No products in the cart.
Progress Menu
x
Home / Childrens / Garments, Jeans, Pants, Shorts
This pattern is copyrighted 2021 to Rebecca Page by rebecca-page.com
Please feel free to make garments from this pattern to sell. If you do, we would love you to include a credit to rebecca-page.com as the pattern designer, but it is up to you.
The finished product may only be sold by crafters. It may not be mass produced. You can only sell the finished product; you cannot sell the pattern or these instructions.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
5
Joey Jeans
Member Rating
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Equipment Needed
Description
This classic jeans pattern is a must-have in any wardrobe. They are a regular fit with a curved yoke back with a traditional waistband and zip fly, and come in two leg lengths. There is also an option to add belt loops and pockets.
Instant download digital sewing pattern. Includes sizes 12mos-12yrs.
Not a member yet? Click here to sign up
- +Preparation
- Waist – These jeans sit just into the natural waist. This means that some of your height adjustment might need to be along the rise. Measure your front and back rise and compare it to the above chart. You can achieve your best fit by adjusting along the rise as well as throughout the legs.
- Height – The height for each size range is indicated in the size chart above.
- Everybody varies in their proportions and some people might find their legs or rise (crotch) are shorter or longer than how this pattern has been drafted. We highly recommend a muslin for any fitted pant pattern (see below) to adjust to your personal body.
- Before your muslin, it is a great idea to measure your inseam. Stand up straight and measure where the crotch seam will hit all the way down the inside of the leg. Compare this measurement to the finished inseam measurement above, to help make adjustments for height.
- Crotch fitting – Fitted jeans have a lot of areas where you might need small adjustments beyond grading the pattern. If you are making the correct size for your hip measurement, but still find you have creases, or “whiskers”, you might need to do one of these adjustments.
- If you have creases at the front or back rise, you might need a full belly or full booty adjustment. Both adjustments are simple slash and spread techniques. Take a measuring tape and measure yourself from waistline to between legs where the front and back rises meet, we call this the x fork, for back creases do the same from back waistline to x fork. If your measurements exceed the pattern measurements, you will need to add into the rise to accommodate for the differences between you and the pattern. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Nappies – The jeans have been drafted to fit ages 12-24 months wearing nappies. If your child cloth nappies and/or is older and wearing nappies, you will need to adjust your leg pieces. You will need to add into the rise on the Front and Back Legs. Along the rise you need to adjust, cut into the rise and spread the pattern to meet the measurement you need. Smooth out your rise and you’re good to start! As always, start with a muslin or toile to test fit until you find the perfect fit for your figure!
- Follow this tutorial for any further fitting advice.
- Muslin – We recommend making a muslin to check the fit on your body. Fitted jeans can be a bit of an art but once you perfect how to fit them for your body type and shape, they are such a wonderful addition to your wardrobe! A muslin is a test version of the pattern in an inexpensive fabric. Make sure to check the fabric recommendations and still use a fabric with the same properties as your final one. No need to finish your seams beautifully, just stitch the front and back legs, clip or pin together at the waist and try on.
- There are many other jeans fitting techniques that might apply to your beautiful figure. If you get stuck with fitting, see our favorite resources on our Pinterest Sewing Fitting Advice board.
- The jeans are designed with the main fabric as denim in mind. As they are loose fitting, they will work with denim with stretch (10-20%) or without, and any medium/heavy weight woven fabric that has a slight stretch or without stretch.
- Great options are denim, stretch denim, bull denim, low-pile corduroy, cotton canvas, twill, or even an old pair of jeans to upcycle.
- There are many weights of denim you can get. These are usually referred to in fabric listings in ounces. So, for example a “14 oz. denim” means a yard of the fabric will weight 14 ounces. The lower the number, the thinner and more pliable the fabric will be. The higher the number, the heaver and thicker it will be. This pattern is suitable for 5 oz. to 14 oz. denims. Do not use above a 14oz. weight fabric or you will find it does not bend sufficiently to manipulate the seams, or to be comfortable in the end garment.
- If you are using stretch woven fabrics, the stretch can run down the selvedge, rather than across. If you find your stretch is running down the selvedge, you will need to turn your pattern to accommodate for this change. Double check to make sure you cut your patterns with the stretch going from hip to hip, and not waist to ankle.
- Fabric choice for this tutorial will make all the difference in how easy and how quick a sew it will be.
- The lighter weight the fabric, the easier you will find it to manipulate and sew.
- The heavier the fabric, the more labor intensive the sew will be. Heavier fabric is generally thicker and harder to manipulate so it will take longer to press and pin. You also need to sew slower in order to not break your needles.
- For an advanced beginner or intermediate sewer, I would recommend any medium weight woven or denim (5-10 oz).
- I would only recommend heavier weight fabrics & denims (e.g. a tradition jean-weight denim such as a 12-14 oz) for more advanced sewers.
- Denim fabric is notorious for shrinking. Darker colors will also stain your fingers and sewing machines as the dye warms up while being handled. Please pre-wash your fabric first (on its own) and dry before using. It can also mark easily in the wash so do not leave it sitting in your washing machine or dryer after washing, hang or fold as soon as you are able.
- A knit stretch fabric (e.g. a fabric with a high percentage of stretch) is not suitable. The pattern is designed for woven fabrics only with a slight stretch.
- Optional 1x Fastening approximately ⅝ – 1 inch wide. You could use a traditional jeans style button, a regular button, or a snap. If using snaps, go for metal or heavy-duty snaps.
- Optional mid weight interfacing – ¼ yard will be more than sufficient for all sizes. You only need interfacing if you are using denim or fabric which is not quite heavy. Heavier weight fabrics will be ok without interfacing. A fabric such as a mid-weight linen will need interfacing. If you are using a stretch fabric, we recommend using a stretch interfacing.
- Optional ⅜ inch wide Jeans Rivets – 8x for the corners of each of the front and back pockets. Optionally you can add another 2 for the coin pocket.
- Optional ½ inch wide Single Fold Bias Tape – This can optionally be used to finish the fly area (½ yard sufficient for all sizes) and the crotch seam (2 yards sufficient for all sizes).
- Optional 1 inch wide plain/buttonhole elastic – Approximately ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Optional 2x ½ inch Buttons – If using buttonhole elastic, you will need a button on each side.
- Optional 1x zipper – you can use any zipper but a ‘chunky’ or ‘jeans’ zip will be more authentically jeans-like. You will only need a 3-inch 2-8yrs, and a 5 inch for sizes 9-12 yrs. We recommend doing a faux fly for sizes 12-24mos.
- Thread to match. You may want to also use specialty topstitching thread. This is usually a heavier weight and you may need more than you are used to as there is generally less on a spool. For 12-24 months you should only need 1 spool. For 2-12 years, you will need 2 spools.
- Sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, buttonhole presser foot and pins or clips.
- Optional – A hammer or mallet may also be helpful for attaching your buttons.
- If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you will also need a specialty needle (either a ‘denim’ needle or a heavy-duty needle such as the sizing ‘70/10 – 110/18’). Make sure you have several available. There is a lot of topstitching in this tutorial and if you are using denim or a thicker fabric, it will blunt and be placed under pressure over the course of the sew. Sewing slowly over bulky sections will help reduce this, however, switching to a fresh needle part way through the sew can help make the sewing easier.
- If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you may also find using a ‘clapper’ helps. A tailor’s clapper is a wooden tool which absorbs moisture from seams after pressing. It helps give a crisp edge and flattens seams too. When working with heavy fabrics such as traditional denim, this can help avoid broken needles and make sewing easier and more accurate.
- If you are using a denim or heavy fabric, make sure to change your needle to a fresh new needle. It really does make a difference and will help pierce the fabric easily as you sew. It can also help stop threads from bunching up underneath while being sewn as the fabric will be cleanly ‘sliced’ by the needle.
- Use a specialty needle. There are denim-specific needles out there, and many machines come with them. They might look the same at first glance, but they are shaped differently and help cut through the fabric easily. Plus, they have thicker shafts that will go through several layers of fabric easier without breaking. A denim specific needle is usually labelled ‘denim needle’ but a heavy-duty needle (70/10 – 110/18) is also good.
- Heavy, thick or specialty fabrics can “slip” under your presser foot quite easily. Denim is one of these. It can sometimes move around and make sewing quite difficult. The presser foot can slip off the fabric, your machine might get stuck sewing in one place and not want to get traction & move forwards and/or the thread might bunch up under the fabric and make knots. If you find any of these problems happening, change your presser foot to a walking foot if you have one. If you don’t have one, try a Teflon coated foot or a zipper foot. The different base and shape can help control the fabric better.
- If you don’t have a walking foot, or Teflon coated presser foot, alternatively, try sewing with tissue paper layered between your fabric and your presser foot. It will help with traction so you can sew evenly and then you’ll be able to tear the tissue paper off after sewing.
- Lengthen your stitch length slightly. For example, my usual stitch length for cotton on my machine is a ‘2’. My longest stitch available is a ‘5’. For a medium weight denim, I lengthen to a ‘2.8’.
- Practice on a scrap of your fabric first to check you are happy with your sewing machine settings.
- To ensure a professional and polished look, make sure to press your seams after each step. Always test on a scrap of fabric first to find out the best temperature for your fabric. Denim especially can require a high temperature to press properly, however it can also mark so it’s best to try it first on a scrap. NOTE – Pressing is when you apply pressure with your iron on the fabric repeatedly. Ironing is moving the iron back and forth on the fabric. A Tailor’s Ham or Roll can also help preserving your fabric because its rounded shape allows you to put pressure with the iron only on the seam.
