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Home / Womens / Garments, Skirts
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
12
Isabella
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Equipment Needed
Description
This boho maxi skirt sewing pattern is a-line style and slight tiers with lace insets, waistband gathers and optional pockets. The beautiful skirt is floor length with an elasticated waistband making it easy to sew and easy to wear.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes XXS-5XL.
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- +Preparation
- Picking your size – Pick your size according to your waist measurement (not your hips or height).
- Height adjustment – If you are taller or shorter than the height for your size, you will need to adjust the length. Do this by adding or removing inches at the hips.
- Muslin – I recommend sewing a muslin (test garment) first so you can get the perfect fit:
- Use a woven fabric similar in weight to the final fabric you plan to use.
- Baste all the pieces together using a ½ inch seam allowance.
- Try on. If you are happy with the fit, continue to your final garment.
- If you feel the fit needs adjusting for your personal shape, turn the muslin inside out and try on again. Adjust the seams with pins/clips until you are happy.
- If your waistband is too loose, shorten your elastic.
- Trim your new seam allowances to ½ of an inch and pull out your basting stitches.
- These resulting pieces are your pattern pieces instead of the original pattern pieces. Continue to sew your final garment.
- Make sure to keep your adjusted pattern pieces in case you wish to make more!
- If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- 1 inch wide Elastic – see cut chart below for lengths
- Interfacing – half a yard will be enough for all sizes. For medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give more structure.
- OPTIONAL Bias binding – If you are following the sewing machine option and not using a serger/overlocker, you will need bias tape to enclose the gathered hem where the Ruffle attaches. You can either use store bought bias tape or make your own using the instructions in our free DIY bias tape tutorial. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line.
- Thread to match
- The skirt is designed to be cut with the grainline running vertically down the pattern piece. For most pattern pieces, grainlines are really important, and I would not suggest altering them. However, this design hangs straight with no bias cut or draping sections. If you are using a woven fabric or a knit/stretch with good recovery and less than 50% stretch, you can safely turn the pattern piece so it runs down the fabric (e.g. the grainline runs across the pattern piece) without altering the look of the finished garment or compromising the fit. Before cutting, hold your fabric up in this direction and check if you like how it hangs.
- Alternatively, if you are using a fabric this does not work with (for example a 4-way knit fabric that stretches as it hangs & moves), you can split your skirt pattern pieces. To do this, divide the pattern piece in half and cut with 2 mirror image pieces. Make sure to add a ½ inch seam allowance to the center front. Then join this either with a French seam or sew and then finish with a serger.
- Skirt – Cut 2 on fold
- Front Waistband – Cut 1
- Back Waistband – Cut 1
- Lace Tier – Cut 2
- Ruffle – Cut 2 on fold
- OPTIONAL Pocket – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs)
Project OverviewIsabella Skirt
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Isabella is a beautiful A-line shaped skirt which gathers into the waist. The elasticated back creates a great fit at the waist, but with enough room to move at the hips. The tiers at the bottom of the skirt add a fun flair, ending in a ruffle. Mix the tiers up with different fabrics or add some lace and your Isabella will truly be a one of a kind.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Skirt length
Waist
Waistband height
Hem circumference
Without elastic
With elastic
Regular
Tall
XXS
39.0
31.3
23.0
1.5
2.5
62.5
XS
39.0
34.0
25.0
1.5
2.5
67.5
S
39.0
35.0
26.0
1.5
2.5
70.0
M
39.0
37.5
28.0
1.5
2.5
75.0
L
39.0
40.0
30.0
1.5
2.5
80.0
XL
39.0
44.0
33.0
1.5
2.5
87.5
XXL
39.0
47.5
36.0
1.5
2.5
95.0
3XL
39.0
52.5
40.0
1.5
2.5
105.0
4XL
39.0
57.5
44.0
1.5
2.5
115.0
5XL
39.0
62.5
48.0
1.5
2.5
125.0
Fitting NotesThe skirt is gathered at the waist and is very full.
