burn the edges of the ribbon to melt them slightly.  

If you are adding the OPTIONAL Wrist Loop, follow below. If you are not adding the OPTIONAL Wrist Loop, your ID Wristlet is finished!

OPTIONAL Wrist Loop – Attach the swivel clasp of the Wrist Loop to the Keyring Loop.