- Use a stronger thread, especially when topstitching. Specialty topstitching threads are significantly stronger than regular thread, plus, with the flat fell seams we will use in this tutorial, they give a great finish. Use a regular thread in your bobbin.
- Go slowly. When going through several layers (e.g. over a bump in a seam such as where a flat fell seam meets another), I go so slowly that I use the hand wheel on my sewing machine rather than the foot pedal. This really helps with avoiding broken needles.
- If in doubt, change to a fresh needle. Using thick or denim fabrics can really wear the tip of your needle and going through several dense layers (as we will be doing at some points) can bend them. If you have any difficulty with skipping stitches, or funny noises as you sew through thick sections, change your needle. It is far safer to change to a fresh needle than place further pressure on it and snap it.
- Front Leg – Cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)
- Back Leg – Cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Back Pocket – Cut 2
- Pocket Bag – Lining Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Top Facing – Cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)
- Pocket Opening Top Facing – Cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Coin Pocket – Cut 1
- NOTE – There is only one Coin Pocket, so you’ll need to pick which side of the body you want it on. Traditionally ladies coin pockets are on the left-hand side of the body (from the wearer’s perspective), and men’s and children are on the right-hand side. However nowadays it’s interchangeable so just pick the side you prefer.
- NOTE – This piece is if worn on the left-hand side. Mirror the pattern piece if you would prefer it on the right-hand side
- Fly Stand – Cut 1
- NOTE – This piece is if your zipper is worn on the left-hand side. Mirror the pattern piece if you would prefer it on the right-hand side
- Fly Guard – Cut 1
- Front Waistband – Cut 4 (2x mirror image pairs), Optional interfacing cut 2 (1x mirror image pair)
- Back Waistband – Cut 2 on fold, Optional Interfacing Cut 1 on fold
- Back Yoke – Fabric Cut 2 (1 x mirror image pair)
- OPTIONAL Belt Loops – Cut 1
Project OverviewJoey Jeans
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
A classic style jean with a faux fly or zipper fly option, and an adjustable or a regular elastic waistband, creating the perfect fit jeans. Personalize the optional back pockets with embroidery and add the optional coin pocket for little treasures to be stored. Sew the shorts option for those wonderfully warmer days.
Our Facebook group is a great place to get help, share your tips and creations! We are a friendly bunch, and we love to help and see what you have made.
Please read the full instructions before getting started.
Wash, dry, and press your fabric before starting your project. A bit of prep now prevents shrinking and means your garment will stay the same size you made it.
Never leave a child or baby unattended or allow to sleep in a garment made from one of our patterns with ties, snaps, buttons, or anything they could remove, choke on, or get caught on. Always use caution if you are unsure. We love our patterns, but we love your bundles of joy more!
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height Chest Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM 12 – 18 mos 30.0 76.0 19.0 48.0 18.5 47.0 19.7 50.0 18 – 24 mos 32.0 81.0 20.0 51.0 19.5 49.5 20.7 53.0 2 – 3 yrs 36.0 91.0 22.0 56.0 21.0 53.0 22.5 57.0 3 – 4 yrs 41.5 105.0 23.0 58.0 22.0 56.0 24.0 61.0 5 – 6 yrs 47.0 119.0 25.0 63.5 23.0 58.0 26.0 66.0 7 – 8 yrs 51.0 129.5 27.0 69.0 24.0 61.0 28.0 71.0 9 – 10 yrs 54.0 137.0 28.0 71.0 25.0 63.5 31.0 79.0 11 – 12 yrs 57.0 144.5 30.0 76.0 26.0 66.0 33.0 84.0 Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist Hip Calf Thigh Front rise (incl. waistband) Back rise (incl. waistband) Shorts inseam Pants inseam Hem 12 – 18 mos 20.5 22.2 9.5 14.2 4.5 8.3 2.1 15.0 9.0 18 – 24 mos 21.5 23.0 10.1 14.6 4.7 8.5 2.1 16.0 9.5 2 – 3 yrs 23.0 23.7 10.6 15.0 5.3 8.7 3.1 16.0 10.0 3 – 4 yrs 24.0 25.0 11.2 16.1 5.5 9.0 3.1 17.0 10.5 5 – 6 yrs 25.0 27.2 11.7 17.2 5.7 9.5 3.1 19.5 11.0 7 – 8 yrs 26.0 30.0 12.5 18.3 6.2 9.6 3.1 22.0 11.5 9 – 10 yrs 27.0 32.1 13.0 20.0 6.5 10.0 3.1 25.0 12.0 11 – 12 yrs 28.0 35.0 13.6 22.5 7.0 10.5 3.1 28.3 12.5 Fitting NotesMaterials and ToolsLining fabric
You will also need a lining fabric for the Pocket Bags. Optionally you could also do the inside of the waistband in a lining fabric. Any medium weight woven fabric with no stretch will be suitable for this. Examples are cotton, poly cotton, quilting cotton.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
Pants
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.75
0.25
18 mos – 3 yrs
0.75
0.50
0.75
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.50
1.00
0.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.00
0.50
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.25
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
1.25
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
Pants
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.75
0.25
18 mos – 3 yrs
0.75
0.50
0.75
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.50
1.00
0.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.00
0.50
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.25
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
1.25
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
Tools needed are:
Printing Your PatternSettings
The pattern is a separate download. Choose either the US letter paper, A4 paper, or A0 paper size based on the printer you wish to use. If you are in the US or Canada then your printer will likely use US letter paper. Other regions normally use A4 paper. Some people prefer to print their patterns at a print shop: A0 is best in this case.
Print at 100%.
On the second page, you will find a 1-inch and a 3-inch square test box. Print this page first, on its own, and measure these squares.
Once you are happy that the test box is accurate, print the rest of the pattern pages.
Please follow this video for information and assistance on assembling this pattern.
Also, please note that some Rebecca Page patterns and projects also come with cut files and a printable design page which you can use to plan your project if you wish. These are provided in a separate section below to avoid any confusion!
+US Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the US Files
Shorts Pants OPTIONAL Coin Pocket OPTIONAL Belt Loops OPTIONAL Back Pocket 12 – 24 mos 2-4, 12, 18-20 2-4, 10-12, 18-20 19 9, 17 18 2 – 12 yrs 5-9, 16-17, 24-28 5-9, 13-17, 21-28 26 14, 22 28 +A4 Print Charts
Here are which pages to print for the A4 Files
Shorts Pants OPTIONAL Coin pocket OPTIONAL Belt loops OPTIONAL Back pocket 12 – 24 mos 2-4, 12, 18-20 2-4, 10-12, 18-20 19 18-19 18 2 – 10 yrs 5-9, 16, 21, 24-27 5-9, 13-16, 21-27 19 18-19 18 10 – 12 yrs 5-9, 16, 21, 24-27 5-9, 13-16, 21-28 19 18-19 18 Sewing TipsThe main construction method for these jeans is flat fell seams. This is where the seam is stitched together, and one half of the seam allowance tucks over the other. It keeps the raw edges hidden and is a traditional and popular technique for a denim as it makes for a very strong seam. If you haven’t used this technique before, don’t worry, all the steps are included so you can follow along.
Flat felling generally also includes using a topstitch thread in the top of your machine (a thicker, more decorative thread), and a regular thread in your bobbin. The instructions are written so that if you are doing this, your topstitch thread will be on the correct side of the fabric for this finish.
Throughout the pattern you will find serger / overlocker alternatives. If you are not using a serger but you do not wish to follow the flat felling method, you can still follow the serger option and instead use a zigzag or overcasting stitch on your sewing machine.
Where any seams are curved (for example the hip area), you will need to ease the fabric around the curve. To do this, pin the fabric in this order – at the top, at the bottom, along the straight sections and then lastly around the curve. To pin around the curve section will need to ease (slightly stretch the fabric) as you pin.
Sewing with Denim and Specialty Fabrics
Tips for sewing with heavy and specialty fabrics (e.g. denim or corduroy)
Good luck & have fun!
Sewing with specialty fabrics can be really fun & rewarding (and just as easy as normal fabrics) once you’ve got your sewing machine set up how you want it.
Cutting InstructionsCut each of the pieces according to the directions on the pattern piece. Seam allowances are all included so just cut them as is.
Cutting Charts – All pattern pieces are included, however if you prefer to cut using a cutting chart, the dimensions for the rectangular pieces (in INCHES) are below:
OPTIONAL Belt loops
(Cut 1)
Width
Length
12 – 24 mos
2.0
14.0
2 – 12 yrs
2.0
19.0
For the Back Pocket pieces – If you wish to do optional embroidery on the back pockets, draw the shape of the pattern pieces onto your fabric, but do not cut out yet. Put the fabric aside until step 2. We will do the embroidery then cut the pieces accurately after. This helps ensure you have enough fabric to hold if you are hand embroidering, or to fit inside your hoop if you are machine embroidering. If you don’t wish to do any embroidery or embellishment on the pockets, cut 2x back pockets now too.
Cutting Checklist:
NOTE – To cut fabric on the fold, fold your fabric over parallel to the selvage edges. Align the pattern piece so it is on the fold of the fabric. Cut around the edges, leaving the fold. If you have folded your fabric correctly the fold will be parallel to the two edges of the fabric that are finished. The raw edges (e.g. the ones you could pick at and threads would come off) will be at a right angle to your fold.
- + Instructions
- PATTERN MARKINGS – Transfer pattern markings and notches to fabric.
- OPTIONAL INTERFACING – Iron interfacing onto Waistband pieces that will be used on the outside of the garment.