Materials and ToolsYou will need light to medium weight woven fabric for the skirt, ruffle, and ‘lace’ tier (e.g. cotton, linen, taffeta, crepe de chine, rayon). However, you can use a lace or similar fabric for the ruffle and/or lace tier.
The skirt is very full so heavier fabrics will not work as they will pull, and the waistband will not sit correctly.
You can use a knit/stretch fabric for the skirt if you wish, however you will need to either use a contrasting woven fabric for the front waistband, or if you wish to use the same stretch fabric, use a medium/heavy weight interfacing on the front waistband to stop it stretching. It is also a good idea with knit/stretch fabrics to hang your nearly completed skirt for a few days after step 3, before hemming. That way the fabric can rest, and you can adjust your hem length to ensure the skirt is the length you wish.
If the pattern pieces do not fit across either 45 inch / 115cm or 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric for your size, and it is a woven fabric there are a few other options you could follow. See the Cutting Instruction for how to deal with these.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Fabric
Lace
Ruffle
XXS – S
2.00
0.50
N/A
M
2.00
0.50
N/A
L – XL
2.25
0.50
N/A
XXL – 5XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Fabric
Lace
Ruffle
XXS – S
1.75
0.50
0.75
M
2.00
0.50
0.75
L – XL
2.00
0.50
N/A
XXL – 5XL
2.00
0.50
N/A
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins, or clips, cutting mat, tape measure.
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Skirt OPTIONAL Pocket XXS 2-5, 8-10, 12, 14-16, 18-21, 24-26 13 XS – L 2-5, 8-10, 12, 14-16, 18-21, 23-26 13 XL 2-6, 8-10, 12, 14-16, 18-21, 23-26 13 XXL 2-6, 8-12, 14-26 13 3XL – 5XL 2-12, 14-26, 28 13 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Skirt OPTIONAL Pocket XXS – XS 2-4, 6-11, 13-18, 21-25 30 S – L 2-4, 6-11, 13-18, 20-25 30 XL 2-4, 6-11, 13-18, 20-25, 28-29 30 XXL 2-26, 28-29 30 3XL – 4XL 2-29 30 5XL 2-29, 31-32 30 Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
Skirt (Cut 2)
Lace Tier (Cut 2)
Ruffle (Cut 2)
Front Waistband (Cut 1)
Width
Height (use either regular or tall option)
Width
Length
Width
Length
Width
Length
Regular
Tall
XXS
32.2
28.1
32.2
5.1
48.4
9.2
13.5
4.0
6.0
XS
35.0
28.1
35.0
5.1
52.2
9.2
14.5
4.0
6.0
S
36.2
28.1
36.2
5.1
54.2
9.2
15.0
4.0
6.0
M
39.0
28.1
38.4
5.1
58.2
9.2
16.0
4.0
6.0
L
41.0
28.1
41.0
5.1
60.2
9.2
17.0
4.0
6.0
XL
45.0
28.1
45.0
5.1
67.2
9.2
18.5
4.0
6.0
XXL
48.6
28.1
48.4
5.1
73.0
9.2
20.0
4.0
6.0
3XL
54.0
28.1
53.4
5.1
80.2
9.2
22.0
4.0
6.0
4XL
58.6
28.1
58.4
5.1
88.0
9.2
24.0
4.0
6.0
5XL
60.2
28.1
60.2
5.1
90.2
9.2
26.0
4.0
6.0
Back Waistband (Cut 1)
Width
Height (use either regular or tall option)
1-inch Elastic
(Regular Cut 1/Tall Cut 2)Regular
Tall
Regular
Tall
XXS
19.75
4.00
6.00
11.50
11.50
XS
21.25
4.00
6.00
12.50
12.50
S
22.00
4.00
6.00
13.00
13.00
M
23.50
4.00
6.00
14.00
14.00
L
25.00
4.00
6.00
15.00
15.00
XL
27.25
4.00
6.00
16.50
16.50
XXL
29.50
4.00
6.00
18.00
18.00
3XL
32.50
4.00
6.00
20.00
20.00
4XL
35.50
4.00
6.00
22.00
22.00
5XL
38.50
4.00
6.00
24.00
24.00
Cutting Checklist:
If you find some of your pattern pieces do not fit across your width of fabric. You have two choices:
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer all pattern markings.