- OPTIONAL BACK POCKETS – Add embroidery to pockets. Fold the top edge of the pocket down ¼ inch to wrong side, press. Turn pocket over, fold the fabric over ½ inch to right side, stitch ½ inch seam allowance on the top folded edge. Turn to the right side, press. Fold each bottom edge in ¼ inch, press. Topstitch top of pocket. Place pocket onto the Back Pocket per markings, topstitch along the entire pocket. Reinforce at top corners and apply rivets if desired.
- BACK YOKE – Attach a Back Yoke to a Back Leg using a flat fell seam. Repeat for other Back Yoke and Back Leg.
- OPTIONAL COIN POCKET – Fold top edge of pocket down ¼ inch to the wrong side, press. Turn the pocket over, fold the fabric over ½ inch to right side, stitch ½ inch seam allowance on each edge of the top folded edge, press. Fold any raw edges and sides under ¼ inch, press. Repeat for other side of the pocket, not the bottom. Topstitch top of the pocket. Put Coin Pocket on the Top Facing on pattern marking, topstitch. Optionally add triangle stitching at the corners and rivets.
- FRONT POCKETS –Turn bottom edge of Pocket Top Facing under ¼ inch, press. Lay Pocket Bag right side up, put Pocket Top Facing right side up on the Pocket Bag, stich on top straight edge, side seam and bottom round edge. Iron bottom round edge of the Pocket Opening Top Facing ¼ inch, press, lay on the Pocket Opening Top Facing right side up. Stitch using ¼ inch seam allowance with topstitch thread. Match Pocket Bag right side together with the Front leg piece, stitch, trim and clip seam. Flip Pocket Bag over to the wrong side of the Front Leg, press. Topstitch with topstitching thread. Stitch the bottom of the Pocket Bag closed using a French Seam. Stitch the Pocket Bag to the Front and Side, repeat to the other Front and pocket.
- ZIPPER FLY OPTION – Fold Fly Guard in half, wrong side together, press, optionally finish edges by serging, zigzag edges, or bind edges with binding. Finish the curved edge of the Fly Stand. Place Fly Guard with finished edge to the right. Place zipper face up on top of Fly Guard, pin finished edge. Stitch zipper to the Fly Guard. Finish rise seam full length on both legs down to the notch. Put Front Legs right sides together, stitch from notch downwards. Press left leg rise seam allowance ⅝ inch to wrong side. Place the folded edge of the left front leg close to the zipper teeth, pin and topstitch in place through all layers.
- FAUX FLY OPTION – Fold Fly Guard in half, wrong side together, press, optionally finish edges by serging, zigzag edges, or bind edges with binding. Finish the curved edge of the Fly Stand. Open the right side of the jeans, put Fly Guard on left leg and pin, stitch top down to marking. Turn Fly Guard over, press, topstitch. Place right sides together, pin Fly Stand to right leg, stitch from waist edge down to marking. Flip Fly Stand to wrong side of right leg, press. Mark the curved part of fly for topstitching. Topstitch marked curve. Turn jeans over, lay Fly Guard over Fly Stand, pin. Turn jeans over again, stitch Fly Guard to Fly Stand starting halfway down curved stitching.
- FRONT RISE – Clip the seam allowance below the zipper fly and finish the front rise with a flat fell seam.
- BACK RISE – Stitch the Back Rise using a flat fell seam.
- OUTER LEG SEAM – Stitch the Outer Leg Seams using a flat fell seam.
- INNER LEG SEAM – Stitch the Inner Leg Seams using a French seam.
- BELT LOOPS & WAISTBAND ASSEMBLY – Fold belt loop strip in half, press. Open, fold raw edges into center, press. Fold again, press. Topstitch ⅛ inch on each side of long edges. Line Front Waistband and one end of the Belt Loop to the top edge of the Waistband. Cut the Belt Loop at the bottom raw edge of the Front Waistband. Cut 5x strips of Belt Loops all the same length. Fold a short end of each Belt Loop up ¼ inch to the wrong side. Pin a Front Waistband piece to a Back Waistband, repeat with the Front Waistband on other side of the Back Waistband. Repeat to make a second waistband. For waistband that will be the outer waistband, find the center and mark. Put a Belt Loop wrong side down on the center mark, pin. Fold both Front Waistbands in half, mark centers then place Belt Loops and pin. Find the halfway point between Back and Front Belt Loops, mark and pin last two Belt Loops. Stitch top of Belt Loops in place with ¼ inch seam allowance.
- PLAIN ELASTIC WAISTBAND OPTION – Press bottom edge of waistband up ⅝ inch to wrong side. Put waistband pieces right sides together. Stitch short ends and long edge. Turn waistband right side out, press. Open zipper, put right side of waistband inside the jeans, pin, stitch. Flip waistband over, pin bottom folded edge of waistband down, stitch back part of waistband between the seams between front and back waistbands ONLY – don’t stitch the belt loops. Thread elastic check fit then stitch. Topstitch front waistband, stitch tops of beltloops. Stitch bottom of each belt loop individually, they will protrude off the bottom of the waistband. Close the zipper/faux zipper, add button/buttonhole, snaps/fastenings. If adding rivets, add them now.
- ADJUSTABLE ELASTIC WAISTBAND OPTION – Mark vertical line on Waistband Lining ½ inch onto both Front Waistbands from the seam. Stitch a buttonhole big enough to thread your elastic through. Fold bottom exterior Waistband piece towards wrong side by ½ inch, press. Flip Belt Loops down. Place Waistband pieces right sides together, stitch on short edge and along the long edges that aren’t folded. Turn Waistband right side out, press. Put right side of Waistband Lining inside of jeans, stitch. Turn Waistband right side out, pin, don’t attach Belt Loop to bottom of Waistband. Topstitch all the way around the Waistband. Stitch bottom of Belt Loops. Close the zipper/faux zipper, add button/buttonhole, snaps/fastenings. If adding rivets, add them now. Stitch a button at the marking on each side of the Waistband Lining, ½ inch past the buttonhole. Measure between buttonholes on the waistband elastic, add 2 inches, cut buttonhole elastic. Pin to pants, thread into waistband. Fold each end of elastic under ½ inch, stitch.
- HEM – Try jeans on, check length and adjust. Fold hem ½ inch, press. Fold another ½ inch, press, pin. Topstitch close to folded edge. Repeat for other leg.
Quick Glance Cheat Sheet⅝ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Topstitching ⅛ inch
Preparation –
Sewing –
0 . PreparationSeam Allowance
⅝ inch seam allowance included – Basting ¼ inch – Top stitching ⅛ inch
0.1NOTE – If you are sewing multiple sizes, all sizes have steps which are the same. The ladies have additional back darts the men’s and children’s sizes do not have. The children’s sizes have an additional adjustable waistband option. Where the steps are the same, the same photographs have been used. Make sure to follow the options specific to the sizing you are doing.
0.2Pattern Markings
Transfer all pattern markings and notches to the fabric using a disappearing fabric pen or chalk.
0.3OPTIONAL INTERFACING
If you are using a lighter weight fabric you may need to add interfacing to the front waistband pieces.
Using the manufacturer’s instructions, iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband pieces.
NOTE – Iron the interfacing onto the waistband pieces that will be used on the outside of the garment.
1 . OPTIONAL Back Pockets1.0If you wish to use a topstitch thread, put this into your machine now. Make sure to use a regular thread in your bobbin.
If you are using a thicker fabric such as denim, also switch your needle to a fresh appropriate one (e.g. a denim needle) and lengthen your stitch slightly. Test stitch on a scrap of fabric to check you are happy with the stitch length and then continue.
If you are doing the optional back pockets, follow below. Otherwise, skip to step 2.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge all edges to finish (do not remove any seam allowance. If you wish to apply embroidery, follow step 1.1. Fold the top edge under ¾ inch, press and topstitch in place. Fold all other edges under ½ inch and press. Align on the pattern piece and topstitch in place, leaving the top edge open. Then skip to step 2.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
1.1If you wish to apply any embroidery to the Back Pockets, do this now. If not, skip to step 1.2.
You could do straight lines, crosses, freehand embroidery or even a design or name using a sewing machine, embroidery machine or freehand.
If adding an applique or any other embellishment, do this now.
If you are using a machine to embroider and you have not yet cut your pockets out accurately so you could get the fabric in your embroidery hoop, finish cutting the pockets out after you embroider.
If you use topstitching thread for this step, change back to a regular thread before moving to the next step.
TIP – Iron interfacing onto the pockets to help prevent them from stretching out when you stitch your embroidery.
1.2Fold the top edge of the Back Pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Your fabric will be wrong sides together.
1.3Turn the pocket over and fold the fabric ½ inch to the right side and press. This fold will make the fabric right sides together.
1.4Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
1.5Clip the corners to remove some of the bulk and allow you to get a crisp corner.
1.6Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. Press.
1.7Fold the raw edge on the side under ¼ inch and press so the raw edges are hidden.
Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
1.8Fold the bottom edges of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side once.
Then repeat to fold the bottom edges of the pocket another ¼ inch the wrong side a second time.
1.9If you have a little triangle of fabric hanging down from the top of the pocket edge, either trim this or tuck it up inside the top of the pocket and press.
1.10Topstitch from the right side of the fabric close to the folded edge at the top of the pocket.
Leave the threads long at each end.
TIP – Stitch slowly. It can be difficult to sew through all these layers. Use the handwheel rather than the pedal if needed. Beware of snapping needles and stitch with care.
TIP – Use a ‘clapper’ to make it easier to stitch through the layers. Alternatively, cover your fabric with a clean old tea towel, place on a flat hard surface and bang the thick section gently with a hammer. This flattens and makes the fabric thinner to stitch through. It also breaks the fibers and makes the fabric less dense.