- INTERFACING – Iron interfacing onto the Front Waistband.
- OPTIONAL POCKETS – Sew Pocket in place with a French seam, ideally placing the Pocket 1 inch below the top of the skirt.
- ATTACHING LACE TIER – Pin the Main Skirt Tier to the Lace Tier wrong sides together. Sew a French seam. OPTIONAL – Iron the seam up away from the Lace Tier. Repeat for the other Main Skirt Tier and the Lace Tier.
- SIDE SEAMS – NO POCKET OPTION – With wrong sides together pin and sew down the side seam. Continue with a French seam. POCKET OPTIONS – Pin the right sides together, matching up the pockets and the bottom of the skirt. Pin and start sewing at the top of the skirt. Sew
- RUFFLE – Put ruffle strips wrong sides together and sew using a French seam to join ruffle into a circle. Turn the hem under ¼ inch, then another ¼ inch, press, pin and topstitch. Gather the top of the Ruffle
- ATTACH THE RUFFLE – Quarter the Ruffle and then quarter the hemline of the Skirt. Place the right sides together matching the quarter points, pin. Gently gather each quarter of the ruffle then sew and remove gathering stitches. Trim Ruffle seam, then finish the seam with a serger or bias binding.
- WAISTBAND – Pin the Front Waistband and Back Waistband together at the side seam, sew. Repeat on the other side of the waistband. Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise wrong sides together, press. Fold the raw edge under ½ inch.
- ATTACH WAISTBAND – Sew gathering stitches, then find the center points of the Waistband. Mark the center points of the Skirt. Place the Waistband and Skirt right sides together, match the center points and side seams, pin. Gather the skirt so it fits the Waistband, sew and remove gathering stitches.
- BACK WAISTBAND – Press seam allowance up. Fold the Waistband in half, wrong sides together and pin. With Skirt right side up, start sewing at Left side seam along the back waist seam only. ALTERNATIVE: Topstitch on the actual waistband. OPTIONAL: To help elastic sit better, topstitch along the top edge all the way around the Waistband. REGULAR WAISTBAND- Skip to step 9. HIGH WAISTBAND – Sew evenly on the top edge and Skirt seam of the Back Waistband, creating two channels for elastic. Thread elastic into the channel on the Back Waistband. Stitch in the ditch and pin along the opposite waistband seam. FIT CHECK – Try the skirt on, adjust the elastic so it’s comfortable. Secure the elastic on the opposite side seam. Close the Front Waistband opening.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) – Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
½ inch seam allowance included (¼ then ¼ for French seams) - Top stitching ⅛ inch – Basting ¼ inch – Hem ½ inch
0.1Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings to the fabric using a disappearing ink pen or tailors chalk.
0.2Interfacing
Fuse a strip of interfacing to the wrong side of the Front Waistband.
1 . Optional Pockets1.3Flip the Pocket out and press the seam well.
1.6Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.5 on the other side of the Front Skirt piece, as well as both sides of the Back Skirt piece.
NOTE – Check that the Pockets match up at equal distances from the top, and that you’ve used mirror image pairs on the Front and Back.
2 . Attaching Lace Tier2.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat possible. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of the fold.
2.4Pin and stitch again ¼ inch from the edge, press. This will encase the raw edges so that they are not seen (a French seam).
Press the seam up, away from the Lace Tier.
3 . Side Seams3.2POCKETS OPTION – Place your Front and Back pieces, wrong sides together, matching up the Pockets and the top and bottom of the Skirt. Pin the side seam.
3.5Flip the Skirt so that the right sides are now together. Press well. Match up the top and bottoms of the Skirt (and if you have done them, the top and bottoms of the Pockets).
4 . Ruffle4.3Turn the Ruffle inside out, so that the right sides are together and press the side seams.
Pin and stitch again approximately ¼ inch from the edge. This will encase the raw edges so they are not seen them (a French seam).
4.4Press the seam to one side.
4.5Turn the hem on the bottom of the Ruffle under ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Fold the hem another ¼ inch, press, pin and stitch in place.