1.11Use a needle to push the loose threads all through to the back side of the pocket. Tie in a knot and trim.
1.12Place the Back Pocket on your Back Leg piece using the pattern markings. Pin.
TIP – As everyone’s body shape is different you may find the pocket placements may not be in the best position for you. Baste the Back Pocket using the placements provided. Once you have completed step 8, try them on and adjust the placements if needed. Then continue with 1.13 to stitch them in place.
1.13Topstitch along the side of the pocket, across the bottom and up the other side.
OPTIONAL – You can sew a triangle/bar tacks at the corners for extra stability and security. This is especially useful for reinforcing the pockets if you tend to put your hands in your back pockets or use them for storing things like a phone.
TIP – If you are using topstitching thread, it can be tricky to backstitch. Instead leave the thread loose, take the tails through to the wrong side of the fabric, tie in a secure knot and trim.
Repeat steps 1.1 to 1.13 for the other back pocket.
1.14If you wish to apply rivets, apply these as per the manufacturer’s instructions on the upper two corners of the pockets.
If not, skip to step 2.
2 . Back Yoke2.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, place the Back Yoke right sides together with the Back Leg, ensuring the correct pieces are matched. Serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. If you are using a 3 or 4 thread serger, stitch along your serged seam, using a regular sewing machine. This will strengthen the seam as it is a high strain point. Press the seam up towards the yoke. Optionally topstitch the seam allowance in place. Then skip to step 3.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
2.1The Back Yoke and Back Leg piece will be joined using a flat fell seam.
Place the Back Leg piece wrong side up, and then place the Back Yoke wrong side up above it.
Firstly check that the Back Leg and Back Yoke match and that the yoke is the correct way up, otherwise the bottom shaping will be strange and the seams won’t fit together well.
The center back seam of the Back Yoke pattern piece is labeled. This is the side to match to the back rise.
The opposite edge to the center back seam will be slightly shorter. It lines up with the outside leg side seam on the Back Leg.
The long straight edge of the Back Yoke is the top of the yoke. The long-curved edge is the one that joins to the Back Leg.
If you’ve got the wrong Back Yoke piece, switch these now and check they match.
Once you’re happy you’ve got the correct pair of pieces, move on to the next step.
2.2With flat fell seams, it is important which piece you have on top when you stitch. The top piece will have the first row of top stitching and then the bottom piece will have the seam allowance pressed towards it and the second row of top stitching.
Flip the Back Yoke down onto the Back Leg piece so they are wrong sides together.
NOTE – Some of the photos in these steps are from the ladies’ jeans pattern so the yoke is a slightly different shape. However, the construction is the same.
2.3You are pinning two curved edges together here. The curves will be trying to go in different directions so take your time to pin.
Start by pinning each end.
The ends will cross over in a point. Align the V of the point so that the very tip of the V is ⅝ inch from the raw edge. This means when you start stitching the Back Yoke on, the seam will be ⅝ inch from the raw edge and will start at the very middle/tip of the V between the two pointy bits.
NOTE – If the raw edge of the Back Leg is too long for the Back Yoke piece, check that you have the Back Yoke the correct way up.
2.4Then pin in the middle and pin the rest of the seam.
2.5Stitch with the Back Leg piece on top, using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
The seam allowance will be sticking out on the right side of the garment (not the underside like it usually would be).
TIP – Having the Back Leg piece on top is important to ensure the topstitching looks correct so make sure the back is on top and the Back Yoke is underneath when you put the fabric onto your sewing machine before stitching.
TIP – If you are using a thicker topstitching as used in these photos, some sewing machines won’t like backstitching at either end of the seam. Flat fell seams have two rows of stitching holding them down so backstitching can be skipped on most seams. Instead, leave a small tail of thread at either end to stop it unravelling while you complete the rest of the garment. Once complete the seams will all overlap or be finished in some way and these tails will be hidden.
2.6Trim ONLY the Back Yoke seam allowance in half.
Do not trim the Back Leg seam allowance.
2.7Press the seam towards the Back Yoke (so that the shorter part of the seam allowance is hidden underneath).
Turn the garment to the wrong side and check the full seam allowance has been pressed. Especially near the outside leg seam, it can be easy to not open the seam allowance fully. The curved seam is what gives the bottom shaping so it’s important it’s fully open.
2.8Fold the longer part of the seam allowance in half. The raw edge should tuck in, underneath the other shorter bit of seam allowance that you trimmed in step 2.6.
Press.
2.9Topstitch from the right side of the fabric, close to the folded edge (approximately ⅛ inch from the folded edge) to secure the fold down.
Press.
Your first flat fell seam is now complete!
We will be using this technique in several places throughout the sew. As you get used to it, make sure to check each time which pattern piece needs to be on top. This will ensure you end up with the topstitching thread showing on the correct piece, and the seam allowance folding in the right direction.
2.10Repeat steps 2.1 to 2.9 for the other Back Yoke and Back Leg.
3 . OPTIONAL Coin Pocket3.0If you are doing the optional coin pocket, follow below. Otherwise skip to step 4.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the top and two side edges of the Coin Pocket to finish (do not remove any seam allowance). Turn the top edge under ¾ inch, press and topstitch in place. Turn the two side edges in ½ inch and press. Topstitch in place on the Top Pocket Facing. Then skip to step 4.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
3.1Using the same technique here as we did for the top of the back pockets. Fold the top edge of the pocket ¼ inch to the wrong side and press. Your fabric will be wrong sides together.
3.2Fold the fabric ½ inch to the right side and press. This fold will make the fabric right sides together.
3.3Stitch from the top edge to the folded edge using a ½ inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
3.4Turn the folded fabric to the wrong side. When you turn it, the sides will fold in ½ inch on each side. Press
3.5Fold the raw edge on the side under ¼ inch and press so the raw edges are hidden.
Repeat for the other side of the pocket.
Do not fold under the bottom. Leave this as a raw edge.
3.6Topstitch from the right side of the fabric close to the folded edge at the top of the pocket.
3.7Place your coin pocket right side up on a flat surface. If you have a little triangle of seam allowance at the bottom where the side seam allowance has been tucked in twice, trim this now so the raw edges are smooth.
3.8Align the Coin Pocket onto the Pocket Top Facing and pin in place.
There is only one Coin Pocket, so you’ll need to pick which side of the body you want it on. Traditionally ladies coin pockets are on the left-hand side of the body (from the wearer’s perspective), and men’s and children’s are on the right-hand side. However nowadays it’s interchangeable so just pick the side you prefer.
The pocket should be centered over the Coin Pocket marking on the pattern piece, while making sure the bottom raw edge of the Coin Pocket match with the bottom raw edge of the Pocket Top Facing.
3.9Topstitch along the side of the pocket, across the bottom and up the other side. Ignore the raw edges at the bottom, these will be hidden inside the seam that joins to the bottom of the Pocket Top Facing.
OPTIONAL – You can sew a triangle at the corners for extra stability and security.
OPTIONAL – Add rivets according to manufacturer’s instructions.
4 . Front Pockets4.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the bottom round edge of the Pocket Top Facing using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Follow steps 4.2 – 4.4. Serge the bottom round edge of the Pocket Opening Top Facing using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Place the right side of the Pocket Opening Top Facing on top of the right side of the Pocket Bag, aligning the curves. Serge using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Follow step 4.6. Serge the Pocket Opening Top Facing to the Pocket Bag with both facing right sides up. Follow step 4.7. Serge the Pocket Bag right sides together to the Front. Follow steps 4.10 – 4.11. Serge the bottom edge of the Pocket Bag using a ½ inch seam allowance. Follow step 4.15. Repeat all with the other Front and Pocket. Then skip to step 5.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
4.1Turn the bottom round edge of the Pocket Top Facing under ¼ inch and press.
TIP – If you are having trouble turning this edge under, stitch a basting stitch (a long loose stitch) using a ¼ inch seam allowance along this edge. Pull the bottom thread taut and use the thread as a guide for turning the raw edge under. Press, then pull the bobbin thread to remove the stitches.
4.2Place one Pocket Bag right side up.
Place a Pocket Top Facing right side up on top of the Pocket Bag. Align the top corners.
4.3Stitch the Pocket Top Facing to the Pocket Bag along the top straight edge and along the rounded side seam using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This seam will be hidden inside the finished garment so you can use a regular thread (not topstitching).
4.4Topstitch the bottom rounded raw edge of the Pocket Top Facing to the Pocket Bag. This seam will be hidden inside the finished garment so you can use a regular thread (not topstitching).
4.5Repeat step 4.1 to turn under the bottom rounded edge of the Pocket Opening Top Facing ¼ inch and press.
4.6Place the Pocket Bag right side up. Place the Pocket Opening Top Facing right side up on top, aligning the curves.
Stitch using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.7Topstitch the bottom curved edge of the Pocket Opening Top Facing onto the Pocket Bag.
4.8Place the Pocket Bag right sides together with the Front leg piece.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
4.9Trim the seam allowance approximately in half, then clip the seam allowance.
TIP – Clip approximately every ½ inch. The aim is to open the seam out so it will sit flat in the next step. Use the tip of the scissors for maximum control. Snip approximately ¾ of the way into the seam allowance. Do not snip too close to the seam or you may end up with a hole. It’s easier to snip less and come back and snip again if needed than it is to fix a hole.
TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the Front leg seam, then trim ⅜ from the Pocket Bag seam allowance.
4.10Flip the Pocket Bag over to the wrong side of the Front leg. It should now be wrong side to wrong side.
Press.
4.11If you are using topstitching thread, change your thread to this now for this step only.
Topstitch along this seam with the Front Leg on top so the stitching can be seen.
4.12The bottom of the Pocket Bag will be closed using a French Seam.
Fold the Pocket Bag wrong sides together. It’s a bit tricky to do this and you’ll need to slide it in between the Front and the other side of the Pocket Bag.
Stitch along the bottom using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Take care not to catch the Front leg, or any other part of the Pocket Bag.
4.13Trim the seam allowance to neaten.
4.14Turn the Pocket Bag the other way out so that it is now right sides together.
Stitch along the bottom of the Pocket Bag using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
4.15Baste the Pocket Bag to the Front Leg along the top and side using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Basting is just like normal stitching except the stitches need to be long and loose so that they can be removed later, if needed. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that the basting stitches are not seen in the final garment, while keeping the stitches loose enough to pull out just in case they are visible. The purpose is to hold a piece of fabric in place until that section is properly sewn. Set the machine to a long loose stitch. Test it on a piece of fabric first to make sure that the stitches can easily be removed. Do not backstitch at either end. Leave the ends loose, with approximately 1 inch of thread tails at either end of the stitching.
4.16Repeat steps 4.1 to 4.16 with the other Front and pocket.
5 . Zipper Fly Option5.0If you are doing the zipper fly, follow below. Otherwise, if you are doing the faux fly, skip to step 6. We recommend the faux fly for sizes 12-24 mos.
The following steps show the zipper fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way a women/girl’s fly is oriented. If you want your fly to open to the right, complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.
5.1Fold the Fly Guard in half, wrong sides together. Press.
5.2If you want to bind the raw edges, skip to step 5.3.
Alternatively finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging or using a zig zag stitch. Do not remove any seam allowance if you are serging. Skip to step 5.7.
5.3You will be binding the long edge and the bottom edge of the Fly Guard. You do not need to bind the top short edge of the Fly Guard.
To bind the edge, open the Binding and place it wrong side up along the long edge of the Fly Guard. and pin in place.
NOTE – We will use this same binding technique throughout the tutorial where there are raw edges that you would otherwise serge or zig zag stitch. The method is the same for all seams, whether you have one layer of fabric or two, and whether you have a straight seam or a curved seam.
5.4Stitch along the fold line using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
5.5Fold the Binding around to the other side of the Fly Guard and pin to enclose all edges.
5.6Topstitch close to the folded edge of the Binding to secure.
5.7Finish the curved edge of the Fly Stand by serging or zig zag stitching, or alternatively follow steps 5.3 – 5.6 to bind.
5.8Place your Fly Guard with the finished edge to the right.
Then, place the zipper face up on top of the Fly Guard and pin along the finished edge.
NOTE – The zipper teeth need to be ⅝ inch from the edge of the Fly Guard. As zipper tapes vary in width, check that you have the correct seam allowance, adjusting your placement accordingly.
NOTE – If your zipper is too long, remove some of the teeth from the bottom, to shorten it. Use pliers to gently pull the teeth off. Then stitch a bar tack over the zipper teeth at the bottom.
5.9Stitch the zipper to the Fly Guard using ⅜ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Guard.
5.10SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Serge to finish the full length of the rise seam of one front leg piece. Do not remove any seam allowance. Repeat to serge the rise of the other leg. Skip to step 5.11.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Finish the rise seam of one front leg piece from the top edge, down to the small notch marking on the pattern (marked in blue in this photo). Use either a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine to just finish the edge, or alternatively bind using the method from steps 5.3-5.6. Repeat for the other leg.
5.11Place the front legs with the right sides together and pin. Stitch from the marking down to the end of the front rise seam using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
Open the jeans legs and press the seam allowance on the left legs rise seam ⅝ inch toward the wrong side.
TIP – It can be helpful to press just under ⅝ inch, so the overlap needed in the following steps is a bit easier.
5.12Place the zipper and Fly Guard right side up and place the left leg on top of the zipper. Flip over so right sides are facing up and pin the folded edge close to the zipper tape and through the Fly Guard.
5.13Topstitch, from the right side, close to the folded edge through all layers, using a zipper foot.
5.14With the right sides together, pin the Fly Stand to the right leg. Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance
5.15Flip the Fly Stand to the wrong side of the right leg and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Fly Stand in place.
5.16Pin the right leg over the left leg so that none of the topstitching on the left side is showing.
NOTE – You want your pins to be going vertically so that you can complete the next step.
5.17Turn the front legs over so that the wrong side is up. You will be sewing the zipper to the Fly Stand, but not through the jeans leg.
Pin the zipper to the Fly Stand and stitch. Be careful to keep the jeans leg out of the way.
NOTE – You do not need to sew close to the zipper teeth, you just need to make sure the zipper is stitched to the Fly Stand.
NOTE – The Fly Guard in this image is curved, however the piece is rectangle in shape.
5.18Pin the Fly Guard to the left leg so that it is out of the way for the next step.
5.19Mark the front of the jeans where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly. You can do this by feeling for the Fly Stand and then marking with a piece of chalk or washable marker.
Check the lines finishes just below the zipper so that you do not end up stitching over the zipper teeth.
Keeping the pocket bag and Fly Guard out of the way, topstitch where you have marked.
TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your jeans for this topstitching. If yours has this, just cut the cardboard flap away from your zipper package and then use it a template.
TIP – Use the Fly Stand pattern piece as a template.
OPTIONAL – Stitch a horizontal bar tack ½ inch above the bottom curve for added strength.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch a second row of stitching.
5.20Turn the jeans over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard.
Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand along the overlap on the bottom edge.
Skip to step 7.
6 . Faux Fly Option6.0If you are doing the faux fly, follow below. Otherwise, if you have done the zipper fly, skip to step 7.
The following steps show the faux fly opening to the left, which is traditionally the way a women’s fly is oriented. If you want the fly to open to the right, complete the steps by sewing on the opposite side.
6.1Fold the Fly Guard in half with the wrong sides together and press.
6.2If you want to bind the raw edges, skip to step 6.3.
Alternatively, finish the long edge and bottom edge of the Fly Guard by serging, using a zig zag stitch or following steps 5.3 – 5.6 to bind the edge. Then skip to step 6.7.
6.3You will be binding the long raw edge of the Fly Guard. You do not need to bind the top short edge of the Fly Guard.
To bind the edge, open the Binding and place it wrong side up along the long curved edge of the Fly Guard and pin in place.
NOTE – We will use this same binding technique throughout the tutorial where there are raw edges that you would otherwise serge or zig zag stitch. The method is the same for all seams, whether you have one layer of fabric or two, and whether you have a straight seam or a curved seam.
6.4Stitch along the fold line using a ¼ inch seam allowance.
TIP – Trim the seam allowance of the Fly Guard only to reduce bulk.
6.5Fold the Binding around to the other side of the Fly Guard and pin to enclose all edges.
6.6Topstitch close to the folded edge of the Binding to secure.
6.7Finish the curved edge of the Fly Stand by serging or zig zag stitching, or alternatively follow steps 6.3 – 6.6 to bind.
6.8Place the Front Legs right sides together. Pin the front rise from the pattern marking down to the end of the front rise seam.
Stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.9Open the jeans legs right side up and place the Fly Guard on the left leg and pin. Stitch from the top down to the marking using a ½ inch seam allowance.
6.10Flip the Fly Guard over and press.
6.11Topstitch close to the folded edge.
6.12With the right sides together, pin the Fly Stand to the right leg. Stitch from the waist edge down to the marking using a ½ seam allowance.
6.13Flip the Fly Stand to the wrong side of the right leg and press.
OPTIONAL – Topstitch the Fly Stand in place.
6.14Fold the Fly Guard back on itself so that it is out of the way for the next step. Pin.
6.15Mark the front of the jeans where you will be sewing the curved part of the fly with a piece of tailor’s chalk or washable marker. Feel through the fabric to the Fly Stand underneath and follow the seam allowance of this.
Flip the pocket back out of the way. Depending on the size, you may need to unpick a little of the stitching holding the top of the pocket in place in order to flip it back out of the way. Alternatively, if it does overlap the Fly Stand and you want it stitched underneath it, lay this flat under it now.
Topstitch where you have marked, keeping the pocket and Fly Guard out of the way.
TIP – The back flap of some zipper packages has a guide you can use to mark your jeans for this topstitching. Just cut the flap away from your zipper package and then use it a template.
6.16Turn the jeans over so the wrong side is up. Unpin the Fly Guard and let it lay open and flat, so it covers the Fly Stand. Pin in place from the right side.
6.17Flip the jeans over so the right side is facing up. You will be stitching the fly half closed. Stitch the Fly Guard to the Fly Stand starting halfway down the curved stitching, then just stitch right on top of your previous stitches. You can also add a horizontal stitch to make it even more secure.
7 . Front Rise7.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – You have already finished the front rise. Skip to step 8.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
7.1A flat fell seam will be used to finish the front rise.
Clip across the seam allowance of the rise seam, below the zipper fly, towards the stitching. You will be clipping as close to the stitching as possible. Clip each side.
7.2Trim the seam allowance on the right side of the seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the left.
NOTE – If you chose to have your zipper fly opening to the right, you will be trimming the seam allowance on the left. All of the rest of the steps will be opposite.
7.3Press the left seam allowance over the right seam allowance.
7.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
7.5Topstitch close to the folded edge from the right side of the fabric (with topstitching thread if you are using it).
NOTE – The topstitching should meet the end of the curved stitching on the front of the jeans.