ROLLED HEM OPTION – A rolled hem is another option, instead of doing a turned under seam. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the machine to do a rolled hem.
4.6Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of the Ruffle.
Stitch the first row of gathering stitches ¼ inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch the second row of gathering stitches ¾ inch from the edge.
To do this, set the sewing machine to a gather or basting stitch. If the machine does not have these stitches, use a regular straight stitch and lengthen it to the longest stitch length possible with no backstitch (also called a locking stitch) at the beginning or end. Try it on a scrap of fabric first and check that after stitching, the threads can easily be removed by pulling on them. Depending on the machine, the bobbin tension may need to be loosened.
TIP – Stitch in the same direction for both rows of stitches (e.g. clockwise or counterclockwise). It does not matter which direction as long as both lines of stitches go the same way. This will make gathering a lot easier.
5 . Attach the Ruffle5.1Fold the Ruffle in half lengthwise and then in half again. Place pins through the ruffle to mark the halfway and quarter points. The Ruffle is now a circular piece that is equally divided equally into four sections.
Fold the hemline of the Skirt in half to find the center points and mark with pins.
5.2With the right sides together, place the Ruffle upside down over the hem of the Skirt. Pin the Ruffle to the Skirt at the side seams and at the center points.
Find the top two threads around the top of the Ruffle. Gently pull on both threads equally to gather that section of the Ruffle.
Continue to gather the Ruffle until it sits flat against the hem of the Skirt. Gently ease the gathered ruffle across the section so that it is even. Repeat for each section of the Skirt and pin in place.
5.3Stitch in between the two rows of gathering stitches.
5.4Remove the gathering stitches by gently pulling the ends of gathering thread so that they come all the way through the ruffle. Find the thread from the underside of the ruffle and pull this out too.
TIP – Pulling too hard may cause the thread to snap. When this happens, just pull the other end and the rest of the thread should come out there.
5.5Carefully trim the raw edges so that there are no loose threads and it is even and neat.
5.6To finish the seams between the Ruffle and Lace tiers, you can either do a zigzag stitch or use an overlock stitch.
If you wish to do either of these, do this now and skip to step 6.
Alternatively, for a really neat edge that doesn’t require a serger, you can bind using bias tape as follows:
If you are using single fold bias binding or tape, press it in half lengthways so it looks like the photo.
If you are using double fold bias binding, it will already look like the right hand photo and you can skip this step.
5.7Open out the fold on one side of your bias tape and press one short side under ¼ inch and press.
5.8Align the fold on the right side of your bias tape with the seam on the wrong side of the Lace Tier and on the Ruffle side of the seam. Don’t align the edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of the Ruffle. Keep the fold of the bias tape aligned with the seam on the Ruffle.
5.9Pin the bias tape all the way along the seam line of the Ruffle and overlap the bias where you started off about ½ inch.
Trim the excess bias tape.
5.10Stitch in place by stitching along the ¼” fold on the bias tape. Your stitching should be directly on top of the ruffle seam.
5.11Fold the bias over the seam and pin to enclose all raw edges.
5.13OPTIONAL – From the right side, topstitch around the ruffle ¼ inch from the seam so that it lays flat against the garment.
6 . Waistband6.1With the right sides together, pin the Front Waistband to the Back Waistband at the side seam.
6.3Repeat steps 6.1 and 6.2 for the other side.
NOTE – The Waistband will now be in a circle. The Back Waistband is much longer than the Front Waistband. It will not fit on the waist yet. This is correct.
6.4Press the seams towards the back.
6.5Fold the Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.
TIP – If you have used directional fabric, make sure this is the top edge.
6.6Fold the raw edge ½ inch. Press.
7 . Attach Waistband7.1Stitch two rows of gathering stitches around the top of the Skirt using the same method as in step 4.6.
7.2Open the Waistband. Find the center points of the Waistband (non-pressed edge) and mark with a pin or fabric marker.
Mark the center points at the top of the Skirt.