8 . Back Rise8.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the back rise seam together using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to one side, and optionally topstitch the seam allowance in place. Then skip to step 9.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
8.1A flat fell seam will be used to stitch the back rise.
Place the back legs with the right sides together and pin along the rise seam. Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
8.2Trim the seam allowance on the left side of the rise seam in half. Do not trim the seam allowance on the right.
NOTE – You are trimming the opposite side of what you did on step 7.2. This is so the stitching on both seams will match up when you stitch the front and backs together. If you did the fly on the other side, do the opposite here too.
8.3Press the right seam allowance over the left.
8.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press and pin.
If you have any difficulty folding the raw edges over the Back Yoke seam, open out the seam allowance and trim the underneath seam slightly more along this section. Then refold, press and pin. If needed use clappers or a hammer gently while covering the fabric to flatten.
8.5Topstitch close to the folded edge.
9 . Outer Leg Seams9.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the front and back leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the outer leg and serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press the seam towards the back. Optionally topstitch the seam allowance in place. Repeat for the other leg. Then, skip to step 10.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below:
9.1A flat fell seam will be used to stitch the Outer Leg seam.
Place the front legs and the back legs with the right sides together and pin down the outer leg seam.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance with the front on top.
9.2Trim the seam allowance on the back leg in half.
Do not trim the seam allowance on the front leg. Make sure you are only trimming the seam allowance from the back leg in half, from the top. You should only ever be cutting through one layer of fabric.
9.3Press the front leg seam allowance over the Back Leg seam allowance.
9.4Turn your longer seam allowance under, tucking the raw edges in. Press.
Pin from the right side of the fabric.
TIP – If you find the pocket bag will not fold over into a flat fell style seam, trim the underneath layers, unpicking any stitching from the pocket which will be inside the tucked under seam allowance if needed.
9.5Topstitch close to the folded edge from the right side of the fabric.
Repeat steps 9.1 to 9.5 for the other outer leg seam.
NOTE – The second outer leg seam will be a little trickier, because you will not be able to lay the jeans flat anymore. Just make sure that you keep the rest of the jeans out of the way as you sew the seam.
10 . Inner Leg Seam10.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – Place the front and back leg pieces right sides together. Pin along the inner leg seam and serge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance. Press to the back. Then skip to step 11.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – We are going to do French seams to stitch the front and back of the leg together. French seams hide all the raw edges and give a much cleaner finish. If you haven’t done these before, don’t worry, all the steps are below so you can just follow along.
10.1With the wrong sides together (right sides facing out), pin the front legs to the back legs along the inseam.
Stitch ¼ inch from the edge. Backstitch at both the beginning and the ending of stitching.
NOTE – If you find your fabric is too thick to do a French Seam, follow the serger option but use a zig zag stitch or bind to finish the seam.
10.2Trim the seam allowances approximately in half.
TIP – You are trimming here so that when you encase the seam in the next step all the threads and raw edges are hidden. I generally try to trim my seam allowance in half as I like to make sure absolutely nothing is sticking out. However, just neatening up the edge here will also suffice.
10.3Turn wrong side out and press from the other side as flat as you can. Make sure that the seam line is at the exact center of your fold.
10.4Stitch again approximately 3/8 inch from the edge.
Press.
This will encase the raw edges so you can’t see them (a French seam).
NOTE – The first ¼ inch from step 10.1 plus the 3/8 inch from this step equals the full seam allowance of ⅝ inch
11 . Belt Loops & Waistband Assembly11.0If you are doing the optional belt loops, start at step 11.1. Otherwise start at step 11.6.
11.1If you are familiar with making double fold bias tape, we are using that technique here. If not, don’t worry, just follow along here!
Fold your Belt Loop strip in half along its length with wrong sides together, and press.
11.2Open this piece flat again and fold the raw edges into the center, meeting at the center fold made in the previous step, press.
11.3Fold in half, along your original fold line from step 11.1 and press. Your raw edges should now be tucked inside.
Topstitch ⅛ inch on each long edge.
11.4Place the Front Waistband on a flat surface. Align one end of the Belt Loop so that the raw edges are lined up with the top raw edge of the Front Waistband. Cut the Belt Loop where the bottom raw edge of the Front Waistband is.
Repeat to cut 5x strips of Belt Loop, all the same length, which are the same depth as the Front Waistband.
Discard any remaining Belt Loop, just keeping these 5 identically sized pieces.
11.5Press one short end ¼ inch to the wrong side for all 5 Belt Loops.
11.6Pin one Front Waistband piece right sides together to one short end of the Back Waistband.
Check you have the correct Front Waistband as there is a left and right. It is the angled end of the Front Waistband that meets with the Back Waistband.
Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance open.
11.7Repeat to stitch the matching pair Front Waistband to the other end of the Back Waistband.
Repeat steps 11.6 to 11.7 to create the second waistband.
If you are doing the optional belt loops, continue below. Otherwise skip to step 12.
11.8On the waistband you want to be the outside of your waistband (the other one will be your lining), fold it in half and mark the center point with tailor’s chalk, a disappearing fabric marker or a pin.
NOTE – If you interfaced one set of waistbands, use these. The others will be the lining.
NOTE – This method will add belt loops which are slightly off center at the front in the finished garment. This is a traditional placement. If you’d prefer them centered, put all 5 belt loops aside. These will be attached in step 12.6 for the plain elastic waistband option or in step 13.9 for the adjustable elastic waistband option.
11.9With the waistband right side upwards and positioned so the waistband makes a ‘smile’ type curve (a happy smile, not a sad one!).
Place one of the Belt Loops wrong side down onto the waistband. Center it over the center back marking you made in step 11.9, aligning the raw edge without the fold to the top edge of the waistband.
Pin or clip in place.
11.10Fold one Front Waistband in half and mark the center point.
11.11Repeat step 11.9 to pin a second Belt Loop onto the center point of the Front Waistband.
Repeat steps 11.10 to 11.11 to pin a third Belt Loop onto the other Front Waistband.
11.12We now need to find the halfway point between the Back and Front belt loops.
Fold the Belt Loop from step 11.11 to meet the Belt Loop from step 11.9. Mark the center point.
11.13Repeat step 11.9 to pin a fourth Belt Loop onto the center point from step 10.12.
Repeat steps 11.12 to 11.13 to pin a fifth Belt Loop onto the other side.
11.14Stitch top of all Belt Loops in place using a ¼ inch seam allowance. This stitching will be hidden in the finished garment.
12 . Plain Elastic Waistband Option12.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow the same steps as below, except for steps 12.2 and 12.5, serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 13.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE – Follow below.
12.1If you have already attached them, flip the optional Belt Loops up and out of the way.
Press the bottom edge of the waistband ⅝ inch to the wrong side.
12.2If you did the optional Belt Loops, flip them back down.
Place the waistband pieces with right sides together and pin. The optional Belt Loops will be sandwiched between the Waistband and Waistband lining pieces.
Stitch up the short edge, along the long edge that is not folded and down the other short edge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – You will be stitching over the folded seam allowance from step 12.1 at the sides of the waistband.
12.3Clip the corners to prevent bulk and allow you to get crisp corners.
12.4Turn the waistband right side out and press.
Make sure to fully turn the corners out. Use a blunt pointed object such as a point turner or knitting needle to get them all the way out.
Open the zipper. Place the right side of the waistband on the inside of the jeans and pin.
You should be pinning the right side of the lining part of the waistband to the wrong side of the jeans. The Belt Loops will be pointing into the garment.
Start by pinning each end and then ease the remainder in. The side seams of the waistband may not match to the side seams of the jeans.
NOTE – Your waistband should fit the top of your jeans exactly. However, if your fabric has stretched during construction, you may find you need to ease it on slightly. Start by pinning each end and the center, then divide each side into half and pin, then in half again and pin, and so on until it is evenly distributed along the waistband. If any of your staystitching is visible from the outside of the garment, remove it now.
12.5Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
NOTE – In order to start stitching at the exact ⅝ inch seam allowance, you will need to pull the inner waistband (with pressed edge) out of the way.
TIP – If your fabric is very thick, grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Trim off ¼ inch from the outer waistband seam, then trim ⅜ from the inner waistband seam allowance.
12.6Flip the waistband over to the right side.
Pin the bottom folded edge of the waistband down onto the jeans along the back part of the waistband only.
If you have attached them, fold the top of the Belt Loops down onto the waistband, but do not catch the bottom of the Belt Loops in your pinning.
Make sure the folded edge of the waistband covers the stitching.
NOTE – If you did not attach the Belt Loops in step 11, place them as desired and topstitch in place at the top and bottom of the Waistband.
12.7Topstitch the back part of the waistband, between the front and back waistband side seams only. Do not stitch the front waistbands. Use topstitching thread if you are using it and stitch from the right side of the garment.
12.8Measure across the Back Waistband, take off 1 inch and cut the elastic to this measurement.
Thread the elastic through the back waistband.
TIP – To thread the elastic, I like to pin one end of the elastic to the jeans, so it doesn’t slip inside. I then put a safety pin on the other end and thread it through using that to guide it.
FIT CHECK – If you can, try the jeans on the child now and adjust the elastic to fit.
Pin in place.
12.9With right sides facing up, sew along both waistband side seams from the top to the bottom of the waistband (“stitch in the ditch”).
This will secure your elastic. Remove any pins holding the elastic in place.
12.10Pin the bottom folded edge of the waistband down onto the jeans along the remaining length of the waistband.
Again, if you have attached them, fold the top of the Belt Loops down onto the waistband, but do not catch the bottom of the Belt Loops in your pinning.
Again, make sure the folded edge of the waistband covers the stitching.