7.3Slip the Waistband (wrong side facing up) over the right side of the Skirt inside the Waistband, with the edge that is not ironed at the top. Put the right sides together. The skirt should be right side out and the Waistband should be wrong side out. Match the side seams and center points and pin together.
Starting at a side seam, find a pair of bobbin threads and very gently pull on both equally to gather the Skirt. Gather all the way across the section you are working on until the Skirt in that section fits the Waistband.
Spread the gathering out gently with your fingers so it looks evenly gathered. Then move on to the next quarter and so on until the whole Skirt has been gathered and now fits the Waistband.
NOTE – The Skirt will still look too wide at this point. Don’t worry, the Waistband does not need to be gathered. When the elastic is inserted in the Back Waistband, it will become the correct size. The Front Waistband is flat so the Skirt will be more gathered in the front.
7.5Remove the gathering stitches.
8 . Back Waistband8.1Fold the Waistband down in half with the wrong sides together and pin to the seam between the Skirt and Waistband. Make sure that the raw edges are folded upwards towards the Waistband so that they are all caught inside when you pin the Waistband down. The raw edges should all be hidden.
TIP – When folding the waistband down, make sure to place the folded edge (the one pressed in step 6.6) so it is just below the seam between the skirt and waistband. That way when you do step 8.3, both sides of the Waistband will get caught in the stitching. Do this by overlapping it by approximately ⅛ inch.
TIP – Pin from the right side of the Skirt directly along the seam between the Skirt and the Waistband. Keep flipping it over to check.
NOTE – This step is done only on the BACK Waistband. Do not pin or stitch the Front Waistband yet.
8.2With the Skirt right side up, start at the LEFT side seam and stitch along the BACK waist seam only, where the Skirt meets the Waistband.
Stitch slowly and hold the Waistband and fabric flat on either side of the presser foot to help get the stitch right into the crease so it is not visible on the finished Skirt. Lift the Skirt up occasionally and check that the other side of the Waistband is caught in the stitching.
NOTE – This is called ‘stitching in the ditch’, where the stitching is done exactly on top of a previous seam. The stitching will not be easily visible in the finished garment and will just catch the other side of the waistband in the stitching, so the raw edges are all hidden, and the Back Waistband is completed.
TIP – If using a contrasting fabric for the Waistband, change the bobbin thread to match it before stitching.
ALTERNATIVE – Topstitch on the actual waistband (approximately ⅛ inch from the crease). The stitching will be more visible, but it is definitely much easier!
OPTIONAL – To help the elastic sit better in the waistband also topstitch along the top edge all the way around the Waistband. This will give a little paper bag type effect at the top of the Waistband where the fabric will puff out a bit when wearing it.
8.3REGULAR WAISTBAND – Skip to step 8.4.
HIGH WAISTBAND – Stitch a seam evenly spaced between the top edge and Skirt seam of the Back Waistband, creating two channels for where the elastic is going to go in the next step.
8.4Thread the elastic into the channel on the Back Waistband, leaving ½ inch of elastic sticking out.
NOTE – For the regular Waistband, there will only be one channel and one piece of elastic. For the high Waistband, there will be two channels and two pieces of elastic.
TIP – To thread the elastic, pin one end of the elastic to the Skirt so it does not slip inside. Then put a safety pin on the other end and thread it through using the safety pin to guide the elastic.
8.5Secure the elastic at the side seam, by stitching “in the ditch” of the side seam.
To stitch in the ditch for this step, stitch on top of the line where the Front and Back Waistbands join. Continue to thread the elastic through. Pin at the opposite waistband seam.
8.6FIT CHECK – Try the skirt on and adjust the elastic so it is comfortable. Secure the elastic at the opposite side seam in the same way as step 8.5 by stitching in the ditch.
TIP – When using a heavier weight fabric, and/or one of the larger sizes, the weight of the fabric may stretch the elastic enough that the Waistband sags. If possible, try the Skirt on and shorten the elastic, before continuing to the next step.
8.7Repeat step 8.2. to stitch the Front Waistband.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Isabella is done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpisabella.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewIsabella Skirt
Difficulty Level = Beginner
Isabella is a beautiful A-line shaped skirt which gathers into the waist. The elasticated back creates a great fit at the waist, but with enough room to move at the hips. The tiers at the bottom of the skirt add a fun flair, ending in a ruffle. Mix the tiers up with different fabrics or add some lace and your Isabella will truly be a one of a kind.
SizingSize Range
Womens XXS-5XL
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width to achieve the intended fit.
Chest
Waist
Hips
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
Inches
CM
XXS
31.0
79.0
25.0
63.5
34.0
86.0
XS
33.0
84.0
27.0
68.5
36.0
91.5
S
35.0
89.0
28.0
71.0
38.0
96.5
M
37.0
94.0
30.0
76.0
40.0
101.5
L
39.0
99.0
32.0
81.0
42.0
106.5
XL
42.0
106.5
35.0
89.0
45.0
114.0
XXL
45.0
114.0
38.0
96.5
48.0
122.0
3XL
48.0
122.0
42.0
106.5
51.0
129.5
4XL
51.0
129.5
46.0
117.0
54.0
137.0
5XL
54.0
137.0
50.0
127.0
57.0
145.0
Finished Measurements (Inches)
Skirt length
Waist
Waistband height
Hem circumference
Without elastic
With elastic
Regular
Tall
XXS
39.0
31.3
23.0
1.5
2.5
62.5
XS
39.0
34.0
25.0
1.5
2.5
67.5
S
39.0
35.0
26.0
1.5
2.5
70.0
M
39.0
37.5
28.0
1.5
2.5
75.0
L
39.0
40.0
30.0
1.5
2.5
80.0
XL
39.0
44.0
33.0
1.5
2.5
87.5
XXL
39.0
47.5
36.0
1.5
2.5
95.0
3XL
39.0
52.5
40.0
1.5
2.5
105.0
4XL
39.0
57.5
44.0
1.5
2.5
115.0
5XL
39.0
62.5
48.0
1.5
2.5
125.0
Materials and ToolsYou will need light to medium weight woven fabric for the skirt, ruffle, and ‘lace’ tier (e.g. cotton, linen, taffeta, crepe de chine, rayon). However, you can use a lace or similar fabric for the ruffle and/or lace tier.
The skirt is very full so heavier fabrics will not work as they will pull, and the waistband will not sit correctly.
You can use a knit/stretch fabric for the skirt if you wish, however you will need to either use a contrasting woven fabric for the front waistband, or if you wish to use the same stretch fabric, use a medium/heavy weight interfacing on the front waistband to stop it stretching. It is also a good idea with knit/stretch fabrics to hang your nearly completed skirt for a few days after step 3, before hemming. That way the fabric can rest, and you can adjust your hem length to ensure the skirt is the length you wish.
If the pattern pieces do not fit across either 45 inch / 115cm or 60 inch / 150cm wide fabric for your size, and it is a woven fabric there are a few other options you could follow. See the Cutting Instruction for how to deal with these.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Fabric
Lace
Ruffle
XXS – S
2.00
0.50
N/A
M
2.00
0.50
N/A
L – XL
2.25
0.50
N/A
XXL – 5XL
N/A
N/A
N/A
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Fabric
Lace
Ruffle
XXS – S
1.75
0.50
0.75
M
2.00
0.50
0.75
L – XL
2.00
0.50
N/A
XXL – 5XL
2.00
0.50
N/A
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- 1 inch wide Elastic – see cut chart below for lengths
- Interfacing – half a yard will be enough for all sizes. For medium weight woven fabrics, a lightweight interfacing is best. For light weight woven fabric, use a heavier interfacing to give more structure.
- OPTIONAL Bias binding – If you are following the sewing machine option and not using a serger/overlocker, you will need bias tape to enclose the gathered hem where the Ruffle attaches. You can either use store bought bias tape or make your own using the instructions in our free DIY bias tape tutorial. You will need double fold bias tape that is ¼ inch wide when finished. Or you can buy/make ½ inch wide single fold bias tape and fold in half down its center line.
- Thread to match
Tools needed are sewing machine, scissors, pins, or clips, cutting mat, tape measure.