12.11Topstitch the front waistband using topstitching thread if you are using it. Stitch from the end of the stitching in step 12.6 at the side seam along to the center front, up the short edge and back along the top edge of the front waistband, stopping at the side seam.
Make sure as you are stitching that you do catch the top folded edge of the Belt Loop, but not the bottom edge. Take care to keep the elastic at the back down towards the bottom of the waistband so it does not catch in the waistband.
12.12Stitch the bottom edge of each Belt Loop down using topstitching thread if you are using it.
The bottom part of the loop should protrude off the waistband, so you are stitching just under the seam where the waistband is attached.
Make sure to stitch carefully (flattening the fabric first if needed) and go back and forwards a few times to hold it. Use your hand crank if needed as you go over the thickest parts of the fabric to avoid needle breakage.
NOTE – With some fabrics, the folded over Belt Loop will be too thick to pin. Use clappers or a hammer gently with fabric over to protect your jeans to flatten the belt loop. Alternatively press it with steam so it stays flat without pinning.
12.13Close the zipper or faux zipper and mark using a pin, tailors chalk or invisible fabric marker where you want your fastening. Your fastening should be halfway between the top and bottom of the waistband, centered over the section where the two sides of waistband cross over. Mark this now.
If you are doing a popper/snap apply this now using manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 12.14.
If you are using a button & buttonhole, stitch this horizontally along the waistband in the position you marked.
TIP – Some topstitching threads are too thick for buttonholes. If you have difficulty, do not use topstitching thread for the buttonhole. Instead use a matching regular thread. Practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your topstitching thread gives you difficulty.
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth over to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching your buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slice in much more smoothly.
TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change your needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. You are right near the end of the garment now so it may have blunted, or even slightly bent during sewing. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.
12.14Mark centrally under the buttonhole where your button needs to go.
If you are using a jeans-style button, apply your button using manufacturers’ instructions. If you are using a regular style button, stitch this on now.
If you are doing snaps, there will be a male part and a female part which snap together. Work out which part you want on top. Apply these as marked to where the buttonholes are marked on the pattern pieces. Apply the parts that go on the bottom to where the buttons are marked on the pattern pieces.
TIP – If you are using medium or heavy weight fabric, use an awl or sharp pointed object to carefully pierce the fabric first. This will make a small hole and will make it much easier to insert the shank of the button. Make your hole as small as possible. If you make too large a hole, the button will move around.
TIP – If you are using hammer on buttons or snaps, try applying a spare set to practice first. If you are using a hammer to apply them, also make sure to protect the button with a cloth. If you have one, a mallet is a better tool as it is softer and less likely to damage the button. Many suppliers provide a set of tools for applying metal or hammer on buttons/snaps. If they do not, placing your button face down on a wooden spoon can provide a sturdy but slightly rounded surface which will protect the button.
12.15If you are not doing optional rivets, skip to step 13.
If you are doing optional rivets, add two rivets to each front pocket using the manufacturer’s instructions. These go so that edge of each rivet is approximately ⅛ inch from the seam line in each corner of the pocket.
13 . Adjustable Elastic Waistband Option13.0SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, follow the same steps as below, except for steps 13.3, serge instead of stitching. Then skip to step 14.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
13.1Pick which of your Waistband pieces you’d like to be the lining of your waistband.
On your waistband lining, mark a vertical line on each front waistband piece 1/2” in from the waistband side seams using tailor’s chalk or a disappearing fabric marker.
Stitch a test buttonhole onto a scrap of fabric to check the width. The buttonhole should be wide enough to fit the buttonhole elastic, but not so wide that it protrudes into the ⅝ inch seam allowance at the top and bottom of the Waistband.
Stitch one vertical buttonhole over the marking on each side. It should be centered vertically on the waistband.
When the jeans are assembled, the buttonhole should go nearly the width of the waistband, but not into the seam allowance.
TIP – If you are using a lighter weight lining fabric, iron a small piece (approximately 1 by 1-inch square) of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the waistband lining behind where each buttonhole will go. This is to reinforce the fabric and avoid putting stress on the fabric when pulling the elastic to adjust for the child’s waist.
TIP – I have an automatic buttonhole option on my sewing machine, and I find that if I use a ¾ inch button as a guide, it ends up the right length between the seam allowances to fit the ¾ inch buttonhole elastic. If you have this feature, test on a scrap of fabric first to check the buttonhole is the correct size.
13.2If you have already attached them, flip the optional Belt Loops up and out of the way.
Fold the bottom of the exterior waistband piece (not the lining you just put the buttonholes in) towards the wrong side by ½ inch and press.
13.3If you did the Belt Loops, flip them back down.
Place the waistband pieces with the right sides together and pin. Stitch up the short edge, along the long edge that is not folded and down the other short edge using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
13.4Clip the corners to prevent bulk and allow you to get crisp corners.
13.5Turn the waistband right side out and press.
13.6Place the right side of the waistband lining on the inside of the jeans and pin. Stitch using a ⅝ inch seam allowance.
13.7Turn the waistband right side out and pin.
If you have attached them, fold the top of the Belt Loops down onto the waistband, but do not catch the bottom of the Belt Loops in your pinning.
Make sure the folded edge of the waistband covers the stitching.
NOTE – With some fabrics, the folded over Belt Loop will be too thick to pin. Use clappers or a hammer gently with fabric over to protect your jeans to flatten the belt loop. Alternatively press it with steam so it stays flat without pinning.
13.8Topstitch all the way around the waistband.
Make sure as you are stitching that you do catch the top folded edge of the Belt Loop, but not the bottom edge.
13.9If you attached your belt loops in step 11 – stitch the bottom edge of each Belt Loop down using topstitching thread if you are using it.
If you did not attach your Belt Loops in step 11 – stitch the top and bottom edge of each Belt Loop down using topstitching thread if you are using it.
The bottom part of the loop should protrude off the waistband, so you are stitching just under the seam where the waistband is attached.
Make sure to stitch carefully (flattening the fabric first if needed) and go back and forwards a few times to hold it. Use your hand crank if needed as you go over the thickest parts of the fabric to avoid needle breakage.
13.10Close the zipper or faux zipper and mark using a pin, tailors chalk or invisible fabric marker where you want your fastening. Your fastening should be halfway between the top and bottom of the waistband, centered over the section where the two sides of waistband cross over. Mark this now.
If you are doing a popper/snap apply this now using manufacturer’s instructions. Skip to step 13.12.
If you are using a button & buttonhole, stitch this horizontally along the waistband in the position you marked.
TIP – Some topstitching threads are too thick for buttonholes. If you have difficulty, do not use topstitching thread for the buttonhole. Instead use a matching regular thread.
TIP – Practice your buttonholes on a scrap of your fabric first. Buttonholes on thicker fabric and/or denim can require you to adjust your tension slightly. It’s much better to find this out on a practice run first!
TIP – If you are using topstitching thread, practice first as you may need to adjust your stitch length to stop the thread bunching up. Sewing slowly can help this stitch more neatly too. Alternatively, switch to a color matched, or contrasting regular thread if your topstitching thread gives you difficulty.
TIP – For heavy fabrics and medium weight denim, give your fabric a light bang with a mallet or hammer (with pressing cloth over to protect the fabric) to break the fibers down before stitching your buttonholes. It’ll make the needle slice in much more smoothly.
TIP – If you have any other difficulty, change your needle to a fresh denim-weight needle. You are right near the end of the garment now so it may have blunted, or even slightly bent during sewing. A fresh, straight, sharp needle can make all the difference.
13.11Mark centrally under the buttonhole where your button needs to go.
If you are using a jeans-style button, apply your button using manufacturers’ instructions. If you are using a regular style button, stitch this on now.
If you are doing snaps, there will be a male part and a female part which join together. Work out which part you want on top. Apply these as marked to where the buttonholes are marked on the pattern pieces. Apply the parts that go on the bottom to where the buttons are marked on the pattern pieces.
TIP – If you are using medium or heavy weight fabric, use an awl or sharp pointed object to carefully pierce the fabric first. This will make a small hole and will make it much easier to insert the shank of the button. Make your hole as small as possible. If you make too large a hole, the button will move around.
TIP – If you are using hammer on buttons or snaps, try applying a spare set to practice first. If you are using a hammer to apply them, also make sure to protect the button with a cloth. If you have one, a mallet is a better tool as it is softer and less likely to damage the button. Many suppliers provide a set of tools for applying metal or hammer on buttons/snaps. If they do not, placing your button face down on a wooden spoon can provide a sturdy but slightly rounded surface which will protect the button.
13.12Stitch a button at the marking on each side of the waistband lining, ½ inch past where the buttonhole is onto the Front Waistband.
13.13Measure between the buttonholes on your waistband, add 2 inches and cut the buttonhole elastic to length.
13.14Pin one end of your buttonhole elastic to the garment (it doesn’t matter where. This is just to stop it from slipping into the waistband as you thread the elastic in).
Pin a safety pin to the other end of your elastic, and thread it into the waistband. Thread it all the way through until it comes out the other end.
13.15Center your elastic and stretch out your waistband so the elastic is loose inside the jeans.
NOTE – You can move the elastic so it’s tighter or looser whenever you like, meaning it is adjustable as your child grows.
NOTE – Try on the jeans now if possible. Adjust the elastic to fit.
13.16Fold each end of the elastic under ½ inch.
Pull the elastic 1 inch past the button and pin the folded edge to the waistband.
Slip the button into the nearest buttonhole to stop the elastic slipping back into the waistband.
13.17Stitch the folded edge of the elastic to the waistband.
NOTE – If you do not want this stitching visible in the finished garment, either hand sew this to the inside of the waistband only or use a bobbin thread that is the same color as the outside of your jeans.
FIT CHECK – Try the jeans on if possible and adjust the elastic to fit by tightening it and slipping the buttonhole elastic onto the button at the most comfortable point. Adjust from both sides so that you don’t get too large a loop of elastic on one side. As your child grows, loosen the elastic and button as required.
14 . Hem14.0FIT CHECK – Try the jeans on and check the length. Adjust as needed, allowing for a 1-inch hem. This step is the same for either length option.
ROLLED CUFF HEM – If you would prefer a rolled cuff hem, follow the steps below but fold the hem towards the right side for each step. Then stitch at the side seams to secure.
SERGER / OVERLOCKER OPTION – If you are using a serger, serge the hem ½ inch, fold to the wrong side ½ inch, press and topstitch in place.
REGULAR SEWING MACHINE OPTION – Follow below.
14.1Fold the bottom hem ½ inch to the wrong side and press.
14.2Fold another ½ inch, press and pin.
14.3Topstitch close to the folded edge.
Repeat steps 14.1 to 14.3 for the other leg.
- + Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Finishing Notes and Congratulations
Congratulations, your Joey Jeans are done. Enjoy!
We would love to hear how you got on and see photos of your finished project!
Join us at our Facebook Group, tag us on Instagram, or use the hashtag #rpjoeyjeans.
Thank you for using a Rebecca Page pattern.
© Copyright 2021
All Rights Reserved
Sales + Licencing InformationProject OverviewJoey Jeans
Difficulty Level = Intermediate
A classic style jean with a faux fly or zipper fly option, and an adjustable or a regular elastic waistband, creating the perfect fit jeans. Personalize the optional back pockets with embroidery and add the optional coin pocket for little treasures to be stored. Sew the shorts option for those wonderfully warmer days.
SizingSize Range
12mo - 12yrs
Size Chart
This pattern is drafted to the sizes listed below. If your child is between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust the pattern to remove the extra width/height to achieve the intended fit.
Height Chest Waist Hips Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM Inches CM 12 – 18 mos 30.0 76.0 19.0 48.0 18.5 47.0 19.7 50.0 18 – 24 mos 32.0 81.0 20.0 51.0 19.5 49.5 20.7 53.0 2 – 3 yrs 36.0 91.0 22.0 56.0 21.0 53.0 22.5 57.0 3 – 4 yrs 41.5 105.0 23.0 58.0 22.0 56.0 24.0 61.0 5 – 6 yrs 47.0 119.0 25.0 63.5 23.0 58.0 26.0 66.0 7 – 8 yrs 51.0 129.5 27.0 69.0 24.0 61.0 28.0 71.0 9 – 10 yrs 54.0 137.0 28.0 71.0 25.0 63.5 31.0 79.0 11 – 12 yrs 57.0 144.5 30.0 76.0 26.0 66.0 33.0 84.0 Finished Measurements (Inches)
Waist Hip Calf Thigh Front rise (incl. waistband) Back rise (incl. waistband) Shorts inseam Pants inseam Hem 12 – 18 mos 20.5 22.2 9.5 14.2 4.5 8.3 2.1 15.0 9.0 18 – 24 mos 21.5 23.0 10.1 14.6 4.7 8.5 2.1 16.0 9.5 2 – 3 yrs 23.0 23.7 10.6 15.0 5.3 8.7 3.1 16.0 10.0 3 – 4 yrs 24.0 25.0 11.2 16.1 5.5 9.0 3.1 17.0 10.5 5 – 6 yrs 25.0 27.2 11.7 17.2 5.7 9.5 3.1 19.5 11.0 7 – 8 yrs 26.0 30.0 12.5 18.3 6.2 9.6 3.1 22.0 11.5 9 – 10 yrs 27.0 32.1 13.0 20.0 6.5 10.0 3.1 25.0 12.0 11 – 12 yrs 28.0 35.0 13.6 22.5 7.0 10.5 3.1 28.3 12.5 Materials and Tools- The jeans are designed with the main fabric as denim in mind. As they are loose fitting, they will work with denim with stretch (10-20%) or without, and any medium/heavy weight woven fabric that has a slight stretch or without stretch.
- Great options are denim, stretch denim, bull denim, low-pile corduroy, cotton canvas, twill, or even an old pair of jeans to upcycle.
- There are many weights of denim you can get. These are usually referred to in fabric listings in ounces. So, for example a “14 oz. denim” means a yard of the fabric will weight 14 ounces. The lower the number, the thinner and more pliable the fabric will be. The higher the number, the heaver and thicker it will be. This pattern is suitable for 5 oz. to 14 oz. denims. Do not use above a 14oz. weight fabric or you will find it does not bend sufficiently to manipulate the seams, or to be comfortable in the end garment.
- If you are using stretch woven fabrics, the stretch can run down the selvedge, rather than across. If you find your stretch is running down the selvedge, you will need to turn your pattern to accommodate for this change. Double check to make sure you cut your patterns with the stretch going from hip to hip, and not waist to ankle.
- Fabric choice for this tutorial will make all the difference in how easy and how quick a sew it will be.
- The lighter weight the fabric, the easier you will find it to manipulate and sew.
- The heavier the fabric, the more labor intensive the sew will be. Heavier fabric is generally thicker and harder to manipulate so it will take longer to press and pin. You also need to sew slower in order to not break your needles.
- For an advanced beginner or intermediate sewer, I would recommend any medium weight woven or denim (5-10 oz).
- I would only recommend heavier weight fabrics & denims (e.g. a tradition jean-weight denim such as a 12-14 oz) for more advanced sewers.
- Denim fabric is notorious for shrinking. Darker colors will also stain your fingers and sewing machines as the dye warms up while being handled. Please pre-wash your fabric first (on its own) and dry before using. It can also mark easily in the wash so do not leave it sitting in your washing machine or dryer after washing, hang or fold as soon as you are able.
- A knit stretch fabric (e.g. a fabric with a high percentage of stretch) is not suitable. The pattern is designed for woven fabrics only with a slight stretch.
Lining fabric
You will also need a lining fabric for the Pocket Bags. Optionally you could also do the inside of the waistband in a lining fabric. Any medium weight woven fabric with no stretch will be suitable for this. Examples are cotton, poly cotton, quilting cotton.
Fabric Requirements 45 inches/115 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
Pants
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.75
0.25
18 mos – 3 yrs
0.75
0.50
0.75
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.50
1.00
0.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.00
0.50
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.25
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
1.25
0.50
Fabric Requirements 60 inches/150 cm wide (in YARDS)
Shorts
Pants
Main
Lining
Main
Lining
12 – 18 mos
0.50
0.25
0.75
0.25
18 mos – 3 yrs
0.75
0.50
0.75
0.50
3 – 4 yrs
0.75
0.50
1.00
0.50
5 – 8 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.00
0.50
9 – 10 yrs
1.00
0.50
1.25
0.50
11 – 12 yrs
1.25
0.50
1.25
0.50
* If you are using a narrower fabric, a directional print, or a fabric with nap you may need more.
** Make sure to wash, dry, and press all fabrics before cutting out in case they shrink.You will also need:
- Optional 1x Fastening approximately ⅝ – 1 inch wide. You could use a traditional jeans style button, a regular button, or a snap. If using snaps, go for metal or heavy-duty snaps.
- Optional mid weight interfacing – ¼ yard will be more than sufficient for all sizes. You only need interfacing if you are using denim or fabric which is not quite heavy. Heavier weight fabrics will be ok without interfacing. A fabric such as a mid-weight linen will need interfacing. If you are using a stretch fabric, we recommend using a stretch interfacing.
- Optional ⅜ inch wide Jeans Rivets – 8x for the corners of each of the front and back pockets. Optionally you can add another 2 for the coin pocket.
- Optional ½ inch wide Single Fold Bias Tape – This can optionally be used to finish the fly area (½ yard sufficient for all sizes) and the crotch seam (2 yards sufficient for all sizes).
- Optional 1 inch wide plain/buttonhole elastic – Approximately ½ yard will be sufficient for all sizes.
- Optional 2x ½ inch Buttons – If using buttonhole elastic, you will need a button on each side.
- Optional 1x zipper – you can use any zipper but a ‘chunky’ or ‘jeans’ zip will be more authentically jeans-like. You will only need a 3-inch 2-8yrs, and a 5 inch for sizes 9-12 yrs. We recommend doing a faux fly for sizes 12-24mos.
- Thread to match. You may want to also use specialty topstitching thread. This is usually a heavier weight and you may need more than you are used to as there is generally less on a spool. For 12-24 months you should only need 1 spool. For 2-12 years, you will need 2 spools.
Tools needed are:
- Sewing machine, scissors, tape measure, buttonhole presser foot and pins or clips.
- Optional – A hammer or mallet may also be helpful for attaching your buttons.
- If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you will also need a specialty needle (either a ‘denim’ needle or a heavy-duty needle such as the sizing ‘70/10 – 110/18’). Make sure you have several available. There is a lot of topstitching in this tutorial and if you are using denim or a thicker fabric, it will blunt and be placed under pressure over the course of the sew. Sewing slowly over bulky sections will help reduce this, however, switching to a fresh needle part way through the sew can help make the sewing easier.
- If you are using heavy or denim fabric, you may also find using a ‘clapper’ helps. A tailor’s clapper is a wooden tool which absorbs moisture from seams after pressing. It helps give a crisp edge and flattens seams too. When working with heavy fabrics such as traditional denim, this can help avoid broken needles and make sewing easier and more accurate.